Here are BLADE Magazine’s Featured Knives of the Week. Browse through these articles to find the best knives available from both custom knifemakers and factory knives.
If You Can Only Have One Knife In The Kitchen, The Chef’s Knife Is The One To Get.
When it comes to knives in the kitchen the alpha and the omega, without question, is the chef’s knife. A quality chef’s knife can do just about everything from butchering a side of beef and dicing up vegetables to crushing garlic and skinning a salmon filet.
Whether Japanese or German, stainless or high-carbon, forged or stamped, there are an amazing variety of chef’s knives available today, and there will be one at the right price for you.
History Of The Chef’s Knife
Humans, and their ancestors, have been eating hunted meats and foraged fruits for millions of years. The first predecessor of the chef’s knife, in the most liberal sense of the term, dates back 2.5-million years to what is now Ethiopia. Known as Oldowan knives, these sharp stone pieces were made by smashing rocks together to form fragments with razor edges to cut through game.
The first proto-knife found with protein residue on it dates back 250,000 years and was discovered in the Azraq Oasis in Jordan. It had the residue of horse, cow, and rhinoceros on it.
As time progressed, knives evolved along with humans. The discovery of fire along with different types of metals allowed the creation of the earliest forged pieces. The bronze and iron ages saw more quality metals turned into knives by skilled artisans.
Each new material allowed for better, more durable knives and paved the way for the steel models we have today. Chef’s knives, as we know them now, have been found dating back to before the Roman Empire and were modified versions of swords and other weapons.
Why Should I Buy A Chef’s Knife?
Look, if you want to try and cut through a medium-rare ribeye or slice veggies with a standard butter knife, good luck.
A quality chef’s knife will make your life in the kitchen much easier than if you tried to force it with a standard dinner knife. Will the chef knife be more money? Absolutely, but, as you’ll see with our list, it’s incredibly easy to find a strong, capable model without breaking the bank.
So you should have a chef’s knife in the same way you should have proper running shoes if you are a marathoner or a good driver if you golf. You could do those things without the right equipment, but it’s much easier and enjoyable when you have the right tools for the job.
5 Best Chef’s Knives
Chef’s knives, Japanese or German, should make you feel comfortable and secure in the kitchen, as well as make work there easier. This list has a little of everything from pro-quality damascus blades, to stamped models strong enough to be an everyday workhorse.
Misen Chef’s Knife
Misen Chef’s Knife
Award-winning cookbook author J. Kenji Lopez-Alt called this knife “the holy grail of inexpensive chef’s knives.” The 8-inch blade is made from Aichi AUS-10 high-carbon stainless steel, is ground to a 15-degree edge, and has a 58 HRC.
The sloped bolster and handle design encourages a safe grip while chopping. It’s light in the hand at only 8 ounces in weight and can mince herbs and cut through chicken bones just as easily.
An added bonus is that there are four choices for the handle color (blue, red, gray, and black). For a budget knife, this piece from Misen really is about as good as it gets.
MSRP: $65
Wusthof Classic Ikon 8-Inch Chef’s Knife
Wusthof Classic Ikon 8-Inch Chef’s Knife
An icon of German engineering, Wusthof has been making knives in Solingen, Germany since 1814. The Classic Ikon is a timeless all-around blade that makes an excellent addition to your home, while also having the chops to cut it (pun intended) in a professional kitchen.
The forged blade is triple-riveted to the black synthetic handle and has a 58 HRC. The half bolster cuts down on weight while also making it easier to sharpen. When you buy a Wusthof you can trust in the two centuries of work that has built the company into what it is today, and this model won’t disappoint.
MSRP: $200
Mac Knife Pro Series 8-Inch Chef’s Knife With Dimples
Mac Knife Pro Series 8-Inch Chef’s Knife With Dimples
This professional-level Japanese chef’s knife is a popular choice for chefs and home cooks alike. The 8-inch hollow-edge blade is made from alloy steel and a Pakkawood, triple-riveted handle.
What sets this knife apart from the rest on our list are the dimples on the blade. Known as a Granton edge, these dimples are more common on a Santoku knife than on a chef’s knife. Regardless, they allow for food to more easily slide off while cutting so you don’t have to deal with the frustrating task of peeling bits off the blade when you’re cutting stickier foods like potatoes or apples.
Made in Seki, Japan, the traditional home of Japanese knifemaking, Mac Knife has made something modern built with techniques developed over centuries.
MSRP: $195
Victorinox Fibrox Pro Chef’s Knife
Victorinox Fibrox Pro Chef’s Knife
The lowest-priced knife on our list punches above its weight and is a great addition to your kitchen. The price is kept down because the blade is stamped, but don’t let that fool you. This model has the same quality you would expect from everything else Victorinox offers.
The eight-inch stainless blade is married to an ergonomic, non-slip handle that feels great in the hand. Made in Switzerland along with the brand’s famous Swiss Army knives, the Fibrox Pro is easy and efficient to use. While it is listed as dishwasher safe, we recommend hand-washing and drying it as that will preserve the blade for longer.
An added bonus of the stamped blade is that this is the lightest knife on our list, coming in at just 6 ounces.
MSRP: $42.95
Miyabi Chef’s Knife
Miyabi Chef’s Knife
This is a professional knife and it looks the part. Made of 100 layers of damascus steel around a Cryodur-hardened SG2 micro-carbide steel core, it is topped off with a Masur birch handle. The damascus blade has a ridiculously hard 63 HRC and is ground to an edge between 9-12 degrees using the traditional Japanese three-stage honbazuke process. That sees the blade polished twice on custom whetstones and polished to a mirror finished on leather wheels.
This is one of the highest-quality kitchen knives on the market today. It’s also a love note to Japanese knifemaking from its tip to the end of the handle. Miyabi’s whole set of chef’s knives is of similar quality and if maintained properly, can last you a lifetime.
New Gut Hook From Templar Knife Is Built To Be Used In The Field And Commercial Settings.
The new Reagan gut hook from Templar Knife is a new, exciting edition to the hunting knife market. From a maker known for auto and OTF knives comes this fixed blade that uses a unique construction to create the best possible knife.
The blade thickness decreases as it goes from heel to tip. This allows the knife to segment a sternum as well as skin a kill. Add in the gut hook and the Reagan allows for a smooth full-cavity evisceration.
The handle’s ergonomic design and finger grooves, combined with guards on the top and bottom give you a better, more comfortable grip. You’ll have more leverage with each cut thanks to the better thumb and hand placement on the handle.
The Reagan is 8.3 ounces with a 4.6-inch blade and will be launched to the general public in September.
Few Patterns Are As Stunning And Audacious As Daggers And Fighters. These Four Makers From Around The World Show What Elite Craftsmen Are Creating Today.
Knives with attitude always have been popular among many makers and cutlery enthusiasts, and, if you’ve ever been to a BLADE Show, chances are you’ve seen some eye-popping examples. Many have in-your-face themes, with daggers and fighters getting lots of love among them.
Wardog Fighter By Samuel Lurquin
The Wardog Fighter by Samuel Lurquin includes a handsome leather pouch sheath with logo by Jeremy Guillaume, a sandblasted-then-blued blade, a tight-waisted bird’s beak handle, and a dog tag with appropriate verbiage and logo. Overall length: 12.8 inches.
If Samuel Lurquin’s Wardog Fighter looks familiar, that’s because it is—it served as one of three cover knives for the June BLADE®. However, due to space requirements, we were unable to give the knife its just due in that issue, so we correct that oversight here.
Sam is an ABS master smith from Belgium who makes bullet-proof tactical fixed blades ticketed for extreme “rough ’n tumble” use beyond the call of duty. Sam’s English is somewhat limited, so we turned to Dave Ellis, proprietor of Exquisite Knives, who specializes in upscale cutlery from around the world. Dave is California’s first ABS master smith who has since retired from hammering steel to become a purveyor of fine custom knives. Dave’s overview of the Wardog is insightful.
“Sam’s combat knife was designed to be very concealable, nothing flashy that sticks out! Twenty years discussing the needs of end users helped him design a knife to be used hard in the field,” Dave observes. “Rather than taking credit for the knife’s design, Sam instead deferred to the many experts when it came to ergonomics, concealment, and design to ultimately come up with this sleek fighter.”
The beefy clip-point blade is 7.5 inches to go with the 5.3-inch black G-10 handle.
“I asked Sam if he considered this to be the perfect combat/field knife,” Dave states. “His response was quite sincere. He said, ‘There’s never just one perfect knife.’ Use dictates the design of each piece, and this design Sam hopes is one that he could stake his own life on. This is very important to Lurquin—that if all else fails, his knife will prevail.”
Dave explained the Wardog’s finish process: “The blade was sand blasted then cold gun blued. The bluing produced a forced rusting [patina] that Sam removes with steel wool. The blade is stonewashed for the final finish, one that will stand up to hard use.”
Sam designed the thick, all leather sheath and had his friend, Jeremy Guillaume of 8 Ball Leather, make it. “It’s double welted and has double latches to keep the knife secured on many media—belts, backpacks and the like,” Dave concludes. “Sam felt that Kydex is too noisy, thus the use of leather.”
Commando Dagger By Joe Israel
Joe Israel offers his Commando Dagger with the smaller Shrike EDC knife. A big fan of the Fairbairn-Sykes dagger of World War II fame, Joe patterned the handle on that of the F-S classic. The Kydex sheaths are by Harry Savage.
One of this issue’s cover knives, Joe Israel’s Commando Dagger is born out of Joe’s intense fondness for the armed forces knives with a double edge.
“I’m inspired by all the great military daggers like the Case V-42, Fairbairn-Sykes, Gerber Mark II—these knives have always fascinated me,” he observes. “I wanted to create something both beautiful and a bit sinister which, after all, is what I think daggers are.”
Though very stylish, Joe’s knife is meant to be used.
“For the Commando Dagger, I start with 3/16-inch CPM 154 stock that I flat grind by hand and heat treat myself, including a liquid nitrogen cryo. The blade is 6 inches long and the overall length is 11 inches,” he states. “It’s then hand sanded to 3,000 grit and mirror polished.”
The blade is sharpened on both sides. If the curvaceous handle smacks of a certain famous World War II combat knife, it is purely intentional.
“I always loved the shape of the Fairbairn-Sykes handles and I try to emulate their elegant shape in my Commando Dagger,” he comments. “The knife is full tang with a brass guard that I pin and solder in place old-school style.” The scales are black linen Micarta® with blood-red G-10 liners secured with brass pins.
Joe supplies his knives with no-frills, all-business black Kydex sheaths, and also offers them in leather. “Harry Savage makes the sheaths for the daggers and he’s just great to work with,” the maker opines. “His work is always top-notch. The small knife in the picture accompanying this story is my Shrike EDC. It’s available in a variety of steels and handle materials. I offer Kydex and leather sheaths for my other knives, too.”
The Toothpick By Matthew Roberts
Matt Roberts chose ladder-pattern damascus for his Toothpick dagger because it complements the symmetrical blade profile, and the coffin-handle design for its simplicity and flowing lines.
Matthew Roberts is an ABS journeyman smith with a passion for forging.
“I modeled the Toothpick after the Gold Rush daggers and Arkansas toothpicks of the 19th century,” he explains. “I have no knowledge whatsoever of historical knives and their dimensions. I made this because it looks vicious. Utility was an afterthought for this build.
“I forged the blade from 15N20 and 80CrV2 steels,” he continues. “I chose ladder-pattern damascus because it complements the symmetrical profile. The blade geometry is very acute with a full distal taper—the point is ground to near zero.” The Toothpick has a 7.25-inch blade length and is 12 inches overall. The blade is 1.2 inches wide at the widest and has about a .165-inch maximum thickness.
Matt chose a coffin handle design for its simplicity and flowing lines. The radius of the handle profile mirrors the blade profile. The handle material is African blackwood that Matt faceted heavily.
“Blackwood seemed to be an appropriate choice because I wanted the blade to be the focus of the piece,” he notes. “Also, blackwood is a very heavy wood which helped bring the point of balance well into the handle.” The guard and spacer are 416 stainless. The spacer fluting is mirror polished.
Matt chose a simple sheath to reflect the clean lines of his dagger. “It’s buffalo hide over bridle leather,” he states. “The hide has a matte finish and is very soft.”
Coffin Dagger By Julian Sacco
Julian Sacco’s Coffin Dagger features a W2 tool steel blade made via the stock-removal method and an unusual smoky hamon he chose for an “ominous feel.” The African blackwood handle is configured in what the maker calls an “old-school-coffin” style.
Julian Sacco’s dagger redefines the word sleek—and that only begins to describe the distinctiveness of his take-down-construction Coffin Dagger.
“The inspiration for this piece came from seeing a lot of other makers do coffin-style bowie knives,” Julian relates. “I felt a shape like a coffin would fit really well on this dagger, as it’s an entirely mirrored piece all the way around. Essentially I wanted it to have an old look and feel to it and I think the coffin style fit that profile perfectly.”
The blade is ultra-slim and has a notable hamon.
“The blade is W2 tool steel and is done in the stock removal method,” he notes. “I don’t have much experience with hamons but, as per the theme of this dagger, I tried to create a smoky pattern to give it an ominous feel.” The knife has a 7-inch cutting edge and is 13 inches overall. “I wanted this to be more of a nimble and easy maneuvering piece,” Julian states, “somewhat like a stiletto dagger, but not quite.”
The grip’s modified wasp waist exudes creativity as well.
“The handle is shaped entirely to look like an old-school-style coffin, which I think it resembles quite well. I wanted to have an aggressive look to the overall construction, which is why I shaped the pommel with such sharp lines,” he remarks. “To match the guard I kept those similar shapes and lines on the outside while smoothing the areas that would be gripped in order to make it comfortable for the user. The brass pommel and guard were an excellent choice as I knew they would patina in a way that would fit the overall rustic look and feel I was going for, while the African blackwood handle complemented that look exactly how I hoped it would. It perfectly fits the profile of an old coffin with its rich lines and bold grain, tying the entire theme of the piece together.”
The Assisted-Opening Knife Is A Powerful Type Of Pocketknife Beloved By Blade Lovers Around The World. These 12 Stand Out From The Pack.
There are quite a few minor differences that separate various types of knives that are otherwise visually or externally indistinguishable. In the same vein as a sword is a sword or an axe is an axe, many people treat knives simply as a variation on a basic theme. In the case of assisted-opening knives, this has led to a great deal of confusion, and for the most part, a large amount of legal misunderstanding.
ORIGINS OF THE ASSISTED-OPENING KNIFE
The foundational designers of the assisted-opening knife modeled their mechanisms along very similar lines—mostly based on motorcycle kickstands. BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ken Onion is a well-known knife designer and was among the first to arrive at a mass-produced design.
While Onion was not the first, his basic design set the stage for what we have today. Before him, Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Blackie Collins arrived at a design that was successful. There is a distinction at this point. Some assisted openers are described as “gravity knives” or “flick knives” and this is both true and false.
Some of the first successful gravity knife designs required the user to open the mechanism and the blade would slide down without spring assistance. Flick knives are generally undefined, but in general, require a flick of the wrist to deploy the blade either out the front or from the frame.
One of the most widely issued versions of this is from the Nazi German Air Force, where most aircrews in the Luftwaffe were given a type of out-the-front gravity knife. These became popular bring-back trophies and were oftentimes miscategorized as automatic or switchblade-style knives, and as flick knives.
The original German models never had a spring inside the mechanism. If they had, they would have qualified under modern law as an out-the-front automatic. This knife does deploy extremely quickly, often as fast as a spring-loaded variant.
These incorrect terms are bundled and grouped into the broad ‘bad knife’ generalization. The mechanical function of the assisted-opening knife is to finish opening the blade, not to deploy the blade on its own. This may seem like a minor thing but it is very important legally.
IS AN ASSISTED-OPENING KNIFE REALLY A SWITCHBLADE?
A relatively confusing aspect of this topic is what exactly constitutes a knife that falls into the dubious “switchblade” category, and what is an assisted-opening mechanism. The casual observer may not notice any difference in terms of function. In most cases, it appears that the blade simply pops out on its own from the handle.
The primary difference in this is that an automatic knife is self-actuated, usually with the push of a button. A knife that operates via an assisted-opening mechanism requires a person to start the opening process before the blade actuates and finishes opening itself.
This may seem like a trivial difference, but when it comes to skirting or working around restrictive laws, there is a great deal of importance that is occupied in that slight separation. We tend to see this in many cases where even cosmetic details can determine legality.
In 2009, there was a federal effort to clearly define and limit the number of restrictions that could be placed on knives that were determined to be of the open-assist and one-hand-opening variety, as opposed to those categorized directly as switchblades. 15 US Code 1224 Exemption 5 states that:
“A knife that contains a spring, detent, or other mechanism designed to create a bias toward closure of the blade and that requires exertion applied to the blade by hand, wrist, or arm to overcome the bias toward closure to assist in opening the knife.”
In other words, this defines an assisted opener as a knife that is designed to remain closed until acted upon, whereas a switchblade could thus be assumed to be a knife that is biased to remain open unless retained. These small variations in legalese are all we have that draw a line between what constitutes a legal assisted-opening knife and something reputedly “more inherently dangerous.”
HOW DO ASSISTED-OPENING KNIVES WORK?
As mentioned above in the legal definition of an assisted opener, the preeminent design feature is that the blade remains closed under a given mechanism until a force is applied to it. The mechanism necessary for a knife to accomplish this is quite complicated.
Not only must the blade be able to interact with an internal spring, but that spring also needs to generate enough pressure on a very small rotational axis to extend it to its final position and provide the energy to bypass the locking feature. This could be a linerlock or any number of locking mechanisms.
Because there are a tremendous number of functions being asked of this mechanism, they tend to become quite intricate, and for the most part, should not be disassembled by the owner. If something goes wrong with any type of assisted-opening knife, the owner should contact the manufacturer and get it repaired at the factory. Many of these mechanisms share more in common with watches and other fine pieces of machinery than they do with other knives.
There is a wide range of variation in terms of design from company to company. As a result, you will tend to see that, while assisted-opening knives are a general category, most manufacturers prefer to put their own spin on the terminology used to describe their product.
There isn’t a functional difference between what a company calls its design and what it accomplishes. What matters at the end of the day with assisted-opening knives is that they produce the same end result preceded by meeting the legal requirement of being an assisted opener. It doesn’t really matter if the mechanism is actuated by a thumb peg, flipper tab or wrist flick, the end result is the activation of the spring override forcing the blade to lock into the open position.
The basic design of most assisted-opening knives requires the blade to be manually opened at least 1/4-1/3 of its total travel before the spring takes over and opens it the rest of the way. This can be accomplished through numerous designs. The most common relies on an internal spring in the mechanism that resides on a cam, the latter interacting with the geometry of the rear of the blade surrounding the hinge pin.
Past a certain point, the shape of the parts allows the spring-loaded cam to interact with the gradual, declining angle of the back of the blade, thus forcing it open against the tension. Of course, this is just one way to describe how this works, and individual designers and companies will work around existing patents and models to create new ways to get the job done.
ARE ASSISTED-OPENING KNIVES LEGAL ACROSS THE BOARD?
The short answer to this is, yes, and no. In some states, it matters more how you carry the knife than what type of knife you were actually carrying. Michigan, for instance, allows the open carry of most knife types, regardless of features.
When it comes to carrying concealed, there are some murky definitions. In general, if a knife is visible, at least partially, such as in a front pocket, it is considered open carry. The vast majority of states allow everyday carry for assisted-opening knives. In fact, many states also allow the carrying of automatic knives as well.
Best Assisted-Opening Knives For The Money
While assisted-opening knives may not be for everyone, they are incredibly popular and made by manufacturers around the world. These dozen show off the breadth of models available on the market today.
Kershaw Cryo II
The Cryo II is a very clean, basic carry knife that features a smooth, curved edge without separation. The knife is slab-sided without texture; it can be slippery in the hands if wet or sweaty. The framelock mechanism is very strong and should provide years of reliable service for a very modest price.
The Kershaw Barstow is a very affordable knife at a suggested retail price of under $40. It features a spearpoint blade and a black-washed finish. For being as inexpensive as it is, it is a true assisted-opening knife and affords the owner a great deal of function at a very low price. While not the highest-end model out there, this low-profile knife will be sure to please.
This attractive and very affordable knife bears the Smith & Wesson logo. Its sheepsfoot blade has a clean, straight edge. Despite its low price, this knife has a great degree of utility and is a welcome companion in the pocket or work bag. The blade profile lends itself to general work, and it shouldn’t draw attention when out in public.
The ‘Amazon Special’ is fashionable and quite affordable. The tanto-style blade comes in serrated and plain-edged varieties. For being as inexpensive as it is, it has an impressive number of features that are extremely well thought out. The handle has an anti-slip texture and is machined from durable G10. The blade pivots on ceramic ball bearings. For being a Chinese import, it punches above its class.
Moving up quite substantially in price is Benchmade’s 495 Vector. This is a symmetrical pocketknife that simply bleeds quality while being fairly low profile at the same time. If you prefer to carry a top-of-the-line design without drawing unwanted attention to yourself, this is going to be a top choice.
Another top-shelf choice from Benchmade, the Barrage has an aggressive, tactical look that features a plain-edge blade. While it certainly has that bad boy look, it is quite functional in terms of features and utility for cutting tasks at a relatively high cost compared to other assisted-opening folders. If you want top quality and want to look good doing it, this one is hard to beat.
P.S.D. stands for Particle Separation Device, and CRKT’s folder certainly lives up to the futuristic nomenclature. While the materials used in the construction of this knife are becoming more commonplace, it is hard to find them for this price point, and the PSD delivers a very nice, clean appearance for a relatively low cost. CRKT is well known for the quality and affordability of its edged tools, and the PSD is sure to be a favorite come the holidays.
The Gerber Highbrow is ambidextrous and features an easy-to-use sliding lock just under the spine next to the pivot. The edge is plain with a distinct, drop-point profile. At a price of around $50, it is affordable and makes for a good gift for that someone who is worth the extra few dollars around the holidays.
Boker Plus offers the Kihon designed in conjunction with custom knifemaker Lucas Burnley. Lucas is a hot tactical maker whose Japanese-inspired designs have garnered him worldwide acclaim.
The Kihon’s modified clip-point blade is a little over 3 inches long and made from D2 tool steel, long known for toughness and impact resistance. The blade is flat ground for exceptional cutting through a variety of media. A machined recess on the spine serves as a thumb rest to apply pressure and more control. Ambidextrous thumb studs double as the blade’s positive stop when open. A flipper tab offers quick, easy one-hand opening. Caged bearings in the pivot ensure smooth blade rotation.
The handle is a hybrid construction of a stainless steel framelock side mated with a textured OD green G-10 scale for weight reduction and grip enhancement. Gold-colored collars provide a classy visual touch to the pivot and handle screws. A large standoff is also anodized gold to match the other accents.
The lock side features a lockbar stabilizer disc to prevent blade overtravel. A neat wire pocket clip carries the closed knife blade tip up. The blade and steel lock side have a black stonewash finish for low glare and added corrosion resistance. However, the clip is not reversible for lefties. Milled-out oblong cavities in the handle’s lock side reduce weight.
The Kihon is a great EDC. The thumb rest relief helps control the blade, which provides enough length and belly to do most cutting chores. The action is smooth and predictable. Press the flipper, feel the tension load up and the blade propels to the open and locked position.
The assist mechanism performs like the Kershaw SpeedSafe originally designed by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ken Onion. If you own any SpeedSafe knives then you know how the action is, and the Kihon is very similar in feel. There are no problems with handle comfort, either. The knife is easy to hold and there are no hot spots.
MSRP: $119.95
CRKT Oxcart
You may snicker at the Oxcart moniker but once you see the knife, you will clearly understand the name. The new entry from CRKT is somewhat of a dichotomy—the handle slab and blade stock thicknesses are what you would normally find on a large, heavy-duty folder, while the Oxcart is compact and slender.
Knifemaker Robert Carter is the designer. He is the son of maker Joe Pardue and grandson of Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Mel Pardue, so the pedigree is impeccable. The modified clip-point blade is hollow ground from .16-inch-thick AUS-8 stainless steel. The blade is 3 inches, ideal for an EDC work knife. Large dual thumb studs provide purchase for rapid opening, and an extended flipper tab quickly deploys the blade. The blade rides on the Ikoma Korth Bearing System (IKBS) for ultra-smooth action.
The stainless-steel handle is .15 inches thick—about as thick as the blade. Drilled holes reduce weight and enhance aesthetics. A sturdy framelock secures the blade open with bank-vault lockup and zero play. A stabilizer prevents blade overtravel.
A large finger recess enables you to index your grip. The butt tapers to fit the heel of your palm. All handle edges are rounded for further comfort. The deep carry pocket clip positions the closed Oxcart blade tip up and is reversible for lefties. While the heavy-duty build gives the knife impressive heft at 4.7 ounces, it doesn’t weigh you down in the pocket.
As a work knife, the Oxcart shines. The hollow-ground blade bites hard and deep. It is a very efficient cutter. It’s so sharp we had to guard against nicking the wires inside the casing when stripping electrical wire. Due to the extra width of blade and handle, the Oxcart can be used hard without worry that the blade will break or the tip will snap.
One minor complaint with the compact grip: I found myself wanting a bit more to grasp when bearing down to cut through tough materials. However, it being a “compact big knife,” that would ruin the design philosophy. The assist mechanism is CRKT’s multi-wave torsion bar design that provides firm, fast action, with excellent detent closure. A semi-solid push on the flipper overcomes the detent, sending the blade to the locked position in one swift motion.
AUS-8 steel is well known in more moderately-priced knives as having a good balance of edge holding and ease of maintenance. No problems with the steel—it’s a solid performer. I also like how positive the framelock engages, so there are no worries about accidental unlocking. It’s very tight but easy to unlock when needed.
MSRP: $99.99.
Camillus Arvo
The Camillus Arvo is the most value-conscious of the test group. The 3-inch drop-point blade is made from 420 stainless in a nice satin finish. The blade is utility friendly, with a defined tip for scoring tasks and a belly for most general cutting chores.
The flipper tab extends far enough to function equally as well as a single guard. The sole method of deployment is the flipper; the blade is devoid of thumb studs or discs for a streamlined appearance.
The handle features a typical construction method for tactical folders with dual stainless liners and scales of brown linen Micarta® for strength, high rigidity and dimensional stability, regardless of the elements. The linerlock release has a series of notches for purchase with your thumb when the blade is unlocked. A heavy-duty steel clip provides deep pocket carry of the closed knife in the blade-tip-up position.
The Arvo’s price point is very affordable, which appears to have resulted in a few “oversights.” First, the scales were not finished as smooth as I would have liked. The surface had a texture like peach fuzz from the linen in the Micarta. Don’t get me wrong—having a rougher finish on Micarta isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as the rougher texture aids in grip traction. Nonetheless, the surface finish could be improved.
Second, the edges of the blade spine and flipper tab are crisp. If you are into bushcraft knives, you know that a 90-degree spine is good for striking with a ferro rod to make sparks for fire. However, a 90-degree spine in an EDC folder creates unnecessary sharp corners. Luckily, these can be easily remedied with a metal file and gently rubbing the corners to soften them.
Finally, most flipper folders have the tab with traction notches on it for purchase. The Arvo has no such notches. Otherwise, the knife is a great size for EDC and the handle design is good and comfortable. I love the integral guard formed by the front of the handle at the pivot.
The assist mechanism works very well. Again, judging by the action, I’d say it’s similar to the SpeedSafe torsion-bar type. Deploying the blade is fast and easy. The action is smooth and swift, with the blade riding on Teflon washers. There are no bearings.
The low-end 420 stainless blade steel doesn’t hold an edge nearly as long as even the mid-grade stainless steels such as AUS-8, 8Cr13MoV and VG-10. However, the tradeoff is it’s easier to resharpen. Out-of-the-box sharpness is just OK. I’ve seen better on budget knives and I’ve seen worse. When I put my own edge on it, that’s when performance improved.
At its price point, the Arvo serves well as a work knife. It’s a great alternative to Zytel-handle locking folders and you get upgraded handle material with the Micarta. The hollow grind allows the blade to slice effectively and bite into materials easier. The edge dulls quickly depending on what you’re cutting, so you might benefit from carrying some sort of compact sharpener. And if you end up losing the Arvo, you can buy another one without breaking the bank.
The only thing I found as a slight issue with this particular sample is the blade was off-center a bit when closed. Given the low price, I am more forgiving of such things. However, it has no bearing on the action or cutting performance. The lockup is firm and sure.
There’s a lot of features going for this knife for the price: Micarta handle, deep carry pocket clip, flipper tab, assisted opening and open handle spine. Many of these features are found in knives priced way higher.
MSRP: $27.99
Pro-Tech TR-5 SA
Known widely for autos, Pro-Tech offers an assisted opener with the TR-5 SA. Essentially a scaled-down version of the company’s TR-4, it has tactical styling, superior materials and a distinctive spring-assist mechanism.
The 3.25-inch blade is CPM S35VN high-performance stainless. The modified drop-point pattern has flat-ground main bevels with a swedge added for a bit of attitude. A single thumb stud helps open the knife. The blade comes in a nice stonewash finish that hides scratches and helps resist corrosion.
The handle features rounded ends and a tapered design from pivot to butt. Several large finger grooves help seat your hand securely, along with a series of traction notches following the three finger grooves.
On the handle spine, traction notches are milled into the thumb rest for a non-slip grip. The handle spacer is milled from 416 stainless and also has traction notches to enhance grip. The end of the spacer protrudes a bit at the butt, forming a skull crusher pommel.
The handle slabs are T6-6061 aluminum given a Type III hard anodized black coat for scratch resistance and aesthetics. A deep carry pocket clip presents the closed knife blade tip up. When clipped in the pocket, none of the knife protrudes above the seam.
The handle feels very comfortable and instills user confidence, with no hot spots. Pro-Tech’s high standards for manufacturing excellence carry over into its base models with plain aluminum handles such as this one. The pivot screw and lock button sport spun finishes that reflect light in a refined manner. It’s such nice little touches that set Pro-Tech apart.
The assist mechanism is different from other assisted openers. For starters, it uses the same coil-spring design that drives the company’s automatics. If you’ve handled a Pro-Tech auto, you know it has a strong spring and a nice recoil. The same goes for the TR-5 SA.
There’s an additional component to the mechanism designed by award-winning maker Matthew Lerch: an unusual spring-loaded detent that holds the blade closed. The result is a strong detent that requires a firm push of the thumb stud to overcome; from there the coil spring takes over and drives the blade open. As a result, you get the legendary Pro-Tech action for those who cannot legally buy autos. The action is indeed the fastest of the featured assisted openers and, I believe, the fastest on the market.
Fire-starter knives make sparks when you need them most.
Bushcraft skills have grown immensely in popularity in the past few years. It could be the slew of TV shows promoting survival situations or just perhaps an interest in self-sufficiency. What is true is that the knife industry is playing catch-up to the bushcrafting market, and many new products pop up that have features dedicated to keeping you alive and warm in the woods.
Fire Starting Knives
Recent years have seen an influx of knife features deemed ideal for use with another essential tool—the ferro rod striker. Ferro rods are made of ferrocerium, an alloy consisting of several base metals and magnesium. Magnesium is highly reactive and generates showers of sparks as it is scraped against steel. Think of it as a more modern version of flint. Ideally, the ferro rod is struck against a sharp, acute surface. Many people use the blade’s edge for this, though this is not recommended as dull spots can emerge quickly.
As time passed, people began sharpening the blade spines to 90 degrees, making a hard, sharp angle that is not on the cutting edge. Still, others find this feature annoying, as it is fully possible to injure your hand on a squared spine. I know because I’ve done it.
As a remedy, people started cutting in little semi-circular cutouts into the spine that still retain a square shoulder, thus allowing for safer handling when striking. Both a fully sharpened spine and the sharpened cutout are valid features; it depends on what style you prefer.
Strike the rod against the sharp corner of the blade spine to create sparks and ignite the tinder. (Mary Lou Ayres image)
The smaller cutout is really just a striking feature but the fully sharpened spine can be used for a number of other ends, most notably an easy and effective means of peeling carrots, potatoes and other root vegetables for the camp kitchen. Many top fire-making knives have sharp-angled spines and cutouts ideal for striking.
Bowdrill Divits
Some bushcraft knives have bow drill divots in the grips. No less than 10 knives I’ve tested in the past year have the feature and I’ve yet to master its use.
A bow drill is a very primitive means of starting a fire with friction. It takes about forever and even then is not a guaranteed success. In terms of time management and the amount of calories used in a survival situation, I really don’t think it is worthwhile, though it’s nice that the feature is there.
The bow drill is basically a stick you press down on while at the same time you spin it with a bow (a stick with string wrapped around it) to create an ember. The idea behind a knife with a divot on the handle is it allows you to make kindling and all the tools you need to make a basic fire. You can use the knife to make the string (plant fiber), the drilling board (piece of dry wood) and bow/drill (stick).
All three knives were tested side-by-side in equal conditions to see how well they performed in making a fire. All succeeded.
BLADE® Editor Steve Shackleford asked me to test the knives in this capacity as long as it didn’t detract from the other standard knife testing. “Skip it if it’s too much,” he stated. “I don’t want to wear you out.” However, in the spirit of making the story as detailed as possible inside the 1,500-word limit, I tried the TOPS and White River knives with the handle divots to see if I could, in fact, start a fire using the bow drill.
I was unsuccessful with both but did end up getting a fire going with a cheap bow drill kit from Amazon. No matter how you slice it, using a bow drill is just a huge pain in the keister and I’d rather stick a standard lighter in every pocket of my gear and an extra one in my boot than have to resign myself to using a bow drill.
A large reason why I really didn’t like using the divot features was that they really require you to keep the knife in the sheath. Otherwise, you’re just sitting there putting pressure on a knife with the edge floating out in space. It is easy to get into a trance while using a bow drill, and I found myself not paying attention at several points—not a safe situation.
Holding the knives in their sheaths is not very comfortable as they are hard Kydex. There was no real comfortable way to put pressure on the drill while gripping the sheath. Eventually, I gave up and decided if I ever did have to use a bow drill, I’d just find another piece of wood and carve a divot with the knife instead.
White River Knife & Tool FC-PKO
The White River FC-PKO is an end-stage tool in that it can readily start fires, the author noted, but lacks the strength and blade thickness to take down anything more than sticks.
White River Knife & Tool makes excellent knives. In fact, they are some of the most well-laid out and functional I’ve tested in my time with BLADE®. I have used the company’s larger FC7 as my main deer hunting knife in camp and have, between myself and my friends, packed out no less than 50 deer with it. I was happy to review the smaller FC-PKO, sort of a little brother to the FC7.
The FC-PKO is a modified puukko style with a Scandi grind and a ring pommel. The Kydex sheath is low profile. My initial impressions were that the knife is small, thin and razor sharp. I immediately thought it would be a perfect knife for pheasant or duck. I found it a champion at cutting tinder and kindling, but not up to larger work. The knife is an end-stage tool in that it can readily start fires, but lacks the strength and blade thickness to take down anything more than sticks. You’ll need a larger tool to actually prepare the wood prior to using the FC-PKO.
As far as fire-making ability, it is a solid performer. The knife has a small notch on the spine that ignites the ferro rod easily. The edge can trim extremely fine curls of tinder. Where I ran into problems was the ring pommel. I have large hands and long fingers, so this may not be an issue to everyone, but I found my pinky largely just floating in space. I couldn’t get comfortable with the ring. That said, it is overall a great knife that will ultimately see years of service on my belt.
White River Knife & Tool FC-PKO Specs Knife Type: Modified puukko Blade Length: 3.7” Blade Steel: CPM S35VN stainless Blade Grind: Scandi Blade at Thickest: .125” Handle Material: Micarta® w/orange liners and bow-drill divot Weight: 4.6 ozs. Overall Length: 8.1” Sheath: Black Kydex w/striker loop Striker: Included, basic rubber grip Country of Origin: U.S.A. MSRP: $200
TOPS Knives Fieldcraft
The author described the Fieldcraft as “a beast of a knife that weighs nearly a pound and is built like a tank.”
The TOPS Knives Fieldcraft by Brothers of Bushcraft is a beast of a knife that weighs nearly a pound and is built like a tank. The edge is razor sharp despite the steep grind and can split medium-size firewood easily. The handle is thick and robust and you can really get a grip on it. I find large knives like this almost too much for regular use, but this one fits into the niche of being large enough for constant use and not too big to be a burden.
The knife has a striker cut in the pommel as opposed to the blade spine. That said, you can order it with a sharpened spine if you wish. I wanted to test the base model to get an idea of what the average owner would experience. If I want to add a sharp spine, I can do so on my grinder or have TOPS do it. The pommel striker is not easy to get used to—you have to find a safe direction to point the blade, which can be difficult. That said, you can leave it in the sheath for this part—just be careful not to launch it out while striking. The cutout is effective once you get used to it.
TOPS Knives Fieldcraft Specs Knife Type: Full-size bushcrafter Blade Length: 4.75” Blade Steel: 154CM stainless Blade Grind: Modified Scandi Blade at Thickest: .19” Handle Material: Tan canvas Micarta® w/red liners and bow-drill divot Weight: 14 ozs. Overall Length: 10” Sheath: Black Kydex w/striker loop Striker: Included, basic aluminum grip Knife to Know: There are numerous other Fieldcraft models available in different materials and colors Country of Origin: U.S.A. MSRP: $295
Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife
According to the author, the Casström “has everything I like and nothing I didn’t—not too big, not too small and pleasant to look at.”
The classic-looking Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife is reminiscent of such Scandinavian knives as the puukko. It is not a traditional puukko but rather a somewhat modern take on the longstanding Nordic tradition of general-use fixed blades. Many American knives in the bushcraft world have a somewhat gritty, tactical feel and a somewhat industrial appearance. The No. 10 is not terribly exciting in looks but hides its function under a gentle exterior. It was my favorite knife in the review, which may surprise you. It has everything I like and nothing I didn’t—not too big, not too small and pleasant to look at.
The knife has a smooth grip—be careful if you’re not wearing gloves, it can get a tad slippery—and a plain, graceful blade. The angle of the spine is sharpened but not so aggressively that it would risk injury. It is not a particularly thick blade but can handle some medium-to-small splitting work if you’re careful, and makes kindling and scrapes tinder well. The knife strikes easily anywhere on the spine and offers a great deal of control. Of note, the sheath is leather and has a ferro rod with a matching green/black Micarta® grip. As a set the knife and rod look very nice together. The rod was also the easiest to hold onto thanks to it having the largest grip area.
Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife Specs Knife Type: General-purpose Scandi Blade Length: 3.75” Blade Steel: Sandvik 14C28N stainless Blade Grind: Full flat Blade at Thickest: .13” Handle Material: Green/black Micarta® w/black liners Weight: 5.75 ozs. Overall Length: 8.6” Sheath: Black leather w/striker loop Striker: Included, matching green/black Micarta handle Knife to Know: According to the author, the knife has the most user-friendly sheath of the test bunch Country of Origin: Sweden MSRP: Approximately $200
Fire Starter Knife Final Cut
Starting a fire can be a challenge, especially in adverse conditions. Considering just how cheap common lighters and survival matches are, knives like the ones in this article should probably not be your primary means of starting a fire in an emergency. These knives are capable tools that provide a level of redundancy to your kit in some very good, non-obtrusive ways. The base-level skills needed to start a fire can be obtained with each of these knives with relative ease, but you will still need to make sure to have the skills necessary to maintain a fire in the wilderness.
Always be sure that you are not making a bad situation worse with fire, and make sure you’re not using a knife under less-than-ideal conditions. If you have a lighter or matches, use them first, especially in the dark.
The Knife Sharpener Is An Excellent Tool To Have In Your Kitchen. No Matter The Model, They Are Easy To Use And Can Help Revive Your Knives.
I cook daily. I enjoy it. It decompresses me, and I’m able to provide my wife and me with a lovely meal to end our day together. Nothing makes cooking harder than a dull knife.
Beyond increasing the difficulty of easy tasks, dull knives are incredibly unsafe and can cause serious injuries in the kitchen. Knowing how to use a kitchen sharpener can keep your knives like new and, best of all, take just a few minutes to use.
How To Use A Pull Through Knife Sharpener
Pull-Through kitchen knife sharpeners come in a variety of prices ranging from $10 all the way up to $100. Regardless of how expensive your sharpener is, they all work in similar ways by removing a small amount of material to renew a knife’s edge.
To show you how to sharpen your knives in numbered easy steps, I pulled out my small sharpener–a Goodcook–I picked up at my local supermarket.
Step 1: Safely Secure The Sharpener To The Surface
My trusty knife sharpener
Yes, it seems straightforward, but always remember to safely secure your knife sharpener to the surface you plan to use. I did this on my dining room table, but a counter or stovetop works just as well.
Some higher-end models may come with a vise, but the majority, like mine, are secured by firmly holding the end of it down onto the surface. The underside of my sharpener came with a channel in it so you could secure it against the edge of a table. This is meant to keep the knife away from you when you pull it through the sharpening stones.
Channel underneath the sharpener for edge use.
Step 2: Pull Your Knife Through The Coarse Side Of The Sharpener
Your sharpener will, at a minimum, have a coarse and fine setting. Start by pulling your blade through the coarse side first. This will remove more material from the edge and get rid of any bigger burrs or imperfections in the knife.
Put light pressure on the knife and gently pull it through. I chose to do three passes, but you can do however many you like. The little bump at the end of each pull is the knife tapping into the base of the sharpener.
Step 3: Do The Same On The Fine Side Of The Sharpener
The fine side is good for refining the edge of the blade and bringing it back to a razor’s edge. You’ll notice that it sounds different as you pull the knife through. I also pulled my paring knife through it three times.
And in three easy steps, in less than two minutes, you’ve sharpened a knife. I try to hone my knives multiple times a week and sharpen them monthly or every other month. By investing just a few minutes at a time into caring for your knives, you’ll extend their life and keep them cutting like new for years to come.
How To Use A Whetstone To Sharpen A Knife
Another, more traditional way of sharpening knives, is with a whetstone. These stones allow you to precisely control what part of your knife is being sharpened and how much material gets removed from your blade. Below are the steps to follow to successfully sharpen your knives on a whetstone.
Step 1: Gather Your Supplies
This means getting your stone, a moderately deep container like a baking dish, deep bowl, or a bucket to soak the stone in water, your knives, a towel to dry them off, and a spoon or small cup to scoop water onto the stone.
Step 2: Soak The Stone
When you place your stone into your container it should be fully submerged under water. You’ll see bubbles start to come up. That’s air getting forced out of the stone. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes or until the bubbles disappear. That’s the sign that your stone is ready to use.
Step 3: Secure Your Stone
Most stones come with a holder. Always use that if available. If there is no holder, a towel wrapped around the base of the stone will work. You always want the stone secured. At best, it could scratch your tabletop if it slides, and at worst you could slice yourself from a knife coming off a sliding stone.
Step 4: Sharpen On The Course Side
The majority of whetstones you can buy online or in stores today will have two sides, one coarse and one fine. The lower the grit number, the more coarse. This means that more material will come off with each pass of the knife.
It’s best to start sharpening your knives on that side. Get your blade to an angle between 20-25 degrees and pass it back and forth against the stone 10-15 times on each side of the blade.
If a dry spot starts appearing on your stone, use your spoon or small cup to pour a little bit of extra water onto the spot to re-wet it.
Step 5: Sharpen On The Fine Side
Now that you’ve removed most of the egregious burrs and nicks from the edge turn your stone over and sharpen the blade against the fine side. This will finish and polish the edge back to razor quality and have your knife like new again.
Again, you’ll stroke the blade 10-15 times at 20-25 degrees, then check the blade for sharpness.
Popular Youtuber, and New York Times bestselling author, Joshua Weissman gives a simple but in-depth tutorial on how to use a whetstone to revive your knives and bring back a razor edge.
How To Use An Electric Sharpener
A more intense version of the handheld kitchen knife sharpener is the electric sharpener. More pricey than a handheld device, electric sharpeners use different types of grinding stones powered by a motor to grind away material and sharpen your knives.
Some models have a single slot where the user will need to toggle between fine and coarse grit stones. Others have multiple stages and multiple stones allowing for more precise sharpening. Regardless of the type of electric sharpener, they operate similarly.
Step 1: Place The Sharpener On A Solid Surface
Always make sure your sharpener is on a table or countertop. Never hold it in your hand while pulling your knives through. That’s a quick way to wind up on your local news for all the wrong reasons.
Step 2: Read Your Sharpener’s Directions
With so many varieties of sharpeners it’s important to know how to correctly use yours, and, just as importantly, what type of knives can be sharpened.
Some can handle serrated knives while others are just good for flat knives. Know this because pulling the wrong type of knife through the sharpener can damage the blade.
Step 3: Sharpen Your Knives As Desired
You gently place your knife into the slot and pull it through at a leisurely pace. Do this 10-15 times for each stage of the sharpener and your knives should be like new.
To get an idea of how easy it truly is to use an electric knife sharpener, the folks at Linkyo show you how to use one of their models. It’s not even two minutes so you can’t afford to miss it.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.
Thanks To The Internet, Straight Razors Are Back In Style. These Trio Of Blades Can Keep You Looking Sharp And Feeling Smooth.
Mastering shaving with a sho-nuff handheld straight razor is a lost art that has recently become more popular thanks to social media shaving gurus and those who like a good challenge.
Straight razors never went away, the internet just has a knack for making old things new and cool again. Let’s look at a trio of current offerings and shave them through their paces.
Boker King Cutter
Boker King Cutter
Boker has been producing straight razors since 1869 and the company offers many models today. The King Cutter, the company’s most popular razor, features a carbon steel blade with a deep hollow grind. The handle is a black polymer with a brass Boker Tree Brand logo escutcheon. The King Cutter was the lightest of the three review pieces, tipping the scales at a svelte 1.47 ounces. It features a monkey tail tang for quick blade access.
Being the most expensive of the test lot by a long shot and from a company that has been making straight razors for over 150 years, you’d expect the King Cutter to perform well. Simply put, it did. The blade was, ahem, razor-sharp right out of the box and glided through my two-day stubble clean as a whistle. I never had to back up and go over an area to get it smoother.
The thinnest of the review blades, it got into tight spots a bit easier. However, a word of warning is in order. An extremely sharp blade like this will cut you faster, too, so take your time! The King Cutter’s high price tag may scare some away, though there are other straight razors out there that cost much more.
MSRP: $189.95
Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor
Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor
Rough Ryder’s Cinnamon Bone Stag Razor has all the trappings at a budget price, including the good looks of a traditional straight razor. The cinnamon bone stag handle, replete with an acorn escutcheon, is downright handsome—and Rough Ryder does bone stag well.
The cutting portion of the blade has a light yet distinctive damascus pattern running across its face, and a barber’s notch at the point aids in safely opening and deploying the blade. A monkey tail tang completes the package.
Right out of the box, the Rough Ryder entry shaved the stubble straight from my face. The blade was plenty sharp and I was able to get into tight spots with good results. When you get down to the nitty-gritty, there are differences between this razor and an expensive one like the Boker.
There is a tad more drag on the blade and I had to back up a few times to get the area I was shaving totally smooth. To be honest, I expect this from a razor at this price point, and you should, too. That said, the Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone got the job done and was no slouch. I recommend this razor to those who want to get their feet wet before taking the plunge on a high-dollar cutter. And, by golly, it was the most attractive of the bunch!
MSRP: $29.99
TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2
TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2
The TOPS Knives Tac-Raze 2 is designed as an EDC and not billed as a straight razor. Nonetheless, we threw it into the fray to see if we could shave with it, letting the chips fall where they may.
A full 2.625 inches of the blunt-tipped blade has a slightly bowed edge. There’s a rat-tail tang reminiscent of the old friction folders, though not forged. The Tac-Raze 2 has a deep choil below the blade edge that splits time with the handle. TOPS includes a dark brown leather slip and a small bottle of protectant.
Would an EDC with a razor-style blade shave? Given how many YouTube videos there are of guys shaving with everything from bowies to kitchen fare, I figured why the heck not? A cursory check right out of the box with the blade warmed up and a light coat of shaving cream on a cheek gave me surprising results. Not only did the Tac-Raze 2 shave my stubbled skin with ease, it was darn smooth! Next, I cleaned the blade up and stropped it, and the shave was as smooth as I could get with a standard straight razor.
As I worked around my face I found some gremlins with the TOPS EDC. The handle is not nearly as nimble as a standard straight razor, which is to be expected since it’s not a standard straight razor. I found getting into tight areas like the crack between my upper lip and cheek particularly dicey. Bottom line? What you lose in dexterity with the Tac-Raze 2 you gain in versatility since, after all, this is an EDC knife with all the benefits—and it comes with a slick leather slip.
MSRP: $139
Scoring The Straight Razors
All three in our razor trio had their strengths and weaknesses, but all got the job done. The Boker King Cutter is the pro razor of the bunch. The Rough Ryder Cinnamon Bone is a nice entry-level shaver, and the TOPS Tac-Raze 2 is certainly the most versatile.
One final note: don’t be afraid to try a straight razor. As a knife enthusiast, chances are you’ve already developed a healthy respect for sharp blades. Wade in slowly and carefully—once you get a feel for the straight razor, it will feel right at home in your hand. Happy shaving!
