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Pat Covert

Best Multi-Tools: Multitasker Marvels

A Good Multi-Tool Can Help You In A Pinch In Numerous Ways. This Quartet Of Tools Are Up To The Task Of Getting You Out Of A Bind.

Right off the bat, anyone who needs a multi-tool on a daily basis will face one huge question when making a purchase: How much multi-tool do I need? Options abound on the multi-faceted workhorses. Blades, pliers, shears, screwdrivers, wrenches, wire strippers/snips, files, cap lifters, can openers and the like are great to have when you need them. 

The dilemma is weeding out what you do and don’t need, plus what size multi-tool you’re willing to carry. Alternatively, if you just need a multi-tool for the tool or glove box, the world is your oyster. Let’s test four diverse multi-tools that offer a wide variety of talents to help make your choice easier.

Boker Plus Specialist II

Boker Plus Specialist II
Boker Plus Specialist II

The Boker Plus Specialist II is a full-blown multi-tool with a load of tools. Like many of its type, it centers the workload around a beefy set of pliers. At the pliers’ base are a wire stripper and cutter. Tucked in the butterfly handles are a host of other tools including a knife, hex wrenches, bit driver with storage, glass breaker, file, ruler, wood saw, can opener, and bottle opener. At 10.13 ounces it’s the heaviest of the review multis, but then it also has the most extensive tool kit.

The Specialist II has a full-size pair of spring-loaded pliers with special cutting blades built into the base of the jaws—a sign that it’s serious about cutting wire and cord. I honed in on this feature by giving the cutters a go on some multi-strand computer cable, snipping off half-inch lengths. 

The blades handled cutting the cable with ease as if it were an afterthought. The assortment of tools is admirable, especially the knife and saw blades that are large enough to do some serious work, a trait not always found on multis. The nylon belt sheath is a must-have on a multi-tool of the Specialist II’s weight. Kudos to Boker for including it.

MSRP: $89.95

Paul Chen Professional Multi-Tool

Paul Chen Professional Multi-Tool
Paul Chen Professional Multi-Tool

The Paul Chen Professional Multi-Tool from CAS Iberia is a large multi that, unlike many, centers around a stout pair of spring-loaded carbon steel shears that slide out on rails by pressing locking buttons on each side of the handle. 

Once the shears are out the handles separate, giving easy access to the Professional’s other tools: knife and saw blades, fold-out pliers, small flat-head screwdriver/can opener combo, Phillips head screwdriver, and removable sharpening file. There’s a pocket clip on the back side.

The Professional surprised me with how stout it is considering its low price tag. The main feature is shears that have 1.5-inch blades of carbon steel. I gave these a run through various materials such as canvas and cardboard and they cut like a walk in the park, so I upped the ante with some quarter-inch lasso rope. 

This is a very stiff, wax-impregnated rope that some blades aren’t particularly fond of. The hungry shears took off nice, clean lengths with little effort. This multi-tool is limited in scope with its tool selection—not surprising at its cost—but there are enough implements to get you by. The knife blade opens via a thumb stud and a linerlock secures it open. At 15 bucks you could buy several of these and sprinkle them in such places as the glovebox, tool drawer, and/or backpack.

MSRP: $15

CRKT Septimo

CRKT Septimo
CRKT Septimo

CRKT has never followed the pack with its multi-tool designs and the Septimo is no different. Based on a flat, compact 4.84 x 1.25 x .4-inch somewhat rectangular platform and at 4.4 ounces, the black-oxide-coated Septimo is roughly half the load of the larger test multis. 

Notable is an adjustable wrench for tightening and loosening nuts and bolts. The tanto blade has a deep Veff serration at the base and secures open via a linerlock. Other tools include Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, a glass breaker, and a bottle opener. It has a pocket clip for easy carry.

The Septimo is a very pocketable multi-tool with an inch of its total length dedicated to the adjustable wrench/glass breaker on one end. Though the Septimo’s handle is not as comfortable as that of a typical knife, the multi’s blade did the trick slicing two-layer corrugated cardboard, paracord, and even 3/8-inch rappelling rope. 

I would have chosen a more utilitarian blade pattern like a sheepsfoot or drop point, but that’s me, and the tanto did more than enough to impress. The adjustable wrench can accept up to a half-inch bolt head. I gave it a twirl tightening and loosening a 3/8-inch bolt on a rock clamp I use doing lapidary work. The wrench did an excellent job. All in all, you’ll like the unorthodox yet effective Septimo.

MSRP: $56

SOG Flash MT

SOG Flash MT
SOG Flash MT

The SOG Flash MT multi-tool is a great companion to your SOG Flash AT folder, but don’t let that stop you should you prefer a different knife.

The Flash MT is a barebones seven-tool multi with an assisted-opening clip-point blade, full-size pliers, a wire cutter and stripper, a large combo flat-head screwdriver/bottle opener, and a small double-ended Phillips/flat-head screwdriver with a bit drive in the base. It is the only test multi-tool in which the main body is designed specifically as a conventional knife handle.

The Flash MT has an asymmetrical handle design in that one half of the butterfly grip is slim, holding only the small bits in a foldout cyan holder, while the other grip is packed with tools. The blade did a good job cutting paracord and rappelling rope. 

The wire cutter/stripper handled its chores well—not a surprise as SOG is well known for making some serious multi-tools. Using the main body of the handle with just the blade for cutting was very comfortable, with only the pocket clip feeling a tad out of place if you’re right-handed like me. 

That said, the back-side clip is right at home; in fact, it’s no different from carrying a mid-sized EDC folder. This is a well-designed multi that deserves your consideration.

MSRP: $69.95

The review multi-tools provide many choices in size and tool selection. You can go big with the Boker Plus and Paul Chen multis or lighten the load with the CRKT and SOG models. Pick prudently and you’ll have a workmate worthy of your daily workload.

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Shaving Sharp

Thanks To The Internet, Straight Razors Are Back In Style. These Trio Of Blades Can Keep You Looking Sharp And Feeling Smooth.

Mastering shaving with a sho-nuff handheld straight razor is a lost art that has recently become more popular thanks to social media shaving gurus and those who like a good challenge. 

Straight razors never went away, the internet just has a knack for making old things new and cool again. Let’s look at a trio of current offerings and shave them through their paces.

Boker King Cutter

Boker King Cutter

Boker has been producing straight razors since 1869 and the company offers many models today. The King Cutter, the company’s most popular razor, features a carbon steel blade with a deep hollow grind. The handle is a black polymer with a brass Boker Tree Brand logo escutcheon. The King Cutter was the lightest of the three review pieces, tipping the scales at a svelte 1.47 ounces. It features a monkey tail tang for quick blade access.

Being the most expensive of the test lot by a long shot and from a company that has been making straight razors for over 150 years, you’d expect the King Cutter to perform well. Simply put, it did. The blade was, ahem, razor-sharp right out of the box and glided through my two-day stubble clean as a whistle. I never had to back up and go over an area to get it smoother.

 The thinnest of the review blades, it got into tight spots a bit easier. However, a word of warning is in order. An extremely sharp blade like this will cut you faster, too, so take your time! The King Cutter’s high price tag may scare some away, though there are other straight razors out there that cost much more.

MSRP: $189.95

Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor

Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor

Rough Ryder’s Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor has all the trappings at a budget price, including the good looks of a traditional straight razor. The cinnamon bone stag handle, replete with an acorn escutcheon, is downright handsome—and Rough Ryder does bone stag well. 

The cutting portion of the blade has a light yet distinctive damascus pattern running across its face, and a barber’s notch at the point aids in safely opening and deploying the blade. A monkey tail tang completes the package.

Right out of the box, the Rough Ryder entry shaved the stubble straight from my face. The blade was plenty sharp and I was able to get into tight spots with good results. When you get down to the nitty-gritty, there are differences between this razor and an expensive one like the Boker.

There is a tad more drag on the blade and I had to back up a few times to get the area I was shaving totally smooth. To be honest, I expect this from a razor at this price point, and you should, too. That said, the Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone got the job done and was no slouch. I recommend this razor to those who want to get their feet wet before taking the plunge on a high-dollar cutter. And, by golly, it was the most attractive of the bunch!

MSRP: $29.99

TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2

TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2

The TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2 is designed as an EDC and not billed as a straight razor. Nonetheless, we threw it into the fray to see if we could shave with it, letting the chips fall where they may. 

A full 2.625 inches of the blunt-tipped blade has a slightly bowed edge. There’s a rat-tail tang reminiscent of the old friction folders, though not forged. The Tac-Raze 2 has a deep choil below the blade edge that splits time with the handle. TOPS includes a dark brown leather slip and a small bottle of protectant.

Would an EDC with a razor-style blade shave? Given how many YouTube videos there are of guys shaving with everything from bowies to kitchen fare, I figured why the heck not? A cursory check right out of the box with the blade warmed up and a light coat of shaving cream on a cheek gave me surprising results. Not only did the Tac-Raze 2 shave my stubbled skin with ease, it was darn smooth! Next, I cleaned the blade up and stropped it, and the shave was as smooth as I could get with a standard straight razor.

As I worked around my face I found some gremlins with the TOPS EDC. The handle is not nearly as nimble as a standard straight razor, which is to be expected since it’s not a standard straight razor. I found getting into tight areas like the crack between my upper lip and cheek particularly dicey. Bottom line? What you lose in dexterity with the Tac-Raze 2 you gain in versatility since, after all, this is an EDC knife with all the benefits—and it comes with a slick leather slip.

MSRP: $139

Scoring The Straight Razors

All three in our razor trio had their strengths and weaknesses, but all got the job done. The Boker King Cutter is the pro razor of the bunch. The Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone is a nice entry-level shaver, and the TOPS Tac-Raze 2 is certainly the most versatile.

One final note: don’t be afraid to try a straight razor. As a knife enthusiast, chances are you’ve already developed a healthy respect for sharp blades. Wade in slowly and carefully—once you get a feel for the straight razor, it will feel right at home in your hand.  Happy shaving!

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Forged In Fame

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Inspiration And Guidance From Jerry Fisk Has Helped Forged In Fire Champion Ricardo Vilar Continue His Rise To Steel Stardom.

It’s hard enough to make it to top bladesmith status in the USA but even harder if you are from another country. Brazilian bladesmith Ricardo Vilar is one of those who worked hard, persisted like hell, and has been rewarded with both high accolades and fame for his efforts.

Starting with humble beginnings and a love for knives at an early age, Ricardo resides in the USA now and is living the dream.

“Growing up in the countryside of Brazil, for some reason I always loved knives,” he recalls. “At that age as Boy Scouts, we were allowed to use knives—and more, the knife was part of the uniform—so I was able to carry one on my belt. But my family wasn’t wealthy enough for me to be able to buy the knives I wanted, so making my own was a natural progression.

Ricardo’s love for carrying belt knives as a Boy Scout in his youth carries over into his stag hunter in damascus. (Image courtesy of @digitalbladesmith)

“I started with stock removal because 30 years ago in Brazil it was very difficult to find a blacksmith, and impossible to find a bladesmith. They were people considered rare and with ‘magical’ knowledge. I started following other makers who were ahead of my knowledge. But something really interesting I would like to say, at that age at least in Brazil, the sharing of information wasn’t very popular. Also, remember, we had no Internet, so my progress was really slow.”

Inspiration From A Legend

Ricardo knew if he was going to progress at a more rapid pace, he had to go outside Brazil to get help. He did so by reaching out to one of America’s most famous and lauded bladesmiths: Jerry Fisk. He invited Jerry to Brazil, offering to pay his expenses.

“I asked Jerry if he would stay at my home because we had no money to pay for a nice hotel room,” Ricardo states. “He accepted my offer and with his help we were able to set up a better workshop, which was the turning point for my knifemaking in Brazil. We have become great friends ever since.”

Jerry remembers his first visit to Ricardo’s home country and the South American bladesmith’s sacrifice to get him there.

“I met Ricardo in the fall of 2001,” he said. “He and some other makers wanted to get someone to come to Brazil to help them start looking around at what the world was doing in the knife business. Ricardo sold his car to get the funds together to have me flown there.”

This flowing bowie by Ricardo Vilar shows the design influence of his mentor, Jerry Fisk and also Ricardo’s own creative approach to knife construction.

The American and Brazilian immediately bonded.

“I realized right off how good he was as a businessperson,” Jerry said. “And the fact that he had a really good sense of humor started things off with a bang. Though neither of us spoke the other’s language well, we both managed to come up with enough jokes and pranks that it made learning and sharing cultures fun together.

“On the first trip—others followed—we would stay up till 1 to 3 in the morning talking about how the world worked regarding knives. On the first trip I helped Ricardo and other Brazilian bladesmiths form a knifemakers’ group, with the rules being a blend of both The Knifemakers’ Guild and the American Bladesmith Society bylaws mixed in with what would work for them. We worked on forging carbon steel but, more important at the time, we went down to the junkyard, gathered up all kinds of materials, made gas forges and made damascus. We were using vacuum cleaners, hair dryers, anything that would work.”

Jerry’s impact on Ricardo has been immeasurable. “If you pay attention to my designs, it is clear to see Jerry’s influence,” he said. “I like the style and the functionality of his knives and this is what I like to pay attention to when I design a knife.”

Forging In The USA

The next few years Ricardo’s hard work began to pay off. In 2005, he became the first-ever ABS journeyman smith from South America. The same year he began working with the Brazilian Army Jungle War Instruction Center designing and producing knives for the military. “I still have my little company in Brazil which makes knives for law enforcement, firefighters, first responders and the like,” he notes.

In 2017 he was faced with the biggest decision of his life. “I had been visiting Arkansas since 2003, more specifically the Nashville area—yes, there is a Nashville, Arkansas,” he smiled. Such a move would allow him to be closer to Fisk’s home as well as the cutlery action in the United States. The Vilars also were keenly attracted to the Razorback State’s splendid beauty. “When my family and I decided to immigrate to the U.S., we felt like the Arkansas area would be awesome for us to be connected with nature,” Ricardo explains, “so Nashville, Arkansas, was our top option.”

“His success in knives is quite simple, really,” Jerry Fisk says of Ricardo. “Work your butt off doing the best you can do until you get done what the client deserves. Repeat next week, but better.”

Once situated stateside, Ricardo and his knifemaking blossomed, propelling him to new heights. Not only did he start winning awards for his work the world over, he had an opportunity to collaborate with Jerry. The two friends were recruited to produce limited edition knives for the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation. As the foundation’s press release states, “The Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation was proud to work with Ricardo Vilar in establishing the first-of-its-kind limited edition knife collection. The Foundation chose Mr. Vilar for his outstanding craftsmanship and love of the outdoors. We tasked him with making and testing a blade that not only would meet the demands of use in the field, but could also be displayed in the board/trophy room. With several of the board members owning a custom Vilar knife already, they knew he would make something they would all be proud to own.”

Ricardo also enjoyed the publicity of appearing on, and winning, an episode of the popular Forged in Fire television series in March of last year. “It was an awesome experience and I need to tell you, it is not as easy as you might think,” he relates. “I made a very interesting African weapon called an ikakalaka. I made two instead of one and I had the difficult job of deciding which one I was going to compete with.” Ricardo won the competition with ease and most likely would have done so with either sword.

Fisk shares Ricardo’s secret to making it in the knife world.

“His success in knives is quite simple, really. Work your butt off doing the best you can do until you get done what the client deserves. Repeat next week, but better. Be honest enough that the client knows he can play poker over the telephone with you and get a fair hand. Then after all that, have the sale come in at 10 percent below market price,” Jerry advises. “I have had Ricardo help me set up for the cutting competitions that I work with simply because his knives cut very well. Yes, Renata, his wife, often engraves and does gold inlay, but the knives will also cut well.”

Ricardo’s story is one of hard work, dogged determination, taking chances—and winning.

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Down To The Nitty Gritty: Caping Knives

Caping Knives, Or Capers, Are Necessary For The Finer Parts Of Creating Taxidermy. They’re Also Capable Carving Knives Or A Great EDC.

Caping knives, a.k.a. capers, aren’t mentioned very often in the grand scheme of all things cutlery—though don’t tell that to those who like to mount their trophy game. The caper is a huge part of skinning game in preparation for taxidermy where preserving the fine details is absolutely essential.

Tasks such as trimming around the animal’s eye sockets and mouth area are particularly critical, and the blade must be sharp and small enough to get down to the nitty gritty. That’s not to say a caper can’t handle other functions, such as fine carving and cutting cord. Heck, it can even be used as an EDC.

WEB Pocket Hunter-Caper

 The A.G. Russell Knives Pocket Caper cut nice, tight circles in the suede thanks to the sharp tip and thin blade geometry. The two cutouts at lower right were made with the Russell blade, and the one on the lower left by another blade that didn’t fare as well.
The A.G. Russell Knives Pocket Caper cut nice, tight circles in the suede thanks to the sharp tip and thin blade geometry. The two cutouts at lower right were made with the Russell blade, and the one on the lower left by another blade that didn’t fare as well.

The WEB Pocket Hunter-Caper is produced under the War Eagle Blades division of A.G. Russell Knives, hence the WEB in the name. We’ll just call it the Russell Pocket Caper for simplicity’s sake—and what a simply utilitarian knife it is! The hidden-tang fiberglass-reinforced-nylon (FRN) handle comes in black or bright orange. The blade is a straight-back style with a V-grind from edge to spine. The snap-lock FRN color-coordinated sheath has a tubed hole in the base to hold a lanyard or neck knife cord/chain.

Since one main function of a caper is precision cutting, I wanted to see which of our test knives could turn on a dime—or in this case, a nickel. Using spray adhesive, I tacked a square of suede to a smooth wood surface and drew a group of circles using the perimeter of a nickel as a guide. I then hand-cut each circle to see how precise I could be in removing it from the base. The Russell Pocket Caper, with its much thinner blade, allowed the tip to glide around the outline of the nickel with precision and cut the suede with very little effort. As you might guess, the thinner the blade, the less resistance I encountered.

Bear & Son Rosewood Caper

 Two nice features of the Bear & Son Rosewood Caper handle are 1) the choil adds excellent purchase and 2) the gimped thumb rest on the spine enables you to choke up on the blade.
Two nice features of the Bear & Son Rosewood Caper handle are 1) the choil adds excellent purchase and 2) the gimped thumb rest on the spine enables you to choke up on the blade.

The Bear & Son Rosewood Caper is a modern take on the classic trailing-point knife many of us grew up with. The upswept blade is devoted to cutting chores. The knife’s weight is very manageable and a natural leather belt sheath is included.

The Bear & Son has the second thinnest blade of the test group and placed second to the Russell in cutting out suede circles. I also tested the knives on slicing graceful curves and upward pull-through cuts and found the Bear & Son to have its own advantages.

The generously gimped thumb rest enables you to choke up on the blade, which allows more precision and force to be placed on the task at hand, and, just as importantly, with great comfort. Similarly, the index finger has a nice place to land in the reverse grip while executing pull-throughs, which makes skinning—an equally important part of caping—easier.

Puma SGB Smooth White Bone Caper

 The Puma SGB Smooth White Bone Caper slices like a house afire, cutting strips of tanned leather with ease. Drop-point blades are skinners at heart and this little gem does the job well.
The Puma SGB Smooth White Bone Caper slices like a house afire, cutting strips of tanned leather with ease. Drop-point blades are skinners at heart and this little gem does the job well.

The Puma SGB Smooth White Bone Caper is the smallest of the test subjects but makes up for anything it may lack in size with stylish good looks. The decked-out caper boasts a hollow-ground recurved blade in a drop-point pattern. Like most all of the more budget-friendly SGB models, the blade is made in Germany and the knife is assembled in Asia.

The handle is curvaceous, tapering upward from the base to a bolster that serves as a guard. A round Puma shield graces the scales and a hole in the base has a leather lanyard attached. (I removed the lanyard for photographic purposes.)

With its recurved drop point, the Puma SGB is a totally different blade design than the other test capers. Drop-point patterns are well known for their skinning ability, particularly riding under flesh without piercing organs. This is where the White Bone Caper is at home—slipping under skin and separating viscera from its meaty rewards. It wasn’t as agile cutting out tight circles of suede because where the blade is wide at the tip got in the way as I turned it. That said, it’s a superb slicer.

Utica Shoehorn Elk 1

 The Utica Shoehorn Elk I is the bull of the woods among the test capers. The blade is 4 inches long, 3.75 of that in cutting edge. Though similar in blade configuration to the Bear & Son offering below it, the Shoehorn Elk I dwarfs it in size.
The Utica Shoehorn Elk I is the bull of the woods among the test capers. The blade is 4 inches long, 3.75 of that in cutting edge. Though similar in blade configuration to the Bear & Son offering below it, the Shoehorn Elk I dwarfs it in size.

The Utica Shoehorn Elk 1 is by far the largest of the test knives. The drop-point blade has a healthy choil and a two-inch dip on the spine that serves as a thumb rest. The handle sports ample, curvaceous scales. The knife weighs over twice that of any of the other review capers. Considering the knife’s size, the price is very reasonable.

The Shoehorn Elk 1 is not billed as a caper but it has a blade configuration very similar to that of the Bear & Son test model. The Elk in the name is a dead giveaway that the knife is meant for caping and skinning large game.

I deviated from the suede leather in testing the blade and went to something tougher. I glued together three layers of tight-patterned, corrugated postal board—stout stuff—and gave the knife a go at slicing it the hard way: across the grain. It took some pressure but the blade severed 5.25-inch lengths in single strokes. I have no doubt the Shoehorn Elk 1 could take on tough hide—even alligator scute. While the tip mauled the circle in the nickel-size precision test, it would perform much better on game proportionate to its size.

Finding The Best Caper

All of the knives brought something to the table in the tests. For tight precision caping on small-to-medium game, the Russell and Bear & Son capers were virtually neck-and-neck—the former slightly more geared to precision, the latter a tad more versatile. The Puma SGB excelled more in slicing and a bit less in precision. The Utica can handle the tough hide of larger game the others can only dream of.

Bottom line, it’s really just a matter of choosing which caper fits your needs the best.

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Offset Kitchen Knife Handles? We Test 3 of Them.

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The offset handle may just save your skin during meal prep

Most will agree that offset handles on kitchen knives look just a bit funky, but have you ever pondered why the unusual “stepped design” is what it is? Actually, there’s a method to the madness and it’s really quite simple. It’s to save your knuckles from getting banged up while slicing. Little has been written about this unusual handle, so we thought it would be both fun and informative to give a handful of o set-handle kitchen knives a spin around the cutting board.

It should be noted that such cutters often are referred to as bread* or sandwich knives which, when you think about it, makes sense, since loaves of bread typically have largish,  at bottoms that require getting the digits down low when cutting. Plus, like the majority of bread knives, most are serrated.

What’s an offset worth? In this case a half inch. At top is a Boker chef’s knife the author has used for years. The drop from handle to blade edge is .75 inch. On the Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife at bottom, the drop is 1.25 inches.

The test knives have full serrations and, interestingly, there is a slight bow to the blades as well.  The slight curve enables you to rock the blade back and forth on all cutting to make sure the cut is complete, a trait common to most cleavers as well. Serrations are a double-edged sword, so to speak, in that they make it easy to saw through most media.  The other edge of the sword is that they can be a nightmare to sharpen, a feat some prefer to job out to the factory or professionals. However, serrations work particularly well at food prep for many breads, meats and vegetables, which is why so many kitchen knives of all types have them. Note that the featured models are hidden-tang knives—all the better to keep unwanted fluids out of the nooks and crannies found on their full-tang counterparts.

KITCHEN CUTTERS 

The Boker blade is all business as there is no effort to etch the damascus, though the pattern is faintly visible.

The Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife is the high-priced spread, pun intended. It is a large bread knife but is extremely lightweight due to its very thin blade.  The blunt-tipped pattern has full serrations, each approximately .25 inch long. According to a Boker spokesperson, the blade’s core is VG-10 stainless.  The damascus pattern is forged of various stainless steels by Japan’s Takefu Special Steel, Ltd.  The blade is all business as there is no effort to etch the damascus, though the pattern is faintly visible.  The ovate handle is topped with a stainless steel bolster.

 

 The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is the smallest of the test slicers. Billed as a “go-to knife for all food preparation chores,” its blade has fine .125-inch serrations along the edge.  The CTS BD1N stainless blade steel is made by Carpenter Technology, a leader in the industry, and is considered much better than common culinary alloys.  The handle is yellow polypropylene, a common synthetic found on many kitchen knives because it is dense and repels water.  The Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is super lightweight.

The Blunt-Tip Z Cut is a smaller, handier version of the other two test knives.

 

The Victorinox 9-inch Offset Sandwich Knife is the largest and heaviest of the test bunch, edging out its Boker counterpart by a half inch and a half ounce. Victorinox has always been hush-hush about its proprietary steels but does indicate that the blade is stainless steel with a carbon content of .5 percent^.  e blade has .25-inch serrations and the ample handle is a black synthetic. After its acclaimed Swiss Army knives, Victorinox is well known for the Forschner brand kitchen knives, which it has owned controlling stock in since 1981.

The Victorinox 9-inch O set Sandwich Knife is the largest and heaviest of the test bunch, edging out its Boker counterpart by a half inch and a half ounce.

TASTY TESTING

I tested the two large o set knives sideby-side as their specs were so similar, starting with a 4×7-inch loaf of Publix Tuscan Boule bread. Unlike run-of-the-mill white bread, Tuscan Boule has a very tough rind. Using the knives in sawing strokes, I took off quarter- to half-inch slices. Both knives performed admirably, giving me any grief only on the  at base of the loaf due to its full 7-inch rind. Once I got used to rocking the blade on the final cut, this, too, made for quick business. My biggest takeaway, however, was that offset handles do indeed work! In fact, I didn’t come anywhere close to busting a knuckle. My knuckles tapped the cutting board top a few times, but nowhere near as badly had I been using a handle without the offset. Both the Boker and Victorinox were comfortable in the hand, with the latter having an edge due to its fat, curvaceous—not to mention slightly longer—handle, though you’d be  fine with either knife.

The Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife takes off nice, clean slices of Tuscan Boule bread. The bread has a tough rind but the serrated blade made quick work of it.

Next I took the knives outside the Bread Zone, testing them on other foodstuffs such as corned beef and Cajun sausage. Both knives sliced extremely well. Indeed, you could make an entire sandwich using these knives—but would you want to? By doing so you’d dull your serrations faster, even if minutely. It may be better to stick to bread and let your other kitchen knives share the cutting chores.

The author took the Victorinox 9-inch Sandwich Knife out of the “Bread Zone” and used it to cut neat slices of corned beef. You may or may not wish to use your bread knife in this manner, but the option is there.

 The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is a smaller, handier version of the two bigger models, mainly because you need not drag out a large cutting board to use it. It’s not going to slice its way through a large loaf like the Tuscan Boule, but it will whip its way through a smaller sub-style sandwich or your standard white bread lunch quickie. I also gave it a spin slicing tomatoes, portobello mushrooms and a 3-inch chub of summer sausage.  The knife performed very well and is limited only by its size.  The Blunt-Tip Z-Cut’s blade is scary sharp—not surprising since serrations have been in Spyderco’s wheelhouse for quite a while.  Where’s also a plain-edge version of the knife available—the Pointed Z-Cut.  These two make for good companion knives and the plain-edge version will cut down your use of the serrated one.

The Z-Cut proved to be a little powerhouse, taking slices off a chub of summer sausage with aplomb. The CTS BD1N stainless steel takes a sharp serrated factory edge—a Spyderco specialty.

The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is billed as a versatile knife for all sorts of food prep. The author sliced up some tomato and worked on a portobello mushroom cap. Note the precise slices.

CHOICES ABOUND

All of the test knives were wicked sharp. You might ask yourself, if the two large bread knives cut equally well, why pay such a higher price for the Boker? For the same reason some carry affordable Kershaw folders as their EDC and others spend much more on a Chris Reeve: choices abound in the culinary world, just as they do in the EDC realm.

*Editor’s note: Standard bread knives have conventional, straight handles.

^Medium carbon steel has a carbon content of approximately .3 to .59 percent. High carbon steel has a carbon content of approximately .6 to .99 percent. 

Four Battle Tough Military-Style Fixed Blade Knives

Today’s military-style fixed blades are ready for duty. These four are certainly ready to earn their stripes.

What Are The Top Military-Style Fixed Blade Knives:

The history of cutlery has many different facets but none any more glorified than the fixed-blade knives that have seen battle for centuries. Fixed blades are still a major part of our fighting forces’ need for strong steel and they’ve become more diverse since the modern tactical age began in the early-to-mid 1990s.

Condor Tool & Knife’s Neck Gladius

One thing hasn’t changed: such knives must perform duties outside of combat. An example is Condor Tool & Knife’s Neck Gladius, a diminutive version of the classic Roman combat sword. Designed by writer/outdoorsman and BLADE University instructor Joe Flowers, its double-edged blade is handsomely ground in Condor’s favorite blade material: 1075 high carbon steel. The black-paracord-wrapped handle has a tail at the base. A black Kydex neck sheath includes a nice length of paracord for neckwear.

The black Kydex sheath of the Neck Gladius includes a suitable length of paracord for neck wear.
The black Kydex sheath of the Neck Gladius includes a suitable length of paracord for neck wear.

One of the best uses I’ve found for small neck knives is preparing tinder as a firestarter. The neck knife makes for an excellent companion to a larger knife for doing detail work, so I put the Neck Gladius to work doing just that.

Hitting my sweet spot, a pine forest north of town, I used the small blade to dig out some nice chunks of pine resin, which burns nice and long as tinder. I complimented the pine resin with some fine pine shavings to complete the kit. The little Condor will handle other small tasks as well, such as cutting paracord to length. “Handy” is its middle name!

Condor Tool & Knife Neck Gladius
Designer: Joe Flowers
Blade Length: 3.14″
Blade Material: 1075 high-carbon steel
Handle Material: Baracord wrap
Weight: 2.12 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.06″
Sheath: Kydex with paracord lanyard
Country Of Origin: El Salvador
MSRP: $54.98

DoubleStar Blades Chico Diablo X

Designed by BLADE® field editor Kim Breed, the Chico Diablo X from DoubleStar Blades is, as you might expect, tough as nails. It is a medium-sized sheath knife with a harpoon-pattern blade. A deep index finger groove extending from the bottom/front of the checkered scales into the tang adds grip when getting down to business. The black Boltaron sheath has a real-deal Tek-Lok for carry options. Weight is a manageable
6.24 ounces.

A deep index finger groove extending from the bottom/front of the checkered scales into the tang of the DoubleStar Chico Diablo X adds grip when getting down to business.
A deep index finger groove extending from the bottom/front of the checkered scales into the tang of the DoubleStar Chico Diablo X adds grip when getting down to business.

The knife’s size is perfect for medium-duty field tasks such as dressing game, prepping meals, cutting rope and working wood. It’s not heavy enough for chopping but is a serious slicer. I tested the blade across the grain on a 4.5×2.25-inch slab of cold corned beef brisket. Despite the blade being shorter than the chunk of beef, the Nitro-V stainless steel glided through the brisket, taking off one clean quarter-inch slice after another. The Chico Diablo X is a well-built multi-tasker worth every penny of its surprisingly affordable price tag.

Doublestar Blades Chico Diablo X
Designer: Kim Breed
Blade Length: 3.75″
Blade Material: Nitro-V Stainless
Handle Material: Black G-10 with green G-10 liners
Weight: 6.24 ozs.
Overall Length: 8″
Sheath: Black Boltaron with Tek-Lok attachment
Country Of Origin: USA
MSRP: $149.99

Kizlyar Supreme Senpai

The Kizlyar Supreme Senpai is the longest knife of the test group, including a tanto blade in more of a traditional Japanese curved-tip style. The handle is spare of curves save for a slight finger groove and short guard. The scales are nicely rounded and Kizlyar provides a sandwiched matching green synthetic belt sheath for carry.

The Senpai includes a traditional Japanese tanto blade. The handle has nicely rounded scales spare of curves save for a slight finger groove and a short guard. The knife comes with a matching green synthetic belt sheath.
The Senpai includes a traditional Japanese tanto blade. The handle has nicely rounded scales spare of curves save for a slight fi nger groove and a short guard. The knife comes with a matching green synthetic belt sheath.

Given its weight and slim blade profile, I liked the Supreme Senpai for slicing and shaving from a utility standpoint. I roughed out a seasoned hardwood tent peg using a small hatchet, and tested the blade at finetuning the pointed tip and shaving the sides. The long blade came in handy as I could pull it through while slicing and shaving rather than simply pushing it downward against the tough hardwood—my reasoning being, if it could handle stout wood, simpler chores like meal prep and cutting rope would be a snap. The Supreme Senpai blade performed well shaping the challenging wood, leaving no doubt it could be handy around camp.

Kizlyar Supreme Senpai
Blade Length: 6.75″
Blade Material: AUS-8 stainless
Handle Material: OD green Kraton/ABS plastic
Weight: 10.3″
Overall Length: 12″
Sheath: Polyamide Nylon
Country Of Origin: Russia
MSRP: $150

Halfbreed Blades Medium Infantry Knife

How brutish is the Aussie-made Halfbreed Blades Medium Infantry Knife? Consider this—it’s around just one ounce shy of the other three test knives combined in weight! The blade is a whopping .23-inch thick at its thickest, features 1.5 inches of serrations from the tang forward, and has a black, rust-resistant Tefl on coating. The ample handle scales are “chunked” black G-10 and there’s a wicked skull crusher. The sheath has rear attachments for MOLLE (Modular Lightweight Load-carrying
Equipment) or belt carry.

The Halfbreed Medium Infantry Knife incorporates brutish .23-inch blade steel. The author pulled it through five lengths of 3/8-inch rappelling rope in one clean slice using the forward plain edge portion of the blade.
The Halfbreed Medium Infantry Knife incorporates brutish .23-inch blade steel. The author pulled it through five lengths of 3/8-inch rappelling rope in one clean slice using the forward plain edge portion of the blade.

This overbuilt brute is a handful capable of chopping, slicing and shaving. Given its near three-quarter-pound weight it will no doubt chop, but the serrations somewhat limit the chopping ability of the blade’s plain edge portion. (Serrated edges will chop but it’s hard on them, and resharpening the teeth is a royal pain.)

I tested the knife at slicing and started with lengths of ⅜ -inch synthetic rappelling rope. Working my way up, I was able to slice cleanly through five lengths of the rope side-by-side before I ran out of rope. The handle offered superb grip throughout the testing process. The Halfbreed entry has the ability to perform heavy-duty camp chores like
shelter building, chopping branches for firewood and shaving wood.

Halfbreed Blades Medium Infantry Knife
Blade Length: 6.69″
Blade Material: Bohler K110 D2
Handle Material: Black G-10
Weight: 17.08 ozs.
Overall Length: 11.77″
Sheath: Black Kydex
Country Of Origin: Australia
MSRP: $335


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Fit and Finish 101: How to know it when you see it on a knife

By Pat Covert

Fit and finish is bandied about so often in cutlery circles it’s almost become one word, pronounced something like fittenfinnish. A newbie collector who hangs around seasoned custom knifemakers, purveyors and collectors soon learns the “fit-and-finish thing” is a mighty nice trait for the knives in his or her stable to have.

All that being said, is fit and finish the key to a knife being all it can be, or does a knife exhibiting it simply look nicer and cost more? Or does the answer lie somewhere in between? We recruited a panel of authorities to help sort through it all, including purveyors Neil Ostroff of True North Knives, Dave Ellis of Exquisite Knives, Dan Delavan of Plaza Cutlery, and seasoned custom maker Tim Britton.

We started by asking our authorities how they define fit and finish. Britton, who makes highly finished customs, said, “There should be no adhesive or solder showing anywhere. No gaps in inappropriate places. Metal-to-metal joints should be indiscernible. And no visible scratches or grind marks, period. One thing custom knifemakers should be able to do well,” he observes “is finish metal.”

Having the grinds match on each side of the blade as on Marcus Lin’s Andalusian bowie is an indication of fine fit and finish.

In addition to being a purveyor, Ellis also is a retired ABS master smith and knows fit and finish from the maker’s point of view as well. “I define fit and finish of a custom knife to mean is it overall appealing to the eye,” he begins, “are there any obvious gaps in guard or handle fitting, is it a design that will truly work?” Ellis stressed that good, sound design is a factor. “The first thing I look for is the overall appearance. Is the design clean? Is there an organic flow? How does it feel in the hand in different grips? Then I look at the finer details such as guard fit, blade finish, handle design and comfort,” he explains. “As an ABS master smith I also look at things like edge geometry, tapered tangs and plunge cuts. All of these should be [executed properly] in a piece with excellent fit and finish.”

Equality of all aspects on both sides of the knife is one sign of top fit and finish. Greg Cimms achieves it on his kitchen knives.

“Fit and finish is a standard required for all knives,” Ostroff says. “It used to be almost exclusively for custom knives—which are at a higher price level—but more and more the buyers are demanding the same standard for a factory or mid-tech knife which will sell for a remarkably lower price. Fit and finish is generally a well-centered blade—in the case of a folder—no blade play in either direction, flush-fitting bolsters, and a blade finish as the maker intended. By this I mean one cannot expect a stonewashed blade, or handle, not to have scratches. Recently the matter of the strength of the detent has become an issue—again, another subjective item.”

The late Bruce Bingenheimer centered the blade of his folder in the closed position (right), splitting the gold anodized standoffs right down the middle. Note the symmetry between each side of the knife (left) and the slick fit between bolster and handle material (center).

“The criteria for fit and finish depend on the expectations of the buyer,” Delavan qualifies. “Plaza Cutlery also believes design as well as craftsmanship is important. Most important is the design. It has to make sense to me. Any guards should be clean with no gaps, bevels should be the same and no 2-inch glitches. Also, handles have to be clean to the tang or guard with no gaps.”

According to Tim Britton, metal-to-metal joints should be indiscernible. Note the partial knife image second from left. The seam between the blade and backspring of BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ron Lake’s tail-lock interframe is invisible.

 

PERFORMANCE

Does fit and finish affect a knife’s performance? “Poor fit and finish will really show when a knife is put to hard use,” Ellis advises, pointing out potential problems such as hot spots from badly designed and finished handles, guards or buttcaps with sharp edges, bad edge geometry that might cause the blade to dull quicker and be difficult to remove from the sheath, and so on.

David Mirabile achieves a nice, tight fit between the habaki (collar) and tsuba (guard) of his Asian-style piece.

Britton’s take was interesting, to say the least.

“One of my first knives was made in 1972. It was ugly and poorly finished,” he recalls. “[BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member] Frank Centofante helped me sell the knife to a hunting guide from Montana. The guide later wrote to me wanting four more just like it. The knife skinned and dressed three elk before needing sharpening. Steel was Latrobe D2 and Paul Bos did the heat treat. Fit and finish had little or nothing to do with function. Quality of steel, heat treat, grind and sharpening angle were much more relevant.”

Mark Bartlett gets the bolster of case-hardened mild steel and gold-anodized titanium spacers to meld seamlessly with the curly koa handle of his fixed fighter.

“A good finished knife just has a better feel, but a lot of people will not use it,” Delavan notes. “A knife with a lot of cosmetic issues can still be a good tool, and there are makers that don’t worry about those details. Most makers say a knife is meant to be used, not to sit in a safe.” Ostroff tends to agree. “Performance is not typically an issue [with fit and finish]. For example, a knife with an off-centered blade will still function as well as one that is centered—but the customer has the right to get what he or she wants, so we do whatever it takes to make them happy.”

Top fit and finish includes the knife exhibiting no visible scratches or grind marks. Tim Britton’s lockback follows this dictate. As Tim noted, “One thing custom knifemakers should be able to do well is finish metal.”

 

F&F: OVERRATED?

Are there cases where fit and finish is overrated? In other words, are there knives that perform very well even though they may not have the polish of an expensive model but have excellent heat treat, blade geometry, comfort and a more affordable price?”

“Fit and finish is not overrated when trying to satisfy the buyer,” Ostroff opines, “but taking out the collector/safe-queen members of our community, all knives are meant to cut, and all will do so if built to industry standards.”

“I have seen a few knives that performed well with poor fit and finish,” Ellis says. “Usually if a maker takes the time to finish their piece to tight tolerances, they also have taken the time to be sure that the piece has a credible heat treat, edge geometry and an overall good feeling in the hand.” Adds Delevan, “Many of the small production companies do a good job. Fit and finish is good, not perfect, but you have an excellent tool at a more affordable price.”

Note how each grind, bolster and slab mirrors its opposite on the Fenix fixed-blade hunter by Evgeny Khokhlov.

 

WHAT do YOU WANT?

Our authorities made excellent points for and against performance being a factor in fit and finish. Though there were several substantive points about design, in this writer’s opinion it isn’t really a fit-and-finish issue. Design is, of course, very important because no matter how well a knife is made, if the design is poor so will be the performance. From an aesthetic standpoint fit and finish is everything, but, as Delavan points out, many collector-grade knives become safe queens, never seeing action in the field.

A good analogy here would be comparing a Bark River Knives fixed blade to a comparably sized one made by ESEE Knives. Both companies have a huge, extremely dedicated following. Bark River’s fare is finely finished while the ESEE knives are more roughly done, but the latter are half the price or more of the former, depending on materials. Will both knives perform well? You better believe it. Both have stellar performance records. It really depends on whether you want to pay extra for a nicely finished knife or a rough finished one. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and both do their job in spades.

Bottom line is you have some very good options available—and choices make the world of knives go around!

Note the tight fit with no gaps between the color-case-hardened bolster, stainless steel spacers and stabilized ringed gidgee handle of Steve Filicietti’s bowie.

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