Page 127 – BLADE Magazine

4 AWESOME LINERLOCK EDC KNIVES

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March 4, 2021

When it comes to EDC folder locks, the linerlock is hard to beat

Few folding knife locks perform as well for everyday carry (EDC) as the linerlock. Constructed properly, the linerlock is easy to open and, especially on a knife that includes a blade opener and a pocket clip, is a snap to carry, deploy, open and close, all with one hand—an EDC hallmark.

CRKT Knives CEO

Designed by award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers, the CEO Bamboo linerlock folder is one of the more slender knives from CRKT. It’s an unobtrusive folder that won’t weigh you down and is ideal for dress suit carry. In fact, it can carry attached to a shirt pocket a la a ballpoint pen. It blends well with the office crowd, as it is a low profile design that will not raise eyebrows.

Just over 3 inches long, the blade is 8Cr13MoV stainless steel for a good balance of edge holding and resharpening ease. The trailing-point blade opens quickly and efficiently via a thumb stud. The pivot’s Ikoma Korth Bearing System (IKBS) enhances smooth blade action. A saber-style primary grind combined with a full-length swedge grind gives the blade a bit of attitude.

Award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers designed the CEO Bamboo from CRKT to be the quintessential office carry folder. It is tailored for such daily uses as trimming stray threads from clothing.

The handle consists of two stainless steel liners and glass-reinforced nylon scales. The scales are molded in a color and shape/texture to mimic bamboo. The handle’s squared off butt resembles the classic doctor’s knife/pillbuster pocketknife pattern. A deep carry, fold-over clip allows the knife to ride low in a pants or shirt pocket, or inside a sport coat breast pocket.

The linerlock engages firmly and secures the blade open with no play. Simply hit the thumb stud and the blade pops open fast to the locked position thanks to the IKBS. Firmly push the edge of the exposed portion of the lock spring, and the blade unlocks and rotates closed as easily as it opens. I like how simple it is to open and close the blade, especially for such a slender folder. Many such folders do not manipulate easily due to their size.

Opening mail is one of the many tasks the slender blade of the CRKT CEO Bamboo does well.

And for a slender folder, the CEO has plenty of bite. The slim blade slits open envelopes and packages effortlessly. I like how it blends in and does its thing with no unnecessary fanfare. The only negative about the CEO is also a positive—the deep carry clip. The fold-over design creates a hot spot when you grip the handle but carries the closed folder deep in the pocket, which is nice. Given that the knife isn’t made for prolonged, heavy duty use, I find the clip to be a good thing. Made in China, the CEO has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $54.99. It is a great value.

EXCELLENT SLICER: Citadel Kampot

The Citadel Kampot linerlock folder sports a 3-inch drop point blade of Bohler N690 stainless steel. N690 is a mid-grade stainless with great edge holding properties but also is rather easy to resharpen. It is a fine alternative to today’s “super steels.” The ergonomic handle has double stainless steel liners and stabilized blue beech scales. Red liners add a subtle pop of color. The scales are nicely rounded and contoured so the folder rests in your grip comfortably with no hot spots. An integrated guard prevents your hand from sliding onto the blade edge and, together with a bird’s beak butt, keeps your hand on the handle.

The linerlock secures tightly with zero blade play. Five large notches in the end of the liner aid thumb traction in unlocking the blade. The Kampot has a nail nick opener instead of a thumb stud, hole, disc or flipper, so it is the only knife of the test bunch that requires two hands to open, though it does close with one hand like the others. Neither does it have a clip.

The Citadel Kampot (left) easily rivals most any working folder with its drop point blade. The high polish of the steel makes it easy to clean as well.

At 4.5 inches closed the Kampot is rather large, which might make it a bit uncomfortable for pocket carry. A braided leather lanyard attached to the handle permits you to fish the folder easily from a pocket. The knife is good looking, with the blade, liners and handle screws exhibiting a high polish.

The flat-ground blade is an excellent slicer. However, out of the box it was not as sharp as I prefer. I gave it a few light strokes on a ceramic rod followed by stropping and that enhanced its bite. The grip is very comfortable and a great alternative to folders with flat handle profiles. It is really nice looking. The beech scales differ slightly in color. The test model has streaks of tan and blue-green as well. It reminds me of how brass and copper patina when exposed to the elements over time and get a blueish green hue. The Kampot is a great alternative if you’re not into the all black and edgy tactical folder look. The blade pivot is not exposed, so the pivot tension is not adjustable. This cleans up the look, though I know some knife guys like to adjust the pivot tension to their own liking.

Citadel’s Kampot folder is a bit rough around the edges but remains a very efficient cutting tool. The flat-ground blade slices through a variety of materials with gusto.

A negative is the knife’s size, though for some that is a good thing. The lack of a clip is compounded by the lack of a belt sheath. The Kampot needs one. For me, the knife is too big to carry in the pocket, so belt carry would be the best option. On the other hand, ready-made belt sheaths are rather easy to find (a good source is Smoky Mountain Knife Works at smkw.com/knife-accessories/sheaths). Made in Cambodia, the Kampot has an MSRP of $205.

CHECKS ’EM ALL: Puma SGB

The Mach 1, along with the Sonic, are linerlock flipper folders Puma SGB introduced in 2020. They are identical, sharing the same handle materials/design and blade material. The only difference is the Sonic features a clip point blade and the Mach 1 has a modified drop point. With its hollow ground main bevel and generous, sweeping belly, the 3.6-inch blade in the latter pattern accomplishes a wide variety of cutting tasks. It is a large folder ideal for the ample knife jobs you have, indoors or out.

The German 1.4116 stainless steel holds an edge well and is fairly easy to resharpen. It is a steel found mainly in kitchen knives and is highly stain resistant. It isn’t commonly used in the knife industry, and expect performance to be equivalent to 440A or even 420HC stainless. Its lower overall production costs are passed on to you in the form of a great value.

A flipper tab offers quick and effortless one-hand deployment. The swift, smooth action is aided by a pair of ceramic caged ball bearings in the pivot. The handle features nice carbon fiber scales, giving the Mach 1 a modern, futuristic appearance—it is eye catching the way the light reflects off the strands in the weave pattern. The chamfered edges of the carbon fiber are textured to aid grip retention. A deep carry, fold-over pocket clip totes the closed folder blade tip down in the pocket, deep enough to conceal the knife yet hold it within easy reach.

The Puma SGB Mach 1 matches 1.4116 stainless steel with a sturdy handle sporting carbon fiber scales and stainless steel liners. The blade rides on ceramic bearings for smooth opening and closing.

The Mach 1 checks all the boxes: great fit and finish, silky smooth blade action, and super sharp and ready to work right out of the box. The drop point blade adapts to most any task. The edge has a nice bite and easily sinks into the material being cut. As wide as the handle is, you can get a really good grip that instills confidence. The open-frame handle promotes ease of cleaning. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $149.99. For the money, it’s a solid value in features and performance.

The hollow grind of the Puma SGB Mach 1’s drop point blade (middle left) helps provide plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.

NEW LEVEL of CHIC: F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives

Taking EDC folders to a new level of chic, the F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives features bold styling with a sheepsfoot blade and an ergonomic handle. The 3.4-inch blade is Bohler N690 stainless steel. The flat grind is tailored for both stout utility applications and lateral strength. A flipper is integrated for fast opening and is assisted by ceramic bearings, which promote super-smooth action and rapid deployment.

A large finger recess at the pivot allows you to index the G-10 grip, while the “bird’s beak” butt captures your hand. The G-10 has a light 3-D machining pattern that aids purchase. Traction notches at the thumb rest on the spine supply grip to bear down for power cuts. Dual nested stainless steel liners provide a rigid backbone and the nesting feature reduces overall handle thickness. Two large standoffs add style. A smaller standoff at the rear acts as a tie-off point for a lanyard (not included).

Even the pocket clip is nicely done. It’s sculpted, styled titanium that carries the closed folder blade tip up and is secured via one large screw. The clip’s shape mimics the handle’s curvature, and the overlay adds to aesthetics. It’s great to see a company put extra effort and thought into the clip, which looks better than standard stamped clips. It definitely holds the knife securely in the pocket.

The F24-33 Nutcracker has a black stonewashed blade, black liners, standoffs and clip, and a green G-10 handle. At 4.5 inches closed, the knife is sized just right to handle just about any cutting task. The linerlock secures quite tightly at the lower third of the tang with no blade play. A series of traction notches at the exposed portion of the liner permits the thumb to easily seat and secure itself to unlock the blade.

HOW LINERLOCKS SHOULD LOCK

Many knife nuts in-the-know have certain preferences to where a brand new linerlock knife’s lock spring should hit on the tang when the blade is locked open. Some prefer it to hit in the lower third of the tang, from the linerlock side. Some prefer it to hit in the middle.

One thing to remember about linerlocks is there is a break-in period for the lock. In other words, as the metal on the end of the lock spring wears to conform with the tang, it is likely that the spring will travel more toward the center of the tang—not a whole lot, just a little. Hence, it is probably best to select a linerlock knife where the spring hits on the lower third so it can compensate some following the break-in period.

— by Dexter Ewing

Above: The test linerlocks exhibit how they wedge the blades open at the tangs, from left: Steel Will Nutcracker, Puma SGB Mach I, Citadel Kampot and CRT CEO Bamboo. On the tang of the blade where the linerlock spring directly hits, the face is machined at an angle so that when the spring moves into place, there is a wedging effect that stops the spring from moving any farther. Titanium is an ideal material for the spring as titanium tends to gall, or stick, to steel, and, of course, the tang is steel.

BLADE’S SPECIAL EDC ISSUE

Melissa Miller

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February 18, 2021

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A bevy of EDC knives graces the cover of our special EDC issue: the CRKT CEO, V Nives Killabite, Hogue Knives First Response Trauma Tool, TOPS Knives Mini Tanimboca Puukko and Gerber Knife Key Note.

CRKT’s CEO is a slender Richard Rogers design with the go-to lock of many EDC folders: a linerlock. For a small EDC in damascus blade steel with a miniature tactical feel, the V Nives Killabite fills the bill. The Mini Tanimboca Puukko is a neck knife that doubles as a small bushcraft model thanks in part to its flat-back Scandi-ground blade. The Hogue Knives First Response Trauma Tool is perhaps the most utilitarian in terms of EDC: a rescue knife. And finally, the Outdoor Edge MiniBlaze is a keychain knife—the type of EDC you don’t usually need to worry about remembering to take along with you because it’s with your keys.

The images of all of the cover knives are courtesy of the participating companies. To subscribe to BLADE Magazine for just $19.99 a year, click here.

The Hamon: What, Where, Why and How

Steve Shackleford

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February 12, 2021

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To those who appreciate the tempered steel of a Japanese sword, the hamon is visual evidence of the maker’s effort to produce the finest blade work. In the West, the hamon appears in much the same fashion on Western knives, a blending of culture and craft. Where East meets West on the steel blade, there is the hamon, the graceful temper line.

“From a practical point of view, the hamon is a visible indication of a differentially heat-treated blade,” explained knifemaker Stuart Branson. “In many cases, it’s advantageous to have a harder edge supported by a softer spine in a knife. In this way, you gain the benefits of the good edge retention afforded by the harder edge with the durability of the softer spine region of the blade. In the long and graceful form of the Japanese sword this might seem obvious, but the same is true for Western blades, particularly those hard-use knives or the very popular larger chopping knives.”

According to veteran maker Gary House, the aesthetic effect of the hamon is behind its surge in demand among Western collectors, clearly defining the transition zone between hard edge and soft back.

“The popularity of the hamon on non-Japanese blades today, I believe, is the visual effect of the temper line,” he commented. “The movement and variations of the hamon are very attractive and visually appealing compared to a straight temper line.”

More and more, discriminating knife customers are looking for the hamon on the blades of some of the best-known, iconic Western-style knives.

“‘You will put a little something in the blade, won’t you?’ is a common request these days,” commented Mike Craddock, who started making knives in the 1970s, took a 40-year hiatus, and has come back strong recently. “It doesn’t necessarily make the knife better, but it does look good. I consider it the spirit of the steel.”

Certainly, the hammered and heat-treated steel is expected to be sturdy. However, the quest for the hamon is a classic case of discovering what lies beneath.

“For me, it is the mystery of the hamon,” related bladesmith Erik Fritz. “What shape is it going to take? How much work is it going to entail to bring it out so it can be seen? I think what makes it so special is that each hamon is so different and unique.”

PRODUCING THE HAMON

The hamon is there, lying within the reach of the knifemaker who is willing to take the time to thoroughly rub the steel to enhance the elusive line. For some makers, that effort is standard procedure. To them, a blade without this unmistakable flair of the Orient just comes up short. A hamon on Western knives bridges cultures and demonstrates a willingness on the maker’s part to invest the time and energy required.

“Like many, I have always been enamored of the Japanese sword,” Branson said. “The hamon is integral to its design and construction, and although it isn’t necessary that it be brought out to that degree, polishing these swords has been elevated to an art.”

Branson says he attempts to achieve several goals in the production of the hamon. First, he wants to emulate the beauty of the Japanese blade. In the attempt, he learns to see the intricacies of the pattern, theory of design, and the dedication of the artists that have gone before him.

“Producing a hamon is not just adding clay to a blade and hoping for the best,” he reasoned. “It is understanding the steel being used, the temperatures and times needed to achieve your aim, and the amount and pattern of the clay to produce the hamon you are after, the delicate process of heating the blade properly before the quench and, in the case of water quenching Japanese-style blades, the terror and elation of a successful water quench—the violent transformation of the steel into two forms above and below the hamon line, and the resulting curvature induced. One can understand how the swordsmiths approached their craft with a religious reverence.”

WATER VS. OIL QUENCH

Producing the hamon involves a process of coating the blade with clay and then quenching it in either oil or water. The water quench is more rapid and therefore potentially more catastrophic should a crack or complete break occur.

“I use clay and white crushed stone,” House noted. “A paste of satanite also works well. The clay insulates the blade from heat and will be a thin layer as it comes down toward the edge of the blade.”

Most makers who frequently produce a hamon opt for such tool steels as W1 and W2, and carbon steels such as 1050, 1075, 1084 and 1095. “Simple carbon steels are conducive to the very fast quenching requirements of a clay-coated quench,” Fritz remarked. “This allows the insulating clay to retard the hardening of the coated areas of the blade. High-alloy steels that allow thorough hardening of the blade are not conducive to the creation of a very active hamon. What you get with the high-alloy steels is more of a straight line.

“With W2 I prefer the water quench,” Erik continued. “With 1084 and 1095 I use Parks 50 quenching oil. Any hamon requires an insulating layer of clay to be applied to the spine. The biggest difference in hamon activity is in the quenching medium, such as water or oil. In my experience and opinion, greater hamon activity is achieved through a water quench. If you are going the safe route and using oil, there is less chance of a catastrophic blade failure.”

Branson said he sees fundamental differences in the hamons produced and the effects of the water or oil quench on the steel itself. On Japanese-style blades, the water quench introduces sori, or curvature to the blade. As the water quenches the steel, the uncoated steel cools quickly while the coated spine retains heat, staying expanded longer and causing the blade to curve downward. As the spine cools, the hardened edge begins to curve upward. Quenching oils are typically made for industrial use and to prevent deformation of the steel as much as possible. Consequently, the blade tends to curve downward and remain so.

When quenching a blade in water, Stuart added, “The hamon tends to be more cloudlike, more diffuse, and to my mind a little more mysterious and poetic. The oil hamon, however, is more literal, more willing to follow the clay pattern and is more defined on its boundaries. However, the ashi, the wispy lines that come off the main patterns, can be very delicate and defined. Control of this can make for a very exciting hamon.”

The investment of both materials and a significant amount of time impact the cost of a blade complete with a hamon. However, for the maker willing to commit the time and the potential buyer, a genuine value is readily apparent.

“You do have extra work in claying the blade,” Craddock said, “and then there are literally hours of hand rubbing to get the aesthetics right. The steel does what it wants to, but there is a process that you go through. The steel offers it if you are willing to go out and get it. To me, the time involved in the hamon, and about 90 percent of the steel blades I make have them, adds about 10 percent to the cost of the knife—but from the standpoint of hours it should probably be double.”

LANGUAGE OF THE BLADE

The hamon brings beauty and satisfaction to the maker and the buyer. Further, it is taking its place among the desired aesthetic effects of Western knives, proving that the world is indeed much smaller when the same language is spoken—in this case, the language of the blade.—BY MIKE HASKEW

What To Look For in a Hamon

Discriminating knife buyers looking for a quality hamon should bear a few things in mind. A hamon can be wavy, undulating or any number of shapes. Whatever the shape, it must be well formed, clear and unbroken. What’s more, according to Don Fogg, it must be possible to describe in an understandable manner using a traditional vocabulary.

Erik Fritz advises that a professionally done hamon will exhibit a sharp demarcation between the hard and soft areas. Watch out for a hamon line that dips too close to the cutting edge. Stuart Branson agrees that if the hamon comes close to or reaches the edge of the blade, then a section of the edge is not hardened properly. Levels of refinement in the hamon involve subjective preferences as they relate to clarity and detail.—BY MIKE HASKEW

How To Obtain a Hamon

For more on producing a hamon, see “How To Clay Temper and Obtain a Beautiful Hamon” by ABS master smith Don Fogg in the book, Spirit of the Sword. To order a copy call 1-855-278-0406 or visit www.shopblade.com and click on “Books & References.”

CAPTION FOR PICTURE AT TOP

For his stag “Ferncliff” model, Lin Rhea employs a wavy, cloud-like hamon on the 9-inch W2 tool steel blade. Overall length: 14 inches. (Chuck Ward photo)

For the latest knives, knife trends, knifemakers, what knives to buy and where, knife legislation, knifemaking instruction, and much more, subscribe to BLADE® Magazine, the World’s No. 1 Knife Publication.

EVENT NEWS: BLADE SHOW WEST HAS MOVED TO LONG BEACH

Uncategorized

Melissa Miller

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February 10, 2021

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EVENT NEWS: BLADE SHOW WEST HAS MOVED TO LONG BEACH

BLADE Show, the world’s largest knife show, has announced a major venue upgrade for its BLADE Show West exhibition. The 2021 event will take place at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long Beach, California, on Friday and Saturday, Oct. 8-9.

After months of searching for the best possible location for BLADE Show West, the BLADE Show staff unanimously concluded that Long Beach is the place to be.

“Many exhibitors and attendees who joined us in Portland, Oregon, for the past two West shows suggested ways we could improve on the experience. We listened and started looking for alternative locations. The Long Beach area has so much going for it that this was an easy decision,” said Alicia Newton, BLADE Show director.

“Foremost in our decision is the fact that Long Beach is knife-friendly in ways that many of the other venues we considered are not. Management at the Long Beach Convention Center has been easy to work with and is genuinely excited about adding our event to their calendar. Exhibitors can expect great show traffic and hassle-free transactions.”

Long Beach has all the amenities that show attendees and exhibitors value. It’s easy to navigate, there are plenty of hotel options, and a huge variety of dining and entertainment options can be found within walking distance of the convention center. Further, the size and layout of the convention center lends itself to expansion in future years.

Additional details, including lodging information, will be posted regularly at bladeshowwest.com during the coming weeks, so check back often.

To get a head start on planning your trip to the Long Beach area, visit longbeachcc.com/attendees.

The official BLADE Show West website is bladeshowwest.com.

Interested in exhibiting? Please email us at [email protected].

5 Myths About Knife Sharpening

Knife Collecting

BLADE Staff

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February 9, 2021

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Knife sharpening is, on its surface, a simple thing. That hasn’t prevented a few myths from popping up, though. Here are five knife sharpening myths, busted.

Myth: You Need Expensive Knife Sharpening Tools

Fact: Quality knife sharpening stones, sticks, oils, and other gizmos can help quite a bit. However, you can’t buy your way to sharpening success. Technique is 90 percent of it. Humans have been sharpening knives without manufactured products for centuries. How did they do it? They knew how to work an edge.

Here are knife sharpening tips for the uninitiated. All you need are some junky practice knives, a sharpening stone, a Sharpie and some patience to get started.

Myth: Diamond-Infused Knife Sharpening Stones Last Forever

DMT knife sharpener — A DMT Diafold in action.

Fact: Diamonds might be forever, but knife sharpeners are a different story. Here’s DMT with the answer:

For those that use stones on a daily basis and maintain them properly, the diamond will likely last for a few years. For those that use them less frequently, it’s likely the stone will last from ten to twenty years.

Still, you can’t beat the value of a $40 knife sharpener that gets the job done over several years.

Myth: Using a Sharpening Stone Dry Works Faster Than Using It Wet Because It Removes More Metal

Fact: Don’t confuse friction with progress. Adding a little water or oil to maximizes your effort with every stroke on a knife sharpening stone. Remember, knife sharpening isn’t necessarily about scraping metal away; it’s about refining or creating an edge.

SharpeningSupplies.com ran a test exploring this exact knife sharpening myth. The results?

The results were clear. Use your stones wet. The stones used wet worked far better than the ones used dry.

That isn’t to say that every knife sharpening stone needs to be used wet. It’s more that this is not an either-or proposition. Some can be used dry, too, as Cutlery-Hall-of-Fame Member Dan Delavan demonstrates in this video.

On that note, if you use water on a stone, always use water. If you use oil, always use oil. Oil and water don’t mix, and that goes for knife sharpening, too.

Myth: Electric Knife Sharpeners Can Sharpen Almost Any Knife

Portable electric knife sharpener — The Cordless Knife & Tool Sharpener from Smith’s Products features easily adjustable angle guides that hold the knife at the proper set angle for a consistent edge. (DMS Captures image)

Fact: Electric knife sharpeners can sharpen most knives, but that doesn’t mean that they should.

Electric knife sharpeners have fixed angle positions. If your favorite knife’s edge is set at 20 degrees, and the electric knife sharpener is set at 15 or 30 degrees, you might need a new favorite knife.

The type of grind is also left unconsidered with electric knife sharpeners. For example, a blade’s convex edge will be reset by a sharpener tuned to a flat grind.

Edges aren’t set by accident. They are tied to the purpose and performance of a knife.

Matching the knives you intend to sharpen to the features of an electric knife sharpener is important. So is learning how to use manual knife sharpeners!

Myth: Diamond Knife Sharpeners Aren’t Really Made Out Of Diamonds — That’s Just Marketing

Fact: Diamond knife sharpeners use real diamonds.

On first glance, this knife sharpening myth seems to make sense. Walk into a jewelry store and you’ll see diamonds with four-figure price tags. A sporting goods store, on the other hand, offers diamond knife sharpeners for less than 100 bucks. Maybe you should’ve reconsidered financing that engagement ring.

Knife sharpening companies often use monocrystalline diamonds, which are not the same as jewelry-grade diamonds. Here’s DMT again with the explanation:

Monocrystalline diamonds are diamonds of high quality that are not fractured. These diamonds are uniformly sized. DMT® bonds these to a nickel backing to provide a long lasting very flat surface. The alternative is to use polycrystalline diamonds. These diamonds are fractured and will not wear as long as the higher quality monocrystalline.

Half Myth: When Sharpening, Use an Equal Number of Strokes on Each Side

Fact: This one could cut either way. It’s right on the line of myth versus reality.

It’s generally accepted that an equal number of strokes on each side of the blade will result in an even edge. However, hands don’t work exactly the same way in both directions. As Delavan states in the video above, most people’s backhand stroke isn’t as sturdy, and that could result in an uneven edge.

The trick is to compensate with a few more strokes on that backhand.

What Exactly is a Tactical Knife?

Knife Collecting

Les Robertson

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February 8, 2021

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What is a Tactical Knife?

Synthetic, grippy handles (usually)
Non-reflective blade coating (usually)
Designed for hard and/or quick use
Aesthetics invoke military purposes
Spyderco founder Sal Glesser once said, a tactical knife is any knife you have with you when you need a knife.
Some say custom knifemaker Bob Terzuola made the first tactical folding knife, while others say Ernest Emerson did.
Maybe it’s all a marketing gimmick!

A Brief History the Tactical Knife

The term “tactical knife” was coined in the mid-1990s to define a look with certain characteristics. Regarding fixed blades, the characteristics included a non-reflective blade coupled with either no guard or one of stainless steel. Some still use brass and others incorporate titanium for guards, while some use black zirconium. Currently, zirconium’s price deters both makers and collectors. If the price comes down you can expect to see more zirconium for guards. Handle materials should be synthetics, including but not limited to Micarta®, G-10 and carbon fiber. However, these three are far and away the most popular handle materials on today’s custom tactical fixed blades.

Over the past century grip materials have evolved from wood, leather washers and even cast brass and aluminum to the current synthetics. In the mid ’90s, primarily Micarta was used. Linen, paper and rag Micarta were the staples of the day. G-10 then came along, offering more colors and configurations. Over the past five years carbon fiber has increasingly become a handle material of choice.

The non-reflective blade was accomplished through several methods, the most common being a belt satin finish. As the name implies the finish was applied simply by using a sanding belt. This gave the blade a good-looking surface that was not reflective.

Key Tactical Knife Feature: Non-Reflective Finish

Another method was sand blasting. While providing a non-reflective finish, this technique had a problem. The sand created micro pits in the steel. The pits held moisture, leading to blade rust. That led to replacing the sand with silicon glass beads that did not leave pits and produced a more even, flat-gray, non-reflective finish.

Walter Brend and BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Chris Reeve were early proponents of techniques previously used on firearms to blacken their blades/knives.
Chris utilized a black Gun-Kote® finish early on, and Chris Reeve Knives still does today. Brend was asked to produce blades with a black finish and he used Parkerizing to do it. Both finishes were/are subject to scratches. The scratches were especially noticeable when the knife was combined with a Kydex sheath.

Today finishes such as those from Cerakote® and other specialty outfits can provide choices not only of color but also of surface designs for your blade.

See More Tactical Knives at BLADE Show West

The world’s biggest and best knife show, BLADE Show, is coming to Portland, Oregon, from Oct. 5 to 7, 2018.

Find show information and buy tickets here >>

How to Sharpen a Serrated Knife

Knife Collecting

Abe Elias

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February 6, 2021

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How to Sharpen a Serrated Knife: Quick Tips

Use a small sharpening rod
Lock the rod into a “gullet,” the groove of the serration
Work the rod with slow, smooth motions away from the knife, applying light pressure
Work the rod in one direction; don’t rub it back and forth
Don’t sharpen wider than the serration

Sharpening Rods are Musts for Sharpening Serrated Knives

No matter what edge style of knife you carry, it must be sharpened. In the case of serrated blades, you need specialized tools, called sharpening rods.

Some rods, like the ones you’ll typically find in a kitchen, are large. Those won’t be helpful for working with small serrations. You need to find a small rod that will lock into place inside the serration. Don’t worry about sizing, though. Most small sharpening rods are tapered so that you’ll have the right fit no matter what.

Practice Makes Perfect

Learning how to sharpen serrated knives is like any other technique—you need practice to get good at it. I recommend buying some cheap knives and practicing before you move on to your $200 Spyderco. Also, remember that not all diamond sharpeners are created equal. Diamonds are manufactured and certain diamonds are more durable than others—then again, that’s a topic for a different time.

Know Your Geometry

There are a couple of key points about geometry for learning how to sharpen a knife with serrations.

As with a plain edge, you are polishing a surface. In the case of serrated blades, there are two geometries to work.

One is the gullet. The gullet is the internal section that normally has a curved shape between the points of a serrated edge. Since sharp gullets are necessary, many people mistakenly focus too much on the gullets and not enough on the teeth of the pattern. The teeth do the initial entry into the material and begin the cut.

Hence, when sharpening serrated blades you not only polish the gullet of the serration but also re-point the teeth at the same time. Much like sharpening a saw, you reform the teeth and restore the geometry of the teeth along with the geometry of the gullet.

Four Sharpeners for Sharpening Serrated Rods

How to sharpen serrated knives — From left, with manufacturer’s suggested retail prices in parentheses: Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener ($11.99); Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener ($7.99); GATCO Scepter 2.0 ($25.95); and DMT Diafold Serrated Sharpener ($32.99). The knife is the author’s Spyderco Civilian.

Serrated knife sharpeners — The foursome in the closed position, from left: GATCO Scepter 2.0, DMT Diafold Serrated Sharpener, Smith’s Diamond
Retractable Sharpener and Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener.

Here’s a good place to start. Our lineup of four sharpeners consists of the GATCO Scepter 2.0, Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener, DMT Diafold serrated sharpener and Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener.

GATCO Scepter 2.0

Serrated knife sharpening tips — The GATCO is a bit of a multi-tool with, from
right, a carbide sharpener, diamond cone and a ferrocerium rod all in one.

Of the four, the GATCO Scepter 2.0 is more multi-tool than sharpener only.

If you are into gadgets that serve more than one purpose, the Scepter 2.0 is for you. It has two tungsten-carbide blades for sharpening, a ferrocerium rod and a diamond cone sharpener. All are in a compact package that resembles a tactical pen. The diamond rod has a groove for sharpening fishhooks.

The cone has a medium-grade texture and a broad taper. The cone is 3.75 inches long and tapers from .113 to .392 of an inch in diameter. Why does the taper matter? If the taper is steep, during sharpening you will have a shorter cut as the cone will get too wide too quickly for some smaller serrations. Overall length: 6.125 inches.

If you’re looking for a sharpener as an everyday carry tool, the Scepter 2.0 is a good choice. The cone is a bit chunky but works fine for all but the smallest serrations. I am not a big fan of carbide sharpening blades because they hog off a lot of metal, though I don’t mind them on rough cutting tools. I haven’t had the Scepter long enough to testify to the durability of the diamond cone but so far it is holding up well.

Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener

Sharpen a serrated knife — The Smith’s rod has three surfaces—flat, conical and round (inset)—to tackle any number of sharpening jobs. The flat surface in combination with the diamond cone makes it easy to sharpen combo-edge blades.

Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener is the trimmest of the group and looks like a pen when collapsed. It is possible to use the cone shape to sharpen a plain edge, but with the Smith’s model the diamond coated sharpener has two ends.

One end has a flat section and the other is tapered for serrated edges. Of the group the Smith’s hone has the most aggressive grit. The body of the holder is aluminum and has a pen clip. (The GATCO Scepter could use a pen clip to complete it.) Closed length: 5.187 inches.

Again, I could see this tool in someone’s EDC kit, a tackle box or camping gear. At the tip the cone measures .06 inch and at the widest point .256 inch in diameter. With such a fine tip expanding in size over its 2.375-inch length, the Smith’s hone sharpens a wide range of serration styles. At a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $7.99, it does not have to last a lifetime to pay for itself.

DMT Diafold

The DMT Diafold serrated sharpener comes in three color-coded grits: coarse (blue) 325 mesh or 45 micron, fine (red) 600 mesh or 25 micron, and X fine (green) 1200 mesh or 9 micron. I used the red.

Of the quartet it was the longest, finest-grit tapered cone. Overall length: 4.5 inches. It tapers in diameter from .62 inch at the tip to .25 inch at the base.

To store the sharpening cone DMT uses a folding handle system similar to a butterfly knife. The handle is a clear polycarbonate. At 5 inches closed and as with the others the Diafold is compact enough to be EDC’d.

I’ve had a number of DMT Diafolds over the years and they are still in working order. You have to use some of the diamond sharpeners a lot before they will wear out. I will say when open, the very appearance of the Diafold can send shivers down your spine as it resembles an icepick. It works well and if you like something with a fuller handle to it, a Diafold might be your shtick.

Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener

Accusharp serrated knife sharpener — Accusharp uses a friction fit to hold the Diamond Compact Sharpener open and closed.

The Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener is 3.125 inches long with inch diameters of .06 at the tip and .305 at the base. A plastic body with a rubberized coating houses the unit—definitely low tech and follows the K.I.S.S. principle. A friction fit holds the sharpener open and closed. The fit is tight and you don’t have to worry about the two sides separating accidentally. An integral pen clip is on the main body’s housing. The clip doesn’t seem robust and I can see it eventually snapping off.

The sharpener has a medium-grit diamond coating and functioned well during testing. Accusharp includes a hook groove I find rather large. Maybe it’s for big fish. The closed length is the shortest of the group: 4.75 inches.

I like the design because as with the Smith’s sharpener it appears to be a standard pen as opposed to the GATCO model’s large-tactical-pen look. If you want to carry a sharpener and not let anyone know you have one so you aren’t constantly loaning it out, the Smith’s might be the ticket. As far as feel, the handle diameter is nice and comfortable.

BLADE Magazine