Marine Corps hero feted with Nawrocki knife at The Battleship Ball.
An unforgettable setting for a memorable event celebrating an American hero—all complemented by a beautiful knife by Brian “Rocco” Nawrocki—completed a tribute to USMC Sergeant Scott Bunker during last year’s 250th anniversary of the United States Marine Corps.
Assigned to Lima Company in 2005 during the Iraq War, Sergeant Bunker took multiple machine-gun rounds at point-blank range in house-to-house fighting, resulting in the loss of an eye, half a lung, several ribs and soft-tissue damage to his left arm. He was the guest of honor at The Battleship Ball 2025 on November 1, held on the deck of the vintage World War II Battleship USS North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina.
Event organizer/USMC veteran Dean Smith (left) congratulates Sgt. Scott Bunker after delivery of the Nawrocki tribute knife (in display case on the dais) during The Battleship Ball.
The handsome fixed blade Rocco made for Sergeant Bunker includes steel from the North Carolina for the blade and guard. The wood handle is teak from the battlewagon’s deck, along with purple heart ribbon spacers.
If it needs cutting, do it in style with one of these gems.
Of any class of knife, there’s nothing handier than an EDC blade. From mending hoses to knocking down cardboard boxes and prying open stuck latches, these knives trim down daily chores. Though what exactly defines an EDC knife? Honestly, anything could be an everyday carry if you simply carry it every day. And while a few of our new knife picks aren’t precisely what you call your typical EDC, they’re certainly worthy of keeping at hand to cut into your workload.
Brian Milinski Paratrooper
BLADE LENGTH: 3.25” BLADE MATERIAL: Dragonskin damascus by Bertie Rietveld BLADE GRIND: Hollow BLADE FINISH: Nitre salt blued SCALES: Carbon fiber CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5” MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,650 MAKER: Brian Milinski, mrknives.com (Felipe Silva image)
Buck Knives 791 Range Elite
KNIFE TYPE: Folder BLADE LENGTH: 3 3/8” BLADE STEEL: MagnaCut stainless BLADE GRIND: High-panel flat BLADE OPENER: Thumb stud HANDLE MATERIAL: Anodized aluminum LINERS: Tumble-polished stainless LOCK: Crossbar POCKET CLIP: Deep carry, reversible WEIGHT: 3.3 ozs. CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5” SPECIAL FEATURES: Spine gimping COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $275 COMPANY: Buck Knives, buckknives.com
Sean Alonzo Dalisay 2.8 Cigar Cutter
BLADE LENGTH: 2.8” BLADE MATERIAL: Yggdrasil pattern damascus by Damasteel BLADE GRIND: Single bevel SCALES: Mammoth tusk ivory BOLSTER: Black burlap Micarta® KNIFE TO KNOW: Pivot collar, inlay and thumb screws are mammoth ivory; zirconium pivot and backspacer MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $4,200 MAKER: Sean Alonzo, baleteblades.shop (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Brion Tomberlin Personal Carry Fighter
BLADE LENGTH: 4.5” BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon BLADE GRIND: Flat SCALES: Ironwood GUARD: 416 stainless steel OVERALL LENGTH: 9.5” MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $650 KNIFE TO KNOW: Brion Tomberlin is a master smith in the American Bladesmith Society MAKER: Brion Tomberlin (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Craig Brewer Slipjoint
BLADE LENGTH: 2.5” BLADE MATERIAL: Mike Norris stainless damascus in a Frequency pattern BLADE GRIND: Hollow SCALES: Mammoth ivory CLOSED LENGTH: 3” MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,100 KNIFE TO KNOW: Craig Brewer is an apprentice smith in the American Bladesmith Society MAKER: Craig Brewer (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Quintin T. Hardtner IV Take-Down Frame-Handle Bowie
BLADE LENGTH: 8.25” BLADE MATERIAL: Feather damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels BLADE GRIND: Flat SCALES: Curly koa FURNITURE MATERIAL: Same as blade SPACERS: Nickel silver OVERALL LENGTH: 13.5” KNIFE TO KNOW: Won Best Fixed Blade and Best of Show at the 2025 Louisiana Knife Show SHEATH: Leather; custom made by Bob Bobbitt MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $3,000 MAKER: Quintin T. Hardtner IV (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Spartan Blades Soter Carbon Fiber Edition
KNIFE TYPE: EDC folder BLADE LENGTH: 3.25” BLADE STEEL: CPM S35VN stainless ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 58-60 HRC BLADE FINISH: Satin HANDLE MATERIAL: Carbon fiber/G-10 composite LOCK: RaceLock™ POCKET CLIP: Machined from one piece of steel, PVD-coated in flat dark earth WEIGHT: 3.9 ozs. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $310 KNIFE TO KNOW: Soter is the Greek mythological figure known as the “protector” COMPANY: Spartan Blades, spartanbladesusa.com
Tory Utt Arkansas Hunter
KNIFE TYPE: Slipjoint BLADE LENGTH: 4” BLADE MATERIAL: Feather pattern damascus forged by Bill Poor BLADE GRIND: Flat BLADE PATTERN: Clip point HANDLE FRAME: Nickel silver SCALES: Westinghouse Micarta® SHIELD: Mother-of-pearl BOLSTERS: Topo pattern damascus forged by Tory Utt CLOSED LENGTH: 4.25” MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,300 range KNIFE TO KNOW: Tory Utt has been making knives for 12 years MAKER: Tory Utt, sacredbearknives.com (SharpByCoop image)
Mace Vitale Bowie
BLADE LENGTH: 12.5” BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon BLADE GRIND: Flat SCALES: Tasmanian blackwood GUARD & FERRULE: Mild steel OVERALL LENGTH: 17.5” KNIFE TO KNOW: The design is inspired by early American knives; Mace Vitale is a journeyman smith in the American Bladesmith Society MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,750 MAKER: Mace Vitale (SharpByCoop image)
Bear & Son Cutlery 112A 4” Stainless Steel Framelock
BLADE LENGTH: 2 7/8” BLADE MATERIAL: Stainless steel BLADE PATTERN: Drop point BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud OPENING MECHANISM: Assisted HANDLE MATERIAL: Stainless steel LOCK: Framelock POCKET CLIP: Yes WEIGHT: 3.8 ozs. CLOSED LENGTH: 3¾” COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $59.99 COMPANY: Bear & Son Cutlery, bearandsoncutlery.com
Camillus Explorer
BLADE LENGTH: 3” BLADE STEEL: 3Cr13 stainless BLADE PATTERN: Drop point HANDLE MATERIAL: Nylon glass fiber LOCK: Crossbar WEIGHT: 3 3/8 ozs. CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5” COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Offshore MSRP: $29.99 COMPANY: Camillus, camillusknives.com
5.11 Pryme Double Duty DP
KNIFE TYPE: Folder BLADE LENGTH: 3.25” BLADE MATERIAL: D2 tool steel BLADE GRIND: Compound BLADE PATTERN: Drop point BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud HANDLE MATERIAL: G-10 on mark side/420J2 stainless on lock side BOLSTER MATERIAL: 420J2 LOCK: Framelock POCKET CLIP: Steel, deep carry, reversible WEIGHT: 5.3 ozs. CLOSED LENGTH: 5.125” SPECIAL FEATURES: Built-in, full-handle-length pry tool/screwdriver/optic COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China MSRP: $85 CONTACT: 5.11, 5.11tactical.com
Four U.S.-made EDC sheath knives take the author’s test.
EDC knives have been influenced by folding designs since the inception of steel, if not before. However, historically speaking, compact fixed blades were daily edged tools long before folders.
Cultures worldwide, both known and no doubt unknown, carried short sheath knives for utility, survival and ceremony. Japan’s tanto pierced with precision and Viking seaxes sliced with status. Native Americans relied on trade knives and ulus for skinning and barter. Indonesia’s badik and short kris blended practicality with spiritual meaning.
These blades reflected local needs and traditions, proving compact straight knives were essential long before EDC became a modern gear category.
Wharncliffe Vs. Sheepsfoot Blades
The aptly named Bradford USA G3 Wharnie (top) has a classic wharncliffe blade while the Montana Knife Stockyard (bottom) boasts a modified sheepsfoot pattern.
Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades are similar and different. A wharncliffe features a long, straight cutting edge with a spine that tapers gradually to a fine, precise point. This geometry excels at controlled slicing, detailed scoring and utility work where accuracy at the tip is essential. The design allows steady pressure along the edge, making it ideal for carving, whittling and precision-driven EDC tasks.
A sheepsfoot, by contrast, has a straight edge with a spine that curves down sharply to meet the edge in a blunter tip. This greatly reduces the risk of piercing, making it safer for rescue work, controlled cuts and environments where safety matters most.
The wharncliffe offers versatility and precision for fine tasks, while the sheepsfoot provides dependable slicing power, rope-cutting efficiency and unmatched control under pressure. Together, they represent two specialized approaches to cutting—one prioritizing accuracy, the other emphasizing safety and reliability.—by Reuben Bolieu
Montana Knife Co. (MKC) Stockyard
The Montana Knife Stockyard whittled curly, thin feather sticks for a small twig stove. MKC offers free sharpening, cleaning and repair for life, ensuring the knife remains reliable for years to come.
The Montana Knife Co. (MKC) Stockyard is made in the USA and hand-finished in Montana. It embodies the rugged traditions of ranch life and strikes a balance between compact carry and the strength needed for long days in the field. Its MagnaCut stainless steel is known for toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance, and the blade’s thickness provides durability without excessive weight.
The sheepsfoot blade is designed for controlled slicing and safe utility, excelling in tasks such as cutting twine or trimming hooves where precision is crucial. The stonewash finish reduces glare and disguises wear, while the rugged G-10 scales in green and black ensure a secure grip, even in wet or gloved conditions. The ergonomic handle includes a “subtle hook profile” for extra control and quick deployment.
Each Stockyard comes with a USA-made Kydex sheath, featuring adjustable retention for a secure fit and both horizontal and vertical carry. The design keeps the knife accessible and comfortable, whether you’re riding fence lines or working in the shop. MKC also offers free sharpening, cleaning and repair for life, ensuring your knife remains reliable for years to come.
Bradford USA G3 Wharnie
Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades allow you to choke up toward the tip and use a forefinger for fine control work. The author used the technique with the Bradford USA G3 Wharnie on a fried egg eaten right out of his carbon-steel skillet.
Skilled makers in Kent, Washington, meticulously craft the Bradford USA G3 Wharnie, ensuring every detail meets the highest quality standards. The compact fixed blade strikes a balance between portability and cutting strength, making it ideal for everyday carry and outdoor use. The blade’s long, straight edge offers both reach and control, versatile enough for slicing tasks and utility work. The blade thickness provides durability without the weight, allowing for agility in the hand.
Forged from premium Bohler M390 or MagnaCut stainless, the blade excels in edge retention, toughness and corrosion resistance. The wharncliffe blade, featuring the straight edge and fine tip, is particularly suited for controlled slicing, scoring and detailed cutting. A choice between a stonewash or tumbled finish minimizes glare while concealing wear, giving the knife a rugged, industrious appearance.
The handle features 3D-contoured scales in a choice of G-10, Micarta, carbon fiber or G-Wood, ensuring a secure grip and long-lasting durability. The ergonomic shape fits comfortably in hand for extended use, whether in the field or workshop. Each G3 Wharnie comes with a taco-style Kydex sheath that offers secure retention and customizable carry options.
Big Idea Design Deano
Deano Specs Designer: Mak Kelsay Blade Length: 3.125” Blade Steel: Nitro-V stainless Blade @the Thickest: 0.14” Blade Finish: Graphite black Cerakote® Weight: 3.6 ozs. Scales: Micarta® Overall Length: 7.5” Sheath: Kydex w/UltiClip 3.3 Country of Origin: USA MSRP: $325
Pros
Versatile Blade
Good Carry System
Full-Sized Grip
Cons
Expensive
The Deano from Big Idea Design is made in America with global steel origins. Designed by Mak Kelsay in Chattanooga, Tennessee, it strikes a nice balance between compact carry and dependable working strength. The blade provides versatile cutting power for everyday carry, camping and outdoor use. It also offers durability without unnecessary bulk, keeping it agile in hand.
The Nitro-V stainless blade steel delivers excellent toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance in demanding environments. The modified drop point emphasizes control and practical utility. It tracks straight, bites clean and handles detail cuts with confidence. A graphite-black Cerakote®/tumbled finish creates a rugged, battle-worn look while reducing glare and concealing wear.
Scales are durable Micarta in black or green, providing a secure grip in all conditions. The ergonomic contour ensures comfort during extended use, whether in the field, workshop or camp.
The Deano includes a scout-carry Kydex sheath with an UltiClip Slim 3.3, offering secure retention and versatile carry options. The sheath system rides comfortably on a belt or pack, keeping the knife accessible and protected at all times.
Bear Forest Knives Stumpy
Stumpy Specs Designer: Garrett Tremblay Blade Length: 2 1/8” Blade @the Thickest: .125” Blade Steel: Nitro-V stainless Blade Finish: Raw matte Weight: 3.2 ozs. Scales: Various Micarta®/wood/Bearcarta Overall Length: 5 7/8” Sheath: By JRE Industries of black leather County of Origin: USA MSRP: $200
Pros
Hand Built
Grind Options
Good Ergonomics
Cons
Smallish Handle
The Bear Forest Knives Stumpy is built by hand in the USA for everyday carry and outdoor reliability. It offers a compact profile that disappears on your belt. The short blade delivers precise cutting power for utility, camp chores and daily shop tasks, and strikes a balance between strength and nimble handling, making it quick and responsive in the hand.
The Nitro-V stainless blade steel provides excellent hardness, edge retention and corrosion resistance in demanding environments. The blade features a full flat grind but is also available with a Scandi grind. It has a 90-degree spine ideal for generating sparks with a ferro rod and for scraping tinder. A raw matte finish gives the knife a resilient, understated look while reducing glare and hiding wear.
Scales are available in Micarta, wood or Bearcarta, each offering durability, comfort and a secure grip in most all conditions. The ergonomic design ensures the knife locks naturally into your hand, even during extended use.
Each Stumpy includes a premium JRE Industries black leather sheath, designed for secure retention and comfortable carry. The sheath rides well on a belt or lanyard, keeping the knife accessible and protected wherever you go.
Real World Tests
There are two teams here, as I see it—straight blades and, more commonly, curved blades. Or, MagnaCut vs. Nitro-V. The blades were all hair-popping sharp out of the box, as expected. This is always the first test of any edged tool I get.
The handles are all unusual. The Stockyard and The Deano have full-sized grips, while the Stumpy and G3 Wharnie have shorter, more compact handles. The latter two also have beefier, hand-filling scales, adding to user comfort.
I had the Stumpy with its full flat grind the longest. It is the only EDC in the batch to have a straight, 90-degree sharpened spine. The continuous curve of the belly aided in making feather sticks for a fire, as did the sharp spine for striking a ferro rod. The smallish handle was comfortable due to the textured Micarta and thick scales. Besides, who doesn’t like a good Mexican blanket print on the scales?
The Deano has a thin handle, as many EDC fixed blades do. The scales are smooth and comfy—sleek. The modified drop point has a slightly clip-point feel and look.
On the utility side, I slashed through mounds of cardboard to break down boxes. I cut cardboard, not tape. (There’s nothing more annoying than a sticky blade on a good knife.) Slicing along the side of a box helps open it up and saves your edge, since it separates a lot of area with minimal gumminess. The light gimping was perfect for my forefinger when slicing down. I never use my thumb on the spine— it’s a bushcraft habit.
Wharny Or Sheepy?
The wharncliffe and sheepsfoot are two similar blade shapes with distinct attributes. I received the Bradford G3 Wharnie in MagnaCut first and rekindled my love for the straight-edge style with a curved spine. Nothing screams utility more than a straight edge similar to that of an X-Acto knife blade. Any box-opener blade fits in with the crowd, as does a wharncliffe. Tip-forward pressure is excellent for drawing back slices.
Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades allow you to choke up toward the tip and use a forefinger for fine, controlled work. I used the technique on a fried egg eaten right out of my carbon-steel skillet. Only a small amount of steel came in contact with the egg and skillet, as draw cuts use minimal edge.
I ran the MKC and Bradford through identical testing on various fibrous materials for practical EDC use. I sliced scrap leather, nylon webbing, zip ties, phone-charging and lamp cords, and lots of cardboard, all with zero issues. The more challenging materials were plastic packaging banding and 15,000-pound tow strapping. I severed the latter two media on a cutting board, draw cutting and push cutting. The forward leverage obtained from the straight-edge blades was apparent and much appreciated. Both blades sliced through the din with no holdups.
As for the performance difference between MagnaCut and Nitro-V, it has more to do with edge geometry and the materials you’re cutting than anything else. It would take a long time cutting similar materials with identical grinds on two knives to see any real difference. Suffice to say, these are two top-tier stainless steels.
Carry Systems
The test knives come with sturdy Kydex sheaths ready for scout carry.
Besides the Bradford G3 Wharnie, two of the test knives are set up for scout carry with straps. The older model of the BFK Stumpy has one-strap retention for scout carry, which you can adjust to different positions. The MKC Stockyard has a Kydex fold-over sheath that easily attached to my belt while I was already wearing pants. The feature is incredibly convenient for those who often forget to put things on until it’s time to work.
The Deano came with options: scout carry strap set and UltiClip Slim 3.3, like a choose-your-own-adventure book. Bradford sent me a sturdy Kydex sheath without attachments. However, Bradford has order options on its website. I carried the Bradford entry like a slip sheath in my pocket and eventually attached it to a small carabiner to hang on my belt loop.
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From maintaining symmetry to adding fullers, we break down the intricate process of making a dagger design into a physical knife.
A dagger is not a kitchen knife in disguise. It is a purpose-built instrument of thrust and that purpose demands precision at every stage of construction. Small errors that might pass unnoticed in a hunter or utility knife compound on the exacting canvas of the dagger. A centerline that begins drifting by a fraction at the ricasso becomes an off-center tip, an uncentered bevel a blade that twists, the result a thrust off target. The difference between success and failure is geometry, and nowhere does geometry matter more than in the making of a dagger.
The process begins with detailed design and planning. The execution begins with precise layout. The central axis is the spine on which the whole piece will rest, and without it symmetry is impossible—the whole blade will stand or fall on getting this right. There are some tricks that will help ensure success.
Dagger Half Template
The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.
Once you have determined the blade profile, preferably in some physical form like a drawing, make a template so it can be accurately transferred to steel. Here’s the thing, though: you only need half. A template representing only half of the blade profile will allow you to use it for each edge, ensuring perfect symmetry. Include the tang on your profile, not just the blade.
If you’re careful, your half template can be held on your blade stock aligned on a scribed center line and scribed on each side. If you’re less careful, oversize your blade stock and template so you can drill holes for alignment pins in the end of each that is outside the final profile. Using these holes to align the half template for marking each edge is the most precise way to lay out a symmetrical profile. If the stock is oversized, you’ll grind off the alignment holes when grinding the profile.
Planning Plunge Lines
Once you’ve accurately laid the profile out on the blade stock, take the time to scribe in the planned plunge lines on the blade flats and the edge. Sweeping, curved plunges are more visually appealing and careful layout will help ensure that your vision becomes reality. These lines are not decorative. They are the stops, targets if you will, that prevent the grind from slowly creeping toward the ricasso with each grinding pass.
Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.
When it comes to grinding these sweeping plunges, hollow grinding on a wheel is easier than flat grinding on a platen—it’s easier to grind a curve with a curve—but by all means use a flat platen if that’s what you have. If you’re already grinding on a wheel, a 1-inch-wide wheel with a 1-inch belt will be an easier path to success than the standard 2-inch wheel and belt.
Sweeping plunges also will result in a thicker edge toward the ricasso. This is fine—you shouldn’t try to sharpen this part as doing so most likely will ruin all your careful design work. Will the unsharpened part of the edge impair the stabbing function? Perhaps, but only a little. Though it pains a serious knife person to admit it, most handmade modern daggers are for show. In most societies stabbing others is frowned on, and if you’re going to all this effort, choosing to focus on aesthetics is a good bet. However, if your dagger will be deployed in combat, ignore the aesthetics, grind sharper plunges and take the edge all the way to the ricasso.
Dagger Grinding And Stock Removal
Grinding and stock removal are the way to go for daggers. This is admittedly a hot take but in a game where winning is determined by symmetry, forging introduces unnecessary variables and distorts the base stock, making accurate layout more complicated—not impossible, just not as easy. There is little to gain by forging unless the steel itself or the situation requires it, or if you simply like doing it that way. If you want a damascus pattern to taper toward the tip, or if you’re making a dagger for American Bladesmith Society testing, by all means forge. It’s an impressive skill set. If you want to make the best dagger possible with an eye toward efficiency, and thereby your profit margins, grind it. Stock removal is the more predictable path, and predictability is the soul of symmetry. Every forged blade is a stock removal blade before it’s completed; don’t get hung up on this unless you have reason to.
Delicacy Of The Dagger Tip
Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.
Where the mass of the ricasso anchors the entire weapon and provides strength at the critical juncture of guard and tang, the tip, by contrast, demands delicacy. Once your profile is carefully ground to shape and you turn to grinding the bevels, grind the tip first. More specifically, grind it at a steeper angle than you plan for the main bevels, and try not to cross the centerline even at that obtuse degree, except at the very end. After that, leave it alone.
Grind the main bevels like you normally would, paying perhaps more attention than usual to your scribed lines, and try to avoid that last inch toward the tip until everything else is pretty much done. This seems a bit odd at first, but consider that the final inch must maintain its thickness in order to be strong enough to pierce effectively without deformation or fracture. If you do it right, you’ll end up with a bevel at the transition. Some makers polish the transition so it remains crisp, while others blend it smooth while polishing. Either way, it should be deliberate. Neglect this and the point will be too thin.
When To Add Fullers
Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.
Fullers, if they are to be included, should be cut early while the blank still has parallel flats. Attempting them later invites misalignment, or at the least inserts a potentially unnecessary level of difficulty. Better machinists than this writer/dagger enthusiast will likely have little difficulty either way, but life has enough complications of its own without inviting them into play.
Dagger Balance
Balance matters as much as steel. A well-made dagger should balance at or just ahead of the guard, a neutral point where the hand feels neither burdened nor abandoned. This can be tested with nothing more elaborate than a rod beneath the mostly assembled knife, shifting it until it rests level. It’s really just as easy to adjust weight distribution by feel, removing or adding weight to the component parts until it feels right. Don’t forget to consider the added weight of your epoxy. When balance is right, the blade becomes an extension of the wrist, alive and responsive.
Tang & Spacers
How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.
Even the tang deserves forethought. When profiling the blade blank, leaving the tang longer than necessary provides room for correction and fitting, and a threaded end can serve as both a work-holding aid during construction and a permanent anchor if a pommel or nut will close the assembly.
Spacers, fitted between guard and handle and again between handle and pommel, make alignment easier and allow pins to register each component precisely during glue-up. They’re also relatively easy targets for weight adjustment when working on overall balance. These details are seldom glamorous but are what let the final assembly come together without struggle.
Embellishments
What results from this attention is not decoration but readiness. The embellishments will come later… the fluted handles and twisted wires and all the flourishes that mark the master’s hand. But none of that matters if the design is poor, the execution haphazard, the details unconsidered.
Consider four large kitchen knives, all under $80 each.
As you get older and entertain bigger gatherings, do you find yourself wanting to improve your culinary chops?
A little more blade may be just what you need to sharpen your prep time so you can spend more time enjoying your food than getting it to the table. Larger and more focused kitchen tools can indeed improve your efficiency and your proficiency as a gourmet chef as well.
The focus here is on large and/or specialized kitchen knives, specifically the different types and what they can do to make your job easier and your cooking better, each for under $80. Large cooking knives vary widely and we’re going to show you four variations. Keep in mind, most kitchen knives aren’t just for cutting meat but are for preparing fruit, vegetables and other items such as breading or crusts, too.
Utica Meat Dad Chef’s Knife
The Utica Meat Dad Chef’s Knife is for large cuts of meat, fruits and vegetables. It took half-inch medallions off a plump pork tenderloin for the sauté pan.
Meat Dad Chef’s Knife Specs Blade length: 7.54” Blade steel: 440C stainless Blade finish: Food Safe Black PVD Handle material: Orange G-10 Weight: 17” Overall length: 12.5” Country of origin: USA MSRP: $74.99
The Utica Meat Dad Chef’s Knife is a whopper with a blade belly 2.25 inches deep for carving the big stuff when needed and everyday slicing and dicing as well. The beefy orange G-10 handle helps maintain control on the wieldy blade for it all.
Though the test’s two chef’s knives—the Fox Knives Meat Slicer being the other—have meat in their names, they facilitate a much wider variety of meal prep tasks, including the slicing, dicing and mincing of a wide range of vegetables and other fare.
The Meat Dad is large enough to tackle a watermelon in a straight cut.
The Utica is large for a chef’s knife so we tested it on some heathy chores, such as cutting a nice, plump pork tenderloin into fat medallions for a tasty sauté. We also tried the Meat Dad out on a watermelon and, thanks to the stout blade, sliced it straight as an arrow from top to bottom. Sometimes you just need a large knife and the Utica tackles those requirements quite well.
Fox Meat Slicer Knife
Like many typical chef’s knives, the Fox Meat Slicer is capable of many functions. Wrote the author: “I used the knife for slicing small brown portobello mushrooms to add to an omelet. Note the sharp, crisp cuts—a sign the mushrooms were not prepared by an ordinary kitchen knife.”
Meat Slicer Specs Blade length: 7.8” Blade steel: UNI X59CrMoV15 stainless Blade finish: Fine satin Handle material: Black PP synthetic Weight: 3.75 ozs. Overall length: 12.4” Country of origin: Italy MSRP: $36.94
All chef’s knives are relatively long but not all have blades that can be tiring to use. The Fox Meat Slicer Knife is a much trimmer, more svelte example. A large Italian cutlery company with an impressive presence in the USA, Fox offers a strong group of knives in its Due Cigni Coltellerie line.
One of the group is the Meat Slicer, a long chef’s knife with a slim profile sporting an extended, slender drop-point blade only .12-inch thick. It comes with a gently curved handle that has just enough drop at the base to protect your fingers during use.
The Meat Slicer is more adept at less cumbersome tasks of both the meat and vegetable variety. We first used it on a couple of smoked sausage links, cutting roughly 3/16-inch slices down the length of each for an omelet. The knife performed quickly and with ease.
The Fox Meat Slicer is excellent for most meals that don’t require cutting thick slabs of meat or large fruit and vegetables. It made quick work prepping smoked sausage.
To add a little flavor, we turned to some portobello mushrooms. Taking a handful, I trimmed the stems off and sliced them up one by one in a jiffy. The German steel performed very well and the handle was the most comfortable of the test lot.
A.G. Russell 6-inch Boning Knife
The A.G. Russell relieved the chicken breast of its hard-shell-bone understructure pronto. “Fowl such as chickens retain their juices and flavor much better when cooked on the bone,” the author noted. “Here the chicken breast is removed, sliced and ready to eat.”
The A.G. Russell 6-inch Boning Knife just might be your go-to counter slicer for a myriad of kitchen duties. While its name is designated for separating meat from bones, the A.G. Russell can perform a myriad of duties such as trimming, slicing and dicing both meat and veggies. Some even clean their afternoon catch with it as it is closely related to a fish knife. The blade is super thin and the piece is very lightweight.
The A.G. Russell got the most tedious work out of the foursome due to the nature of the beast. Fortunately, chickens go through extensive steps of processing before average folk ever set eyes on them. Whether fried, barbecued or roasted, the best way to keep a chicken breast moist is with the skin, breast meat and bone structure cooked together.
After cooking the bird, use the sharp cutting tip to cut the area around the breast skin so it can be removed with the meat. Next, peel the skin back and slowly work the blade between meat and bone structure and slowly use the fingers of your other hand to peel the entire breast off with the skin on. Slice and eat!
The A.G. Russell Boning Knife has a thin, sharp blade very much akin to a fish knife and can be used for other types of work around the kitchen. The author used the razor-sharp blade to cut off the tails of shrimp for a cocktail.
The Boning Knife, like the others, is handy in other ways as well. You can slice small veggies and fruits, trim fat and do all sorts of clean-up chores to make food more presentable.
Ontario Old Hickory 76 7-inch Cleaver
Cutting thick carrots across the grain can be tough on many kitchen knives but was easy for the Ontario Old Hickory 76 Cleaver.
Old Hickory 76 Cleaver Specs Blade length: 7.5” Blade material: 1075 carbon steel Blade grind: Flat bevel Blade finish: Brushed Handle material: Wood Weight: 10 ozs. Overall length: 12” Country of origin: USA MSRP: $30.50
We’ve saved the big gun for last: the Ontario Old Hickory 76 7-inch Cleaver. There’s something to be said for the simple, matter-of-fact Old Hickory edged tools. Maybe it’s the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” attitude—and I like it! The blade has a horizontal pattern pressed into it, a hole for hanging in the upper lead edge, and an Ontario Knife Co., Tru Edge, Made In U.S.A., sword logo stamp in the top center. The blade climbs upward toward the tip at its spine and the cutting edge has a gentle curve to it.
When you need a heavy hand and finesse is no object, the cleaver will get the job done. We used it for cutting some tough-as-nails carrots with no problem. The same went for hard sausage. There’s no sense in dulling a sharp knife blade on hard, tough foods when a cleaver can cut them with haste and look for its next challenge.
Chubs of hard summer sausage are what the Old Hickory 76 lives for.
Old Hickory blades are the kind of “git ’er done” kitchen knives and tools that take your tough challenges on their back and never cry uncle. My family grew up with Old Hickory blades and I recommend keeping them around the kitchen when tough times call for tough tools.
Final Cut
There you have it—four different ways to make your kitchen more useful without breaking the bank. If you’re ready to expand your culinary universe, look no further than these useful, able kitchen helpers.
Mike Bradshaw’s Large Hunter smokes the author’s test regimen.
I came across Mike Bradshaw’s knives thanks to a recommendation by a knifemaker friend, R.W. Fred. The knifemaking community always helps other knifemakers—call it the “Brotherhood of the Blade.” After visiting his social media account for a quick look, I messaged Mike and he sent me his Large Hunter to test.
Bradshaw’s Large Hunter Specs
Knife: Large Hunter Maker: Mike Bradshaw Blade length: 4.5” Blade steel: CPM MagnaCut stainless Rockwell hardness: 63.5 HRC Blade @the widest: 1.375” Blade @the thickest: .13” Blade grind: Hollow on a 12” wheel Scales: OD green G-carta by GL Hanson Fittings: Nickel silver Overall length: 9.125” Sheath: Black Kydex Maker’s price for a similar knife: $200
Light Cutting Tasks
The author indicated the Large Hunter produced some of the thinnest slices he has ever made skiving 8-ounce leather.
Up first: the paper slice to check the original edge. This is the best way to show slicing in the still-image format of publications. The Large Hunter zipped through drafting paper in a jiffy, making a nice zipping sound on each cut. The edges of the slices were smooth with no tears. I had a hard time keeping my fingers out of the way, nicking one fingernail in the process.
Skiving 8-ounce leather was next on the agenda, and the Large Hunter produced some of the thinnest slices I have ever cut. It crunched the leather very smoothly in even slices that were controllable. The hardest part was moving my fingers out of the way fast enough. In addition to skiving the leather, I also sliced it. Again, the cuts were straight with no tearing.
Medium-Duty Cutting Tasks
Mike Bradshaw’s knife crunched its way to 200 clean cuts in half-inch sisal rope.
It was time to whittle a firestick from seasoned cedar. The Large Hunter came through in flying colors, producing perfect curlicues with clean cuts. It was easy to control cutting depth but the handle was a tad sharp in the choil area. The unwanted sharp spot showed up again when I applied more pressure for deep cuts. A little touch up with sandpaper would fix the problem.
Batonning the Large Hunter through a cedar block was next. Four whacks and the cedar was split. I split it four times then split those four pieces four more times for kindling. The knife batonned great, with good balance between blade and handle. There was no damage to the edge.
Heavy Cutting Tasks
After being whacked into the antler 30 times, the edge emerged (far left) with no chips or rolling—a sign of excellent heat treatment.
From there, half-inch sisal rope was on the slicing block. The Large Hunter crunched its way to 200 clean cuts pronto. This knife is extremely sharp and holds an edge perfectly. The handle had a few hot spots that could be corrected fast with a piece of 220-grit sandpaper. If you’re wearing gloves, it’s no problem.
To push the edge further, I gave it 30 hard whacks into a whitetail deer antler. All that did was scatter antler chips all over my workbench—it didn’t do a thing to the edge. Excellent heat treatment, Mike!
As a final gauge of the edge, it was back to the paper slice to see if the edge picked up any damage or dulled at all. Nope, still sharp and smooth cutting. Great job, Mike.
Final Cut
Soften the edges of the handle more to relieve the hot spots. Easy fix. The Large Hunter can tackle a lot more than field processing big game. It has a super sharp edge for slicing and a bite for the larger chores.
Check Out More Outdoor Knives:
BEST TOMAHAWKS: OUR TOP HAWKS FOR BACKWOODS TO BATTLEFIELDS
The ultimate lineup of custom fighter knives—from integral designs and sub-hilts to exotic materials like copper damascus and mammoth tooth.
Fighters are some of the sexiest knives going. With many, even their curves have curves. Those less curvy make up for it with straight-line designs that look born to perform. If sex really does sell, fighters are the capitalists of cut.
Randy Caston
Randy Caston’s fighter features a 9 5/8-inch blade of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. Scales: blackwood. The guard is mild steel. Overall length: 14.75 inche.(SharpByCoop image)
Adam Deville
A nickel damascus with a Dragon Skin core forged by Adam Deville sporting a snakelike fuller completes the 10.5-inch recurve blade of Jordon Berthelot’s integral fighter. The scales are marbled carbon fiber. Overall length: 16.5 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Dennis Friedly
Dennis Friedly outfits his fighter-art knife in a 7.75-inch blade of hollow-ground CPM 154 stainless. The scales are mammoth tooth and the guard is 416 stainless. The engraving is by Ray Cover Jr. Overall length: 13 inches.(SharpByCoop image)
Patrick Harp
A 6-inch recurve blade in a full-flat-ground crushed W’s and copper damascus forged by Baker Forge & Tool top off a sub-hilt fighter by Patrick Harp of P. Harp Designs. The handle is basswood burl and the guard and sub hilt are wrought iron. Overall length: 11 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Peyton Ramm
ABS journeyman smith Peyton Ramm opts for a 6 1/8-inch blade of a Transition damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels for his fighter. Handle frame: damascus. Scales: mammoth ivory. Guard: crushed W’s damascus. Fittings: same as guard but w/24k gold and silver inlays. Overall length: 10.75 inches. (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Steven Ramos
Peregrine by Steven Ramos offers up a 6-inch blade of hollow-ground RWL-34 stainless steel in a green canvas Micarta® handle with red fiber spacers. Bolster: 416 stainless steel. Overall length: 10.5 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Dan Tompkins
A 5.75-inch blade in convex-ground Riptide Ultra Coppermascus by Baker Forge & Tool and a black Richlite guard and handle comprise the double-edge fighter by Dan Tompkins of Evolution Cutlery. The copper spacers are also by Baker. Overall length: 11 inches.(SharpByCoop image)
