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Photos: World War II Fixed Blade Knives

Armed Forces Day 2018

Saturday, May 19, 2018, is Armed Forces Day. It’s a day to “participate in exercises expressive of our recognition of the skill, gallantry, and uncompromising devotion to duty characteristic of the Armed Forces in the carrying out of their missions,” as President Harry Truman put it in 1950

BLADE is doing its part by taking a look back at the knives that accompanied those in uniform during World War II. When BLADE writes about lives depending on knives, it’s not only referring to the user. If a soldier depends on a knife, then citizens also depend on that knife.


Editor’s note: The following is by Richard D. White.

MARK 1

Examples of World War II knives
Pal (bottom) and Robeson made these Mark 1’s with wood pommels. Wood was used because of a shortage of aluminum during World War II. Both knives feature handmade sheaths, probably made on ships by servicemen. (All images by Richard D. White)

Featuring a 5-to-5.25-inch flat-ground blade, the Mark 1 utility knife was adopted by the Navy as a survival-type knife with sheath. Every sailor who worked “topside” was issued a fixed blade for cutting ropes/line.

The Mark I probably the World War II military knife encountered most in the marketplace. There are a significant number of different varieties—some historians say as many as 42. Camillus, Colonial, Geneva Forge, Pal, Robeson, KA-BAR, Boker and Kinfolks made them.

Blade finishes included polished, blued and Parkerized. Pommels were the traditional bird’s-beak design or flat of steel, plastic or wood. Handles generally were stacked leather—some with fiber spacers, some without. Mark 1’s by Colonial had injected plastic handles.

MARK 2

World War II knives
Two excellent Mark 2’s stamped “KA-BAR” are synonymous with World War II U.S. military combat knives. Union Cutlery Co. made approximately 1 million USMC-stamped KA-BAR knives for distribution in the South Pacific. 

The Mark 2 was made available to combat soldiers in 1943. It was 12 inches long with a 7-inch blade. The handle was stacked leather, generally grooved. It was held in place with a steel washer pinned to the tang. Examples are plentiful and often were photographed hanging from the belts of soldiers who fought in the South Pacific Islands.

KA-BAR World War II knives
The backs of the KA-BAR Mark 2 tangs show the very deep, distinctive “USMC” stamping—a stated preference of the author’s—on the polished (left) and coated blades.

KA-BAR, Robeson, Pal, Utica, Ontario and Camillus were the major manufacturers of the Mark 2. Variations included different spacer colors, marks/stamps, pommel thicknesses and materials, piening vs. welding of the pommels, blue vs. polished blades, and smooth vs. grooved handles.

M3

Mark 3 knife
The M3—this one by Camillus—is one of the most desirable World War II combat knives because of its double-edge blade. Though over 2.5 million supposedly were produced during World War II, prices remain quite high for them. Boker, Kinfolks, Robeson, Utica, Imperial, Case, Aerial and Pal also made M3s.

The M3 was designed to meet a shortage of combat knives, especially in early 1942. According to Frank Trzaska, a military knife historian, the decision to design the M3 rather than continuing to produce the Mark 2 was based on a U.S. steel shortage.

The M3 was selected because it was easier to manufacture and had a thinner blade, which was 6.75 inches and sharpened the full length, excluding the stamped tang area. The top edge was sharpened about a third of the blade length. The guard was thick steel angled on top to form a thumb rest.

The handle was stacked leather with a series of cut grooves. Originally there were supposed to be eight grooves, but some companies generally used to six to seven. The grooves provided better purchase. The pommel was flat steel and pinned to the tang.

The M3 had many variations, including added spacers at the guard and pommel end, or piening the tang over to hold the pommel in place as opposed to pinning the pommel onto the tang.

GO WESTERN 

Baby Shark knives
Because of the shortage of brass and aluminum during World War II, Western used plastic for the guards and pommels of its “Baby Shark” models.

Any review of World War II military fixed blades must include several examples of Western knives. While some are very rare, such as the L-76, L-77, “Bushman” and USMC parachutist knives, several examples are more ubiquitous.

One is the “Shark.” Western made two: one with a 6-inch blade, the G46-6, and one with a 5-inch blade, the G46-5. Both had huge blood grooves, stacked leather handles, and several different guards and pommels. Both came with flat steel, aluminum or mottled-brown-plastic pommels.

Guards were double steel, the very rare brass or plastic like the pommels. Many times the guards and pommels were mixed and matched. The smaller Sharks were issued to Navy and Army Air Corps pilots as a bailout knife. Blade finishes were blued and polished.

World War II combat knives
Of these two Western 46-8 combat knives, the more traditional World War II vintage is the bottom one, with flat steel pommel and blued blade. The top model is perhaps post-World War II because it features a brass guard. Because of the demand for brass for artillery shells and ammunition, few World War II military knives feature the material for guards.

Another Western World War II fixed blade was the 46-8, a huge, impressive combat knife with an 8-inch blade. It was officially known as the G46. The blade had a massive blood groove and upswept false edge on the spine. The knife featured stacked leather handles, double-sided steel guards, and flat steel pommels. Most had blued blades, though some were polished.

225-Q

US military knives World War II
The Cattaraugus 225Q was favored by GIs because of its massive, thick blade and the three-part steel pommel. The sheath is in mint condition and was bought with the knife from a 95-year-old veteran of World War II. Most 225Q’s have a rough groove cut into the stacked leather handle for enhanced purchase.

The Cattaraugus 225-Q had one of the strongest blades of any World War II combat knife. Many observers say it was for quartermasters, with the “Q” standing for quartermaster. As the thinking goes, the rather stout blade was designed to open various wooden crates—an important part of the quartermaster’s job—and the triple steel pommel was used to nail the crates closed.

Still others say the knife was designed for and used by U.S. special operatives during World War II. As with any military knife, be careful not to fall victim to the opinions of so-called experts, especially when they attribute particular knives to units like the Devils’ Brigade, Commandos, OSS, Underwater Demolition Team, etc.

Some military knives—not just the 225Q—were stamped very lightly, while others were deeply stamped.


Keep Learning About Knife History

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10 Knifemaking Questions with Naked & Afraid’s Laura Zerra

You may know Laura Zerra from her appearances on the Discovery Channel program, Naked & Afraid, or at BLADE Show. What you might not know is that she’s also an accomplished knifemaker with a book coming out July 3, 2018, titled, A Modern Guide to KnifemakingNo less than BLADE Magazine Cutlery-Hall-of-Fame® member Ken Onion, Kaila Cumings, and Mike Jones contributed to the tome.

Fresh from an extended stay in the wilderness, Zerra talked with BLADE about knifemaking, survival knives and the biggest mistake people new to knifemaking make.


BLADE: Most people know of you through Naked & Afraid. Did you get into knifemaking after appearing on that show or was this something you were always practicing?

LZ: I used to be a farrier, so I got my first introduction to knifemaking through blacksmithing. I used to mess around with steel in the forge, and that led to trying my hand at making knives. As a survivalist and outdoors person, I’ve always had a love for knives, and starting to make my own was a natural progression.

What spurred you to write your new book, A Modern Guide to Knifemaking?

I was working on outlining a survival book, and my editor saw that I’d just been at BLADE Show. We talked about the possibility of me writing a book on knifemaking. I’ve always loved knives, and have been in numerous situations where my life literally depended on my blade. I’ve also been humbled by all the legendary knifemakers I know, and I don’t have the expansive years of experience and talent that a lot of them do.

The thought of writing a book on knifemaking was really intimidating at first, but I realized that my perspective would allow to me to write a book that could really break it down for a beginner, and that my relationship with knives as a survivalist could offer some unique insight. Knifemaking is one of those skills that everyone does a little bit differently, so I wanted to interview some experts in the field and have them offer their two cents, as well.

How to make survival knives

Can someone with little knifemaking experience pick this up and go at it?

I wrote the book that I wish I’d had when I first started knifemaking. I wanted someone with absolutely no experience to be able to pick up my book and be able to make their first knife, from start to finish. While I do talk about what has worked for me in my experience, I think knifemaking is personal. I really wanted to encourage the reader to experiment with different processes as well as designs to develop their own style and find what works for them.

What’s your philosophy when it comes to knifemaking?

As a survivalist, first and foremost, my knives have to be functional and durable. A knife has to be able to complete the tasks I need it to, and I don’t want to have to worry about it breaking or losing an edge quickly when I’m depending on it for my survival. That being said, I don’t think that means it has to be unattractive; I think a functional knife can still be beautiful, and a skilled knifemaker can complete both these objectives.

Laura Zerra knives
Zerra says she prefers working with 1095.

What are your favorite steels to work with?

I like working with 1095 steel. I find it easy to move with a hammer, and it holds a great edge with a good heat treat. But I have to admit, I’m a sucker for damascus carbon steel. Well-made damascus really does well with that balance of function and beauty. I just love the moment of pulling it out of the etch and seeing how the pattern has played out on the steel.

What’s the biggest mistake people make when first starting out making knives?

I think the biggest mistake people make is not getting started at all. I’ve talked to so many people who have told me, “I’ve always wanted to make a knife!” but have never actually done it. Getting started can be intimidating for people, and that can be enough to prevent them from ever getting out there and doing it.

If I could tell people one thing, it would be to commit to doing it; not in a year, not when you have time, but right now. And don’t be scared of making mistakes. Mistakes are a natural part of getting into any new skill, and are an important part of the learning process; but you have to actually get out in the shop to start making them!

Laura Zerra knifemaker
Laura Zerra, star of TV’s “Naked & Afraid,” at work in her shop. (all shop images provided by Laura Zerra)

Is there such a thing as a “survival knife” or are there only knives used for survival purposes?

I think the term “survival” is too broad to describe a specific type of knife. Where am I surviving? What’s the environment like? What tasks will I need my knife to perform?

Different circumstances will be best met with different qualities in a knife, from overall size and shape to steel choice to blade geometry. To try to make a “One Size Fits All” blade that will be the best tool for every survival situation seems like an impossible task.

In seasons 1 and 2 of Naked & Afraid, you brought with you a Kershaw Outcast and a Diving Sparrow Mako Shark, respectively. Both of those sport big blades (10 inches and 11.25 inches). Is it safe to say that machetes are better than knives with smaller blades for survival purposes?

 

Kershaw Outcast
Kershaw Outcast
Mako Shark knife
Mako Shark

I brought those knives based on my location in the tropics. Both of those knives made easy work of cutting through a massive amount of palm leaves and opening coconuts. It’s a bit more difficult to carve trap parts or butcher meat, but it can still be done.

A machete can be used to complete more delicate tasks by changing the way you use the cutting edge; for example, when gutting small game, I hold the machete between my feet and move the animal across the blade instead of trying to move the big knife across the much smaller animal.

For jungle survival, I absolutely recommend a big blade because the of amount of material you’ll be chopping though. Put me in a desert or a deciduous forest, however, and I’m likely to bring a smaller blade; it just depends.

What’s your take on survival knives versus survival multi-tools (those 31-in-1 sorts of things)? Are those multi-tools any better than a knife that’s just a knife?

I prefer a simple knife. A multi-tool has its place in urban survival and everyday use, but I find all those extra tools and edges can limit the use of your blade and get in the way. As a primitive survivalist, I’m used to improvising with what I have so maybe that’s part of it. I know people who love multi-tools, so I guess it’s personal preference.

Laura Zerra knifemaker
Careful around the grinder, warns Zerra.

In the name of safety, we run a series on blademag.com about knifemakers’ worst accidents in the shop (so that no one else repeats the same mistakes). Have you ever had an accident in the shop? What did you do differently the next time around?

Yup! When I first started using the grinder, I ground a big notch out of one of my fingers. It took a minute to start bleeding, but then it gushed for quite awhile. I had to quit for the day, because my hands were so slippery from my own blood that I couldn’t hold the blade anymore.

It definitely gave me respect for the grinder, and I was more aware of the fact that the belt removes flesh much faster than steel. I also had a shirt catch on fire from hot steel dust gathering in a fold. I’d love to tell you that I wear a leather apron now but I’d be lying.

Keep up with Laura Zerra on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and her website.


You Never Know Who You’ll Meet at BLADE Show

Laura Zerra is just one of the celebrities who have attended BLADE Show. The 2018 version takes place June 1 to 3 in Atlanta. Buy tickets and find information here.

5 New Knives for the Outdoorsy Crowd

For Those Willing to Wait (a Little): Realsteel Knives Relict

Realsteel Knives Relict

The Relict, from Realsteel Knives, won’t be out until May 18, but it’s already catching some buzz. Full specs aren’t available yet, but the company did have this to say on its Facebook page:

Named purposely after its design features, that include a bullet cartridge opener, extendable clip and splicingly sharp S35VN cutting edge, the Relict takes Eastern European designs of past and adds that extra bit of class to them.

Because the Relict sits on the higher end of Realsteel’s catalog, expect it to go for a few hundred dollars when it hits shelves.

More info


For the Bushcrafter: Condor Tool & Knife Headstrong

condor tool and knife headstrong

The Headstrong, from Condor Tool & Knife, sports a 1095 blade, a choice steel for bushcrafters and survivalist types who enjoy versatility in their sharpening methods. That the blade is uncoated may speak to the aesthetic preference of its designer, Joe Flowers, but it’s worth noting because of how passionate bushcrafters are about their knives.

More info


For the Backpack: Eldris Limited Edition 2018

Morakniv Eldris

It’s small, it only comes in one color and it comes with a firesteel. It’s Morakniv’s Eldris Limited Edition 2018.

In addition to its collectibility, the Eldris is basically a high-functioning fire-starting kit. A small fixed blade knife replaces an otherwise single-purpose striker. An aubergine handle and sheath (that’s a color similar to eggplant, not a material) suggests a female user, but there’s no reason to pigeonhole this kit in that way. If you need a fire in a pinch, the last thing on your mind will be aubergine. It’s too hard to spell anyway.

More info


For the Mil-Tac Crowd: Bear OPS New AC-551-B4-B Tactical Automatic Knife

Bear OPS New AC-551-B4-B

It won’t ship outside of Alabama, but maybe an authorized dealer can wrap your hands around the G10 on Bear OPS’s new AC-551-B4-B. That’s a mouthful to say, so Bear OPS gave it the “Bold Action V” name, too. 

No matter what you call it, it continues Bear OPS’s line of autos at economical prices.

  • Blade Material: Sandvik 14C28N Stainless Steel
  • Handle Material: Black G10
  • Open Length: 8-3/4″
  • Closed Length: 5″
  • Blade Length: 3-3/4″
  • Weight: 5.4 oz.
  • Extras: Automatic Opening & Safety Lock & Reversible Pocket Clip
  • MSRP: $171.99

More info


For Collectors: Victorinox Deluxe Tinker Damast Limited Edition 2018

Swiss army knife for collectors

Part of the appeal of Swiss army knives (SAK) is their bang-for-buck factor. They’re affordable and offer loads of utility. But what about higher end SAKs for collectors interested in another kind of value?

Collectors should take note of the Deluxe Tinker Damast Limited Edition 2018, from Victorinox. It offers the same multi-tool platform SAK fans expect, plus features that wouldn’t look out of place at a black-tie event. 

From Victorinox:

This year’s limited edition Damast Swiss Army Knife features the “Ladder” Damast pattern forged from an impressive 333 layers of steel and is complimented by plum wood scales with a metal inlay cross + shield. The 2018 model marks the first use of plum wood and the first Damast edition with combination pliers.

  • Swiss made pocket knife with 15 functions
  • Large Damast steel blade
  • Sequential numbering on every piece
  • Limited to 6,000 pieces worldwide
  • Plum wood handles
  • Weight: 4.3 oz
  • MSRP: $300

More info


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4 Paring Knives for Mom

Editor’s note: All images courtesy of the participating companies.

Go-To Knives

Look up paring—as in paring knife—in the Merriam-Webster dictionary and ol’ Mr. Webster says it’s “the act of cutting away an edge or surface.”

This raises a question.

If the paring knife was originally designed as a peeling knife, does it still matter? Or is it relegated to the back of the flatware drawer, consigned to a future of rust and dust?

Chef Timothy Hollingsworth, who wears the double hat of chef and owner at the California restaurants with the respective names of Otium and Barrel and Ashes, said the scrappy paring knife—with a blade less than 4 inches designed for food prep—still holds its own against $5 peelers and glinting chef’s knives. Not only is a paring knife designed to peel, it can be called on to prepare pearl onions, scrape mushrooms and cut intricate designs to give food extra pizzazz.

“For the home cook,” Hollingsworth said, “paring knives are great because you’re able to hold the vegetables or fruit in your hand while cutting, whether that’s cutting potatoes into smaller chunks, or peeling an apple and cutting it into bite-sized pieces.”

Mother’s Day is around the corner, a time that seeks to honor the women whose varied accomplishment include making many a home-cooked meal, often with paring knife in hand. From contemporary to traditional, here are four designs that represent the latest in one of Mom’s go-to tools.

Kai Luna Paring Knife

Kai Luna paring knife

Kai Luna paring knife

It was about 10 years ago that Scott Zahm, director of sales for the housewares division of Kai USA Ltd., and other of his compatriots at Kai noticed people used paring knives as small utility blades, chopping a handful of parsley on a cutting board, for example.

“Many home cooks prefer a smaller knife that’s less intimidating and easier to control,” he said. Kai took to the drawing board with its Pure Komachi 2 and the resulting blade shape was wider than a traditional paring knife, with a deeper belly. The shape helped users navigate a cutting board with more agility.

This issue’s cover knife (page 7), the newer Luna Paring Knife, features the same profile. “We made the Kai Luna series for the adventurous cook on a budget,” Zahm said. The knife features a tsuchime, or hammered finish, and the edge is honed to a 16-degree angle on each side.

“All of the knives in the Luna series offer the performance good cooks demand at a price that even aspiring cooks can afford,” Zahm said. “With Luna’s tsuchime finish and contemporary styling, it’s an exciting and eye-catching addition to any kitchen.”

With a modified blade shape, does the paring knife usurp a chef’s knife in utility? Not really, Zahm said. Chef’s and paring knives work with each other, handling different-sized cutting jobs. Both are essential in the cook’s workspace.

Spyderco K09 Mini Paring Knife

Spyderco paring knife

Spyderco “thought small” when it redesigned the K09 Mini Paring Knife. The company still offers utility knives 4 and 6 inches long. However, Spyderco’s Joyce Laituri compared the K09 to a scalpel, giving users options from peeling fruit to removing small bones from meat.

“I use mine every year at Halloween to start the pumpkin carving process,” Laituri said. “We draw the face on a pumpkin and the K09 goes through gourd like a laser. It is easily controlled letting you create intricate and even lacy designs.”

Three years ago, Spyderco reintroduced the K09 with a new handle material. The Japanese-made knife features a polypropylene grip with ridges to enhance purchase with wet hands.

The K09’s 2.25-inch blade of MBS-26 stainless steel is thinly ground. The result is a blade that keeps its edge and has a slight spring to it, Laituri observed. When it comes to how often people should reach for a paring knife, Laituri said it depends on the cook. She often uses Spyderco’s 6-inch serrated utility knife. Her husband, on the other hand, barbecues and rarely uses a paring knife.

Fällkniven CMT Zulu

Fällkniven paring knife

“I believe the paring knife is one of the most used knives in the kitchen and also the knife with the lowest reputation,” said Peter Hjortberger, founder of Fällkniven AB. “Usually a paring knife is made for being cheap, a knife you don’t need to care much about, just a [semi] sharp edge for daily tasks.”

Fällkniven went in the opposite direction, making the 3-inch blade of the CMT Zulu of laminated COS steel, the core consisting of a stainless steel that contains a high percentage of cobalt. Hjortberger called it “technically, a very advanced steel.”

“So, instead of searching for the cheapest steel, we go for the best steel, understanding that this knife will last a hundred years or more,” Hjortberger said. “To me, this is climate smart to make high-quality knives which will last during several generations instead of uttering out crap.”

The knife is full tang and handled with Micarta. The CMT Zulu features an old-world design ground with a convex edge common on knives before the Industrial Revolution. It is made in Japan with Swedish materials and quality control.

Often, the paring knife is the most-reached-for kitchen tool, not just for cooking but also for common household chores. Paring knives are non-frightening, Hjortberger said, and women might like the more manageable design.

Case Paring Knife

Case paring knife

According to Case’s Fred Feightner, paring knives have homes in restaurants offering nearly every type of cuisine. In 2012, Case resurrected its paring knife offering, giving home cooks the option of a handle of black synthetic or walnut. With the walnut handles, brass rivets gleam from the wood. Case offers four paring knives in its Household Cutlery collection.

“We knew people would want their household set to be complemented by a paring knife or two,” Feightner opined. “Case paring knives have been a part of the American kitchen’s tool set for many years.”

Case manufactures paring knives with either a clip-point blade, where the clip drops to the gently curving edge, and the spear-point, where the spine and edge meet in an acute tip. Both are made from Case Tru-Sharp™ surgical steel, the company’s equivalent of 420HC stainless.

Paring Knife Maintenance Tips

After use, a few moments of care can extend the life of a paring knife. While convenient for pots and pans, etc., the dishwasher is notorious for destroying knives.

“Dishwashers are never kind to household knives,” Feightner said, “because the blade edges can be dulled by the movement of the knives during cleaning, and the detergents made for automatic dishwashers will tend to stain and pit the blades. Our wooden-handled knives have natural oils and pigments within them that can be compromised by the high temperatures employed by the dishwasher. As a result, fading and splitting of the wooden handles can occur.

“We recommend hand washing, using a mild-strength detergent, followed by a prompt water rinsing and hand drying with a clean towel. Cleaning products that include chlorine and/or bleach in them can cause the stainless-steel blades to discolor and pit.”

Knives stored loosely in a drawer can rattle against each other, chipping edges and posing cutting hazards to anyone rummaging for a blade. Once their knives are clean, professional chefs store them in a knife bag, roll or case. At home, a knife block, a magnetic strip or in a drawer as long as they are in sheaths, work equally as well to preserve the life of kitchen knives. After all, from feats of culinary artistry to cutting string, the paring knife will rest in kitchens for decades to come.

Mom, or Anyone, Will Like This, too

The official knife of BLADE Show 2018 is this special edition CRKT Caligo.

  • Only 150 made
  • Serialized number
  • BLADE Show logo on blade
  • Designer TJ Schwarz’s signature on the blade

Get this instant collectible now for only $49.99 at ShopBlade.com.

“Rambo V” Movie Announced for Fall 2019 Release

rambo v movie poster

 

After years of being as mythical as its title character, the fifth movie in the Rambo franchise, Rambo V, is slated for a fall 2019 release, according to Deadline:

In the fifth episode of the franchise, when the daughter of one of his friends is kidnapped, Rambo, who has been working on a ranch, crosses the U.S.-Mexican border and quickly finds himself up against the full might of one of Mexico’s most violent cartels.

Sylvester Stallone confirmed the announcement on his Instagram account:

 

… Something wicked is coming this way!

A post shared by Sly Stallone (@officialslystallone) on

Upon release, it will mark 11 years since the previous installation, 2008’s Rambo. It will also be the second in the franchise with a title that mercifully follows the logical sequence of releases (First Blood [1982], First Blood: Part 2 [1985], Rambo III [1988], Rambo [2008], Rambo V).

Another False Start?

That’s if it releases. The only proof of life is the movie poster and some press. Stallone was non-committal when BLADE pressed him about it last year, saying only, “Never say never” (read the full interview here).

Even Rambo’s creator, First Blood author David Morrell, expressed his doubts when the news broke today.

Time will tell. That the announcement comes during the Cannes Film Festival could mean this is only a play to see whether investors will bite. A little hype from the fan base, by way of a poster release, couldn’t hurt those prospects.

Who Will Make the Knife?

Cutlery-Hall-of-Fame® member Gil Hibben made the knives for Rambo III and Rambo, but it’s not clear whether he will be back for a third time. Regardless of who makes the knife, it’s encouraging to see the poster feature a blade. Sourcing the knife won’t be an afterthought.

Even if the movie is financed and starts production, it may be a while before the knifemaker is selected. Not only would the commission need to be negotiated, but Stallone himself will have to sign off on the design. 

Cutlery-Hall-of-Fame® member James Lile created the iconic knives for First Blood and its sequel, First Blood: Part 2.

Stay Tuned

BLADE will report on developments as they occur. Keep an eye on the movie’s IMDB page, too.

Can’t Get Enough Rambo? Download BLADE‘s Rambo Issue

BLADE magazine Rambo issue

Make a Bowling Ball Vise in 6 Steps

Bowling ball vise for knifemaking
Joe Keeslar’s bowling ball vise uses a lawn mower tire for a base. A machinist’s drill press vise typically used for drilling and milling is mounted on top.
Using a bowling ball vise
The bowling ball vise holds the wood securely as Keeslar lightly hammers the silver wire during his BLADE University class at BLADE Show 2014.

According to ABS master smith Don Hethcoat, “Bowling balls make the perfect vise for knifemakers doing inlays and similar close work where you need both stability and flexibility. You can buy an old bowling ball at a flea market or thrift store for two or three dollars.”

In his own words, here are Don’s six steps.

1) Saw

Make a vise out of a bowling ball

“Saw off about one-third of the bowling ball, getting rid of the old finger holes. I used a metal band saw but you may have other means.”

2) Drill

Bowling ball vise

“Drill five holes in the flat top of the ball, one at each corner of a square with one in the middle using a half-inch drill bit, then chisel out a cavity in the center of the ball.”

3) Fill

“Fill the opened cavity almost to the top with lead shot to add weight, then seal the shot to the top of the hole with automotive Bondo® filler.”

4) Mount

Mounted vise on bowling ball

“Make a round cover for the flat top of the ball using metal, wood or Formica®. Mount your vise on top of this. Mine is a machinist’s vise using its mounting system.”

5) Base

Bowling ball vise

“Make a base and you’re almost done. I used a round piece of 8-inch pipe cut to 2.5 inches in depth. Fill the pipe with Bondo, cover it with Saran™ Wrap and push the bottom part of the ball into it to make an impression. Clean up the excess Bondo.

6) Fit

“Cut a round piece of suede to fit inside the round cavity so the ball can rotate freely. That’s basically it! Feel free to modify the vise to fit your own scenario.”

Learn More Knifemaking Tricks

How to make a folding knife

New Knives: Hogue & SIG SAUER Partner Up, RAT Worx Debuts X-Factor

Hogue Knives to Launch SIG SAUER-Branded Automatics

SIG SAUER knives

New Hogue Knives

SIG SAUER, best known for its firearms, is once again teaming up to produce a line of knives, this time with Hogue Knives. It’s a natural partnership, since Hogue already produces G10 grips for SIG’s pistols. 

From Hogue:

All of HOGUE’s “SIG” marked knives pair with the popular styles of the SIG SAUER firearms Hogue produces grips for. Each have the familiar “SIG” mark either machined in G10 or inlayed with a circular medallion. Hogue’s popular X5, EX-04, and EX-01 knives (both manual folding and automatic variations) are available to match SIG SAUER’s Emperor Scorpion and Exclusive Series Firearms including the Legion Series. Hogue’s EX-02 flippers are available to match ASE, Extreme, Scorpion, and Emperor Scorpion firearms. Finally, the Hogue EX-F01 has matches to SIG SAUER’s Stainless Elite and Exclusive Series firearms.

Hogue knives are made in the USA. MSRP ranges between $199.95 and $279.95.

Sweetening the deal is Hogue’s exclusive stake to all SIG automatic knives.

SIG previously partnered with Ernest Emerson and Rick Hinderer.

SPECS


RAT Worx Debuts X-Factor

New Rat Worx automatic knives

RAT Worx‘s new X-Factor knives don’t mind if you’re right- or left-handed. This new line of ambidextrous automatics uses a roller chain that pivots on a ceramic ball bearing for fast action. Buttons on either side of the handle will deploy the blade, although only one can be pressed at a time.

From RAT Worx:

The blade is opened with the help of a roller chain and 2 dual nested counter wound springs, down the spine of the handle. The knife can easily be swapped to right or left handed use. The pocket clip is fully ambidextrous for right- or left-hand use as well (You have to modify the knife to switch it to left hand use by removing a couple of screws.)

Also notable is that the identifying information is hidden in the handle design.

SPECS

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