The Beauty Of Handmade Kitchen Knives

Handmade Kitchen Knives Reimagine What A Kitchen Knife Can Be

Don Nguyen didn’t know what he wanted from life when he was in college. An evening cooking at a friend’s apartment changed him forever. He was frustrated using his friend’s subpar, dull knives and wanted something better.

“It was that weird moment sharpening at a friend’s place where I said ‘I’m tired of this,’” Nguyen recalled. “I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, and those videos led me from sharpening to seeing Japanese makers make knives. I didn’t know what I wanted to do in life at that point so I was like OK, I want to do this. I dove in from there.”

Dive in he did, and now Nguyen has been making handmade kitchen knives, also commonly called custom kitchen knives, since 2017. He’s one of many makers entering the growing kitchen knife space and finding success.

Custom Kitchen Knife Advantage

Of course, the biggest difference between factory makers and custom makers is scale. A company like Wusthof can turn around hundreds of new knives every month. By contrast, Nguyen and his assistant complete a knife every one to two weeks. This allows for more delicate work when it comes to the actual knifemaking and makes getting different steels much easier.

Large Carbon Gyuto. Steel: 52100. Price: $3700

“Right now we’re probably averaging one knife every two weeks depending on the complexity, but we’re working on multiple knives at once so it’s hard to dictate how long a single knife takes,” Nguyen said. “I have an assistant and he helps me work on a bunch of stuff. We’re juggling projects all the time.

“I don’t have a lot of steel that I need to go through, and the steel choices I tend to use aren’t exotic steels. I go with 52100 for the most part for carbon steel knives. When I go with stainless I go with AEB-L or RWL-34. Those are fairly accessible. They’re usually in stock.”

Why Buy A Handmade Kitchen Knife?

When you talk to him, Nguyen’s passion is clear, and even with that passion, a big question remains: why should someone spend money on handmade kitchen knives instead of buying from a well-known factory maker?

He spoke honestly about how handmade kitchen knives won’t be for everyone, but for those who want them, they want only the best.

“Custom knives are made for a specific type of person,” Nguyen said. “They need to have food as their hobby. If they don’t like cooking all that much, they aren’t the intended audience for that. But if you love food, you follow it, buy books, read up on chefs, then you get into custom knives. Then you get knives in the [top] percentile of performance that are unique, made by someone you admire.”

Steel Sharpens Steel

As more makers enter the market, finding out ways to make your knives that are little bit better than your competitors has become the key to knifemaking. So much so that, according to Nguyen, many makers are working on what the knife does after it cuts the food.

“There’s a lot of interesting trends in knifemaking and the pursuit of the last 1 percent in performance,” Nguyen said. “A lot of makers now are working on food release. Being able to cut the food and having it pop off the [blade] without any effort at all. That’s a huge difference between a knife you buy off the shelf and a custom-made knife.”

Nguyen is one of the highly-skilled makers producing handmade kitchen knives. The below makers are also making exciting knives.

Best Handmade Kitchen Knife Makers

Mert Tansu

Nine-inch Damasteel gyuto in Heimskringla pattern. Price: $1,100

A former executive chef, Mert Tansu has been making remarkable kitchen knives in his native Australia for several years, learning to forge san-mai and damascus, and officially hung up his chef’s coat in 2018 to focus solely on making knives. 

His current knives are made in the Japanese tradition and fetch a tidy price, but the craftsmanship is clear from the moment you lay eyes on the blade.

Mareko Maumasi

4″ Phoenix Rising Mosaic Damascus Brute de Forge Bench Knife. Price: $650

Located in Washington state, Maumasi apprenticed under Bob Kramer, who we’ll talk about shortly, and makes multiple types of knives. He’s made many a wild damascus piece as well, and is a magician at working the steel to create exciting patterns.

“I think he’s one of the best makers out right now,” Nguyen said of Maumasi. “I talk with him all the time about business strategy, techniques, everything we’re going through.”

Bob Kramer

Meiji 10″ Chef’s Knives by Zwilling J.A. Henckels. Price: $379.99

He worked as a professional chef for a decade before asking himself “why can’t I and other chefs keep our knives sharp?” 

That question led him down the path to becoming one of the most accomplished makers of custom kitchen knives in the country. Kramer earned the title of ABS master smith in 1998, and since then he’s been “devoted … to the single-minded pursuit of crafting the perfect kitchen knife.”

His Kramer Knives not only turns out top-tier blades, but now features a small team to help keep the company strong and growing for decades to come. Additionally, his company has licensing agreements with a handful of major knife companies including Zwilling J.A. Henckels.

Andreas Kalani

The Dahlia. Price: $175

Andreas Kalani spent nearly a decade teaching himself the craft of knifemaking. He took his lumps and learned from his mistakes. Those years of trial and error have paid off as Kalani is now an accomplished knifemaker.

He makes beautiful Japanese-style knives as well as other kitchen utensils. Kalani even makes hunting knives and tools for skinning and processing your hunt. It all started with a dream for Kalani, and it has paid off handsomely thus far.

Will Brigham

Pattern-welded Sepharim Knife

Knives from Will Brigham are just as much art as they are kitchen tools. He specializes in pattern-welded damascus and mokume-gane knives. His sells his knives through his company, The Artificery, and he’s pushing hard to make the most distinctive damascus designs and highest-quality blades.

“Will Brigham is making crazy stainless steel damascus,” Nguyen said. “I think he’s kind  of the pioneer of modern stainless steel damascus.”

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What Not To Ask A Knifemaker?

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Just As Important As Knowing What To Ask A Knifemaker When Looking To Buy A Knife, Is What To Not Ask A Knifemaker.

Editor’s note: Last time we outlined the questions you should ask the maker. This time, we cover some of the things that you either probably should not ask—or at least should think through thoroughly before doing so. You can read part 1 here.

Custom knifemakers are, for the most part, reasonable people. Actually, they’re a pretty likable lot. Engage one in conversation and it’s likely to be a pleasant experience.

Ask a maker about a knife and the discussion enters another dimension, particularly if it develops into one between a seller and potential buyer. Questions are part of the exchange of information, and just about any inquiry is fair. However, it pays to be courteous and respectful and to remember that courtesy and respect go both ways.

So, are there questions that are off limits when discussing the merits of a custom knifemaker’s work, their background, experience, or perspective? What are the potential hot buttons and how much is too much when it comes to probing a maker? Well, if you have to ask yourself whether a question is appropriate, then think twice about asking it. If it might not sit well with you on the receiving end, just remember those principles of kindness and respect.

How Long Did It Take?

“Asking a maker how long it took to make a knife is not polite etiquette,” offered veteran Vince Evans, “and it could also be misleading. An experienced maker may take 40 hours to make a really nice piece, whereas a beginner may spend 100-plus hours and come out with a poorly executed knife. On more complex knives and swords, the process may take months, or even years, to complete. So, a maker may not keep track of how many hours he has in a piece.”

David Broadwell has more than 40 years of experience making custom knives, and the time factor is always a bit contentious for him. “This is probably the most often asked question of me,” he said candidly. “I don’t know how long it takes! I don’t punch a time clock on each project. Most of my knives are fairly complex, and I do each step or operation until it’s right, regardless of the time. Simpler knives are easier to track with regard to the time involved.

“Another thing related to time,” David continued, “is that it’s easy for someone to start believing that because I, for example, with four decades of experience in grinding, can make a knife more quickly than another maker, so I should charge less per hour. But that’s not a fair comparison. I have all that experience, so some operations are quicker for me—but I should be paid for that experience.”

 Before asking if a price on a knife is negotiable, take stock in the possible outcome of the query before making it. “In some cases, you will insult them,” said custom knife purveyor Dan Delavan (right), here with fellow purveyor Dave Ellis at the 2021 BLADE Show West. “But on the last day of a show, some makers may give a better deal.”

From a practical standpoint, BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Dan Delavan of plazacutlery.com added, “It doesn’t hurt to ask, but most makers make knives in batches, so it’s hard to say.”

Even if the potential purchaser is bold enough to ask about the investment of time in a particular knife, the response may not be helpful. “It may not give you the answer you’re looking for,” commented longtime purveyor Les Robertson, “Why? Often the time to make a knife will depend on the maker’s experience level, the equipment in their shop, and the complexity of the knife. There is no set time for how long a particular knife should take to build.”

How Did You Make It?

Beyond the time element, looking at a particular knife may prompt questions of a sensitive nature, particularly about the process itself. When credibility is on the line, what should the potential buyer do?

“Hmm, I’d say watch his eyes and study his body language,” Broadwell advised, “and, of course, a buyer needs to educate himself to be able to spot fakery.”

It’s up to the buyer to educate himself in order to judge the truthfulness of answers concerning how a knife is made. One way to do that is to attend such knifemaking classes as those at BLADE University at the BLADE Show. Wally Hostetter shows students how to do the Japanese sword handle wrap at a past BLADE U.

Most often the knifemaker’s work speaks for itself and to an educated buyer the quality or lack of quality in a handmade knife is readily apparent, but there are telltale signs when the presenter is blowing smoke. “If he or she does not look you in the eye, it’s a good indication,” Delavan related. “Hesitancy in the voice is a tip-off as well.”

Developing rapport is a big part of any relationship, and becoming friendly with custom knifemakers is often part of the enjoyment of buying and collecting their work. Still, personalities vary. The outgoing, talkative individual and the introverted, quiet one may accept inquiries on a different level, and of course, there are the pressing factors of time commitment—particularly during shows. Monopolizing a maker’s table time is bad etiquette when he or she has other customers or prospects to interact with. So keep it polite and to the point with an awareness of the clock.

What Knife Do You Carry?

One of the more interesting questions for a custom knifemaker might revolve around the knife the maker carries. You may be going out on a limb, putting the maker on the spot, or even offending him if you want to know what’s in his pocket. Ask at your own risk!

“I’ve always been surprised to find out a custom folder maker was carrying a factory knife,” Robertson observed. “This made no sense to me. Carrying a folder made by them would allow the makers to field test their knives regularly. For makers who build larger fixed blades, it can be difficult to carry these knives regularly. However, if they hunt, camp or fish, they should be using their knife, again to field test it. I feel it gives the maker more legitimacy when they tell what their knives can and cannot do.”

Broadwell added, “This is very important to me. Personally, I believe if a maker carries on his person a knife from another knifemaker or a factory, he is saying, especially to the newer and less educated buyers, that knife is better than the one he makes. That is not good salesmanship and marketing of your own brand.”

Are Your Prices Negotiable?

 If the makers hunt, camp or fish, they should be using their knife, again to field test it. “I feel it gives the maker more legitimacy when they tell what their knives can and cannot do,” Robertson stated. Ed Burke’s big fixed blade should be right at home in camp. (SharpByCoop image)

Possibly the biggest question of all relates to pricing. Is it OK, fair, chippy, or downright irritating to ask a custom knifemaker if a price for a certain piece is negotiable? Once more, depending on the depth of the existing relationship between maker and potential buyer, take stock of the possible outcome of the query before making it.

“In some cases, you will insult them,” Delavan said bluntly. “But on the last day of a show, some makers may give a better deal.”

Robertson sees a subjective exercise in the dollar dilemma. “Pricing is something each knifemaker must figure out for themselves,” he remarked. “As the buyer, you need to educate yourself as to what it takes to build a particular style of knife. This will help you determine what you feel the price of the knife should be. My advice to knifemakers is to price their knives according to their position in the marketplace they are competing in. By doing so, you are offering your work at a fair price, and you should not lower your price. As the buyer, you can ask the maker to lower their price, but don’t do so just because you think you should haggle on the price of a knife. You are not buying knives at a flea market.”

Tact and diplomacy work better than the “ready, fire, aim” approach. Knowing something about the knifemaker may indicate whether the door is open for negotiation. “This is a tricky question,” Broadwell said. “If the buyer is polite and respectful, it’s all right to ask. However, if the maker does not want to bargain, it should be dropped. What ticks makers off is a potential buyer who says he will just give such and such for a knife and that that’s all it’s worth. That’s arrogant and disrespectful!”

Concerning guarantees and 100-percent buybacks—the latter involving the maker buying the knife back from you if you buy it but then don’t want it—consider the accountability on both sides. 

Choose Wisely

Like so many interactions between two people, the questions asked and answered relating to custom knives revolve around the delivery. Mutual understanding is essential. One individual is plowing his or her hard-earned money into the purchase of a knife, while the other is expected to accept payment for the time that is gone forever, and for the cost of materials, equipment, shop, and general overhead.

Choose words and ask questions wisely—always.

Editor’s note: In the final analysis, it’s your money that’s involved in a knife purchase, and the questions you ask a maker about their knife you are considering buying are up to you. One thing to remember: If it’s a knife you simply must have and you ask a question that is out of bounds and upsets the maker, the chances of you having that knife may be nil to none—not to mention the chances of you buying any knife directly from that maker in the future.

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A Day At The New England Bladesmithing Symposium

Knifemakers From Around North America Came To Auburn, Maine For The 2022 New England Bladesmithing Symposium

The 12th annual New England Bladesmithing Symposium brought nearly 100 knifemakers and enthusiasts together for the first hammer-in since 2019.

The event ran from July 15-17 in Auburn, Maine at the New England School of Metalwork and featured classes and workshops galore. Throughout the weekend there was something to scratch any itch you may have had about knives.

Master Smith Lin Rhea presented a tutorial on how to make his dynamic X-Rhea knife. There were workshops on everything from how to build out your knifemaking business to forging recurves. 

It was a brutally hot Saturday in the Pine Tree State, yet it didn’t dampen spirits, particularly for the main event– the Battle of the Bladesmiths. The 2-hour competition to pushed four makers to their limits, and drew the largest crowds and interest.

Learning From The Best

The classroom at the NESM is covered wall to wall with tools and other metalwork made by past students just like this.

During the afternoon I was able to drop into a few of the classes. The one I got the most out of was led by Master Smith Christoph Deringer. 

Derringer class about the anatomy of the knife was a joy, particularly the care he gave answering questions. His wry sense of humor even out, like when he called flux a crutch pertaining to forge welds. In that particular case, he suggested simply listening to the metal and letting it guide you when you forge weld, no flux is needed.

He taught everyone a neat trick for adding patina to a blade, as well. The crux, you hang the knife above a piece of heated copper. Heating the copper causes it to emit gasses that rise up and patina the blade to an almost bronze color.

A Successful Weekend

It was a big weekend for the school, gathering makers from the Northeast, Eastern Canada, and even as far west as California. For NESM director Dereck Glaser, it was a successful weekend, particularly given the COVID-related lapse in the symposium the past few years.

“The school, in general, draws from around New England,” Glaser said. “I’m excited to see more Canadians here, to be honest. We can’t forget we have a whole other country on our border. I can’t be pulling students out of the Atlantic Ocean so Canada’s a really good option.”

It’s important for anyone with even a passing interest in knifemaking to visit their local school and learn. Not only can you save yourself toil and trouble, but supporting the broader community of makers helps it survive and thrive even in the lean times.

Journeyman smith Mace Vitale runs a workshop on handle shaping.

“It saves exponentially the number of years,” Glaser said. “Indebting yourself to a week and about $600 could potentially save you 3-5 years of trial and error on your own. The amount of compressed skill and support you get in 4-5 days of a course, answering those questions that’ll take 3-5 years to figure out on your own.”

Glaser said that even with the uncertain economy, he believes the future of the school and knifemaking is bright because the passion is boundless.

“The fiscal issues we’re having is making it rough. It’s 90+ percent an enthusiast kind of hobby and craft for most people,” Glaser said. “Where inflation and cost of living’s gone, everyone’s seeing a toll in the crafts. We’re even seeing it in the welding, which is an employment-based skill. But on a whole, I  think the energy is still there. The love for it is greater than ever. A lot of people did a lot of things to better themselves in it through the pandemic, so I think coming out on the other end I think people are kind of stronger.”

The Passion For Knives

A nice bit of camraderie. Two of the battle contestants Leo Potter (in the hat) and Jeremy Yelle share a fun moment ahead of the contest.

As informative and enlightening as the classes were the attendee’s conversations. Everyone was excited, whether it was to learn from a particular smith, show off a piece they made, or for the battle at night, everyone was open and welcoming.

A Previous winner of the Battle of the Bladesmiths, Emiliano Carrillo (owner of Sun and Stars Forge), was particularly poetic in what he said about the process of making his own steel.

“When I started the smelt earlier in the day the sand runs through my fingers, and by the time the day’s done it’s a lump of material that can be turned into something,” the owner of Massachusetts-based Sun and Stars Forge said. “It goes from being this throwaway material to something that’s actually useful. I think that’s crazy. It really is alchemy to me. It’s addictive. You do it and it works and you do it again and again and it breaks your heart, and then you have some successes.”

The day ended with the battle. Four young smiths were tasked with turning a one-foot bar of 1084 into a complete knife in just two hours. You can read all about the contest here.

In total, the symposium was absolutely worth the trip and should be on your checklist if you’re a serious maker in the Northeast U.S. or Eastern Canada.

To learn more about the New England School of Metalwork, click here.

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What To Ask A Knifemaker

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From Forging And Picking The Right Materials To Putting Together The Fairest Return Policy And How To Run Your Business, There Are Many Questions Fledgling Knifemakers Should Ask Veterans.

This is the first of a multi-part series about knifemaking

When you consider buying a custom knife, certain questions come to mind. Some are easier asked and certainly more easily answered than others. However, anytime money is forked over in exchange for a handmade, well-built knife, an exchange of information takes place. Still, there may be a fine line between the ordinary, the somewhat sensitive and the downright invasive.

BLADE® asked some well-established custom knifemakers and purveyors what they thought about playing 20 questions with a prospective buyer. In this round of discussion, we’ll tackle those questions that should be asked and answered.

Testing And Heat Treating

I like the questions about testing and heat treating,” commented American Bladesmith Society (ABS) master smith Mike Quesenberry. “As for heat treating, it’s good to know what the maker does. Do they do the work themselves, and what type of heat treating do they do? Is it in a forge, heat-treating oven, do they use a salt pot? Then, on the performance aspect of the knife, is the maker doing any testing, taking it out and beating it or something else depending on the intended use of the knife?”

Veteran ABS master smith and mosaic damascus pioneer Steve Schwarzer agrees. The heat-treating query is near the top of his list. If the makers did the heat treating, did they do it themselves? 

“If so, have each maker explain the method. It is perfectly acceptable to ask this question because it is the heart of the blade,” Steve reasoned. “If the maker did not heat treat the blade, ask who did and check the reliability of the heat treater.”

 When buying a hunting knife, it’s fair to ask if the makers are hunters themselves or use their own knives in the field. J.C. Provost’s hunter features a 4-inch blade of CPM 154 stainless and scrim by Joanna Provost. (SharpByCoop image)

Authorship

The origin of the steel itself, the aspect of sole authorship, and even asking a bit about the maker’s background is perfectly reasonable, according to longtime purveyor Les Robertson.

“Did the maker do all of the work on the knife? If not, which part of the process is outsourced and why?” Les offered. “If certain aspects of the maker’s knife are being outsourced, this may not be a true custom knife. There can be a fine line between a custom knife and a mid-tech knife. Often, makers grind knives in batches. Consequently, it is more efficient time-wise and more economical to send the blades to a reputable heat treater.

“If the knife features a forged type of blade, especially when it comes to damascus, ask the maker if he forged the steel,” Robertson added. “This question is more germane to those makers not in the American Bladesmith Society. Several people specialize in making damascus for makers to use in their work. Most do an excellent job and offer patterns that will give your knife a unique look. Asking the makers if they belong to a particular knifemakers’ organization is a fair question. But you, as the buyer, should understand what requirements have to be met to belong to the organization and attain certain ratings in each.”

How They Do It

Methods, maker preferences, and perspectives are good areas to probe when discussing the makers’ work. How do they do their thing day in and day out?  

“I think buyers should ask whether a knifemaker is a stock removal maker or forger,” said award-winning maker David Broadwell. “That will start to determine what kind of knives people will want. But then, it may not make any difference as long as they like the knife and the maker. Then, the knifemaker should be asked if he or she does all their own work, and if not, what is done outside their shop. This is to determine honesty on the knifemaker’s part. There are other things to ask as well to get to know the knifemaker—full or part-time, family. I like people to know who I am.”

Knifemaker Guarantees

Purchases are often made with the understanding of a guarantee, a buy-back to ensure customer satisfaction. 

“You can ask, but I don’t fault anyone if they don’t offer a [buy-back] guarantee,” Broadwell noted. “You can’t buy most any product, say a Harley-Davidson motorcycle, and decide you don’t like cruiser bikes and expect your money back! A deal is a deal, as they say. Now, some makers specialize in multiples of given models, and they may be happy to take a return if they believe they’ll sell it right away.”

The components that make the knife sometimes have a bearing as well. After stressing the sole-authorship point, BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Dan Delavan of plazacutlery.com finds a warranty to be reasonable in some circumstances, and then adds a question on components as important to the sales equation.

“Warranty? Just workmanship,” Delavan offered. “The maker cannot guarantee materials as they shrink and expand. The maker should be willing to repair for a charge. Then, does he or she do all the work, and if not, what is done by others? Does the maker bring in outside parts that he or she does not make on her own, examples being such as parts that are made in China or elsewhere, even in the USA? Is the maker able to make modifications?”

For Robertson, the concept of a guarantee is implicit in the trust that develops between maker and buyer. An understanding of care and use is necessary when the question of the guarantee is posed.

“A lifetime guarantee comes with certain responsibilities for both the maker and the buyer,” Les related. “The makers should guarantee the work with regards to their craftsmanship and materials used. Your responsibility as the buyer is to use the knife as it was intended to be used. During normal use, if the blade breaks, yes, the maker should build you a new knife. Now, if you are using a folder as a pry bar and the blade breaks, you are not using the knife for its intended purpose. Subsequently, that is your fault and the maker does not owe you a new knife.”

Genre Specific

Vince Evans

Some makers specialize in historical pieces, reproductions of knives and swords that reflect the times in which the originals were active. Such situations might influence the dialogue between maker and buyer, according to maker Vince Evans.

“My little corner of the field is very different from most other makers,” he explained. “My work is mostly ‘historical’ in nature, so questions to ask could be, ‘Can you tell me more about this piece?’ or ‘What culture is this piece based on?’ or ‘Is this sword based on a specific find?’ When I first met [Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame writer] Ken Warner years ago at the BLADE Show, he walked up and asked, ‘Am I looking at antiques or did you make these?’

“When it comes to period pieces, a telltale sign that a maker hasn’t seen or handled an antique knife or sword is that his rendition is oversized or overweight. Most antique swords, daggers and knives were much more petite and delicate than you would imagine. I encourage makers to study original pieces firsthand, even if it is through a glass case in a museum, before making a period piece. Photos in books and online do not give you a true feel for the original, although many resources do give you measurements and weight. There is no substitute to studying originals firsthand.”

The genre or style that a maker pursues is often the first indicator that a discussion is at hand. Catching the customer’s eye naturally leads to inquiries. When conversation surrounds a custom order, there must be clear understanding related to the finished knife.

“There has to be an exchange between the maker and the customer,” Quesenberry noted, “and that relates directly to how the knife will be used. If it’s a hunting knife, will the customer be skinning only, or will they be breaking bone with it? The customer has to ask what the maker’s knife is intended to do, or if the maker can produce the using knife the customer wants.”

Communication is the key for both parties to be satisfied with the outcome of the buy-sell arrangement. For example, when purchasing a hunting knife, it’s fair to ask if the makers are hunters themselves or use their own knives in the field. 

“Sure,” Delavan smiled, “but in some cases the knives can be too expensive for the maker to use. Most knifemakers are not rich!”

Knifemaking Mentors

One of the most important questions to ask makers relates to their background, where they learned their craft—particularly who their mentor, or mentors, in the industry might be. Identification of those who introduced makers to their life’s work or helped bring their skill set along will provide an insight into philosophy, work ethic and mindset, and, ultimately, quality.

“Ask who their mentors are,” Schwarzer advocated. “This is especially important if the maker is forging blades.” 

 Several people specialize in making damascus for makers to use in their work. Most do an excellent job and offer patterns that will give your knife a unique look. Del Ealy forged the ladder-pattern damascus for the Angel’s Wing art dagger by Steve Vanderkolff. (Caleb Royer image)

Added Quesenberry, “It’s always good to know a guy’s background and the schools they went to and whether the makers continue to educate themselves on newer methods or techniques, or are they becoming stagnant? Do they want to up their game and experiment with different things?” 

Chipped in Broadwell, “Of course, I’m proud of the men who shared information and helped me in my earlier years, and if I learn something new I’m happy to share that person’s help as well.”

Open Dialogue

The best approach to discussing the buying or selling of a knife is for both maker and potential purchaser to have mutual respect for one another. In the end, talk may be cheap. However, real, honest and open dialogue develops trust and assurance that the process is working for each party.

Ask questions. Consider responses. Come to informed conclusions, and remember that the entire experience revolves around the knife itself, its quality, materials, looks, and price tag. Most makers welcome questions and are willing to provide candid answers. In that alone, the level of assurance is elevated.

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The Soft-Backed Blade

For Maximum Toughness Without Sacrificing Edge Performance, Consider A Soft-Backed Blade.

For centuries, smiths from various cultures recognized the necessity of blades that do the job without critical failure. Some Eastern cultures specialized in differential hardening, particularly the Japanese. European cultures tended to forge weld a hardenable edge to a softer spine. In each case, the end result is an edge hard enough to cut well and a spine tough and resistant to breaking.

One of the measures of a modern knifemaker is the willingness and ability to successfully navigate the certifications processes of the world of knives, such as the American Bladesmith Society’s (ABS) journeyman and master smith certifications. Similarly, one measure of a knife blade is its ability to perform various tasks that put its edge geometry and heat treatment to the test. 

If you’ve been around the knife industry any time in the past 40 years or so, you’ve no doubt seen stories of blades that demonstrate edge holding ability that also have the strength and flexibility to bend without breaking. The key to this kind of performance is for the blade to have a hard edge and a soft back. Pardon the pun, but let’s break that down a bit.

First things first—a knife must cut. One key to premier cutting performance is a well-hardened edge. A properly hardened edge comes from the use of steel with adequate carbon, brought to the proper hardening temperature, quenched in the proper quench medium, and tempered to the proper hardness.

Each of these variables has an impact, but at the end of the day if the maker does things right, the edge of a well-performing blade will be hardened and tempered martensite in the 58 to 60 HRC Rockwell hardness range, plus or minus a point or two depending on geometry. If the edge is left too soft, the blade will not cut as it should.

Shawn Ellis originally learned the edge hardening process from ABS master smith Jim Crowell in the early 1990s when Jim—here at the grinder—demonstrated edge hardening using an acetylene torch. (Jay Morrissey image)

But what about the blade’s spine? Does it need to be as hard as the edge? The answer is “it depends.” Hardness as a metallurgical property is directly opposed to toughness, in that the harder the blade the more brittle it is. At the same time, an unhardened blade of annealed steel is very difficult to break but won’t hold an edge. If the maker hardens the blade fully from edge to spine, the knife will be more likely to break under chopping or bending loads.

Let me talk about “more likely” in this case. Are you more likely to be struck by lightning or bitten by a shark? As it turns out, you’re about 7.5 times more likely to be struck by lightning than bitten by a shark, but the odds of being struck are only 1 in 500,000. Either way, neither is very likely. I state that because while it is empirically true that a fully hardened blade is “more likely” to break than a blade with a soft back and hardened edge, if the maker does the heat treatment properly and the user uses the blade properly, either will perform very well with a very low risk of catastrophic failure.

Soft-Backed Bennies

Even if the overall risk of breaking in normal use is small, it still makes sense that some makers want to chase that last bit of performance by taking advantage of the strength of the soft-backed blade. So what does a soft-backed blade do? What are the benefits? By hardening the edge but intentionally softening the spine, the blade is more resistant to breaking when subjected to extreme force. This remains true whether the force comes to the blade parallel as in chopping or perpendicular as in bending.  

ABS journeyman smith and past Forged in Fire champion Shawn Ellis is a proponent of the soft-backed blade. He originally learned the edge hardening process from ABS master smith Jim Crowell in the early 1990s when Jim demonstrated edge hardening using an acetylene torch. 

He heated the edge only, quenched the blade, and then used the torch to draw the temper back. To temper, he started with the torch at the spine and used a wet rag to keep the edge cool. When he was finished, the edge was a light bronze and the spine was blue.

Even though that was quite a few years ago, the method Crowell taught Ellis remains viable. Heating only the edge  leaves the spine soft and annealed but transforms the edge into the tempered martensite required for cutting performance. Using the torch afterward to “blue back” the blade relieves any internal stresses that may result from heating only the edge to the critical temperature, that is, to a non-magnetic state. 

Ellis found that heating the blade at least a third of the way from edge to spine resulted in better performance. Subsequently, he switched to heat treating in a forge, and then later in an oven. 

While it’s possible to edge harden with a forge or an oven, the methodology changes. Edge hardening in this way results in a martensitic edge and a spine that retains the microstructure it previously had. If the blade was forged and normalized, the spine would be soft pearlite. If the blade was ground from bar stock, the spine would be spheroid carbides.

Another way to achieve a hard edge with a soft back is to quench the edge only. You can bring the whole blade up to temperature in a forge or oven, and then place only the edge of the blade in the oil for hardening. This is the method currently taught at the ABS schools. 

In this case, you need enough oil volume to cool the steel properly, so you can’t just fill your quench tank with oil to the half-inch level. Instead, use a limiter plate to keep the edge at the right depth while allowing the tank to have an increased volume of oil. You rock the blade in the oil in such a way that the edge is quenched properly while the spine cools slowly. 

The slow cooling of the spine results in a pearlite microstructure, while the quenching of the edge results in martensite. The result is again a hard edge and soft back, and a “blue back” draw is again recommended. Blades that are edge hardened are resistant to breaking, though the soft spine may bend and stay bent.

The final way to achieve a soft-backed knife is the most difficult but results in the highest performance. In this method, the blade is hardened completely, with the whole blade up to critical temperature and the whole blade quenched fully. After regular tempering in the oven, the blade is then torch tempered on the spine. 

In this scenario, the spine is pushed past blue all the way to gray, but not to the point where it starts to show heat color. Essentially in this case, you’re applying differential tempering rather than differential hardening, adding heat in the 650-800°F range to the spine only, resulting in highly tempered martensite. Since you’re working with higher temperatures, extra care must be taken to keep the edge cool by keeping it immersed in water or wet sand.

ABS master smith Scott McGhee’s Mamba damascus fighter features forge-finished flats with bronze fittings and a koa wood handle. He prefers 1075 carbon steel and uses two propane torches to draw the spine evenly, keeping the edge cool in wet sand.

ABS master smith Scott McGhee teaches the Introduction to Bladesmithing class at Haywood Community College in Haywood, North Carolina. Students learn from McGhee how to make a knife that will pass the ABS performance test using a full quench and a torch draw. He prefers 1075 carbon steel and uses two propane torches to draw the spine evenly, keeping the edge cool in wet sand.

STRUCTURAL RESULTS

I asked metallurgist Larrin Thomas for insight on the structural results of the different edge hardening approaches. According to Larrin, “When it comes to Rockwell hardness, torch tempering a fully hardened blade to 650-800°F results in hardness in the Rockwell hardness range of 45 to 55 HRC, depending on the steel and the time spent at the tempering temperature. Slow cooling the spine by quenching the edge will result in soft pearlite similar to air cooling during normalizing and grain refining. This puts the spine in the range of 20 to 40 HRC, depending on the steel. Some steels have such high hardenability that they will partially harden during air cooling, such as oil quenching steels O1 or L6, and may even reach 60 HRC if the cross section is thin enough.

“The softer the spine, the more resistant the blade is to breaking but the more likely it is to take a “set” during bending. In other words, less bending of a softer spine would be required for the blade to stay permanently bent. The ideal condition would be one where the steel has sufficient hardness to avoid staying bent but sufficient toughness where it will not fracture. This combination of properties is best achieved by a full quench and a spine torch temper.”

For many years now the certified smiths of the ABS have demonstrated competence at these processes. If you want to climb the ladder of knifemaking skills and certifications, or if you want to climb the ladder of high performance hard-use knives, the heat treatment of a soft-backed knife is a skill you’ll want to master. If you’re the kind of knifemaker or the kind of knife buyer who wants 100 percent of the toughness a blade can offer without sacrificing edge performance, consider a soft-backed blade.  

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Best Swiss Army Knife Tools

The Swiss Army Knife has become a utilitarian icon. Manufactured by Victorinox, and formerly Wegner, the knife got its name due to American GIs in World War 2 being unable to pronounce the proper German name of the name, the Offiziermesser, which translates to “officer’s knife.”

Traditionally clad in red, the color of the Swiss flag, the knife is a versatile multi-tool filled with different implements ranging from knives and screwdrivers to corkscrews and nail files. Below is a selection of some of the most useful tools in the Swiss Army Knife and some tools that are a bit more unique.

The Original Tools

The first Swiss Army Knife, simply called a Modell 1890, featured four tools. Those four are still a part of many SAK models today and immediately come to mind when you think of the tool.

Spear Point Blade

While a larger Swiss Army Knife may feature multiple blades, every model will feature a spear point. An icon in its own right, the SAK spear point will appear on the largest models all the way down to tiny ones meant for keychains.

Made of stainless steel, the spear point can cut thread just as well as it can cut meat. However, I wouldn’t want to butcher much with one that’s keychain size.

Reamer

The reamer is probably the least-known of the four original tools but is no less important. It is two functions. The first is to drill small holes into wood to give screws a head start. The second is to help with sewing. The hole in the middle of the tool is meant to be used to slide thread through to help give a stable anchor point while sewing materials together.

While this might not be the most necessary tool today at home, it’s incredibly important for a soldier on the march or on the battlefield.

Screwdriver.

Nowadays you can find some Swiss Army Knives with as many as four different screwdrivers inside. They all can tie their lineage to the screwdriver that made it onto the original model. Important for a soldier trying to fix a rifle in battle, important to a homeowner trying to reinstall an outlet cover in the kitchen, the screwdriver is one of the implements that sets the SAK, and other multi tools apart from other types of tools.

Can Opener.

Yet again, a great all-rounder tool with military use in mind. A can opener is a necessary tool for a soldier to have in the field to open rations. While most homes today have either a crank or an electric can opener, the original handheld version still remains in many Swiss Army Knives.

Other Necessary Tools

Swiss Tool X Plus Ratchet

Some of the larger Swiss Army Knives today have as many as 15 layers and dozens of tools inside of them. As the knives have grown larger, so has the roster of tools within them. These may not be the originals, but they sure are just as useful.

Needle Nose Pliers

Great for prying and pulling things apart, the needle-nose pliers are a standard tool in the larger SAK models. As the knives became more and more associated with outdoorsmen and tradesmen, the tools evolved to meet those demands.

Made of stainless like so many of the other tools, it’s a great pair of pliers, and the fact that they fold away into the knives makes them invaluable when you’re outdoors.

Saws

Over the years the SAK has grown to include multiple types of saws. The main two are a wood saw and a metal saw. The wood saw is a smaller version of a classic handheld saw, great for cutting small pieces of wood or through small, thin brush.

The metal saw features files on both sides, which compare to a standard, flat file. The serrated edge is analogous to a hacksaw. It will cut through metal, but it’ll take a while to do it.

Scissors

What’s better than a pair of scissors? If you’re looking to cut paper or fabric, not much. That’s why scissors are included today on the largest Swiss Army Knife (38 tools) and the smallest (seven tools). 

Like the majority of the other tools, it’s made of stainless steel. Of course, they are quite small so it’ll take a minute or two to finish cutting, but when you need scissors no other tool can match up.

Toothpick

Currently a standard tool on the smaller SAK models, the toothpick is great because no one likes having food stuck in their teeth. Unlike most of the other tools in the knives, this one is not made from metal. It’s made from hard plastic and slides out of the body of the knife. However, it is easy to clean and stow back away so while it may seem like a reusable toothpick might not be the most sanitary tool, Victorinox has engineered it in such a way that it is easy to disinfect.

The Outrageous Tools

Over the years there have been plenty of tools in the Swiss Army Knife that range from maybe being a bit overkill to being completely out of left field. Two of these are still available on some SAK models while the other tools are just relics of bygone knives.

Cigar Cutter

The cigar cutter is the most eye-catching tool from the past. Cigar smoking isn’t as popular as it was, but there were once five models of Swiss Army Knives that featured a cigar cutter. It was unique because it was not spring-loaded. It featured a lever that would slice the cigar with a blade like a guillotine.

Toilet Paper Holder Key

That’s not a joke. A limited number of Swiss Army Knives in Europe were made with this incredibly specific tool to open industrial paper towel holders in public/commercial bathrooms.

Pharmaceutical Spatula

You’re reading that right. Some knives feature a pharmaceutical spatula. This tool is meant to stir ointments and creams as well as safely move pills into bottles. It’s as specific as it gets when it comes to tools on a Swiss Army Knife. Well, there might be one tool more specific.

Hoof Cleaner

If you’re a farrier and need to clean out some horse hooves, there’s a tool for you. The small hook features no sharp edge so as to not hurt the horse as you clean out their hoof before putting on a new shoe.

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First Look: Kershaw Outlier

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The Newest Tactical Folder From Kershaw Looks Phenomenal And Is A Ton Of Fun To Use.

Yet again, Kershaw has produced an excellent piece with its new Outlier folding knife. Featuring a Blackwash hawkbill blade, the Outlier is excellent for tactical use. The knife is made from 8Cr13MoV steel, and the handle is made from glass nylon.

Kershaw Outlier in the closed position.

The large steel ring at the end of the karambit-designed handle allows you to use the knife in a forward or reverse grip. Great for slicing and cutting, the Outlier is a great utilitarian knife as well, especially when it comes to doing things like cutting rope or cardboard. 

The Outlier has an assisted opening and a reversible pocket clip so you can easily take it with you on the go. At an MSRP of $57.59, Kershaw has hit another home run.

Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.

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