Pat Covert, Author at BLADE Magazine

Jantz Knife Supply: Providing Everything Required To Make Knives

Knifemaking

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February 19, 2024

Jantz Knife Supply: Providing Everything Required To Make Knives

Jantz is a crucial source for many who fashion knives.

For 58 years Jantz Knife Supply has met the needs of cutlery craftsmen of all stripes, from green behind the ears to on up in years, with everything needed to make knives. This includes specialty steels, handle components, sheath materials, hand tools and sanding supplies, as well as the heavy equipment for knifemaking.

What started as a small mom-and-pop gun supply outfit founded by Ken and Venice Jantz in 1966 is no less than a U.S.-based juggernaut in today’s cutlery industry. The Jantzes haven’t left their humble beginnings behind, though, so no customer job is too small for the venerable knifemaking supply company in the heartland of America, Davis, Oklahoma.

Company co-founder Ken Jantz works on a prototype for a new hollow-grinding fixture at the company facility.

Shanna Kemp oversees the marketing, financial and human resources for Jantz. She probably knows as well as anyone about the many specialty and other items available to the company’s legion of customers.
“Our goal is to provide everything knifemakers could need for their project,” she begins, “whether you’re a beginner looking for a new hobby or a custom knifemaker stocking your shop to get ready for the BLADE Show. One thing we really love is creating fixtures and tools to make knifemaking more accessible for every skill level.”

One of the company’s most popular new fixtures is the PDJ Knife Vise. “It’s handy for all levels of knifemakers as it allows you to drill perfectly perpendicular holes through your handle material” regardless of the material’s texture or unevenness, Shanna explains.
Jantz stocks an abundance of parts for assembling and enhancing knives of all types. “Our most popular products are our Corby rivets, Loveless bolts and metal round and bar stock,” Shanna enumerates. “Our customers love the quality of our materials as we source directly from reputable mills with consistent quality and do our cutting and machining in house. One of our other popular products is our handcrafted mosaic pins. Each pin design is meticulously hand assembled right here in Davis, Oklahoma.”

Jantz Steel Stock

Jantz offers a range of knifemaking equipment. An example is the JS750 perpendicular vise with drill press.

An outstanding blade is the heart of any knife and Jantz offers all kinds of stainless and high carbon steels. “We carry a variety of knifemaking steels to suit both forging and stock removal,” she states. “1095 and 80CrV2 are very popular carbon steels and CPM 154 is our most popular stainless steel.” She added that the damascus forged by Brad Vice’s Alabama Damascus is very popular because of the quality and solid price point for the company’s patterned-welded steel.

“For Jantz, steel and other metals have always had a long lead time since we source from a variety of mills in the U.S., Germany, Sweden, Brazil and others,” Shanna observes. “We have strong relationships with our suppliers, and they have worked with us to keep material moving forward even when lead times began to exceed a year.”

Jantz Knife Supply warehouse — No matter the material, component or tool for knifemaking, Jantz probably has it somewhere in one of its well-stocked aisles.

Fixed blades will never go out of style, Shanna opines, and the Jantz business model caters to the mindset that drives the knives’ popularity. “We find that fixed-blade makers tend to use both stock removal and forging in their blade design and development,” she states. “The television series Forged in Fire certainly increased the popularity of forging, but we still see about the same divide between stock removal and forging. Fixed blades designed for hunting and survival are top sellers for our custom knifemakers as well as our hobbyists. There’s something special about using a knife in the field during hunting season that you made yourself that really resonates with the knifemaking crowd.”

When it comes to heat-treating ovens, Jantz recommends Paragon kilns above all others. “Not only do they make a quality oven,” Shanna assesses, “but they have a variety of ovens designed for beginners to pros. Their customer service is top notch and Burt Flanagan, who represents Paragon’s knifemaking ovens, is a custom knifemaker, so he truly understands what knifemakers need.”

Jantz-Made Blades

Knife assembly kits such as the Caballero are a great way to learn the ins-and-outs of folding knives. Jantz offers over a dozen knife genres, from traditional slip joints to modern tactical fare.

For those wanting to get their feet wet in the cutlery world, Jantz offers a cornucopia of pre-made blades for virtually any niche of the market, including household cutlery. According to Shanna, many custom makers order beautiful stainless damascus in various patterns from Damasteel for their kitchen knives. “Our Jantz-made line of household cutlery is especially popular with customers,” she adds. “Our santoku, cook’s and paring blades are favorites of makers using pre-shaped blades for project knifemaking. All the Jantz-made blades are manufactured in our facility.”

Jantz offers an abundance of both knife blades and knife kits. These are designed not only for the novice and hobbyist, but for those who want to tailor special knives for sale. The Jantz website offers links aplenty to a wide range of genres in both folders and fixed blades. Need a fixed-blade hunter in damascus? No problem. Like a kit to learn the ins-and-outs of folding knives? There are over a dozen styles available, from traditional slip joints to modern tactical fare.

Providing fixtures such as the JS500 for slip joints that make knifemaking more accessible to hobbyists and makers of all levels is a specialty at Jantz Supply.

If there is an innovation on the horizon, Jantz Supply will be on top of it. “One of the many things we love about the knifemaking community is how open and sharing makers are with each other,” Shanna observes. “Want to learn something [another knifemaker] is doing? Just ask. You will rarely find someone not willing to share.”

That spirit and willingness to help is what has made Jantz an important part of the cutlery industry for going on six decades now.

More On Knifemaking:

D.I.Y. POWER HAMMER: DO YOU REALLY NEED ONE?
STAINLESS DAMASCUS: CHALLENGES IN FORGING
STROPPING: WHAT IT IS AND HOW IT’S ACCOMPLISHED
DIY ENGRAVING VISE OR BLOCK

Shop Dump: Murray Carter’s Tools Stick To His Knifemaking Roots

Pat Covert

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January 16, 2024

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Shop Dump: Murray Carter’s Tools Stick To His Knifemaking Roots

Carter’s training at the elbow of a Japanese master smith shows in his shop.

Ever since I was a young boy I have been fascinated with blades,” ABS master smith Murray Carter writes. “Why some blades would cut and others would not was a mystery to me that I felt compelled to solve.

“A chance encounter at age 15 with a karate instructor began my love affair with Japan. A trip to Japan, when I was 18 years old, led to an unexpected encounter with an amazing man, Sensei Yasuyuki Sakemoto, who I would come to learn was the 16th-generation Yoshimoto bladesmith and whose family custom forged samurai swords for some of Japan’s most influential feudal lords. My relationship with Sensei Sakemoto led to a unique six-year apprenticeship, and upon its completion, I was asked to continue on in the 420-year-old family bladesmithing tradition as the 17th-generation Yoshimoto bladesmith.”

Murray’s forging hammer is a 25-kilogram version of a Sakamoto-Shiki Japanese spring hammer. Japanese laminated steel is heated in a solid fuel forge and forged under the spring hammer with 800 to 1,000 individual hammer blows to achieve a blade that is very close to its final shape and thickness, and with extreme grain refinement.

Murray was off to the races. “I worked as a village bladesmith for 12 more years, constantly availing myself to other industry experts to glean what I could, and spent many long hours in the forge putting my newfound skills and knowledge to practice. I introduced my handforged Japanese kitchen knives to the Western market in June 1997 and achieved the ABS master smith rating in June 2001. In 2005, I moved to Oregon and have been busy plying my trade ever since.”

His shop is steeped in Japanese knifemaking history and his equipment reflects it. He begins with his forging hammer. “The Sakamoto-Shiki Japanese Spring Hammer is a 25-kilogram version,” Murray notes. “This particular hammer is the last-ever spring hammer to be manufactured by Sakamoto Ironworks in Tosayamadacho on the island of Shikoku, Japan. Blades are forged both hot and cold under this spring hammer. The 25-kilogram ram strikes the steel with enough kinetic energy to actually heat up the steel as it is being forged. One of our spring hammers has forged over 40,000 blades to date without breakage or malfunction.”

Next up is his rotating waterstone. “Keeping with traditional Japanese bladesmithing methods, handforged blades are quenched fully thick and then blade geometry is ground by hand on the rotating Japanese waterstone,” he explains. “When purchasing stones from Japan was no longer possible, Radiac Abrasives, Inc., from Salem, Illinois, stepped up and fabricated this stone for us.”

bending sticks — The mage-bou custom made ‘bending stick’ with slots of varying thicknesses is used to straighten hardened laminated blades. It can be made from most any hard material, including oak or Micarta®.

Murray’s forging hammer bears little resemblance to American fare. “The Japanese tagane hammer is made by brazing a carbide bit into a regular hammer,” he writes. “This is a specialized tool skillfully used to straighten bent homogenous steel knives after hardening. It is hammered into the concave side of an unwanted curve in a blade, and the carbide bit penetrates the surface of the metal and moves a tiny bit of steel in either direction, perpendicular to the length of the bit. Handforged saw blades before the days of disposable saw blades used this straightening technique heavily.”

For further blade straightening Carter uses a simple yet effective tool. “The mage-bou custom made ‘bending stick’ with slots of varying thicknesses is used to straighten hardened laminated blades,” he observes. “The bent blade is forced true via the lever and fulcrum effect. Care must be taken not to snap a stiffer blade by applying too much force.”

Sometimes it just takes experience and a good eye in lieu of hi-tech. “The brass hammer and wood stump are used to fine tune the straightening of blades after heat treatment,” Murray notes. “It’s probably the most-used workstation at Carter Cutlery. The convex side of a curve is placed face-up on the stump and judiciously hammered with the brass hammer. Examining by eye the effects on the blade after each single hammer blow is the most effective way to do it.”

Check Out More Of Tools Of The Pros:

Shop Dump: Where Dmitriy Popov Bangs Out His Kitchen Masterpieces

Knifemaking

Pat Covert

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January 2, 2024

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Shop Dump: Where Dmitriy Popov Bangs Out His Kitchen Masterpieces

Known for his custom kitchen knives, here are the tools Dmitriy Popov relies upon to craft his creations.

“I am not going to score any originality points for naming my belt grinder as the most important tool in the shop,” Dmitriy Popov begins with a smile. “I have had the pleasure of using a wide variety of grinders and the Wilmont TAG 101 is my favorite. Chris Williams, who builds it, is a knifemaker himself and it shows in the product. Also, Chris is only a message away in case you may need anything, not that you have to worry about it too much the way this machine is built.

Dmitriy’s 15-kilogram Anyang power hammer — Popov’s 15-kilogram Anyang power hammer “gets the job done in no time.”

“I have a large variety of tooling accessories that I use with the grinder—radius platens, flat platens, rotary plates, large and small wheels, as well as a surface-grinding attachment. I run the grinder off a dedicated Genesis VFD [Variable Frequency Drive], which enables me to control the speed.

“Next up is my Toolmex 1-horsepower disk sander,” Dmitriy continues. “It took me a little while to get to know this machine and to incorporate it into my workflow—but these days I would struggle to make a knife without it. My sander is hooked up to yet another VFD, which is shared between the disk sander and my second belt grinder through a switch. I can slow it right down and change the rotation direction.

“I primarily use a disk sander for two purposes. First, to thin out the knife behind the edge. I do this very carefully with the aid of water cooling in order not to generate any heat that would negatively impact heat treatment. Secondly, I use it to shape facets on my knife handles, which are mostly wa [Japanese-style octagonal] handles these days.”

His power hammer is a real game-changer.

“I used to hate forging as tendinitis in my elbow would flare right up and would take weeks to settle,” he explains. Before Popov moved his shop to a rural area, getting a power hammer was not an option due to the noise level it generates. “Needless to say is how much easier, quicker and more pleasurable my forging experience is now,” he writes. “The hammer is only a 15-kilogram Anyang but it gets the job done in no time.”

Dmitriy does his own heat treating with a Paragon KM24 Pro Heat Treat oven. “Quite a high-ticket item this one,” he notes, “a three-zone 415V/3P/15A unit which reaches temperatures of 1,100° C/2,012 F° in just 15 minutes. It has super precise temperature control front to back, which is so crucial for me in order to be able to squeeze out the most of each steel I work with.

When selecting his milling machine, Dmitriy wanted something solid and with enough vertical clearance. As a result, he opted for the Optimum MH28V. He also fitted it out with an Optimum DRO (Digital Readout at top left) and a motorized slide table.

“My milling machine is definitely underutilized in my workshop. When selecting the mill, I wanted something solid and with enough vertical clearance. The Optimum MH28V fit the bill. Machine and tooling is not cheap and I use it only for a couple operations, but it is a real time saver.”

Last but not least, Dmitriy expounds the virtues of his large workbenches.

DMITRIY POPOV's Honyaki Sujihiki Sakimaru — Dmitriy Popov specializes in custom kitchen knives such as his *Honyaki Sujihiki Sakimaru* in an 11.8-inch blade of differentially heat-treated W2 tool steel with hamon. The handle is stabilized spalted tamarind and ironwood. (SharpByCoop knife image)

“This seems simple but if you make knives, you know that you will end up using any horizontal surface available to you. I would say that one-third of my workshop floorspace (page 45) is taken up with workbenches which allow me to work on multiple projects at the same time, and stay organized and productive. I found that yellow-tongue flooring panel is a great workbench surface, and frames can either be built from timber or, alternatively, metal warehouse framing can be purchased from any hardware shop or Costco.”

Check Out More Of Tools Of The Pros:

Knife Sharpener: Top Choices To Keep Your Edge

Buyer's Guides

Pat Covert

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December 27, 2023

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Knife Sharpener: Top Choices To Keep Your Edge

More than mere knife sharpeners, these options are complete honing systems that keep your blades razor-sharp.

Many of you probably learned to sharpen knives freestyle on a carbide, ceramic or diamond stone that required setting the proper angle by guesswork. The problem with sharpening a knife freehand is that no matter how good you are, the angle can vary with each stroke.

Fortunately, knife sharpening systems these days are so advanced they can virtually eliminate human error. Among other features, the systems allow the user to preset the blade angle and lock it in so it never varies throughout the sharpening process. Of course, systems that “lock in” sharpening angles are nothing new. However, the ways today’s angle-guide models do it not only are especially creative and user friendly, the best of them offer many other highly useful functions as well.

Before reviewing four of the latest examples, a word of advice when sharpening a knife: stop and gauge your progress as you go. It will help ensure you don’t miss a dull spot and also keep you from over sharpening/abrading, thus preserving the life of your blade.

Smith’s Edge Pro Electric Sharpener

Smith’s has gotten more into electric sharpeners lately and the Edge Pro Electric Sharpener is one of the company’s latest. It is a countertop unit with a 3-foot-tall main housing rounded at the top for gripping. It is a three-stage pull-through sharpener—right side blade, left side blade and vertical hone. The right and left side pull-through slots access coarse diamond wheels that sharpen each side of the blade via a motor turning the wheels, the end result being an angle of approximately 22 degrees. The non-electric third slot houses two crossed ceramic rods to hone and de-burr the edge. A detachable electrical cord with adapter plug is included and a rocker switch on the base cuts the unit on and off.

Sharpening with the Edge Pro is simple but some tips will make its use more efficient and hazard free. First, this is a pull-through sharpener, so do not try to push the blade through. Second, for the best edge keep the blade as close to level as possible. Last, don’t apply too much downward force—you can bog down the motor. Steady, moderate pressure works best. The hone slot removes any rough burrs and sharpens the edge. I finished the blade with a leather strop and the edge was shaving sharp.

Smith’s Edge Pro Electric Sharpener Specs
Type: Benchtop electric, slotted
Dimensions: 8.5” long, 3” wide, 3.5” tall
Main body material: Plastic
Sharpening slots: Two coarse, one fine
Grit types: Diamond coarse and ceramic fine
Carry: None; tabletop design
Weight: 1 lb., 4 ozs.
Country of origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $32.99

Cold Steel Benchtop Knife Sharpener

The Cold Steel Benchtop Knife Sharpener is an affordable version of the variable fixed-angle sharpeners folks like to demonstrate on Instagram and Facebook. The knife is mounted blade-up* in the jaws of a clamp and the grit block sweeps across the edge horizontally. The blade is mounted at the top of the unit upside down, and the rod that holds the grit block is mounted on one long end of the base. The rod angle is adjustable from 15 to 30 degrees and is locked in by a thumbscrew on a sliding mount. To reverse the blade for sharpening the opposite edge you must remove a thumbscrew from the base and rotate the “tower” 180 degrees. There are two grit blocks, each with different diamond-coated surfaces: 300 and 600 on the coarse block, 800 and 1,000 on the fine one.

There’s a good reason for watching videos on complicated sharpeners such as these. I noticed the tower (my jargon for the sharpener’s tall main component) where it mates to the base had slack in it, allowing it to rock when sharpening. I watched two videos and saw why. When sharpening the edge with a grit block, the loose base allows you to follow the edge of the blade as the block traverses from base to tip. To hold the tower stable, use your free hand to keep the tower from tipping backward while your other hand sweeps the blade edge with the grit block. This is a bit awkward until you get the hang of it. When you finish one side of the blade, undo a thumb screw and rotate the knife 180 degrees to do the other side. Then start over again with the next finest grit until you finish with the 1,000 grit.

It seems time consuming but remember, this is a budget fixed-angle sharpener that costs less than many diamond bench stones. If you want to learn the basics, this compact sharpener is a good one. (Author’s note: The clamp jaws are wider than on the other fixed-angle sharpeners, which means it will not work with as narrow of a blade width as the others reviewed.)

Cold Steel Benchtop Knife Sharpener Specs
Type: Fixed angle, horizontal swing
Dimensions: 8” long, 5” wide, 9.75” tall
Main body material: Steel
Grit types: 300, 600, 800 and 1,000, diamond coated
Carry: Hard-shell thermoplastic case
Weight: 2 lbs.
Country of origin: China
MSRP: $129.99

Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener Elite

The Work Sharp Elite with the guide rod and a Tri-Brasive block is ready for action. According to the author, he snuck the Elite’s instruction pamphlet into the photo because Work Sharp does an outstanding job of providing set-up and use instructions, which is not always the case with some sharpeners.

The Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener Elite is an affordable, sophisticated sharpening system. It is a fixed-angle unit that operates using rods with an array of grit blocks that would make the pickiest sharpening aficionado drool: 220, 320, 400, 600 and 800, a ceramic rod for serrations, and a leather strop. That’s right, you can even strop with it. The tower clamps the blade, sets the angle of the edge you prefer, and holds the rod and grit block. It is the only sideways/horizontal blade mount of the test bunch. The Tri-Brasive grits are held in a special housing with a finger grip, three to a block—two total except for the ceramic rod and strop, which have their own smaller housings. Each housing has its own rod, making it easy to install and use. The clamp holds the knife with the blade edge facing the user. (Author’s note: This is the budget version of the Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener, the BLADE Magazine 2023 Accessory Of The Year [page 16, September BLADE®], which has grit widths of approximately 3/4 inch like the other fixed-angle sharpeners reviewed. The Elite model has 3/8-inch-wide grit slabs that may wear out faster.)

Assembly is shockingly easy—no tools required. Once the blade is mounted in the clamp, the grit housing/rod locks into place with a magnet located under the degree-setting brace on the tower, and that sets your blade angle. The edge faces you horizontally, making it easy to gauge your progress. Simply work your way up the consecutively finer diamond grits until it’s fine ceramic and strop time, which gives the razor-sharp edge a blazing shine. The ceramic rod for serrations is a nice addition. The only thing that might give you trouble is the base can tip forward if you put too much pressure on the blade. Easy does it is the byword here. All in all, the Work Sharp Precision Knife Sharpener Elite is a breeze to set up, easy to use for blisteringly sharp results, and packs up nicely when it comes time to stow. It is a tremendous value.

Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener Elite Specs
Type: Fixed angle, horizontal swing
Dimensions: 5” long, 4.5” wide, 7.25” tall
Main body material: Steel
Grit types: 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 diamond coated, ceramic and leather
Carry: Soft case
Weight: 1 lb., 8 ozs.
Country of origin: Assembled in the U.S.A. using foreign-made parts
MSRP: $139.93

Wicked Edge WE66 Obsidian

Sharpening both edges at the same time — The Wicked Edge WE66 Obsidian is the only test model that sharpened both sides of the blade in one session without flipping the knife. The blade mounts atop the tower and the swing rods and grit blocks are used in alternating right- and left-hand sweeps. Note how the guide rods are held in mounts that also set the angle.

The Wicked Edge WE66 Obsidian is another upscale, state-of-the-art fixed-angle sharpener capable of delivering mind-blowing results. What sets it apart from the others is that you sharpen both blade sides in the same session—no flipping of the knife is required. The Obsidian is the largest of the sharpening systems reviewed and has an 8×11-inch base that weighs more than the system itself.

The Obsidian uses diamond blocks with two different consecutive grits on opposing sides. There are four blocks total, two each identical because you sharpen both sides of the blade at the same time. There are two sanding-block rods with orb-shaped bases that act like ball bearings in the mounts. The bases slide on a rail to set the sharpening angle. Despite sounding complicated, it’s actually quite simple. The angle settings are very easy to read on the side of the base. The blade mounts upside down in the jaws atop the center tower and locks in place via a lever.

To use the Obsidian, mount the knife so the edge points straight up, and operate the rods and blocks with opposing hands. Once you sweep the blade with one hand you switch to the other and repeat until that grit has done its business. Sharpen with the low grit and when done rotate to the higher grit on the other side. When you’re finished with that block, replace it with the other block of a higher grit. You’ll have to provide your own strop.

Wicked Edge WE66 Obsidian Specs
Type: Fixed angle, horizontal swing
Dimensions: 11” long, 3” wide, 4” tall
Main body material: Steel
Grit types: 200, 600, 800 and 1,000, diamond coated
Weight: 2 lbs. 13 ozs.
Country of origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $799

Due Diligence

Much of what is written here will make a lot more sense when you watch a video of the sharpener that strikes your fancy. It will make assembly easier as well.

There’s something for everyone here. If you don’t care to labor over sharpening but still want a very competent cutter, the Smith’s Edge Pro should suit you just fine. The Cold Steel Benchtop Sharpener offers fixed-angle sharpening at a budget price and is a perfect steppingstone for getting your feet wet in hi-tech sharpening. Finally, the Work Sharp Elite and Wicked Edge Obsidian are both lights-out sharpeners if you want outstanding performance. Both are truly state-of-the-art.

Editor’s note: Always practice extreme caution when working on a knife held in a clamp, vise, jig, etc., with the edge pointing up and/or toward you. When finished sharpening, remove the knife from the fixture immediately so the danger of accidental cutting is eliminated.

More Sharpening Articles:

Knife Sharpening: What’s the Best Angle?
5 Myths About Knife Sharpening
5 Leading Sharpening Rods
4 Steps to Perfect Freehand Sharpening

Tactical Fixed Blade Knife Buyer’s Guide

Pat Covert

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October 31, 2023

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Tactical Fixed Blade Knife Buyer’s Guide

These tactical fixed blade knives are set to conquer the most extreme tasks.

When the Gulf War took off in Iraq in the early 1990s, the knife industry took off, too, and a steady stream of tactical fixed blades has surfed the wave ever since.

Needless to say, there are military fixed blades aplenty in the cutlery industry with no single design or manufacturer having a chokehold on today’s market. This has given knife users an abundance of choices, from pure fighters to utility users and everything in between.

A diverse quartet of the genre includes the Condor Fighter Knife, Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade, KA-BAR/John Ek Commando Short Clip and Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter. To determine their strengths and weaknesses, the first order of business was a common test for penetration.

Testing

I set up a heavy-duty corrugated-board box with a 1-inch Styrofoam™ liner made for shipping frozen foods. I tested each knife by thrusting the blade into the side of the box forcefully, and then pushing it through from a standstill with the tip resting on the box. All the knives penetrated the thick, layered material with ease—not surprising considering they have either clip-point or tanto blade patterns, both adept at stabbing. There was very little differential from one model to the next. What follows is a look at each knife and how it performed other chores.

Condor Tool & Knife Fighter Knife

Condor Fighter — The author took the Condor to task batonning a length of seasoned hardwood with good effect. According to him, “This is one versatile knife that even a bushcrafter would love.”

Condor Tool & Knife specializes in bang-for-the-buck blades and the Fighter Knife is no exception. Indeed, it is the most affordable of the test group. From the side the knife appears to be pudgy but it is actually quite nimble. The clip-point blade has jimping on the rear of the spine for enhanced purchase on detail cuts.

The tan handle is hidden tang in construction with a fine stippled surface texture, an ample palm swell in the middle and a lanyard loop. The exposed steel at the butt can be used for hammering. The sheath is MOLLE compatible, injection molded and features a black leather drop loop.

The knife easily switches from combat to field chores—not surprising as the company specializes in both. The wider blade is similar to that of many field knives, as is its deep grind. Slicing 3/8-inch rappelling rope and taking curls for firestarter were a breeze. I set the blade across the end of a 15-inch piece of tough seasoned hardwood, 25/8 inches across, and drove it clean through. This is a rugged knife. The sheath is relatively unobtrusive and rides about 2 inches above the beltline.

Condor Fighter Knife Specs
Blade length: 4.91”
Blade material: 1075 carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat w/secondary bevel
Blade finish: Black Cerakote®
Handle length: 4.83”
Handle material: Tan polypropylene
Weight: 8.82 ozs.
Overall length: 9.74”
Sheath: Tan polypropylene/leather belt strap
Country of origin: El Salvador
MSRP: $100

KA-BAR John Ek Commando Short Clip

Ka-Bar Commando Shor Clip — The Commando Short Clip tackled a 2.75-inch-diameter chub of summer sausage admirably. The blade is 5.125 inches of 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel, a time-proven KA-BAR favorite.

The John Ek Commando Short Clip is one in a series of military-type models KA-BAR Knives offers by the cutlery legend. This one is all black and a timeless, no-nonsense John Ek design. The blade is complemented by a 4.125-inch “stick” handle with scales affixed by big, fat screws, an Ek hallmark. The blade clip breaks with a slight harpoon kick, which I’m not sure Ek ever used, though it works wickedly, and there’s a short guard below the blade. The symmetrical handle has a lanyard hole at the butt. All of this is delivered with a modern, MOLLE-compatible sheath.

KA-BAR has done an admirable job picking up the John Ek banner and blending the old with the new. The Commando Short Clip’s narrow blade—1.31 inches wide—proved proficient at slicing. I tested it on paracord, 3/8-inch rappelling rope and a large round of 2.75-inch summer sausage, and it did a masterful job of tackling them all. It is a combat knife at heart and its light weight is not as skillful at tough field chores like hacking wood, but that’s not its department.

The handle is fine for small and medium hands but could be a challenge for those with large ones. The modern sheath is very well done and rides with the butt of the handle just above the waistband. Overall, this modern take on a classic leans toward a combat knife with enough utility to get you by.

KA-BAR/Ek Commando Short Clip Specs
Blade length: 5.125”
Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat
Blade finish: Black powder coat
Handle length: 4.125”
Handle material: Polymer
Weight: 10.4 ozs.
Overall length: 9.25”
Sheath: Black polymer Celcon/MOLLE compatible
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $155

Emerson Knives CQC-7

The Emerson Knives CQC-7 Fixed Blade hasn’t gotten a lot of face time because the overwhelming amount of tactical knife coverage of the company is devoted to folders. It’s the way of the world. The Emerson is the shortest of the review subjects and is also the one that tilts more toward being a pure combat knife—something its designer, martial arts specialist/custom knifemaker/cutlery entrepreneur Ernest Emerson, knows a thing or two about. The tanto blade sports a flat V-grind and a stonewashed finish. The blade has three straight grinds: the main edge, tip grind and a clipped saber grind. An Emerson Wave shape on the rear of the blade spine serves as a thumb ramp. The handle has a nice palm swell, a symmetrical dimpled texture for enhanced purchase and a lanyard hole in the butt.

The blade’s 7/16-inch edge grind was delivered wicked sharp and I took it to task slicing one of my favorites, 3/8-inch rappelling rope. The rope is extremely strong because lives depend on it. In one test I pulled the edge through three consecutive cross sections of rope. The drag on the blade was much less than I normally encounter—a pleasant surprise. It slashed the corrugated board outer layer into the Styrofoam effortlessly, and when I slowed the process down with a little more pressure, it dug through the foam as well. The sheath is a study in minimalism, but that’s what you want when concealment is at a premium.

Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade Specs
Blade length: 4.125”
Blade steel: 154CM stainless
Blade grind: V-grind
Blade finish: Stonewashed
Handle length: 4.625”
Handle material: Black G-10 composite
Weight: 5.86 ozs.
Overall length: 8.75”
Sheath: Black Kydex®
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $237.95

Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter

A goodly portion of observers seem to believe the Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter is noted knifemaker Bill Harsey’s consummate work and, though he has a load of nice designs in his stable, I wouldn’t argue. It is the largest of the test knives and a blend of modern styling with traditional cues. It is the Pineland Cutlery version manufactured by KA-BAR under the Spartan label.
The clip-point blade has a fuller that butts up against the ricasso. The handle surface boasts a diagonal rib pattern for enhanced grip and an ample lanyard hole at the butt. The sheath has a fabric-fastener drop loop and retention strap. There’s also a swing-out lock at the rear guard that secures the knife in the main body of the sheath.

It’s amazing what a couple of inches in length, a couple of ounces in weight, plus an extra inch in the handle add to the versatility of a knife. That’s on average what the Harsey Fighter has over the other knives tested. This is not a knock on the others, just the advantage of having more knife.

For chopping ability I tested the blade on a thick-skinned cantaloupe. I had to chop the melon off center to clear the handle but the blade made its point in one fell swoop. The extra weight allowed me to tackle tougher chores and the added blade length made for excellent slicing and hacking. You can clear a camp with the Harsey Fighter. The comfortably sculpted handle can accommodate the largest of hands and the upper flare offers good finger protection. The sheath is very well made but the guard lock takes some getting used to and is one added step for a quick draw. All in all, the Harsey Fighter earned its mettle in spades.

Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter Specs
Blade length: 6.125”
Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat
Blade finish: Black powder coat
Handle length: 5.35”
Handle material: Black G-10 composite
Weight: 11.5 ozs.
Overall length: 11.5”
Sheath: Black polymer/nylon belt loop/MOLLE compatible
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $195

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Bearded Axe: Best Bashers From Here To Valhalla (2023)

Buyer's Guides

Pat Covert

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July 31, 2023

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Bearded Axe: Best Bashers From Here To Valhalla (2023)

Hot bearded axes go beyond just chopping.

All axe heads have an edge, of course, but did you know some can give you an edge over others? The bearded axe chops just like any axe, but its beard can serve field duty beyond the norm.

The bearded axe was first used by the Scandinavian Norse people (Norsemen) in the Middle Ages and was called a skeggox—skegg for beard and ox for axe. Its distinctive shape allows you to grasp the handle at the base of the head and use the edge for woodworking chores.

It’s sometimes called a carving axe for its propensity for de-barking, shaving and notching wood, and other chores like slicing cord and rope—even serving as an ulu to prepare food. Not all bearded axes are made specifically for carving wood, however, as you’re about to find out.

CRKT James Williams Skeggox

Bearded Axe CRKT — The CRKT Skeggox shaved bark and rendered nice shavings while debarking and pointing the tip of a hardwood stake. The SK5 carbon steel bit into the hardwood quite well and the handle scales offered a comfortable grip.

Columbia River Knife & Tool and martial artist/Japanese sword guru James Williams dipped back in time and chose the original Norse namesake for his design. The CRKT Skeggox is one of the larger two test axes.

The drop in the beard from the top of the inner curve to the bottom edge is 3.25 inches. The 11-inch handle has a lanyard loop at the base. The sheath features a black nylon keeper strap with a thermoplastic buckle to prevent slippage from the sheath. CRKT includes additional hardware for belt or MOLLE carry.

The SK5 carbon steel of the axe head has been compared to U.S.-produced 1084 and 1095 carbon steels, which typically fare well-working wood in the wild. I tested it for carving and immediately liked the deep drop and the “50 miles of elbow room” between the handle and the rear of the beard. I de-barked and pointed a fat hardwood tent peg, and the more I used the bearded blade the better my control got for taking off long shavings. This was in part due to the low profile of the quarter-inch steel and the nice bite of the high carbon alloy.

The Skeggox is also a good all-around chopper for firewood and clearing small trees. The sheath is economical and the option of belt or MOLLE carry is welcome. Better yet, it is the most affordable of the review axes and money well spent.

James Williams Skeggox Specs
Head Width: 4.874”
Blade Edge: 5”
Blade Material: SK-5 carbon steel (Japan)
Blade Thickness: .25”
Blade Finish: Black powder coat
Handle Material: Black FRN polymer
Weight: 26 ozs.
Overall Length: 13”
Sheath: Black thermoplastic
Country of Origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $113

Doublestar/Outlier Kodiak Camp Axe

Bearded Axe Kodiak — The author removed the splitter attachment from the Outlier Kodiak Camp Axe to clear the way for using the blade for debarking and shaving wood. He used the longer, lower portion of the double-edged blade and was impressed with the performance of the 52100 carbon steel.

The Outlier (formerly Doublestar) Kodiak Camp Axe is the second of the larger test axes and comes with a twist. The axe head has a removable steel splitter attachment installed, specifically made for cleaving wood. It is also notable in that the blade edge has two grinds.

The beard drop is 2.5 inches. The handle scales are sumptuous at a half-inch thick each. The sheath covers the axe head and splitter until it reaches the widened rear of the splitter used for hammering. The front has a nylon belly strap with a thermoplastic buckle to secure the axe head.

The splitter increases weight, blocks access to the beard for slicing and shaving, and is too unwieldy for my tastes for finesse work. I removed it, reducing axe weight by 8 ounces and making the Kodiak much easier to manipulate. I thought the two angles of edge might make a difference in cutting surface—and I’m sure they would—but the longer, lower edge turned out to be all I needed for de-barking and shaving long slivers. The 52100 carbon steel cut like a house afire, slicing wood and ¾-inch rappelling rope with ease.

It was a different axe altogether without the splitter and more in line with the other text axes. The only recommendation I’d have is that Outlier offer the same axe with a full, single-edged head to increase the coverage of the edge. Other than that, it’s a beast.

Kodiak Camp Axe Specs
Head Width: 5.25”
Blade Edge: Varied
Blade Material: 52100 carbon steel
Blade Thickness: .25”
Blade Finish: Parkerized black
Handle Material: Green G-10 composite w/orange liners
Special Features: Splitter attachment
Weight: 40 ozs. (including splitter)
Overall Length: 13.125”
Sheath: Black thermoplastic
Country of Origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $319

Halfbreed Compact Rescue Axe

Bearded Axe Halfbreed — The Halfbreed Compact Rescue Axe shaved wood and sliced rappelling rope with flying colors. The axe head steel is the thickest of the test group.

The Halfbreed Compact Rescue Axe is the smallest of our bearded array yet is also the most overbuilt. It makes up for its smaller size with the thick axe head steel. There’s a nice palm swell at the lower grip area and a big finger groove at the top of the handle.

It has a beard drop of 1.5 inches. Out back is a 2-inch spike. The rear spine has gimping to enhance grip. The sheath offers full coverage and a keeper loop rolls under the bit to further secure the axe head. It has a mounted MOLLE-compatible plate, or you can swap it out with an optional DOTS Tek-Lok style attachment for belt carry.

While testing the Halfbreed I had to remind myself it is indeed a compact rescue axe. While all the other review subjects are geared for outdoor use, this small overbuilt wonder is more for city work. That said, the large finger groove at the top of the handle is custom-made for carving and slicing just as bearded axes were intended. I tested the little axe and it shaved bark, took off shavings, and sliced rappelling rope just fine, but its thick steel and superior weight-for-size ratio really shine when hacking and bashing. I have no doubt it would earn its stars as a close-quarters hawk.

I gave the spike a run on a pane of 3/16-inch door glass and it obliged, shattering it with gusto. The ample grip, with its added gimping, makes for excellent purchase, and the sheath—overbuilt like the axe—is the most comprehensive of the lot. In a nutshell, the Halfbreed is a handy axe—and a bulldog at that!

Compact Rescue Axe Specs
Head Width: 4.5”
Blade Edge: 2.55”
Blade Material: Bohler K110 (D2) tool steel
Blade Thickness: .31”
Blade Finish: Black Teflon coating
Handle Material: Black G-10 composite
Special Features: Faceted spike, gimping
Weight: 25.07 ozs.
Overall Length: 9.52”
Sheath: Black Kydex, MOLLE compatible
Country of Origin: Australia
MSRP: $310

Maserin Knives Mantis

Bearded Axe Mantis — The unusual axe head of the Maserin Mantis offers full knuckle protection and then some. Note that the Mantis has a pair of upper scales just for the purpose of using the axe for shaving and slicing.

Maserin Knives may be giving us a glimpse into the future with its new, strikingly stylish Mantis. It is a small axe and you’ll notice the steep tool steel blade is quite lengthy for its size. In fact, the blade exceeds the width of the axe head—a bit unusual in a working axe.

“But wait, there’s more!” as the TV guy says. The Mantis has four (two sets) of scales: one at the top for carving comfort and the other on the lower portion of the handle for grip. At the base of the straight top scale the direction of the handle switches to an outward curve, and the exposed part on the handle has three lightening holes—plus there’s a lanyard hole and a spike on the base. The sheath fits the axe head only and butts against the top scale, and there’s a belt loop stitched to the back. It’s minimalism at its finest.

The Mantis has the longest beard drop of all the test axes at 3.75 inches and is the only one that offers full hand protection. The blade curve stands apart in that it is virtually symmetrical from end to end. It’s shape and full knuckle protection begged me to try it as an ulu for slicing, so I laid down some 3/8-inch rappelling rope and went at it. The Mantis sliced just like an ulu, taking off clean sections of rope. It performed even better when I reversed the grip with the handle facing away from me so it didn’t hit me in the belly. Voila! Instant ulu.

The Mantis shaved bark and carved off curls quite well and the full finger protection was welcome. It’s the lightest of the axes reviewed, which could put it at a disadvantage to the others when weight is a factor. You won’t be batonning this axe either because the top scales would block it from going past the front portion of the head. That said, there’s plenty to like about the Mantis’s utility value and its forward-thinking styling!

Mantis Specs
Head Width: 3.75”
Blade Edge: 4.527”
Blade Material: D2 tool steel
Blade Finish: Stonewashed
Blade Thickness: .326”
Handle Material: Black G-10 composite
Special Feature: Futuristic design
Weight: 20.23 ozs.
Overall Length: 11.02”
Sheath: Black Kydex
Country of Origin: Italy
MSRP: $216

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Shop Dump: TOMMY “BUBBA” CROUCH

Knifemaking

Pat Covert

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June 7, 2023

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Part of the Texas Slipjoint Cartel, Bubba Crouch shares the tools with witch he crafts his creations.

Tommy “Bubba” Crouch is a Texan through and through. In fact, he lives only minutes from Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Bill Ruple, who has mentored more slip-joint knifemakers than a little bit. Crouch is one of those pupils and was also the spark in naming a merry band of talented custom makers who studied under Ruple the South Texas Slipjoint Cartel.

Crouch employs his Harig 618 automatic surface grinder for bringing parts to thicknesses pre-heat treat and for clean-up post-heat treat.

“Bill Ruple and I were sitting around one day in his shop and we were just talking about knives and such,” Bubba recalls. “We were talking about our bladesmithing friends in the Montana Mafia, so we came up with the name South Texas Slipjoint Cartel. It was mainly just to mess with our Montana knifemaking friends who’d formed such a group. We decided to make it an LLC. Our group has done many donation knives for charity events. It mainly consists of friends sharing techniques and better ways to do things. I have been blessed to have Bill Ruple five miles away and he has helped me tremendously. Other members sharing their knowledge have also been something that helped me personally.”

It can be truly said that Bubba is all cowboy and all hat. He grew up ranching, spent time on the competitive roping circuit, and even had a stint driving a cattle truck. He took up knifemaking in 2009 and credits his apprenticeship under Ruple as the key to where he is today.

Bubba uses The Outlaw grinder with the Moen platen (above) for grinding blades exclusively. “Both work well together,” he observes.

First Crouch calls out his milling machine. “The Bridgeport Mill is an adjustable speed head that I use for milling integrals, liners, relieving liners and spinning center handle pins,” he notes. As for shop grinders, he has a plethora. “My automatic surface grinder is a Harig 618. This machine I use for bringing parts to thicknesses pre-heat treat and for clean up after heat treat. The Outlaw grinder with the Moen platen is used for grinding blades only. Both work well together,” he observes. “The Northridge grinder I use for roughing out and shaping parts.

“My green grinder is made by Enrique Pena and is a great piece of equipment. The wheel and platen flip around and the back side can be used as a loose belt. The horizontal grinder is an AMK and is a necessity for making slip joints, in my opinion.”

For his main disc grinder setup, Crouch uses a Hardcore model for cutting blade tangs and fitting handle material into the liners. The flat disc is homemade for thinning and flattening handle material.

Last but not least on the grinder front Bubba lists his disc grinders. “My main disc setup came from Hardcore and is used on cutting in the tang on the blade and for fitting handle material into the liners,” Bubba explains. “The flat disc is homemade and used for thinning and flattening handle material.”

He has two ovens for heat treating. “My heat-treat ovens are both newer models. The Paragon Pro is a great oven that gets to tip really quickly,” he notes. “The Evenheat has been a great addition and is very accurate.”

Bubba also keeps two pantographs in his shop. “The first is an Alexander 1B that I use for inlays and cutting shields. It’s an older machine from the early 1880s,” he states. “The second pantograph is a Gorton P1-2. I use this machine for engraving my name into the blades.”

He also keeps another specialty machine for shop duty. “The Oliver drill point thinner has been converted with a table and a cupped stone to cut nail nicks in the blades,” Crouch advises, wrapping up with something no maker can do without: “The workbench came from Sam’s Wholesale Club and I have three of them—very well built for the money.”

Pat Covert

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