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Knifemaking: Frame Handle Construction

BLADE Staff
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Knifemaking: Frame Handle Construction

KNIFE SHOP BY JASON FRY

Are you up to the challenge of frame handle construction?

Frame handle construction for knives has been around for centuries. Historical examples of many Eastern styles like the kard, khyber and yataghan often feature ornamented frame handles. Nineteenth-century knives attributed to James Black and some of the early American bowies also had frame handle construction. Though it’s been around a long time, the frame handle remains a viable modern construction method for today’s custom knifemakers.

There are many ways to crack the nut/skin the cat on frame handle construction. This article will walk through the frame handle process and point out particular problems and potential solutions for those who wish to pursue building a frame handled knife.

3 REASONS WHY

Frame handle construction is best defined as using a wrap-around “frame” to conceal the tang of a hidden tang knife. The first question many people ask regarding a frame handle construction is, “Why would you want to do it that way?”

My first thought goes back to the earlier days of the internet when forums were at their peak, and fine makers like ABS master smith Bruce Bump took the time to document “work in progress” (WIP) threads. Bruce had a fine frame handle WIP on the KnifeDogs.com forum in 2013, and the consensus at the time was that you build a frame handle for quite a few reasons, though the first one is “because you can!”

The author used frame handle construction for his hunter in a blade of 33-layer damascus, a wrought iron guard and scales taken from a fence post made in 1912 from bois d’arc wood, aka osage orange. The spacers are World War II practice bomb material. (Cory Martin knife image)

A frame handle is a much more complex build process than your standard full- or stick-tang knife. However, in addition to the show of skill by the maker, frame handle construction has a few distinct advantages that make the complexity worth the effort:

  • A frame handle allows for the look of a full tang, but with the guard-fitting techniques of a stick tang. For a forged stick-tang-knife design that needs a guard, a frame handle allows the use of full-tang-style handle construction;
  • A frame handle is a good way to use scales or slabs on a stick-tang knife. If you have a good set of stag or mammoth slabs, or if you have stabilized wood slabs that might be too fragile for through-tang construction, the frame handle allows you to use the materials on a stick-tang knife; and;
  • The use of a frame handle gives the maker another area to embellish the knife. Some frames are great for engraving, while others may highlight a damascus pattern. Either way, the frame makes the embellishment stand out in ways that are harder to accomplish on a full-tang knife.

HOW to DO IT

At a basic level, the frame of a frame handle is a piece of material, usually metal, that wraps around a stick tang and mimics the look of a full-tang knife. This presents some challenges that have resulted in a few different creative solutions. 

An exploded view shows an ABS journeyman smith Karl Andersen frame handle construction knife before assembly. (Karl Andersen image)
  • Challenge 1: The tang must fit inside the frame. Some makers insist on precision so there are no gaps and the fit is tight. Others concede that the handle will be held together with mechanical fasteners and sealed with epoxy, so a precise fit between the frame and the tang is not necessary.
  • Challenge 2: All parts of the handle must be securely fastened together. I sat through a class with ABS master smith Mike Williams in which he admonished the students, “Don’t trust in the magic of chemistry” by putting your faith only in the strength of glue. Likewise, veteran bladesmith Jerry Fisk challenges makers to think ahead to what their knives might be like in 100 or 1,000 years, and recommends a mechanical connection that won’t fail over time.

One way to address this challenge is to use pins. If you pin the scales to the frame, pin the completed handle assembly to the tang and follow up with glue, there’s no opportunity for failure. Some choose to make all the pins visible as an artistic element, while others take advantage of hidden pins for all but the one through the tang. Another way is to use a threaded fastener. Bladesmith Salem Straub recently illustrated the technique on a frame handle WIP on his Instagram feed. Salem used a threaded fastener in an internal slot in the frame to mechanically lock all the parts together tightly (Image 1). The handle material is relieved on the inside to accommodate the fastener.

Another way to use a threaded connection is to thread the end of the tang and use a fastener on the handle butt. An advantage of this approach is that the fastener itself can become part of the embellishment.

  • Challenge 3 is the complex fit-up between all of the knife’s elements. Frame handle construction naturally doesn’t excuse a poor guard fit, but it also provides other places for gaps and misalignment. Once again, there are several potential solutions to alignment problems.

One is the use of alignment pins to make sure everything is secure. Pins on the end of the frame go through any spacers and into holes in the back of the guard so that each part indexes the same during assembly. Some makers, including Bruce Bump in the aforementioned epic WIP, advocate for leaving metal tabs on the end of the frame and fitting the tabs into similar holes on the back of the guard (Images 2 and 3). In both cases, there’s a mechanical connection that prevents the guard, spacers and frame from rotating out of alignment around the center axis of the handle. Either way, when you build a frame handle, the construction will require you to assemble and disassemble the knife repeatedly, so you’ll need some mechanical way to keep things lined up.

Above: Some makers advocate for leaving metal tabs on the end of the frame and fitting the tabs into similar holes on the back of the guard. In both cases, there’s a mechanical connection that prevents the guard, spacers and frame from rotating out of alignment around the center axis of the handle. (Karl Andersen images)

Another fit-up challenge is the overall requirement for clean-fitting joints with no gaps. It sounds simpler than it is, but two surfaces that are dead flat will join together without a gap. The challenge of a multi-piece frame handle with a guard and a few spacers is that you are creating a multitude of surface joints, and every single surface must be dead flat. At a minimum, you’ll have a joint between the guard and frame, and also between the frame sides and the handle material. Any bump or wiggle on any surface and you’ll have a gap in the final product. Flatness comes in degrees. You can get a fairly flat surface on a platen, flatter on a disk, and still flatter on a surface plate or surface grinder. You have to make the joints as flat as you can with the tools you have available if you want a gap-free fit.  

I tend to prefer the look of a tapered tang on a full-tang knife, so I’ve started tapering the frame of my frame handles as well. Others stick with a full thickness frame, where the thickness closely matches that of the blade at the ricasso. Some add spacers between the tang and handle material, while others choose to go with the frame and handle slabs only. 

Another fit challenge is presented by the frame itself. In order to adequately finish the visible surface of the frame, whether by simple polishing, bluing or etching, or by engraving, the frame must be 100 percent at final-grit finish prior to final glue up. Many makers learned to make a full-tang knife by finishing the front edge of the scales, gluing the knife together, shaping the scales down to the exposed tang, and then polishing the handle and the tang at the same time. That method will not work for a frame handle that needs to be blued or etched. Personally, I tend to use dummy pins to fit the entire handle assembly together, then grind the scales down to the frame. In his recent Instagram example, Salem Straub used small screws to hold the handle material to the frame. 

With regard to the relationship between the handle material and the frame itself, whichever method you choose, it is important that the fit be maintained consistently all the way around the frame. (Jason Fry image)

With regard to the relationship between the handle material and the frame itself, some choose to leave the material slightly proud of the frame for a “museum” or “heirloom” fit. Others prefer the material to fit flush to the tang. Less commonly, some makers round the frame and leave it slightly proud of the material. Whichever you choose, it is important that the fit be maintained consistently all the way around the frame, from the joint at the guard on the top all the way down to the joint at the guard on the bottom.

Once the profile is set, I polish the handle and the frame together down to final grit, and then apply any surface finish to the frame itself. Once all parts are 100 percent complete, they can be glued together as a final step.

ABS master smith Mike Quesenberry used frame-handle construction on his dog-bone bowie. (Eric Eggly/PointSeven image)

WHEN to DO it

So when should you try making a frame handle? In my mind, if you can make clean full- and stick-tang knives, you could be up to the challenge. If you have slabs of exceptional handle material that deserve more than a simple full-tang knife, a frame handle is a way to step up and put the materials on full display. If you have a knife in mind where the frame and guard need to be blued, damascus or engraved, a frame handle is the way to go.

A frame handle knife has its advantages, but the complexity of the construction presents plenty of challenges. As a skilled maker, you may choose to rise to the challenge of a frame handle just to show that you can.

For more information on frame handle construction contact the author at [email protected].

The Author

A voting member of The Knifemakers’ Guild and president of the Texas Knifemakers’ Guild, Jason Fry also is the author of the most entertaining new book, Knifemaking Hacks: 384 Tips To Make Knives Like The Pros.  For information on how to buy your copy visit https://www.gundigeststore.com/product/knifemaking-hacks-384-tips-to-make-knives-like-the-pros/.

5 Angle-Guide Knife Sharpeners That Make The Cut

Dexter Ewing
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5 Angle-Guide Knife Sharpeners That Make The Cut

The proper angle is key to a sharp blade. Here are the angle-guide sharpeners that ensure you’ll always get it right.

A big part of sharpening, aside from proper sharpener selection, is how to select and maintain the proper angle of the blade to the sharpener. In fact, the key to successfully sharpening any blade regardless of the grade of steel is being able to maintain that angle. Ever try sharpening freehand on a bench stone with little experience doing so? The reason folks get frustrated with learning to sharpen is they don’t keep the angles consistent. It’s all about the angles. You must take into account what use your knife will see and sometimes that determines the specific angle to use.

You probably know of the angle guide kits with a metal clamp that affixes to the blade and has uprights on either end with a series of holes that correspond to various degrees of angles. Such kits all help instill confidence and the ability to subtract guesswork at maintaining the desired angle.

SHARPENER TYPES
There are plenty of sharpeners capable of reproducing keen edges. Avoid the pull-through types that require you to drag the blade through. Those are set at one angle and use carbide to get the job done. These will ruin a blade in time, and I don’t recommend them. You need a sharpening kit that’ll help establish and hold a consistent angle. All you need to be concerned with is making the motions to get the edge sharp.

The Lansky Deluxe Diamond Knife Sharpening System is one of the oldest angle guide kits on the market. Four various grits of diamond-coated hones are featured, including extra-coarse for fast work of reviving dull blades. The sturdy aluminum clamp holds the knife securely.

Lansky’s four-stone Deluxe Diamond System Precision Knife Sharpening Kit is the best the company offers in angle guide clamp units. It includes an extra coarse hone great for reprofiling edge angles. It also has coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated hones for fine-tuning the edge once it’s been established. The aluminum clamp is sturdy and offers four edge angles: 17, 20, 25, and 30 degrees. The kit stores in a sturdy plastic storage case. MSRP: $114.99.

GATCO offers the Ultimate Diamond Hone Sharpening System, which is similar to the Lansky. Featuring coarse-, medium-, and fine-grit diamond-coated abrasives, the kit includes Ultimate Finishing and triangular-shaped serration hones, too. It works on plain, serrated, and partially serrated edges. The hones are wider and longer for more effective use and have molded-in integral handguards for safety. There’s also a plastic storage case. MSRP: $119.99. 

 

To sharpen the CPM S90V blades with the SelectEdge 14 degree angle of its Hidden Canyon Hunter and Saddle Mountain Skinner, Benchmade offers the model 50082 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool. Designed in conjunction with and manufactured by Work Sharp, this compact sharpener incorporates a fine grit ceramic rod and a leather strap on the backside. Built-in guides set the blade at the correct 14-degree angle. The idea with this one is to apply frequent edge touchups. A premium steel, S90V is notoriously difficult to resharpen, a difficulty negated via frequent edge maintenance sessions with the 50082. MSRP: $25.

DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an angle guide kit.
DMT’s Magna-Guide angle kit includes a magnetic guide rod and sturdy blade clamp with adjustable angles. Use
any model DMT Double Sided Diafold folding fi le and you have two sharpeners in one—a freehand fi le and an
angle guide kit.

For knives without the SelectEdge technology, Benchmade offers the Edge Maintenance Tool, also designed with and manufactured by Work Sharp. It uses a fine-grit ceramic rod and a leather strop but in a more compact folding format with a pocket clip for easy carry. As with the 14 Degree SelectEdge Guided Hone Tool, built-in guides assist in achieving the optimal angle for edge restoration. The Edge Maintenance Tool works well with pocketknives, fixed blades, and tactical folders—pretty much any knife. MSRP: $50.

DOWNSIZED 2X72
For the more advanced sharpeners among you, Work Sharp offers the Ken Onion Elite Sharpening System, a variable speed motorized unit employing long-lasting flexible abrasive belts made by Norton Abrasives. It’s pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2x72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.
The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener is pretty much a downsized version of a larger and much more expensive 2×72 slack belt grinder used by many knifemakers.

Designed by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Ken Onion, the Elite makes quick work of bringing completely dull and/or damaged knife edges back to life and is fully adjustable for applying edges between 10 and 35 degrees. The abrasive belts measure 1 by 18 inches and make quick work of any sharpening task. Once you become comfortable with how the sharpener operates, you can consistently grind an even edge on your blades. (Author’s note: Motorized sharpening is best left to those with sharpening experience.) MSRP: $199.95.

Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) offers the Double Sided Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System centered around the company’s Double Sided Diafold folding diamond files. The Magna-Guide System features the Aligner Blade Guide clamp with integrated, adjustable angle guides. A metal guide rod affixes securely to the Double Sided Diafold file via a large rare earth magnet. Attached to an FWCX Extra Coarse/Coarse Double Sided Diafold, the manual system can easily reprofile an edge to any one of seven pre-set angles.

DMT’s Double Sided Diafold diamond files are built well, highly effective, and among the best compact sharpeners on the market. One of the best things about the Magna-Guide is you can use the Double Sided Diafold files as stand-alone sharpeners without the guide rod and angle guide clamp. Consequently, you get a guided sharpening system and a standalone sharpener for the price of one. The Magna-Guide Kit’s MSRP: $27.49 (works with any Double Sided Diafold file).

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TOPS Little Bugger: Svelte-Bladed Straight-Edge

Abe Elias
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TOPS Little Bugger: Svelte-Bladed Straight-Edge

Ultra-thin and razor-sharp, the TOPS Little Bugger makes for a nimble and practical EDC fixed blade.

What The Little Bugger Has To Offer:

  • Thin blade makes for a light and nimble knife.
  • Straight edge with a saber grind makes quick work of most jobs.
  • Sturdy Micarta handle is ample enough for a solid purchase.

I have reviewed more TOPS Knives models than I can remember. Some have been hit-and-miss and others have been pretty good with just an issue or two. My biggest complaint with TOPS knives over the years has been their blade geometry. Blade profiles, handles, and sheaths have all worked out in some of the designs. As for the blade geometry, I have always thought, But only if they went a little thinner!

The Little Bugger’s sheath makes for a great little belt carry that provides quick, easy access to the blade.
The Little Bugger’s sheath makes for a great little belt carry that provides quick, easy access to the blade.

Thin isn’t the issue with the company’s Little Bugger fixed blade. The blade is thin and cuts like a razor. I couldn’t be more ecstatic with it—seriously. As a knife reviewer, sometimes I find it hard to share what I think about a knife—if I hate it, someone will say I don’t know what I’m talking about, and if I really like it, someone will call me a paid shill.

Well, let the haters hate.

The Skinny

The Little Bugger has a nice wharncliff e-style blade that gives a good articulated tip very similar to a utility knife. TOPS uses a saber grind to form the geometry—oh, and did I mention it was thin? TOPS not only puts a nice, high grind on the blade but starts out with thin stock. To begin with, the blade measures only .9-inch thick. The Little Bugger cuts like a razor. It was a sheer pleasure to use right out of the box. For once, I’m not even going to complain about the choil, though when I first started cutting with it I couldn’t resist the what-if urge and strapped the blade.

You can peel a lime with many knives, but the straight edge of the Little Bugger excels at the task. A little knife with a fi ne edge can do a range of chores, from semi-heavy to delicate
You can peel a lime with many knives, but the straight edge of the Little Bugger excels at the task. A little
knife with a fi ne edge can do a range of chores, from semi-heavy to delicate

Accessories

The sheath is spot on. It is not big and clunky but snug fitting with a crisp lock. Best of all, the fit is so good there was no notorious plastic rattle during carry—it is quiet as a church mouse. (Though oddly enough, I can’t really tell you how quiet a church mouse is because I’ve never heard one.)

I know many like the Little Bugger style as a neck knife but TOPS includes a belt clip with this knife, and I see why. Between belt-carry clip and a tether carry system, you can EDC this little fixed blade with no problem. I won’t summarize what I think of the Little Bugger. If you haven’t got that by now, I haven’t written well enough. I will say, however, that now that TOPS has found this level of thin, I am excited and filled with anticipation as to see what other small fixed EDCs the company releases in the future.

Little Bugger Specs:
Overall Length: 5.75 inches
Blade Length: 2.38 inches
Blade Grind: Saber
Blade Material: 1095 Spring Steel
Handle Material: Tan Canvas Micarta
Carry: Injection-Molded Sheath
Weight: 37 ounces W/Sheath
Style: Fixed Blade
MSRP: $129
topsknives.com

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First-Rate Fliers: Best Throwing Knives Tested

James Ayres
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First-Rate Fliers: Best Throwing Knives Tested

Fun to fling, today’s throwing knives fly like the wind.

The Throwing Knives Tested:

We used a variety of throws to fully test the knives: handhold, blade hold, overhand, underhand, no-spin from three-to-five paces, half-spin from five to seven paces, and full-spin from seven to ten paces. Throwing at longer distances than this is, for me, frivolous and fruitless. Our targets were the sawn end of a pine stump on its side and a pine tree we are planning to take down. The stump was from a cut last year when we were clearing an area. It had seasoned somewhat and was a tougher target than the standing tree, so penetration was deeper in the standing tree.

Boker Magnum Mini Bo-Kri

Designed by veteran knife thrower John Bailey, the Boker Magnum Mini Bo-Kri is the kind of throwing knife a performer would choose to use on stage.

It has a flashy, fierce-looking recurve blade and you know at first glance it’s a throwing knife. The largest and heftiest of the three review knives, the Bo-Kri is well balanced and flew true with each throw, handle hold or blade hold. Its weight aided penetration in both stump and standing tree. Its design is best for handle throws—it just feels better that way.

CAUTION: A thing to keep in mind is that with the Bo-Kri’s recurve blade there’s a good deal of spinning edge, which means that not only the point is sharp. You should ensure your target area is clear of people when throwing any knife, but in this case a deflection would send a long edge spinning wildly. A nice leather sheath is included.

Boker Magnum Mini Bo-Kri Specs
Blade Length: 5.71”
Blade Steel: 420J2 stainless
Blade Thicknes: .25”
Blade Pattern: Drop point
Blade Grind: Sabre, recurve
Blade Finish: Brushed
Edge Type: Plain
Weight: 8.1 ozs.
Overall Length: 10.71”
Continent Of Origin: Asia
MSRP: $34.95

Kizlyar Supreme Strij

I have the strong impression that Russians are serious about throwing knives and actually use them in the field. The Strij by Kizlyar Supreme would be my choice if I were going to hunt rabbits with a throwing knife like that 10-year-old kid—which I would not. Now I know enough to use the knife to make a throwing stick, spear, bow, etc. Nonetheless, the Strij appears to have been designed with field use in mind. Kizlyar’s information says the knife was designed by Russian “Throwing Knife Instructor Grandmaster” V.S. Kovrov. I think it’s amazing there is such a thing as a Throwing Knife Grandmaster, and it illustrates just how serious Russians are about this skill.

The Strij is balanced precisely in the middle, which facilitates both handle and blade throws, as well as spin and no-spin throws. Kizlyar’s promotional material also says that “the Strij definitely requires a master’s touch to be accurate.” I disagree. My son, Justin, stuck it deep in the center of the target with his first throw. This one is a keeper.

Kizlyar Supreme Strij
Blade Length: 5.25”
Blade Steel: Stainless
Rockwell Hardness: 42 (spine) and 45 (edge) HRC
Blade Style: Modified dagger
Blade Grind: Sabre
Blade Finish: Brushed
Edge Type: Plain
Weight: 6.7 ozs.
Overall Length: 8.5”
Country Of Origin: Russia
MSRP: $42

Colonial Throwing Knife

My impression of Colonial’s throwing entries? They look like ninja knives—black, radically curved, lightweight, perfect for a ninja. Colonial promotes these as “sport” or “pastime” knives to be used like darts. I get that. They’re balanced like darts, weight forward, which makes accurate handle-hold, no-spin throws easy. Even so, we also threw them with a blade hold and a spin, which worked fine. I can see a group of folks with a handful of these knives and a dartboard-like target. I can also imagine a ninja slinging a handful of these at pursuing samurai. (I have an active imagination.)

If you’re going for penetration with these knives, velocity is the thing. With little mass and weight, velocity is what will give them the power to penetrate. Whipping your arm—not your wrist—adds velocity. These little guys are fun to throw. Well-made nylon sheaths house each of the two Colonial throwers (they come in a set) until needed.

Colonial Throwing Knife
Blade Length: 4.5”
Blade Steel: 440A stainless
Blade Thickness: .08”
Rockwell Hardness: 57 HRC
Blade Style: Dagger
Blade Grind: Sabre
Blade Finish: Brushed
Edge Type: Plain
Weight: 3.2 ozs.
Overall Length: 8.5”
Country Of Origin: China
MSRP: $29.99 (set of two; includes a nylon carry case and sheaths)

Tips On Throwing Knives

The Bo-Kri and the Colonial knives are clearly designed as dedicated throwing knives, not all-around tools. The Kizlyar Strij, though also designed as a throwing knife, is quite usable as a general-purpose knife. None of the test knives came with paper-cutting sharp edges, as is proper for throwing knives. They can, however, be sharpened. They are also tempered fairly soft, as is proper so they won’t break if a powerful throw misses the target and the knife hits something hard. This means they won’t hold an edge long if used much. That’s OK. Edge holding is much overrated. If you want these knives to have a sharp edge, a few strokes on a good stone will do it. So, too, when they go dull—a few strokes will re-sharpen them.

If you want to throw knives, here’s a couple of tips: keep your wrist stiff when releasing the knife. Do not snap your wrist. Let the power come from your body, as when throwing a football, baseball, or javelin. Throw at a big, soft target and make sure there’s a large, safe backstop for when you miss—as you will at first if you’re new to the game. Even veterans miss on occasion. As you progress you can move on to smaller targets and moving targets. Have patience and, most of all, have fun.

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BIG Blades: 4 Monster Choppers for the Bush

James Ayres
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BIG Blades: 4 Monster Choppers for the Bush

BY JAMES MORGAN AYRES

Wherever folks live close to the earth, they use big knives

Little knives are convenient to carry but, if you have a lot of work to do, big knives are it. I’ve lived and worked with indigenous peoples in Latin America and Southeast Asia and found that wherever folks live close to the earth, they use big knives—machetes, parangs, goloks, bolos and the like. They use them for everything from rough work such as cutting poles and opening coconuts, to dressing out pigs and game, to delicate work such as slicing mangoes.

The advantage of the big blade was illustrated to me one day when I was working alongside a villager who, with his bolo and its 14-inch blade, cut wood for a fire, bamboo poles for a cooking rack, lopped off a banana leaf on which he filleted two large fish and sliced them thin as a sushi chef—all in the time it took me to bring down a few stalks of bamboo with my hair-shaving-sharp Randall Model 1.

We reviewed the test knives with that standard in mind. We chopped and split wood and sliced meat and tomatoes. We also, just because, cut hanging rubber hose and slashed through water-filled plastic bottles.

 

LONG, TALL & HANDSOME: Boker Arbolito El Gigante


The Boker Arbolito El Gigante is a handsome classic bowie with a stonewashed blade, comfortable handle and nice leather sheath. Balance is excellent, all very much in the bowie tradition. Construction is top quality; so is performance. It cleaved 2-inch pine saplings with one stroke. The quarter-inch-thick spine was brought down to a well-supported edge fine enough to slice tomatoes, and slice meat thin enough to see light through the slices. We slashed rubber hose and the water bottles with ease.

Like all well-designed and crafted bowies, this is a versatile all-around knife.

A tree branch succumbs to the reflective blade of the Boker Arbolito El Gigante. It cleaved 2-inch pine saplings in one stroke.

BOKER ARBOLITO EL GIGANTE
Blade Length: 9.25”
Blade Steel: Bohler N695 stainless
Blade Thickness: .24”
Blade Grind: Flat
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Handle Thickness: .94”
Handle Material: Green Micarta®
Weight: 15.75 ozs.|
Overall Length: 14.75”
Sheath: Leather
Country of Origin: Argentina
MSRP: $229

The El Gigante also proved its mettle after chopping wood by slicing a tomato nice and thin.

 

SEMPER FI! The KA-BAR Gunny


The KA-BAR Gunny is a hybrid design that resembles a bolo. I suspect R. Lee Ermey, the unforgettable Gunny who serves as the knife’s namesake, spent some time in jungles because this combination chopper/slicer’s performance is on par with village-forged bolos I’ve used in Southeast Asia, and that’s a high compliment. Its forward weight and terrific blade design promote efficient chopping.

The KA-BAR Gunny chomps into dry pine. Its forward weight and blade design promote efficient chopping.

We cut through 3-to-4-inch-thick saplings with two strokes. We took down a tree with a 6-inch-thick truck just because we could. After the chopping the blade was still sharp enough for camp kitchen work. The belly, good balance and fine edge combined to make slicing meat and vegetables a pleasure. Slashing hanging rubber hose and the water bottle were a piece of cake. The comfortable handle lends itself both to heavy chopping and fine meat cutting, which is unusual.

The Gunny is an excellent all-around bush knife. The sheath has a pocket for a sharpening stone, which was not included with the review model.

After chopping wood, the Gunny sliced tomatoes like a chef’s knife.

KA-BAR GUNNY
Designer: R. Lee “Gunny” Ermey
Blade Length: 9.75”
Blade Material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel
Blade Width: 2”
Blade Thickness: .2”
Blade Grind: Flat
Handle Width: 1.5”
Handle Thickness: .94”
Handle Material: Wood
Weight: 15.29 ozs.
Overall Length: 15.5”
Sheath: Leather
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $292

 

RAZOR SHARP: Medford Knife & Tool Bonfire


The Medford Knife & Tool Bonfire came from the maker absolutely razor sharp! The blade design is interesting in that we do not often see a contemporary styled drop point and hollow grind on such a big blade. I don’t know the Rockwell, but the steel is hard and tough. It was just as razor sharp after we put it through its paces as when we started.

The Bonfire comes with a well-fitted Kydex sheath.

The fine edge made for a very good slicer and slasher and lopped off thin branches with one cut. The hollow grind tended to bind when chopping wood, though that’s to be expected—hollow grinds aren’t chopping designs. It’s better to think of this knife as a well-designed and crafted big knife rather than a bush tool such as a panga or kukri. It sliced rubber hose with a snap of the wrist and slashed through water bottles with more consistency than the other review blades and cut meat just fine. You probably could dress out a bear with it.

Use it as a big knife on soft materials and you won’t be disappointed. It comes with a well-fitted Kydex sheath.


The Medford Knife & Tool Bonfire slashed through water-filled plastic bottles with more consistency than the other review blades.

MEDFORD KNIFE & TOOL BONFIRE
Blade Length: 8.25”
Blade Material: CPM 3V carbon steel
Blade Thickness: .24”
Blade Grind: Hollow
Handle Thickness: .64”
Handle Material: G-10
Weight: 19.16 ozs.
Overall Length: 13”
Sheath: Nylon
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $450

 

CHEF’S CHOPPER: The TOPS Bestia


The TOPS Bestia is just a beast. A kukri-styled 13-inch blade and hefty weight make it the blade of choice for serious chopping or zombie cleaving. We hacked though a 3-inch sapling with one stroke, and used it to clear a stand of saplings and brush. The handle remained comfortable during an hour or so of work. Heavy as a small hatchet, it is more versatile and safer in use, especially in thick brush. During many survival classes, I’ve seen more injuries from hatchets than from big blades with their longer cutting edges.

The Kydex sheath is formed to fit the unmistakable kukri-style blade of the Bestia.

Given its heft, blade design and chopping ability, the Bestia is surprisingly usable in the camp kitchen. We found it could slice meat quite well, allowing for adjustments in maneuverability due to its blade length.

The TOPS Knives Bestia’s kukri-styled 13-inch blade and hefty weight made it the blade of choice for serious chopping or, as the author puts it, “zombie cleaving.”

TOPS KNIVES BESTIA
Designer: Leo Espinoza
Blade Length: 13”
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Rockwell Hardness: 56-58 HRC
Blade Width: 2.25”
Blade Thickness: .25”
Blade Grind: Flat
Handle Width: 2.125”
Handle Thickness: .97”
Handle Material: Green Micarta®
Frame/Liner: Micarta
Weight: 1 lb., 13.18 ozs.
Overall Length: 19.5”
Sheath: Kydex
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $300

 

VERSATILE BUSH TOOLS
If you haven’t spent much time with a big blade, try one. Work with it for a while. Direct close attention to your work and you’ll find a good big blade to be a terrific, versatile bush tool.

Katz Knives Stockman Executive: Complete Review

Msg Kim Breed (ret.)
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Katz Knives Stockman Executive: Complete Review

Katz three-blade Stockman Executive Drop Point stacks up against the knives of old school.

Most in my age group were raised with a slip joint knife. It’s the knife Dad always carried in his pocket. Being raised with a dad who was a commercial fisherman, I used knives as tools every day—everything from cleaning fish to making fishing nets.

The main blade carved nice curly-cues with great control. The sheepsfoot had a tendency to dig deeper into the pine for thicker curly-cues. The spey was about midway on the curly-cues and depth of cut.
The main blade carved nice curly-cues with great control. The sheepsfoot had a tendency to dig deeper into the pine for thicker curly-cues. The spey was about midway on the curly-cues and depth of cut.

My father, Jacob, always used a three-bladed stockman for working with twine while making or repairing 90-foot trawl nets. It would take him 30 days or more to hand-tie every square in the massive nets. He would always work with the knife’s smallest blade. When it was sharpened down to a nub, he would go to the next blade. The knife would last him five years of heavy work. Then he would put it in his junk drawer and start using a new one. Only carbon steel blades knives were allowed—stainless steel had not evolved to the performance levels of today.

Katz Knives has taken old-school looks and added blades of high-performance XT-80 stainless steel on its Stockman Executive Drop Point. Let’s see if Dad would have approved.

TEST ’EM UP
In a quick sharpness test on 20-pound bond copy paper, all three blades sliced cleanly and smoothly. The shorter blades can be a bit challenging till you get used to them. The sharpening notch/choil caught on the paper during testing.

My wife, Melissa, wanted to play with the knife so I got an apple from the fridge for her to slice. The drop-point main/master blade worked great for sectioning the apple into wedges. Next was the sheepsfoot blade for seed removal and skinning the wedges. (The wedges were yummy.)

The main blade crunched to 74 clean cuts on the half-inch sisal rope before the edge started to slide.
The main blade crunched to 74 clean cuts on the half-inch sisal rope before the edge started to slide.

Single-walled cardboard was next. All blades bit into it aggressively. The cardboard got hung up on the sharpening notches of the two smaller blades while slicing. As a result, I had to slow down the slicing and control the edge placement. The master blade made short work of the cardboard.

It was time to make some firesticks as camping season was in full swing and I needed a fire to roast marshmallows. The master blade gave me nice curly-cues with great control. The sheepsfoot blade had a tendency to dig deeper into the pine for thicker curly-cues. The spey blade was about midway on the curly-cues and depth of cut. SAFETY NOTE: Care must be taken while doing heavy cutting with a slip joint. It does not take much pressure to accidentally close a blade on a finger.

To make kindling from end cuts of a fence, I softly batonned the main blade into the slabs. This worked very well and smoothly with no damage to the blade. Again, care was taken to avoid a blade closing on a finger.

The final test was cutting half-inch sisal rope. Only the main blade was consistent during cutting due to its ample enough length giving me the stand-off needed to make crunching cuts. The XT-80 stainless crunched to 74 clean cuts before the edge started to slide.

Melissa uses the drop-point main blade to cut the apple into nice bite-sized sections.
Melissa uses the drop-point main blade to cut the apple into nice bite-sized sections.

This knife is well-executed in design and manufacture.

REPORT
Using the stockman was a very nice experience and provided good memories. You have three blades to work with, so you should always have a sharp edge on hand. The Katz is a very welcome addition to your pocket.

CHANGES
I love the straight edge of a sheepsfoot blade. I would add a midsize wharncliffe blade instead of the smaller spey.

Stockman Executive Drop Point Specs
Company: Katz Knives
Blade Lengths/Patterns: 23∕4” drop point, 23∕16” sheepsfoot & 2” spey
Blade Steel: XT-80 stainless
Handel: Stag bone
Bolsters: Nickel silver
Liners: Brass
Weight: 2 ozs.
Closed Length: 3.75”
Country Of Origin: Japan
MSRP: $181.90

To learn more about the Stockman Executive, please visit katzknives.com

Also Read:

4 Cool Cleavers in all Different Sizes

Pat Covert
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4 Cool Cleavers in all Different Sizes

Latest cleavers are a hot ticket on the camp scene

By Pat Covert

The cleaver has been sneaking up on the cutlery market for several years now. However ironic it may seem, along with the razor, it was in demand on the tactical market before it became popular for culinary attire on the camping/survival scene.

Not anymore. Cleavers are now making their case as viable tools for outdoor use.

An interesting FYI here: Why do most cleavers have a curved blade edge? The curve allows the butcher to rock the blade back and forth to make sure he or she cuts the ends of the meat cleanly.

 

SMALL ’n SLICEY: CRKT Folts Minimalist Cleaver Blackout

The Columbia River Knife & Tool Folts Minimalist Cleaver Blackout is the most diminutive of the test bunch. It’s billed as a neck knife and aptly so. The blade features a hollow grind for enhanced slicing, and the deeply finger-grooved—three grooves total—handle has orange G-10 scales. All black is also available.

The diminutive CRKT Minimalist Blackout is more suited for small tasks than food prep. The blade was wicked sharp and whipped through 3/8-inch rappelling rope with verve.

A cleaver this light is not made for chopping—there’s simply not enough weight behind the blade. That said, the Minimalist Cleaver is not without utility. The old rope knives had deep, flat-edged blades preferred by many sailors, so I decided to try the small cleaver out on some 3/8-inch rappelling stock. The blade is wicked sharp and proved plenty long enough to slice through the rope in clean, one-stroke pulls. It even handled upper-guided pull-throughs with ease. All in all, the Minimalist Cleaver is a handy little neck knife—as long as you use it for slicing.

At 1.7 ounces, the CRKT Minimalist Blackout is hardly noticeable when carried about the neck. The small necker is handy around camp. Those who cut rope, such as rock climbers, will find it handy on the inclines.

SPECS: CRKT FOLTS MINIMALIST CLEAVER BLACKOUT
Blade length: 2.125”
Blade steel: 5Cr15MoV stainless
Handle material: G-10
Special features: Deep finger grooves 
Weight: 1.7 ozs.
Overall length: 5”
Sheath: Black thermoplastic w/neck cord
Country of origin: China
MSRP: $39.99

 

SLICK ’n WICKED: RMJ Tactical Jackdaw

The RMJ Tactical Jackdaw is a small cleaver with a blade not unlike a miniature dao, a type of Chinese sword. In true RMJ fashion, the Jackdaw’s hollow-ground blade has upscale steel with a tungsten Cerakote® finish. The handle includes a nice index finger groove. The scales are machined blaze olive G-10 over orange liners, with diagonal grooves for enhanced purchase. The sheath can be worn for horizontal outside carry or reconfigured vertically inside the waistband.

RMJ Tactical’s Jackdaw is more of a slicer than a chopper, and excelled at taking off super clean slices of Boudin Cajun sausage. Self-defense may be the Jackdaw’s primary purpose but it’s at home in the camp as well.

The Jackdaw is another small cleaver that lends itself to slicing more than chopping. The blade rivals that found on many tactical knives but since the focus here is on camping, I needed to keeping it in its lane. I gave it a go slicing some Louisiana-made 1.25-inch Boudin sausage—Asian meets Cajun, if you will. It made quick work of taking off nice, clean slices. There’s no doubt the Jackdaw would excel in other chores such as cutting rope and paracord, skinning bark, cutting notches in wood and the like. While its looks may not scream camp knife, it’s more than willing to prove you wrong.

The RMJ Jackdaw definitely had the most versatile sheath of the group, here in Scout carry mode on a belt behind the back. It also configures for a vertical tote inside a waistband.

SPECS: RMJ JACKDAW
Blade length: 3.25”
Blade steel: Nitro-V stainless
Handle material: G-10
Special features: Chinese dao-style blade
Weight: 2.9 ozs.
Overall length: 6.625”
Sheath: Molded black Kydex, Scout carry
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $200

 

PRIMORDIAL CHOP: Condor Tool & Knife Primal Cleaver

Of the test bunch, the mid-sized Condor Tool & Knife Primal Cleaver most resembles the shape of the archetypical cleaver. It has a decent amount of heft, the bead-blasted, flat-ground blade does the heavy lifting and there’s an ovate hole in the blade for hanging. The curvaceous handle sports layered scales and there’s a tube lanyard hole in the base replete with a paracord lanyard ready for duty.

Note the scale of the Condor Primal Cleaver in relationship to a medium-sized hand. The cleaver more than excels as an efficient chopper/slicer when weight savings on the trail are at a premium (which they usually are).

I first tested the Primal Cleaver on a variety of veggies. The blade easily chopped through tomatoes and bell peppers in clean, single whacks. Then I tried it at dicing both and the blade performed like a champ. I also tried it on 2-inch-thick beef tenderloin and it chopped out slices admirably. The handle is very comfortable and, though it didn’t fill my medium-size palm, what you give up in length you gain in lighter weight and portability over a full-sized cleaver. I rate this as a very competent bulldog with enough heft to perform a myriad of cooking chores.

The Condor Primal Cleaver is a mid-sized chopper/slicer with the tenacity of a bulldog. It chopped and diced tomatoes and bell peppers with gusto, and did an admirable job on beef tenderloin as well.

SPECS: CONDOR TOOL & KNIFE PRIMAL CLEAVER
Blade length: 4.09”
Blade material: 1095 carbon steel
Handle material: Orange Micarta®
Weight: 5.75 ozs.
Overall length: 7.89”
Sheath: Brown leather belt model
Country of origin: El Salvador
MSRP: $84.98

 

DUAL PURSUIT: White River Knife & Tool Camp Cleaver 

The White River Knife & Tool Camp Cleaver somewhat resembles a shortened Malaysian parang, which is ideally suited for chopping. This is the beast among the test group. The stonewashed blade sports a durable flat grind. A hole in the blade allows for hanging around the campfire for ready access. The handle is nicely sculpted with an ample palm swell and there’s a lanyard hole in the base. White River provides a well-crafted square-based belt sheath.

The White River Camp Cleaver is the beast of the test bunch. It chopped slices off like a house afire on a 2-inch-thick beef tenderloin en route to making a hearty stew. Other veggies like potatoes and mushrooms were a breeze as well.

Anything but typical, the full-size Camp Cleaver’s blade design struck me as one useful for both chopping and slicing, so I gave it a go both ways. I tested the blade on a couple of 2-inch-thick beef tenderloins for a stew. I know, extravagant, I love a good stew. The Camp Cleaver’s heft and sharp edge took off slices of the tenderloin effortlessly, and performed equally as well cubing the meat into squared chunks. Potatoes fared likewise. If you don’t mind packing a full-size cleaver, the White River offering will return the favor by prepping meals for a horde of campers.


The White River Camp Cleaver is 10.125 inches of chopping and slicing heaven. At 8.2 ounces it’s a cleaver with plenty of heft for group food prep, and its CPM S35VN stainless steel blade provides superb cutting ability.

SPECS: WHITE RIVER KNIFE & TOOL CAMP CLEAVER
Blade length: 5.625”
Blade steel: CPM S35VN stainless
Handle material: Black Micarta®
Special features: Traditional hole in the blade for hanging
Weight: 8.2 ozs.
Overall length: 10.125”
Sheath: Brown leather belt model
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $250

 

CLEAVER CORNUCOPIA

As you have no doubt deduced, cleavers come in all shapes and sizes. The CRKT Minimalist necker is a nifty companion for a variety of small chores. The RMJ Jackdaw will slice with the best of them, and its versatile sheath is a nice bonus. Condor’s Primal Cleaver is a great blend of chop-ability and portability. The beastly White River Camp Cleaver is a full-size workhorse at preparing food for a cadre of campers. Next time you’re getting your gear together for an outing, consider the cleaver as part of the package!

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