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How To Use A Whetstone

Knowing How To Use A Whetstone, Or Sharpening Stone, Can Restore A Dull Blade And Should Be Part Of Regular Upkeep For Your Knives.

There are many inexpensive ways to sharpen your knives at home, but nothing feels the same as sharpening your knives on a whetstone. Used for centuries around the world to keep an edge on everything from swords to kitchen knives, the whetstone is an intimate, precise way to maintain your knife’s edge and bring it back to life.

The “whet” in whetstone has nothing to do with being wet or any type of moisture. It comes from the Old English term “hwettan” which means “to whet or sharpen.” Coincidentally, most whetstones do need some type of moisture for top performance. In all cases, this means water or oil. However, a majority of stones you’ll find in stores or online–particularly for kitchen use–will be waterstones.

Oil Stone Vs Waterstone

Honestly, in some cases, there is no difference.

The preference of lubrication–water or oil–is left up to the user. Both will do the same job, swarfing the surface of the stone so it does a better job sharpening.

However, there are other cases where one or the other must be used with a particular stone. Natural sharpening stones, for instance, mostly use water. Rub them down with oil and you’ll render them useless.

Manufacturers will spell out whether your particular whetstone is water, oil or both.

The main difference between whetstones that use oil and whetstones that use water is that waterstones are softer so the old abrasive material breaks off faster than an oil stone. This means you’re sharpening on fresh stone material more consistently.

Waterstones are also less messy and easier to clean vs oil stones, which adds another point in the bucket for waterstones. Waterstones also come in more grit varieties than oil stones.

Oil stones, especially those made of novaculite, are a traditional sharpening stone, and many are quarried in America, specifically in Arkansas.

Differences In Grits

You’ll see stones of all types come in a variety of grits. The lower the number, the more coarse the grit. The more coarse the grit, the more material gets removed with each pass of the knife.

For at-home sharpening, grits in the range of 1,000-8,000 should be more than enough. However there are stones that come as coarse as 120 and as fine as 30,000. Consider these specialists and stick to the common grits for most jobs.

Whetstone Accessories

While there are many gizmos and accessories out there to help with your whetstone sharpening, there are two that stand above the rest. You can see them in the photo at the top of this article.

The first is the stand for your whetstone. This should come with the stone when you purchase it. You do not want to lay your stone directly onto your table or countertop. It can slide, and mixing sliding things with sharp knives is a recipe for losing a finger.

The second is that little thing to the right of the stone. It looks like a chip clip, but it’s actually an angle guide. Some will clip onto the top edge of your knife while others might need to be strapped to the stone itself. Either way, the angle guide will help set your sharpening angle and allow you to maximize each pass of the blade across the stone.

I’ve used a 1000/6000 waterstone for years to keep my kitchen knives sharp. You can find plenty of quality 1000/6000 whetstones online for under $40. But having the stone doesn’t account for much if you don’t know how to use it. I pulled out my sharpening set up to help give you a step-by-step breakdown of how to sharpen your knives with a whetstone.

Step 1: Get Your Equipment

Things I use to sharpen on a whetstone
Things I use to sharpen on a whetstone

Ready to start sharpening? Hold up a minute. You’ll need more than a whetstone and your knife.

In addition to the obvious tools for the task, I start with a whetstone stand, a container of water and a spoon (you heard right).

There are special notes on a couple of these items.

The water container is to prep the whetstone and should have some specific attributes. I want a deep container so the stone can sit in it and fully soak. These babies are thirsty, so you can’t just dab water on one and expect it to work.

Here I’m using a baking dish, but a plastic tub or kitchen sink work equally as well.

The spoon … no, you’re not taste testing your knife’s edge. It’s there to literally spoonfeed the stone more water during sharpening to clear off the shavings.

Step 2: Soak The Whetstone

Soaking the whetstone
Soaking the whetstone

Here’s the speedbump of the process.

As mentioned, whetstones require a good soaking before use. This isn’t a splash-and-go process.

Plan to let your stone sit fully submerged for a good 10 to 20 minutes before it’s primed for use. There’s a simple way to tell it’s good to go.

Plunge that baby into water and you’ll see it bubble like an aquarium aerator. Quite literally, this is the stone drinking up water in its microscopic pores and displacing air in the process.

As time goes on, fewer and fewer bubbles pop out of the whetstone (see the above picture). When it’s none or next to none, you’re good to go.

Step 3: Secure The Stone

OK, this sounds obvious. But it must be said–you must secure your wetstone before sharpening.

Not only does this stave off a tongue lashing from your significant other, ensuring you don’t scratch up the counter or dinner table. It also keeps your digits from getting cut up.

In most cases, you’ll have a holder that, well.. holds the stone. If you don’t, never fear, a towel or rag makes a dandy impromptu stone holder.

Whatever the case may be, make certain your stone isn’t going anywhere before you actually begin sharpening.

Step 4: Determining The Sharpening Angle

Rubber, you’re almost ready to meet the road!

Before you actually start scraping away precious material to create a fresh sharp edge, you need to determine exactly what angle to sharpen at.

Some knives require a somewhat uncommon angle to sharpen. This is spelled out in the owner’s instructions if this is the case. Lose those, check the company’s website, these vital specs are usually there.

However, in most cases–a vast majority–20 to 25 degrees is the best angle to achieve a good cutting edge. And you don’t even need a protractor to determine this pitch.

Think of it this way, the edge pointing straight down at the stone is at 90 degrees. Tilt the blade halfway down, now the blade is at roughly 45 degrees. Tilt the knife halfway again and, there you are about 22.5 degrees–a sweet spot for a good edge.

Or you can go the easy route and use an angle guide, mentioned earlier in the article.

Step 5: Course Sharpening

Start with the lower grit, which in this case is 1,000. It takes off more material and gets the edge almost all of the way back to razor sharpness.

Usually, I do 10 passes on each side of the blade, but I fully sharpened my knives a few weeks ago and just did two here as a demonstration.

Keep the blade angled between 20-25 degrees to get the best possible results.

Step 4: Turn The Stone Over & Sharpen With The Finer Grit

I finish with the fine grit, 6,000 on my whetstone.

You’ll notice each time I pass there’s some new metal shavings on the stone. That’s the swarf. It’s fine for your knives if you leave the swarf on the stone as you sharpen, but you can also wash it away with some extra water.

Again, like the coarse grit, I usually do 10 passes on each side of the knife.

Step 5: Wash Off Your Knives & Clean Up

Once you’re done sharpening you should rinse your blades and wipe them dry with a towel. Once your knives are accounted for, give your water container a thorough cleaning. I used a baking dish, and it’s important to fully clean it so you aren’t ingesting microscopic metal shavings.

For the stone itself, I double check that it’s secure in its holder and leave it out overnight to let the water evaporate out of it. Once it’s completely dry I put it back in its spot in the drawer.

And there you have it, a simple, straightforward guide showing you how to sharpen your knives using a whetstone.

Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.

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2022 Blade Show Custom Knife Award Winners

See Who Took Home Awards For the Best Custom Knives At Blade Show In Atlanta.

An expert panel of judges determined the winner in 17 categories of custom knives that were as diverse as Best Miniature to Best Bowie. Best In Show went to Dionatam Franco.

The largest knife show in the world featured exhibitors and attendees from around the globe showing off the best in all things knives.

Below are this year’s custom knife award winners from this excellent event.

Hugh Bartrug Best In Show & Best Art Knife: Dionatam Franco

Hugh Bartrug Best In Show & Best Art Knife: Dionatam Franco
Best Art Knife: Dionatam Franco. Franco created this intricate dagger accompanied with a handmade stingray sheath. 

Yvon Vachon Best Miniature: Grace Horne

Yvon Vachon Best Miniature: Grace HorneBest Miniature went to Grace Horne for these full-functioning scissors. They were handmade by her with watchmaker tools underneath a microscope.

Best Tactical Folder: Dmitry Sinkevich

Best Tactical Folder: Dmitry SinkevichBest Tactical Folder: Dmitry Sinkevich

Most Innovative Design: Walt Halucha

Most Innovative Design: Walt Halucha for this unique locking mechanism on this folding blade. 


Best Slip Joint: Luke Swenson

Best Slip Joint: Luke SwensonBest Slip Joint: Luke Swenson

Best Handle Design: Fabio Barros

Best Handle Design: Fabio BarrosBest Handle Design & Best New Maker: Fabio Barros

Best Utility Hunter: Ben Pittman

Best Utility Hunter: Ben PittmanBest Utility Hunter: Ben Pittman

Best Fighter: Henning Wilkinson

Best Fighter: Henning WilkinsonBest Fighter: Henning Wilkinson

Best Sword: Vince Evans

Best Sword: Vince EvansBest Sword: Vince Evans

Best Bowie: Tommy Gann

Best Bowie: Tommy Gann
Best Bowie: Tommy Gann

Best Fixed Blade: Vince Evans

Best Fixed Blade: Vince Evans
Best Fixed Blade: Vince Evans

Best Collaboration: Seth Lopez & Leah Aripotch

Best Collaboration: Seth Lopez & Leah AripotchBest Collaboration: Seth Lopez & Leah Aripotch. Lopez forged the knife while Aripotch created the stand.

Best Folder: Javier Vogt

Best Folder: Javier Vogt


Best Damascus: Mike Quesenberry

Best Damascus: Mike QuesenberryBest Damascus: Mike Quesenberry

Best New Maker: Fabio Barros

Best New Maker: Fabio BarrosBest New Maker: Fabio Barros

Best Kitchen Knife: Will Stelter

Best Kitchen Knife: Will StelterBest Kitchen Knife: Will Stelter

Best Of The Rest: Dmitry Sinkevich

Best Of The Rest: Dmitry SinkevichBest Of The Rest: Dmitry Sinkevich. Sinkevich said that the design was inspired by a combination of the ulu knife and watch rotor. 

Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.

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2022 BLADE Show Knife-Of-The-Year® Award Winners

See who took home the hardware at from the BLADE Show Knife-Of-The Year® Awards.

Winners were determined in 11 categories at BLADE show in Atlanta, by an expert pannel of judges. Awards ranged from Knife Of The Year to Best Kitchen Knife and everything in between.

The 2022 Overall Knife of the Year® was the Pro-Tech Malibu Operator. Pro-Tech would go on to win in two other categories. The world’s largest knife show featured attendees and exhibitors from around the world showing off the best and newest in all things knives.

Below are this year’s factory award winners from this tremendous event.

Overall Knife of the Year®: Pro-Tech Malibu Operator

Overall Knife of the Year Pro-Tech Malibu Operator
Pro-Tech Malibu Operator

American-Made Knife Of The Year®: Spyderco Military 2

American-Made Knife Of The Year Spyderco Military 2Spyderco Military 2

Most Innovative American Design: Asheville Steel Warlock

Most Innovative American Design Asheville Steel WarlockAsheville Steel Warlock

Imported Knife Of The Year®: MKM – Maniago Knife Makers Miura

Imported Knife Of The Year MKM – Maniago Knife Makers MiuraMKM – Maniago Knife Makers Miura

Most Innovative Import Design: Civivi Orthrus

Most Innovative Import Design Civivi OrthrusCivivi Orthrus

Accessory Of The Year: Lionsteel Eggie

Accessory Of The Year Lionsteel EggieLionsteel Eggie

Best Buy: Sencut Sachse

Best Buy Sencut SachseSencut Sachse

Investor/Collector Knife Of The Year®: Pro-Tech Ultimate Collection Terzuole ATCF Auto

Investor Collector Knife Of The Year Pro-Tech Ultimate Collection Terzuole ATCF AutoPro-Tech Ultimate Collection Terzuole ATCF Auto

Collaboration Of The Year: Pro-Tech Terzuole ATCF Auto

Collaboration Of The Year Pro-Tech Terzuole ATCF AutoPro-Tech Terzuole ATCF Auto

Manufacturing Quality Award: Heretic Wraith Auto

Manufacturing Quality Award Heretic Wraith AutoHeretic Wraith Auto

Kitchen Knife Of The Year®: Bradford Paring Knife

Kitchen Knife Of The Year Bradford Paring KnifeBradford Paring Knife

Read More

 

Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.

Knifemaking: How To Build A Railroad Spike Jig

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Building A Railroad Spike Jig Takes Time But Is Worth The Effort

Building the Railroad Spike Jig

Forged Knifemaking
This article is an excerpt from Forged: Making A Knife With Traditional Blacksmith Skills available at ShopBlade.com.

Counter-bending begins with the counter-bending jig. These are made by forging a steel bar .75-1 inch square and about five inches long into a “bottom swage” device. This looks something like a cradle. It can be placed into your anvil’s hardy hole or locked in a vise.

You don’t necessarily need to weld the hardy stud on the bottom, just lock it in the vise. A banana would fit nicely into this cradle. File a groove into the top-right edge to “catch” the point. I use railroad spikes to make this jig. As you make more knives you may choose to change that radius depending upon factors between you, your tools, and your steel.

Bending With The Railroad Spike Counter-Bending Jig

Place the counter-bending jig in the hardy hole or vise. Place the blade bar in the forge at the most convenient position for extraction and quick placement on the jig. Heat to orange.  Place the bar on its spine, with the choil and cutting edge looking up and the point at the groove. Keep the bar at the center of the jig.

Note the “air” between the billet and the spike. The blade is almost resting at the bottom of the jig. The next blow will force it completely into the concavity of the railroad spike jig.
Note the “air” between the billet and the spike. The blade is almost resting at the bottom of the jig. The next blow will force it completely into the concavity of the railroad spike jig.

NOTE: Blacksmiths will refer to shaping tools like this railroad spike jig as a swage. Sometimes as a bottom swage. Swages (sometimes called ‘swedges’) are concave in shape. Fullers, on the other hand, which are also shaping tools, are convex.

With the round hammer face strike the bar in the center. This will take one to several heats and hits depending on how hot the bar is and how hard you hit it. Rarely will it take one heat and one hit. Usually it takes many. Do not hit it any more than necessary. We want the entire blade in the concavity of the jig. When it’s there, stop.

NOTE: Remember that straightening blows are much lighter than forging blows. Straightening blows are just hard enough to bring the blade back to straight and flat.

Then, put the blade back into the forge, take a heat, and do the swage business again. Steel, when hot, is extremely malleable (like soft clay) and can be told what shape to take.

You can purchase Paul White’s Forged: Making a Knife With Traditional Blacksmith Skills here.

How To: Forge Beveling & Blade Tipping

Forge Beveling & Blade Tipping Are Necessary Skills For Any Fledgling Knifesmith To Learn. Here’s The Skinny On Both.

 

Forged Knifemaking
This article is an excerpt from Forged: Making A Knife With Traditional Blacksmith Skills available at ShopBlade.com.

TIP: The most important principle in this section is to overlap hammer blows. The right edge of your previous hammer blow becomes the center point of your next hammer blow.

Forge-beveling allows a consistent pushing of the hot steel in all directions at each blow. The physics are consistent, predictable, and reliable. At each strike, the force of the rounding hammerhead pushes the bottom half of the blade and the spine in opposite directions. The tip-to-choil forces are contained for the most part by the blade’s mass.

It’s much like when the smith makes breakfast sausage patties. Imagine pushing the center of that sausage patty down with the heel of your hand (hammer) against the counter (anvil). The patty spreads out in all directions with a dimple in the center, the same as the steel.  With repeated overlapping blows the bevel thins and widens downward as the spine stretches upward. The resulting geometry is a thinning and reshaping of the blade between the cheek line and the cutting edge.  A bevel is forged and formed with your rounding hammer, anvil and blacksmith’s eye.

Once forge-beveling is mastered you can actually form a hollow “grind” by hollow forging (another lesson, another book).

NOTE: Look at a knife with the pommel to the left and the point to the right, cutting edge down and spine up. For reference and description, this is the right side of the blade.

This is the right side (i.e. right-hand side) of the knife blade.
This is the right side (i.e. right-hand side) of the knife blade

Setting the Bevel

The forge-beveling procedure is advanced forging. Beveling with a hammer is a blacksmith secret used by few these days. Learn this method and you will certainly be connected to the smiths of old.

This forge-beveling procedure takes me six heats or more, at minimum; three on each side. Theoretically, one heat per line, three lines per side (explained below in Half, Fourth, Eighth). Make these passes down the bottom half of the blade traveling its full length. Because you might be a beginner it may take many more passes than six.

You may need more heats due to being hammer shy or because of rookie hesitation. You may start and stop frequently due to under-heating, overheating, dropped blades, re-positioning your piece or “Where’s my hammer?”.  All of those are OK. We all do them.

Half, Fourth, Eighth

Let’s go through the forge-beveling principle. First think of cross-section geometry. Develop a visual in your brain of the relative distance from the center point of the hammer face to the bottom one-half of your blade as you travel along its length from ricasso to tip.

Do this by visualizing one-half, one-fourth, and one-eighth. If we were to saw a blade vertically in half and view its cross-section, we would see that its shape is thickest at the top, along its spine. It holds that dimension down to the cheek (about the halfway point) and then dramatically loses thickness as it approaches the cutting edge. This is the bevel. Your bevel. Think halfway from cheek line to cutting edge. This is the 1/2 line.

This traditional way to set this bevel can only be acquired with dozens of latitudinal hammer strikes passing from left to right at those three descending levels: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8. Remember one-half, one-fourth, one-eighth.

Note and maintain a mental image of the three all important forge lines.
Note and maintain a mental image of the three all important forge lines.

NOTE: This 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 business does not mean fractional inches. The fractions refer to the position of your hammer’s center face on the horizontal bar (i.e. halfway, a quarter of the way, and an eighth of the way from the edge to the cheek).

Remember this is a theoretical thing becoming a real thing. The blade is 1-inch wide, and the face of a 2.5-pound rounding hammer is about 1.5 inches. Think exact center of a hammer face on those latitudinal forging lines. 

TIP: See the author setting the bevel on YouTube. Search for: Paul White FORGED.

Try not to strike above the imaginary cheek line that runs about halfway between the spine and edge. Your hammer passes will form the cheek line. The final cheek line usually falls well above the halfway point because maintaining that line exactly in the center is almost impossible with a round hammer face, your billet bouncing around on the anvil, and you’re trying to hit on exact points. However, the primary objective is to maintain the original thickness in the spine (1/8-inch) as far down to that halfway line as possible. 

Blade Tipping

Each pass will require a slight upward tipping of the spine to acquire about a 10° to 12° angle to be set in the bevel as you hammer. It takes a simple inward twisting of the wrist to keep the blade from resting flat on the anvil face. It must be done at each horizontal pass. This smartly places just the right amount of bevel angle. After a few passes, the blade will “find” that angle as you place it down.

After a complete pass from choil to tip on the right side of the blade, flip the piece over, tip to 10° to 12°, place at the top of the anvil, and do the left side. This is the place to use your indexing skills. It takes most smiths some time and practice to fully master this concept. I’ll go over this beveling thing a couple more times. Read this whole section and look at the drawings and photos several times before doing this.

TIP: Sometimes it takes fewer total passes than I indicate in this book. This is due to the individual smith’s power and/or heat control and/or blade position and/or hammer penetration and/or steel composition. There are lots of variables. If your blade is almost straight after fewer than the recommended strikes or passes, back off on the heat and/or reduce the power or reduce the passes. If you place blows beyond what is needed, the blade will curve upward.  Usually, fewer strikes per pass will be necessary as the beveling chore proceeds.  This happens because the smith usually increases his or her power and confidence as time at the anvil is increased. Also, the bevel becomes thinner with repeated heats requiring less steel to be moved.

The forging sequence is as follows. Take a heat. Place the blade at the bottom of the anvil. Tip to 12°. Place overlapping blows down the blade on the right side at the 1/2 line. Take a heat. Flip to the left side of the blade at the top of the anvil. Tip to 12°. Forge down the left side at the 1/2 line at the top of the anvil. Take a heat. Flip to bottom. Tip. Place blows down the right side of the blade at the 1/4 line. Heat.  Flip. Tip, down the left side at the 1/4 line at the top. Take a heat. Flip. Tip and down the 1/8 line on the right side. Heat. Flip. Tip. Then down the left side at the 1/8 line. Your blade should be nearly straight after three or five passes and however many heats as needed.

By hammering in this 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 method you will “set the bevel” of your knife in the traditional way, FORGING! Ninety-three percent of all bladesmiths set their bevels at the grinder.  I have met only a handful of smiths that do this the old way. You’ll be the only blacksmith in the surrounding ten counties that sets the bevel with your three-pound hammer!

Do not strike randomly up and down the blade or space-out (i.e. not overlap) your blows and expect anything good to happen.

BLACKSMITH SECRET: To gauge forging heat have a wooden box close by and away from any direct light. Hold your blade in the box to see the true forging heat. Even when hot the “red” is sometimes difficult to see in a lighted room. However, the red will show in the shade of your box. This means you are above forging heat and will thus avoid potential edge cracks. Remember this is high carbon steel and your working parameters are narrower. Iron can be worked over a greater temperature without damage.  At the end of each forging and before you lose forging heat in your blade use the last few seconds to straighten and align your work. Make all lines right with the world. 

The successful counter-bend is placed at the “bottom” of the anvil with the choil just at the anvil’s corner next to the table. Several hammer blows are placed at the halfway point/line and then the hammer travels down the blade to the smith’s right.
The successful counter-bend is placed at the “bottom” of the anvil with the choil just at the anvil’s corner next to the table. Several hammer blows are placed at the halfway point/line and then the hammer travels down the blade to the smith’s right.

You can buy Forged: Making A Knife With Traditional Blacksmith Skills here

Best Honing Rods: A Complete Buyer’s Guide

Honing Rods. Honing Steel. Sharpening Steel. It Comes In Many Names, But No Matter What You Call It This Tool Is One Of The Most Important And Misunderstood Pieces In The Kitchen.

Whether it’s in your knife block or you saw Gordon Ramsay using it on TV, you’ve probably seen a honing rod. While it’s a ubiquitous piece of kit in the kitchen, it’s a bit of an enigma. Many think that this long steel rod is meant to sharpen your knives, but that’s not the case. Beyond that, contemporary rods are made from materials other than stainless steel like ceramic and diamond-coated steel.

It isn’t known when honing steels were first invented, but there are records from the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire making honing steels in Sheffield, UK as far back as the early 1600’s.

With such a long history of use by knife owners, it’s important to know what a honing rod is, how to use it, and how to find the right one for you.

What Is A Honing Rod?

While many people call it a sharpening rod, a honing rod or steel hones your blade rather than sharpens it. With regular use, your knives will start to lose their edge. Standard wear and tear such as cutting through fibrous meats or knicking the cutting board will eventually bend your knife’s edge at the microscopic level.

By using your honing rod, you fix those small deformations to keep your knife’s edge like new. It’s important to note that you’re not removing material like you do when sharpening on a stone. A honing rod won’t help you if a knife has a totally blunt edge.

The best way to think about it is that your honing steel should be used a few times a week, or even daily, while a proper sharpening of your knives should be done once or twice a year.

Honing Rod Vs. Kitchen Sharpener

Traditional honing steel will help keep your knives sharper longer. Newer honing rods made from ceramic and diamond-coated steel do remove a minimal amount of steel when honing, usually tiny bits hanging onto your blade by a thread. No matter what material rod you use, it is healthier for your knives to use them regularly to maintain the edge for as long as possible.

Popular YouTuber Ethan Chlebowski goes in-depth on honing and how to hone to keep your knives fit for daily use.

Eight Best Honing Rods

Whether they’re made from steel, ceramic, or even coated in diamond, honing rods come in all sizes, materials, and even shapes. These eight stand out from the rest.

Wusthof 9-Inch Honing Steel

Wusthof 9-Inch Honing Steel
Wusthof 9-Inch Honing Steel

A classic honing steel by any measure, the Wusthof 9-inch steel is a great, affordable honing rod to have in your kitchen. Made of stainless steel, this is everything you want from a honing rod. It’s light and tough and made by a company with more than two centuries of history making knives.

A strong, robust honing rod is what every knife owner should be looking for, and this one checks the boxes.

MSRP: $25

Zwilling 12-Inch Professional Oval Sharpening Steel

Zwilling 12-Inch Professional Oval Sharpening Steel
Zwilling 12-Inch Professional Oval Sharpening Steel

Sometimes you just need something a little bigger and heartier. This steel from Zwilling is up to the task. Its oval shape and longer length make it great for bigger knives. The chrome-plated steel is hard enough to hone most types of steel with ease and is easy to clean.

The loop at the end lets you hang it up easily too. Weighing in at just under a pound, don’t let that fool you. This is a heavyweight rod that will withstand years of use in your kitchen.

MSRP: $69.99

JB Prince Mac Black Ceramic Honing Rod With Grooves 10.5-Inch

With a fine 1200 grit, this ceramic rod from JB Prince is incredibly hard and durable. Its black ceramic coating is harder than both white ceramic and steel, and it’s also resistant to breaking so it can handle whatever you throw at it. Since it’s ceramic, it has the benefit of being completely rust-resistant, unlike traditional steel rods.

Most knife blocks that come with a honing rod will have a steel varietal, but looking beyond the block can lead you to quality rods like this one that can last a lifetime.

MSRP: $64

Opinel 10-Inch Diamond Steel Sharpening Rod

Opinel 10-Inch Diamond Steel Sharpening Rod
Opinel 10-Inch Diamond Steel Sharpening Rod

When it comes to rods that also sharpen, you can’t go better than diamond steel. This Opinel rod has a coating embedded with diamonds that sharpens as it hones. It’s good for both kitchen and pocket knives so you sharpen your EDC with it as well.

With a beechwood handle, and weighing 21 ounces, this rod feels good in the hand and will leave a pristine edge on your knives. Worth the price in every way for the discerning knife owner.

MSRP: $59

Green Elephant Ceramic Sharpening Rod

Yes, there are many ceramic rods on the market today, but you’d have a hard time finding one as robust and durable as this one from Green Elephant. With a grit of 1500, the rod is fine enough to lightly sharpen along with honing and realigning your blade. It’s also suitable for Japanese knives which may come with only one cutting edge instead of a Western, or German, style double-edged knife.

The silicone seal between the rod and the handle is designed to absorb vibrations and the whole construction is built to withstand being dropped without cracking. Lightweight and fairly-priced, this 11-inch rod is worth a look.

MSRP: $29.95

Friedr Dick 10-Inch Sharpening Steel

It is almost impossible to chip this rod thanks to being coated in diamond dust. From German maker Friedr Dick, this 10-inch rod is diamond-coated steel is designed for the heavy knife user in mind.

An oval shape allows more of the blade to contact the rod with each pass which means each knife takes less passes to hone. The ergonomic, dual-density polymer grip keeps everything safe and secure when passing the blade down the rod.

The catch-22 is the diamond itself. Yes, it will return your knife’s edge quicker, but use the rod too often and it’ll scrape off material far faster than other types of rods.

MSRP: $82.99

Kuma Kitchen Knife Sharpener

Some rods are designed for only one type or knife or are too short to properly hone long chef’s or slicing knives. This honing steel from Kuma is the consummate all-arounder. The steel reliably restores your knife’s edge thanks to its carbon steel construction. The triple-riveted ergonomic handle is slip resistant so even honing wet knives (although you shouldn’t do that on a honing rod) can be done safely.

Unlike most of the other rods on this list, this steel will need more hands-on maintenance due to its carbon steel construction otherwise it will rust.

MSRP: $37.97

Friedr Dick Multicut Steel

Freidr Dick steel

Another entry on this list from the German maker, this honing steel looks unlike anything else out there today. At first glance it’s easy to think this is a misplaced paddle, but in reality it’s a multi-dimensional honing steel.

The flat 11-inch blade has six parallel grooves running through it. Slide your knife down the main body of the steel and it’ll hone like any other rod. However, slide down one of the grooves and you can more precisely remove burrs and imperfections from the blade.

This is far and away the priciest honing steel on the list so you’ll need to determine if it’s worth the investment or if you would be better served using one of the other rods to hone your knives.

MSRP: $149.95

Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.

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BLADE University 2022: College Of Cut Schedule

Learn the latest about knifemaking techniques and other trending sharp subjects during the 9th Annual BLADE University 2022 Friday and Saturday of the BLADE Show.

Sponsored by Work Sharp, BLADE University has the most extensive schedule of knife, knifemaking and other instruction held at any knife show. New classes for 2022 include How To Forge a Sub-Hilt Knife with ABS master smith Steve Randall; Post-heat-Treat Grinding with custom knifemaker RJ Martin; How To Start a Knife Company with Diane Carver and Kimi Jensen of Brighten Blades; Keys to Outstanding Hamons with ABS master smith Brion Tomberlin; and more.

For the full list of classes, see the accompanying schedule. For enrollment and other information visit show.com/show-info/classes, or the Registration Counter in the show lobby.

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BLADE University 2022 Class Schedule

FRIDAY, JUNE 3

8 a.m.-9:30 a.m.: Fundamentals of Grinding, The Courtyard. Award-winning knifemakers Tom Krein and Lucas Burnley take you through the process.
10 a.m.-11 a.m.: Exploring the History of Synthetics, Room 107. The Hawks Nest Customs team explores some of the types of synthetic materials used on knives.
10:30 a.m.-11:30 a.m.: Cryo-Quenching Steel: What It Does and Is It For Your Blades? Room 104. Steel authority and author Larrin Thomas explains the subject in detail.
1 p.m.-2 p.m.: How To Forge a Sub-Hilt Knife, Room 107. Steve Randall outlines his process for forging and building his hidden-tang sub-hilt model.
1:30-2:30 p.m.: Bladesmithing: A Teacher’s Angle, Room 103. ABS master smith Murray Carter delineates how he operated the Muteki bladesmith apprenticeship program for 10 years and provides advice on starting a larger knife manufacturing business.
3 p.m.-4 p.m.: Keys to Outstanding Hamons, Room 107. ABS master smith Brion Tomberlin will school you on most everything you need to know on the subject.
3:30 p.m.-4:30 p.m.: Hands-On Knife Sharpening Workshop, Room 113. Bring your own knife or a borrowed one and learn the progression of shaping a bevel, sharpening and edge maintenance from the team at Work Sharp.
4:30 p.m.-5:30 p.m.: Knives With History, Room 107. Knifemaker Jason Fry discusses different ways to incorporate historical material into knives.

SATURDAY, JUNE 4

8:30 a.m.-9:30 a.m.: Decorative Filework, Room 113. Knifemaker Kyle Daily of KHDaily Knives shows you his preferred files and step-by-step how he creates his five most popular patterns.
8:30 a.m.-9:30 a.m.: Post-Heat-Treat Grinding, The Courtyard. RJ Martin demonstrates techniques for grinding premium stainless steels after they have been heat treated.
9:30 a.m.-10:30 a.m.: How to Make A Coffin Knife Handle, Room 104. ABS journeyman smith Mace Vitale explains how he constructs the handles and shows you as well.
9:45 a.m.-10:45 a.m.: How To Start a Knife Company, Room 107. Diane Carver and Kimi Jensen of Brighten Blades recently started their new knife concern and share how you can start one, too.
11 a.m.-12 p.m.: Women’s Bladesmith/Knifemaker Panel, Room 113. Join ABS master smith Veronique Laurent of Belgium, Grace Horne of Sheffield, England, ABS journeyman smith Lora Schwarzer and Abie Lyons as they outline how to succeed as a woman in a male-dominated industry.
2 p.m.-3 p.m.: How to Texture Titanium Knife Handles, Room 104. Shane Magnussen of Scorpion 6 explains the grinder, appropriate machine setup, varieties of abrasive belts and more for the texturing method.
2:15 p.m.-3:15 p.m.: Hands-On Knife Sharpening Workshop, Room 113. For a redo of the class by the same name (see the description under Friday at 3:30 p.m.-4:30 p.m.), here’s your chance in Work Sharp’s encore presentation.
2:30 p.m.-3:30 p.m.: Exotic and Advanced Knife Techniques Used in Bushcraft, Room 107. Joe Flowers, knife designer and jungle guide, demonstrates and gives a presentation on outdoor-based knife skills from around the world.
4 p.m.-5 p.m.: Linerlock/Framelock Design & Construction Geometry, Room 104. David Carver of Carver Knife Co. teaches basic design, steps to build and the processes needed in detail, as well as flow, lock geometry and completion.

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