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BLADE Staff

4th Great Smoky Mountain Bladesmithing Symposium – Clyde, NC

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4th Great Smoky Mountain Bladesmithing Symposium

 
March 4, 5, and 6, 2011

Offered by the American Bladesmith Society, Inc.
Hosted by Haywood Community College

Location:
Haywood Community College
185 Freelander Drive
Clyde, North Carolina

For more information Contact:
Laura Simmons, HCC at  (828)565-4244
or Bill Wiggins, ABS at (828) 226-2551 or Email Bill

Registration:
$65 Registration fee can be paid in “Event Registration” in the ABS Store or contact Cindy Sheely, ABS Store Manager at (419) 832-0400 or Email Cindy

Event Flyer and Mail in Registration Form:
Click to download – Smoky Mountain Flyer and Registration Form

Featured Demonstrators:

Joseph Keeslar – Blade Forging, Grinding & Heat Treament
James Rodebaugh – Damascus Steel
—————————-
Demonstrators:

Greg Neely – Fit & Finish & ABS Knife Judging
Jason Knight – Handles & Guards
Daniel Warren – Slip Joint Folders
Butch Sheely – Forging Tomahawks
BR Hughes – ABS Knife Judging
Carolyn Hughes – Promotion and Advertising
James Batson – Making Antique Bowies
Ronnie Boydston & Demonstrators – Hands-on blade forging
Col. Tim Ryan – Auctioneer

Event Schedule:

Thursday, March 3 ………………..3 to 6pm Check in and Registration

………………..6:30 pm Demonstrators Dinner (All invited)

Friday, March 4 ………………..8AM to 5pm Blade Forging & Demonstrations
………………..7 to 9pm *Battle of the Bladesmiths*

Saturday, March 5 …………………8am to 12am Blade Forging & Demonstrations
………………..1 to 3pm Knife Show (Free to the public)

………………..3 to 5pm Auction (bring items for auction)

………………..5 to 7pm BBQ Dinner (pay at site)

………………..7 to 9pm Cutting Demonstration

Sunday, March 6 ………………..8 to 12am Blade Forging & Demonstrations

Bill Moran and the Forged Blade

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Bill Moran, American Bladesmith Society Founder and Master Smith, demonstrates how to forge a blade in his shop in Maryland and tells how he began his career…

How To Make A Knife Handle

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In this video, the knifemaker will show how to make a wooden knife handle. To read various techniques for how to stabilize it once it’s on the knife, click here.

Benchmade Partners with Three New Custom Knife Designers

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From Benchmade

 

Benchmade Knife Company is proud to announce new partnerships with three custom designers: Butch Ball, Paul W. Poehlmann, and Bill Harsey, Jr. Their world-class custom designs and innovative ideas will allow Benchmade to discover the newest locking mechanisms, modern materials, and custom finishing techniques.

 13450

Butch Ball grew up with a fascination of knives and began building his own knives in a machine shop in Florida. In 2001, he built his own shop in Virginia, where he currently resides.

 

The first Benchmade-Ball collaboration knife will be the new Harley-Davidson® 13450 T-Rod™.  This knife is a push button, two-position knife that can be either a fixed blade or a dagger. Featuring a modified clip point 440C stainless steel blade and aluminum handles, this knife also includes a black leather sheath. MSRP $120.

 

Paul W. Poehlmann is a skilled custom knife maker and designer of mechanical solutions. He draws on an engineering career in the aeronautical industry where he designed escape system hardware and survival equipment. Poehlmann’s passion for precision has resulted in some of the smoothest and safest folding knives ever made. He invented the Paul® axial locking mechanism and holds over forty utility patents and two design patents.

A3 240

The new Axial™ series of knives will be released within the Benchmade product line. These knives all feature the Paul® locking mechanism and are available in a variety of sizes and handle materials, including G10, Carbon Fiber, Cocobolo and Ivory Micarta.3800 NTK

Finally, Oregonian Bill Harsey Jr. is an award-winning knife maker and designer. Known for his unique ergonomic designs, he has crafted many one-of-a-kind folding and fixed blade knives that have become the preferred edged tools of several Special Forces units.

 

The 3800 NTK™ is the new Benchmade-Harsey collaboration featuring a double action locking liner automatic mechanism, D2 tool blade steel and Nylon handle with textured Kraton®.

 

“I am excited to add three very talented custom designers to the Benchmade team,” says Les de Asis, Founder and CEO of Benchmade Knife Company. “These additions will help Benchmade continue to create the most innovative and functional designs in the industry.”

 

All of these new knives will be officially released in January at the SHOT Show in Las Vegas, NV.

 

March BLADE on Most Newsstands NOW!

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The March 2011 BLADE® is on most newsstands now. Get the latest on what’s needed in the knife industry in terms of new knife tests; a story on the late, great John Nelson Cooper; a profile of bladesmith Bill Burke; the latest factory tactical fixed blades; a test of bladesmith Erik Fritz’s utility knife; four makers to watch in 2011; a recap of 2010’s sharpest knife happenings; how to carve; a review of Dr. Jim Lucie’s new book, Scagel Handmade; a story on Knife Showcase; a review of the Knifemakers’ Guild Show; the knives our military is using in Afghanistan; and much more.

 

There is also editorial mention of knives by Mantis Knives, the Mantis “Principal” being the cover knife; William Henry Studio; Steve Koster; Spyderco; Michael Kinker; Tom Mayo; Leatherman; Gerber; Simonich Knives; Meyerco; a TOPS/Buck collaboration; Heckler & Koch; United Cutlery; Zero Tolerance; Ka-Bar/Becker Knife & Tool; Rick Marchand; Tommy Ploppert; David Sloan; Sniper Bladeworks; Joe Szilaski; William Scagel; Todd Begg; Kershaw; Ontario; Brian Tighe; David Winston; Kyle Royer; Boker USA; Jim Grizzard; John Pawlowski; Cold Steel; Jeff Harkins; Blade-Tech; Colten Tippets; Kevin Evans; John Barker; Joel Worley; Steve Davis; Pohan Leu; James Scroggs; Dale Whitesell; Tom Overeynder; Steve Hoel; Rob Hudson; Bill Johnson; Kevin Hoffman; Stephen Mackrill; Jason Rabuck; Al Mar Knives; Dan Winkler; SOG Specialty Knives & Tools; Burt Foster; Woody Woodcock; Bill Amoureux; Alan Warren; and Warren Osborne.

 

fighter and kitchen

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Large kitchen knife and a large, thick fighter

Best method to stabilize wood handles?

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This helpful conversation is excerpted from a thread on a previous version of blademag.com. It’s posted here for reference.

Bear Goode:

What is your preferd method of stabilizing wood for handle’s & or sheaths?

Dallas Dreger:

2 methods I use,,,After completeing the knife and the handle is sanded to the point that I am stisfied,,,I sink it into a can of mixed boiled linseed oil and turpintine,,,50/50 mix for a few day. Thes after removing,,polish off the till dry,,,wait another day for it to dry and you will find there is a light coat of oil again that is sticky,,polish this off and a light buff wiht a clean rag and it sould be stbilized for a long time. This doesnt make a real shiney finish but it does harden a fair ammount and still has a natural wood feel to it. This is the meathod I like for everyday working knnives.  2 when the knife is allmost finished and rthe handle is sanded to a 220 grit,,sink into a jar or can of minwax wood hardener for a few days. ,,remove and wipe clean.  A day later you can sand to a 400 grit or higher. This will take more of a shine when you polish on a buffing wheel but not as good as a vacume stabilized handles. I like the first method best but this does make a little bit harder handle if thats what you are looking for. I dont care for vacume stablized handle slabs s I have had a few in teh past cack or chip on me but I do realize some folks like that mirror shine to the complete knife. For a hard use working knife use the first method,,,for a lighter duty knife where a light shine is desired,,,use method 2 and for teh high shine,,,send your handle material way to become professionly stabalized. unless you make a proper stabilizing setup

Bear Goode:

My  preferred method is using minwax wood hardner.On plain slabs(this will darken the wood,about as much as putting a bit of spit on the wood)I will put slabs in the wood hardener.A shallow dish works fine. I then use a foodsaver to vacume solution  into the wood. I like to leave the wood under vacume for a couple of hours then, revacume the whole shabang once more & leave overnight. After removing the vacume bag the next day,The wood hardner will dry in about 2 hours. I like to give it 24 hours to dry to be on the safe side.The food saver will not have enough vacume pressure to do wood blocks,only handle slabs. I will on thicker sections (wood blocks)|work the wood to about the almost finished size then run it through the vacume of the foodsaver. then after all is done I will give a last rubbed coat of the hardner before final sanding & buffing. I have also used this process with Watco danish oil with good success.

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