Japanese blades have enchanted and endured for centuries with no end in sight.
The lure of the Eastern style has captivated cutlery artisans for centuries, and interpretations of it remain alive and well, blending tradition seamlessly with modern techniques and materials while staying true to their roots in Japanese culture. While there is plenty of skill required and the artist’s eye lends its perspective, custom knifemakers continue to produce wonderful examples in fusions of blade, tsuka (handle) and furniture—and they are quick to explain the reasons why.
Denis Tyrell
“Japanese blades have both an elegance and a mystique to them,” said maker Denis Tyrell of Livermore, California. “They have subtle curves that really appeal to me. They are also very complex to build and get right—I’m still striving for a higher standard.”
Setting out on a creative path that brought modern and traditional methods together, Tyrell made great strides toward that standard in his Silver Moon katana. “I appreciate all the complex fittings on these swords, so I try to keep to that mix,” he noted. “The blade is where I step out a bit more into the modern, using damascus steel and other techniques to really show it off.”
The result of Tyrell’s effort succeeds in highlighting the 29-inch damascus blade and handle wrapped in faux leather. The fittings are silver, while the guard is mild steel with silver inlay. The blade presents something of a surprise with its damascus cladding over silver with a solid core of 80CrV2 carbon steel. To preserve the integrity of the damascus, the blade was not heat treated. The sword is 40 inches overall and the blade grind is convex.
“The melting point of silver is 1,763 degrees Fahrenheit,” Denis added, “so it’s challenging to forge that together with the damascus cladding and core without melting it. I also found getting the fittings perfect so a single pressure-fitted peg will hold it all together with no slack to be a challenge.” Denis said the Silver Moon sold for $9,500. The owner has invested in an authentic Japanese-style sword that not only exhibits great talent but also pays tribute to the historical appeal of those produced in the past.
Drew Lininger
Drew Lininger of Belgrade, Montana, honed his knifemaking skills further with his Tanto Kwaiken, a stylized version of the small, single-edged dagger carried by the Samurai for close self-defense.
“I love slimmer, more streamlined knives, and the Japanese style really appeals to me with its simple lines that make for a complex knife,” he related. “I also like how you can scale the designs easily. You can basically make the same knife in multiple sizes without having to change anything but the dimensions.”
The Tanto Kwaiken has a 4-inch blade and 8.25-inch overall length. Drew decided on AEB-L stainless blade steel complemented with a handle of jade-colored G-10, its fibers presenting a pleasant textured look approaching the ricasso. The guard is Grade 5 titanium. The most difficult aspect of the knife’s production was succeeding with the precision required for the numerous angles and lines to meet at the same apex without variation on all sides of the handle.
One departure from tradition is the blade grind. “It is a 6-inch hollow grind,” Drew commented, “definitely not standard for traditional kwaikens. I had originally seen the full hollow grind on some folding knives and wanted to try it on a kwaiken.”
Jim Perkins
Jim Perkins of Garden City, Kansas, built a superb wakizashi at 28.25 inches overall with a 19-inch damascus blade consisting of 1,724 layers of 1095 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels. The stunning blade is accented with copper habaki (collar), seppa (spacer) and tsuba (guard), and a handle of gleaming Japanese maple. Jim’s price for a similar sword would be around $2,500, and he likely would relish the opportunity to take another stab at such a piece.
“For me, the appeal of the Japanese style is in the history and the flow of the traditional blades,” he offered, “along with challenging myself to make the symmetry of mine as aesthetically pleasing to the eye as possible. If you look at traditional Japanese blades, you see a natural beauty that has been a tradition of the master smiths who have made them. It is hard not to be inspired by their work.”
Giving a nod to his preference for modern materials, Jim also takes advantage of some conveniences in the shop. “Since I’m a bit older, the hydraulic press is invaluable,” he explained. “It saves my shoulder from the abuse hammering out the steel would inflict. That said, while I am working the steel I try to keep in my mind’s eye the process the masters might have used, and attempt to honor their traditions the best I can using modern materials and methods. Examples of this would be that I ‘bed’ the tang in the handle and my milgraining treatment to the tsuba.”
Jim describes the wakizashi as full takedown with the removal of the handle pin. He fits the tang to each side of the handle using a saya nomi, Japanese for scabbard chisel, made by Walter Sorrells. Afterward, Jim glues the handle sides together for fitting to the tang, applies petroleum jelly to the fittings and the tang, and fills the handle cavity with epoxy, which he allows to cure for approximately three hours.
From there he removes the handle from the tang, cleans off the petroleum jelly, and resets the handle in the tang to allow final setup. Jim works the tsuba with a hammer from the center toward the edge, and hammers a design into the material with a small ball-pein hammer. In this particular case, he finalized a textured finish on the engraving bench with a milgrain tool.
“I allow the copper tsuba, seppa and habaki to patina naturally through handling as opposed to using a chemical application,” Jim said, “and I would be remiss not to mention the meticulous requirements of prepping the steel for each forging session. Keeping the steel as pristine as possible for the next forging session to eliminate any forge welding failures is tremendously important. The discipline required to do this increases as the layer count goes up, but it is an absolute necessity to avoid disappointment in myself or the final product.”
Kieren McNeilly
Capitalizing on available media such as books and YouTube videos while also talking with other makers, Kieren McNeilly of Warwick, Queensland, Australia, stepped into Japanese-style knifemaking with optimism. “I highly recommend anyone thinking about making one to just go out and do the same,” he smiled.
McNeilly’s work is a reflection of other aspects of his life. “My house has touches of Japanese art all around, from Samurai masks to antique tsuba and more things not related to knives,” he said. “Japanese knives are simple, well-thought-out designs, all built for a purpose. I’m also a big fan of a satin or polished finish on a blade with contrasting forged texture, which is another common thing you see in Japanese knives. Same for the swords. All parts of the katana serve a purpose, from differential heat treatment of the blade to the ray skin down to the mekugi [pin] that holds it all together.”
McNeilly’s traditional style tanto is 16.5 inches overall with an 11-inch blade forged from W2 tool steel. The saya (scabbard) is buffalo horn and the handle is raw stingray hide. The latter did not go through any dyeing or tanning process, which keeps the material hard and stiff.
“Three areas of this knife gave me issues,” he related. “The first was the heat treatment when the water quench failed. Luckily, I had no cracks. The blade didn’t fully harden, so as an easy fix I went back through my normalization cycles, clayed the blade again and then quenched it in oil.
“The second issue was the constant attention needed to get the width and diameter of the handle and saya to match as closely as possible when sheathed, with perfect fit-up and zero gaps. Lastly was working with the raw stingray hide. The calcium nodules are extremely hard and make cutting the material difficult. The hide also has to be soaked in water to take shape around the handle.”
To solve the problem of gaps developing as the raw stingray hide dried, McNeilly used masking tape to add mass to the handle and then removed the tape to allow the hide to shrink to the proper position. “It left just enough space for the hide to shrink that last little bit,” he remembered, “and this still took me a few attempts to get it right.”
Using a combination of Japanese and Western methods and materials, Kieren achieved magnificent results. “I have not used tamahagane, a precious bloomery steel, and if I were to, I would make a point to use all traditional materials and more traditional techniques,” he concluded. “Synthetic materials like G-10 and Micarta® work great as substitutes for more traditional materials like bone or horn, although I love how horn and bone can add a lot of character to a piece.”