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Nothing Foul Or Fishy About These Bird And Trout Knives

Reuben Bolieu
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Nothing Foul Or Fishy About These Bird And Trout Knives

Know what they are, how to use them and how well they perform.

A bird and trout knife is a compact, fixed blade designed for hunters and anglers to process small game and fish, such as squirrels, rabbits, birds and trout. The knives are known for their portability and convenience, as they can easily fit into a backpack or pocket. The name is derived from the knife’s popularity among outdoor enthusiasts who require a reliable tool to assist them in their hunting or fishing activities.

When choosing a hunting or fishing knife, there are a few key factors to consider. First and foremost, the blade material is essential. To ensure optimal performance and longevity, your blade should be crafted from high-quality stainless or carbon steels. Equally important is the blade design; a thin, flexible drop- or trailing-point shape will allow for easy filleting and deboning, and precise cuts and slices. The handle should also be comfortable and ergonomic, with a good grip and balance.

Bird and Trout Knife and Sheaths
The sheaths are simple affairs, usually made from leather with a belt loop. The Exodus 3 has a Kydex sheath (right) made for scout carry.

A secure and durable sheath is a must-have. Some even feature a thumb lock to prevent accidental slips. Remember these factors for a trusty tool that you will keep by your side for years to come.

Case Mini Finn

Case Mini Finn cuts chicken
A bird always in season is the chicken. The Case Mini Finn sliced through dense breast and also onions and peppers for chicken kabobs, one of the author’s favorites.

The small knife in the Case leather hunter two-knife hunting set is the Mini Finn, sold separately. It’s a durable, reliable fixed blade for outdoors, hunting and hiking. The rugged knife features a 3.13-inch clip-point blade and polished leather handle for a secure grip. Blade steel is Tru-Sharp™ stainless, Case’s version of 420HC. The knife is ideal for small game.

EVALUATION: The blade was sharp from the get-go. Small and agile, the knife and its concave-ground blade proved perfect for the tasks it was dealt. A section about 1 inch long on the spine has subtle ridges for purchase if that’s how you like to grip a knife.

Mini Finn making feather stick
Making a feather stick was a snap with the Mini Finn.

The blade quickly sliced the only bird in season—chicken—for kabobs in the cabin. When making tent stakes the blade sliced through green witch hazel with authority. The handle is a hidden gem, paying homage to the traditional stacked-leather grip. Holding it feels like a throwback to the early 1900s Finnish style. The knife has a decent finger guard and a grip for three fingers. However, when the Mini Finn is held in a sideways or chest-lever grip, the buttcap feels a bit awkward.

A simple leather sheath completes the package. It sports a drain hole and can be worn on a thin belt or as a neck knife. The sheath is basic—nothing new under the sun—but why change a good thing? The Mini Finn is easily the best buy of the test quartet.

Case Mini Finn Specs
Blade Length: 3.13”
Blade Steel: Tru-Sharp™ Stainless
Blade @ Thickest: .062”
Blade Finish: Mirror polished
Scales: Leather
Weight: 2.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.5”
Sheath: Leather
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $82.99

ESEE CR2.5

ESEE CR2.5 excels at woodcraft
Designed for small game, birds and fish, the ESEE CR2.5 excels at woodcraft, too. The 90-degree spine scrapes tinder and a ferro rod, while the sharp edge effortlessly shaves feather sticks.

The ESEE CR2.5 is a little bird-and-trout-style knife designed by Cody Rowen of Rowen Manufacturing. It features a sturdy 1095 carbon steel blade with a black-oxide-stonewashed finish and ESEE logo. It is lightweight and easy to carry. The handle is available in Micarta® or G-10, providing a comfortable and secure grip.

Evaluation: This slick little cutter is an excellent tool for fishing, small game hunting and general woodcraft. The blade is flat ground and has a sharp 90-degree spine that can be used to scrape tinder with a ferro rod. During a survival class in Alabama, it was used to carve feather sticks and scrape fine wood shavings for a fire. Additionally, it proved handy for skinning squirrels.

Butchering with the CR2.5
The CR2.5 makes butchering effortless, especially for small, delicate game like birds and trout—and squirrels.

The handle has a comfortable grip for three to four fingers. With use, it will develop a patina similar to the blade. ESEE offers the grip in orange G-10 and Micarta. A leather pouch-style sheath, which can be used as a necker due to its light weight, keeps the knife secure and safe. There’s no drain hole on this one but it has a generously sized belt loop.

Paired with a chopper, the CR2.5 will definitely get it done. It takes third place among the test bunch as the best buy for the money.

ESEE CR2.5 Specs
Designer: Cody Rowen
Blade Length: 2.5”
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Rockwell Hardness: 55-57 HRC
Blade @ Thickest: .125”
Blade Finish: Black oxide stonewashed
Scales: Micarta® or G-10
Weight: 2.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.25”
Sheath: Leather pouch
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $143.50

TOPS Knives Bird and Trout Knife (BTK)

TOPS BTK bird and trout knife
The TOPS BTK excels at delicate work like scoring salmon skin and scaling. The slight upsweep helps ensure the tip doesn’t penetrate anything it shouldn’t.

Allen Jensen, also known as the Axeman, designed the TOPS Knives Bird and Trout Knife (BTK). With a stainless steel blade, a stonewash finish and a black canvas Micarta handle, the knife is perfect for camping, kitchen chores and other outdoor activities. The handle design allows multiple grip options, making it a great skinning tool for tough hides like bear and beaver.

Evaluation: Of the test bunch, the BTK is closest to a regular-size fixed blade. The blade shape’s slight upsweep lends itself well to food preparation, especially from a standing position. The blade came extremely sharp and performed flawlessly, especially processing food. I used the BTK to section a piece of fresh salmon and as a fish scaler. The upsweep didn’t tear any of the fillet in the process. The sharp edge scored the skin quickly, aiding in rendering super-crunchy-skin salmon.

Battoning with the BTK
The TOPS BTK is a superb EDC knife for the woods. Due in no small part to the blade’s healthy .13-inch thickness, it easily baton cut through green witch hazel

The handle features an ergonomic design, providing a secure grip when it’s gooey. The scales don’t extend to the blade, allowing greater versatility when choking up for skinning.

The choice of black leather for the sheath was wise, as it hides stains from food and game. The sheath is heavy duty and comes with an average belt loop, but no drain hole. The BTK is the priciest of the bunch but well worth it.

TOPS Knives BTK Specs
Designer: Allen Jensen
Blade Length: 3”
Blade Steel: 440C stainless
Rockwell Hardness: Cryo-treated to 58-60 HRC
Blade @ Thickest: .13”
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Black canvas Micarta®
Weight: 3.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.75”
Sheath: Black leather
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $175

White River Knife & Tool Exodus 3

Exodus 3 bird and trout knife
Using the Exodus 3, the author created an eight-notch try stick. He tested the knife’s ability to slice through green wood and found the narrow blade allowed easy maneuvering in small spaces.

The lightweight White River Knife & Tool Exodus 3, also known as Adventurecraft, is a small but robust survival knife. It’s the perfect size for bird and trout tasks, game dressing, food preparation and everyday carry.

Evaluation: Rather than the regular use as before, I put this one through a special gauntlet. The blade is tough. The thick spine culminates in a thin, flat grind—it’s a slicer. I wasted no time making an eight-notch try stick*. The blade’s geometry sliced through green wood like butter. I moved onto a survival fishing spear made from dry maple and the edge had no issues muscling through the seasoned wood. As a final coup de gras, I pounded the blade into an ammo canister. The blade remained unscathed and I was not surprised.

Exodus 3 to make a spear for fish
The author employed the Exodus 3 to make a spear for fish and frog gigging. The knife effectively balances between being a bird and trout knife and woods companion.

The handle is long enough for a four-finger grip yet is the narrowest of the test knives. Narrow handles can lead to fatigue by overcompensating when gripping. The scales are a “10” on the cool factor scale and provide a secure grip to back it up.

The Exodus 3 was the only test knife I could scout carry, keeping it out of the way when on the trail or in camp. Blade retention also was outstanding in the sheath and on the belt. The knife is the second best buy of the gang.

White River Exodus 3 Specs
Blade Length: 3.15”
Blade Steel: CPM S35VN stainless
Blade @ Thickest: .13”
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Canvas Micarta®
Weight: 2.3 ozs.
Overall Length: 7.2”
Sheath: Black Kydex
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $140

*In bushcraft, a try stick is a wooden stick carved with notches for use as a teaching aid.

More Outdoor Knives:

What Makes The Perfect Pocketknife?

Jason Fry
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What Makes The Perfect Pocketknife?

Decades ago in America the pocketknife was universal, with such patterns as the barlow, stockman, trapper and folding hunter well represented in the pockets of our fathers, grandfathers and great-grandfathers. But what about today, when the most likely pocketknife task is opening an Amazon box or trimming a string off a shirt? To find out not only what folks are carrying but why, BLADE® asked several industry insiders, “What makes the perfect pocketknife?”

Pocket Knife Funtionality

Let’s begin our hunt with a look at the past. Many BLADE readers know Joe Culpepper for his and wife Kristi’s knife handle material business, Culpepper & Co. For many years the Culpeppers have provided the knife industry with quality jigged bone, Sambar stag and other exotic materials. Joe is also a student of the slip-joint/traditional pocketknife in all its variations, and sells vintage knives under the business name of Old School Knife Works.

Pocketknife fish
A Case knife in damascus is in the traditional fish knife pattern, an early folding fillet knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“A good pocketknife first and foremost should perform and function reliably in the way it was designed,” he began. “Whether we’re talking about an electrician’s knife, fish knife, melon tester or trapper, the most important thing is that it does its job.”

Pocketknife melon tester
The melon tester pattern, here in an advertising knife configuration, almost always has a long, thin single blade. (Old School Knife Works image)

It has been a while since I used a knife to test a melon and Joe, too, was quick to acknowledge that many of the knife tasks of yesteryear have fallen by the wayside. “Frankly,” he admitted, “many of our pocketknives are simply just really nice box cutters.”

Pocket Knife Blade Size

Sticking with the nice box cutter theme, Knafs co-founder Ben Petersen added that he likes knives suited to the “dad life”—cutting apples cleanly without splitting them, opening boxes and whittling the occasional stick. “I’m not out to stab people,” he grinned. “For me, I think a 2.9-inch blade is perfect. Being under 3 inches keeps you safe from most restrictive knife laws, and it also is the perfect length for the finger test.” Ben went on to explain. “Most of the time when I cut, I put my index finger along the spine of the blade,” he noted. “I want the point of the blade right in the middle of my fingertip where it won’t cut me, but also gives me very precise control.”

Pocketknife medford
Medford Knife & Tool offers a range of titanium framelock folders, including the Praetorian T in CPM S35VN stainless blade steel. Weight: 9.3 ounces. Closed length: 4.9 inches. MSRPs start at $785.

Ben had a fun take on the perfect knife. “You know,” he reflected, “to a 12-year-old a gas station knife* is perfect. The perfect knife is totally different to everyone.” I smiled, remembering how much joy my 14-year-old son got from a rusty Bass Pro Shops framelock, missing a screw, that we found in a pasture on a dove hunt.  

Types Of Pocketknives

Most of us BLADE readers probably already have a good idea of what we like in a pocketknife. We know if we like small ones or bigger ones for everyday carry. We know the steel types we like, and whether we prefer a single or multi-blade. Joe offered some generalizations that match my experience.

Tradional

Hobo
Another older Case edition, the hobo knife features a blade and fork in a handy pocket-sized folding knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“As we get more into knives we tend to evolve into one of two categories, and they’re often correlated with age,” he reasoned. “The older generation tends to go for the more traditional slip joints with natural materials and carbon steel like their dad or grandad carried.” 

Joe considers some “classic” patterns and brands among his favorites, particularly the knives manufactured pre-1970 by the old American firms that mostly have gone out of business. “When you hold an old Schrade, Empire, Robeson or even a vintage Case you get a certain sense of nostalgia,” he noted.

Modern

Pocketknife hinderer
Jordan Wagner said the market is strong for high-quality USA-made titanium framelocks. Among those fitting the niche is the XM-18 3.5 flipper folder from Rick Hinderer Knives. Closed length: 4.75 inches.

As for the other category, Joe finds that younger folks tend to lean toward modern conveniences like pocket clips, modern steels and the more tactical types of knives like Benchmades. Being just a bit on the older side myself, as well as a bit of a traditionalist, I reached out to Jordan Wagner at DLT Trading for some thoughts about what makes a “perfect pocketknife” from a modern point of view. 

From an online merchant’s perspective, he said the market is very strong for quality USA-made framelocks. Titanium framelocks from makers like Rick Hinderer Knives, Chris Reeve Knives, Medford Knife & Tool and custom knifemaker Les George in the $400-to-600 price range continue to be popular. 

Knives in the modern category tend to have a few common characteristics. They feature premium blade steels. They all have some kind of one-hand-opening device such as a thumb stud, blade hole, flipper tab, etc. In general, these are mid-tech production or small batch customs made in shops as often as in factories. The next level below the mid-techs are the larger-batch manufactured knives by companies like Zero Tolerance, Spyderco and Benchmade. They’re often high quality, built in factories to tight tolerances and most often made in the USA.

Often within these and other brands are quality, lower-price-point knives made overseas as well, such as the production Demko AD 20.5 made in Taiwan. There are also quality knives made by China-based companies like Reate, WE and its sister brand CIVIVI and others.  

Case remains the leader in the current production of traditional patterns. But is it because there’s a demand by knife users for a two-blade trapper? Maybe, maybe not. The folks at Case know and understand that there are two big segments of customers that they serve—users and collectors—and they make patterns to please both groups.

The Perfect Pocketknife?

I think about “perfect” in terms of pragmatism. When was the last time the average knife user needed a hobo knife with a fork? Have you ever seen a titanium framelock melon tester? Culpepper has his finger on the vintage-slip-joint market, and his take is that the rise of social media has opened up huge new audiences to the vintage knives.

“The unique patterns always have a market and a strong following,” he said. “For the unique vintage knives there’s good demand, whether they’re made in the USA or even England or Germany.”

More On Pocketknives:

Knife Blade Repair: Bringing Old Blades Back To Life

Dexter Ewing
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Knife Blade Repair: Bringing Old Blades Back To Life

Practice the proper steps with the proper equipment and, most important, be safe and knife blade repair is a snap.

I have been fortunate enough to make not just one but two side hustles out of my knife hobby. First is the obvious—writing for BLADE® Magazine. Second is running a knife-and-tool sharpening service out of my garage, serving folks in my community and metro area with full-service sharpening on most cutting tools found in the home, workshop and garage. I have always had a strong interest in sharpening in general and have been practicing the skill for about as long as I have been into knives in general.

While I sharpen many knives and scissors, I also repair damaged knife blades. Those repairs include—but are not limited to—straightening bent blade tips, fixing severely damaged cutting edges, and regrinding new blade tips from broken ones. While sharpening is something I still enjoy very much and to a degree it remains fun work for me, it’s these minor repairs at customer request that I love doing. You can too provided you have the proper equipment and the desire to learn.

Knife with sharpening stone
In knife blade repair, carbon steel blades make the steps easy as they sharpen up quicker than stainless blades.

Before we get into the thick of blade repair, let’s discuss equipment. I run four Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpening machines—I keep one as a backup or deploy it as backup should I need to augment what I’m already running—plus a 1×30 single-speed belt sander, a “Harbor Freight special.” I do all my sharpening on this equipment.

I have used the Ken Onion Elite since the start of my sharpening service almost 10 years ago. I started out with just one Work Sharp. I added a second one awhile after that. The 1×30 came about from trying to revive a few totally dull butcher knives. In the process, I realized I needed another machine that would be in charge of hogging off material to get a quick starter edge that the Work Sharp machines could sculpt into a razor-sharp edge.

Profiling the blade
After profiling the basic shape of the new tip, the author uses the X65 belt of the Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener to further massage and fine tune it, as well as blend in the appearance of the blade spine at the tip to match the rest of the spine. 

Keep in mind that the Ken Onion Elite is not just a sharpener but also a variable-speed miniature belt sander as well, especially when you turn the unit around 180 degrees and work off the platen side. You can easily work on plastic, PVC, metal and wood. This is also how I regrind new blade tips, as well as fixing blade damage caused by hitting something solid and chipping the edge out. We will dive more into specifics in a bit. It’s important to note here that to do blade repairs of any sort successfully, you must have some sort of variable-speed, motorized, belt-sander-type machine.  

DEMO KNIFEThe demo knife is one a coworker on my day job gave me to refurbish. It is a vintage, carbon steel Case jackknife that saw a lot of use in a previous life. The blades were extremely worn down. Both tips were broken off. The main blade was resharpened so much that the cutting edge was a bit on the curved side. Both blades also had some dings in the edge as well. The owner wanted me to rehab the blades by regrinding new tips and sharpening them. I will take you through step by step on what I did and how it was done. WARNING! Please exercise caution when working with power tools such as belt sanders. Should you attempt such a task as outlined in this story, neither I nor BLADE is liable for any injuries that might occur as a result. 

Heat Management

Whenever executing such repairs on a knife blade, remember to not let the blade heat up or you can ruin the steel’s heat treat. Always keep a jar filled with water within arm’s reach of your machine and dunk the blade into the water every few seconds to keep it cool. Doing so will ensure that you will not overheat the steel. If working on a larger blade such as a machete, I recommend using a spray bottle filled with water. The blade is simply too long to dunk into a jar, so spraying it down every so often will help.  Something else that will help is to have a pair of cut-resistant gloves on hand and always wear them when handling the blade. The gloves usually have a textured coating on the gripping surfaces for the fingers and palms. This will help you hold the blade securely as well as keep your hands and fingers safe from accidental cuts. The gloves usually are inexpensive, less than $10, so there’s no excuse to not have a pair.

Where To Start Repairing A Blade

WARNING! Whenever faced with a blade-tip-rehab task, remember to sharpen the blade last. Why? Because you will be holding the blade as you regrind the new tip. This applies even if you’re wearing cut-proof work gloves.

Blade Tip

When regrinding tips, I always start with my 1×30 sander with an 80-grit Norton Blaze SG belt. It is the orange belt specifically engineered for knifemaking and removing steel. The 1×30 hogs off material and rough shapes the new blade tip.

Knife blade repair shaping the blade
The author reshapes the new tip on the pen blade using the 1×30 belt sander with an 80-grit Norton Blaze SG belt. 

I start by visualizing where the new tip is going to lie. I start at the uppermost point of the broken-off tip, usually on the blade spine side. I start grinding at that point and remove material to where eventually a new tip is created. As I grind it down, I also pay attention to the visual “flow” of the new tip and how it transitions to the rest of the blade spine. I may have to round off the harsh angle to blend it back into the spine. A lot of this is done by eye, making everything blend right in. The goal is to make the new blade tip look as though nothing happened.

Blade Shaping

After roughing out the new tip with the 1×30 belt sander, I begin to dial in the final shape of the new tip with the Ken Onion Elite. I have much more control at this juncture due to the less aggressive belt grit and the slower belt speed. I can finesse the new tip on, keeping a close eye on the evenness of the ground-down portion, making it parallel with the rest of the untouched blade spine.

chamfering the edges
The author carefully knocks off the sharp edge at the corner created by rough grinding the new tip.

Finish

After tweaking the new tip to final shape, I concentrate on the finished appearance of the ground portion by holding the knife almost vertical and sanding only on the ground portion, blending it in visually and removing the coarse-grit scratches with the 80-grit belt on the 1×30.

Chamfering And

When everything is blended in visually, the last step is to chamfer the ground portion and remove the crisp corners made by all the sanding. You’ve seen how blade spines have a small, rounded corner on both sides? You are essentially doing that here. Hold the blade at an angle and lightly touch the blade spine to the belt to cut the crisp corner down. Remember: you can always cut more later if needed. The key is to use a light touch and stop only when the corners are smooth to the touch and you don’t detect crisp edges. The result is a new blade tip that is highly functional but doesn’t look “factory,” though it will be awfully close.

Fixing An Uneven Blade

The main blade of the demo knife was worn away unevenly due to years of manual sharpening, so I straightened that out as well. Like the shaping of the new tip, I did the bulk of the straightening of the cutting edge on my 1×30 belt sander. I used a light touch on the belt—I cannot stress enough that it’s easier to grind cautiously—eyeing the straightness of the new cutting edge. Grind a bit then dunk the blade in water to keep it on the cool side.

Straightening the edge
After grinding the new tip on the main blade, the author uses the 1×30 belt sander to straighten the uneven cutting edge by evening it out back to straight. The 80-grit belt eats off material in a hurry. At this juncture the author eyeballs what is to be straight.  

Once I attained an even edge, it was time to grind the new edge. Straightening out the edge will cause a wide flat spot on it, so you have to grind the spot away evenly on both sides. Work diligently and carefully, and don’t forget to dunk the blade in water. With the smaller of the two blades, I repeated the same steps to even out the edge as there were some imperfections I wanted to remove also. As a result, I wound up starting a new edge on the small blade as well.

Once I ground the starter edges, I progressed to the Work Sharp machines to carefully sculpt the new final edges. This is the step where you bring the blades to life. The carbon steel blades make the steps easy as they sharpen up quicker than stainless blades. After the final sharpening of both blades, the result is a vintage pocketknife with a new lease on life sporting new tips and fresh cutting edges. 

Final Cut

Sharpening—transforming a cutting tool from dull to razor sharp in a few minutes—is very therapeutic. Toss in creating new blade tips on top of that and the combination is undeniably very satisfying. If you carefully follow these steps, you too can renew any knife blade with a broken tip. And it doesn’t have to be a pocketknife. I’ve ground new tips on tactical folders and karambits, too. Just follow the same steps outlined here. In fact, larger knives are probably easier because there is more to hold onto while working on them. If you have the equipment and the desire to renew and rehab knife blades, give it a try.

Final repaired knife
The end result is a demo knife with two sharp points and two sharp edges.

It is also possible to use a regular belt sander like mine to do all the shaping steps. Be sure to have an assortment of belts of various grits at your disposal. You will want to change to the finer grits to finesse your work. I recommend using only a 1×30 given the size and width of belt. Again, you can find an inexpensive 1×30 at Harbor Freight Tools for around $50. Who knows, you might even find some other uses for it outside of blade repair.

Knife blade repair can be very satisfying. And because you are working with knives as well as power tools, please exercise the utmost caution and pay attention to what you are doing to prevent serious injury.

Have fun and good luck!

Hone Your Knife Sharpening Knowledge:

First Look: Bear OPS Unveils the Double Clutch IV

Elwood Shelton
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First Look: Bear OPS Unveils the Double Clutch IV

Bear OPS introduces the 4 ½” Double Clutch IV. An out-the-front automatic engineered to meet the demands of EDC carry.

Bear OPS has been on a roll in 2024 with a couple of drops early this year. However, its most recent introduction is perhaps its most intriguing, if for no other reason than it’s an automatic—and those are always interesting. Especially when it’s a pocket-friendly OTF, such as the Double Clutch IV, priced right to make it a viable EDC option you won’t be afraid to scratch the paint on.

Don’t get me wrong, the $290 price tag is still steep for many, but measured against the rest of the out-the-front market the knife comes in competitively priced. And Bear OPS hasn’t skimped in making a fairly rough-and-tumble option. Particularly opting for good ol’ D2 steel for the Double Clutch IV’s 2.5-inch blade and aircraft-grade aluminum for the handle. For those not in the know, D2 is a long-used knife material—a high-carbon tool steel, with both good wear resistance and toughness, as well as respectable corrosion resistance. Arguably there are new options with better qualities, but D2 still holds its place.

As to the blade profile, Bear OPS offers two options, tanto and drop point. In both cases, the blades are straight-edged but have some nice points that accentuate each design. The drop point boasts a wide belly, giving it plenty of slicing surface. While the tanto has a fairly sharp, but abbreviated tip, which should make it a puncturing pro.

Double Clutch IV Drop Point

The Double Clutch IV’s action has a crisp deployment, facilitated by an understated—yet functional—thumb slide. It’s just about the right size for the small knife, not protruding so much as to cause an errant fire, but prominent enough that you won’t fumble to get the knife into action.

The knife boasts aluminum milled handles that not only enhance its toughness but also contribute to its ergonomic design. With grip ridges for added traction, these handles provide a comfortable and secure grip in any situation, ensuring optimal control even when wearing gloves.

Despite its robust construction, the Double Clutch IV remains remarkably concealable, seamlessly integrating into your everyday carry apparel. Whether tucked away in a pocket, duty belt, or plate carrier, this knife remains discreet yet readily accessible, ready to defend and protect at a moment’s notice. And at a scant 3.3 ounces, it won’t bog you down.

Oh yeah, it also comes outfitted with a pocket clip for tip-down carry and a lanyard hole, a slick feature that might help get the knife into the fray.

Double Clutch IV Specs
Blade Styles: Tanto, Drop Point
Blade Material: D2 Tool Steel
Handle Material: Aircraft Aluminum w/grip ridges
Rockwell: 59-61
Closed Length: 4 1/2″
Edge: 2-1/2″
Weight: 3.3 oz.
Extras: Automatic, Pocket Clip provides for Tip-Down Carry, Lanyard Hole
MSRP: $290

Check Out Our Knife Reviews:

Neo-Slippies: Not Your Granddad’s Slip Joint Knives

Abe Elias
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Neo-Slippies: Not Your Granddad’s Slip Joint Knives

Tradition meshes with modern in today’s new-age factory slip joint knives.

Like all tools, slip-joint pocketknives have seen their own evolutionary journey. In the olden days there were quality tools and then there were ones produced to be a bit more affordable, yet they still had their utility. These days many people buy knives for their utility, and I would say a number buy them for what I call the “Gucci factor.” As times change what’s considered attractive changes too, and, of course, makers leave their marks with their own innovations.

This time we’re not only going to test the latest in factory slip joints but also examine how companies and designers are innovating the age-old design to ensure it’s useful enough for the user and pretty enough for the collector. I took them all for a spin by shoehorning them into my everyday carry (EDC) rotation. The results are revealing.

CRKT Forebear

Forebarer's nail nick
CRKT Forebear

A couple of things update the CRKT Forebear. The first is the modified wharncliffe blades of 12C27 stainless steel. They’re not too big of a departure from the traditional style but still enough to make you notice. They are streamlined with an aggressive tip. Second is the use of a streaked-red-and-black G-10 handle. Unlike using texture to add dimension like, say, in a jigged material such as bone, the handle has two contrasting colors instead.

The knife is in a two-blade configuration—small and large wharncliffes—designed by custom maker Darriel Caston. The blades remind me of those on German chip-carving knives. Such blades are excellent for detail work and chores at which utility-style blades excel. They are flat ground and have long nail nicks that follow the spine.

I must say I was disappointed with the out-of-the-box finished edges on the blades. They were very uneven. One side had a larger micro bevel than the other. Machines do the great majority of the work creating the parts of a factory knife. In the end, though, the final edge is most often applied by hand. Before getting full use out of the knife I had to even out the bevels.

CRKT Forebarer slip joint
A handle closeup gives you a good idea of the depth the two-colored G-10 scales bring to the Forebear. At 3.43 inches closed, it’s a nice size for the watch pocket on your jeans.

Again, fit and finish was a bit of a disappointment, especially coming from CRKT. I have come to expect great value from the finishes on the company’s knives. Both scales exhibited shaping flaws and were left unpolished in spots, leaving an uneven appearance.

I actually like the design. It has great potential for everyday use with the two wharncliffes. It needs some work as mentioned on the edges. With a user knife it’s easier to overlook some fit-and-finish errors. After all, knives become better looking with familiarity as enthusiasts grow attached to their EDCs. As for the edge, it’s very fixable but it should come ready to use out of the box.

Boker Plus Koteyka

Boker Koteyka
The file-style work on the spine of the Koteyka breaks up the profile and gives the blade some character.

The Boker Plus Koteyka is a stylized clip-point-blade folder. The handle is jigged black G-10. The blade is flat-ground D2 tool steel and opens via a nail nick. Closed length: 3.5 inches. I really like that Boker Plus sends the Koteyka in a box wrapped in wax paper like the old-time knives. On the back of the blade is some machining that resembles filework.

Out of the box it cut very well after I stropped it to bring it to the crazy sharp level. The finish on the G-10 has machining marks for a rustic look. One day I will end up hitting it on a buffing wheel. With a high luster polish I think it would be killer. Granted, the MSRP is only $69, so I’m just expressing my own thoughts on its presentation. Texture wise it can be a little rough on your hand, so that is another reason why I will buff it. The blade action and spring tension are good. It is a great little pocketknife update. I look forward to using it further.

Lionsteel Bestman

Lionsteel Bestman slip joint
Lionsteel Bestman

In the Bestman, Lionsteel offers a pocketknife with all the traditional elements, though it’s the presentation and materials that give it the updated look. The folder has three choices of blade configuration: clip and spear points and a combination two-blade set up of clip point and wharncliffe. I received the clip point for the test. Blade steel: M390 stainless. Closed length: 3.75 inches.

The Bestman features two sets of bolsters with a decorative groove. Handle materials come in an array of natural or synthetic materials, from olive wood to carbon fiber. I chose the canvas Micarta® for the rugged look. Lionsteel kept the design blocky while smoothing over the edges to avoid hot spots. None of the metal on the knife is polished. It has a satin finish, as did some of the older high-end brands in which one side of the blade would be polished and the other side hand rubbed. In place of pins are Torx fasteners. Even the execution of the grind on the clip point departs from the traditional by keeping all the lines crisp.

The blade opens via a nail nick. The blade action is smooth yet has a definite half stop. The spring tension is dead on. I must say I am impressed and like it. It came right out of the box ready for work. The materials and design will last a lifetime of chores.

Heretic Jinn

Heretic JInn
Heretic JInn

At first, adding the Jinn by Heretic Knives to the review was iffy at best for me. I saw it on the company’s website and I somewhat reluctantly included it. To me, a pocketknife design from Heretic is akin to having a thrasher band perform Simon & Garfunkel. Nothing personal, I just thought Heretic couldn’t pull it off. In the end, though, I am the fool standing there clapping after the rest of the audience has stopped.

The sheepsfoot blade of CPM MagnaCut stainless with a combination serrated/plain edge has great application for EDC use. It can cut everything from soup to nuts. For style Heretic includes a false grind. The knife opens via a long nail nick at the blade’s back half. If I had one criticism it would be the position of the nail nick. There would be a greater advantage in opening the blade if the nick were farther away from the pivot point. Just pinching the blade closer to the tip allows for a smoother pull-on opening.

Heretic Jinn clip
The Jinn is the only slip joint reviewed with a pocket clip.

A half stop enhances user safety and the knife is finished off in carbon fiber scales with a trim, low-profile pocket clip. The clip is my next issue. It is too tight to easily clip onto floppy and thick pocket rims. The design is such that you really don’t want to bend the clip, either.

All else considered, the Jinn really surprised me. It is a great worker. Overall, its looks fit right in with any modern one-hand-opening pocketknife. Closed length: 3.8 inches.

A CERTAIN ROMANCE
Slip joints have a certain romance to them. On a base level the designs have tons of utility, and updating their appearances helps keep consumers interested. Of course, there will always be the ongoing love affair with the traditional designs. Many wouldn’t have it any other way.

More On Pocketknives:

Give It Up for Pocketknives

Steve Shackleford
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Give It Up for Pocketknives

The simple pockeknife still holds its own after all these years.

Whether a four-figure custom slip joint, an inexpensive factory keychain knife or what you, if it’s a knife that carries in a pocket, it is a pocketknife. Pocketknives have a colorful heritage, one that not only represents some of the best cutting tools mankind has ever produced but at times has been on the right side of history as well.

Some of the first known folding knife designs date to the Roman era, if not earlier. However, the fact many Romans wore togas or tunics—most if not all of which were pocketless—precluded most of them from carrying pocketknives. If not, Brutus and his co-conspirators likely would’ve used pocketknives instead of the daggers they employed to dispatch Julius Caesar. Daggers suffered centuries of bans afterward and continue to be targeted by misguided anti-knifers to this day. If pocketknives could talk, the feeling here is they would probably thank the pocketless togas and/or tunics.

Fast forward to Sheffield, England, where the Masters of the London Cutlers Guild listed members as early as the 16th century. The pocketknives made in Sheffield for centuries remain some of the most remarkable specimens ever. Meanwhile, a number of the Sheffield makers came to America in the 19th century. Their influence helped jump start the U.S. pocketknife industry in the 1800s and aided in revolutionizing it in the 20th century. From the barlow to the stockman and scores of other patterns, many Americans carried pocketknives daily for almost every chore under the sun. That tradition was passed down from generation to generation and became an American institution.

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A sampling of Stan Shaw’s pocketknives with richly fileworked blade spines and backsprings. Look close and you can see the Maltese crosses for which Stan was so well known. (image by Carl Whitham, Sheffield)

The most famous of Americans carried pocketknives, including presidents such as George Washington and Abraham Lincoln. Acting icon John Wayne used pocketknives in some of his movie roles, including as Jacob McCandles in Big Jake and Capt. Nathan Brittles in She Wore a Yellow Ribbon, to name but two. Even Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts had pocketknives made expressly for them, with the latter holding the distinction of being among the first if not the first sporting knives designed expressly for the feminine gender.

Closer to home, the argument can be made there would be no BLADE Show without pocketknives, as the two men who created the show—BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® members Bruce Voyles and Jim Parker—parlayed their love of traditional pocketknives into long cutlery careers that helped make knife collecting something worth doing. Jim, Bruce and others were among many in the South who celebrated the early trading of pocketknives on the courthouse steps of local communities, and eventually helped capture the imagination of knife enthusiasts everywhere.

Pocketknives are not just a British/American phenomenon but a worldwide one. The navaja of Spain, the Opinel of France, German models of many stripes, and perhaps the most famous pocketknife of all, the Swiss Army knife (SAK) of Switzerland, are but four examples.

Two of the leading knife genres of the past half century, tactical folders and EDCs, owe much of their appeal to being pocketknives. In fact, pocketknives have provided the platform for the introduction of some of the most influential advancements in cutlery, including assorted opening and locking mechanisms, hi-tech materials and knifemaking methods, and much more.

Give it up for pocketknives. Without them, cutlery would be nowhere near—in fact, about half—the vibrant worldwide industry it is today.

More On Pocketknives:

OKNIFE Beagle Review: Nice Doggy

Msg Kim Breed (ret.)
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OKNIFE Beagle Review: Nice Doggy

The OKNIFE Beagle emerges from testing as one well-bred blade.

The Beagle by OKNIFE is a mid-sized folder that rides great in a pocket—big enough to handle most cutting chores but small enough to be comfortable to carry every day. As a heavy knife user, I always carry. It has to ride comfortable and perform or I won’t consider it. The Beagle was on my side for 30 days with no carry issues. Check the first block. Now for the performance side.

The Beagle was very sharp out of the box. A quick paper slice with 20-pound bond copy paper proved it. Via a push cut it sliced quite smoothly with no snags or tears. The handle shape made for easy control of the width of slices.

Next up: single-walled cardboard. The Beagle made zipping noises during the push cuts. Again, it was very controllable on the slice widths, nice and aggressive on every pass, with no snags or tears.

A scrap piece of 8-ounce leather was next. I sliced it similarly to the cardboard to see if I could get the same zipping noises. The Beagle didn’t disappoint. It zipped and crunched during every cut. I really liked the forcefulness in the leather cutting.

The knife made thin, even slices in the 8-ounce leather. The handle shape aided in controlling the thickness of each cut.

Using another piece of leather, I did some skiving. The knife made thin, even cuts. As noted, the shape of the handle really aids in controlling the thickness of the cuts. The blade was smooth and uncompromising on each slice.

I grabbed some scrap pine and whittled a bit. The Beagle produced excellent curlicues, taking deep bites. The notches on the blade spine are just grabby enough to keep your thumb in place without abrading it. There were no hot spots on the handle.

The Beagle took deep bites in producing excellent curlicues. The notches on the blade spine are just grabby enough to keep your thumb in place without abrading it.

STRENGTH TEST

Baton cutting with a linerlock folder is not recommended but I did it anyway. On the other hand, it is a serious strength test for the lockup and liner. After several whacks there were pine pieces all over the work bench. The lockup stayed at 100 percent on every whack. The handle was comfortable throughout.

Baton cutting with a linerlock folder is not recommended but the author did it anyway. On the other hand, it is a serious strength test for the lockup and liner. After several whacks the lockup stayed at 100 percent, though the spring does appear to engage the tang too far to the right (inset). Upon later examination, however, the spring had returned more toward the left, possibly due to repeated opening/closing of the knife.

It was time to break out the half-inch sisal. The Beagle made 192 crunching cuts in the rope. I was surprised at how comfortable the handle was during cutting—not a single hot spot, warm spot or liner pinch. I’m very pleased OKNIFE paid attention to this detail. Job well done!

The Beagle made 192 crunching cuts in the half-inch sisal rope. The handle was comfortable throughout—not a single hot spot, warm spot or liner pinch.

The last test for the edge and lock was chopping into a whitetail deer antler. Thirty hard whacks later and the edge had no damage. The lock was just as tight as when I started—100 percent.

In the final test, the Beagle chopped the antler 30 times with no edge damage. Verdict: heat treat spot on!

CHANGES

Maybe a few grooves in the handle for added grip?

BLADE GRADE

With its comfortable handle and sharp blade, the Beagle is a great folder for everyday carry.

OKNIFE BEAGLE Specs

Blade length: 33/8”
Blade steel: 154cm stainless
Blade grind: Flat
Blade finish: Satin
Blade pattern: Harpoon
Blade opener: Thumb stud
Handle: Green canvas Micarta®
Lock: Linerlock
Liners: Stainless
Pocket clip: Yes
Weight: 4 oz.
Closed length: 4.25”
Country of origin: China
MSRP: $79.95

More Knife Reviews:

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