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Dexter Ewing

Best Hunting Knife: Four Fab Factory Fixed Blades

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Planning for a backwoods excursion? Here are four of the best hunting knife options, the fixed blade variety, presently rolling off factory lines.

As the fall outdoor season approaches, it’s important to assess your gear and decide if you need to purchase new equipment—hunting knives included. It’s time to maintain what you have or buy brand new models that will assist in camp chores and/or dressing game.

Fixed-blade hunters play an important role on the hunt as they do a lot more than just field dress. They also help prepare meals, prep firewood for cooking, and any other cutting chores that crop up. 

Ontario Knife Co ADK Keene Valley Hunter

An example of one of the latest such edged tools is the ADK Keene Valley Hunter from Ontario Knife Co. The wide drop-point blade of 420HC stainless steel adapts to cutting or camp tasks easily. It offers plenty of belly to do the aforementioned chores and field dressing, too. Full-tang construction provide plenty of strength and balance. Interesting multicolor Micarta® scales supply a great grip in all weather conditions, and are highly resistant to cracking, chipping and peeling. The material’s highly stable nature and purchase qualities make it a favorite among users. The scales are tapered from the handle spine, allowing the knife to rest in your hand comfortably. The integral single guard and distinctive choil work in harmony to enable you to choke up on the handle for ever-greater cutting control and user confidence.

 The deep-bellied blade of the Ontario ADK Keene Valley Hunter slices large cutting jobs down to size. ADK is short for the Adirondack Mountains, a range in Ontario’s home state of New York.
The best hunting knife? The deep-bellied blade of the Ontario ADK Keene Valley Hunter makes a case for it. It easily slices large cutting jobs down to size. ADK is short for the Adirondack Mountains, a range in Ontario’s home state of New York.

While 420HC is not my blade material of choice on such a knife, it has a good combination of both edge holding and ease of sharpening. Rounding out the package is a nicely sewn and riveted leather sheath that sports button-snap retention to hold the knife. Sheaths are often an area some manufacturers cut corners on to save money and hit the targeted price point, but not the ADK Keene Valley. The sheath is very nice in quality and holds the knife quite securely.

The handle feels a bit blocky but there are no crisp edges or anything to create hot spots. Micarta is one of my favorite handle materials due to its strength, light weight and color selection. It also has a nice grip-you-back quality. At 11.2 ounces the knife has a noticeable heft. The blade at its thickest is around .2 inch, which also contributes to the heavier weight but also plenty of thickness to withstand tough, unforgiving use. The flat grind thins it out nicely yet remains thick enough for strength. With its wide blade and generous belly, the knife slices really well—one of the traits to look for in a hunter.  

Kizlyar Supreme Caspian

Ten inches overall, the Kizlyar Supreme Caspian features a hollow-ground blade of D2 tool steel and a handle of hornbeam wood. The classic clip-point-bowie blade never gets old and has a defined tip along with a prominent swedge. The bowie shape does equally well in the tactical and outdoor genres, a great overall pattern for both a tool and weapon. The hollow grind thins out the edge and gives the blade an extremely good bite. D2 has respectable edge-holding ability and is widely used in the production knife industry as an upgrade to lower-grade steels. It is well known for toughness and high impact resistance, which makes it an ideal inexpensive steel for outdoor knives.

 The 5.4-inch clip-point blade of the Kizlyar Supreme Caspian provides plenty of sharpened real estate to process camp tasks. Overall length: 10 inches.
The 5.4-inch clip-point blade of the Kizlyar Supreme Caspian provides plenty of sharpened real estate to process camp tasks and makes it a top hunting knife. Overall length: 10 inches.

The ergonomic handle features multiple finger recesses, and the butt turns down to form a pinky catch to prevent your hand from sliding rearward. The tang helps form an integral single guard, resulting in a comfortable, smart, secure handle design. Largely flat, the scales are secured via two hex-head screws. The handle edges are contoured for comfort.

The leather sheath is a riveted, sewn fold-over design. As a nice visual touch, contrasting thread is used for the stitching. The belt loop is a dangler type, allowing the hunting knife to ride a bit lower when affixed to the belt, as well as promoting greater freedom of movement to accommodate you in a seated position. Not every fixed blade has this sheath design and it is a plus in my book. To top things off, the sheath is stamped with the Kizlyar Supreme logo and website address.

The knife performs very well. It has the power to slice through various media with ease. It’s somewhat large for a hunter but does multiple cutting jobs, including camp chores and some food processing. The hornbeam scales are not stabilized so extra care might be required, such as but not limited to drying off the handle immediately after you wash the knife.

Spyderco Bow River

The FB46G Bow River is one of Spyderco‘s latest fixed blades. The design by custom knifemaker Phil Wilson is based on his experience as an avid hunter and fisherman. Spyderco has produced several of Wilson’s fixed-blade designs but those were always higher-end knives in terms of materials and price—until now.

 The Spyderco Bow River is tailored for fine precision work such as field dressing and food prep in camp. It would make a great kitchen knife as well. (Spyderco image)
The Spyderco Bow River is tailored for fine precision work such as field dressing and food prep in camp. It would make a great kitchen knife as well. (Spyderco image)

The Bow River is designed for the budget-minded outdoor enthusiast who demands performance and superior design in an edged field companion. Starting with the blade, 8Cr13MoV stainless steel is used for a good balance of edge holding and ease of resharpening in the field. The 4.36-inch blade is big enough to tackle most hunting chores but small enough to easily manipulate, as well as carry comfortably in a belt sheath.  Wilson selected a trailing point blade design due to its generous sweeping belly that tackles slicing chores with ease. The full flat grind and distal taper enable the blade to sail through media easily.

The handle is rounded, contoured black-and-gray G-10. The alternating colored layers form a wood-grain-type pattern that is very eye-catching. The hunting knife rests in your hand comfortably and has no hot spots or crisp edges. The way the end of the handle is rounded off tucks into your palm snugly. Some with larger hands might find the handle a bit lacking but for me it’s just right. The surface finish is slick and devoid of texturing, though with the way the handle is shaped you can always get a secure hold no matter what. There is a large hole in the butt for a lanyard. The leather sheath is a sewn and riveted fold-over design with belt loop. It’s simple and executed very well, just like the Bow River. The knife fits inside the sheath well.

As for performance, it is definitely one efficient cutting tool. It is a well-designed fixed blade regardless of price. It is tailored for fine precision work such as field dressing and camp food prep. It would make a great kitchen knife as well.

Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter

The Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter salutes the design expertise of Daniel Winkler and military service of retired U.S. Army Sergeant Kyle Lamb. The 5-inch spear-point blade’s saber grind leaves enough material for strength—the full .195-inch thickness runs to the tip—but removes enough to thin the blade out for effective cutting. The choil and pronounced thumb rest help exert extra control when choking up on the blade.  The 80CrV2 carbon steel is extremely tough and sharpens easily.

 The Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter serves well in outdoor or tactical settings. The 80CrV2 carbon steel blade provides the horsepower to tackle a variety of cuts. Overall length: 9.5 inches.
The Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter serves well in outdoor or tactical settings. The 80CrV2 carbon steel blade provides the horsepower to tackle a variety of cuts. Overall length: 9.5 inches.

The black canvas Micarta® handle offers a great grip in most all weather conditions. It is rounded for comfort and has no hot spots. Two thong-tube pins secure the slabs, and there’s an extra-large oblong hole in the butt for a lanyard.

The hunting knife is a substantial tool. It has a good heft that conveys a solid feel and instills user confidence. It is equally at home as a tactical or outdoor knife because it has the features of both: great user blade shape, ergonomic handle and superior-grade materials. The blade is scary sharp out of the box. It dispatches large cutting jobs easily and quickly. Because the handle accommodates most hands very well, you can easily bear down and power through media. And when finesse is needed, you can choke up on the choil and thumb rest. The spear-point blade adapts to a wide range of tasks.

One word of note: some might find the gimping on the thumb rest and choil a bit harsh. It does bite into flesh just a bit but that can be a good thing, especially when your hands are wet, covered in animal blood or freezing. The gimping also works well if you wear gloves. They do a great job of biting into the glove material to keep the knife positioned in your grip.

The Kydex sheath is top-notch. Instead of a typical fold-over design it is a riveted one that incorporates a phenolic spacer material. The interior is lined with a felt-type material to reduce clatter. The exterior sports a laser cutout of Lamb’s Viking Tactics logo, a very nice touch. On the reverse side is a heavy-duty metal clip that affixes the hunting knife to belts up to 2 inches wide. The knife fits firmly inside the sheath with absolutely no play and no fear of falling out whatsoever.  


More Hunting And Bushcraft Knife Info:

How To Determine The Best Angle To Sharpen

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What determines the best sharpening angle? The answer is one that plagues knife neophytes and old hands alike.

“The best angle of sharpening is one of those very intriguing topics that many have explored but most have come up with different answers,” states Jake Broce, online marketing coordinator for A.G. Russell Knives. Agrees Kyle Crawford, brand manager for Work Sharp, “The answer is often different for everyone.”

He says the two keys are knife type/use and edge retention/maintenance. In fact, all of our story sources cited the intended use of the knife as a deciding factor. For tough chores such as chopping or batoning, a wider angle is best. “Generally, the wider the angle of edge, the more steel is behind it, which increases the edge’s toughness,” Broce observes. “For kitchen knives that see light-duty cutting food on cutting boards, or a task-specific hunting knife like a camping knife, a low angle is ideal,” counters Crawford. By “low” he means an edge angle between 15 and 20 degrees.

Edge angle also affects edge retention. “If you sharpen your heavy-use EDC knife to a low angle such as 15 degrees, it will be incredibly sharp,” Crawford says, “but the trade-off you are making is edge retention and durability.” Conversely, he adds, if you sharpen at a wider angle, such as 25 degrees, the edge will still be very sharp but you gain improved edge retention and, thus, eliminate the need for more frequent maintenance.

“The edge angle is seldom impacted by the blade grind,” says Work Sharp’s Kyle Crawford. “Be mindful that the sharpener you are using may not be able to replicate the blade grind. But for most of us, sharpness is the goal, not maintaining the exact factory grind type.” The DMT Duo-Sharp sharpener does the honors here.
“The edge angle is seldom impacted by the blade grind,” says Work Sharp’s Kyle Crawford. “Be mindful that the sharpener you are using may not be able to replicate the blade grind. But for most of us, sharpness is the goal, not maintaining the exact factory grind type.” The DMT Duo-Sharp sharpener does the honors here.

However, Kendra Tobler, marketing communications manager for Benchmade Knife Co., indicates grades of blade steel also factor in as well. “A harder steel with higher yield strength can be ground to a small included angle with less worry about rolling or deforming the edge,” she says. “Conventionally cast steels with large carbides are better suited to larger included angles.” This is done so for edge durability.

A prime example of Tobler’s point is Benchmade’s 15017-1 Hidden Canyon Hunter, a compact drop-point fixed blade in premium CPM S90V stainless steel well known for its extreme edge-holding ability. Benchmade uses its SelectEdge 14-degree included edge on the knife. It is ground thinner because S90V is a high-yield-strength steel that can retain its strength with a thinner edge without deforming or chipping. Blade thickness is a factor as well. “Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.” And it usually takes time to thin down a thick blade. As he warns, “If you choose to sharpen a low edge angle onto a thick blade, be prepared to be patient.”

Sharpening To Steel Grade

“Modern super steels have really changed the game for low angles and edge retention,” Crawford says. By this he means
blades of lower quality steel are prone to low edge retention as well as edge deformation and damage incurred from use. Higher quality steels have the high yield strength that enables them to be sharpened with lower edge angles, resist deformation and damage, and have higher edge retention overall. Crawford specifically cites CPM S45VN and CPM 154 as types of high-yield stainless steels. For lesser grades of steel, opt for a wider angle to save you from having to deal with damaged edges and/or frequent edge maintenance. Any steel designated as CPM (manufactured by Crucible Industries) or any other high end/high-performance steel can be taken down to lower edge angles for enhanced performance. Such steels include M4, 20CV, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, S60V, S90V, S110V, CRU-WEAR® and the CPM version of D2.

Knives come with a standard edge from the factory, around 22 degrees inclusive. The edge is sharp and durable, and a good middle-of-the-road angle that is a good balance between durability and cutting ease. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is set here to sharpen at 22 degrees.
Knives come with a standard edge from the factory, around 22 degrees inclusive. The edge is sharp and durable, and a good middle-of-the-road angle that is a good balance between durability and cutting ease. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is set here to sharpen at 22 degrees.

Lesser grades of steel that should not be taken down to acute angles mostly are found on entry-level to mid-grade factory knives, and some higher-end non-CPM steels found in high-end factory knives. Such stainless steels would include 440A, AUS-8, 8Cr13MoV, 1.4116 and VG-10. The high-end non-CPM stainless steels would be 154CM, ATS-34 and 440C. Also, any grade of carbon (non-stainless) steel should be treated like this as well. Examples would be 1095, 5160, D2, O1, A2 and so forth. If the steel’s specs do not state that it is a CPM steel, avoid applying acute edge angles and stick with wider ones to be safe.

Consequently, it is very important to educate yourself on the different grades of steel and their performance characteristics and edge retention qualities. Such information will further help you understand how the steel type will perform and how maintenance should be handled.

Sharpening To Blade Grind

The many different types of blade grinds are largely influenced by the knife’s intended use. As Tobler notes, “The bevel grind and the sharpening angle should complement each other.” For instance, hollow-ground blades have thinner edges. “This complements a small included angle,” she states. “A convex edge provides plenty of material behind the edge for strength and support and works well with a larger included angle.” Adds Broce, “The blade grind determines how much steel is behind the edge. More steel behind the edge improves edge stability, whereas less material behind the edge can improve the pass-through” of the material being cut.

Blade thickness is a factor as well. “Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.”
Blade thickness is a factor as well. “Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.”

Crawford takes a different tack. “The edge angle is seldom impacted by the blade grind,” he says. “Be mindful the sharpener you are using may not be able to replicate the blade grind. [Author’s note: Hollow grinds are converted to flat grinds when using a stone, or too convex grinds when sharpening on a flexible abrasive belt.] But for most of us, sharpness is the goal, not maintaining the exact factory grind type.”

Know The Use

“The required cutting task affects the angle,” Broce says. “Chopping requires good edge stability, so an increased edge angle is necessary.” He also explains that finer chores such as slicing and dicing work better with more acute angles due to the precision cutting. “Whittling introduces more variables than normal knife use,” he states. In other words, whittling exerts a lateral force on the blade and, therefore, the cutting edge. “Generally, you want a thicker blade stock with a thin edge [on a whittling knife],” he sums up. Agrees Tobler, “Smaller angles, like our SelectEdge, work best for finer, delicate slicing cuts.” The primary goal for Benchmade’s 14-degree SelectEdge is for field dressing, and the acute-angle edge slices through thicker hide and meat almost effortlessly.

Knives come with a standard edge from the factory, around 22 degrees inclusive. The edge is sharp and durable, and a good middle-of-the-road angle that is a good balance between durability and cutting ease. Some users are harder on a knife and require the larger edge angle. Nonetheless, with task-specific knives of high-yield-strength steels for hunting/field dressing, you may opt for a more acute edge angle, anywhere between 15 and 20 degrees.

Establishing The Sharpening Angle

How should you go about establishing the edge angle when you sharpen? A safe bet is to invest in a sharpener that sets and maintains the edge angle for you—all you have to do is set the sharpener to the desired angle.

Lesser grades of steel such as the 7Cr17MoV stainless of the Gerber Tri-Tip should not be taken down to an acute angle.
Lesser grades of steel such as the 7Cr17MoV stainless of the Gerber Tri-Tip should not be taken down to an acute angle.

“Angle guides are tried and true and solve one of the biggest sharpening challenges—establish the angle and be consistent,” Crawford says. Cautions Broce, “The first time you use [a guide kit] on your knife will usually take the longest, as your edge angle adjusts to the way you use the sharpener.” The angle guide kits subtract the science of maintaining a consistent angle, so all you need do is concentrate on getting the edge sharp. The kits have been a game-changer for consumers who struggle with freehand sharpening on a bench stone.

Another good tip, regardless of which sharpener you use, is the tried-and-true black marker trick. Using a permanent black marker with a wider chisel tip, color the edge bevel on both sides of the blade. The goal is to sharpen the blade,
removing the black marker ink from both sides. When you accomplish this, your edge angle is correct and you should have a sharp blade.

“The goal is to remove all of the ink in one swipe,” Crawford says. “If you are removing the marker at the cutting edge, your edge angle is too high and you are micro-beveling.” From there adjust your edge angle to a lower degree and take a few more passes to see how the ink is being removed. “It is a process of trial and error,” Crawford notes.

According to Jason Broce of A.G. Russell Knives, “The blade grind determines how much steel is behind the edge. More steel behind the edge improves edge stability, whereas less material behind the edge can improve the pass-through.”
According to Jason Broce of A.G. Russell Knives, “The blade grind determines how much steel is behind the edge. More steel behind the edge improves edge stability, whereas less material behind the edge can improve the pass-through.”

Tobler is another proponent of the marker method. “It helps for matching the edge angle already on the blade when resharpening,” she observes. You can use the method in conjunction with one of the guide kits even if the kit holds the angle constant for you. The method enables you to see how much more you must sharpen off in order for the edge bevel to be reestablished. In this regard, you’re using it to determine how much more you have to go as opposed to if you’re holding the angle correctly.

Another tip is to sharpen in a well-lighted area. Good visibility is very important and key to doing a thorough, well-executed sharpening job. And if you use the marker method a lot, abundant lighting helps you see clearer without eye strain.
Finally is sharpener selection. You can use any quality sharpener as long as it fits the steel type. The key here is to select a sharpener you feel very comfortable in using.

Also Read:

Best Barlow: 4 Of The Sharpest Factory Offerings

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Four of the latest factory barlows that are sharp in more ways than one.

What Are The Top Barlows:

Probably no pocketknife pattern has as rich of an American history as the barlow. It is perhaps one of the most well-known patterns even among non-knife people, because their fathers or grandfathers carried and used one.

What exactly is a barlow? It’s a simple pocketknife comprised of either one or two blades, a lengthened steel bolster, and a teardrop-shaped handle, usually of bone. There’s nothing fancy about the barlow. It was and still is a workhorse knife that gets the job done.

If you trace the barlow’s U.S. lineage, it goes back at least as far as John Rus sell, an American entrepreneur who established Green River Works in 1834 in Greenfield, Massachusetts. One of the knives his company was famous for is the barlow. Green River Works manufactured barlows in mass quantities, and even today vintage Green River Works barlows are highly sought after by collectors. The bolsters are distinctly marked with an “R” pierced horizontally by an arrow.

The Lionsteel CK01 and Böker Barlow Expedition have half stops (page 28), meaning the blades pause midway through the blade rotation cycle. Half stops allow safer closing of the blade and provide good tactile reference of where the blade is even if you can’t see it when opening or closing the knife.
The Lionsteel CK01 and Böker Barlow Expedition have half stops (page 28), meaning the blades pause
midway through the blade rotation cycle. Half stops allow safer closing of the blade and provide good tactile
reference of where the blade is even if you can’t see it when opening or closing the knife.

Aside from manufacturing excellence, the barlow was immortalized with appearances in literature (Mark Twain’s Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn and James Fenimore Cooper’s The Pioneers); in music (bluegrass legend Doc Watson); and even Abraham Lincoln was said to have recounted a story from his past that included a barlow. Few patterns have as rich a history. Even in today’s knife market where aerospace-grade materials and advanced blade steels rule the day, slip joints remain popular, including the bar low. They simply are great working tools stripped down to the bare essentials.

BÖker Dalichow

“Traditional patterns like the camp knife or barlow have been a part of our product line from the very beginning onward, and they always will be,” says Carsten Felix-Dalichow, CEO of BÖker Germany. “In the last couple years, those patterns enjoyed a renaissance in the international knife markets.” Dalichow adds that both modern interpretations and classic versions sell well—including the BÖker Barlow Expedition (manufacturer’s suggested retail price [MSRP]: $199.95).

Böker’s Barlow Expedition is a smaller barlow that rides in the pocket easily and is ready for general tasks like cutting a length of twine.
Böker’s Barlow Expedition is a smaller barlow that rides in the pocket easily and is ready for general tasks like cutting a length of twine.

The 2.5-inch clip point blade is 440C stainless, which at one time was aboutthe best knife steel money could buy. It remains a great blade material even by today’s standards. It exhibits superb edge retention and enhanced corrosion resistance, and is fairly easy to resharpen. The blade opens via a long-pull nail nick. The action is nice and stiff. The extended-length bolster is brass, and the scales are green canvas Micarta®, the left one inlaid with the BÖker Tree logo shield. Brass liners complete the overall color combination, which looks marvelous. The blade is bead blasted, not satin finished, which rounds out the subdued appearance.

Size-wise, the Expedition is pretty much average for barlows. It’s a great balance of utility and pocket-friendliness. The thin profile carries well and is not heavy at all. The Micarta is lightweight, weather/impact resistant and an excellent choice for any working folder. I did note during heavy cutting when a tighter grip is required that the thin handle left me wanting a handle thicker and perhaps longer as well. However, for large or extensive-use cutting tasks, select a knife with a more appropriate handle size.

“The response of the international knife markets on this new product line of modern traditionals is tremendous,” Dalichow says, and BÖker will continue to develop new iterations of classic favorites using both up-to-date materials and modern knifemaking techniques. “The trend will be long term. We at BÖker are happy to be a part of it.”

Kershaw Culpepper

The Kershaw Culpepper ushers the barlow into the modern-day knife market in contemporary materials and economy pricing. “Opening mechanisms, blade steels, handle designs—a lot has changed since the peak in popularity of barlows,” says Dominic Aiello, marketing manager at KAI-USA, manufacturer of Kershaw and Zero Tolerance knives. “I don’t believe that barlow-style knives will see the popularity they once had. However, they are still enjoyed by many users, and we want to provide them with a quality, affordable option.”

The Kershaw Culpepper has a 3.25-inch clip-point blade suitable for larger and tougher cutting tasks. The 7Cr17MoV stainless steel provides good edge holding abilities. The long, large handle offers a good grip.
The Kershaw Culpepper has a 3.25-inch clip-point blade suitable for larger and tougher cutting tasks. The 7Cr17MoV stainless steel provides good edge holding abilities. The long, large handle offers a good grip.

The 3.25-inch clip point blade is 7Cr17MoV stainless steel for increased strength, toughness, and wear resistance. The Culpepper is a larger modern barlow suited to heavier cutting tasks. The blade spine boasts gimping for a non-slip rest and extra control when cutting, a feature often found on tactical folders. The satin-finished blade has long-pull nail nicks milled into each side. This offers ease of opening with either hand, but also the convenience of using a pinch grip to pull the blade open as opposed to digging your fingernail into the nail nick and pulling up as you would with a traditional slip joint.

The handle is black G-10, a lightweight, strong synthetic associated with tactical and outdoor knives. It’s a stable material and resistant to fluids, impact, and weathering. The finish is polished, giving an ultra-smooth look and feel. The black and silver appearance is timeless and never gets old. In my opinion, the 4.15-inch closed length pushes the limit of how big a pocketknife should be to carry comfortably in the bottom of a pocket. When you carry it, you’ll know it’s there. The trade-off is the extra blade length to tackle tough, tradesman-like cutting jobs. My only complaint lies with the back spring. Ideally, I would like to have a stiff spring action and a half stop (page 28). The half stop provides great tactile reference as to where the blade is during opening and closing. If not a half stop, then a stiff er spring would suffice.

The Culpepper’s spring tension needs to be increased. I found that if the blade hangs up on what you’re cutting, and you lift up a bit on the handle trying to free it, sometimes the blade will close slightly. Normally you apply downward pressure, so during most use this isn’t an issue. Otherwise, it seems to make a great work knife for tasks unsuitable for a higher-end slip joint. And, in case you lose the Culpepper, the price is such that you can procure another one easily due to the low MSRP ($39.99). One of three traditional slip joints Kershaw offers, the new barlow is made in China.

Bear and Son’s 2281R Rosewood

Bear and Son’s 2281R Rosewood Barlow is the only two-blade of the test bunch, sporting a small pen pattern (21∕16 inch es) in addition to the larger clip point (2.75 inches). The pen gives the option of a shorter blade for smaller cutting tasks or to get into tighter areas. It is also good for scraping, thus saving the main blade’s edge for traditional cutting jobs. Ground from 440A stainless steel, both feature matching long-pull nail nicks for ease of opening. Nice satin finishes round out the overall look and hide scratches.

Trimming string is one of the general utility tasks performed by working knives like the Bear & Son 2281R Rosewood Barlow.
Trimming string is one of the general utility tasks performed by working knives like the Bear & Son 2281R Rosewood Barlow.

The handle features nickel silver bolsters paired with rosewood scales, adding a touch of class. Some prefer the look and feel of a wood handle as opposed to bone or a synthetic. Moreover, rosewood has a reddish-brown hue some find quite attractive, kind of like finely crafted upscale furniture. Granted, the two-blade barlow has a wider handle but the trade-off is the extra width makes the knife easier to grip and bear down on to apply pressure to the cut. The knife’s pocket presence is more noticeable due to the added weight and width, though no more noticeable than some other popular multi-blade slip joints.

The 2281R Barlow balances value with function in a good ol’ USA-made pocketknife. It adapts well to a variety of tasks, from wire stripping to cutting cardboard. It might not be as fancy in appearance as some of the others in this article, but it works well. The blades are easy to resharpen as well. MSRP: $53.75.

Lionsteel CK01

Offering four different blade shapes, the Lionsteel CK01 series is about as high end as you can get for a production barlow. Built from Bohler M390 super steel, titanium liners, and bolsters, and a variety of higher-end natural and synthetic handle materials, the CK01 barlows are show stoppers.

The M390 blade of the Lionsteel CK01 Don model was super sharp right out of the box. It provided plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.
The M390 blade of the Lionsteel CK01 Don model was super sharp right out of the box. It provided plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.

The Don model has a 2⅞ -inch sheeps-foot blade. The 3.75-inch closed length makes the knife large enough to tackle tough cuts while small enough to be carried comfortably in a pocket. The light brown Micarta® scales are handsome.

The bead-blasted titanium bolsters sport a subdued appearance. Torx-screw construction and a half stop augment the mix—and so do the crowned liners and titanium handle spacer. The knife’s overall slightly rounded/not flat appearance lends an interesting visual appeal. I really dig the crowning—any manufacturer who does this on its knives definitely pays special attention to detail.

The sheepsfoot blade is less common in barlows but is a highly effective pattern for a variety of cutting and slicing chores. The straight-line edge severs cardboard, tape, and plastic sheeting quickly. It also strips electrical wire easily. The pattern is rather easy to resharpen due to the straight-line edge—that is, there is no blade belly with which to hassle. Since the sheepsfoot lacks a defined blade point, there is enough tip left for effective scoring. The Don’s sheepsfoot incorporates a couple of visual features that stand out. First is the long pull on each side of the blade for easy ambidextrous opening. A swedge on the blade spine is a refreshing look. The knife slices like a dream and the M390 steel really holds an edge well. MSRP: $122, plus shipping, and is available exclusively through CollectorKnives (collectorknives.net).

This about as high end as you can get for a production slip joint, integrating titanium, a high-end super steel, and a lightweight, high-tech handle material. For an additional $9.95, you can order the optional leather slip sheath available in multiple color options

Also Read:

5 Angle-Guide Knife Sharpeners That Make The Cut

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The proper angle is key to a sharp blade. Here are the angle-guide sharpeners that ensure you’ll always get it right.

A big part of sharpening, aside from proper sharpener selection, is how to select and maintain the proper angle of the blade to the sharpener. In fact, the key to successfully sharpening any blade regardless of the grade of steel is being able to maintain that angle. Ever try sharpening freehand on a bench stone with little experience doing so? The reason folks get frustrated with learning to sharpen is they don’t keep the angles consistent. It’s all about the angles. You must take into account what use your knife will see and sometimes that determines the specific angle to use.

You probably know of the angle guide kits with a metal clamp that affixes to the blade and has uprights on either end with a series of holes that correspond to various degrees of angles. Such kits all help instill confidence and the ability to subtract guesswork at maintaining the desired angle.

SHARPENER TYPES
There are plenty of sharpeners capable of reproducing keen edges. Avoid the pull-through types that require you to drag the blade through. Those are set at one angle and use carbide to get the job done. These will ruin a blade in time, and I don’t recommend them. You need a sharpening kit that’ll help establish and hold a consistent angle. All you need to be concerned with is making the motions to get the edge sharp.

The Lansky Deluxe Diamond Knife Sharpening System is one of the oldest angle guide kits on the market. Four various grits of diamond-coated hones are featured, including extra-coarse for fast work of reviving dull blades. The sturdy aluminum clamp holds the knife securely.

Lansky’s four-stone Deluxe Diamond System Precision Knife Sharpening Kit is the best the company offers in angle guide clamp units. It includes an extra coarse hone great for reprofiling edge angles. It also has coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated hones for fine-tuning the edge once it’s been established. The aluminum clamp is sturdy and offers four edge angles: 17, 20, 25, and 30 degrees. The kit stores in a sturdy plastic storage case. MSRP: $114.99.

GATCO offers the Ultimate Diamond Hone Sharpening System, which is similar to the Lansky. Featuring coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated abrasives, the kit includes Ultimate Finishing and triangular-shaped serration hones, too. It works on plain, serrated, and partially serrated edges. The hones are wider and longer for more effective use and have molded-in integral handguards for safety. There’s also a plastic storage case. MSRP: $119.99. 

 

To sharpen the CPM S90V blades with the SelectEdge 14 degree angle of its Hidden Canyon Hunter and Saddle Mountain Skinner, Benchmade offers the model 50082 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool. Designed in conjunction with and manufactured by Work Sharp, this compact sharpener incorporates a fine grit ceramic rod and a leather strap on the backside. Built-in guides set the blade at the correct 14-degree angle. The idea with this one is to apply frequent edge touchups. A premium steel, S90V is notoriously difficult to resharpen, a difficulty negated via frequent edge maintenance sessions with the 50082. MSRP: $25.

DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use  any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an  angle guide kit.
DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use
any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an
angle guide kit.

For knives without the SelectEdge technology, Benchmade offers the Edge Maintenance Tool, also designed with and manufactured by Work Sharp. It uses a fine-grit ceramic rod and a leather strop but in a more compact folding format with a pocket clip for easy carry. As with the 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool, built-in guides assist in achieving the optimal angle for edge restoration. The Edge Maintenance Tool works well with pocketknives, fixed blades, and tactical folders—pretty much any knife. MSRP: $50.

DOWNSIZED 2X72
For the more advanced sharpeners among you, Work Sharp offers the Ken Onion Elite Sharpening System, a variable speed motorized unit employing long-lasting flexible abrasive belts made by Norton Abrasives. It’s pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more  expensive 2x72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.
The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

Designed by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ken Onion, the Elite makes quick work of bringing completely dull and/or damaged knife edges back to life and is fully adjustable for applying edges between 10 and 35 degrees. The abrasive belts measure 1 by 18 inches and make quick work of any sharpening task. Once you become comfortable with how the sharpener operates, you can consistently grind an even edge on your blades. (Author’s note: Motorized sharpening is best left to those with sharpening experience.) MSRP: $199.95.

Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) offers the Double Sided Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System centered around the company’s Double Sided Diafold folding diamond files. The Magna-Guide System features the Aligner Blade Guide clamp with integrated, adjustable angle guides. A metal guide rod affixes securely to the Double Sided Diafold file via a large rare earth magnet. Attached to an FWCX Extra Coarse/Coarse Double Sided Diafold, the manual system can easily reprofile an edge to any one of seven pre-set angles.

DMT’s Double Sided Diafold diamond files are built well, highly effective, and among the best compact sharpeners on the market. One of the best things about the Magna-Guide is you can use the Double Sided Diafold files as stand-alone sharpeners without the guide rod and angle guide clamp. Consequently, you get a guided sharpening system and a standalone sharpener for the price of one. The Magna-Guide Kit’s MSRP: $27.49 (works with any Double Sided Diafold file).

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4 Must-Have Automatic Knives (2022)

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When it comes to blades that are practical, stylish and bring the THWACK!, you can’t go wrong with these four automatic knives.

What Are The Outstanding Autos:

There’s something irresistible about pressing the button of folding automatic knife and having the blade spring out with a resounding “THWACK!” as it locks open.

Types Of Automatic Knives

Automatic knives or autos come in two basic styles: the traditional side—or radial—openers and out the fronts (OTFs). There’s a great selection of both in today’s factory market. The majority center around the tactical trend in which the spring-powered opening action enjoys viability in high-stress situations where you need instantaneous blade deployment with little effort in action and thinking.

Side-Opening Auto Knives

Pro-Tech TR-3 1X Operator

When it comes to tactical automatic knives, Pro-Tech is a leader in the field. Its designs are highly refined and manufactured with the utmost attention to detail. The Tactical Response folder series is a company best-seller, the TR-3 being one of the most sought-after designs. Eight inches open, it is a great working knife featuring an ergonomic handle of T6-6061 aluminum paired with a drop-point blade of 154CM stainless steel. While the company manufactures different variations of the TR-3, the most eye-catching is the TR-3 X1 Operator Series model.

Pro-tech TR-3

Something you will notice first is the knife is sterile—in other words, there are no markings denoting brand, blade steel or country of origin. It is all black, including the clip and hardware. Topping it off, the lock button is inlaid with a tiny vial of tritium, allowing the button to “light up” in total darkness. The handle has ProTech’s fish-scale machining pattern to aid in grip retention and cool looks. The clip is mounted toward the handle butt to carry the closed folder blade tip up and as low in a pocket as possible.

All black and stealthy, the Pro Tech TR-3 X1 Operator Series folder gets the job done with little fuss and effort.
All black and stealthy, the Pro Tech TR-3 X1 Operator Series folder gets the job done with little fuss and effort.

The TR-3 is how you properly execute an all-black-finished knife. The modified drop-point blade tackles a variety of tasks with ease. American-made 154CM is an industry standard for heavy-use knives, holds a decent edge, and is not as difficult to resharpen as CPM high-performance steels. The handle shape is very appealing with its two large finger recesses to help index your grip, and the slightly tapered profile rests in your hand comfortably with no hot spots. Blade action is very snappy. Pro-Tech officials like strong springs in their automatic knives, so have a firm hold on the handle before you deploy the blade. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): $320. The knife is made in Pro Tech’s Placentia, California, factory.

Boker Plus Karakurt

Danish knifemaker Jesper Voxnaes is one of the hottest knife designers going, and Boker Plus has tapped him for several designs, the Karakurt auto being one of them. Starting with a modified clip-point blade a hair over 3 inches, the material of choice is 154CM stainless steel. The flat grind allows the edge to be thin and exert a great bite, much like the knife’s namesake. (Karakurt is the Eurasian equivalent of the black widow spider.) The handle is T6-6061 aluminum. A large finger recess permits easy indexing of your grip, and the handle curves accommodate the rest of your fingers nicely for a nonslip purchase. A deep-carry pocket clip totes the closed Karakurt blade tip up and low in the pocket for maximum concealment.

Boker Switchblade

Action-wise, the knife is very quick. Press the firing button and the blade opens instantaneously. The overall design isn’t really tactical, though it does share some tactical traits. The Karakurt is designed more for everyday carry, and is excellent at opening mail, packages, breaking down cardboard boxes, stripping electrical wire, cutting corrugated plastic, etc. It carries very well, the slim profile allowing it to blend right into the pocket and have a lightweight footprint. It carries just as easily in casual dress as formal. The blade is available in a stonewash finish or black PVD coat. With an MSRP of $199.99, the Karakurt is priced very competitively to other knives of its class. It is made in the USA by Hogue Knives.

The flat grind of the Boker Plus Karakurt blade helps give it a nice bite. The Karakurt is made in the USA for Boker by Hogue Knives.
The flat grind of the Boker Plus Karakurt blade helps give it a nice bite. The Karakurt is made in the USA for Boker by Hogue Knives.

OTF Auto Knives

OTFs fall under one of two categories. One is single-action, where the blade deploys automatically and you must pull out the charging bar to retract it. A double-action OTF has automatic deployment and retraction of the blade, all by respectively pushing and pulling a slide button on the handle spine. The latter is the most popular, as most every OTF manufacturer makes one.

Heretic Knives Hydra

The Heretic Knives Hydra is a single-action OTF. It offers a choice of 3.6-inch drop-point or tanto pattern blades in CPM S35VN stainless steel. Handles are aluminum alloy machined with traction notches in strategic locations. The pocket clip is a distinctive “H”-shaped fold-over deep carry design and uses four screws as opposed to the standard two. It is anchored to the handle ultra-securely.

Heritic Hydra

The firing button incorporates an unusual safety. It’s a teardrop-shaped cover that pivots downward to allow button access. When released, it covers the firing button to prevent accidental blade deployment. Very ingenious! The bad thing about single-action OTFs is that retracting it requires using both hands: one to hold the handle and press the firing button to unlock the blade, the other to pull back on the charging bar until the blade is fully retracted and locked closed. (Pull a paracord lanyard tied to the charging bar or grab the end of the bar and pull.) The Hydra is well made, and the ergonomic handle is comfortable and offers multiple-grip positioning.

Most OTFs have a boxy profile and maybe two grip positions at most, depending on the size. Admittedly, I am not a fan of the humongous clip but it does a great job at holding the knife to the pocket, and is a deep carry design that positions the Hydra low in the pocket.

The Hydra also has a safety (inset) by the fi ring button to guard against inadvertent opening of the blade.
The Hydra also has a safety (inset) by the fi ring button to guard against inadvertent opening of the blade.

When you fire the blade, it hits hard! Out of the box the blade was plenty sharp and the hollow-ground tanto offered great slicing ability. Heretic provides the knife in multiple handle colors and two blade finishes—we received the black-coated blade with a nice handle anodized blue (MSRP: $435).

Single-action OTFs are probably better suited for occasional use since the two-handed blade retraction can get cumbersome, especially if you have the use of only one hand at a time. Double-action OTF’s are what you need for more frequent use. However, if you collect OTF automatic knives, you need a single action in your collection. In this case, the Hydra is a perfect choice to fill the slot.

Microtech Scarab II

Easily the largest OTF in the Microtech line, the double-action Scarab II is a nice handful. The base steel of choice for the 3.9-inch drop-point blade is M390 stainless, though Microtech also uses other high-end steels depending on what’s on hand in quantity. The 5.25-inch handle is T6-6061 aluminum for lightweight and strength. Inlays of textured rubber tape are integrated to enhance grip in most all conditions.

Microtech OTF Automatic Knife

A hefty push moves the textured actuation button forward to deploy the blade and a backward pull retracts it. The robust push is also a safety feature to avoid inadvertent blade actuation. The action is very quick given the blade’s size and
thickness.

Microtech added three fullers—two in the standard style on the blade’s side, as well as one on the blade spine. They look pretty cool but don’t add to performance. A few mini fullers are close to the blade’s base, where they are partially visible when the blade is deployed.

Given the knife’s size, it works quite well, and blade deployment is very easy even if you’re wearing work gloves. If you wear gloves frequently, this is the OTF for you. The handle is blocky and therefore fits the hand well with or without
gloves.

The Microtech Scarab II is the latest auto Microtech manufactures and the largest of the test group. This formidable-sized OTF is ready to tackle the toughest cutting jobs you may have and does so with aplomb.
The Microtech Scarab II is the latest auto Microtech manufactures and the largest of the test group. This formidable-sized OTF is ready to tackle the toughest cutting jobs you may have and does so with aplomb.

The Scarab II is adept at handling bigger cutting tasks, and has excellent slicing capabilities given the blade’s length. It could easily be used as a food prep knife, as it does great in the kitchen. The flat ground blade sails through a variety of media and is easy to resharpen. M390 holds an excellent edge and, unlike S30V, is relatively simple to resharpen. Carry is a snap thanks to the heavy-duty steel pocket clip. It’s secured to the handle butt with a special conical glass breaker screw that has an inlaid steel ball bearing for transmitting impact energy to the glass.

If you’re looking for an EDC-able Microtech OTF, the Scarab II may not be your choice due to its larger size. You’ll need to look at the company’s smaller Ultratech series instead. However, for tactical or extended-period hard use, the Scarab II fits the bill perfectly. The MSRP is $551, making it one of the most expensive production OTFs—but it’s worth it!


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Knife Sharpening: What’s the Best Angle?

The best sharpening angle depends on the use of the knife, the thickness of the blade, the type of blade steel, the sharpening materials used and more.

What is the Best Sharpening Angle?

What determines the best sharpening angle? The answer is one that plagues knife neophytes and old hands alike.

“The best angle of sharpening is one of those very intriguing topics that many have explored but most have come up with different answers,” states Jake Broce, online marketing coordinator for A.G. Russell Knives.

Agrees Kyle Crawford, brand manager for Work Sharp, “The answer is often different for everyone.”

He says the two keys are knife type/use and edge retention/maintenance. In fact, all of our story sources cited the intended use of the knife as a deciding factor. For tough chores such as chopping or batonning, a wider angle is best.

“Generally, the wider the angle of edge, the more steel is behind it, which increases the edge’s toughness,” Broce observes.

“For kitchen knives that see light duty cutting food on cutting boards, or a task-specific hunting knife like a camping knife, a low angle is ideal,” counters Crawford.

By “low” he means an edge angle between 15 and 20 degrees.

Find angle for sharpening knives
Knives come with a standard edge from the factory, around 22 degrees inclusive. The edge is sharp and durable, and a good middle-of-the-road angle that is a good balance between durability and cutting ease. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is set here to sharpen at 22 degrees. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Edge angle also affects edge retention.

“If you sharpen your heavy-use EDC knife to a low angle such as 15 degrees, it will be incredibly sharp,” Crawford says, “but the trade-off you are making is edge retention and durability.”

Conversely, he adds, if you sharpen at a wider angle, such as 25 degrees, the edge will still be very sharp but you gain improved edge retention and, thus, eliminate the need for more frequent maintenance.

However, Kendra Tobler, marketing communications manager for Benchmade Knife Co., indicates grades of blade steel also factor in as well.

“A harder steel with higher yield strength can be ground to a small included angle with less worry about rolling or deforming the edge,” she says. “Conventionally cast steels with large carbides are better suited to larger included angles.”

Knife sharpening tips
Lesser grades of steel such as the 7Cr17MoV stainless of the Gerber Tri-Tip should not be taken down to an acute angle. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

This is done so for edge durability. A prime example of Tobler’s point is Benchmade’s 15017-1 Hidden Canyon Hunter, a compact drop-point fixed blade in premium CPM S90V stainless steel well known for its extreme edge-holding ability.

Benchmade uses its SelectEdge 14-degree included edge on the knife. It is ground thinner because S90V is a high-yield-strength steel that can retain its strength with a thinner edge without deforming or chipping.

Blade Steel Sharpening Tips
With task-specific knives of high-yield-strength steels for hunting/field dressing, you may opt for a more acute edge angle, anywhere between 15 and 20 degrees. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Blade thickness is a factor as well.

“Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.”

And it usually takes time to thin down a thick blade.

As he warns, “If you choose to sharpen a low edge angle onto a thick blade, be prepared to be patient.”

How to sharpen knives
Blade thickness is a factor as well. “Thin blades are much easier to sharpen to low edge angles than thick knives,” Crawford states. “The thicker the blade, the more material you will have to remove to create a low edge angle.” (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Establishing Angles

How should you go about establishing the edge angle when you sharpen? A safe bet is to invest in a sharpener that sets and maintains the edge angle for you—all you have to do is set the sharpener to the desired angle.

“Angle guides are tried and true and solve one of the biggest sharpening challenges—establish the angle and be consistent,” Crawford says.

Cautions Broce, “The first time you use [a guide kit] on your knife will usually take the longest, as your edge angle adjusts to the way you use the sharpener.”

The angle guide kits subtract the science of maintaining a consistent angle, so all you need do is concentrate on getting the edge sharp. The kits have been a game changer for consumers who struggle with freehand sharpening on a bench stone.

Knife Sharpening Tips
A good tip is the black marker trick. Using a permanent black marker with a wider chisel tip, color the edge bevel on both sides of the blade. The goal is to sharpen the blade—here on the Gerber Tri-Tip—removing the black marker ink from both sides. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Another good tip, regardless of which sharpener you use, is the tried-and-true black marker trick. Using a permanent black marker with a wider chisel tip, color the edge bevel on both sides of the blade. The goal is to sharpen the blade, removing the black marker ink from both sides. When you accomplish this, your edge angle is correct and you should have a sharp blade.

“The goal is to remove all of the ink in one swipe,” Crawford says. “If you are removing the marker at the cutting edge, your edge angle is too high and you are micro-beveling.”

From there adjust your edge angle to a lower degree and take a few more passes to see how the ink is being removed.

“It is a process of trial and error,” Crawford notes.

Tobler is another proponent of the marker method. “It helps for matching the edge angle already on the blade when resharpening,” she observes.

Grind Knife Sharpening Tips
According to Jason Broce of A.G. Russell Knives, “The blade grind determines how much steel is behind the edge. More steel behind the edge improves edge stability, whereas less material behind the edge can improve the pass-through.” (Marty Stanfield Photography)

You can use the method in conjunction with one of the guide kits even if the kit holds the angle constant for you. The method enables you to see how much more you must sharpen off in order for the edge bevel to be reestablished.

In this regard, you’re using it to determine how much more you have to go as opposed to if you’re holding the angle correctly.

Another tip is sharpen in a well-lighted area. Good visibility is very important and key to doing a thorough, well-executed sharpening job. And if you use the marker method a lot, abundant lighting helps you see clearer without eye strain.

Finally is sharpener selection. You can use any quality sharpener as long as it fits the steel type. The key here is to select a sharpener you feel very comfortable in using.

Blade sharpening tips
Another tip is sharpen in a well-lighted area. Good visibility is very important and key to doing a thorough, well-executed sharpening job. And if you use the marker method a lot, abundant lighting helps you see clearer without eye strain. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

Knife Sharpening Safety

Sharpening can be dangerous, so be sure you are in the right frame of mind when you do it—not mentally or physically tired, nor pre-occupied. Focus on sharpening with little to no distractions.

Not only is your own personal safety at stake, but the more focused you are, the better job you can do. This is especially true if you’re learning a new sharpening technique, such as re-establishing edge angles.

Most of all, be safe, have fun and take satisfaction in the knowledge that, once you master establishing edge angles, you have become self-sufficient at sharpening.

Knife Sharpening Safety Tips
Focus on sharpening with little to no distractions. Not only is your own personal safety at stake, but the more focused you are, the better job you can do. (Marty Stanfield Photography)

4 AWESOME LINERLOCK EDC KNIVES

When it comes to EDC folder locks, the linerlock is hard to beat

Few folding knife locks perform as well for everyday carry (EDC) as the linerlock. Constructed properly, the linerlock is easy to open and, especially on a knife that includes a blade opener and a pocket clip, is a snap to carry, deploy, open and close, all with one hand—an EDC hallmark.

CRKT Knives CEO

Designed by award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers, the CEO Bamboo linerlock folder is one of the more slender knives from CRKT. It’s an unobtrusive folder that won’t weigh you down and is ideal for dress suit carry. In fact, it can carry attached to a shirt pocket a la a ballpoint pen. It blends well with the office crowd, as it is a low profile design that will not raise eyebrows.

Just over 3 inches long, the blade is 8Cr13MoV stainless steel for a good balance of edge holding and resharpening ease. The trailing-point blade opens quickly and efficiently via a thumb stud. The pivot’s Ikoma Korth Bearing System (IKBS) enhances smooth blade action. A saber-style primary grind combined with a full-length swedge grind gives the blade a bit of attitude.

Award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers designed the CEO Bamboo from CRKT to be the quintessential office carry folder. It is tailored for such daily uses as trimming stray threads from clothing.

The handle consists of two stainless steel liners and glass-reinforced nylon scales. The scales are molded in a color and shape/texture to mimic bamboo. The handle’s squared off butt resembles the classic doctor’s knife/pillbuster pocketknife pattern. A deep carry, fold-over clip allows the knife to ride low in a pants or shirt pocket, or inside a sport coat breast pocket.

The linerlock engages firmly and secures the blade open with no play. Simply hit the thumb stud and the blade pops open fast to the locked position thanks to the IKBS. Firmly push the edge of the exposed portion of the lock spring, and the blade unlocks and rotates closed as easily as it opens. I like how simple it is to open and close the blade, especially for such a slender folder. Many such folders do not manipulate easily due to their size.

Opening mail is one of the many tasks the slender blade of the CRKT CEO Bamboo does well.

And for a slender folder, the CEO has plenty of bite. The slim blade slits open envelopes and packages effortlessly. I like how it blends in and does its thing with no unnecessary fanfare. The only negative about the CEO is also a positive—the deep carry clip. The fold-over design creates a hot spot when you grip the handle but carries the closed folder deep in the pocket, which is nice. Given that the knife isn’t made for prolonged, heavy duty use, I find the clip to be a good thing. Made in China, the CEO has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $54.99. It is a great value.

EXCELLENT SLICER: Citadel Kampot

The Citadel Kampot linerlock folder sports a 3-inch drop point blade of Bohler N690 stainless steel. N690 is a mid-grade stainless with great edge holding properties but also is rather easy to resharpen. It is a fine alternative to today’s “super steels.” The ergonomic handle has double stainless steel liners and stabilized blue beech scales. Red liners add a subtle pop of color. The scales are nicely rounded and contoured so the folder rests in your grip comfortably with no hot spots. An integrated guard prevents your hand from sliding onto the blade edge and, together with a bird’s beak butt, keeps your hand on the handle.

The linerlock secures tightly with zero blade play. Five large notches in the end of the liner aid thumb traction in unlocking the blade. The Kampot has a nail nick opener instead of a thumb stud, hole, disc or flipper, so it is the only knife of the test bunch that requires two hands to open, though it does close with one hand like the others. Neither does it have a clip.

The Citadel Kampot (left) easily rivals most any working folder with its drop point blade. The high polish of the steel makes it easy to clean as well.

At 4.5 inches closed the Kampot is rather large, which might make it a bit uncomfortable for pocket carry. A braided leather lanyard attached to the handle permits you to fish the folder easily from a pocket. The knife is good looking, with the blade, liners and handle screws exhibiting a high polish.

The flat-ground blade is an excellent slicer. However, out of the box it was not as sharp as I prefer. I gave it a few light strokes on a ceramic rod followed by stropping and that enhanced its bite. The grip is very comfortable and a great alternative to folders with flat handle profiles. It is really nice looking. The beech scales differ slightly in color. The test model has streaks of tan and blue-green as well. It reminds me of how brass and copper patina when exposed to the elements over time and get a blueish green hue. The Kampot is a great alternative if you’re not into the all black and edgy tactical folder look. The blade pivot is not exposed, so the pivot tension is not adjustable. This cleans up the look, though I know some knife guys like to adjust the pivot tension to their own liking.

Citadel’s Kampot folder is a bit rough around the edges but remains a very efficient cutting tool. The flat-ground blade slices through a variety of materials with gusto.

A negative is the knife’s size, though for some that is a good thing. The lack of a clip is compounded by the lack of a belt sheath. The Kampot needs one. For me, the knife is too big to carry in the pocket, so belt carry would be the best option. On the other hand, ready-made belt sheaths are rather easy to find (a good source is Smoky Mountain Knife Works at smkw.com/knife-accessories/sheaths). Made in Cambodia, the Kampot has an MSRP of $205. 

CHECKS ’EM ALL: Puma SGB

The Mach 1, along with the Sonic, are linerlock flipper folders Puma SGB introduced in 2020. They are identical, sharing the same handle materials/design and blade material. The only difference is the Sonic features a clip point blade and the Mach 1 has a modified drop point. With its hollow ground main bevel and generous, sweeping belly, the 3.6-inch blade in the latter pattern accomplishes a wide variety of cutting tasks. It is a large folder ideal for the ample knife jobs you have, indoors or out.

The German 1.4116 stainless steel holds an edge well and is fairly easy to resharpen. It is a steel found mainly in kitchen knives and is highly stain resistant. It isn’t commonly used in the knife industry, and expect performance to be equivalent to 440A or even 420HC stainless. Its lower overall production costs are passed on to you in the form of a great value.

A flipper tab offers quick and effortless one-hand deployment. The swift, smooth action is aided by a pair of ceramic caged ball bearings in the pivot. The handle features nice carbon fiber scales, giving the Mach 1 a modern, futuristic appearance—it is eye catching the way the light reflects off the strands in the weave pattern. The chamfered edges of the carbon fiber are textured to aid grip retention. A deep carry, fold-over pocket clip totes the closed folder blade tip down in the pocket, deep enough to conceal the knife yet hold it within easy reach.

The Puma SGB Mach 1 matches 1.4116 stainless steel with a sturdy handle sporting carbon fiber scales and stainless steel liners. The blade rides on ceramic bearings for smooth opening and closing.

The Mach 1 checks all the boxes: great fit and finish, silky smooth blade action, and super sharp and ready to work right out of the box. The drop point blade adapts to most any task. The edge has a nice bite and easily sinks into the material being cut. As wide as the handle is, you can get a really good grip that instills confidence. The open-frame handle promotes ease of cleaning. Country of  origin: China. MSRP: $149.99. For the money, it’s a solid value in features and performance.

The hollow grind of the Puma SGB Mach 1’s drop point blade (middle left) helps provide plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.

NEW LEVEL of CHIC: F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives

Taking EDC folders to a new level of chic, the F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives features bold styling with a sheepsfoot blade and an ergonomic handle. The 3.4-inch blade is Bohler N690 stainless steel. The flat grind is tailored for both stout utility applications and lateral strength. A flipper is integrated for fast opening and is assisted by ceramic bearings, which promote super-smooth action and rapid deployment.

A large finger recess at the pivot allows you to index the G-10 grip, while the “bird’s beak” butt captures your hand. The G-10 has a light 3-D machining pattern that aids purchase. Traction notches at the thumb rest on the spine supply grip to bear down for power cuts. Dual nested stainless steel liners provide a rigid backbone and the nesting feature reduces overall handle thickness. Two large standoffs add style. A smaller standoff at the rear acts as a tie-off point for a lanyard (not included).

Even the pocket clip is nicely done. It’s sculpted, styled titanium that carries the closed folder blade tip up and is secured via one large screw. The clip’s shape mimics the handle’s curvature, and the overlay adds to aesthetics. It’s great to see a company put extra effort and thought into the clip, which looks better than standard stamped clips. It definitely holds the knife securely in the pocket.

The F24-33 Nutcracker has a black stonewashed blade, black liners, standoffs and clip, and a green G-10 handle. At 4.5 inches closed, the  knife is sized just right to handle just about any cutting task. The linerlock secures quite tightly at the lower third of the tang with no blade play. A series of traction notches at the exposed portion of the liner permits the thumb to easily seat and secure itself to unlock the blade. 

 

HOW LINERLOCKS SHOULD LOCK

Many knife nuts in-the-know have certain preferences to where a brand new linerlock knife’s lock spring should hit on the tang when the blade is locked open. Some prefer it to hit in the lower third of the tang, from the linerlock side. Some prefer it to hit in the middle.

One thing to remember about linerlocks is there is a break-in period for the lock. In other words, as the metal on the end of the lock spring wears to conform with the tang, it is likely that the spring will travel more toward the center of the tang—not a whole lot, just a little. Hence, it is probably best to select a linerlock knife where the spring hits on the lower third so it can compensate some following the break-in period.

— by Dexter Ewing

Above: The test linerlocks exhibit how they wedge the blades open at the tangs, from left: Steel Will Nutcracker, Puma SGB Mach I, Citadel Kampot and CRT CEO Bamboo. On the tang of the blade where the linerlock spring directly hits, the face is machined at an angle so that when the spring moves into place, there is a wedging effect that stops the spring from moving any farther. Titanium is an ideal material for the spring as titanium tends to gall, or stick, to steel, and, of course, the tang is steel.

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