Here are BLADE Magazine’s Featured Knives of the Week. Browse through these articles to find the best knives available from both custom knifemakers and factory knives.
Sarge Knives TK Retro has throwback looks, but modern performance.
The TK Retro from Sarge Knives reminds me of my first fixed blade.
The blade was pitted and the leather handle was cracking. Still, the knife field dressed many squirrel, rabbit and game birds throughout my childhood. It was an excellent camper’s or outdoorsman’s knife.
As for the TK Retro, like my first fixed blade, the stacked-leather handle still gives my hand a warm feel. It has a 440C stainless steel blade to make its good looks last even longer. However, how does it cut?
TK Retro Sharpness Test
Using the knife’s weight, the author employed push cuts in the stationery. There were no “bad starts,” just smooth slicing.
The first test medium was 20-pound bond copy paper. The TK Retro started slicing and made nice, clean cuts in the stationery. Using the knife’s weight, I employed push cuts. There were no “bad starts,” just smooth slicing.
TK Retro Light-Duty Cuting
The blade audibly crunched the leather with each skive and made it easy to control the width of slices.
The TK Retro bit deep and smooth [into drywall], with minimal bending of the cut pieces. I could feel the cardboard’s layers with each cut. Edge performance was nice and aggressive. The handle provides a very secure grip.
Leather skiving followed. The blade audibly crunched the leather with each cut and made it easy to control the width of slices.
Heavy-Duty Cutting With Sarge’s Fixed Blade
Firesticks
Melissa did a great job whittling a fuzz stick with the TK Retro over her painted bench.
While camping, I was splitting firewood for the weekend. My wife, Melissa, wanted to start the fire so I showed her how to make fire sticks. She took to whittling very quickly and did four of the sticks to aid in her fire starting. She used the TK Retro to make some very nice curlicues. Before I knew it she had a beautiful fire going—excellent job on her part! I was surprised to see her whittling over her bench that she had painted. She seemed to feel very confident using the little fixed blade.
Splitting Wood
I had some dry hackberry wood to split for kindling. A dead blow hammer and the TK Retro made short work of the task. I didn’t see or feel any edge/knife damage while batonning the edge through the wood. The guard acted like a guide for my hold hand, keeping the wood away from my knuckles. The leather handle absorbed the vibrations perfectly.
Vs Rope
The fixed blade made 82 crunching cuts in the half-inch sisal rope before the edge started to slide.
On the half-inch sisal rope, the TK Retro crunched its way to 82 clean cuts before the edge started to slide. I did find that the guard had a sharp edge that needed softening a bit. It would create a hot spot on your hand after a while. It was an easy fix with some sandpaper.
Chopping Antlers
After 20 hard whacks on the antler the edge showed nary a chip, a sign of outstanding heat treating.
The last test for the edge consisted of a series of chops into a whitetail deer antler. After 20 hard whacks, I expected to see some minor edge chipping but there was none. The edge was as sharp as when I started. Sarge Knives nailed the heat treating.
Changes
The guard and buttcap need to be softened a tad. They will bite you after a period of hard use.
Final Cut
The TK Retro is a very nice medium-use knife great for game or camping.
A kitchen do-all, the Santoku is a must-have for foodie pros and novices alike. Here’s what to look for to get the best, plus our top picks.
Santoku knives are becoming increasingly popular in the West, especially among foodies, passionate home chefs, and anyone who brings a knife roll to work in a kitchen. If you’ve been dying to learn more about this great Japanese knife, you’re in luck.
We’re going to go over everything you need to know about the Santoku, from its origins and design, to how to buy and use one in your own kitchen. We’re also going to go over the top Santoku knives on the market right now, in case you’re looking to pick one up for yourself (or as a gift).
Origin of the Santoku
Traditionally, in Japanese cooking, knives have different roles based on what you’re preparing, more than how it’s being prepared. Around 100 years ago, you would commonly see a Gyuto (basically what Westerners call a chef’s knife) used to cut beef, pork, and chicken, a Nakiri to cut vegetables, and a Deba to cut fish.
Each of these is designed for its specific task, and so they are specialized. Of course, they can be used differently, but the idea is to have a knife for every task, rather than a knife for any task.
Around the 1940s, as steel started to come at a bit of a premium due to some noted historical world conflicts, the desire for multi-purpose kitchen cutlery rose, and out of that desire came the Santoku, or “three virtues” knife.
The purpose of the Santoku, also translated as “three uses”, was to be able to handle most food prep duties with just one knife. To that end, it is designed to be able to handle chopping, slicing, and cutting tasks, which is another interpretation of the meaning of the name.
Santoku Design
A Santoku typically uses a sheep’s foot blade and tip, which gives you a long, relatively flat blade edge and a tip that sweeps back up in a large radius towards the spine.
A mid-range Santoku from my personal kitchen.
Edge
Most are between 5 and 7 inches and have an edge with a very Western-style bilaterally cutting edge with a 12 to 15-degree shoulder. Many Japanese knives are ground to a chisel edge, which is only sharpened on one side, but a classic Santoku has a more familiar Western-style edge geometry.
This does mean that, for those of us in the West, sharpening isn’t too much different than with any other kitchen knife, just with a different angle. It also means that Santokus are typically made of very hard steel to prevent damage to that thin wedge.
This makes them an absolute dream for slicing and chopping tasks. If you’ve ever wanted to reliably get those paper-thin tomato slices, you’ll have every advantage with a Santoku.
Handle
Most Santokus have no bolster, which may also take a bit of getting used to depending on your grip. However, many have a handle that tapers down towards the blade, making it very comfortable for the classic pinch grip most of us home cooks are probably used to.
Granton Edge
Lastly, many Santokus feature a “Granton edge”, which you can recognize by the slightly scalloped sides of the blade that look like someone took an ice cream scoop to the steel and removed little bits of the blade.
These little scallops help sticky, wet foods like meats and certain vegetables from sticking to the side of the blade as you’re chopping. If you’ve ever tried to slice tomatoes quickly or dice something like a chicken thigh, you’ll know how helpful this feature can be.
What To Look For In A Santoku
Here’s a fun fact I don’t get to bring up in my writing career a lot: I’ve worked as a chef in kitchens all over the South for a good portion of my 30ish years on this planet. In that time I’ve held a lot of knives.
Cooking may not be my main gig anymore, but it is something I’m still passionate about. I cook most meals for my family, and I still help out with the occasional catering gig when my chef friends need an extra hand.
All of which is to say, I’ve got some battle-tested, dinner-rush-proven opinions about what to look for in a kitchen knife, and we’re going to apply those to our Santoku shopping.
Blade Length
While Santokus come in a range of lengths, for your first one I definitely recommend sticking to a 5 to 7-inch blade. This is a good range for all the common tasks you’d likely want a Santoku for and makes for a very handy blade.
This gives you a blade that’s most likely shorter than your standard Western-style chef’s knife (or Gyuto), but still more than sufficient for chopping large, hearty vegetables when needed. It’s also not too big to quickly filet a fish, or other delicate tasks.
Steel
Blade steel is an important consideration with any knife, but especially the Santoku. As we discussed above, a Santoku has a very thin edge and narrow blade geometry.
While the thin edge gives you immense slicing and chopping performance when we’re dealing with vegetables, it’s potentially a liability. Specifically, the edge is more prone to rolling if you’re doing something like hacking through a chicken carcass.
To protect against such occurrences, a typical Santoku—and Japanese knives in general—are treated to a higher hardness than Western-style knives. Japanese knives like the Santoku are also typically high-carbon steel.
Practically, this means that you’ll have to put in more work to sharpen a high-quality Santoku than a Western-style knife. On the flip side, the edge will likely last you a good bit longer. This makes the Santoku a good everyday kitchen knife, especially if you don’t love sharpening.
Stay away from stainless steel, unless you’re really on a budget and want to try the Santoku out on the cheap before committing to a more expensive model. (We’ll have some very good budget-friendly options below if you want to go that route.)
Stick to a high-carbon steel of Japanese or German origin if possible, and look for something with a Rockwell hardness of 57 or higher at a minimum. I like 60 plus but that starts to get expensive quickly.
When in doubt, when it comes to any kitchen knife really, buy from one of the countries that lost WWII and you’ll probably do alright (I have similar opinions about cars).
Blade Height
Blade length and width are familiar decision points when buying a knife, but for something like a Santoku blade height (the distance from the blade edge to the spine) is also important.
Because these knives are designed for slicing and chopping against a cutting board, you want to make sure the blade is tall enough to keep your knuckles comfortably off the cutting board when using the knife.
This tall blade also makes it easier to create nice, even slices. The edge is less likely to wander to the left or right as you slice, and you have a nice large flat surface to index whatever you’re cutting against as you’re slicing.
A Note on Scalloped Edges, or Granton Edge
You will probably notice in your Santoku shopping many of these knives, and Japanese knives in general, tend to have a Granton edge. You’ll see dimples on the side of the blade.
The dimples on my personal general-use Santoku.
The idea behind these dimples is to relieve the suction effect when slicing through thick vegetables or meats and keep things from sticking to the blade. How much does that help? I’ll be honest, I don’t know.
A lot of it depends on the geometry of the dimples, what exactly you’re cutting through, and its moisture content. In other words, you may not see a huge difference, so don’t get too hung up on the dimples.
Done right, they can definitely help though, so don’t completely discount them either.
Using a Santoku
Actually using a Santoku is a bit different from a Western-style chef’s knife, but don’t let that keep you from buying one!
With a Santoku, the chief difference from the knives you’re probably used to for general food prep is the thickness and the angle of the cutting edge.
A Santoku has an edge that is ground to a much more extreme angle than most Western-style knives, and the edge of the blade is fairly linear compared to your average chef’s knife here in the US or Europe.
Why does that matter?
Where a knife with a pronounced belly, like a Western-style chef knife, will slice downward and then you rock the blade forward just a bit to complete your cut. With a Santoku, the motion is more of a flat downward chop, with very little rocking.
I promise, it’s not actually all that different in practice, but you will have to adjust a little bit when you’re first learning to use the knife.
The other thing to keep in mind is that a Santoku is more prone to chipping if you really hammer it into something hard like bone. This is not what you should be using to hack through carcass joints. Use a cleaver for that and leave the Santoku for slicing and cutting meats, fruits, and vegetables.
Santoku vs Western-style Chef’s Knives
The Santoku is a multi-purpose knife with a similar role to the Western-style knives you’re probably familiar with, but with a very different design.
Compared to a Western chef knife, it is typically shorter, thinner, and consequently lighter. The lack of a pronounced “belly” to the edge also means you will have to adjust your technique if you’re used to cutting with a Western-style chef
A Western-style knife, or Gyuto, is going to have an easier time with fine tip work, and will typically have more of a “belly” to the blade to make it easier to rock back and forth on a cutting board.
In my kitchen, I have both and use them regularly. Like most cooks, I find that a Santoku excels in slicing tasks, particularly if you’re trying to get thin, even slices. If you’re caramelizing onions, slicing tomatoes for a BLT, or dicing up chicken into bite-sized pieces, a Santoku is excellent.
If you’re doing something that requires more of a rough chop, such as dealing with a large number of fresh herbs, a Western-style chef’s knife is probably going to be a better option as you can simply rock the knife back and forth through the herbs and be good to go.
A Western-style knife is also much better for preparing heavier proteins, such as breaking down a chicken carcass or carving up a roast. For one, the blade is longer which makes long drag cuts and slices through thick pieces of meat much easier.
The edge profile of the chef’s knife also handles hacking through bones whereas you’re basically asking to chip or roll your edge if you do that with a Santoku.
For things like fish where you’re typically working with much smaller portions, and you have lighter, thinner bones to deal with, a Santoku excels. Its shorter length is a boon instead of a hindrance here, and the thin edge and blade profile keeps those thin slices of fish from sticking.
As a general rule, for something like fish, garlic, or very wet vegetables and fruits that like to stick to your knife, a Santoku is better. For heavier tasks that require a beefier edge, or a longer cutting surface, your Western-style knife is better.
The type of work you’re doing also matters, with a Santoku being much better for a straight up-and-down chop or slice, and a Western-style knife being better for a rocking slice.
Best Santoku Knives for Any Budget
Wusthof Classic Hollow Edge Santoku Knife
First up, we have a favorite of professional kitchens, the Wusthof Classic series Santoku. Wusthof, as you can probably tell from the name, is a German company, and they’re known for making outstanding cutlery. This Santoku is no exception.
This is getting into the upper end of the Santoku market (there will be cheaper options below, never fear) but it is still an excellent value if you’re looking for a durable, well-designed option that’s going to see some heavy use.
I’ve personally used this knife for years, and have one in my personal kitchen at home. In my experience, this is the best-slicing knife out there for vegetables and fish, and I use mine several times a week.
It has a 5-inch hollow-edge blade made of X50CRMOV15 high-carbon stainless steel, making it perfect for home cooks and pros alike.
Tojiro 6.7-Inch Santoku
If the thought of paying more than $100 for a kitchen knife makes you a little itchy in the wallet area, don’t worry. Tojiro has you covered.
This Santoku is a bit on the longer side, making it a great choice for almost any kitchen task. I’ve personally used these knives for a number of years now, and I find them to be a bit chunky, but then I’ve got short sausage fingers. Your results may vary.
Even with my diminutive digits though, this knife absolutely sails through fish, chicken, and other light proteins, and slices fruit and veg like a dream. It has a bolster, and an evenly ground edge so it’s perfect for those used to more Western-style knives.
This knife has a 6.7-inch blade made of cobalt alloy steel clad in VG10, which is high-end Japanese steel with high chromium content. This makes it a great budget option for those who don’t want to spend a lot of time sharpening.
Mercer Culinary Genesis Forged Santoku Knife
For the even more budget conscious, the Mercer Culinary Genesis Forged series is a great place to start. Yes, you can absolutely get an entire knife block for $40, but they’re going to be less than stellar.
You don’t need to spend a fortune on cooking gear, but there are some places where you definitely get what you pay for. With this knife from Mercer Culinary, you’re getting a solid knife that will last for years, without breaking the bank. This is about as cheap as I’d go, personally, but it’s no less effective for that.
The Genesis Forged Santoku has a 7-inch blade made of X50CRMOV15 high-carbon stainless.
MAC Professional Santoku Knife
This is another staple of professional kitchens and a great option for passionate home cooks, as well. MAC’s Professional line is a great option for foodies and pros, and their Santoku is no exception.
I actually think I like the handle on this knife the most of any on this list, but that’s down mostly to personal preference. The blade has a 15-degree edge that slices like a dream. The high-carbon alloy is sub-zero tempered to increase hardness and wear resistance.
The handle is made of a very lightweight wood laminate that is very tough and grippy in the hand. The blade is 6.5 inches long and is made from MAC’s Sub-Zero alloy steel.
Miyabi Birchwood Santoku
If you’re looking for something that really reflects the Japanese heritage of the Santoku, a knife that has an aesthetic as nice as its cutting performance, this Santoku from Miyabi’s Birchwood line is a great option.
With a blade made from powdered high-carbon steel that’s been folded over a hundred times and a handle made of a beautiful Karelian birch (the only wood to ever be used in a Fabergé egg), this knife is a serious showpiece that you’ll want on display somewhere.
It also cuts like Wolverine’s claws.
Seriously, if you want a beautiful gift to give that special chef in your life, or you just want a super high-end knife that looks great and slices even better, this is a great option.
The Miyabi Birchwood Santoku has a 7-inch hand-honed blade made of G2 micro-carbide powdered steel in a folded, flower pattern Damascus.
J.A. Henckels Zwilling Hollow Edge Santoku Knife at Amazon
Our last two knives are from the same manufacturer, J.A. Henckels, possibly the biggest name in kitchen knives (with good reason).
The Zwilling Signature series is one of its higher-end options, featuring a hollow-ground edge and a very comfortable handle with a very minimal bolster. This is a good cross between a traditional Santoku handle and a more modern Santoku handle design.
The 7-inch blade is made of an ice-hardened (Friodur) steel that is proprietary to J.A. Henckels that lasts for a very, very long time in between sharpenings. For a bonus, you can get it custom-engraved for basically nothing since J.A. Henckels does everything in-house.
J.A. Henckels Zwilling Pro 7 Hollow Edge Rocking Santoku Knife
Lastly, we have a very similar knife to the one above, but with a more Western-style edge profile geared more towards the familiar rocking motion most of us know already. It still has a relatively flat edge, so you do get all of that Santoku performance, but with a little more versatility when it comes to a rocking chop.
Like the model above, it features a very comfortable handle, but the Pro series features a more pronounced, Western-style bolster, ideal for the pinch grip that we use here in the West.
It has a 7-inch blade made of proprietary high-carbon SIGMAFORGE steel (I don’t know what SIGMAFORGE means either, you’ll have to ask Henckels about it).
The slip joint knife endures as a time-tested design, perfect as an everyday pocket companion. Here we look at some of the best modern takes on the classic style of knife.
The slip joint is perhaps the most recognized form of folding knife. Chances are you started your knife collecting journey by buying some sort of slip joint, such as a Swiss Army knife or other multi-blade.
Slip joints have been on the comeback trail for some time now, with an increasing number of factory knife companies offering new examples of the tried-and-true design. This is good for the entire slip-joint genre, as novice collectors discover, and veteran ones rediscover, their love for the classic traditional folders.
CRKT Venandi
CRKT and custom knifemaker Richard Rogers have a few factory collaborations under their belts. Richard’s distinct style lends to knives with both a signature-refined appearance and a high level of usability. He mainly makes higher-end custom knives, and his work is sought by discerning collectors.
CRKT’s newest Rogers collaboration is the Venandi, a single-blade trapper featuring a 3-inch
blade in a modified clip-point pattern and 8Cr13MoV stainless steel. The handle is a brown-and-black G-10, and the contour brings out the woodgrain-style layers for an exciting visual pop. The triangular-shaped bolts and pivot bolt provide a distinctive touch of class, and the bomb shield is a nice touch.
Despite being a larger slip joint, at 1.8 ounces the knife is lightweight and rides comfortably inside a pocket or next to your wallet. The blade’s pull is a bit stiff and that’s on purpose. There is a half-stop, in which the blade pauses midway through opening and closing cycles. A large nail nick assists in opening. A hollow grind and a bit of a swedge dress up the blade’s appearance.
The Venandi is stylish and functional. It’s a knife you can carry when dressed up for church or the office, tackling home improvement projects, or doing yardwork. Out of the box, the blade is centered and the action is crisp.
My only complaint is the lack of a hole to attach a lanyard for grabbing at the top of the pocket for easier knife access. With an MSRP of $49.99 and made in China, the Venandi is a highly functional custom-designed folder that won’t break the budget—and it’s really good looking to boot.
Spyderco Lil Native Slipit
With optimized ergonomics for enhanced cutting performance, the Spyderco Lil Native Slipit is a compact folder that feels larger in the hand than you might think. Of course, this is no surprise as Spyderco is the master of ergonomics for smaller knives, the result being an extremely comfortable user experience.
The Slipit line of slip joints offers traditional Spyderco performance for jurisdictions—most of which are overseas—that ban lockblade folders. The company’s Native locking folders have been great sellers, and it makes sense to offer the design in a Slipit version, too.
The Lil Native Slipit’s 2.4-inch blade is CPM S30V stainless steel, well known for its edge-holding power, and features Spyderco’s signature leaf shape. A full flat grind thins the cutting edge out nicely, enabling the knife to sail through a variety of materials quickly and efficiently.
The handle is peel-ply G-10 in a texture that provides enough traction without being overly aggressive. In an open length just shy of six inches, the folder is big enough to complete most daily cutting chores.
The action is extremely smooth thanks to bronze washers and a full polished tang, allowing the blade’s spring to glide effortlessly over the surface while opening and closing. Since the Lil Native isn’t a traditional slip joint, Spyderco uses a notched joint in the tang to allow the backsprings to firmly seat to hold the blade open.
To close, applying pressure to the blade spine generates enough force to overcome the notched joint and thus allows the blade to rotate closed. The action is akin to a lockback folder—firm yet smooth. The blade hole allows you to open and close the folder easily with one hand as you would with any of the company’s lockblade models—a rarity for a slip joint. A steel pocket clip mounts in one of four configurations for carrying the Lil Native Slipit most any way you desire.
Made in the USA, the MSRP is $198.
Boker Barlow Prime EDC
The barlow is a classic pocketknife pattern many workingmen know. It’s a simple design that holds up well to a variety of slicing chores. Through the years many companies have offered their own versions of the pattern, and the Boker Barlow Prime EDC is one of the latest iterations.
Featuring an old-school design executed with modern materials, the knife has a 2.4-inch spear-point blade ground from N690 stainless steel and a satin finish. Action is smooth opening and closing. There’s also a nice half-stop.
The handle is black canvas Micarta® with a smooth polished finish that is a touchy-feely delight. Even the pins are flush with the grip surface. The handle is linerless, which helps save weight and reduce thickness. The contoured handle allows the Barlow Prime EDC to both feel terrific and ride comfortably in a pocket. Speaking of which, the knife almost disappears in the bottom of one.
Weighing in at 1.23 ounces, the Boker makes a great EDC knife. It is perfect for those who do not like bulk when carrying a pocketknife. It takes on small, mundane daily cutting tasks with ease—opening mail and boxes, packs of crackers, pesky clamshell packages, etc. It’s small enough to not attract unwanted attention. For those who like single-blade slip joints for daily carry, add this one to your list.
Made in Germany, the Boker Barlow Prime EDC has an MSRP of $185.95.
LionSteel JKCF Jack
And now, for something a bit different—the LionSteel JK3CF Jack. LionSteel’s slip joints are a departure from the norm since they have nothing but high-end materials in their construction. The JK3CF is a perfect example. Taking the traditional jackknife and putting its spin on it, LionSteel offers the knife in three configurations.
The JK3CF has all the boxes checked. It has a main blade, a screwdriver/bottle opener combo tool, and a corkscrew. The handle is carbon fiber with titanium bolsters and liners. The 3-inch main blade is a traditional clip point with a swedge. Premium M390 stainless steel provides the ultimate in edge holding. Normally M390 is reserved for tactical knives, and this might be a rare occasion that it’s used on a slip joint.
The ambidextrous long blade pulls allow quick and easy deployment. The screwdriver/bottle opener also has matching long pulls. Everything fits up on the JK3CF, including excellent craftsmanship and smooth action of the blades. The spring tension is firm and does a great job holding the blades open.
A couple of things on this one I particularly like are not commonly found on slip joints. First is the use of Torx fasteners throughout. The scales are secured by the fasteners, as well as the pivot.
Second is the crowning (rounding) of the exposed edges of the liners, backsprings, and blade spines. The extra touch provides a lot of visual pop. Not every manufacturer takes the time and effort to crown the edges, so when you see a knife that has it done, it stands out even more—and I really dig it. You can tell LionSteel took extra measures for the knife’s aesthetics.
The flat grind allows the blade to sever various materials easily, and the M390 won’t give up when other steels do. It is in it for the long haul. The handle width is perfect for use as a thumb rest to apply pressure to the blade. There’s something about using a high-end production knife made with premium materials.
The JK3CF is meant to be used, so go ahead and use it with confidence. M390 is one of my favorite go-to steels when I need the ultimate in edge holding. The blade shape is conducive to work. The flat grind cuts a variety of tough materials easily and the defined tip is a good scoring tool.
Made in Italy, the JK3CF has an MSRP of $225, which arguably is fairly steep for a production slip joint. But remember, it uses titanium and a premium blade steel.
SOG Terminus SJ
The overall looks of the SOG Terminus might easily fool you into thinking it’s a modern linerlock.
I’ve had a hit-and-miss relationship with SOG’s folders over the years. Some I’ve liked the looks of and others not so much. Some were dead-solid users, some not so much. In the Terminus, SOG provides both a solid user and an attractive knife—you know, like that girlfriend you get along with and are OK being seen with in public.
The folder has a very modern appearance. It sports a set of textured G-10 scales in OD green. The blade is saber-ground CRYO D2 tool steel and has a false edge. For those who prefer a more contemporary look you have it in the Terminus, and you don’t sacrifice utility for aesthetics.
Right off the bat the edge cut well, but just for the heck of it I gave it a good stropping and took it up a level or two. Though not heavily contoured, the grip is comfortable and provides nimble control. SOG offers a nice, genuine user in the Terminus and at a reasonable price so you can put it to work without making it a safe queen.
Hinderer XM-18 Slippy
Though you can use the movable/sliding thumb disc of the XM-18 Slippy from Rick Hinderer Knives for one-hand opening, the author preferred simply using the long notch to open the blade.
Nothing quite says modern like a knife name that sounds like a football play. With the XM-18 Slippy slip joint, Rick Hinderer Knives executes a pocketknife design but adds Rick’s own special spin to it. At first glance you would think it is a contemporary linerlock folder. The spring system is tight to help prevent accidental blade closure. A heavy spring also makes it a bit challenging to open for me—so much so I prefer opening it with two hands rather than using the innovative thumb disc design. I just can’t seem to get an angle to easily allow me to overcome the spring tension. Hinderer has devised a design that allows you to move the thumb disc along the groove so you can find the best leverage point for your needs. My thumb is so large I can’t quite get it between the knife body and the disc.
The blade is a saber-ground sheepsfoot pattern of CPM 20V stainless steel. With a tip below center, it makes utility-style cuts simple. A pocket clip with a raised tip has no difficulty locking on a pocket rim. I had no issues while testing the XM-18 Slippy. It did everything you might ask it to do in daily life. It’s also a sturdy enough build that you can lean on it for tougher jobs.
Kershaw Zero Tolerance 0235
There is nothing like a thin ground blade like that of the ZT 0235 to get a wicked edge on a knife. Such a blade can make shavings so thin you can almost see through them.
Carbon-fiber scales give the 0235 by Zero Tolerance (ZT) an up-to-date look as well as the appearance of a trim, lightweight package. An open-frame body structure eases the job of keeping the Jens Anso design free of pocket lint. The spear-point blade of CPM 20CV boasts a full flat grind. A reversible saber-style pocket clip provides deep pocket carry. The clip is one of my disappointments as it’s rather small and doesn’t trap most pant pocket rims well. It’s a tight fit once on a pocket, which tends to make a smooth withdrawal with my bear-paw hands difficult.
The lanyard loop on the back of the handle tends to be a European thing in my eyes, and I wouldn’t necessarily use it given its location on the knife. You can’t put it at the back because of the clip position, but nothing is stopping you from running a cord or a chain through the clip.
Thanks to a detent ball system, the blade holds open both fully and also in the half-stop position. Once the detents disengage, the blade is freewheeling. On a backspring system the tension on the blade is constant and restricts the blade from moving freely. If enough pressure is applied to break the detents free, you’ll have a blade with no resistance to it, which worries me a bit.
The knife is on the small side and works well but the lightweight feel can be a bit deceiving—especially if you equate heft with durability. Handling is no problem but, due to the lack of mass, you can feel the strain of heavier cuts through the handle. I would classify the 0235 as a gentleman’s knife given the crisp presentation with the carbon fiber—well suited for small everyday chores while acting as a showpiece.
Editor’s Note: Abe Elias and Dexter Ewing contributed to this post.
Be it chopping wood or prepping a meal, a solid bushcraft knife is an essential piece of backwoods kit.
Bushcraft is a specialized skill set that ensures survival in the wilderness using foraging, hunting, fishing, shelter construction, and firecraft, all accomplished with minimal tools. The primary bushcraft implement is a fixed blade employed not only for food prep but the other mentioned skills, too.
As a result, such a fixed blade must be a tough tool capable of more than just standard cutting tasks, including whittling, carving, splitting wood or, in conjunction with a ferrocerium rod, starting a campfire.
What Defines A Bushcraft Knife?
Five basic chores of outdoor survival can be performed with a bushcraft knife. The tasks are elemental and a must-learn if you want to use a bushcraft knife to maximum effect.
Chopping
Batoning
Carving
Fire Starting
Food Prep
Chopping
Whereas a small hatchet, ax, or even a machete are better suited for the task, a bushcraft knife can turn the trick. Grip the handle as far back and as securely as you can, and chop as you would with a larger knife, ax, hatchet or machete.
Batoning
Basically, to baton a piece of kindling is to split it. Take a rather large/thick piece of wood to act as a baton/hammer in one hand, lay the blade edge on the end of the secured piece of kindling with the other, and, using firm, deliberate blows, pound the blade lengthwise through the kindling, effectively splitting it.
Again, an ax, hatchet or even a folding saw would be better, but if you lack any of these, your bushcraft knife is capable of handling such a task.
Carving
One of the most important bushcraft skills is to carve bowls, spoons, or even whittling sticks to roast hot dogs. Chopping and batoning are tasks using brute force; carving is more finesse and control.
This can be accomplished by using the knife and a ferrocerium (aka ferro) rod. The job is best done by using a knife that has a blade with a 90-degree spine as opposed to a chamfered or radiused one.
Grasp the knife firmly, cutting edge up. Lay the corner of the blade spine on the ferro rod and with one swift, downward motion, as if you are whittling o a piece of the rod, move the blade down it. Doing so will result in a white hot shower of sparks. The sparks can ignite tinder to start a fire.
The key to fire starting is always select a bushcraft knife with a 90-degree spine. If it lacks such a spine, you can always use the edge but this will dull the one spot on the edge faster than standard cutting will.
Food Prep
And, obviously, a bushcraft blade can also adeptly handle any cutting task related to food or campsite prep. Bushcraft knives prove a knife need not have sheer size and weight to be effective. It’s all in smart design of the blade and handle.
Our Picks For Best Bushcraft Knife
Boker Magnum Life Knife
Boker Magnum Life Knife
The most affordable bushcraft model of the test bunch, the Boker Magnum Life Knife has a 3.9-inch blade of 440A stainless steel in a modified clip-point pattern. Built rugged for the outdoors, the knife comes with a sturdy Kydex sheath for safe carry.
At 7.87 inches overall, the Life Knife sports a handle of machined black G-10 in a coarse crosshatched checkering pattern for enhanced hand traction regardless of conditions. The grooves in the crosshatching work are similar to those of a radial car tire by displacing moisture. Red fiber liners under the G-10 add a nice pop of color to an otherwise dark knife.
The handle includes integral forward and rear guards to prevent your hand from sliding in either direction. The three large traction notches in the thumb rest area of the blade spine also help improve grip. The handle felt a bit skinny in my hand, so I would prefer a slightly wider one.
Conversely, the Life Knife might be a great choice for those with smaller paws. The 3.9-inch blade is a great size for belt carry. The rather compact nature allows it to carry comfortably, with the length neither too long nor too short. The short blade tip accomplishes precise cutting chores easily.
The sheath is a simple fold-over design of Kydex with a Boker Plus clip for belt carry. The sheath features quality construction, retains the knife well, and is simple yet effective.
MSRP: $59.95
Condor Tool & Knife Bushcraft Bliss
Condor Tool & Knife Bushcraft Bliss
Composed of high-quality materials, the Bushcraft Bliss from Condor Tool & Knife boasts a 5-inch blade with a flat grind. The 1075 carbon steel can be rather easy to sharpen in the field and still retains an edge well. The modified clip point shape offers a generous belly for slicing and a defined point. A swedge gives the blade a bit of attitude, and bead-blasted flats and satin-finished bevels provide a two-tone finish that’s very eye-catching.
The ergonomic handle of red linen Micarta® is an excellent choice thanks to its being largely impervious to temperature and humidity changes. Three thong tubes fasten the scales to the full tang. Three large notches at the spine permit non-slip thumb placement so you can bear down on the blade. With its rounded edges, choil, and scale contouring, the handle felt as if it were molded to my hand.
The sheath is Condor’s hybrid molded Kydex and leather rig, an unusual material combo. The belt loop and securement strap are leather. The leather belt loop allows the sheath to move somewhat, unlike the more rigid molded clamshell fastener—which doesn’t—and makes it easier to sit down while wearing it. A thumb break molded into the top of the sheath assists in extracting the blade, which is a nice extra touch.
I found the handle to be very comfortable. A distinctive trait is the prominently elevated traction notches. They almost look like part of a gear. The feature ensures your thumb isn’t going anywhere.
The 5-inch blade makes baton work easy, as well as food prep tasks. Out of the box, the 1075 carbon steel was plenty sharp and ready for use. The Bushcraft Bliss is a consistent performer.
MSRP: $118
TOPS Knives Brakimo
TOPS Knives Brakimo
Joe Flowers runs Bushcraft Global, where he instructs students on basic and advanced survival skills while in the Amazon jungle. A notable authority in the field, he also designs knives, including the Brakimo from TOPS Knives, a tool that can carve, cut, split, and perform just about any task involving outdoor survival.
The 5.25-inch blade of 1095 carbon steel is a drop-point pattern with a Scandi grind. It has a generous belly for easy slicing and a defined point for delicate work.
The green Micarta handle is ideal for bushcraft given its stability and minimal weight. It is matte-finished for a nice grip quality without being overly aggressive. The integral front and rear guards provide a measure of safety that locks the knife in the hand. The divot in the handle is for use with a bow drill for making fire.
If there is a solid all-around performer of the test bunch, it’s the Brakimo. I like how it easily handles heavy work like chopping and baton work, as well as such lighter work as whittling and food prep. You can choke up on the handle for tasks requiring more control where a slicing or rocking motion is used. Grip the handle more toward the rear and feel how the balance point shifts to a blade-heavy profile for easy, effective chopping.
The Scandi grind acts as a wedge and splits the wood in a snap, almost as if no effort were invested—very impressive performance! For one knife that does it all, the Brakimo is it. In-hand it feels substantial and capable of taking on serious work.
MSRP: $225
Spyderco FB42G Zoomer
Spyderco FB42G Zoomer
Designed by Tony Zoomer, an outdoor enthusiast and survival skills instructor from the Netherlands comes the Spyderco FB42G Zoomer. Made of high-end materials, the knife is expertly configured and has a list of features that quite possibly makes it the most comfortable bushcraft knife you’ll use.
The 5-inch blade in a drop-point pattern is premium CPM 20CV stainless steel for enhanced edge retention. The blade has an ample belly for slicing and whittling/carving tasks and a defined point for close-up detail work. The full flat grind transitions to a convex edge, which is durable and extremely sharp.
The black G-10 scales are machined where they join the tang, so the handle is completely rounded in profile. This translates into a super comfortable grip that eliminates hot spots. An integrated rest at the blade spine permits placement of your thumb for additional pressure on cuts and for added control. The full tang extends a little beyond the end of the handle for use as a light-duty hammer.
The sheath is a custom-designed, well made leather drop-leg-style rig with a free-floating belt loop. It has an exterior storage pouch with a snap closure. The pouch can carry your choice of survival supplies, a large folding knife, a multi-tool, etc.
The free-floating belt loop allows the knife to swing freely as you move or pivot out of the way when you are seated. It also can temporarily break away in the event the sheath gets snagged by brush in the woods.
The Zoomer is a solid performer. The heavily contoured G-10 handle feels mighty good in the hand. The full flat grind allows the blade to sail through whatever you cut.
While the handle is comfortable, it felt big in my hand. Those with smaller hands might not take to it easily. While using high-performance CPM 20CV stainless steel is not typically a bushcraft thing, with some regular stropping and honing, you can prolong the edge and skip sharpening during your trip.
MSRP: $600
Fallkniven S1 Pro Forest Knife
The Fallkniven S1 Pro Forest did fine work—as on this fish spear—with full control. (All images by Ash Ayres and Mary Lou Ayres)
Fallkniven’s S1 Pro Forest Knife is the evolutionary descendant of the company’s S1, which has been in production for over 20 years. The Pro version is made with better steel than the original S1, is more sophisticated and a better performer.
The S1 Pro simply does everything well and with no fuss. Its convex grind does not bind in deep cuts, goes through tough, knotty wood with little effort, peels bark, makes feather sticks, does fine work as on fish spear points with full control, and slices duck through skin, meat and bone like Luke Skywalker’s lightsaber. It cut through 2-inch-thick saplings in about a minute with little effort. The non-slip grip is comfortable and does not, in fact, slip.
Compact enough to always have on—or with a custom sheath, inside—your belt, the S1 Pro is as close as I’ve seen to the mythical “one knife to do it all.”
MSRP: $466
Ontario Bushcraft Woodsman
Bushcrafting chopping
The geometry of the Bushcraft Woodsman’s blade, combined with the overall design, good steel and heat treat, make for an exceptional big knife.
Veteran bladesmith Dan Maragni designed this issue’s cover knife, the Ontario Bushcraft Woodsman. The big blade shows his expertise and lineage as an accomplished smith, and is far more sophisticated than a first glance might suggest.
The distal taper gives it excellent balance, and, combined with the taper from spine to edge, great chopping ability.
We slashed through 2-inch-thick saplings with a single swipe, an important point in the calories-expended-vs.-results-achieved equation, and when night is falling and you need to get a fire going.
The blade’s geometry, combined with the overall design, good steel and heat treat, make for an exceptional big knife. Again referencing Tolkien, Ash called it the “Goblin Cleaver.”
Not as handy for fine work as the smaller knives, Dan’s design is a reassuring blade to have by your side in deep woods when the jackals are howling—or the Orcs.
MSRP: $137
Larry Roberts Signature Edition Gen6 Scandi (L.T. Wright Handcrafted Knife Co.)
Due to its scandi grind, which tends to hang up in deep cuts, an average of three minutes was required to get through 2-inch-thick saplings with the Gen6 Scandi.
The Larry Roberts Signature Edition Gen6 Scandi from L.T. Wright Handcrafted Knife Co. performs like a “Mora on steroids,” according to Ash. I agree.
If you’re familiar with the scandi grind, the only surprise with the LRSEG6S is that it takes scandi-ground blades to a higher level of performance. It excels at controlled shallow cuts, holds an edge well, and is strong enough that when batonning you can twist the blade with no worries and quickly pop the batonned material apart.
I like the longer 6-inch blade much better than the popular 4-inch pattern because you can get more stuff done faster and at no penalty to doing fine work. Due to the scandi grind, which tends to hang up in deep cuts, an average of three minutes was required to get through 2-inch-thick saplings.
Comfortable in the hand, it is also beautifully made and finished. A good all-around performer, it is a classic belt knife for the woods.
MSRP: $253
Editor’s Note: Dexter Ewing and James Ayres contributed to this post.
These EDC Fixed Blade Knife Options All Have Their Positives As Everyday Companions.
Fixed blades are common in the woods though far less so on the streets—politics has largely seen to that. Folders are in the pockets of many these days and are somehow considered “less dangerous” than fixed blades.
I cannot for the life of me understand this as there is little if any practical difference in terms of capability, with the exception of fixed blades in theory allowing for a longer blade.
There is this idea that a fixed blade is more lethal. Sure, a longer blade allows for greater reach and penetration, but it’s also harder to use in close confines—and substantially more difficult to deploy.
EDC Fixed Blade Knife Pros And Cons
The argument against the carry of larger fixed blades is certainly political, not practical. It could be considered in the same vein as the political arguments surrounding guns, most of which are dedicated to regulating what amounts to cosmetic features. If it looks scary, the thinking goes, you can convince people it is more dangerous.
The interesting part is that the small EDC fixed blade knife options in this article are, for the most part, around the same size as box cutters. The thing is, when we see EDC, we often think about how the item is meant to be on your person, at the ready for utility jobs and even self-protection if need be. The latter is more the case with guns, where there are no power settings, only a fully lethal one.
In my stories on guns, I have often talked about how accessory-laden modern self-defense arms can be, but at the end of the day you’re not going to open your FedEx deliveries with a gun. Self-defense is a major purpose of firearms, whereas your EDC knife should be a jack-of-all-trades and capable of handling all your daily cutting tasks.
In the process of preparing this article, I had the pleasure of moving into a new house. As such I got to put the test blades through their paces, cutting everything from tape and cardboard to zip ties—and even dinner when I couldn’t find my silverware. In place of my carving knife I used the White River M1 Caper to serve chicken dinner.
The point is, these are supposed to be knives that benefit from fixed-blade construction, able to handle tasks that might damage a folder.
Best EDC Fixed Blade Knife Options
Fixed EDC Fixed Blade Knife Specs Comparision
Model
Overall Length
Blade Length
Blade Thickness
Weight
Blade Material
Handle Material
MSRP
Boker Pocket Knife
6.93 inches
3.39 inches
0.15 inches
3.74 ounces
440C
G10
$105
White River Knife & Tool’s Model 1 Caper
7 inches
3 inches
.130 inch
3.2 ounces
CPM S35VN or CPM Magnacut
Micarta
$120
Citadel Vannak V
5.75 inches
2.38 inches
.72 inch
2.9 ounces
DNH7
Palisander Wood
$175
Gerber Dibs
5.96 inches
2.5 inches
.12 inch
2.22 ounces
440A
440A
$36
Kizlyar Supreme Hammy
6 inches
2.13 inches
.13 inch
3.6 ounces
AUS-8, Niolox, Sleipner, K340, PGK
walnut, G10 or carbon
$117
Boker BFF
6.92 inches
2.76 inches
.10 inch
2.29 ounces
ABE-L
Walnut
$259
Spartan Blades Field Grade Enyo
6.25 inches
2.69 inches
.19 inch
2.816 ounces
AUS-8A
AUS-8A
$88
Boker Pocket Knife
Boker has quite the little devil with the Pocket Knife. The name, of course, implies that it is to be carried in the pocket, and it comes with a sheath that works very well in this role. It’s the longest blade in the group but has the smallest handle.
The handle size is deceptive; it is very minimalist in the pocket and the sheath sits low, thus making the knife appear to have a much smaller blade. It carries well and is lightweight—two things I like. However, in use, it becomes a bit more of a challenge.
I do get that the Pocket Knife, designed by veteran knifemaker and police officer Mickey Yurco, has a self-defense vibe. The EDC fixed blade knife’s long, narrow tip is an obvious thruster, though the overall texture of the full piece is very slick. The handle shape forces the hand into a slightly uncomfortable angle. Sheathing the knife is also difficult if clipped deep in a pocket.
As a regular-use knife, I have seen better. That said, in a self-defense role, this would be the best of the bunch. If the blade is in your hand in the reverse grip, it feels solid and firm. The tang cutout between the choil and the handle is perfect for pinky finger placement in the reverse grip, and the knife is an effective stabber and slasher in tight spaces.
This is an excellent blade to pair with grappling techniques and for dealing with heavy clothing. All said, I like what Boker did here. It is a knife that goes in your pocket, but I don’t think it is well suited for the role of a traditional pocketknife.
White River Knife & Tool’s Model 1 Caper was the best performer of the reviewed EDC fixed blade knife bunch. I have come to expect great knives from White River, not just ergonomically but also in terms of the quality of steel the company uses. The blades are heat treated very well, are not brittle, and stay extremely sharp even in heavy use.
The first thing I noticed about this knife is the grip, which is not only minimal but very comfortable. I can tell White River spends a great deal of time on the small things, such as the tang cutout having a very nice rounded interior edge that feels great on the finger and never digs into it. The grip material and shape feel terrific in the hand. The only downside is the Micarta® handle gets dirty fast and can stain.
The sheath is very well constructed and allows for positive sheathing with an audible click when the knife is seated. The sheath is meant for belt carry and is not a clip style like the others in the test, and fits most standard belts. The sheath surprised me a bit; it was the easiest to use of the bunch.
As far as utility for a carry knife, this one is probably the most versatile of the group. It is extremely sharp and has an aggressive, fine tip. It is so sharp it can pass through just about any normal material easily. I used it to cut heavy packaging straps and minutes later to prepare dinner. This is the definition of an all-purpose knife.
Made in Cambodia by Citadel, the Vannak V is an excellent EDC fixed blade knife. Overall, I really like this little guy. It doesn’t claim to be anything other than a daily use, small-task cutter. It’s great for opening mail and packages, light food prep, and small craft work. It is very pleasant to use and has an exceptional appearance.
Despite it being a great performer, I don’t have a tremendous amount to say about the Vannak V. It is devoid of gimmicks and is just a very tiny knife that does no more than its size allows. I like the wood grip and that the knife is made by hand by people who obviously care about what they’re doing.
The fit and finish are great. I have no complaints about grip texture or the depth of the tang cutout as the knife can’t really be used in the reverse grip—it’s just too small. The sheath is leather, minimalist, and completely functional.
Vannak V Specs Overall Length: 5.75 inches Blade Length: 2.38 inches Blade Thickness: .72 inch Weight: 2.9 ounces Blade Material: DNH7 Handle Material: Palisander Wood MSRP: $175
Gerber Dibs
The Gerber Dibs is a one-piece, skeletonized-handle knife common among small examples of the genre. The 440A stainless steel blade is 2.5 inches and has a modified clip point. A flat grind gives the edge plenty of bite for tough cutting chores.
The ergonomic handle has a large finger recess that doubles as an integral guard. When you grab the handle, it expands a bit to fill your grip. In addition to reducing overall weight, the skeletonized holes accommodate a paracord wrap to further augment purchase.
An all-encompassing black PVD coating provides a low-profile appearance and enhanced corrosion resistance. Overall length is just shy of 6 inches, making the Dibs a great compact knife for general use or food prep.
Out of the box the edge was excellent, ready to work and featuring plenty of bite. It dispatched cardboard with minimal fuss. The edge quality along with the dropped blade design help promote overall knife security, using either a choke grip for precise maneuvers or resting a thumb on the blade spine to add more control or pressure for the cut.
With skeletonized fixed blades, it is important to have a more complex handle design with varying features to help you retain your grip in the absence of scales. Despite having no scales, the Dibs is quite comfortable to grip. Skeletonized fixed blades are not meant for long periods of continuous use and are for convenience of carry instead. Bottom line, the knife is a pleasure to use.
The sheath is sewn-and-riveted leather dyed yellow. At first it appears too big—which it probably is—for such a small knife, but sheathed the Dibs is advertised as totable inside the pocket as well, which explains the large design.
If you have cargo pants with larger front pockets, it carries very well there. A button-snap strap secures the knife and a large loop accommodates most belt sizes. The sheath’s edges are rough and not finished too well. Then again, Gerber targets affordability and as much bang for the buck as possible with the Dibs, so corners apparently were cut.
The Kizlyar Supreme Hammy is an incredibly ergonomic knife. The leaf-shaped blade is 2.1 inches long and sports a full flat grind for slicing power. Blade steel is Niolox stainless. The highly ergonomic handle is loaded with curves that feel molded for your hand. Orange G-10 scales provide a pop of color and a solid grip. The handle is expertly chamfered and contoured in the right places, further enhancing user comfort.
At first glance the Hammy appears cute—but don’t let looks fool you, as it’s designed and built for work. It’s a fixed blade the size of a small open folder. The blade is .11 inches thick at its thickest point and sports a distal taper to the tip. Jimping on the blade spine and thumb rest offer non-slip purchase for your thumb or index finger.
When you grip the handle and your thumb rests naturally on the blade spine, you feel how comfortable the Hammy is. You can also sense the knife is highly controllable, instilling user confidence. The jimping could be a little better. It could be more defined/aggressive to offer a better bite into your thumb.
The leather sheath has a button-snap retention strap. There are also two smaller belt loops attached to the main belt loop. These are provided to carry the Hammy horizontally, as it is set up for traditional vertical carry like most straight knives.
While the sheath itself is well made and includes a whimsical artwork stamping of a hamster (the same illustration appears as an etching on the blade’s right-hand side), it doesn’t have the snuggest fit around the knife. Even with the retention strap buttoned it is possible to still wiggle the Hammy out. This is not so critical if you carry the Hammy vertically, but it is a concern if you carry it horizontally. A properly fitted sheath at this price point is a must.
The Boker BFF fixed blade designed by Lucas Burnley is ultra-compact for discreet, comfortable carry. Its design cues are taken from the barlow pocketknife, a general go-to cutting tool for centuries. The 2.7-inch blade is AEB-L stainless steel in a clip-point shape that is very utility friendly. The blade has an acid-wash finish to hide scratches.
At 6 inches overall, the compact fixed blade almost disappears on your side. The handle comes in a choice of walnut or a more practical green canvas Micarta®. The Micarta is contoured nicely, making the handle rest in your hand snugly. The brass rivets and thong tube provide a nice visual contrast. The knife’s beauty lies in its simplicity of design and execution. It proves that no bells and whistles are needed for a cutter to be highly functional.
The sheath is a nicely made leather pouch style with a slight symmetrical taper toward the bottom. The iconic Boker tree logo is stamped into the leather. A sturdy steel pocket clip enables the BFF sheath to attach to or be removed from your belt quickly—no muss, no fuss.
With such a lightweight knife, a big belt loop would be overkill. The knife fits the sheath like a glove, with no rattling or wiggling. The sheath compresses down on the handle to hold it securely inside. When the knife is sheathed, the handle sticks up about an inch, plenty for you to grab onto. It also has a hole for a lanyard.
The Field Grade Enyo is a staple of the Spartan Blades line. It boasts an easily concealed blade designed for either utility or backup personal protection. It shares the same dimensions as its higher-priced sibling in CPM S45VN stainless steel, the Enyo, with the exception that the blade steel is AUS-8 stainless.
The modified clip point blade is 2.68 inches and the knife is 6.25 inches overall. The skeletonized one-piece design simplifies the knife and makes it easy to carry. The handle accommodates two different hand holds, which aids in increasing the knife’s versatility.
Several areas of jimping assist in getting a good non-slip grip. A black epoxy coating throughout provides a low-profile appearance. A paracord lanyard includes a polished Spartan helmet bead, which is pretty neat.
In action the Field Grade Enyo is all business. Don’t mistake it for a small, cute knife. It has attitude and packs a punch! The blade tip is reinforced a bit due to the false edge and penetrates fairly well. Thanks to the way the blade profile tapers, the tip cuts easily. The flat grind and superb edge quality out of the box enable the knife to handle business immediately.
The handle’s various curves seat your hand snug and solidly. The two-thumb rest provides the option of choking up further on the blade for a more reliable grip and improved control. It’s amazing such a small, compact fixed blade can feel so trustworthy in the hand.
When you tackle larger cutting chores, you can choke up on the handle to stabilize the knife and feel in charge at all times. The lack of handle scales means the knife is the bare minimum in bulk.
Those who say they do not like skeletonized knives might want to reconsider with the Field Grade Enyo. You’ll find yourself using it more and more. AUS-8 is well known in the industry for being a good, mid-grade steel, balancing edge holding and economy. It certainly doesn’t disappoint here. It is an excellent choice of steel for a knife of its price point.
The sheath is form-fitting molded plastic riveted for strength. One of the best things about the sheath is how well it locks the knife inside. There is a ramped, notched thumb button on the opening end that when pushed up releases a lock so the knife can exit the sheath. When sheathing the knife you will hear a tiny click indicating the lock has engaged. No amount of tugging on the handle or violent shaking of the sheath upside down can cause the knife to fall out.
This is very well done and a feature not commonly seen, not only on knives of this price class but more expensive ones, too. Included is a belt loop for IWB (inside waistband) carry, as well as a length of paracord for neck carry. The two carry choices promote both discreteness and ease of access.
The Hardcore Hardware MILF-02 Is A Heavy-Duty Folder That’s Designed For Any Challenge Users Can Throw At It.
The MILF-02 folder from Hardcore Hardware is made for hardcore users. It’s big and beefy all the way around, has a dimple-textured handle and frame for an excellent non-slip grip, and a classic drop-point-blade shape.
The hollow grind extends halfway up the blade. Blade steel is CPM S30V stainless with a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating. It offers a classic black color on a framelock design with a flipper tab on the blade. It’s built heavy duty but it still has to cut.
Testing The MILF-02
The first inch of the cuts of the double-walled cardboard went well until the author had to use more pressure to push the cardboard over the thickness of the blade where the hollow grind stops. Once he got used to that, it was easy to overcome the twisting.
Right off the bat, the MILF sliced 20-pound-bond copy paper smoothly. The knife’s weight made the push cuts very easy. There were no snags or hang ups and it was simple to control the width of the slices.
Next: double-walled cardboard. The first inch of the cuts went well, then I had to use more pressure to push the cardboard over the thickness of the blade where the hollow grind stops. Once I got used to hitting this spot, it was easy to overcome the twisting. There were no edge hang ups at all.
I grabbed some 8-ounce leather for some skiving. The MILF was aggressive on every cut and emitted a crunching sound each time. Control was excellent in making fine slices and the handle filled my hand.
Cutting The Hard Stuff
The author gave the 2×4 chunk 20 hard chops and the MILF bit deep on every whack. The edges of each chop were smooth.
It was time for some whittling. The folder seemed to want to bite deep into the wood. I started off with a fine curly-cue and by the end of the cut the edge was well into the wood. The MILF didn’t hesitate at all on the deeper cuts; it just kept curling the wood. It is a heavy cutter for sure.
I put a 2×4 chunk in my vise and gave the wood 20 hard chops. The MILF bit deep on every whack. The edges of each chop were smooth. Lockup was still at 100 percent. The knife is a great chopper with the bigger handle and all, but the inside edges of the handle need softening. They’re a tad on the sharp side
I took the same 2×4 and used the folder to split it into smaller pieces. All it took was a light tap from a dead blow hammer and the wood split with a pop. The thicker blade worked great for this phase of the testing. Lockup was still at 100 percent.
Half-inch sisal rope was next on the slicing block. The MILF crunched through 200 clean cuts very quickly, showing no signs of slowing down. I stopped cutting to save on rope. Edge holding was excellent and the heat treatment was great.
To take the testing further, I grabbed a deer antler for some more whacking. I gave the antler 20 hard wallops and the blade edge suffered no rolling or chipping. I did manage to remove a very thin wire edge on the blade. However, the main edge was still very sharp.
I returned to the paper slice to recheck the edge. I noticed a few hang ups and found more of the wire edge still intact. Two strops on some leather and the edge was back to original sharpness. Excellent job on the heat treat!
Final Thoughts
I would soften the inside edges of the handle for a smoother grip. Beyond that, the MILF is a heavy-duty using folder that holds a great edge. It’s too big for my tastes but a cutter it is.
Denis Tyrell’s Ice Blue Bowie Showcases The Journeyman Smith’s Skills At Forging A Blade And Stylizing A Knife
Denis Tyrell’s Ice Blue Bowie is one cool sub-hilt fixed blade—so cool, in fact, that it recently won The Bowie Knife Challenge shown on 18 different YouTube channels.
The 14-inch bowie features a near-full-flat-ground blade of Tyrell’s Snowflake mosaic damascus, a stabilized wood handle and hot-blued fittings of a twisted damascus. The bowie is in a takedown construction with the pommel nut securing the handle and guard to the knife.
Tyrell, who helped organize the challenge along with a friend, won the first challenge this past June too, which consisted of competing gyutos shown across 10 different YouTube channels. Each winner was determined by a vote of viewers watching the makers.
You can search “Tyrell Knifeworks” on YouTube to watch the past challenges and see the knifemakers in action. You can watch Tyrell make the Ice Blue Bowie in all its glory below.
Tyrell Knifeworks
Tyrell is a journeyman smith who moved to California in 2001 from his native Canada. He specializes in custom damascus knives. From his shop in Livermore, a moderate-sized city on the Eastern edge of San Francisco Bay, Tyrell runs a series of forging courses.
His courses range from introductory classes in how to forge or how to make your first damascus pattern all the way up to more intense fare. He teaches specific classes on mosaic and feather damascus as well as, one of his most popular courses, a course teaching folks how to make copper-layered damascus.
For more information, go to YouTube, enter “Tyrell Knifeworks”, and look for the challenge of your choice.You can watch Denis make the Ice Blue Bowie in the video below.
Ice Blue Bowie Knife Specs Knife: Ice Blue Bowie Bladelength: 8 inches Blade material: Snowflake damascus Handle: Stabilized wood Fittings: Twisted damascus Steels: 1095 and 15N20 (both the blade and fittings) Overall length: 14 inches Maker’s list price for a similar piece: $2,000
