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Jason Fry

Buying Custom Knives: Four Lessons To Get A Deal

Jason Fry
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Buying Custom Knives: Four Lessons To Get A Deal

We give you the tips to avoid mistakes when buying a custom knives.

Of course, every rule or principle has its exceptions and counter-principles. You do get what you pay for, but only when you have an honest and informed assessment. Is that micarta real Westinghouse Micarta? Is the fit and finish and reputation of the maker in line with the price? Did the maker grind the knife themselves, or is this a production knife?

You’ll have to do some homework if you want to get “good deals.” One of the oldest tricks in the book is for the seller to exaggerate demand and conceal supply. “This is the last one, and they’ve been buying them fast all day!” may be true or may be a dishonest sales pitch.

The warning is “buyer beware” more often than “seller beware” after all. Many a “bad deal” comes not from mutual disagreement, but from one side taking advantage or being dishonest.

Economic generalities aside, let’s look specifically at the knife market.

Lesson 1: Don’t Buy The Hype

Some people want the latest and greatest thing. They get great enjoyment out of buying what is the ultimate “grail” knife of a given season, often hyped up on social media, on online forums, by word of mouth, in magazines and at events. For these buyers, the thrill is in the hunt and in the showing of the trophy.

If you want to be that kind of buyer, buy what you want and enjoy the heck out of it! Keep in mind that demand will be lower for last year’s hot thing, and so will the resale price. I won’t go so far as to say don’t buy the hot knife. Many of us spend money on experiences (what do you gain long term from a concert or a trip to the movies?) or on depreciating possessions like cars or boats. In some ways, if you enjoy it, it doesn’t matter if you lose some money on a knife or it’s not a good “investment.”

Many of us “regular” folks have to be a little more careful with our funds. If you chase what’s hot, you’ll end up buying at times of peak demand, which means you’ll pay a higher price. By the time you get tired of that knife or want to sell, everyone else just might be tired of it as well, as the knife world will have moved on to the next hot thing. If you’re one of the folks for whom a sour ending ruins the whole experience, don’t buy hot. If you have an eye toward appreciation of values and want to “make money” on your knife collecting hobby, don’t buy hot.

For some people, the thrill is in finding the next hot one, before it gets hot. Wouldn’t we all have loved to have purchased a bunch of Microsoft stock in 1993? If we were better at predicting the future, we’d make better knife picks for our collection, just like we’d make better choices in our stock portfolio. Still, if you “hit” one once in a while—buy the maker’s work right before he hits the big time and make lots of money—it can be quite a thrill and keep you buying knives on a regular basis.

Another point of caution when it comes to hype has to do with the “flash in the pan” types who grow smoking hot quickly, beyond their market position or ability to produce. It has happened in the knife world before and will happen again. Someone may be better at marketing than knifemaking, or better at Instagram videos than filling knife orders. If the hype of a particular maker turns you off or looks suspicious, trust your gut and hold off on purchasing. Sometimes makers flame out as spectacularly as they rose to fame.

Lesson 2: Don’t Overspend At The Beginning

“Walk before you run” is good advice. Knife collecting is about finding joy in knives, and at the beginning, small mistakes hurt less. If you start with $500 and buy five quality production knives at $100 each, you may enjoy them a long time. If you start with the same $500 and buy a custom at a show from an overhyped maker who quickly fades away, you may sour to collecting altogether. When you gamble more, the losses cost more.

The opposite is somewhat true as well, however. If you spend your $500 on 50 $10 gas station knives, you’ll have a great big pile of crappy knives when you’re done. The trick is finding a good balance between price and quality. Finding that balance takes time to learn.

As you learn more about the market segment you’re interested in, don’t be afraid to invest more as you grow. You may reach a point where you don’t want the Chinese ones, but rather the American ones. Or maybe you don’t want production, you want midtech. Or maybe you won’t want the midtech one with the maker’s name on it, you may want the custom one made by the maker himself.

Hopefully, your budget will grow to accommodate your growing expertise and preferences.

Lesson 3: It’s Not Just The Knife You’re Buying

When you invest in Amazon stock, you are making a rich man richer. You’re buying a piece of paper or an electronic data point that says you “own” a tiny piece of the company, and you expect a mathematically increasing return for your investment.

When you buy a knife, odds are good your money won’t go to that knifemaker’s yacht payment or summer home fund. When you buy a knife from an individual knifemaker, you’re more likely sending his kids to daycare or piano lessons, paying for his electricity and buying his wife new shoes. If you buy at a knife show, you probably bought the maker’s dinner. When you invest in a knife, you support a specific person, not “the man behind the curtain.”

Even if you find joy by investing in a person by buying their product, you still owe it to yourself to invest wisely. Of course, you should buy a knife you like, that you find useful or that may make you a decent return on your money. At the same time, you should be looking for people to help, individual makers whose lives you will improve by your relationship and the purchases you make over time. You may be making friends, not just money, which can add another degree of magnitude to your enjoyment of knife collecting.

Lesson 4: Buy What You Know

The more you know, the fewer expensive mistakes you’re likely to make and the more deals you’re likely to find. The less you know, the more likely it is that you’ll get a bad deal, purchase a knife you’ll be dissatisfied with or a knife you later regret. The more you know, the better. This seems to be a universal principle of life and economics, and it applies to knives as well.

First off, buy knives from brands or people you know have a good market position. Many times, a well-known brand is successful for good reasons. A classic brand like Case or Spyderco may be a great place to start, or a well-known Knifemakers’ Guild member or somebody from the “Slipjoint Cartel.” When you have the chance to know the maker or seller personally, that knowledge makes your purchases more likely to bring you joy or a good return on your investment.

Second, buy knives from reputable dealers or purveyors. While you may get a “great deal” from a pawn shop or somebody’s cousin who is a knife collector, there is some measure of protection in buying from well-known retailers such as Blade HQ, AG Russell, Arizona Custom Knives and others. Until you become familiar enough with the market to know exactly what you’re looking at, it’s wise to stick with the major dealers.

As another example, consider buying from the folks who advertise in the knife magazines, such as BLADE. If their business is legitimate enough to afford the expense of advertising in print, they’re more likely to be honest and stick around.

Third, buy the knives you’re familiar with. You may get joy out of buying a knife the first time you’ve ever seen or heard of it. On the other hand, you’re even likelier to enjoy a knife that you know in your heart is a great one, because you’ve studied it, chased it, pursued it, and finally purchased after careful consideration. Sometimes the journey is as fun as the destination, and the pursuit of the grail is worth as much as the grail itself.

You may get in a rut and feel like you’re buying the same knife over and over. That’s no good either. Balance your knowledge with both width and depth. You may dive deep into one model, one maker or one brand, or you may spread your collection broadly by buying one knife from as many different people and places as possible. Either way, you’ll get familiar with the knives that you like, and you’ll end up going as deep or as broad in your collection as you like.

Check Out More Cool Custom Knives:

Blade Grinds: A Down And Dirty Guide

Jason Fry
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Blade Grinds: A Down And Dirty Guide

Knife edges come in all different styles. We break down the major types in this quick guide to blade grinds.

Cutting performance is greatly influenced by the way in which the maker grinds the knife. Each grind will have different cutting characteristics. A good knifemaker will consider whether the grind of the knife is suited to the chosen task. You as a buyer will also need to consider if the grind of a knife will suit the tasks you have in mind.

Blade Grinds
Blade grinds you’ll often come across can be seen here. (Image courtesy of Knafs.com)

Flat Grind

A flat-ground knife is a simple wedge and may be thick or thin. Flat grinds are good for slicing and deep cuts. I personally prefer a flat grind that goes all the way to the spine. A thinner flat grind will cut more smoothly than a thicker flat grind, where a thicker grind may be more durable.

Hollow Grind

A hollow-ground knife has a slightly concave bevel, which makes it thinner behind the cutting edge. This makes for good skinning and shallow cut work, without giving up overall blade heft or durability. Deep cuts or chopping are not well suited to a hollow grind.

Convex Grind

Convex grinds have slightly rounded bevels, which increases their edge stability. While they may not excel at slicing, they’re the way to go for hard use cutting and chopping.

Scandi Grind

Scandi grinds are a short flat grind with no secondary bevel. “Scandi” refers to the Scandinavian countries where that grind style is popular, especially Finland. This grind style cuts very well but can be difficult to sharpen properly.

Compound Grind

A compound grind may combine several of the basic grind shapes. Particularly on tactical and folding knives, many modern grinds are aesthetically interesting, but at the occasional sacrifice of performance. If you’re collecting for aesthetic reasons, however, these grinds could be all you ever wanted out of a knife.

More Knife Basics:

Knife Collector: What Personality Are You?

Jason Fry
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Knife Collector: What Personality Are You?

Folks chase blades for all sorts of reasons. As a knife collector, what motivates you?

Have you ever taken one of those personality tests online or at work, like a Myers-Briggs, StrengthsFinder or Enneagram? You end up with a description of your personality tendencies, and invariably some of them are exactly how you see yourself.

While I have the nerd skills to put together a knife collector personality test like that, I don’t think it would be that useful. Instead, I’ll skip straight to the results and describe a few varieties of the “knife collector personality.” Maybe something in one of these descriptions will resonate with you.

Accidental Knife Collector

Collectors in this category are buying and accumulating knives because those knives do certain tasks well. They’re not afraid to buy a knife for one specific purpose and may find themselves in possession of more knives than they realized they had.

I got my first knife at around age 7; a small Case folder. This knife, like many others I’ve owned, was used and then lost. Fast forward 34 years, and I still use a knife. I started making knives because I didn’t have enough sharp knives to accommodate the tasks I was engaged in at the time. I hunt and use a knife to process my deer and other game animals. I use knives in the kitchen. I skin fish, slice vegetables and open packages. I carry a small Swiss army knife with me on my keychain. Am I a knife collector?

Just for kicks while pondering this question, I took a quick inventory. I have three custom and two quality production knives in my kitchen. I have five customs in my hunting pack, not counting the ones my sons have. I’ve got three or four spare keychain knives. I started a minor collection on purpose once and acquired 10 or 12 trapper pattern slipjoints and a few vintage folding knives in other patterns before I decided I wasn’t a collector, but I still have the knives.

In addition, I’ve got various junk knives stashed around in cars, trucks, shops and drawers, including the usual assortment of junk kitchen knives from big box marts, plus all the decent ones that I forgot where I put them. By quick count, I’ve got about a dozen customs and another 75 production knives.

Am I a knife collector? In my mind I am not a “knife collector,” but I figure I might be after all. You might be an Accidental Collector, too, and not even know it.

Investor

Brazilian ABS master smith Rodrigo Sfreddo talks with a customer
What motivates you to brave the crows at knife shows to collect?

Collectors of this type always have an eye on the bottom line. They’re familiar with the primary and secondary markets, and can instantly spot a good deal. They are always looking for the “next big thing,” the knife that is not hot yet but will be soon. They know the value of “buy low, sell high,” but they also watch which makers and knives appreciate over time.

Some folks invest in stocks or real estate, while others apply their knife knowledge as part of an investment strategy.

I think of my friend Jimmy McMahon as an example of this category. I remember back in 2010 when he invited me to my very first knife show. At the time, he was proud of a knife he had just purchased from Kyle Royer, then a 19-year-old journeyman smith. Given Kyle’s continued improvement and his current status in the industry, I’d say Jimmy made a good investment. If Jimmy were to sell that knife today, he’d make a handsome profit.

Philanthropist/Helper

Have you ever met a person who was a real people-person and just wanted to help everyone? When a person like this collects knives, they continue with that approach.

Some collectors buy from makers they know and have a relationship with. Some buy from makers whose story they know, makers for whom the buyer knows that every single sale makes a difference. These collectors may be biased toward purchasing from makers who are newer, younger or less well-established.

One fairly well-known example is knifemaker Lloyd Hale. Lloyd disappeared from the knifemaking scene in the early 1980s, only to reappear 20 years later. Lloyd tucked away for all that time in his shop working for his patron, Owsley Brown Frazier. Lloyd created over 300 knives, daggers and swords for Owsley, who just happened to be one of the country’s premier gun and arms collectors. Many of these knives along with a great number of historical pieces are on display in the Frazier Museum in Louisville, Kentucky.

Another good example is my friend, David Smith. He loves to talk, to share what he has and a good knife. Over the years as I developed in the craft, he has purchased 6 or 8 pieces from me. He’s given some as gifts, but all have been put to use.

One story stands out as a great illustration of David’s character and the Philanthropist/Helper.

One of my first forged knives was made from the tooth of a drag harrow that came from my grandfather’s farm. I’d held onto the tooth for many years until my forging skills were up to the task. The knife also included wrought iron and some figured red oak milled in 1955 that was recovered during a remodel from the floor of my house at the time.

Even though this knife was tied to me in many ways, with two small kids at home I found myself in an economic pinch, so I had to put the knife out for sale. I priced it at what was for me a high price at the time, and David snatched it right up. He also promised to give me the knife back when he passed away.

About four years later, I was able to travel across country and again visit David at his hunting camp where we used to hang out 15 years prior. True to his word, David gave me back the knife, saying that he didn’t want his wife to have to figure out where to send all the stuff he’d promised folks after he died. He’s almost died four or five times in the last 20 years, but as of this writing is still alive and well. I’ve since adopted that knife as one of my primary using knives, and it’s a treasure I’ll never part with.

Art Appreciator

The mammoth ivory scales, subtle filework and damascus blade of Andy Isaacks’ elegant linerlock highlight the detailed engraving by Alice Carter. Closed length: 4.5 inches.
Sure the canvas is different, but there’s no denying Andy Isaacks’ knife and Alice Carter’s engraving are works of art in their own right.

These people love art for art’s sake, who take the time to stop and admire the roses, who simply enjoy having beautiful things around them. That there would be people like this who gravitate toward knives-as-art is no real surprise. Just like those who collect paintings, sculptures or any other kind of art, these people buy knives simply to appreciate their beauty and the skillful craftsmanship that went into their creation.

I never met David Darom, but with some familiarity with his books, I assume he was an Art Appreciator. His books feature the best knives in the world from a variety of genres, from top makers both stateside and international. If you’re not familiar with his work, The Great Collections is a good place to start.

I remember as an incoming probationary member at the Guild Show in 2013 hearing a buzz in the room when a $30,000 knife was sold by Warren Osborne. As a young guy in the back row, I had no idea what kind of knife would bring that kind of price, nor what kind of customer would buy one. I later saw the knife, with gold and fine engraving on a damascus interframe folder. My guess is that it was purchased by an Art Appreciator.

There are a few fine examples of this kind of knife in the center photo section.

“Squirrel!” Collector

Some readers will recognize the “Squirrel!” reference from the Disney movie Up. It’s a great illustration of the ADHD/impulsivity that goes along with some personality types, mine included. This type of collector simply buys knives that they like at the moment. Rather than a systematic approach, it’s more like “here a knife, there a knife, everywhere a knife knife!”

While some might argue that this isn’t a “real” collecting strategy, I believe that if it’s enjoyable to the collector, then it’s a legitimate pursuit. Even so, these stories don’t always turn out well.

My fishing buddy, Cliff, is a good example. He asked me once to sharpen his knives prior to an elk hunting trip. What he brought me was an imported Buck folder, a decent Benchmade fixed blade and two no-name folding knives from Bass Pro. Each one sharpened differently, and each was designed for a different purpose. None of them were well suited to skinning an elk. Cliff was happy to share them with me and glad for me to sharpen them, but no elk were harmed on his hunting adventure.

Historical/Sentimental Knife Collector

Some collectors specialize in history of one kind or another. Maybe they collect only Case “tested” knives like their grandpa or father carried. Maybe they have a collection of knives directly from their ancestors, or connected to a specific historical event (e.g. Civil War), a specific era (e.g. the American West) or an international genre that connects with their heritage. For these collectors, part of the value of the knife is the connection that it makes with something both personal and historical.

Master smith Jerry Fisk targets this kind of collector with his high-end bowies that include historical materials. He’s made knives from World Trade Center steel. He’s used wood from trees planted by George Washington. He’s made damascus with one layer for every person in the United States.Elements from Thomas Jefferson, Dr. Mudd, the Liberty Bell, the Alamo and Pearl Harbor have been worked into Fisk knives over the years. When a collector buys these knives, they’re buying a connection to a story, not just a knife.

My friend, David Patterson, of League City, Texas, fits this category. He’s been collecting knives for many years and has a great collection of the work of knifemakers from the 60s and 70s like Merle Seguine, Clyde Fischer, Gordon and Ruffin Johnson, Randall and Moreseth. He also has a long-standing collection of a knife from every single master smith in Arkansas.

Grail Seeker

Bob Loveless hunting knife
Engraved by C.J. Cai, it’s safe to say this Bob Loveless hunting knife set would qualify as a Holy Grail to many knife collectors. (SharpByCoop image)

There’s a personality type that loves the thrill of the hunt, for whom the journey is as important as the destination. These folks love to get the hottest new thing, or pursue the rarest or most sought-after knives. If you follow the trends and buy at the peak, you may be this kind of collector.

The market depends somewhat on people willing to play this role. The thrill of the acquisition can be as important as the knife itself. These folks developed the term “grail” knife, that knife for which you’d forsake all others, the knife at the top of the pinnacle.

All About The Knives

Whatever your personal reasons for collecting, and whatever personality traits encourage you down the path you’ve chosen, we all share one thing in common: the love of the knife.

More On Knife Collecting:

Knife Steel Alloys: A Down-And-Dirty Guide

Jason Fry
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Knife Steel Alloys: A Down-And-Dirty Guide

We break down what common steel alloying elements add to a knife.

Alloy… in the knife world we hear the word often. Blade aficionados—many almost journeyman metallurgists in their own rights—pour over steel composition. Newbies to collecting and making, however, might be a bit perplexed over exactly what the material modification is all about.

With this in mind, we’ve boiled down what certain elements—when alloyed with iron—bring to the table for your knife. Now this isn’t a deep dive into the nitty-gritty of what each element does in a steel alloy, complete with phase diagrams and quenching charts. Honestly, if you need to cut to this quick, we recommend Larrin Thomas’ website KnifeSteelNerd.com. The son of BLADE Cutlery Hall of Fame member Devin Thomas and PhD metallurgist and material scientist, Thomas offers a much more in-depth look at steel from an engineer and knifemaker’s point of view.

What we have here is a quick and dirty guide to alloy elements and what they bring to a knife.

What An Alloy Is

If your high school chemistry class is a bit foggy right now, perhaps we should take a moment to do a quick review of exactly what constitutes an alloy. Quite simply, an alloy is a mixture of two or more elements, where at least one of the elements is a metal. Note alloys are mixtures, not compounds—the former is a physical combination, the latter a chemical. For a mixture, think of something like oil emulsified in vinegar to create a tasty salad topping, while a compound is two gases like hydrogen and water bonding together to form water.

Alloying elements is done to enhance the properties of a material. In the case of knife steel elements are combined to improve toughness, wear resistance, corrosion resistance or other factors. While we won’t delve that deep in this article, we’ll point alloys can be classified into two main types:

Substitutional Alloys: In these alloys, the atoms of one element replace or substitute for the atoms of another in the metal lattice. An example is brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc.

Interstitial Alloys: In these alloys, smaller atoms fit into the spaces (interstices) between the larger metal atoms in the lattice. Steel, which is an alloy of iron and carbon, is an example of an interstitial alloy.

Since we’ve dusted off some of those long-lost materials lessons you learned, let’s get into the down-and-dirty of what each common alloying element brings to knife steel.

Knife Steel Alloy Elements

Carbon: This ingredient makes the difference between iron and steel; all steel will have some amount of carbon. It is the most important hardening element, but it makes hardness by combining with other elements. As a simple generalization, the amount of carbon in the steel tells you a lot about the quality of the steel. Low-carbon steel has 0.3% carbon or less, medium has between 0.4-0.7% and high-carbon steel is 0.8% and above, maxing out at around 1.2% carbon for knife steels. Up to a point, the higher the carbon content within the range, the harder the steel will get.

Chromium: Chromium combines with carbon to make chromium carbides, which are resistant to corrosion. Stainless steel knives will have chromium as a major ingredient, typically at a minimum of 12-13%. Chromium also increases the strength of a knife to a degree, but adding chromium in large amounts decreases toughness.

Cobalt: In small amounts, cobalt increases toughness.

Manganese: This changes the rate of hardening. Manganese in carbon steels yields “deeper” hardening, which requires a slower speed quench and gives a wider range of acceptable heat before quench. If added in high quantities, it can increase brittleness. Manganese makes steel etch dark in damascus.

Molybdenum: Adding this maintains the steel’s strength at high temperatures.

Nickel: Nickel adds toughness to steel. It also makes steel etch bright in damascus.

Nitrogen: This element is sometimes used as a substitute for carbon in steel.

Silicon: Silicon increases strength and removes oxygen from the metal while it is being formed. It’s typically present in small quantities in most steels.

Sulfur: This increases machinability but decreases toughness.

Tungsten: Adding this increases wear resistance and forms tungsten carbides that are very hard.

Vanadium: Vanadium leads to smaller grains within the steel. Vanadium carbides are very small and hard, which increases wear resistance and edge retention.

More On Knife Steel:

Damascus Steels: What To Use And When

Jason Fry
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Damascus Steels: What To Use And When

Bladesmiths outline which carbon steel combos they use and why.

Damascus steel is a broad category with nearly infinite variations. It includes everything from low-layer random patterns to powdered canister creations and complex mosaic patterns.

The basics of damascus include forge-welded combinations of steels. Changes in the steel choices, in the welding or forging processes, and even in the etching method result in a wide variety of patterns and looks. Let’s dive into the many levels of damascus through the work of a few excellent smiths.

Smiths Takes On Damascus Steels

ABS apprentice smith Chris McPherson began making knives only four years ago, but he had a strong start attending classes taught by ABS master smiths Jason Knight and Josh Fisher. Now he forges his own damascus. One of his fighters (IMAGE 1) features a blade of 1075 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels.

ABS journeyman smith Brian Sellers used three steels instead of the standard two to help provide a darker look for his blade of ladder pattern damascus. As he observed, “Adding a third steel to damascus gives a unique depth to the finished blade, kind of like adding shades of gray to a tattoo.” (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Image 2 ABS journeyman smith Brian Sellers used three steels instead of the standard two to help provide a darker look for his blade of ladder pattern damascus. As he observed, “Adding a third steel to damascus gives a unique depth to the finished blade, kind of like adding shades of gray to a tattoo.” (Jocelyn Frasier image)

“I made the knife for a local state trooper benefit, for the teenage son of an officer who lost his life in the line of duty in March 2023,” Chris explained.  When asked about why he chose 1075 for his fighter, he said he “just wanted to try it out” after making other billets with 1095, 1084 and 1080 carbon steels. Though he’d heard that the 1075 may have a bit less contrast due to its lower manganese levels, it came out with beautiful contrast after a deeper etch.

Knifemaker Brian Sellers likes to mix things up a bit. In addition to the standard carbon steels of 1095 or 1084, Sellers occasionally includes 1080, 5160 or 52100.  “Adding a third steel to damascus gives a unique depth to the finished blade, kind of like adding shades of gray to a tattoo,” he says. For example, in a recent Persian fighter (IMAGE 2), Sellers included 1080 and 5160 along with 15N20 in a ladder pattern blade. Brian indicated all the steels work well with his equipment. He uses a 50-ton Riverside hydraulic press and a 50-pound Little Giant power hammer.  

Damascus is time and labor intensive, and the maker loses a good bit of the steel in the forging process. Bladesmith Blake Nichols knows this and is from the “waste not, want not” school of thought. 

Robert Wayman uses a hydraulic press to weld and draw out his damascus billet.
Robert Wayman uses a hydraulic press to weld and draw out his damascus billet.

“My mentor Greg Shahan gave me the end cut of a feather damascus billet a few years ago,” Nichols said. “It sat on my shelf for a long time before I incorporated it into [one of my] hunters.” 

Regarding his damascus, he added, “I wish I had a profound scientific answer as to why I use 15N20 and 1095 but I do not. The simple answer is it’s what I learned on. I’m comfortable with the heat-treating process. I also feel like I get the performance out of that combination that I desire.” I agree with Nichols when he said, “No matter what it’s made of, it has to function like a knife.  Even the fancy ones need to hold up to the performance standards.”

Why 15N20 In Damascus?

For a great example of a go-mai (five layer) damascus blade with the visual “pop” of nickel, Robert Wayman provides the fireworks via his sujihiki.  Damascus outer layers and a damascus core work together with the handle of live edge amboyna burl to make a stunning knife. Overall length: 16 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Image 3 For a great example of a go-mai (five layer) damascus blade with the visual “pop” of nickel, Robert Wayman provides the fireworks via his sujihiki.  Damascus outer layers and a damascus core work together with the handle of live edge amboyna burl to make a stunning knife. Overall length: 16 inches. (SharpByCoop image)

You may have noticed one thing the featured bladesmiths all have in common: they include 15N20 in their damascus billets. The 15N20 is a simple carbon steel, basically 1075, but has a relatively large amount of a special ingredient: nickel. The nickel content makes 15N20 etch more slowly and show more brightly when polished. Because of the similar composition to the 10-series steels (1080, 1084, etc.), it welds well and hardens in similar temperatures, making it the perfect steel for high contrast in the damascus pattern.

Some smiths use pure nickel foil or sheet in their damascus for the same effect. The challenge is that the pure nickel won’t harden, so it must be kept away from the edge in the forging process. The contrast is great but the nickel itself won’t hold an edge. I like a nickel layer in between layers of san-mai or go-mai damascus. It really pops!

Bladesmith Robert Wayman illustrates the go-mai technique well on one of his kitchen knives (IMAGE 3). The blade was made from a patterned go-mai billet. There’s a core layer running down the center of the blade with two layers of material on each side. The core is 100-layer random pattern damascus forged from 1084 and 15N20. On each side of the core steel is a layer of nickel and on the outside of the billet is a layer of matching random pattern damascus. 

Key Element Comparisons by Steel

Steel10841075109515N201080516052100
C.865.7501.000.750.75-.88.60.98-1.10
Mn.750.550.450.375.06-.09.80.24-.45
N——.2001.950———
*C-carbon, Mn-manganese, N-nickel; the double hyphens indicate trace amounts. Note the relatively high amounts of nickel of the 15N20 and of manganese of the 1084, two elements beneficial for high contrast damascus. This chart is for the elements pertinent to the subject at hand only and does not list all the elements of each steel.

Once the final billet is forge welded, some of the cladding material is removed with a grinder to create a visual effect in the pattern, and then the billet is drawn out to length. Keeping the core material centered during the process is very important. “You want to take your time when laying out your billet,” Wayman advised. “I typically use a thicker core material and a thinner cladding material, but it’s definitely taken some time and practice to dial it in.”

Other Damascus Steels

Before 15N20 and 10-series combos became prevalent for damascus, one of the standard high-contrast combinations was O1 and L6 tool steels. While the latter combo makes great damascus, the two steels are harder to find in today’s market. Simply put, properly sized and affordable 15N20 and 10-series steels are much more available than all the other combos on the market. 

Damascus can be made of many things, including other damascus. These component bars became part of Robert Wayman’s chef’s knife.
Damascus can be made of many things, including other damascus. These component bars became part of Robert Wayman’s chef’s knife.

Copper is another material that has caught on in the forging of copper-mai and other forms of copper damascus. Outfits like Baker Forge specialize in the process in which the copper is often clad over a standard carbon steel damascus core, as the copper itself won’t harden. 

Titanium alloys have been pattern welded, often called Timascus™, and can be anodized in an array of wild colors. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to produce and doesn’t harden, so Timascus blades are probably not in your future. Instead, Timascus makes a great folder frame, bolsters and other non-blade knife parts.

What Metals To Avoid

Are there any materials that don’t make a great contrasting damascus? Sellers reports that the “S” series high silicon steels like S5 and S7 don’t work. He speculated that it was either the steel composition or improper heat control, but welds of S5 and S7 don’t stick during forging.

Robert Wayman welded these five pieces of steel together to make the go-mai damascus blade of his chef’s knife.
Robert Wayman welded these five pieces of steel together to make the go-mai damascus blade of his chef’s knife.

I can attest that meteorite is a tempting addition to damascus because various samples are often high in nickel and mostly made of iron. Unfortunately, every meteorite varies widely in terms of content, so that individual pieces of the same meteorite each may have a very different chemical composition. As another confounding factor, many meteorites contain high silicon or other elements besides iron, carbon and nickel. Each new element adds its own problems to the process.

I was able to produce a satisfactory pair of billets containing some meteorite by putting small chunks in a canister with 1084 powder, and then welding and re-stacking the billet with more 1084 bar stock until the final layer count was over 1,000. By adding only 1084, I was assured that any bright spots in the final pattern were from the nickel in the meteorite. Even with this process, there were a few inclusions/flaws in the final product. Could I have continued to push the layer count and minimized the flaws further? We’ll never know.
  
Some may think AEBL stainless steel is nice and shiny. Can it or another stainless steel be put in the mix with carbon steel? If you think that “shiny” makes sense for high contrast, that part is true. Unfortunately, the high chromium in stainless steels causes problems for damascus makers in two ways. First, chromium steels don’t like to weld together. The chromium oxidizes quickly and prevents the welds from sticking. Second, the chromium changes the hardening properties. In a hypothetical AEBL and 1084 billet, the AEBL hardens from 1,900°F while the 1084 hardens from 1,500°F. If you quench the hypothetical billet from 1,900°F, the 1084 will have huge, brittle grain. If you quench the same billet from 1,500°F, the AEBL won’t harden.  

For the blade of his fancy hunter, Blake Nichols employs a damascus of 1095 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels forged by Greg Shahan. Blake said he is comfortable with the heat-treating process and also feels like he gets the performance he wants from the combination of the two component steels. Overall length: 10 inches. The scrimshaw is by Charles W. Conner III. (SharpByCoop image)
For the blade of his fancy hunter, Blake Nichols employs a damascus of 1095 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels forged by Greg Shahan. Blake said he is comfortable with the heat-treating process and also feels like he gets the performance he wants from the combination of the two component steels. Overall length: 10 inches. The scrimshaw is by Charles W. Conner III. (SharpByCoop image)

While there are smiths who have figured out how to weld multiple types of stainless steel together in contrasting patterns, the process requires careful and precise heating and mitigation of oxygen, both procedures which are often beyond the scope of the backyard smith. Because of the complex process required to make it, stainless damascus commands premium prices.

Final Cut

Modern damascus retains strong demand in the knife market. By combining a choice of several standard carbon steels and 15N20, smiths can create damascus patterns that will make any knife stand out. Whether the pattern is random or ladder, raindrop or mosaic and more, a high-quality damascus knife is sure to be a winner. 

More On Damascus:

What Makes A Great Pocketknife? The Pros Weigh In

Jason Fry
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What Makes A Great Pocketknife? The Pros Weigh In

Some lean traditional, others modern and others “whatever’s in my pocket is fine”.

There are times when a pocketknife is essential and times when it’s not pragmatic. Though I’m guessing most BLADE readers wouldn’t be the ones who’d cause a problem, have you ever had a knife confiscated by the Transportation Security Administration? Sure, it’s in the name of world peace or whatever, but if you find yourself frequently in airports the best pocketknife might be the one you leave at home.

I’m fixing to admit a heresy: As a knife writer and knifemaker with a work-from-home day job, I don’t often carry a pocketknife. I have a small imported Benchmade on my work desk, and some of my “knife collection” is in my office, but that’s all. In my house I’ve got knives everywhere I go—kitchen, bedroom, office, outdoor shop, all over the place. I rarely carry one yet rarely go without. I also fly occasionally, so even my keychain knife has become out-of-pocket.

Let’s drill down through all the “it depends” and get to the final question: What’s the perfect pocketknife? Of course, there’s no definitive answer but there are some perspectives.

Jordan Wagner of DLT Trading

Les George VECM
The Les George VECM is clean and ergonomic and checks the boxes for a high-end modern pocketknife: premium CPM MagnaCut stainless blade steel, titanium framelock and easy opening.

When it comes to the modern high-end folder, Jordan Wagner of DLT Trading said, “My favorite would be the Les George VECP. What sets it apart for me is Les’s tremendous attention to detail in both design and execution. His designs are clean and simple without being pedestrian, and they perform phenomenally in use. The VECP handle has fantastic ergonomics and is comfortable in multiple hand positions, while still feeling safe and locked in during use. The blade shape is functional and handsome, and his grinds tend to be extremely slicey. The VECP really hits all the buttons I look for in an EDC knife.”

Ben Petersen of Knafs

CIVIVI Sendy
According to the author, the CIVIVI Sendy designed by Ben Peterson combines some of the best elements of traditional and modern design, including a barlow-shaped frame, choice of a clip-point (shown here) or spey pattern blade, Nitro-V stainless blade steel, a Micarta® handle, flipper tab, linerlock and the author’s favorite: a tweezers and toothpick that slides under the scales a la a Swiss Army knife.

In addition to being co-founder of Knafs, Ben Petersen also designs knives. His latest entry is a model produced under the CIVIVI brand called the Sendy. In an innovative genius kind of way, Ben combines some of the best elements of traditional and modern design. The knife comes in Nitro-V, a stainless steel that threads the fine line between ease of sharpening and edge holding. It compares favorably to the traditional carbon steel knives of old yet sharpens much easier than the newer powder-metallurgy super steels. 

The Sendy’s overall profile resembles a traditional barlow, with straight lines and a butt end wider than the tip. The blade comes in both spey and clip-point patterns. Also thrown in are more contemporary features such as a front flipper tab, linerlock, ceramic bearings, and a deep-carry, reversible pocket clip. However, what really sends this one over the top for me is the inclusion of tweezers and a toothpick that slide under the scales in the traditional Swiss Army knife configuration. Ben successfully combined modern and traditional elements into a very versatile, user-friendly pocketknife.

Goldie Russell Of A.G. Russell

Skinny Brute from A.G. Russell Knives
A pocketknife that appeals to the author is the Skinny Brute from A.G. Russell Knives, a traditional lockback in CPM S35VN stainless blade steel. There’s a choice of carbon fiber (2.6 ounces and $135 MSRP) or green G-10 (2.9 ounces and $99 MSRP) for the “skinny”—a half-inch thick at the swell—handle. Blade and closed lengths: 3.25 and 4 1/8 inches. Country of origin: China.

I reached out to BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Goldie Russell, who with her late husband, Cutlery Hall-of-Famer A.G. Russell, basically invented mail-order knife catalogs. Over the years the A.G. Russell Knives brand has marketed a huge variety of pocketknives and fixed blades, domestic and imported. The current catalog includes some interesting designs that blend modern and traditional sensibilities. One that appeals to me is the Skinny Brute, a traditional lockback in modern materials.

“A.G. designed the Brute in the 1970s,” Goldie began. “He and handmade knifemaker W.C. ‘Bill’ Davis perfected A.G.’s idea that by using Micarta® a folder could be made without metal liners. The result of that collaboration was the A.G. Russell Brute. At some point in the late 1970s, A.G. stopped offering them. In the early 1990s, we began to work with Bill again and for a number of years they were again made by hand in the U.S.A. For over five decades our customers have loved the profile, the deep nail mark for one-handed opening, the weight and the rest of the features of the design. Now, after many years, it is back, with a handle that is just a little thinner.”

Joe Culpepper of Culpepper & Co.

Case/Tony Bose collaboration
Joe Culpepper of Culpepper & Co. and Old School Knife Works is a fan of the Case/BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Tony Bose collaboration swayback jack, as well as other swayback patterns, in either single- or double-blade configurations. (Old School Knife Works image)

When it comes to the traditional pocketknife, Joe Culpepper of Culpepper & Co. handle material supplies and Old School Knife Works is a fan of the Case/Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Tony Bose collaboration swayback jack, as well as other swayback patterns, in either single- or double-blade configurations. “I think the design is simple, clean and elegant, and,” Joe stressed, “jigged bone is a must!”

What’s In Your Pocket?

Even among industry insiders, not everyone has the same preferences or shares the same opinions on what makes a perfect pocketknife. Some lean more traditional, others more modern and others more “whatever’s in my pocket is fine.”
No matter your preference, buy all the knives you can afford and carry them as often as you can. After all, you never know—the “perfect” pocketknife may just be the one you have on you when you need it most.

More On Pocketknives:

What Makes The Perfect Pocketknife?

Jason Fry
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What Makes The Perfect Pocketknife?

Decades ago in America the pocketknife was universal, with such patterns as the barlow, stockman, trapper and folding hunter well represented in the pockets of our fathers, grandfathers and great-grandfathers. But what about today, when the most likely pocketknife task is opening an Amazon box or trimming a string off a shirt? To find out not only what folks are carrying but why, BLADE® asked several industry insiders, “What makes the perfect pocketknife?”

Pocket Knife Funtionality

Let’s begin our hunt with a look at the past. Many BLADE readers know Joe Culpepper for his and wife Kristi’s knife handle material business, Culpepper & Co. For many years the Culpeppers have provided the knife industry with quality jigged bone, Sambar stag and other exotic materials. Joe is also a student of the slip-joint/traditional pocketknife in all its variations, and sells vintage knives under the business name of Old School Knife Works.

Pocketknife fish
A Case knife in damascus is in the traditional fish knife pattern, an early folding fillet knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“A good pocketknife first and foremost should perform and function reliably in the way it was designed,” he began. “Whether we’re talking about an electrician’s knife, fish knife, melon tester or trapper, the most important thing is that it does its job.”

Pocketknife melon tester
The melon tester pattern, here in an advertising knife configuration, almost always has a long, thin single blade. (Old School Knife Works image)

It has been a while since I used a knife to test a melon and Joe, too, was quick to acknowledge that many of the knife tasks of yesteryear have fallen by the wayside. “Frankly,” he admitted, “many of our pocketknives are simply just really nice box cutters.”

Pocket Knife Blade Size

Sticking with the nice box cutter theme, Knafs co-founder Ben Petersen added that he likes knives suited to the “dad life”—cutting apples cleanly without splitting them, opening boxes and whittling the occasional stick. “I’m not out to stab people,” he grinned. “For me, I think a 2.9-inch blade is perfect. Being under 3 inches keeps you safe from most restrictive knife laws, and it also is the perfect length for the finger test.” Ben went on to explain. “Most of the time when I cut, I put my index finger along the spine of the blade,” he noted. “I want the point of the blade right in the middle of my fingertip where it won’t cut me, but also gives me very precise control.”

Pocketknife medford
Medford Knife & Tool offers a range of titanium framelock folders, including the Praetorian T in CPM S35VN stainless blade steel. Weight: 9.3 ounces. Closed length: 4.9 inches. MSRPs start at $785.

Ben had a fun take on the perfect knife. “You know,” he reflected, “to a 12-year-old a gas station knife* is perfect. The perfect knife is totally different to everyone.” I smiled, remembering how much joy my 14-year-old son got from a rusty Bass Pro Shops framelock, missing a screw, that we found in a pasture on a dove hunt.  

Types Of Pocketknives

Most of us BLADE readers probably already have a good idea of what we like in a pocketknife. We know if we like small ones or bigger ones for everyday carry. We know the steel types we like, and whether we prefer a single or multi-blade. Joe offered some generalizations that match my experience.

Tradional

Hobo
Another older Case edition, the hobo knife features a blade and fork in a handy pocket-sized folding knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“As we get more into knives we tend to evolve into one of two categories, and they’re often correlated with age,” he reasoned. “The older generation tends to go for the more traditional slip joints with natural materials and carbon steel like their dad or grandad carried.” 

Joe considers some “classic” patterns and brands among his favorites, particularly the knives manufactured pre-1970 by the old American firms that mostly have gone out of business. “When you hold an old Schrade, Empire, Robeson or even a vintage Case you get a certain sense of nostalgia,” he noted.

Modern

Pocketknife hinderer
Jordan Wagner said the market is strong for high-quality USA-made titanium framelocks. Among those fitting the niche is the XM-18 3.5 flipper folder from Rick Hinderer Knives. Closed length: 4.75 inches.

As for the other category, Joe finds that younger folks tend to lean toward modern conveniences like pocket clips, modern steels and the more tactical types of knives like Benchmades. Being just a bit on the older side myself, as well as a bit of a traditionalist, I reached out to Jordan Wagner at DLT Trading for some thoughts about what makes a “perfect pocketknife” from a modern point of view. 

From an online merchant’s perspective, he said the market is very strong for quality USA-made framelocks. Titanium framelocks from makers like Rick Hinderer Knives, Chris Reeve Knives, Medford Knife & Tool and custom knifemaker Les George in the $400-to-600 price range continue to be popular. 

Knives in the modern category tend to have a few common characteristics. They feature premium blade steels. They all have some kind of one-hand-opening device such as a thumb stud, blade hole, flipper tab, etc. In general, these are mid-tech production or small batch customs made in shops as often as in factories. The next level below the mid-techs are the larger-batch manufactured knives by companies like Zero Tolerance, Spyderco and Benchmade. They’re often high quality, built in factories to tight tolerances and most often made in the USA.

Often within these and other brands are quality, lower-price-point knives made overseas as well, such as the production Demko AD 20.5 made in Taiwan. There are also quality knives made by China-based companies like Reate, WE and its sister brand CIVIVI and others.  

Case remains the leader in the current production of traditional patterns. But is it because there’s a demand by knife users for a two-blade trapper? Maybe, maybe not. The folks at Case know and understand that there are two big segments of customers that they serve—users and collectors—and they make patterns to please both groups.

The Perfect Pocketknife?

I think about “perfect” in terms of pragmatism. When was the last time the average knife user needed a hobo knife with a fork? Have you ever seen a titanium framelock melon tester? Culpepper has his finger on the vintage-slip-joint market, and his take is that the rise of social media has opened up huge new audiences to the vintage knives.

“The unique patterns always have a market and a strong following,” he said. “For the unique vintage knives there’s good demand, whether they’re made in the USA or even England or Germany.”

More On Pocketknives:

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