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10 Tips for Proper Knife Show Etiquette

Ask Permission

Always ask an exhibitor’s permission before picking up a knife from his table. Nothing’s worse than some ya-hoo barging up, grabbing a knife and launching into a spiel on how much he knows about knives. Treat the exhibitor like you would any decent human being and ask permission to pick up the knife first.

Considerations for Folders

If it’s a folding knife, after asking the exhibitor if you can pick it up, if it’s closed and you want to open it, ask if you can do so (though most every folder maker will expect you to open it, check the action, etc). And if it’s a multi-blade, NEVER open more than one blade at a time. It puts too much pressure on the backsprings and can cause undue wear and tear. If you’ve bought the knife, then open all the blades you want (though it will still cause undue wear on the backsprings). And if you open the blade(s), close it/them before handing the knife back to the maker.

Hand Someone a Knife Safely

how to give someone a knife

Mind Your Edges & Tips

Your blades are your responsibility! Mind those edges and tips. Nothing is ruder than gouging someone on your 6 because you’re strolling around with a sword under your armpit like some 18th-century field marshal.

Say It, Don’t Spray It

Be careful when you are examining an exhibitor’s knife not to spray spittle on the knife. Some people tend to “spray it instead of say it,” and spittle, if not wiped off, can cause “spit pits,” or tiny rust spots.

Wait Your Turn

Never interrupt an ongoing conversation at an exhibitor’s table. The exhibitor might be in the process of selling a knife and if you barge in and start blabbing away, it may chase the buying customer off. Besides that, it’s rude.

Make Way for Business

If you’re talking to an exhibitor and have no intention of buying a knife and see someone next to you who obviously is intent on buying a knife from the exhibitor, politely bow out and give way to the potential buyer.

Leave “I’ll Be Back” to Arnold

Before leaving his/her table, unless you are really going to do it, never tell the exhibitor, “I’ll be back.” Don’t be labeled an “I’ll Be Backer”! 😉

Haggling

Don’t haggle over price with custom knifemakers. They know how much time, effort and materials they put into a knife. If you don’t like the price, move on.

Getting in Close

Using a loupe to examine an antique knife is one thing but don’t use one to examine the custom maker’s knife at the maker’s table. It’s just not very good form. Now, if it’s a custom knife sold by a purveyor, that’s different. After all, if you have a question about the knife’s authenticity, it is possible that the purveyor made a mistake in buying the knife. We all err at times, right?

These are a few of the rules of knife show etiquette. There are others. Practice proper knife show etiquette and your entire show experience will benefit as a result.

Change The Types Of Knives You Collect?

Read this before deciding whether to change the types of knives you collect. (Written by Mike Haskew and excerpted from the March 2013 issue of BLADE®).

You may face a crossroads, a time of decision involving the realization that interests, tastes and possibly buying power change. In such situations, you may decide to begin collecting a different genre of knives, departing from what you have collected. If and when that time comes, evaluating your situation and making informed decisions is crucial.Hale_120608

Well-made vintage knives by legendary makers can be very attractive to collect. Lloyd Hale does the honors here in a chute knife sporting an ironwood handle with pearl and abalone inlay. (SharpByCoop.com photo)

Some basic questions loom large, from deciding what to collect to getting the best education on what is available, selling or retaining an existing collection, and, if the choice is to sell, then maximizing the revenue generated.

First, the decision to make a change deserves due consideration. “You should have a very good reason for it,” remarked Peter Gill, who has been collecting knives for 15 years, “no whims.”

While some are into knife collecting for profit, it is always prudent to collect what you like. After all, you may own it for a lifetime. 08BL0313

“I believe a collector who is going to start collecting another type of knife should buy and collect what he’s attracted to,” reasoned Ken Potolicchio, who bought his first handmade tactical folder, a large Tighe Pan by Brian Tighe, in the fall of 2001. “In other words, buy something you would like to own, handle or even use. Research the new type of knife to be collected and be comfortable with the effort and costs to start a new or additional collection.

“If you’re going to start collecting another type of knife, buy and collect what you’re attracted to,” reasoned Ken Potolicchio, who bought his first handmade tactical folder, a large Tighe Pan (above) by Brian Tighe, in the fall of 2001. “In other words, buy something you would like to own, handle or even use.” (Brian Tighe photo) 

“Ask yourself why you want to collect the new type of knife,” Ken continued. “Is it simply to make money, to carry and use the new knives, or is it in the pursuit of desirable knives of a new type? What if you change your mind? You need to be very sure, especially if the sale of your current collection is a factor.

“As to resources, I would recommend reading the magazines and contacting purveyors you may have dealt with, trust and have a relationship with, or that deal in the type of knives you’re planning to collect. Direct contact with the makers of the knives to be collected is a good idea. I’ve found that most are willing to talk about all aspects of their knives.”

Though you may be financially capable of retaining your current collection, you may have to liquidate your existing holdings to be able to afford to collect something new. Opinions vary on the best way to sell, and some experts tend to think that holding on to what you have already collected is the best of all options.ed's dad's wwII Ek

“Don’t buy knives that are damaged or of poor condition unless they are very old and rare, such as [antique] bowies, Civil-War-era knives, and rare military knives,” Marvin Clyncke commented. Ed Fowler’s dad carried this World War II-era Ek Model 3 during World War II. (Fowler photo)  

“If you decide to shift gears and like another kind of knife, you might consider the following,” advised Pete Cohan, a serious collector since the early 1960s. “Trade the knives you have for those you now wish you had, but be sure you know who you are trading with and be firm when it comes down to the final details. You could try to sell your old collection to somebody you know, but don’t let anyone talk you out of a few pieces. You may be left with the rest and can’t hardly give them away.”

If you are an informed collector, you have a solid sense of what your collection is worth and what you will take for it. Unless such a solid base is in place, the hazards of selling or trading are substantial. Tactics also will vary depending on your motivation—simply to recover your initial investment or to make as much profit as possible to plow into the acquisition of your newfound favorite knives.

Though selling your knives as a collection may move the transition process forward more rapidly than selling in ones or twos, there is a trade-off. Marvin Clyncke’s father worked for Western Cutlery in the late 1930s, and Marvin has been a collector for more than half a century.

“If you want to sell your existing collection, you should sell on eBay, as you reach the whole world there,” he recommended. “Selling as a collection is not a good idea unless you have a specific buyer who is willing to pay a good price. Selling as a collection, you are essentially eliminating a lot of folks who may have some of the same knives and don’t want to buy a whole collection just to get a few that they need. Also, the price of the whole collection could eliminate many buyers, especially if the collection is large. Selling individually definitely would realize top dollar for each piece.”

Cardinal Rules

• Collect what you like or even use;

• Chasing trends is a fool’s errand;

• Collecting knives that are hot now means paying top dollar now as well;

• Know which knives are collectible in specific geographic locations of the country;

• Inexpensive, low-end knives will never appreciate to any degree;

• Well-made, fine-condition knives should not lose you any money;

• Don’t buy damaged/poor condition knives unless they are very old and collectible, such as antique bowies and rare military knives.

A FOOL’S ERRAND

In the continuing debate of present vs. future value, collectors heading down a new road are regularly challenged with a values proposition. Collecting what is hot today by no means ensures an appreciation in price down the road, while collecting something that is under the radar now provides no assurances on an increase either.

“A collector should only collect what pleases him or her,” reiterated Gill. “Chasing trends is a fool’s errand.”

Cohan advised, “What is hot now and what will be hot in the future is the classic question asked by every stock market trader. The question and its answer in the case of pocketknives or knives in general is further complicated by such things as the geographic location of the collector. What is hot on the West Coast and what is hot in the South are often very different. This can provide opportunity as well as risk for the collector who is starting in another direction. It is still, in my opinion, better to collect knives that you like for whatever reason. The collectibility of knives and their ‘rarity’ at some future date remains an elusive projection.”IMG_1207 Pic 19

Potolicchio leans toward the long view and collecting for the future rather than some notion of today’s “hot” commodity. He provides an illustration of future value with a firearm that he bought some years ago. “I gave my son a Ruger 10/22 rifle that currently [fetches] about $275, and I have the original receipt for the rifle when I bought it new for $38.50,” he laughed.

What’s hot in the West and South are often very different, Pete Cohan observed. This can provide opportunity as well as risk if you’re starting over. For instance, at the G4 Show in Las Vegas, tactical folders such as those by Jeremy Marsh (including the one at top just above photographed by Mike Searson) turned heads. In the South, antique pocketknives such as those by New York Knife Co. (immediately above) remain collectible. 

According to Clyncke, collecting knives that are hot now means paying top dollar now as well. Whether such knives will even hold their value or simply become yesterday’s fad is anybody’s guess. He does, however, see the thrill and allure of collecting something reasonably priced today that may in fact appreciate in the days to come.

“It is a guessing game,” Marvin warns, “but quality is everything. Cheap-made, low-end knives will never appreciate to any degree. Well-made, fine-condition knives will surely not lose you any money. Again, research is a big help.”

Sources To Use

• Read knife publications and websites you trust;

• Contact purveyors with whom you have dealt, trust and deal in the types of knives in question;

• Have direct contact with the makers of the knives in question;

• Let as many people as possible know what new collectible you want;

• Ask your friends to be on the lookout for examples.

Knives2013

One of the best ways to research what is best to collect is to read publications you trust, such as the new KNIVES 2013

Experienced collectors may already have a feel for the do’s and don’ts of collecting a new style of knife. However, it pays to remember lessons learned and to benefit from the experiences of others.

“Don’t buy knives that are damaged or of poor condition unless they are very old and rare, such as [antique] bowies, Civil-War-era knives, and rare military knives,” Clyncke commented. “Junkers are a dime a dozen and will sell for a dime a dozen in 10 years. I would let as many folks know as possible what you’re looking for. Never tell them what you will pay, just what type of knives you want. If you tell them what you will pay and they’re surprised at the price, they may just keep the knives as an investment. Some good ones may pop up right away. It never hurts to have friends looking for you.”

Potolicchio added that research is a key element before the final decision to switch the type of knife being collected. Without investing enough time to understand the market for the new type of knife, you may never find your comfort zone, particularly if you have liquidated your existing collection in the process.

For Cohan, the collecting transition should be something of a soul-searching process. He advises considering several aspects of embarking on a new frontier in collecting.

“How available are the knives that you now fancy, and are they of recent vintage?” he asks. “Are they still in production or are they a ‘short run,’ which may or may not permit a wide distribution of the knives, directly affecting their collectibility? If the knives are antique, where will they be found and can they be found without undue cost? What are the prices typically asked for these knives in collectible condition? Are you going to collect only the mint or near mint/excellent examples, and can you afford to pay premium prices for this type of knife?”

Questions YOU NEED ANSWERED

• Do you have a very good reason for starting over?

• Are you comfortable with the effort and costs it will take to build a new collection?

• Do you want to make money or collect, carry or use the knives?

• What knives should you collect, and how do you best research them?

• How available are they and are they of recent vintage?

• Are they still in production or limited in distribution, both of which influence collectibility?

• If antiques, where can they be found and can they be found without undue cost?

• What are the prices typically asked for the knives in collectible condition?

• Are you going to collect only mint or near-mint examples, and can you afford to pay premium prices for them?

HAVE/EXECUTE A PLAN

Early in the collecting transition process, there may actually be more questions than answers. Nonetheless, if you plan appropriately and execute the plan, you continue to find your passion for knives rewarding, whatever type you seek.

KEEPING Your Knife Sharp

KEEPING your knife sharp entails more than knowing how to sharpen it. If you maintain the knife’s edge on a regular basis, it will eliminate having to re-establish the edge each time the knife goes dull.

Maintaining the edge is easy. The hard part is getting in the habit of doing it. However, once you get tired of re-establishing the edge every time your knife goes dull, you will appreciate how important the habit is.

Fine tune your edge with a GATCO TRI-SEPS.
Edge touch-ups are a breeze on the GATCO TRI-SEPS.

First, get one of the easy to use pull-through or similarly easy to use sharpeners and store it by wherever you put your knife at the end of the day. When you go to put your knife up, simply grab the sharpener and pull the blade edge through it five or six times. This should be enough to fine tune the edge and get it back to a working sharpness for the following day.

Such sharpeners as the GATCO TRI-SEPS are ideal for the job because they are easy to use and store or even carry. The TRI-SEPS, for instance, includes a chain for keyring carry. It sharpens both plain and serrated edges.

For more information on the GATCO TRI-SEPS—ideal for end-of-day edge touch-ups—click here.

Guilford Art Center Holds Juried Knife Exhibit

Calling all bladesmiths and knifemakers: the Guilford Art Center in Guildford, Connecticut, announces “Contemporary Knife Smithing: A Juried and Invitational Exhibition,” and is calling for submissions.

Bladesmithing is a thousands-year-old craft practiced in diverse cultures across the world. It has survived as an art form despite modern industrialization, with artisans dedicated to preserving and expanding traditional techniques. This exhibit will explore and highlight the artistry of the contemporary hand-crafted knife, as an object with both functional and aesthetic value.

Exhibit Dates: July 10-August 18, 2013 

Juror: An ABS journeyman smith, Mace Vitale practices blacksmithing and is a copper smith. He has a background in architectural pre-cast concrete, is owner of Laurel Rock Forge in Guilford, and is an instructor at the Guilford Art Center.Vitale_120608

Eligibility: This exhibition is open to knives made by U.S. residents.

Entries: Each artist may submit up to three (3) works. Each work may be represented by two separate images: one full view and one detail view. Work must be submitted in high-resolution digital format. For each entry please note dimensions of knife, and a maker’s list price (retail price), or not-for-sale/insurance value. Email entries to: [email protected].

Entry Fee for Applicants: $20. Includes up to three (3) submissions. Make check payable to Guilford Art Center and mail to 411 Church St., Guilford, CT 06437. Or call the Center with credit card number 203-453-5947. Payment must be received for entries to be eligible.

Entry Deadline: June 10, 2013. Digital images and entry fee must be received by this date.

Conditions:  All accepted works must arrive with a display case that closes for safety purposes during exhibition. All entries must be original and must be completed within the last 3 years. The Center reserves the right to reject entries that do not meet these requirements or is deemed unstable. Shipped work that differs from submitted images will not be accepted. Work damaged in shipping will regretfully not be presented. All accepted work must have proper identification. No accepted work may be picked up before the closing of the exhibition.  Work may be available for sale or must be identified as NFS. The retail price or insurance value provided on the entry form will be used; no changes may be made after the work is shipped.

Shipping: Shipping costs are the responsibility of the artist. A check for return shipping, including the cost of insurance, must accompany delivered work, payable to Guilford Art Center. Work damaged in shipping will not be presented. Detailed packing/handling instructions must accompany all works.

Hand Delivery: Please call the Center to make an appointment for hand delivery/pickup at 203-453-5947, Ext. 12, or email [email protected].

Receiving Deadline: All work must be received no later than these dates.

Sales/Insurance: A 40% commission on all sales will be retained by the Center. Artists must indicate sale price and insurance value or, if NFS, just insurance value. Submission of work to this exhibit is done so at the artist’s risk and implies an agreement on the part of the artist to all the conditions of this Call for Submission. GAC will not be responsible for loss or damage to work in transit, however, work will be insured while in the Guilford Art Center facility.

Publicity: Guilford Art Center reserves the right to photograph entries for the purposes of documentation, education and publicity. Accepted artists are encouraged to send to the Center a resume, artist statement, brochures, and additional photographic materials of the accepted work for publicity purposes.

 

Show Schedule:

Application due: June 10, 2013    

Artist Notification: June 14, 2013   

Receiving: June 24-28, 2013  (10am-4pm)  (Shipped/by appointment) 

Opening reception: July 10, 2013 (5-7pm) 

Closing:  August 18, 2013   

 Deinstallation: August 19-23, 2013 (10am-4pm) (Shipped/by appointment) 

For more information please contact Guilford Art Center at 203-453-5947, or visit www.guilfordartcenter.org.

Use A Hunting Knife Designed by Russ Kommer

A hunting knife is great—and when you use a hunting knife designed by an Alaskan hunting guide who also happens to be a knifemaker, that’s even better.

The Alaskan Skinner designed by Russ Kommer for Timberline.
A hot hunting knife is just what the doctor ordered—the Alaskan Skinner designed by Russ Kommer for Timberline.

The Alaskan Skinner from Timberline is a hunting knife designed by knifemaker Russ Kommer, who also is a long-time Alaskan hunting guide. Kommer spent most of his youth in the Minnesota north woods hunting, trapping and fishing. Idaho is where he got his start as a big-game guide in the Selway-Bitterroot Mountains. He took his passion for hunting to Alaska in 1984—which is where he also discovered his love of knives, particularly the hunting knife design, after dressing big game. He learned to design the most functional and comfortable hunting knife he could and started making versions of them in 1997.

Kommer’s custom knives include the hunting knife/skinner, camp knives, folders, “unique” fillet knives, fighters, boot knives, bowies, hatchets and tactical knives. In addition to Timberline, Kommer also has designed knives for CRKT, including the Signature line of hunting knife, and the Escalade and Extreme Mountain hunting knife models for Browning

The Alaskan Skinner features what is called an upswept blade with a hollow grind—great for high-performance field dressing, skinning and other chores associated with big game. Besides that, it will also help you prepare your meals in camp and do the other cutting chores that need doing outdoors.

The blade steel is a 440 stainless that fights corrosion and is relatively easy to sharpen compared to steels such as CPM S30V and others. The handle is a soft Zytel rubber with a palm swell to fill your hand, and finger grooves and a bird’s beak pommel to lock your hand in for any number of cutting tasks, from light slicing to heavy-duty cutting. Overall length: 9.625 inches. A black ballistic nylon sheath with belt loop is both handsome, durable and secure. Weight (including the sheath): 13.5 ounces.

Click here for more about this Russ Kommer hunting knife.

How To Build a Survival Shelter

The following is excerpted from a feature article by James Morgan Ayres that ran in the April 2013 issue of BLADE® Magazine.

Over 90 percent of wilderness deaths by mischance are caused by hypothermia. Knowing how to build an emergency shelter quickly can mean the difference between freezing to death and surviving. You can build a survival shelter that offers protection from cold and snow or rain in no more than 30 minutes, and with only the tools at hand—which is where knives can make the difference in getting the shelter up before it is too late.

5 Keys to An Emergency Shelter

1) Evaluate your situation and decide if you need to spend the night out before it gets so dark you cannot see to build a shelter; Expanding the framework of the shelter.2) If available, select a level spot that provides natural shelter—a large tree or boulder, for example. Barring that, choose a place that has building materials such as saplings or brush nearby; 3) Build a framework using the natural shelter as a base; 4) Cover the framework with branches, leaves, brush and whatever materials are available. If possible make the covering 6 inches to a foot thick; the thicker the covering, the better the insulation. If you are in an area where there are limited building materials, having a reflective blanket in your pocket could be a lifesaver. It weighs only about 3 ounces, is no larger than a handkerchief and can make a difference of up to 20°F, and; Expanding the framework of the shelter.5) Cover the floor with six-to-12 inches of leaves, pine needles, duff (decaying leaves and branches), or whatever is available for insulation. Leave the area near the entrance clear of debris. After making the cleared area safe for burning small pieces of kindling, build a small fire in it. The fire should be no larger than a soup bowl.

If you are properly dressed for the climate, you can spend the night in such a shelter with a tiny fire not only safely but also comfortably. Having the know-how to build the shelter is critical. Having a good knife can make building the shelter quick and easy.—by James Morgan Ayres 

Shelter framework ready for thatching with available material.Author’s note: The shelter in the photos using pine boughs was built in a national park, not a true wilderness area. We were required to “leave no trace” and return everything as it was. Therefore, we did not thatch the roof nor build up the floor with boughs and leaves as described in the text, as you would in a survival situation.

My associate and I used and evaluated four very different knives to construct two survival shelters. The review knives fall into two categories. The Mora and Condor both have ‘Scandi’ grinds and are economical. The Bark River and Fallkniven have convex grinds and are priced like the premium knives they are. Covering shelter framework with pine boughs.

CONDOR BUSHCRAFT

The Condor Tool & Knife Bushcraft Basic Camp Knife has a comfy wood handle, a 4-inch blade of 1075 carbon steel with a lot of belly, and a full tang. When driven into a tree it was strong enough for a 200-pound guy to do a pull-up on; we tried it, no problem. The belly of the black-epoxy-powder-coated blade proved its worth in general use, but a little more tip would have been welcome. In knife design everything is a compromise and this is a good one. The welted leather sheath holds the El Salvador-made knife securely and is unusually nice for a package in this price range ($34.98 MSRP).  Bark River Aurora illustrating an efficient push cut on a sapling.

IMG_0316BARK RIVER AURORA

The Bark River Aurora ($239 MSRP) is Bark River honcho Mike Stewart’s personal design for an all-around bushcraft knife. The American-made fixed blade displays excellence in design and use. The convex blade of A2 tool steel provides easy, controllable push cuts, supports the edge for batoning, gets into a cut aggressively, and has a centerline point for precise control. The handle is ergonomically contoured, does not slip and is comfortable in hard use. The balance is so good and the 9.5-inch knife feels so lightweight and quick that it seems to weigh less than the specs (6 ounces) would indicate. The pouch-type leather sheath is handsome, secures the knife well, carries comfortably and has a loop for a firesteel.

I suspect the Aurora has a reserve of strength that we did not come close to tapping in our review. Though not billed as one, I think the Aurora is an excellent choice for a wilderness survival knife. IMG_0305Condor Bushcraft makings shavings for a fire.

MORA BUSHCRAFT

Made in Sweden, the Mora Bushcraft Survival Knife ($57.95 MSRP) comes with a firesteel and diamond sharpener—both valuable tools—in a composition sheath. The thick, 4.25-inch blade sacrifices nothing in slicing and wood-shaving ability. It has a good, usable point and is strong enough for batoning. The handle is very comfortable. The knife popped out of the sheath, which was worn on a belt, while we were jumping over a log. A cut or the loss of the knife could have resulted.

FALLKNIVEN PHK

Fallkniven markets its Professional Hunter (PHK) as “one of the best hunting knives in the world.” It is also a very good all-purpose bushcraft and survival knife. The convex grind and long, curved edge combine to make a strong 5-inch blade of 3G steel that just wants to cut. It batons well, makes good push cuts and snap cuts efficiently on small branches. It would even do a little light chopping, though no knife this size (9.4 inches overall) can be an efficient chopper. The PHK’s nonslip Thermorun™ thermoplastic handle is comfortable in any grip, even during hard use.IMG_0181

Made in Japan, the knife offers a choice of a leather or Zytel® sheath. I much prefer the leather one since the Zytel sheath must be snapped to secure the knife, as we learned when the knife fell from the unsnapped sheath while we were running. MSRP: $470.

HOW THEY FARED

In general, we found the knives with the Scandi grinds to be somewhat better for fine woodwork, such as making fuzz sticks, while the convex-ground blades cut more efficiently and with less drag in deep cuts. All the knives’ handles were comfortable and did the job. On the other hand, each knife had its own character and pros and cons.

The Bark River was everyone’s all-around favorite, and if there had been a prize for most handsome, it would have won. The Fallkniven displayed the high level of function for which the brand is known, and clearly had enough reserve strength to serve as an urban destruction tool. The standard Mora is a good all-around bushcraft blade at a very low price. It is a bit stronger than other Mora models we have seen, and the inclusion of a firesteel and diamond sharpener produces a very nice package. However, the sheath needs work—otherwise you had better use duct tape to secure the knife, as we did. The Condor brings a welcome alternative to the bargain-priced market and stands on its own merits as a strong, efficient choice for the bush.

The premium-priced Bark River and Fallkniven exhibit higher-quality construction and did almost everything better than the less expensive Mora and Condor. Nonetheless, the difference was a matter of degree. All would serve to build a shelter and produce firewood, and maybe save your life.

8 Amazing Additions To Any Knife Book Library

One thing that humble knifemakers find difficult to do at times is to express pride in their work. It’s the same thing with we knife editors and publishers. But when you look at these eight knife books that F&W Media has put out over the past few years, they’re not only impressive as a whole, but each individual title is clearly an example of quality work.

If you were interested in knifemaking and started with the two books Bladesmithing With Murray Carter and Knifemaking With Bob Loveless, you’d be well ahead of the game and your peers. Add in BLADE’s Guide To Making Knives, 2nd Edition, and suddenly you’re learning the craft from such knifemakers as Don Fogg, John Lewis Jensen, Tim Zowada, Allen Elishewitz, Vince Evans, Rick Dunkerley and Kevin Hoffman. Are you kidding me?! And how many of you have NOT heard of Wayne Goddard? His book The Wonder Of Knifemaking, 2nd Edition is a must-have for any knife book library.u1059_500px_72dpi_1 v0802 W1852 W5865 X3269 Z4387 Z7240 Z7241

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If custom or handmade knives are your thing, the 33rd Edition of the Knives annual book, Knives 2013, will blow you away with full-color photography, feature articles written by the world’s best knife writers and a complete directory of custom knifemakers. Another sweet, full-color, gorgeous coffee-table book is Spirit Of The Sword by Steve Shackleford. It takes you on a trip from historic to modern swords and back again.

For knife collectors, you can’t go wrong with a book devoted entirely to Case Knives, the most collected brand in the world. Check out Collecting Case Knives by long-time collector, expert, accumulator and investor in everything Case, Steve Pfeiffer. And if after all that, you’re ready to design your own knives, or just need inspiration from over 100 classic knife designs, be sure to put in your pre-order for the brand-new, soon to hit bookshelves and stores everywhere 101 Knife Designs by none other than Murray Carter.

Admittedly, that’s one impressive knife book lineup, and would make any knife enthusiast’s library complete!

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