Home Authors Posts by Pat Covert

Pat Covert

4 Cool Cleavers in all Different Sizes

0

Latest cleavers are a hot ticket on the camp scene

By Pat Covert

The cleaver has been sneaking up on the cutlery market for several years now. However ironic it may seem, along with the razor, it was in demand on the tactical market before it became popular for culinary attire on the camping/survival scene.

Not anymore. Cleavers are now making their case as viable tools for outdoor use.

An interesting FYI here: Why do most cleavers have a curved blade edge? The curve allows the butcher to rock the blade back and forth to make sure he or she cuts the ends of the meat cleanly.

 

SMALL ’n SLICEY: CRKT Folts Minimalist Cleaver Blackout

The Columbia River Knife & Tool Folts Minimalist Cleaver Blackout is the most diminutive of the test bunch. It’s billed as a neck knife and aptly so. The blade features a hollow grind for enhanced slicing, and the deeply finger-grooved—three grooves total—handle has orange G-10 scales. All black is also available.

The diminutive CRKT Minimalist Blackout is more suited for small tasks than food prep. The blade was wicked sharp and whipped through 3/8-inch rappelling rope with verve.

A cleaver this light is not made for chopping—there’s simply not enough weight behind the blade. That said, the Minimalist Cleaver is not without utility. The old rope knives had deep, flat-edged blades preferred by many sailors, so I decided to try the small cleaver out on some 3/8-inch rappelling stock. The blade is wicked sharp and proved plenty long enough to slice through the rope in clean, one-stroke pulls. It even handled upper-guided pull-throughs with ease. All in all, the Minimalist Cleaver is a handy little neck knife—as long as you use it for slicing.

At 1.7 ounces, the CRKT Minimalist Blackout is hardly noticeable when carried about the neck. The small necker is handy around camp. Those who cut rope, such as rock climbers, will find it handy on the inclines.

SPECS: CRKT FOLTS MINIMALIST CLEAVER BLACKOUT
Blade length: 2.125”
Blade steel: 5Cr15MoV stainless
Handle material: G-10
Special features: Deep finger grooves 
Weight: 1.7 ozs.
Overall length: 5”
Sheath: Black thermoplastic w/neck cord
Country of origin: China
MSRP: $39.99

 

SLICK ’n WICKED: RMJ Tactical Jackdaw

The RMJ Tactical Jackdaw is a small cleaver with a blade not unlike a miniature dao, a type of Chinese sword. In true RMJ fashion, the Jackdaw’s hollow-ground blade has upscale steel with a tungsten Cerakote® finish. The handle includes a nice index finger groove. The scales are machined blaze olive G-10 over orange liners, with diagonal grooves for enhanced purchase. The sheath can be worn for horizontal outside carry or reconfigured vertically inside the waistband.

RMJ Tactical’s Jackdaw is more of a slicer than a chopper, and excelled at taking off super clean slices of Boudin Cajun sausage. Self-defense may be the Jackdaw’s primary purpose but it’s at home in the camp as well.

The Jackdaw is another small cleaver that lends itself to slicing more than chopping. The blade rivals that found on many tactical knives but since the focus here is on camping, I needed to keeping it in its lane. I gave it a go slicing some Louisiana-made 1.25-inch Boudin sausage—Asian meets Cajun, if you will. It made quick work of taking off nice, clean slices. There’s no doubt the Jackdaw would excel in other chores such as cutting rope and paracord, skinning bark, cutting notches in wood and the like. While its looks may not scream camp knife, it’s more than willing to prove you wrong.

The RMJ Jackdaw definitely had the most versatile sheath of the group, here in Scout carry mode on a belt behind the back. It also configures for a vertical tote inside a waistband.

SPECS: RMJ JACKDAW
Blade length: 3.25”
Blade steel: Nitro-V stainless
Handle material: G-10
Special features: Chinese dao-style blade
Weight: 2.9 ozs.
Overall length: 6.625”
Sheath: Molded black Kydex, Scout carry
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $200

 

PRIMORDIAL CHOP: Condor Tool & Knife Primal Cleaver

Of the test bunch, the mid-sized Condor Tool & Knife Primal Cleaver most resembles the shape of the archetypical cleaver. It has a decent amount of heft, the bead-blasted, flat-ground blade does the heavy lifting and there’s an ovate hole in the blade for hanging. The curvaceous handle sports layered scales and there’s a tube lanyard hole in the base replete with a paracord lanyard ready for duty.

Note the scale of the Condor Primal Cleaver in relationship to a medium-sized hand. The cleaver more than excels as an efficient chopper/slicer when weight savings on the trail are at a premium (which they usually are).

I first tested the Primal Cleaver on a variety of veggies. The blade easily chopped through tomatoes and bell peppers in clean, single whacks. Then I tried it at dicing both and the blade performed like a champ. I also tried it on 2-inch-thick beef tenderloin and it chopped out slices admirably. The handle is very comfortable and, though it didn’t fill my medium-size palm, what you give up in length you gain in lighter weight and portability over a full-sized cleaver. I rate this as a very competent bulldog with enough heft to perform a myriad of cooking chores.

The Condor Primal Cleaver is a mid-sized chopper/slicer with the tenacity of a bulldog. It chopped and diced tomatoes and bell peppers with gusto, and did an admirable job on beef tenderloin as well.

SPECS: CONDOR TOOL & KNIFE PRIMAL CLEAVER
Blade length: 4.09”
Blade material: 1095 carbon steel
Handle material: Orange Micarta®
Weight: 5.75 ozs.
Overall length: 7.89”
Sheath: Brown leather belt model
Country of origin: El Salvador
MSRP: $84.98

 

DUAL PURSUIT: White River Knife & Tool Camp Cleaver 

The White River Knife & Tool Camp Cleaver somewhat resembles a shortened Malaysian parang, which is ideally suited for chopping. This is the beast among the test group. The stonewashed blade sports a durable flat grind. A hole in the blade allows for hanging around the campfire for ready access. The handle is nicely sculpted with an ample palm swell and there’s a lanyard hole in the base. White River provides a well-crafted square-based belt sheath.

The White River Camp Cleaver is the beast of the test bunch. It chopped slices off like a house afire on a 2-inch-thick beef tenderloin en route to making a hearty stew. Other veggies like potatoes and mushrooms were a breeze as well.

Anything but typical, the full-size Camp Cleaver’s blade design struck me as one useful for both chopping and slicing, so I gave it a go both ways. I tested the blade on a couple of 2-inch-thick beef tenderloins for a stew. I know, extravagant, I love a good stew. The Camp Cleaver’s heft and sharp edge took off slices of the tenderloin effortlessly, and performed equally as well cubing the meat into squared chunks. Potatoes fared likewise. If you don’t mind packing a full-size cleaver, the White River offering will return the favor by prepping meals for a horde of campers.


The White River Camp Cleaver is 10.125 inches of chopping and slicing heaven. At 8.2 ounces it’s a cleaver with plenty of heft for group food prep, and its CPM S35VN stainless steel blade provides superb cutting ability.

SPECS: WHITE RIVER KNIFE & TOOL CAMP CLEAVER
Blade length: 5.625”
Blade steel: CPM S35VN stainless
Handle material: Black Micarta®
Special features: Traditional hole in the blade for hanging
Weight: 8.2 ozs.
Overall length: 10.125”
Sheath: Brown leather belt model
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $250

 

CLEAVER CORNUCOPIA

As you have no doubt deduced, cleavers come in all shapes and sizes. The CRKT Minimalist necker is a nifty companion for a variety of small chores. The RMJ Jackdaw will slice with the best of them, and its versatile sheath is a nice bonus. Condor’s Primal Cleaver is a great blend of chop-ability and portability. The beastly White River Camp Cleaver is a full-size workhorse at preparing food for a cadre of campers. Next time you’re getting your gear together for an outing, consider the cleaver as part of the package!

Rebooting Collections Works Wonders

Rebooting collections works wonders. OK, so not everyone does it, but many who have done it one or more times seem to enjoy their collecting more.

Chris Nolen has successfully rebooted his knife collection several times since he started collecting. He began in his pre-teens, fueling his cutlery appetite by mowing lawns, and he even wrote a term paper on hunting knives.

Rebooting collections and Chris Nolan
Rebooting collections has paid dividends for Chris Nolen, here with wife Linda and their bowie knife collection.

“I was married at 24 and started collecting handmade hunting knives. Most were stag drop points or skinners,” Chris recalls. “I met a great local maker named Jerry Berry of Natchitoches, Louisiana, who got me interested in not just the handles, but the steel in the blades. Of course, I would buy BLADE® and other knife magazines, and I would always find myself looking for big bowies.

“One day I was sitting at my desk and drew out a large, sort of re-curved, stag-handled bowie. I mailed it to Jerry and realized it was time to reboot my collection of maybe 40 knives. And reboot I did! I sold most of the old hunters to make money for my new passion for large bowies.” Nolen is an avid collector of fine bowies to this day and is as enthusiastic as ever.

J.T. Oldham is a long-time folder collector of the modern tactical type and has rebooted his collection on occasion.

“I was a regular customer of the House of Blades in Fort Worth, Texas, where I found many great knives, and also bought up all of the back issues of BLADE I could lay my hands on,” Oldham states. “Production knives were just a way to whet my appetite, as I soon realized that what I wanted to collect was custom knives—and those knives had to have damascus steel.”

As a result, J.T. rebooted and started collecting upscale custom folders—and does to this day.

“At the ICCE [International Custom Cutlery Exposition] show in Kansas City last year, I bought a knife from my No. 1 knife hero, Ralph Turnbull. He was the knifemaker who really started it all for me. I remember looking on his website and in the pages of BLADE Magazine and thinking, ‘If I could only someday own one of Ralph’s knives I would really be a true collector.’”

Since retiring, however, Oldham has tempered his budget a bit. “I no longer have the disposable liquid capital I once enjoyed, so my purchases are now somewhat limited,” he lamented. “However, I follow the custom knife industry with the same interest that I focus on my retirement investments.”

Conversely, rebooting collections is something Kevin Jones has never tried.

“My preference for knives hasn’t changed over the 15 years I’ve been collecting,” Kevin relates. “I started out collecting American Bladesmith Society hunting knives and bowies, and that’s still what interests me. I consider myself a custom knife collector and investor. I’ve found to be successful on the investor side it helps to limit your area of interest so as to become very knowledgeable on both the knives—and the particular knife market—for the knives you collect.”

To REBOOT or NOT to REBOOT?

Why should you consider the concept of rebooting collections?

“Many collectors end up rebooting collections early on as a result of buying their first knives on impulse prior to them acquiring the knowledge and exposure to determine what type and style of knives are going to hold their interest long term,” Jones observes.

Before rebooting, you need to answer questions concerning not only your preferences and current status, but outside realities as well.

Rebooting collections and Kevin Jones.
Rebooting collections is not for everyone. Kevin Jones has collected ABS hunting knives and bowies and nothing but for 15 years, and has no plans to reboot anytime soon.

“I guess one of the first things to consider is, are you really ready and willing to reboot your collection and take it in an entirely new direction? Has your perspective or your interest changed? Is this an artistic response or a reaction to market trends? For me, a complete reboot means to liquidate your current collection and re-invest in another direction,” Oldham notes. “Are you no longer happy with your knives? Has there been a downturn which has you concerned your collection has lost value? Are you eager to participate in the latest trend?”

Rebooting collections also raises questions as to whether you should sell your current knife collection to finance a new one.

“I feel that’s up to the individual collector,” Jones opines. “However, many need to sell knives in their current collection to help finance them rebooting. I always recommend that while selling an entire collection through a purveyor or auction may be quicker, selling or liquidating piecemeal via a variety of methods will result in a better return.”

Nolen offers a word of caution he discovered after selling off his first collection to reboot.

“Back then I put ads on internet boards and in the newspaper,” he recalls. “I see some knives on eBay that go for hundreds of dollars now that I only paid six to 12 dollars for back in the ’60s and ’70s. I wish now I had most of those back!”

BEST WAYS to LIQUIDATE

What is the best way to liquidate knives if you do decide to sell off your current collection to finance your new one?

“I feel it’s best to use a variety of methods in selling custom knives,” Jones advises, “including contacting other collectors who are interested in the type knives you are selling, selling some on the better knife purveyor sites, and I’ve been very successful selling knives on my ‘collector website.’ It’s very important to have good photos of your knives listed on the internet. You are basically putting your knives out there for the world to see.”

Rebooting collections and J.T. Hill.
Rebooting collections began for J.T. Oldham when he bought a folder from his hero, custom knifemaker Ralph Turnbull, maker of this damascus linerlock.

“I, for one, would never consider using eBay. Not for my collection,” Oldham states. “And there are just too many trolls on the knife forums! I know that there are decent knife forums, but I simply would not regard that as the right place to offer my knives. I would work one-on-one with certain interested parties—and those individuals may be found on forums. This is all said from my perspective and the knowledge I have of certain individuals with whom I have dealt with in the past. I have a rather large and reliable network of purveyors and collectors whom I trust. A good resource for purveyors is BLADE and the KNIVES annual for a comprehensive listing of those who are associated with the knife community.”

Studying and researching the professionals who deal in knife sales, and then determining who among them are the most knowledgeable and reliable for advice is a must.

“Your purveyor of choice is your best ally in determining what would be in your best interest,” Oldham continues. “If this reboot is purely for financial or investment purposes, no one knows the value of knives better than those who actually determine the value of knives on a day-to-day basis. While they may be able to provide a rough ballpark estimate for your collection, values are subject to change. Be prepared to be presented with values which may be far less than you expected or you’re willing to accept. Be willing to make compromises in order to achieve your goal and obtain what you are truly after, as in any business deal.”

Also keep in mind that when selling to purveyors it is important to remember they are in the business to make money, so they must have a profit margin built into the knives they buy.

IS IT TIME?

As you can see from the comments of our seasoned aficionados, collectors are a distinctly different lot—but that’s what makes the whole avocation of cutlery collecting interesting. As human beings we all have a level of curiosity to see what’s on the other side of the door. Once we have opened it we can either leave or explore. Keep in mind a reboot does not have to be an overnight decision. You can always wade into another genre or style without a full commitment. Whether you wish to upgrade your collection, totally switch gears or seek an investment, there are fresh new knives out there to satisfy any desire.

What’s the Best Kind of Knife Grind?

Is There a Perfect Blade Grind?

Who knows when the first argument over the best blade grind started? Most likely it was a conversation between two flintknappers sitting around a cave—and the battle of which grind is the best rages on to this day. The modern tactical and bushcraft movements have brought heated debates on which grind is the best. The grind of a blade is where a key battle is won, and blade geometry varies widely. But is there a so-called best blade grind and, if so, which one is it?

Curved or Flat?

walter brend custom knives
Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice. The man some call the best grinder ever shows his stuff here. (Rodney Hiers image)

According to Wikipedia, blade geometry refers to the “physical properties of a sword blade: cross-section (or grind) and taper.”

You can forget the “sword” qualifier—blade geometry applies to any blade. The three most common blade grinds in use today are hollow, flat and convex, with other grinds of note are the chisel, asymmetrical, Scandi and compound. There are others.

Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice.

“What works for me is the hollow grind,” Brend says. “The hollow-ground blade is not a flat surface, it is concaved, so as you cut an object it immediately starts a separation. The bottom edge should flow from the point to the back of the blade with a recurved blade edge.”

Knifemaker Bob Dozier, well known for making hard-use knives, prefers the hollow grind as well.

“Since I make mostly hunting knives, I prefer the drop-point blade style. Since Bob Loveless popularized the drop point, it’s been the most popular shape for hunting knives for many decades now. Also, for a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer.”

hollow grind blade
Like Walter Brend, Bob Dozier prefers the hollow grind. “For a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer,” Dozier opines. Bob’s fixed blade features a nice, clean hollow grind. (Kerry Peal images)

However, that’s not to say Dozier is adverse to other grinds.

“The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” he opines. “A convex grind is great for splitting firewood.”

Award-winning American Bladesmith Society master smith Jim Crowell won the 1st Annual BLADE Show World Championship Cutting Competition in 2003 and was inducted into the ABS Hall of Fame in 2016.

“My opinion for the best blade geometry is a full flat grind with a convex edge,” Crowell begins. “This grind will give the smoothest transition from the full thickness of the spine to the cutting edge—anything else is something less.”

Crowell is also very familiar with the Bill Moran appleseed or convex grind, which is based on the Japanese hamaguri or “clamshell” grind.

“Bill Moran did like full convex blade geometry,” Crowell notes. “He ground on a round wheel and meticulously shaped the whole blade to have a convex cross section. I have cut with several of Bill’s knives and they were very sharp and had great geometry.

“The full convex grind performs in an exemplary manner, but I cannot discern any advantage in performance over a full flat grind with a convex edge. You do not just slap a convex edge on a blade. There are a myriad of variables: how thick was the edge when you started the roll? How high or low did you roll it? A short and abrupt roll may shave but will not cut well at all.”

Bob Dozier custom knifemaker
“The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” opines Bob Dozier, here busy at his shop grinder. (Pat Covert image)

Degrees of Difficulty

Curious as to the degree of difficulty of applying the various grinds, BLADE® asked Brend, Dozier and Crowell which they thought are the most difficult to execute. They provided varied opinions.

“I think whichever one you do the most is easiest, and the one you do the least is hardest,” Crowell notes. “Once upon a time I used to hollow grind a lot, but then I started to cut a lot and it became apparent to me a flat grind would cut better overall for my use. I gradually phased out hollow grinding and now find it difficult as compared to flat grinding.”

Dozier adds pointedly, “I don’t find any of them hard. I think it depends on how you learn to grind at first. A lot of the makers today learned from someone else and stick with the grind they learned.”

Brend ranked the grinds in order of difficulty.

“Hollow-ground knives, in my opinion, are the hardest to grind,” he begins. “You have to control the blade on a wheel to form a perfect symmetrical line. In my opinion you should keep the point thick, and, at the same time, make your edges sharp and thin.

“Flat ground is next after hollow. In my opinion a true flat-ground blade should be finished by hand because the grinding belt will not allow a true flat surface. Convex is the easiest because you have no set lines or pattern when grinding.”

Order of Importance

best blade grinds
At the grinder here, Bob Dozier says blade geometry is more crucial
in terms of a blade’s cutting performance than the type of steel or
how it is heat treated. “The most important is blade geometry,” he
notes. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do
with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.” (Pat Covert image)

Is blade geometry the most important aspect of a blade’s cutting effectiveness, or is the type of steel or proper heat treating most crucial?

“The most important is blade geometry,” Dozier says. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.”

Crowell differs.

“Heat treat, geometry and steel, in that order,” he opines. “If the heat treat is wrong, the rest will be of little consequence. Proper geometry is next in importance. The steel, although important, is not the determining factor. Of course, you need to have a ‘good’ steel, but it is not the steel that makes the difference. Just because you may have the latest, greatest steel does not mean you will have a superior knife. You have to do it all correctly and in the right order.”

Brend ranks the three differently.

“I think the type of steel is the most important. With proper heat treating you can vary from two-to-four points [on the Rockwell hardness scale] and still cut with the knife because of the type of steel,” he says. “Heat treating is second. With most steels you can be within two points and still cut with the blade. All heat treaters are not the same because of the equipment or their method. Geometry would be the last because if you use the proper steel, you should be able to make any blade work well.”

Flunking Geometry

custom knife mistakes
Uneven grind/plunge lines (right) as seen from the bottom of the blade are one of the more obvious and common things to look for in a bad grind. By contrast, the plunge lines at left are nice and even.

Finally, what makes a bad blade grind?

“What I look for are the grind lines,” Brend explains. “Are the sharp edges of lines rolled? Also, at the back of the blade—where the [grind] line starts—is the steel uneven? I see some hollow grinds where the edges are too thin. If you hit a hard object the blade will chip.”

Opines Dozier: “A poor grind is shown with uneven grind lines, crooked cutting edges or a non-uniform cutting edge.”

“Poor grinding is evidenced by several telltale signs,” Crowell interjects. “Uneven grind/plunge lines as one would look from the bottom of the blade. This is one of the more obvious and common things to look for. Also, the finish on the bottom of the ricasso and choil area is often neglected. You can hold a blade horizontal and look down the flat of the bevel and it should be smooth as glass with no ripples or distortions.”

Jim also notes that on symmetrical patterns such as daggers, look for mirrored-image grinds on both sides of the blade.

One interesting takeaway: The perfect grind may just be determined by how you plan to use your knife—or perhaps you may need two or more knives to cover all the bases.

 

Keep Learning About Knifemaking

how to make knives

4 New Colorful EDC Knives

0

A wise man never said knives should be in color but he never said they shouldn’t be, either. Colorful knives are nothing revolutionary in the cutlery world, but it does seem manufacturers are broadening the spectrum by introducing new models with color and rejuvenating older ones. And why not? Unless you’re a dark-ops type or desire to keep a low profile in life, a little spice in the knife can add personality to your carry.

A lot of color to be had in the cutlery world includes, from left: Steel Will Scylla Blue, Bear & Son 5-inch Pink Butterfly, Puma SGB Orange Featherweight Hunter and SOG-TAC CA Auto.

 

Bear & Son 5-Inch Pink Butterfly

Bear & Son 5-Inch Pink Butterfly

Bear & Son has been making butterfly knives since 1991, and the 5-inch Pink Butterfly is a bright send-up of one of the company’s most popular models. The 5-inch skeletonized handles are zinc with a bright pink powder coat, and a pivoting T-shaped gate lock at the bottom joins them when fully employed. The handle halves rotate off two pivots on the short tang clip-point blade, with a stop pin at the base. The Pink Butterfly’s pivots are very slick with no drag and the T-lock joins them firmly once employed.

Butterfly knives are simple in their mechanisms but require dedicated practice to employ safely and effectively. The basic idea is to grasp the handle, flip the blade out, and then quickly orient your hand to grip the two halves. Expert users employ the blade and launch into a plethora of flipping techniques in the blink of an eye.

The Bear & Son Pink Butterfly made quick work slicing up link sausage for a pot of jambalaya

Heck, butterfly knife users have to eat just like everybody else, so I locked the blade down and took to the kitchen, using the knife to slice link sausage for a pot of jambalaya. The Pink Butterfly performed quite admirably and the color kept this chef, dare I say, in the pink.

Bear & Son 5-Inch Pink Butterfly
BLADE LENGTH:4.25”
BLADE STEEL:440 stainless
BLADE PATTERN:Clip point
HANDLE MATERIAL:Powder-coated zinc
SPECIAL FEATURE:T-latch at base
WEIGHT:5.33 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH:5”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:USA
MSRP:$55.99

SAFETY ORANGE SLICER: The Puma SGB Orange Featherweight

The Puma SGB Orange Featherweight

The Puma SGB Orange Featherweight Hunter is the newest rendition in the company’s Warden line of lockback folding hunters. It lightens the load to a svelte 2.8 ounces thanks to its 5-inch G-10 composite slabs, shaving two ounces off the standard Warden model. An added feature not seen on many folding hunters is a blade-tip-up pocket clip, 2.25 inches long, on the base of the back slab. The G-10 has a checkered texture which does a nice job of enhancing the grip.

The blade offers up a long-pull nail nick with fine gimping on the lower spine to enhance grip. I tested the edge on 3/8-inch synthetic rope and it easily sliced off short lengths in one slice, so I jacked it up to two. No problem. I tried three lengths side by side with firm pressure and lopped them off as well. Like so many folding hunters before it, the lightweight Puma would serve up light field chores and skinning in spades. While the bright handles make the Puma Orange Featherweight Hunter stand out, an OD green model is available if you’d like a more subdued color.

The Puma SGB Featherweight carries blade tip up via its handy pocket clip.

 

CRIMSON CUTTER: The SOG-TAC CA Crimson

The SOG-TAC CA Crimson

The SOG-TAC CA Crimson is especially designed to be street legal in California, where blades on automatics must be 2 inches long or less. The knife uses the SOG-TAC Mini handle in an aluminum anodized an attractive crimson color, with a push-button blade release on the front. SOG adds a slide safety to keep everything in check when not in use, and there’s also a blade-tip-up pocket clip.

Handle size is, indeed, a subjective thing. While the author had around 3/4 of an inch left in his mitt, the SOG-TAC Auto CA handle fit his girlfriend’s hand perfectly. “I still wouldn’t hesitate to carry this little powerhouse,” the author noted.

I was somewhat familiar with this folder because I’ve carried the larger 4.5-inch version in my rotation. Push the SOG-TAC CA’s button release and the blade opens clean and crisp at the blink of an eye. While its blade length is limited, it’s also a nice little EDC. I tested the edge on some tough quarter-inch-thick two-ply corrugated cardboard, and the AUS-8 stainless steel cut it across the grain in clean, easy strokes.

The SOG-TAC CA Auto did its due diligence as a competent everyday carry. It did an excellent job of taking off against-the-grain slices of thick corrugated cardboard.

I have medium-size mitts and the SOG-TAC CA handle left about a 3/4-inch deficit in padding on my lower palm. I let my girlfriend try it and it fits her hand just as the larger-size SOG-TAC fits mine. In fact, she said she wants one!

SOG-TACCA Auto Crimson
BLADE LENGTH:1.9”
BLADE STEEL:AUS-8 stainless
BLADE PATTERN:Trailing point
HANDLE MATERIAL:Anodized aluminum
SPECIAL FEATURE:Push-button release/safety
POCKET CLIP:Blade-tip-up carry
WEIGHT:2.5 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH:3.75”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:China parts/U.S.assembly
MSRP:$129.95

 

BIG and BLUE: The Steel Will Scylla Blue

The Steel Will Scylla Blue is a full-size linerlock folder with an interesting twist: it has a top flipper as opposed to the typical side-winder on most folders with thumb studs. The knife features a vibrant, curvaceous handle with a fine fabric texture to enhance grip. A kidney-shaped lanyard hole is designed into the curved base and on the back slab is a blade-tip-up pocket clip.

Steel Will’s Scylla Blue has a deeply ground blade ready made for carving wood. Starting with fine slivers the author moved up the ladder to take off large curls, ending with a nice pile of fire starter.

Top flippers take some getting used to, but like anything else practice makes perfect. Rather than pushing the thumb stud out,  the thumb pad or side of the thumb rotates the stud up and over the top of the handle until the blade locks.

The Steel Will Scylla Blue has a top flipper that, once mastered, opens in just a flick by rolling the thumb stud over the upper handle. Here the author uses the right side of his thumb to do the opening chores, though the thumb pad will work just as well.

I tested the Scylla Blue’s deeply ground blade on boxwood. Starting with short slivers of tinder and moving up to long curls, I had a nice pile of fire starter before long. The edge did its job well aided by a comfortable handle grip that fit my palm nicely. If you can master the top flipper, you’ll like the Steel Will Scylla Blue.

Steel Will Scylla Blue
BLADE LENGTH:3.25”
BLADE MATERIAL:D2 tool steel
BLADE FINISH:Stonewashed black
BLADE PATTERN:Drop point
HANDLE MATERIAL:Blue G-10
ACTION & LOCK:Top flipper and linerlock
LINERS:Stainless steel
POCKET CLIP:Blade-tip-up carry
WEIGHT:4.42 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH:4.5”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:China
MSRP:$69.99

This article is from the January 2021 Issue BLADE Magazine. Subscribe to a year of Blade Magazine for just $19.99 by clicking here.

Three Blades with an East Asian Design Flair

Three blades with an Eastern design flair are zesty cutters

For many decades Asian knives, tools and swords languished in the cutlery industry, remembered most for blades brought back by U.S. service personnel who fought in the Pacific during World War II. Times have certainly changed, thanks in no small part to a highly accomplished custom knifemaker named Bob Lum.

Of Asian descent, Lum introduced the custom knife world to his “American” version of the Japanese tanto and leaf-shaped blades circa 1980. Through the balance of the ’80s, and later in the ’90s, Lum’s tanto design was rabidly embraced by a budding modern tactical knife crowd. The tanto has been a mainstay ever since. Other Asian blade styles, such as the bolo and kukri, have been embraced as well. My team and I look at three modern takes on the “Asian Equation” here and put these intriguing cutters through the paces.

CHAMP CHOPPER: Spyderco Lum Darn Dao

source: knifecenter.com

Designed by Lum before he passed away way too early in 2007, the Spyderco Lum Darn Dao is a full-tang Chinese dao-style knife. Overall length: 16.27 inches. The 10.63-inch blade is CPM 154 stainless steel with a flared tip and a swedge grind terminating at the clip on the spine. The 5.64-inch handle has a flared base and the black G-10 scales are ample, fully sculpted and highly polished. A handcrafted dark brown leather sheath with a thumb-break retention loop comes standard. Weight (minus the sheath): 17.89 ounces. MSRP: $649.95. This is a limited edition of one production run only.

The first thing we noticed about the Lum Darn Dao is that it’s not as cumbersome as it initially looks, and then we realized it’s just shy of 18 ounces, which is not that unwieldy as large knives go. The handle is an exercise in comfort—well sculpted all the way around.

The Lum Darn Dao has a deep V-grind, making it an excellent slicer. Sisal rope was a piece of cake. Full grinds like that of the Darn Dao slice and chop well, as the edge doesn’t encounter the hump of a ricasso when it goes about its work.

One inch seemed to be the Darn Dao’s magic number. Employing a basic hammer grip, we used the blade to cut through 1-inch sisal rope like it was butter. When we challenged it on an old phone book (remember those?) with diagonal full-force chops, it repeatedly sunk in an inch deep. For long-term use we’d opt for a rougher finish or texture on the G-10 grip, but all in all the Darn Dao chopped like a champ. 

Specs: SPYDERCO LUM DARN DAO
Blade length: 10.63 inches
Blade steel: CPM 154 stainless
Handle length: 5.64 inches
Handle material: Sculpted G-10
Sheath: Leather belt carry
Weight: 17.89 ounces
Overall length: 16.27 inches
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $649.95

SHORT, WIDE HYBRID: SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout

SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout is a mid-size folder 7.375 inches open and 4.3 inches closed. Designed by custom knifemaker Kiku Matsuda of Japan, the 3-inch black-coated blade of CTS-XHP stainless steel is a hybrid of the tanto style with some interesting twists. The main grind is recurved and there is a swedge grind on the spine that ends in a harpoon dip. The blade opens via a kidney-shaped hole in the blade or by an optional gimped flipper. The black handle has sculpted G-10 scales over black stainless steel liners, and SOG’s XR pull-down slide release unlocks the blade. On the rear is a blade-tip-up pocket clip. Weight: 5.19 ounces. MSRP: $189.95.

 

SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout has a hybrid version of the American tanto blade. The recurved portion of the main grind does a great job trapping leather and rope, and the tip finishes the job as it is pulled through.

The Kiku XR Blackout’s blade is shorter and wider than the traditional tanto pattern. We tested it first on 1.5-inch-wide harness leather, executing straight cuts and pull-throughs. The modified edge cut very well, though we almost ran out of blade while pulling upward through the leather strip.

Rope was much easier. The recurve of the blade trapped the rope, and the secondary grind from the dividing line—or yokoke—to the tip finished the job. It should be noted not all tantos have a yokoke; some simply sweep through upward to the tip. The cuts on 3/8-inch rappelling rope were clean as a whistle, while the edge tended to shred thicker 1-inch sisal. The handle was plenty comfortable and added to our cutting pleasure.

SPECS: SOG KIKU XR BLACKOUT
Blade length: 3 inches
Blade steel: CTS XHP stainless
Blade type: Hybrid American tanto
Handle material: Sculpted G-10
Special features: Multiple blade grinds
Carry: Pocket clip, blade tip upWeight: 5.19 ounces
Closed length: 4.375 inches
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $210.95

2-HAND HOSS: The TOPS CUMA Kage

photo source: knifecenter.com

The TOPS CUMA Kage is a tour de force by martial arts guru Sijo Wayson Johnny Tsai. Overall length: 23.75 inches. The 15.5-inch blade of 1095 high carbon steel sports TOPS’ Black Traction Coating. The lengthy handle is 8.25 inches with Micarta scales sized for two-handed delivery. The blade is a hybrid straight sword pattern blended with 7 inches of kukri bulge at the tip to give it a bit of utility to go with its, ahem, badassery. It includes a full-length black Kydex sheath with a dangler/attachment ring. Weight: 31.5 ounces. MSRP: $360.

Using one hand or two, the author found the CUMA Kage cut brush equally well. However, as you might expect, you can take on much heavier tasks with it by using both hands.

To test the CUMA Kage for its utility billing, we took it outside for brush-clearing duty. We’ve always admired the kukri and have cleared an acre or two over the years with one, so this long send-up of the chopper intrigued me. We found out quickly we could use the CUMA Kage with one hand or two, which gives it a big leg up on its smaller cousin. The Micarta handle is well filled out and plenty grippy. One-handed we were able to easily whack through half-inch-thick green hardwood stalks and branches. Two-handed we sliced through stalks three-quarter of an inch with ease, and 1 inch as long as we had clearance to pull back for a full stroke. Though not the CUMA Kage’s original intent, it does have formidable utility.

 

Specs: TOPS CUMA KAGE
Blade length: 15.5 inches
Blade material: 1095 carbon steel
Blade finish: Black Traction Coating
Handle length: 8.25 inches
Handle material: Micarta
Special features: Kukri blade tip 
Sheath: Kydex w/leather dangler
Weight: 31.5 ounces
Overall length: 23.75 inches
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $360

MELONIOUS ASSAULT

After testing the blades on a variety of fare, just for fun we took to the backyard to let them each have a go at a cantaloupe. Leading off with a reverse grip on the SOG Kiku XR, we stabbed the forlorn melon to the hilt. As stubby a version of the tanto as the Kiku XR’s blade may be, the cantaloupe’s pithy skin gave into the knife’s wishes quite easily.

Next up the TOPS CUMA Kage tried the task of halving the cantaloupe in one fell swoop, which we captured in burst mode on my neighbor’s IPhone. Mission accomplished. Finally, we used the Lum Darn Dao to “prepare the meal” by using the blade in quick, rapid-fire chops. The sword’s deep V-grind—not unlike that of a chef’s knife—performed admirably.

Like an oversized chef’s knife, the Lum Darn Dao deftly whacked the cantaloupe into chunks with speed and style.

BEASTS of the EAST

While we often think of knives and swords of an Asian design in the context of combat and martial arts, it’s easy to forget that many Eastern blades were used for everyday utility as well. The tanto was an everyday carry by the Samurai class in Japan, and men and women alike carried a smaller version, the kaiken, aka kwaiken. The chisel grind was not typical on tantos as we see on some of them today, but on knives for culinary purposes. The Japanese kiridashi, which is rapidly gaining a toehold in the cutlery world, was also chisel ground and used for wood carving and marking.

The wicked Indian/Nepalese Kukri was employed in combat, but is primarily a tool for clearing land and is used widely for bush whacking today. Even the Indonesian karambit was considered a working knife by its users. If nothing else, the distinctiveness of Asian cutlery design has added richly to our knowledge base of cutlery and given us a plethora of modern-day knives to explore.

We Test 4 Small Choppers Priced $32-$450

0
 

SMALL HATCHETS, HAWKS AND AXES ARE LIGHTWEIGHT AND VERSATILE

Four small, packable “hack-its” are convenient and can defy their size in terms of performance. Clockwise from top: Camillus/Western Blackriver Long Hatchet, Winkler Hunter Axe LT, Boker Plus Escape Hawk and A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe.

By Pat Covert

They’re small choppers that go by the names of hatchets, hawks and axes, so for simplicity’s sake let’s lump them into a group and call them hack-its, because that’s what they do for the most part. They hack.

The small choppers separate themselves from their bigger siblings largely because they are much more portable. Let’s take a look at four of the pint-size hack-its—all under a foot long—and explore their usefulness.

I tested each one on a variety of woods both hard and so, including the dreaded 6-inch privet log I use to gauge a chopper’s ability to bite into tough, seasoned materials. I also used the hack-its to cut 3/8-inch synthetic rope because if they will chop it, they’ll also cut the skin of meat and vegetables.

The weight of the chopper’s head and its placement on the handle makes a difference in its “bite-ability.” A big reason the Russell Pocket Safety Axe (left) bit into the privet log so well is because the hack-it simply has more weight at the point of attack.

A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe

With much of its overall weight in the head, this is a very top-heavy hatchet—which can work to its advantage. Photo from agrussell.com

The A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe is a Marble’s design from circa the early 20th century. Marble took a small hatchet, 10.6 inches overall, and designed a fold-out metal shield in the handle to cover the bit in lieu of a sheath. Simply ingenious.  The A.G. Russell version has a 4.5-inch 1070 spring steel head with a 2.4- inch cutting edge, and a typical old-school hammering base at the rear.  The head has a distinctive three-slot mounting system Marble deemed superior to the standard oval style.  The 8.8 inch handle is hickory and the whole kit and caboodle weighs 1 pound. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $79.95.

The fold-out blade shield of the Russell Pocket Safety Axe is pure wizardry, especially considering the design is well over 100 years old. You won’t be caught saying “Where did I put the sheath?” with this one.

With much of its overall weight in the head, this is a very top-heavy hatchet—which can work to its advantage. In the bite test on the privet log, the Pocket Safety Axe finished first simply because the business end has a lot more weight (see the side-by-side comparison image on head thicknesses). Consequently, it chopped each test material well.

The bite of the A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe proved to be exceptional. The traditional, top-heavy hack-it took to the dreaded 6-inch privet log with gusto, sinking its teeth into the seasoned hardwood surprisingly well.

The fold-out bit shield has pluses and minuses. On the upside, it’s very convenient and there’s no sheath to keep up with. On the other hand, you have to pack it since there’s no belt-sheath option. Also, you’ll want to wear gloves for extended use, as the hinge mechanism in the handle can dig into the inner  fingers. All in all, though, the Pocket Safety Axe is a stellar performer.

SPEC CHECK: A.G. RUSSELL POCKET SAFETY AXE
CUTTING EDGE:
2.4”
BLADE MATERIAL: 1070 spring steel
HEAD WIDTH: 4.5”
HEAD THICKNESS: .7” at the thickest
BLADE COATING: None
HANDLE MATERIAL: Hickory
SPECIAL FEATURES: Metal blade cover in handle
CARRY: Pocket or pack
WEIGHT: 16 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 10.6”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Taiwan
MSRP: $79.95

Boker Plus Escape Hawk

The Boker Escape Hawk is a hawk that thinks it’s a hatchet. Photo from knifecenter.com

Designed by Australian knifemaker/ designer Peter Fegan, the Boker Plus Escape Hawk is tactical in design. Hawks are primarily used for breaching and combat but can full other chores as well. Only 9 inches overall, the Escape Hawk has a 4.75-inch head of quarter inch-thick SK5 tool steel and a 2.56- inch cutting edge.  The head has enough beard to be used for carving, and the curved 7-inch handle is adorned with nicely sculpted, diagonally grooved FRN ( berglass-reinforced nylon) scales.  The butt can be used for hammering.  The steel is protected throughout with a powder coat. A dual-strap Kydex sheath covers the head. MSRP: $189.95.

The Boker Plus Escape Hawk is a hatchet in disguise. The small hack-it’s 2.56-inch SK5 tool steel bit chopped rope in nice, clean lops, and hacked off nice-sized cedar tinder chips with ease.

Due to its small size, you won’t be doing much breaching with the Boker Escape Hawk, but the pint-sized hack proved its worth. The SK5 steel had plenty of hack, chopping rope in nice, clean cuts, and knocking out chunks of seasoned cedar for tinder. Though the bearded bit can be used for carving, the inward slant of the handle mounting to the head impedes its effectiveness for the purpose a tad. The handle has full-length scales—a bonus for freedom of grip—and the diagonal grooves afforded it the best purchase of the bunch. The Boker Escape Hawk is a hawk that thinks it’s a hatchet.

 

SPEC CHECK: BOKER PLUS ESCAPE HAWK
CUTTING EDGE:
2.56”
BLADE MATERIAL: SK5 tool steel
HEAD WIDTH: 4.75”
HEAD THICKNESS: .25”
BLADE FINISH: Powder coating
HANDLE MATERIAL: FRN
SPECIAL FEATURES: Full-length sculpted scales
CARRY: Kydex sheath
WEIGHT: 13.1 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 9”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $189.95

Camillus Western Blackriver Long Hatchet

The Blackriver will handle many chores around the camp, and the bonus firesteel and pouch on the sheath add value. Photo from Camillus.com

At 11.5 inches, the Western Blackriver Long Hatchet from Camillus is, indeed, the longest of the test hack-its. It sports a 4.5-inch-wide head with a 2.5-inch chopping edge. On the back side of the head is a gimped flat edge for hammering and a sharpened diagonal slot for cutting cord. The 9.5-inch handle has 5.25-inch black checkered rubber scales, and there is a shaving slot midway between the handle and the head. A ballistic nylon sheath with a firesteel pouch—with firesteel—is included. MSRP: $31.98.

The Western Blackriver Long Hatchet from Camillus is the batonner of the bunch. The thin bit cleaved into the tight hardwood grain like a thief in the night. Once the head was in, the final splitting was done by batonning the upper handle.

The Blackriver has the lightest head of the test group so it didn’t win the chopping wars, but its length and handle design give it a leg up on the others in some functions. The thin head is ideal for batonning, enhanced by the 4 inches of exposed steel below the bit, which can be used as a striking surface. The grip is very comfortable, the rubber scales aiding in impact absorption. The Blackriver will handle many chores around the camp, and the bonus firesteel and pouch on the sheath add value. It’s also by far the most affordable of the group.

The Camillus/Western Blackriver Long Hatchet has a pouch on its ballistic nylon sheath containing a firesteel. This is a nice added extra on a hack-it that is already able and affordable.

SPEC CHECK: CAMILLUS/WESTERN BLACKRIVER LONG HATCHET
CUTTING EDGE:
2.5”
BLADE STEEL: 420 stainless
HEAD WIDTH: 4.5”
HEAD THICKNESS: .2”
BLADE COATING: Titanium bonded
HANDLE MATERIAL: Rubber
SPECIAL FEATURES: Firesteel included
CARRY: Ballistic nylon belt sheath
WEIGHT: 17 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 11.5”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $31.98

Winkler Hunter Axe LT

The price is high but the Winkler is as close to a custom as you’ll get—plus, the sheath is a marvel in itself. Photo from WinklerKnives.com. 

At only 9 inches long, the Winkler Hunter Axe LT is a small hack-it, but packs a full 19 ounces of weight—and that’s with a skeletonized handle tang. The Hunter Axe LT has a 3.5-inch-wide, bearded 80CrV2 carbon steel head with 2 inches of cutting edge, and there’s a hammering base out back. The steel thickness is a healthy .25 inch and is coated head to toe in Caswell black oxide. The scales are full-length, highly attractive curly maple. A padded Kydex sheath with nylon belt loops covers the head, and employs a shock-cord retention system for a quick draw. MSRP: $450.

The Winkler Hunter Axe LT turned out to be the best carver of the bunch due in no small part to the handle’s position in relation to the head and beard. The hand- some curly maple handle is comfortable to boot.

The Hunter Axe LT may be short but at 19 ounces is the heaviest of the test hack-its—a full 2 ounces more than its nearest rival. The LT almost won the bite contest but didn’t due in part to its weight being more equally distributed than the top-heavy Russell Pocket Safety Axe. The 80CrV2 steel chops extremely well and the Caswell finish is very tough. Though not a carving axe per se, the LT was our best candidate for the chore and would have performed even better with a lower grind angle on the lead edge. The price is high but the Winkler is as close to a custom as you’ll get—plus, the sheath is a marvel in itself.

SPEC CHECK: WINKLER HUNTER AXE LT 
CUTTING EDGE:
2”
BLADE MATERIAL: 80CrV2 carbon steel
HEAD WIDTH: 3.5”
HEAD THICKNESS: .28”
BLADE COATING: Caswell black oxide
HANDLE MATERIAL: Curly maple
SPECIAL FEATURES: Skeletonized handle
CARRY: Kydex belt sheath w/tension release
WEIGHT: 19 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 9”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $450

The Winkler Hunter Axe LT’s Kydex sheath has a bungee-style tension cord for quickly releasing the axe from its housing. The sheath as a whole is very well made—a Daniel Winkler trademark.

HAPPY HACKING!

Packable hack-its are limited only by their size. They are capable of building small shelters, chopping and splitting small- sized firewood, cutting rope to size, and a myriad of other small chores around the camp. When buying a small, packable chopper like one of these, first define your intended use for it. As you can see by the test bunch, each has its strong suits, and MSRPs vary widely. Choose wisely and happy hacking!

4 New Karambits That Are Very Different

WELCOME TO THE BRAVE NEW WORLD OF THE KARAMBIT.

The latest karambits come in an assortment of sizes, shapes, blade patterns, materials, fixed blades and folders, and price ranges. Whether for utility, self-defense or what have you, today’s karambits are ahead of the curve. In fact, some have even eschewed the traditional curved blade cent of that of a Japanese kiridashi, and is for a variety of patterns.

In other words, today’s versions of the knives with the ring in the handle butt have that unfamiliar ring to them.

The karambit traces its roots to Indonesia, where it was first used in agricultural chores such as cutting rice. The original was much larger, but it began to be scaled down as its prowess in self-defense became more prominent. Most, though not all, karambits have the familiar safety ring at the base. They come in both fixed-blade and folder options and, to many users, are just as much for EDC as self-defense.

Karambits typically have a hawkbill blade, but you can’t tell by looking at our featured foursome. Manufacturers have diversified the knives’ blade shapes recently, thus offering something different in order to gain an edge over the competition. My team tested the four blades for cutting performance and tactile characteristics using the two main karambit grips: reverse, which is the main one for combat, and forward, which is more utilitarian.

It should be noted that karambits can be hazardous if you try spinning them as is often portrayed in YouTube videos. I spoke with two prominent edged-weapons combat trainers about spinning the knife. They both affirmed that the practice is useless in combat and is primarily used to perform tricks. Whatever the case, if you use a karambit for self-defense, it’s highly recommended that you seek professional instruction and start off with plastic or rubber training iterations of the knife.

NO LIGHTWEIGHT: The Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops

Image from KnifeCenter.com

At $24.99, the Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops is by far the most affordable knife of the group. The design is clean and includes a harpoon modification on the spine of the hawkbill blade. At 7.875 inches overall it’s a large folder and also the heaviest (6.1 ounces) of the quartet. The liners are stainless steel. The safety ring is centered at the base. The blade angle is moderately aggressive, allowing the tip to lead when making cuts in the reverse grip. There’s a lot of handle to hold.

Uses for hawkbill blades include cutting carpet and linoleum, and pruning. I took the Extreme Ops to task on straight slices through some stiff, dried-out linoleum and it did an admirable job. Though it took three or four slices using a triangle as a guide, none of the test models made it through the material any quicker.

Due to its size, the Extreme Ops isnot for those with small hands, and it’s a heavy carry in the pocket. The only design flaw I found was in the safety ring, which is actually two thin rings that come off the steel liners. These can cut into the fingers with extended use. I’d like to see a solid spacer fill the gap between the rings. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): $24.99.

Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops Specs
KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3 inches
BLADE STEEL: 400 stainless
BLADE PATTERN: Modified hawkbill
HANDLE MATERIAL: Black G-10
LOCK: Linerlock
KNIFE TO KNOW: Offset safety ring
CARRY: Pocket clip, tip up
WEIGHT: 6.1 ounces
OPEN LENGTH: 7.875 inches
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.875 inches
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $24.99

MIXED BREED: The TOPS Knives Poker

Image from TOPS Knives

The Poker from TOPS Knives is a mixed-breed karambit. Designed by the company’s marketing director, Craig Powell, the Poker combines a karambit handle with a straight-edge, double- ground-blade hybrid. Reminiscent of that of a Japanese kiridashi, the blade sports TOPS’ Acid Rain finish. The sculpted handle scales terminate at a centered safety ring and the sheath is multi-positional.

A small fixed blade, the Poker is ideal for everyday carry as a neck or belt knife. There’s no angle to the wharncliffe blade—it comes straight off the handle— so, for self-defense using the knife, you’d want to train specifically with a wharncliffe pattern. Wharncliffes are great, all-around workhorse blades that excel at stripping wire, carving wood and making straight cuts.

The Poker is small, easy to conceal* and ideal for those with smaller hands. It did a good job removing strips of corrugated board, and even surprised me a bit because of its ability to cut easily through 3/8-inch synthetic rope. The blade has a lot of gumption! MSRP: $95.

TOPS Knives Poker Specs
KNIFE TYPE: Fixed blade
BLADE LENGTH: 2.5 inches
BLADE STEEL: 1095 carbon
BLADE PATTERN: Wharncliffe
HANDLE MATERIAL: Tan or black canvas Micarta®
WEIGHT: 3.6 ounces
OVERALL LENGTH: 6.88 inches
KNIFE TO KNOW: The blade is somewhat reminiscent of that of a Japanese kiridashi
CARRY: Black Kydex w/belt loop
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $120

LEAN & UPSCALE: The RMJ Tactical Korbin

Image from RMJ Tactical

The Korbin fixed blade from RMJ Tactical is easily the most upscale of the test group. The knife has an imposing look thanks to its deep, forward-canted hawkbill blade. Gimping at the blade’s base enhances purchase. The scales have an attractive grooved pattern, and the safety ring is radically offset toward the front of the handle. The sheath includes soft loops.

The knife is a medium-sized karambit with a thin handle. Some prefer a slim profile because gripping it is more like balling a fist, with the index finger keeping the blade stable. I have medium- sized hands, so I found it comfortable and to my liking.

I cut linoleum with the tip and 3-inch rope with the curved edge. I found the Nitro-V stainless blade steel exceptional. I even did a little pruning—a hawkbill favorite. All in all, the knife lived up to its higher price tag. MSRP: $190.

The RMJ Tactical Korbin performs all the functions you’d expect from a hawkbill blade, including pruning shrubs. “If you don’t mind spending a bit more,” the author wrote, “it is well worth the price.”

RMJ Tactical Korbin Specs
KNIFE TYPE: Fixed blade
BLADE LENGTH: 2.875 inches
BLADE STEEL: Nitro-V stainless
BLADE FINISH: Cerakote®
BLADE PATTERN: Hawkbill
HANDLE MATERIAL: G-10
HANDLE LENGTH: 4.25 inches
KNIFE TO KNOW: Offset safety ring
WEIGHT: 2.9 ounces
OVERALL LENGTH: 6.125 inches
CARRY: Kydex 2-way belt sheath
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $190

CORVETTE OF CUT? The Boker Wildcat XL

Image from Boker USA

The Boker Wildcat XL Karambit Flipper is the longest (8.5 inches open) in the review stable and has a flipper opener. A Boris Manasherov design, the knife has curves all over—from the handle to the recurve blade—that would make a Corvette blush!

Stainless liners contain a linerlock and the scales flow into a centered safety ring. You can deploy the blade via an elongated, bean-shaped slot on the ricasso. The handle curves make for a very comfortable grip. Since the XL is huge, some might prefer the standard, 7.4-inch Wildcat model. The blade is atypical, though again, it’s not uncommon to find a wide range of blades among the latest karambits.

The Wildcat did a great job cutting rope—surprisingly so in push cuts using the blade’s curved front section. I also found it great at slicing grilled sausage Use your imagination with this blade— it’s definitely different. MSRP: $149.95.

Boker Wildcat XL
KNIFE TYPE: Flipper folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3.375 inches
BLADE MATERIAL: D2 tool steel
BLADE PATTERN: Recurve
HANDLE MATERIAL: Black G-10
LOCK: Linerlock
CARRY: Pocket clip, tip down
WEIGHT: 5 ounces
OPEN LENGTH: 8.5 inches
CLOSED LENGTH: 5.125 inches
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $149.95

WIDE SELECTION

There are a couple of prime factors to consider when buying a karambit. First, get one compatible with your hand size. If it’s too large or too small, it won’t serve you well. Second, choose a blade that suits your purposes in both style and angle. Some are better at EDC, while others are meant for self-defense. Whichever your choice, given the competitiveness in the market, you’ll encounter no trouble with selection.

*Be sure to check and conform to laws concerning concealed carry that apply to the areas in which you carry your knife.

Advertisement

Must Read Articles

Read this before you make a knife

Knifemaking 101 – Read This Before You Make a Knife

  by Wayne Goddard My experience has taught me that there's nothing like digging in and getting started. I've often said the hardest part of the...
how to forge damascus steel

How to Forge Damascus

Advertisement
Advertisement