The author tries out the Lansky Folding Tapered Diamond Rod Sharpener.

Over the years I’ve written a number of articles on sharpening. I have also taught countless sharpening classes covering everything from knives, saws to Forstner bits. Sometimes you need a special tool to get the job done. In the case of serrated edges, you need a dedicated sharpening tool. This time it’s the Folding Tapered Diamond Rod by Lansky. I will cover the basics of sharpening a serrated blade as well.

The two serrated blades I carry most is the one on my Leatherman Wave and my Spyderco Police. I am a property maintenance man and the Wave is like my right arm. The Police sends chills down the spines of people when I open it. Let’s get to sharpening them.

Keep It Simple

First off, there are those who would like to complicate sharpening by making it seem more than it is. At its core, sharpening is simply polishing two surfaces that meet at an edge. In the case of a serrated blade, the edge has a series of gullets (channels) and teeth. The different contours on a serrated edge require a sharpening tool that can accommodate such a surface.

Another feature of serrated edges is that a number of them are formed with a chisel-style grind. By chisel-style grind, I mean the secondary bevel to the edge is on one side only. Since serration patterns vary, you need a sharpener that will accommodate different sizes of teeth and gullets. A common form is the use of a cone. A cone-shaped sharpener should match the size of a serration somewhere along the cone.

Sharp Specs

Lansky has taken a tapered diamond impregnated rod and created a foldable handle that acts like a case for the rod. The style is not uncommon except Lansky takes the ergonomics a step further by making the injection-molded handle contoured for a more solid grip.

The diamond coating is electrostatic-plated to the rod, which is better than using an epoxy as some others do. Lansky uses a 600-grit coating. It is not an aggressive grit, though on the other hand you don’t want a grit that is too aggressive for serrations. If you get too aggressive of a grit, then a mistake can ruin the blade. The one issue I find with the Lansky is the tip of the cone is a bit large for some serrations. Other than that, I plan to get a lot of work out of this sharpener for years to come.

The Method

First, brace the blade you are sharpening against a stable surface. Position the blade’s secondary bevels up. I tend to prefer the dynamic style of sharpening in these cases, so I move the sharpener, not the blade. Match the angle of the secondary bevel when placing the rod in the serration.

Position the rod a bit before the diameter of the cone that matches the serration being worked on. You don’t want to start your sharpening stroke at the beginning of the cone as that will change the shape of the gullet. The intent is to remove as little material as necessary. If you start sharpening close to the beginning of the cone, you will cut into the gullet. Keep close to the diameter of the gullet and take short passes.

When finished, I check all the teeth to make sure they are still pointed. Then I briefly strop the opposite side of the blade with a compound-loaded leather strop. Just a couple of passes will remove the burr. Lansky lays out the static method in the directions, which means you move the blade along the rod. Try both methods and see which one works best for you. Everyone has their own preference. In the end it is more important to get good results.

Parting Cuts

Serrations shine when it comes to cutting fibrous materials such as cord, rope and nylon straps. At my shooting range, when I score a bunch of cardboard for backers, I usually use my serrated knife to cut the cardboard down to size.

It is best to maintain serrated edges. With a plain edge you can let it go then sit down with it and bring it back to life easy enough. Serrated edges I find it best to stay on top of and regularly give them some upkeep. Wearing down the tips off the teeth and blowing out the gullets just makes more work and creates more chance you will mess up the serrations.

If you don’t own a good quality serrated knife because you are concerned about sharpening it, then buy a cheap one and practice your technique. Lastly, if you own just one serrated knife outside your kitchen bread knife, make it the rescue knife in your car.

Lansky Folding Tapered Diamond Rod Sharpener
Abrasive: Diamond-coated rod
Rod length: 3.5”
Rod thickness: 1/16” at tip, ¼” at base
Grit: 600
Handle: Nylon
Sharp stuff: Sharpens serrated blades, fishhooks, gut hooks and more; the rod folds into the handle for protection and ease of carry
Weight: .2 oz.
Closed length: 5”
Open Length: 9”
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $19.95

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