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Dexter Ewing

5 Angle-Guide Knife Sharpeners That Make The Cut

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The proper angle is key to a sharp blade. Here are the angle-guide sharpeners that ensure you’ll always get it right.

A big part of sharpening, aside from proper sharpener selection, is how to select and maintain the proper angle of the blade to the sharpener. In fact, the key to successfully sharpening any blade regardless of the grade of steel is being able to maintain that angle. Ever try sharpening freehand on a bench stone with little experience doing so? The reason folks get frustrated with learning to sharpen is they don’t keep the angles consistent. It’s all about the angles. You must take into account what use your knife will see and sometimes that determines the specific angle to use.

You probably know of the angle guide kits with a metal clamp that affixes to the blade and has uprights on either end with a series of holes that correspond to various degrees of angles. Such kits all help instill confidence and the ability to subtract guesswork at maintaining the desired angle.

SHARPENER TYPES
There are plenty of sharpeners capable of reproducing keen edges. Avoid the pull-through types that require you to drag the blade through. Those are set at one angle and use carbide to get the job done. These will ruin a blade in time, and I don’t recommend them. You need a sharpening kit that’ll help establish and hold a consistent angle. All you need to be concerned with is making the motions to get the edge sharp.

The Lansky Deluxe Diamond Knife Sharpening System is one of the oldest angle guide kits on the market. Four various grits of diamond-coated hones are featured, including extra-coarse for fast work of reviving dull blades. The sturdy aluminum clamp holds the knife securely.

Lansky’s four-stone Deluxe Diamond System Precision Knife Sharpening Kit is the best the company offers in angle guide clamp units. It includes an extra coarse hone great for reprofiling edge angles. It also has coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated hones for fine-tuning the edge once it’s been established. The aluminum clamp is sturdy and offers four edge angles: 17, 20, 25, and 30 degrees. The kit stores in a sturdy plastic storage case. MSRP: $114.99.

GATCO offers the Ultimate Diamond Hone Sharpening System, which is similar to the Lansky. Featuring coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated abrasives, the kit includes Ultimate Finishing and triangular-shaped serration hones, too. It works on plain, serrated, and partially serrated edges. The hones are wider and longer for more effective use and have molded-in integral handguards for safety. There’s also a plastic storage case. MSRP: $119.99. 

 

To sharpen the CPM S90V blades with the SelectEdge 14 degree angle of its Hidden Canyon Hunter and Saddle Mountain Skinner, Benchmade offers the model 50082 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool. Designed in conjunction with and manufactured by Work Sharp, this compact sharpener incorporates a fine grit ceramic rod and a leather strap on the backside. Built-in guides set the blade at the correct 14-degree angle. The idea with this one is to apply frequent edge touchups. A premium steel, S90V is notoriously difficult to resharpen, a difficulty negated via frequent edge maintenance sessions with the 50082. MSRP: $25.

DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use  any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an  angle guide kit.
DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use
any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an
angle guide kit.

For knives without the SelectEdge technology, Benchmade offers the Edge Maintenance Tool, also designed with and manufactured by Work Sharp. It uses a fine-grit ceramic rod and a leather strop but in a more compact folding format with a pocket clip for easy carry. As with the 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool, built-in guides assist in achieving the optimal angle for edge restoration. The Edge Maintenance Tool works well with pocketknives, fixed blades, and tactical folders—pretty much any knife. MSRP: $50.

DOWNSIZED 2X72
For the more advanced sharpeners among you, Work Sharp offers the Ken Onion Elite Sharpening System, a variable speed motorized unit employing long-lasting flexible abrasive belts made by Norton Abrasives. It’s pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more  expensive 2x72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.
The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

Designed by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ken Onion, the Elite makes quick work of bringing completely dull and/or damaged knife edges back to life and is fully adjustable for applying edges between 10 and 35 degrees. The abrasive belts measure 1 by 18 inches and make quick work of any sharpening task. Once you become comfortable with how the sharpener operates, you can consistently grind an even edge on your blades. (Author’s note: Motorized sharpening is best left to those with sharpening experience.) MSRP: $199.95.

Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) offers the Double Sided Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System centered around the company’s Double Sided Diafold folding diamond files. The Magna-Guide System features the Aligner Blade Guide clamp with integrated, adjustable angle guides. A metal guide rod affixes securely to the Double Sided Diafold file via a large rare earth magnet. Attached to an FWCX Extra Coarse/Coarse Double Sided Diafold, the manual system can easily reprofile an edge to any one of seven pre-set angles.

DMT’s Double Sided Diafold diamond files are built well, highly effective, and among the best compact sharpeners on the market. One of the best things about the Magna-Guide is you can use the Double Sided Diafold files as stand-alone sharpeners without the guide rod and angle guide clamp. Consequently, you get a guided sharpening system and a standalone sharpener for the price of one. The Magna-Guide Kit’s MSRP: $27.49 (works with any Double Sided Diafold file).

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4 Must-Have Automatic Knives (2022)

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When it comes to blades that are practical, stylish and bring the THWACK!, you can’t go wrong with these four automatic knives.

What Are The Outstanding Autos:

There’s something irresistible about pressing the button of folding automatic knife and having the blade spring out with a resounding “THWACK!” as it locks open.

Types Of Automatic Knives

Automatic knives or autos come in two basic styles: the traditional side—or radial—openers and out the fronts (OTFs). There’s a great selection of both in today’s factory market. The majority center around the tactical trend in which the spring-powered opening action enjoys viability in high-stress situations where you need instantaneous blade deployment with little effort in action and thinking.

Side-Opening Auto Knives

Pro-Tech TR-3 1X Operator

When it comes to tactical automatic knives, Pro-Tech is a leader in the field. Its designs are highly refined and manufactured with the utmost attention to detail. The Tactical Response folder series is a company best-seller, the TR-3 being one of the most sought-after designs. Eight inches open, it is a great working knife featuring an ergonomic handle of T6-6061 aluminum paired with a drop-point blade of 154CM stainless steel. While the company manufactures different variations of the TR-3, the most eye-catching is the TR-3 X1 Operator Series model.

Pro-tech TR-3

Something you will notice first is the knife is sterile—in other words, there are no markings denoting brand, blade steel or country of origin. It is all black, including the clip and hardware. Topping it off, the lock button is inlaid with a tiny vial of tritium, allowing the button to “light up” in total darkness. The handle has ProTech’s fish-scale machining pattern to aid in grip retention and cool looks. The clip is mounted toward the handle butt to carry the closed folder blade tip up and as low in a pocket as possible.

All black and stealthy, the Pro Tech TR-3 X1 Operator Series folder gets the job done with little fuss and effort.
All black and stealthy, the Pro Tech TR-3 X1 Operator Series folder gets the job done with little fuss and effort.

The TR-3 is how you properly execute an all-black-finished knife. The modified drop-point blade tackles a variety of tasks with ease. American-made 154CM is an industry standard for heavy-use knives, holds a decent edge, and is not as difficult to resharpen as CPM high-performance steels. The handle shape is very appealing with its two large finger recesses to help index your grip, and the slightly tapered profile rests in your hand comfortably with no hot spots. Blade action is very snappy. Pro-Tech officials like strong springs in their automatic knives, so have a firm hold on the handle before you deploy the blade. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): $320. The knife is made in Pro Tech’s Placentia, California, factory.

Boker Plus Karakurt

Danish knifemaker Jesper Voxnaes is one of the hottest knife designers going, and Boker Plus has tapped him for several designs, the Karakurt auto being one of them. Starting with a modified clip-point blade a hair over 3 inches, the material of choice is 154CM stainless steel. The flat grind allows the edge to be thin and exert a great bite, much like the knife’s namesake. (Karakurt is the Eurasian equivalent of the black widow spider.) The handle is T6-6061 aluminum. A large finger recess permits easy indexing of your grip, and the handle curves accommodate the rest of your fingers nicely for a nonslip purchase. A deep-carry pocket clip totes the closed Karakurt blade tip up and low in the pocket for maximum concealment.

Boker Switchblade

Action-wise, the knife is very quick. Press the firing button and the blade opens instantaneously. The overall design isn’t really tactical, though it does share some tactical traits. The Karakurt is designed more for everyday carry, and is excellent at opening mail, packages, breaking down cardboard boxes, stripping electrical wire, cutting corrugated plastic, etc. It carries very well, the slim profile allowing it to blend right into the pocket and have a lightweight footprint. It carries just as easily in casual dress as formal. The blade is available in a stonewash finish or black PVD coat. With an MSRP of $199.99, the Karakurt is priced very competitively to other knives of its class. It is made in the USA by Hogue Knives.

The flat grind of the Boker Plus Karakurt blade helps give it a nice bite. The Karakurt is made in the USA for Boker by Hogue Knives.
The flat grind of the Boker Plus Karakurt blade helps give it a nice bite. The Karakurt is made in the USA for Boker by Hogue Knives.

OTF Auto Knives

OTFs fall under one of two categories. One is single-action, where the blade deploys automatically and you must pull out the charging bar to retract it. A double-action OTF has automatic deployment and retraction of the blade, all by respectively pushing and pulling a slide button on the handle spine. The latter is the most popular, as most every OTF manufacturer makes one.

Heretic Knives Hydra

The Heretic Knives Hydra is a single-action OTF. It offers a choice of 3.6-inch drop-point or tanto pattern blades in CPM S35VN stainless steel. Handles are aluminum alloy machined with traction notches in strategic locations. The pocket clip is a distinctive “H”-shaped fold-over deep carry design and uses four screws as opposed to the standard two. It is anchored to the handle ultra-securely.

Heritic Hydra

The firing button incorporates an unusual safety. It’s a teardrop-shaped cover that pivots downward to allow button access. When released, it covers the firing button to prevent accidental blade deployment. Very ingenious! The bad thing about single-action OTFs is that retracting it requires using both hands: one to hold the handle and press the firing button to unlock the blade, the other to pull back on the charging bar until the blade is fully retracted and locked closed. (Pull a paracord lanyard tied to the charging bar or grab the end of the bar and pull.) The Hydra is well made, and the ergonomic handle is comfortable and offers multiple-grip positioning.

Most OTFs have a boxy profile and maybe two grip positions at most, depending on the size. Admittedly, I am not a fan of the humongous clip but it does a great job at holding the knife to the pocket, and is a deep carry design that positions the Hydra low in the pocket.

The Hydra also has a safety (inset) by the fi ring button to guard against inadvertent opening of the blade.
The Hydra also has a safety (inset) by the fi ring button to guard against inadvertent opening of the blade.

When you fire the blade, it hits hard! Out of the box the blade was plenty sharp and the hollow-ground tanto offered great slicing ability. Heretic provides the knife in multiple handle colors and two blade finishes—we received the black-coated blade with a nice handle anodized blue (MSRP: $435).

Single-action OTFs are probably better suited for occasional use since the two-handed blade retraction can get cumbersome, especially if you have the use of only one hand at a time. Double-action OTF’s are what you need for more frequent use. However, if you collect OTF automatic knives, you need a single action in your collection. In this case, the Hydra is a perfect choice to fill the slot.

Microtech Scarab II

Easily the largest OTF in the Microtech line, the double-action Scarab II is a nice handful. The base steel of choice for the 3.9-inch drop-point blade is M390 stainless, though Microtech also uses other high-end steels depending on what’s on hand in quantity. The 5.25-inch handle is T6-6061 aluminum for lightweight and strength. Inlays of textured rubber tape are integrated to enhance grip in most all conditions.

Microtech OTF Automatic Knife

A hefty push moves the textured actuation button forward to deploy the blade and a backward pull retracts it. The robust push is also a safety feature to avoid inadvertent blade actuation. The action is very quick given the blade’s size and
thickness.

Microtech added three fullers—two in the standard style on the blade’s side, as well as one on the blade spine. They look pretty cool but don’t add to performance. A few mini fullers are close to the blade’s base, where they are partially visible when the blade is deployed.

Given the knife’s size, it works quite well, and blade deployment is very easy even if you’re wearing work gloves. If you wear gloves frequently, this is the OTF for you. The handle is blocky and therefore fits the hand well with or without
gloves.

The Microtech Scarab II is the latest auto Microtech manufactures and the largest of the test group. This formidable-sized OTF is ready to tackle the toughest cutting jobs you may have and does so with aplomb.
The Microtech Scarab II is the latest auto Microtech manufactures and the largest of the test group. This formidable-sized OTF is ready to tackle the toughest cutting jobs you may have and does so with aplomb.

The Scarab II is adept at handling bigger cutting tasks, and has excellent slicing capabilities given the blade’s length. It could easily be used as a food prep knife, as it does great in the kitchen. The flat ground blade sails through a variety of media and is easy to resharpen. M390 holds an excellent edge and, unlike S30V, is relatively simple to resharpen. Carry is a snap thanks to the heavy-duty steel pocket clip. It’s secured to the handle butt with a special conical glass breaker screw that has an inlaid steel ball bearing for transmitting impact energy to the glass.

If you’re looking for an EDC-able Microtech OTF, the Scarab II may not be your choice due to its larger size. You’ll need to look at the company’s smaller Ultratech series instead. However, for tactical or extended-period hard use, the Scarab II fits the bill perfectly. The MSRP is $551, making it one of the most expensive production OTFs—but it’s worth it!


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Knife Sharpening: What’s the Best Angle?

The best sharpening angle depends on the use of the knife, the thickness of the blade, the type of blade steel, the sharpening materials used and more.

What is the Best Sharpening Angle?

What determines the best sharpening angle? The answer is one that plagues knife neophytes and old hands alike.

“The best angle of sharpening is one of those very intriguing topics that many have explored but most have come up with different answers,” states Jake Broce, online marketing coordinator for A.G. Russell Knives.

Agrees Kyle Crawford, brand manager for Work Sharp, “The answer is often different for everyone.”

He says the two keys are knife type/use and edge retention/maintenance. In fact, all of our story sources cited the intended use of the knife as a deciding factor. For tough chores such as chopping or batonning, a wider angle is best.

“Generally, the wider the angle of edge, the more steel is behind it, which increases the edge’s toughness,” Broce observes.

“For kitchen knives that see light duty cutting food on cutting boards, or a task-specific hunting knife like a camping knife, a low angle is ideal,” counters Crawford.

By “low” he means an edge angle between 15 and 20 degrees.

Find angle for sharpening knives
Knives come with a standard edge from the factory, around 22 degrees inclusive. The edge is sharp and durable, and a good middle-of-the-road angle that is a good balance between durability and cutting ease. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is set here to sharpen at 22 degrees. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Edge angle also affects edge retention.

“If you sharpen your heavy-use EDC knife to a low angle such as 15 degrees, it will be incredibly sharp,” Crawford says, “but the trade-off you are making is edge retention and durability.”

Conversely, he adds, if you sharpen at a wider angle, such as 25 degrees, the edge will still be very sharp but you gain improved edge retention and, thus, eliminate the need for more frequent maintenance.

However, Kendra Tobler, marketing communications manager for Benchmade Knife Co., indicates grades of blade steel also factor in as well.

“A harder steel with higher yield strength can be ground to a small included angle with less worry about rolling or deforming the edge,” she says. “Conventionally cast steels with large carbides are better suited to larger included angles.”

Knife sharpening tips
Lesser grades of steel such as the 7Cr17MoV stainless of the Gerber Tri-Tip should not be taken down to an acute angle. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

This is done so for edge durability. A prime example of Tobler’s point is Benchmade’s 15017-1 Hidden Canyon Hunter, a compact drop-point fixed blade in premium CPM S90V stainless steel well known for its extreme edge-holding ability.

Benchmade uses its SelectEdge 14-degree included edge on the knife. It is ground thinner because S90V is a high-yield-strength steel that can retain its strength with a thinner edge without deforming or chipping.

Blade Steel Sharpening Tips
With task-specific knives of high-yield-strength steels for hunting/field dressing, you may opt for a more acute edge angle, anywhere between 15 and 20 degrees. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Blade thickness is a factor as well.

“Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.”

And it usually takes time to thin down a thick blade.

As he warns, “If you choose to sharpen a low edge angle onto a thick blade, be prepared to be patient.”

How to sharpen knives
Blade thickness is a factor as well. “Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.” (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Establishing Angles

How should you go about establishing the edge angle when you sharpen? A safe bet is to invest in a sharpener that sets and maintains the edge angle for you—all you have to do is set the sharpener to the desired angle.

“Angle guides are tried and true and solve one of the biggest sharpening challenges—establish the angle and be consistent,” Crawford says.

Cautions Broce, “The first time you use [a guide kit] on your knife will usually take the longest, as your edge angle adjusts to the way you use the sharpener.”

The angle guide kits subtract the science of maintaining a consistent angle, so all you need do is concentrate on getting the edge sharp. The kits have been a game changer for consumers who struggle with freehand sharpening on a bench stone.

Knife Sharpening Tips
A good tip is the black marker trick. Using a permanent black marker with a wider chisel tip, color the edge bevel on both sides of the blade. The goal is to sharpen the blade—here on the Gerber Tri-Tip—removing the black marker ink from both sides. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Another good tip, regardless of which sharpener you use, is the tried-and-true black marker trick. Using a permanent black marker with a wider chisel tip, color the edge bevel on both sides of the blade. The goal is to sharpen the blade, removing the black marker ink from both sides. When you accomplish this, your edge angle is correct and you should have a sharp blade.

“The goal is to remove all of the ink in one swipe,” Crawford says. “If you are removing the marker at the cutting edge, your edge angle is too high and you are micro-beveling.”

From there adjust your edge angle to a lower degree and take a few more passes to see how the ink is being removed.

“It is a process of trial and error,” Crawford notes.

Tobler is another proponent of the marker method. “It helps for matching the edge angle already on the blade when resharpening,” she observes.

Grind Knife Sharpening Tips
According to Jason Broce of A.G. Russell Knives, “The blade grind determines how much steel is behind the edge. More steel behind the edge improves edge stability, whereas less material behind the edge can improve the pass-through.” (Marty Stanfield Photography)

You can use the method in conjunction with one of the guide kits even if the kit holds the angle constant for you. The method enables you to see how much more you must sharpen off in order for the edge bevel to be reestablished.

In this regard, you’re using it to determine how much more you have to go as opposed to if you’re holding the angle correctly.

Another tip is sharpen in a well-lighted area. Good visibility is very important and key to doing a thorough, well-executed sharpening job. And if you use the marker method a lot, abundant lighting helps you see clearer without eye strain.

Finally is sharpener selection. You can use any quality sharpener as long as it fits the steel type. The key here is to select a sharpener you feel very comfortable in using.

Blade sharpening tips
Another tip is sharpen in a well-lighted area. Good visibility is very important and key to doing a thorough, well-executed sharpening job. And if you use the marker method a lot, abundant lighting helps you see clearer without eye strain. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Knife Sharpening Safety

Sharpening can be dangerous, so be sure you are in the right frame of mind when you do it—not mentally or physically tired, nor pre-occupied. Focus on sharpening with little to no distractions.

Not only is your own personal safety at stake, but the more focused you are, the better job you can do. This is especially true if you’re learning a new sharpening technique, such as re-establishing edge angles.

Most of all, be safe, have fun and take satisfaction in the knowledge that, once you master establishing edge angles, you have become self-sufficient at sharpening.

Knife Sharpening Safety Tips
Focus on sharpening with little to no distractions. Not only is your own personal safety at stake, but the more focused you are, the better job you can do. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

4 AWESOME LINERLOCK EDC KNIVES

When it comes to EDC folder locks, the linerlock is hard to beat

Few folding knife locks perform as well for everyday carry (EDC) as the linerlock. Constructed properly, the linerlock is easy to open and, especially on a knife that includes a blade opener and a pocket clip, is a snap to carry, deploy, open and close, all with one hand—an EDC hallmark.

CRKT Knives CEO

Designed by award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers, the CEO Bamboo linerlock folder is one of the more slender knives from CRKT. It’s an unobtrusive folder that won’t weigh you down and is ideal for dress suit carry. In fact, it can carry attached to a shirt pocket a la a ballpoint pen. It blends well with the office crowd, as it is a low profile design that will not raise eyebrows.

Just over 3 inches long, the blade is 8Cr13MoV stainless steel for a good balance of edge holding and resharpening ease. The trailing-point blade opens quickly and efficiently via a thumb stud. The pivot’s Ikoma Korth Bearing System (IKBS) enhances smooth blade action. A saber-style primary grind combined with a full-length swedge grind gives the blade a bit of attitude.

Award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers designed the CEO Bamboo from CRKT to be the quintessential office carry folder. It is tailored for such daily uses as trimming stray threads from clothing.

The handle consists of two stainless steel liners and glass-reinforced nylon scales. The scales are molded in a color and shape/texture to mimic bamboo. The handle’s squared off butt resembles the classic doctor’s knife/pillbuster pocketknife pattern. A deep carry, fold-over clip allows the knife to ride low in a pants or shirt pocket, or inside a sport coat breast pocket.

The linerlock engages firmly and secures the blade open with no play. Simply hit the thumb stud and the blade pops open fast to the locked position thanks to the IKBS. Firmly push the edge of the exposed portion of the lock spring, and the blade unlocks and rotates closed as easily as it opens. I like how simple it is to open and close the blade, especially for such a slender folder. Many such folders do not manipulate easily due to their size.

Opening mail is one of the many tasks the slender blade of the CRKT CEO Bamboo does well.

And for a slender folder, the CEO has plenty of bite. The slim blade slits open envelopes and packages effortlessly. I like how it blends in and does its thing with no unnecessary fanfare. The only negative about the CEO is also a positive—the deep carry clip. The fold-over design creates a hot spot when you grip the handle but carries the closed folder deep in the pocket, which is nice. Given that the knife isn’t made for prolonged, heavy duty use, I find the clip to be a good thing. Made in China, the CEO has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $54.99. It is a great value.

EXCELLENT SLICER: Citadel Kampot

The Citadel Kampot linerlock folder sports a 3-inch drop point blade of Bohler N690 stainless steel. N690 is a mid-grade stainless with great edge holding properties but also is rather easy to resharpen. It is a fine alternative to today’s “super steels.” The ergonomic handle has double stainless steel liners and stabilized blue beech scales. Red liners add a subtle pop of color. The scales are nicely rounded and contoured so the folder rests in your grip comfortably with no hot spots. An integrated guard prevents your hand from sliding onto the blade edge and, together with a bird’s beak butt, keeps your hand on the handle.

The linerlock secures tightly with zero blade play. Five large notches in the end of the liner aid thumb traction in unlocking the blade. The Kampot has a nail nick opener instead of a thumb stud, hole, disc or flipper, so it is the only knife of the test bunch that requires two hands to open, though it does close with one hand like the others. Neither does it have a clip.

The Citadel Kampot (left) easily rivals most any working folder with its drop point blade. The high polish of the steel makes it easy to clean as well.

At 4.5 inches closed the Kampot is rather large, which might make it a bit uncomfortable for pocket carry. A braided leather lanyard attached to the handle permits you to fish the folder easily from a pocket. The knife is good looking, with the blade, liners and handle screws exhibiting a high polish.

The flat-ground blade is an excellent slicer. However, out of the box it was not as sharp as I prefer. I gave it a few light strokes on a ceramic rod followed by stropping and that enhanced its bite. The grip is very comfortable and a great alternative to folders with flat handle profiles. It is really nice looking. The beech scales differ slightly in color. The test model has streaks of tan and blue-green as well. It reminds me of how brass and copper patina when exposed to the elements over time and get a blueish green hue. The Kampot is a great alternative if you’re not into the all black and edgy tactical folder look. The blade pivot is not exposed, so the pivot tension is not adjustable. This cleans up the look, though I know some knife guys like to adjust the pivot tension to their own liking.

Citadel’s Kampot folder is a bit rough around the edges but remains a very efficient cutting tool. The flat-ground blade slices through a variety of materials with gusto.

A negative is the knife’s size, though for some that is a good thing. The lack of a clip is compounded by the lack of a belt sheath. The Kampot needs one. For me, the knife is too big to carry in the pocket, so belt carry would be the best option. On the other hand, ready-made belt sheaths are rather easy to find (a good source is Smoky Mountain Knife Works at smkw.com/knife-accessories/sheaths). Made in Cambodia, the Kampot has an MSRP of $205. 

CHECKS ’EM ALL: Puma SGB

The Mach 1, along with the Sonic, are linerlock flipper folders Puma SGB introduced in 2020. They are identical, sharing the same handle materials/design and blade material. The only difference is the Sonic features a clip point blade and the Mach 1 has a modified drop point. With its hollow ground main bevel and generous, sweeping belly, the 3.6-inch blade in the latter pattern accomplishes a wide variety of cutting tasks. It is a large folder ideal for the ample knife jobs you have, indoors or out.

The German 1.4116 stainless steel holds an edge well and is fairly easy to resharpen. It is a steel found mainly in kitchen knives and is highly stain resistant. It isn’t commonly used in the knife industry, and expect performance to be equivalent to 440A or even 420HC stainless. Its lower overall production costs are passed on to you in the form of a great value.

A flipper tab offers quick and effortless one-hand deployment. The swift, smooth action is aided by a pair of ceramic caged ball bearings in the pivot. The handle features nice carbon fiber scales, giving the Mach 1 a modern, futuristic appearance—it is eye catching the way the light reflects off the strands in the weave pattern. The chamfered edges of the carbon fiber are textured to aid grip retention. A deep carry, fold-over pocket clip totes the closed folder blade tip down in the pocket, deep enough to conceal the knife yet hold it within easy reach.

The Puma SGB Mach 1 matches 1.4116 stainless steel with a sturdy handle sporting carbon fiber scales and stainless steel liners. The blade rides on ceramic bearings for smooth opening and closing.

The Mach 1 checks all the boxes: great fit and finish, silky smooth blade action, and super sharp and ready to work right out of the box. The drop point blade adapts to most any task. The edge has a nice bite and easily sinks into the material being cut. As wide as the handle is, you can get a really good grip that instills confidence. The open-frame handle promotes ease of cleaning. Country of  origin: China. MSRP: $149.99. For the money, it’s a solid value in features and performance.

The hollow grind of the Puma SGB Mach 1’s drop point blade (middle left) helps provide plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.

NEW LEVEL of CHIC: F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives

Taking EDC folders to a new level of chic, the F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives features bold styling with a sheepsfoot blade and an ergonomic handle. The 3.4-inch blade is Bohler N690 stainless steel. The flat grind is tailored for both stout utility applications and lateral strength. A flipper is integrated for fast opening and is assisted by ceramic bearings, which promote super-smooth action and rapid deployment.

A large finger recess at the pivot allows you to index the G-10 grip, while the “bird’s beak” butt captures your hand. The G-10 has a light 3-D machining pattern that aids purchase. Traction notches at the thumb rest on the spine supply grip to bear down for power cuts. Dual nested stainless steel liners provide a rigid backbone and the nesting feature reduces overall handle thickness. Two large standoffs add style. A smaller standoff at the rear acts as a tie-off point for a lanyard (not included).

Even the pocket clip is nicely done. It’s sculpted, styled titanium that carries the closed folder blade tip up and is secured via one large screw. The clip’s shape mimics the handle’s curvature, and the overlay adds to aesthetics. It’s great to see a company put extra effort and thought into the clip, which looks better than standard stamped clips. It definitely holds the knife securely in the pocket.

The F24-33 Nutcracker has a black stonewashed blade, black liners, standoffs and clip, and a green G-10 handle. At 4.5 inches closed, the  knife is sized just right to handle just about any cutting task. The linerlock secures quite tightly at the lower third of the tang with no blade play. A series of traction notches at the exposed portion of the liner permits the thumb to easily seat and secure itself to unlock the blade. 

 

HOW LINERLOCKS SHOULD LOCK

Many knife nuts in-the-know have certain preferences to where a brand new linerlock knife’s lock spring should hit on the tang when the blade is locked open. Some prefer it to hit in the lower third of the tang, from the linerlock side. Some prefer it to hit in the middle.

One thing to remember about linerlocks is there is a break-in period for the lock. In other words, as the metal on the end of the lock spring wears to conform with the tang, it is likely that the spring will travel more toward the center of the tang—not a whole lot, just a little. Hence, it is probably best to select a linerlock knife where the spring hits on the lower third so it can compensate some following the break-in period.

— by Dexter Ewing

Above: The test linerlocks exhibit how they wedge the blades open at the tangs, from left: Steel Will Nutcracker, Puma SGB Mach I, Citadel Kampot and CRT CEO Bamboo. On the tang of the blade where the linerlock spring directly hits, the face is machined at an angle so that when the spring moves into place, there is a wedging effect that stops the spring from moving any farther. Titanium is an ideal material for the spring as titanium tends to gall, or stick, to steel, and, of course, the tang is steel.

5 Leading Sharpening Rods

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5 LEADING SHARPENING RODS TAKE THE AUTHOR’S SHARP TEST

The sharpening rod is perhaps the No. 1 kitchen knife accessory in many households. Why? Usually 8 to 12 inches long, it is a hardened steel rod with a coating of industrial diamonds that helps abrade steel and lightly sharpens a  cutting edge. Most models are basic and there’s not much to them. They are more effective than standard butcher-type steels that align the edge and don’t remove material, and are good for regular maintenance of kitchen knives in between professional sharpening.

Accusharp 9-inch

Accusharp offers a 9-inch sharpening steel, model #034C. The ergonomic, rubber overmold handle makes it easy to hold thanks to the non-slip grip. It stores easily in a drawer or hangs from an extra-large handle hole. The guard is round, so the sharpener will roll when you set it down, which can be annoying. It does not come with a container for protection while not in use.

The steel and its fine abrasive in a 1500 grit maintains a blade well. My only complaint is with the soft rubber part of the co-molded handle. The rubber is in a diagonal shape and on one end closest to the guard of the test model, it is visibly raised and you can peel it back a bit. However, if it comes undone, you can easily fix it with a strong adhesive. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $34.99.

TOOTHIER EDGES: Lansky’s Diamond Sharp Stick

The handle of Lansky’s 9-inch Diamond Sharp Stick is a dual-material, rubber overmold for both comfort and durability. Like most sharpening-steel handles, a full integral guard protects your hand from accidental cuts. A split ring affixed to the handle’s end provides for hanging the rod on a hook or nail.

The Sharp Stick has a hard plastic tube that fits over it and secures in place by an O-ring that slides down the rod close to the guard. You can remove the O-ring but you must leave it on to take advantage of the hard plastic tube to protect the sharpening rod surface when stored. The O-ring is positioned far down on the handle to not interfere with operation.

I discovered something interesting with the Sharp Stick. As with all the test models, the grit is fine but the Lansky seemed most aggressive in the cut and produces a toothier edge than the rest. In my opinion this is very good, as I prefer a toothier edge on my kitchen knives, though some do not.

The rubber gripping portion of the handle is textured well, and offers a great purchase with wet or dry hands. The guard is also robust in appearance, as some equate robustness with better quality. That’s not always the case but with this one it definitely is. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $33.99.

Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) DS2F

In my opinion, the Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) DS2F diamond sharpening steel is superior in several ways to the balance of the test rods. The fine-grit diamond-coated model has a red plastic/rubber tip. DMT uses a color-coded system to denote various grits, including red for fine. The tip also helps stabilize the rod on a flat surface. The DS2F ships in a nice, clear vinyl pouch that locks around the guard. The pouch is great for storage.

While the other test models have dual-molded handles that incorporate hard plastic and firm rubber for comfort, the DMT has a hard plastic one. However, don’t turn your nose up just yet. The handle tapers gradually toward the guard, which makes the entire grip fill your hand nicely. There are also five grooves on the tapered part that enhance a secure hold. The guard has four semi-circular cutouts to provide anti-roll qualities, which I really like. The DMT doesn’t roll at all when you put it down. A plastic shackle attached to the handle end for hanging also is color-coded to grit. The shackle can be removed if you desire. It’s creature comforts like these that make the difference between a good product and a great one.

The DMT is definitely a top performer. The 12-inch rod captures pretty much all sizes of kitchen knives. Of all the test models, I felt the DMT produced the finest edge, that is, the edge isn’t toothy or grabby, it’s just plain sharp. The D2SF leaves a nice, refined finish on the cutting edge.

One thing about the handle shape: Since it tapers toward the guard, it forces you to nestle your hand up against the guard when holding it. This stabilizes the sharpener in your hand. When you grip it farther away from the guard, the sharpener isn’t as stable—something to consider. If you prefer holding your sharpening rod, you might want to get the DMT for this very feature. This is just a top-notch, high-end sharpener. Country of origin: USA. MSRP: $53.59.

EZE-Lap Model G

The 8-inch EZE-Lap Model G is the shortest of the test models. The shorter rod allows for easy use as well as com pact storage inside a drawer. It comes in a fine grit to produce a nice working edge in a minimal amount of time. The large-diameter plastic handle has enough girth for a comfortable hold. The integral guard is very much like the DMT D2SF’s, with a non-round shape that helps curb rolling on a flat surface. Well done! An extra-large handle hole promotes hanging for storage.

EZE-Lap’s Model G round-profile diamond sharpening rod is only 8 inches long, which makes it the shortest rod evalu- ated, though that doesn’t mean it is any less effective. The shorter overall length stores in a drawer easily or in cramped quarters such as in an RV.

The thing about a shorter rod like the Model G is you must be quick on the draw when working on longer kitchen knives, such as 8-inch chef’s knives and up. Compared to 10- and 12-inch rods, you’re losing real estate to work from and must pull the blade across the length of the Model G quicker. For shorter blades, this should not be an issue. On the other hand, the smaller size is ideal for camping, traveling in an RV, etc.

The Model G ships in a stiff paper sleeve, which can be reused to protect the rod as well as other items stored near/by it. The sharpener felt very coarse to the touch out of the packaging. All diamond sharpeners do. As you use them they will smooth out, though this has no bearing on performance, and performance-wise the EZE-Lap does very well. Country of origin: USA. MSRP: $31.95.

Work Sharp Culinary M3 Sharpener

The Work Sharp Culinary M3 sharpener takes the basic diamond-coated steel rod sharpener and improves on its function by offering choices. The M3 comes with not one but two rods—coarse-grit steel with a diamond coating and a fine-grit ceramic rod. Both rods interchange with the included ergonomic handle and are secured in place by strong magnets.

The 8.25-inch steel rod tapers gradually from handle to tip. At the end of the rod is a rubber button, which helps stabilize the sharpener when the end is placed on a table or countertop and the handle is held with one hand. It sounds like a typical steel rod until you get to the handle.

Instead of the standard integral, flared guard is a pair of ramped surfaces that serve as angle guides. When you hold the sharpener upright, place the side of the blade on the rod and rest it against the ramped surface. Then, with the standard motion using a rod sharpener, travel down the rod, holding the blade at the preset angle. Bring the opposite side of the blade to the other side of the rod and repeat. The gripping part of the handle is firm-textured rubber, and a thumb divot on the end helps stabilize the sharpener in use.

A little “MicroForge” slot in one of the guides contains a small yet wide serrated wheel. After you get a sharp edge, remove the rod from the handle and place the end of the handle on the table, in similar fashion to how you were sharpening. Place the blade in the slot at the tip. With light pressure, push the blade through until the handle gets to the tang, then stop. The serrated wheel will crimp the edge slightly, forming tiny and evenly spaced micro serrations. The serrations act like bigger serrations found on other kitchen knives. Using the MicroForge feature is not mandatory, but it is designed as an additional function to help provide the longest-lasting edge possible.

The steel rod cuts fast to restore dull edges. It provides a working edge in a minimal amount of time. Follow up with the fine ceramic rod after the edge has been established to refine it further. The ceramic rod’s smooth and fluted sides give a choice of edge finishes: a bit more bite with the latter and a more polished edge with the former.

The M3 ships in a sturdy cardboard box, the sharpener parts store inside a tray, and the tray slides into the box. The steel rod has a protective plastic sleeve, too. It is the most comprehensive of the test lot. Country of origin: Parts sourced globally, U.S. assembled/calibrated. MSRP: $69.99.

HOW TO USE A ROD

No matter the brand or model, sharpening steels are used the same way. Most manufacturers recommend using one while standing at the kitchen counter or seated at a table.

Take the sharpening steel and place the tip on the table, held upright with the handle at the top. With one hand, grasp the handle firmly, keeping it perpendicular with the flat surface at all times. With the other hand, grasp the knife handle and place the blade at a 20-to-30 degree angle in relation to the sharpening steel. Place the blade as close to the guard as possible, set to start at the part of the blade closest to the tang. In one motion, move the blade down the length of the rod while at the same time draw the blade fully across the steel. When you near the flat surface you are working from, though without touching the surface, you should be at the blade tip.

Raise the blade to where you started from, switching the blade to the opposite side, then repeat the same stroke. Then, return to the side you started from, and repeat once again. Do an equal amount of strokes for both sides of the blade.

As you become more comfortable using the sharpening steel, you can forego the flat surface and hold the steel with one hand similar to how you would a large kitchen knife. With the other hand, place the blade on the rod at the recommended 20-to-30 degree angle and lightly push the blade across the rod, ending at the blade tip. I highly recommend you not proceed to this step until you are confident enough, because with this alternate method chances for not holding the angle correctly is greater.

Whatever method you use, remember to always use light strokes. There is no need to bear down on the blade with pressure. Let the rod do the work.

4 Carbon Cutters: Steel With An Old School Feel

Carbon steel knives continue to be among the top factory performers.

High-performance stainless steels—CPM S30V, S35VN, S90V and 20CV, along with CPM 154, M390 and CTS 204P, to name some— rule in many corners of today’s knife market. While such steels exhibit astonishing edge-holding power and the ability to go the distance without much maintenance, the tradeoff is they can be difficult to sharpen. With the ascendance of such “super steels” you might think carbon steels would be gone for good.

Nothing could be further from the truth. While carbon steels may not attract the attention they once did, that doesn’t mean they’re no less a viable option for hunting, camping and even tactical knives. Many still prefer carbon steels over the high-performance stainless ones, and the primary reason is ease of sharpening, especially in the field. While carbon steels require a bit more maintenance, such as a light coat of oil to prevent corrosion and staining, they can give premium stainless steels a run for the money. Another factor is the all-important lower cost of carbon steels.

 

SANDBOX STEEL: A.G. Russell Knives Sandbox Dagger

Photo from agrussell.com

The inspiration for the Sandbox Dagger from A.G. Russell Knives comes straight from the old Camillus Marine Raider Stiletto and legendary Fairbairn-Sykes dagger, both of World War II fame. BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member A.G. Russell’s intent was to recreate the effectiveness of the venerable dagger designs while boosting the durability of the blade, as the tapered, relatively thin blades were prone to break. Carefully studying the old combat knives, A.G. devised the Sandbox Dagger.

Most daggers fail with broken tips. The A.G. Russell Sandbox Dagger in DM1 carbon steel is redesigned to allow for more blade tip thickness. The knife survived this sideways snap-out treatment with no damage whatsoever.

Beginning with a wider blade that takes longer to taper, thus giving it more body, he discovered new ways of grinding that allowed more stock thickness to remain, enhancing lateral strength. Traditionally a weak spot for daggers, the point thickness is more considerable as well. Another A.G. idea was to offer a “varied edge angle.” Most of the blade would be sharpened at A.G.’s preferred angle of 15 degrees, but toward the tip it changes to a more obtuse angle to bolster point strength. Phil Gibbs, company design engineer, was in charge of torture testing prototypes.  One of the tests he successfully performed was driving the dagger through an AK-47 magazine, with absolutely no damage to the tip, and the edge remaining very sharp.

The Sandbox Dagger from A.G. Russell is a highly functional cutting tool. It sliced up cardboard just as well as any single-edge knife would. It is razor sharp out of the box.

The 6-inch blade is DM1 steel, named in honor of bladesmith/metallurgist Dan Maragni, who assisted in its development and heat treatment for A.G. Russell Knives. It is a modified version of the 0170-6C carbon steel the old Camillus used when it made the Becker Knife & Tool line. (Today, KA-BAR makes all BK&T knives.) DM1 can sustain hard use without edge deformation or chipping, yet remains easy to resharpen.

The ergonomic handle is green, rib-textured Rucarta. The rounded handle expands toward the tang to better fit your hand. Indentations on either side give your thumb a non-slip resting place for grip retention, as well as a reference point for blade indexing. The blade is razor sharp out of the box.  Manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): $375. 

 

A-R-RMY, SIR! Case Hambone

Photo source: knifecenter.com

Knifemaker Daniel Winkler and U.S. Army veteran Clint Romesha (page ??) designed the Case Hambone to be a “do-all” field knife for field dressing, batonning wood, preparing food and more. Hambone was the nickname of the legendary U.S. Army pack mule Hamilton T. Bone. Hambone was based at Fort Carson, Colorado, as part of the pack mule program and served from 1943-56, including two combat missions during World War II—the same base Romesha operated from during his military career. 

Is it tactical or outdoor? How about both? The Case Hambone is a heavy-duty fixed blade of 80CrV2 carbon steel that will serve either function very well. The flat-ground blade slices easily.

Hambone the knife embodies the hardworking spirit of Hambone the pack mule. The 80CrV2 carbon steel is tough and holds an edge. The trailing point/skinner blade is 4.75 inches with a full flat grind and generous belly that facilitate chores like slicing and chopping/batonning. Handle material options are black canvas Micarta®, curly maple and black textured rubber. The finger-grooved handle with a bird’s-beak butt and integral guard ensures a secure grip in most conditions.

The eight stars engraved on the handle spine memorialize Romesha’s eight teammates who gave their lives during the Battle of Kamdesh in Afghanistan (page ??). The exposed blade tang can be employed as a hammer or glass breaker. The felt-lined Kydex sheath promotes sure knife retention and easy deployment equally well. Rather than having a typical fold-over or sandwich construction, the sheath uses a Micarta spacer to separate its Kydex halves. The OD green Kydex features black overlay with a star laser cut into it to symbolize the Army’s colors and logo.

The eight stars on the blade spine of the Case/Winkler Hambone memorialize the eight men who were part ofArmy Staff Sgt. Clint Romesha’s Cavalry unit who perished during a 2009 battle with Afghan rebels. Along with Daniel Winkler, Romesha designed the Hambone.

The Hambone’s deep blade belly is great for cutting meats and vegetables. The blade is fairly thick up to the tip, which makes it strong for heavy use and abuse. The handle is quite comfortable, providing ample blade control at all times, even with wet hands. The Micarta material is an excellent choice for an all-around user.

The only downside might be the weight. Some may find the knife too heavy on a belt, but, then again, the weight is one of the contributing factors to its cutting power. MSRPs: $325.99 (black canvas Micarta), $333.99 (curly maple) and $342.99 (textured rubber).   

 

TACTICAL CLASSIC: Steel Will Barghest

The Steel Will Barghest has all the hallmarks of a great tactical folder. The test model’s modified clip-point blade of 3.5 inches is full-flat ground from D2 tool steel, a favorite among production companies and custom makers for its toughness and ease of sharpening.  The blade opens via a flipper or ambidextrous thumb studs, and the swedge grind adds a bit of attitude. The action is quick, smooth and precise, with the blade riding on a pair of phosphor bronze washers.

The Barghest and its D2 tool steel blade is the latest tactical folder from Steel Will. It comes in two sizes and two blade finishes, and features flipper opening as well as dual thumb studs. It’s a rugged EDC folder at a great MSRP ($84.99 and $89.99)

The handle is a study in the perfect tactical folder design well suited for prolonged use regardless of the elements. The  integral guard prevents your hand from slipping forward, and the handle gracefully curves and expands slightly at the midsection to fill your palm nicely without feeling too unwieldy.  The blade secures via a linerlock, and dual steel liners provide rigidity. Black G-10 scales feature a series of machined grooves that enhance your grip with or without gloves. A pronounced chamfer on the edges of the scales makes the Barghest feel very comfortable, eliminating any hot spots. A fold-over steel pocket clip carries the knife deep in a pocket. Steel Will also offers a second clip for lefties—just switch clips. The G-10 handle spacer sports large  traction notches, and is slightly oversized to make the notches stand out.

The Steel Will Barghest and its D2 blade packs the punch to get tough cutting jobs accomplished and still hold an edge very well.

The Barghest offers what I like in a tactical folder. The blade shape and size is ideal for many cutting tasks, not too small nor too large, and has plenty of bite to power through a variety of tough materials. D2 is a time-proven steel that withstands abuse yet is easy to maintain.

The only negative I see is the pocket clip.  Yes, it is a positive as well, but not everyone likes the deep-carry feature, as no part of the handle sticks above the pocket to grab onto. Hence, you must fish around a bit to grab the knife. Hey, you can’t please everyone! MSRPs: $84.99 (3.5-inch blade) and $89.99 (4-inch blade).

 

STOUT as it is SOLID: Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc

condortk.com

The Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc features a 5.5-inch drop-point blade of 1075 carbon steel mated to two-tone black-and-blue paper Micarta scales and a black phenolic bolster. The knife is a handful, a beast that can tackle any cutting task at camp or, in a pinch, use for combat. It is stout as it is solid. The satin-finished blade’s full flat grind is aces in cutting efficiency. A series of traction notches filed into the blade spine provide optimal positioning for applying downward pressure for tougher cutting tasks.

The Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc and its beastly blade of 1075 carbon steel can tackle most any camp cutting task.

The handle sports a generous palm swell that fills your grip comfortably, is non-slip and offers precise blade control. Micarta is an excellent choice for using knives because it is strong yet lightweight. It is impervious to most fluids and isn’t affected by weather changes, humidity, heat or most any external factor that would cause integrity issues. Plus, it comes in a myriad of hues to please the pickiest knife enthusiast. The dual-color Micarta® layers show through, adding an exciting visual texture, more so than any solid color Micarta can offer. Integral front and rear guards prevent unwanted hand movement in either direction, and the front guard enables you to choke up to exercise control for precise cutting. As big as the knife is, it’s important that it be able to tackle finer cutting as well, especially in a camp or survival scenario.

The Condor Tool & Knife Havoc is an edged tool to take on your next camping trip. Its droppoint blade and ergonomic handle are ideal for a variety of cutting tasks.

The Blue Havoc’s sheath materials are an unusual mix: molded Kydex and a leather belt loop. Most Kydex sheaths usually have either a Kydex belt loop or some sort of quick-release attachment, such as a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok. The reason Condor went with the leather belt loop on a Kydex sheath is to allow you to remount the belt loop in the event the sheath orientation must be reversed to accommodate left-hand/side-body carry. Simply remove/replace two screws to dismount/remount the loop. Also, the leather allows the entire sheath to move on your belt to a degree to prevent the knife from being caught up in bushes, branches, etc.

Condor’s catalog states the Blue Havoc can be used in either a tactical or outdoor setting, though due to its appearance, the knife is probably better suited for outdoor use. Moreover, the drop-point blade shape makes it a great camp utility knife for food prep or field dressing/skinning tasks. The 1075 carbon steel resharpens very well, which helps at the campsite. MSRP: $134.98.  

STILL RELEVANT

Carbon steel is alive and well at a time when super steels are all the rage. It remains the steel of choice of many hardcore knife users, not only for the lower cost but primarily for the ease of sharpening. It may require a bit more maintenance than stainless, but carbon steel is still relevant and here to stay.

 

How to Use a Knife Sharpening Rod

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No matter the brand or model, sharpening steels are used the same way. Most manufacturers recommend using one while standing at the kitchen counter or seated at a table.

The Set Up

Take the sharpening steel and place the tip on the table, held upright with the handle at the top.

With one hand, grasp the handle firmly, keeping it perpendicular with the flat surface at all times.

With the other hand, grasp the knife handle and place the blade at a 20-to-30 degree angle in relation to the sharpening steel. Place the blade as close to the guard as possible, set to start at the part of the blade closest to the tang.

Move the Blade

In one motion, move the blade down the length of the rod while at the same time draw the blade fully across the steel. When you near the flat surface you are working from, though without touching the surface, you should be at the blade tip.

Repeat

Raise the blade to where you started from, switching the blade to the opposite side, then repeat the same stroke. Then, return to the side you started from, and repeat once again. Do an equal amount of strokes for both sides of the blade.

Getting Better

As you become more comfortable using the sharpening steel, you can forego the flat surface and hold the steel with one hand similar to how you would a large kitchen knife. With the other hand, place the blade on the rod at the recommended 20-to-30 degree angle and lightly push the blade across the rod, ending at the blade tip.

I highly recommend you not proceed to this step until you are confident enough, because with this alternate method chances for not holding the angle correctly is greater.

Let the Rod Do the Work

Whatever method you use, remember to always use light strokes. There is no need to bear down on the blade with pressure. Let the rod do the work.

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