Tactical Fixed Blades: EDC With An Edge

Don’t overlook small tactical fixed blades for everyday carry.

When most blade fans talk everyday carry (EDC) knives, they usually mean folders. The two main EDC advantages of folding knives are they are convenient to carry and, except for that pesky pocket clip, easy to conceal. Of course, while many overlook the clip, others know it indicates you are carrying a knife.  

Folders are designed primarily for smaller everyday chores—opening a box, peeling fruit and so on. This is especially true of slipjoints, which rely on you cutting away from yourself—which you should always do with all knives—and a half-stop as a safety device. Granted, when slipjoints were popularized long ago, lockback, linerlock and framelock folders were unavailable. The problem with both slipjoints and lockbacks is most take two hands to open and close, which, if you are trying to cut something you simultaneously must hold, can be inconvenient at the very least.

The late 20th and early 21st centuries saw a boom in the commercial availability of manual folders that could be opened and closed with one hand. Utilizing the flipper opener and the roller bearing system made the blade deploy quickly and smoothly, often even quicker than an automatic. With the perfection of linerlocks and framelocks, unlocking and closing the manual folder with one hand was no longer a problem.

Kydex sheaths can be molded to fit the blade and, over time, will not deform, providing a safer carry option. Rafal Kolakowski uses Kydex® for the sheaths of his Ridgeline set of small tactical EDC fixed blades.
Kydex sheaths can be molded to fit the blade and, over time, will not deform, providing a safer carry option. Rafal Kolakowski uses Kydex® for the sheaths of his Ridgeline set of small tactical EDC fixed blades.

Even with these technical improvements, the folding knife still has its limitations. A small blade can do only so much before it bends or, in some cases, breaks. Some tactical folder makers tried to address this issue by making folders with 5-inch blades of 1/4-inch stock. This was done primarily for cosmetic reasons without addressing the folder’s primary weakness—the pivot. The very nature of the pivot means it must allow some side-to-side movement of the blade, no matter how slight. If the folder is used for an unintended purpose or put under undue force, the blade can be moved off-center.

On top of that, folding knives require more regular maintenance than fixed blades. Locking folders with back straps and slipjoints with backsprings collect dirt, lint, etc., during daily use and must be cleaned. What’s more, using a folding knife beyond its capabilities and failing to perform regular maintenance can affect its opening and closing ability. Lastly, a folder cannot do anything until you first deploy the blade.

Fixed-Blade Pros

Fixed blades, on the other hand, offer several advantages. As already suggested, larger fixed blades can do tasks that smaller blades either can’t perform or do so with difficulty.

Finger/thumb serrations on the blade spine of Al Polkowski’s Boot Fighter help with controlling the knife in use.
Finger/thumb serrations on the blade spine of Al Polkowski’s Boot Fighter help with controlling the knife in use.

One of the fixed blade’s most significant advantages is full-tang construction, providing added strength and durability. A full-tang fixed blade especially is better suited for heavy cutting and repeated hard use, and safer for use with a heavy load.

A fixed blade also has a superior mechanical advantage. Unlike the folding knife, there is zero chance of mechanical failure under stress. Locks and pivots can fail, especially when using the knife for tasks for which it is not intended.

Another advantage is the style and size of the blade. Fixed blades can feature longer and thicker blades that will perform better under the rigors of hard use.  

Full-tang fixed blades such as the Trailhead set by Tomasz Dziubinski are better suited for heavy cutting and repeated hard use, and safer for use with a heavy load.
Full-tang fixed blades such as the Trailhead set by Tomasz Dziubinski are better suited for heavy cutting and repeated hard use, and safer for use with a heavy load.

A fixed blade typically will have better handle ergonomics. Its handle is usually designed for prolonged use, featuring a more comfortable grip that also aids in balance and is ready for immediate deployment. While many folders can be opened with one hand, not so slipjoints. If your hands are cold, wet, injured or gloved it can present a problem as many, if not all, slipjoints require two hands to deploy the blade or blades. On the other hand, with the correct sheath combination, a fixed blade can be rapidly deployed under almost any circumstance.

Sheath Concerns

Top material options for EDC fixed-blade sheaths are leather and Kydex®. Kydex gained popularity because it provides two main advantages over leather.

First, most makers can build at least a rudimentary kydex sheath. Leather sheaths are more of a challenge. Second, Kydex does not hold moisture and does not require tannic acid, which is used in the processing of leather. This is very important for EDC. Tannic acid in the leather can cause carbon steel to discolor. Leather, once wet, can shrink and/or deform, allowing the blade to accidentally cut or poke through it.

Conversely, Kydex does not hold moisture and does not require tannic acid. Kydex can be molded to fit the blade and, over time, will not deform, providing a safer carry option. Finally, the clip attachment on most Kydex sheaths can be adjusted to wear in either a vertical or horizontal position.

They Have The Edge

With the right sheath combination, a fixed blade can be rapidly deployed under almost any circumstance. The Street Scalpel by Rafal Kolakowski with Kydex® sheath and breakaway chain is a classic example.
With the right sheath combination, a fixed blade can be rapidly deployed under almost any circumstance. The Street Scalpel by Rafal Kolakowski with Kydex® sheath and breakaway chain is a classic example.

I’m not suggesting that folders do not have advantages as EDC knives; they do. They are usually more comfortable and concealable to carry than fixed blades. They are more socially acceptable and usually have limited legal restrictions. They can provide versatility for light tasks such as opening letters, boxes, cutting cord, etc.

It is in fact the EDC folders’ size that is its biggest disadvantage. The smaller blades and less ergonomic handles limit the number of tasks folding knives can perform. Also, their moving parts provide a mechanical disadvantage when compared to EDC fixed blades.

The majority of this story’s featured tactical fixed EDCs have a 4-inch or shorter blade. Many tactical EDC folders also have 3.75-to-4-inch blades. When open, they are about the same length as the featured fixed blades.

With perhaps the exceptions of concealability and some legal restrictions, fixed blades have the edge. Depending on what you are using it for, you may want to consider a knife that has the mechanical advantage, requires less maintenance, can be easier to deploy in difficult situations or environments, and is more comfortable in the hand: fixed blades, the other EDC!

Rebel Specs
Knife type: Small tactical EDC fixed blade
Blade Length: 4.25”
Blade Steel: Elmax stainless
Blade Finish: Two-tone satin and bead blast 
Handle Material: Textured black Micarta® w/OD green Micarta liners 
Overall Length: 9” 
Sheath: Custom-built by the maker; Kydex®
Author’s Comments: “Excellent all-around knife … the tip is ground to give the knife extra penetration … the texture of the black Micarta on the handle gives the user additional traction … primarily designed for belt wear, the clip can be configured for additional carry options … serrations along the top of the blade enhance the knife’s ability to handle small chores … a great knife that provides lots of user options.”
Maker’s price: $430

Ridgeline Specs
Knife type: Small tactical EDC fixed blade
Blade Length: 4” 
Overall Length: 8.75” 
Blade Steel: Becut stainless
Blade Finish: Satin 
Handle Material: Black G-10 
Sheath: Custom-built by the maker; Kydex®
Author’s Comments: “Double-hollow-ground blade with a fuller for added strength … full-tang construction … sculpted handle material for enhanced ergonomics … stainless-steel-tube-lined thong hole.”
Maker’s Price: $350 each


Boot Fighter Specs
Knife type: Small tactical EDC fixed blade
Blade Length: 4” 
Blade Steel: 154CM stainless
Blade Finish: Bead blast 
Handle Material: Black and green G-10 
Overall Length: 8.25”
Sheath: Custom-built by the maker; Kydex®
Author’s Comments: “Great little back-up knife … it features a double-hollow-ground double edge with an extended tang that features a thong hole … quick and light in the hand.” 

Trailhead Specs
Knife type: Small tactical EDC fixed blade
Blade Length: 3.5” 
Blade Steel: Sleipner stainless 
Blade Finish: Black Cerakote® 
Handle Material: OD green G-10 
Overall Length: 8.25”
Sheath: Custom-built by the maker; Kydex®
Author’s Comments: “Flat-ground, upswept utility-style blade … full-tang construction, excellent handle ergonomics … small knife built for hard work … stainless-steel-tube-lined thong hole … perfect knife for camping, a hike and everyday carry.”
Maker’s Price: $280 each


Street Scalpel Specs 
Pattern: Tactical fixed-blade neck knife
Blade Length: 2” 
Blade Material: 80CrV2 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Black Cerakote® 
Handle Material: OD green G-10 
Overall Length: 5.9” 
Sheath: Custom-made, multi-position in Kydex® by the maker w/ball-bearing breakaway chain 
Author’s Comments: “Perfect for utility or self-defense … the attachment holes on the sheath allow the knife to be carried however you like.” 
Maker’s Price: $280 

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Sub-Hilt Knives: Aesthetics And Aggression In Harmony

The sub-hilt is at once belligerent and beautiful, adding a strange allure to the knives that sport it.

There is no consensus as to the origin of the sub-hilt knife, though most agree the sub-hilt fighter was popularized by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Bob Loveless in the 1970s, if not earlier. Some believe the sub-hilt design was for hunting, and that the main purpose for the added hilt was for greater leverage when a surer grip was needed. A few have even postulated the additional hilt was for use as a brace in pulling the knife out after being stabbed into bone or another hard material, a use that it would no doubt accommodate most effectively.

Gary Langley: Gentleman’s Fixed Blade

Custom maker Gary Langley’s sub-hilt fighter may be small at 9 inches overall but makes up for its size in sleek blade grinds, exquisite mother-of-pearl scales and gold inlay. Blade and overall lengths: 4.5 and 9 inches. Alice Carter did the engraving. (SharpByCoop knife image)
Custom maker Gary Langley’s sub-hilt fighter may be small at 9 inches overall but makes up for its size in sleek blade grinds, exquisite mother-of-pearl scales and gold inlay. Blade and overall lengths: 4.5 and 9 inches. Alice Carter did the engraving. (SharpByCoop knife image)

Many knife enthusiasts think of a sub-hilt fighter as being a heavier-edged companion—and in many cases it is—but custom knifemaker Gary Langley’s iteration is a little gem of a knife.

“The small Loveless-style sub-hilt fighter is 3/16-inch CPM 154 steel with a double hollow grind on a 3-inch wheel,” the Dumas, Texas, maker notes. “The heat treatment is by [Cutlery Hall-of-Famer] Paul Bos. I originally designed the knife without the rear bolster. I added it when I couldn’t source the mother-of-pearl scales long enough—and I believe it turned out even better.”

It has what might be called a 19th-century Michael Price San Francisco knife look that makes it a prime candidate for a true gentleman’s fixed blade.

Andrew Blomfield: Sub-Hilt Bowie

ABS master smith Andrew Blomfield’s sub-hilt bowie is a tour de force of explosive mosaic damascus, salt-blackened steel, brass spacers, and exquisite Australian ringed gidgee wood. Blade and overall lengths: 11 and 16 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)
ABS master smith Andrew Blomfield’s sub-hilt bowie is a tour de force of explosive mosaic damascus, salt-blackened steel, brass spacers, and exquisite Australian ringed gidgee wood. Blade and overall lengths: 11 and 16 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)

An ABS master smith from New South Wales, Australia, Andrew Blomfield enjoys building large knives such as bowies and daggers. “The bigger the knife the better,” he states. An example is his sub-hilt bowie.

“I feel that this knife has great flow and balance,” he begins. “The blade is an explosion mosaic pattern damascus hardened to 59 HRC. The guards and pommel are salt-blackened steel with brass spacers and the handle is a beautiful piece of Australian ringed gidgee.”

The guard’s bottom quillon curves back toward the sub-hilt to partially enclose the user’s hand a la a D-guard, but also has hints of both a C- and an S-guard to it. Very unusual!

Andrew Meers: Rose of Sharon

ABS master smith Andrew Meers calls his 16.5-inch sub-hilt fighter Bees and Flowers, due in no small part to the Rose of Sharon and bees engraving. The 12-inch blade is a damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels in a mosaic pattern. Guard and furniture are 416 stainless steel. Overall length: 16.5 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)
ABS master smith Andrew Meers calls his 16.5-inch sub-hilt fighter Bees and Flowers, due in no small part to the Rose of Sharon and bees engraving. The 12-inch blade is a damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels in a mosaic pattern. Guard and furniture are 416 stainless steel. Overall length: 16.5 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)

ABS master smith Andrew Meers of Raleigh, North Carolina, says, “I started with the sub-hilt in mind, which is a departure for me.” To say his deviation from the norm worked out well is an understatement.

“I like to incorporate Japanese influences wherever I can, and I wound up adding an integral habaki into the guard design as well,” he explains. “I wanted a blade that was able to feature a mosaic pattern, so I chose a broader shape that expands towards the point rather than tapers. The handle is a simple design to contrast the visual complexity of the guard.”

The engraving theme is of the Rose of Sharon and bees.

“The client had requested a floral theme, and we worked on the rest of the design and layout from there,” Andrew says. “The engraving was meant to complement the layout of the guard and furniture.”

Justin Harrington: A-Team

Built for an Army buddy, Justin Harrington’s superb sub-hilt fighter incorporates a masterful balance of random pattern damascus, mokumé gané and African blackwood. Blade and overall lengths: 8.5 and 13.5 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)
Built for an Army buddy, Justin Harrington’s superb sub-hilt fighter incorporates a masterful balance of random pattern damascus, mokumé gané and African blackwood. Blade and overall lengths: 8.5 and 13.5 inches. (SharpByCoop knife image)

Justin Harrington of Clemmons, North Carolina, began smithing 18 years ago and is the owner of Cyclops Forge. Of the sub-hilt he says, “It’s the racecar of fighting knives—weight, balance, curvature, tip control and placement all are important variables to be employed to reach a harmony which is felt right away when correctly done.

“This knife started its life as a phone call from an Army A-team member who wanted a special combat retirement gift for his buddy. The three of us got together and forged a damascus billet for the knife over three days in my shop. The 8-inch recurve blade is a random-pattern damascus of 1084 and 15N20 carbon steels. The guard and sub-hilt are made from a copper-and-nickel mokumé gané I make in my shop. The handle is around 5 inches of sculpted African blackwood with a bronze pin.”

The sub-hilt has a forward lean and spoon-cupped quillon that slants toward the guard to capture the user’s index finger. The result is a handle that seems to want to grab your hand.

Cool & Sexy

Whether fighter, bowie or what have you, the sub-hilt-knife genre may be more recognizably custom than any other. From the classic Loveless Big Bear fighter to the wide array of today’s renditions, top sub-hilts are cool, sexy and in harmony with the best custom knives extant.

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White River Exodus 3: Petite And Sweet Outdoor Maven

White River Exodus 3 is a great little companion blade to add to your gear.

A small bushcrafter/EDC knife, the Exodus 3 by White River Knife & Tool can be very useful. Also known as the Adventurecraft, this lean cutter has a thin, super-sharp blade that does all the chores that a larger knife can’t do easily, from skinning small game to whittling firesticks to removing splinters. It’s a great little companion blade to add to your gear. Does it cut? Let’s see.

White River Knife & Tool Exodus 3 Specs

Company: White River Knife & Tool
Blade length: 3.15”
Blade material: A2 tool steel
Rockwell hardness: 60-61 HRC
Blade @the thickest: 0.130”
Blade finish: Stonewashed
Scales: G-10
Weight: 2 ozs.
Overall length: 7.2”
Sheath: Kydex®
Weight w/sheath: 3.5 ozs.
Knife to know: Leather belt loop and different handle materials available
MSRP: $140

Light Cutting Duty

The author used vertical cuts on the 8-ounce leather as fast as he could. The edge bit swift and deep with a nice crunching sound.
The author used vertical cuts on the 8-ounce leather as fast as he could. The edge bit swift and deep with a nice crunching sound.

Slicing regular lined notebook paper went very fast. The Adventurecraft cut smoothly and aggressively. As I warmed up to its thin shape, the cuts were faster. The flat-ground blade is easy to index in use.

Next up, it sliced single-walled cardboard very quickly with a slight curl to the cut pieces. The blade’s width and full flat grind pulled the curl as the blade went through. The aggressive edge was still making noise as it sliced.

Medium Cutting Duty

For skiving the 8-ounce leather, the blade rendered very thin flaps time and time again.
For skiving the 8-ounce leather, the blade rendered very thin flaps time and time again.

I used vertical cuts as fast as I could on 8-ounce scrap leather. The edge bit swift and deep with a nice crunching sound. I somehow managed to keep all the skin on my fingers in the process. The Adventurecraft is very aggressive cutting leather.

For skiving, the blade rendered extremely thin flaps of leather time and time again. As expected, I surrendered a few thin slices of skin on the leather. The Adventurecraft has a very sharp edge!

Heavy Cutting Duty

Since the handle is as narrow as the blade, the author had to adjust his grip a few times when whittling the firestick. The deeper he cut, the more it wanted to roll in his hand. So he made the curlicues thin and kept on whittling. As he noted, “It’s a handy whittler in any case.”
Since the handle is as narrow as the blade, the author had to adjust his grip a few times when whittling the firestick. The deeper he cut, the more it wanted to roll in his hand. So he made the curlicues thin and kept on whittling. As he noted, “It’s a handy whittler in any case.”

I grabbed a piece of pine from the kindling pile and started to whittle a firestick. I had to adjust my grip a few times as the handle is as narrow as the blade. The deeper I cut the more it wanted to roll in my hand. So I made the curlicues thin and kept on whittling. It’s a handy whittler in any case.

The edge withstood 30 whacks into a deer antler. The little blade took the beating with no chips or rolls, a sign of excellent heat treatment.
The edge withstood 30 whacks into a deer antler. The little blade took the beating with no chips or rolls, a sign of excellent heat treatment.

Half-inch sisal rope was next. The Adventurecraft put out 160 crunching cuts before some sliding ensued. The pressure I used on each cut made it challenging to hang on to the narrow handle. I really had to grip it tightly. It cut aggressively once I got going.

I checked the edge with 30 whacks into a deer antler. The little blade took the beating with no chips or rolls. Yep, excellent heat treatment! Back at the workbench, I grabbed the sheet of notebook paper for a second go-round. The Adventurecraft still sliced smoothly.

Final Cut

I would widen the handle for more leverage in cutting. This is a handy little blade to have around the campsite or in a backpack. It’s great for everyday uses.

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Cool Customs: Rocco Nawrocki’s Knife For Sergeant Bunker

Marine Corps hero feted with Nawrocki knife at The Battleship Ball.

An unforgettable setting for a memorable event celebrating an American hero—all complemented by a beautiful knife by Brian “Rocco” Nawrocki—completed a tribute to USMC Sergeant Scott Bunker during last year’s 250th anniversary of the United States Marine Corps.

Assigned to Lima Company in 2005 during the Iraq War, Sergeant Bunker took multiple machine-gun rounds at point-blank range in house-to-house fighting, resulting in the loss of an eye, half a lung, several ribs and soft-tissue damage to his left arm. He was the guest of honor at The Battleship Ball 2025 on November 1, held on the deck of the vintage World War II Battleship USS North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina.

Event organizer/USMC veteran Dean Smith (left) congratulates Sgt. Scott Bunker after delivery of the Nawrocki tribute knife (in display case on the dais) during The Battleship Ball.
Event organizer/USMC veteran Dean Smith (left) congratulates Sgt. Scott Bunker after delivery of the Nawrocki tribute knife (in display case on the dais) during The Battleship Ball.

The handsome fixed blade Rocco made for Sergeant Bunker includes steel from the North Carolina for the blade and guard. The wood handle is teak from the battlewagon’s deck, along with purple heart ribbon spacers.

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New Knives December 2025

If it needs cutting, do it in style with one of these gems.

Of any class of knife, there’s nothing handier than an EDC blade. From mending hoses to knocking down cardboard boxes and prying open stuck latches, these knives trim down daily chores. Though what exactly defines an EDC knife? Honestly, anything could be an everyday carry if you simply carry it every day. And while a few of our new knife picks aren’t precisely what you call your typical EDC, they’re certainly worthy of keeping at hand to cut into your workload.

Brian Milinski Paratrooper

Brian Milinski Paratrooper

BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: Dragonskin damascus by Bertie Rietveld
BLADE GRIND: Hollow
BLADE FINISH: Nitre salt blued
SCALES: Carbon fiber
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,650
MAKER: Brian Milinski, mrknives.com (Felipe Silva image)


Buck Knives 791 Range Elite

Buck Knives 791 Range Elite

KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3 3/8”
BLADE STEEL: MagnaCut stainless
BLADE GRIND: High-panel flat
BLADE OPENER: Thumb stud
HANDLE MATERIAL: Anodized aluminum
LINERS: Tumble-polished stainless
LOCK: Crossbar
POCKET CLIP: Deep carry, reversible
WEIGHT: 3.3 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
SPECIAL FEATURES: Spine gimping
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $275
COMPANY: Buck Knives, buckknives.com


Sean Alonzo Dalisay 2.8 Cigar Cutter

Sean Alonzo Dalisay 2.8 Cigar Cutter

BLADE LENGTH: 2.8”
BLADE MATERIAL: Yggdrasil pattern damascus by Damasteel
BLADE GRIND: Single bevel
SCALES: Mammoth tusk ivory
BOLSTER: Black burlap Micarta®
KNIFE TO KNOW: Pivot collar, inlay and thumb screws are mammoth ivory; zirconium pivot and backspacer
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $4,200
MAKER: Sean Alonzo, baleteblades.shop (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Brion Tomberlin Personal Carry Fighter

Brion Tomberlin Personal Carry Fighter

BLADE LENGTH: 4.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Ironwood
GUARD: 416 stainless steel
OVERALL LENGTH: 9.5”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $650
KNIFE TO KNOW: Brion Tomberlin is a master smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER: Brion Tomberlin (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Craig Brewer Slipjoint

Craig Brewer Slipjoint

BLADE LENGTH: 2.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: Mike Norris stainless damascus in a Frequency pattern
BLADE GRIND: Hollow
SCALES: Mammoth ivory
CLOSED LENGTH: 3”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,100
KNIFE TO KNOW: Craig Brewer is an apprentice smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER: Craig Brewer (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Quintin T. Hardtner IV Take-Down Frame-Handle Bowie

Quintin T. Hardtner IV Take-Down Frame-Handle Bowie

BLADE LENGTH: 8.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: Feather damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Curly koa
FURNITURE MATERIAL: Same as blade
SPACERS: Nickel silver
OVERALL LENGTH: 13.5”
KNIFE TO KNOW: Won Best Fixed Blade and Best of Show at the 2025 Louisiana Knife Show
SHEATH: Leather; custom made by Bob Bobbitt
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $3,000
MAKER: Quintin T. Hardtner IV (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Spartan Blades Soter Carbon Fiber Edition

Spartan Blades Soter Carbon Fiber Edition

KNIFE TYPE: EDC folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE STEEL: CPM S35VN stainless
ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 58-60 HRC
BLADE FINISH: Satin
HANDLE MATERIAL: Carbon fiber/G-10 composite
LOCK: RaceLock™
POCKET CLIP: Machined from one piece of steel, PVD-coated in flat dark earth
WEIGHT: 3.9 ozs.
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $310
KNIFE TO KNOW: Soter is the Greek mythological figure known as the “protector”
COMPANY: Spartan Blades, spartanbladesusa.com


Tory Utt Arkansas Hunter

Tory Utt Arkansas Hunter

KNIFE TYPE: Slipjoint
BLADE LENGTH: 4”
BLADE MATERIAL: Feather pattern damascus forged by Bill Poor
BLADE GRIND: Flat
BLADE PATTERN: Clip point
HANDLE FRAME: Nickel silver
SCALES: Westinghouse Micarta®
SHIELD: Mother-of-pearl
BOLSTERS: Topo pattern damascus forged by Tory Utt
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.25”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,300 range
KNIFE TO KNOW: Tory Utt has been making knives for 12 years
MAKER: Tory Utt, sacredbearknives.com (SharpByCoop image)


Mace Vitale Bowie

Mace Vitale Bowie

BLADE LENGTH: 12.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Tasmanian blackwood
GUARD & FERRULE: Mild steel
OVERALL LENGTH: 17.5”
KNIFE TO KNOW: The design is inspired by early American knives; Mace Vitale is a journeyman smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,750
MAKER: Mace Vitale (SharpByCoop image)


Bear & Son Cutlery 112A 4” Stainless Steel Framelock

Bear & Son Cutlery 112A 4” Stainless Steel Framelock

BLADE LENGTH: 2 7/8”
BLADE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud
OPENING MECHANISM: Assisted
HANDLE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
LOCK: Framelock
POCKET CLIP: Yes
WEIGHT: 3.8 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 3¾”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $59.99
COMPANY: Bear & Son Cutlery, bearandsoncutlery.com


Camillus Explorer

Camillus Explorer


BLADE LENGTH: 3”
BLADE STEEL: 3Cr13 stainless
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
HANDLE MATERIAL: Nylon glass fiber
LOCK: Crossbar
WEIGHT: 3 3/8 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Offshore
MSRP: $29.99
COMPANY: Camillus, camillusknives.com


5.11 Pryme Double Duty DP

5.11  Pryme Double Duty DP

KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: D2 tool steel
BLADE GRIND: Compound
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud
HANDLE MATERIAL: G-10 on mark side/420J2 stainless on lock side
BOLSTER MATERIAL: 420J2
LOCK: Framelock
POCKET CLIP: Steel, deep carry, reversible
WEIGHT: 5.3 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 5.125”
SPECIAL FEATURES: Built-in, full-handle-length pry tool/screwdriver/optic
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $85
CONTACT: 5.11, 5.11tactical.com

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EDC Fixed Blades: Compact And Ready For Any Task

Four U.S.-made EDC sheath knives take the author’s test.

EDC knives have been influenced by folding designs since the inception of steel, if not before. However, historically speaking, compact fixed blades were daily edged tools long before folders.

Cultures worldwide, both known and no doubt unknown, carried short sheath knives for utility, survival and ceremony. Japan’s tanto pierced with precision and Viking seaxes sliced with status. Native Americans relied on trade knives and ulus for skinning and barter. Indonesia’s badik and short kris blended practicality with spiritual meaning.

These blades reflected local needs and traditions, proving compact straight knives were essential long before EDC became a modern gear category.

Wharncliffe Vs. Sheepsfoot Blades

 The aptly named Bradford USA G3 Wharnie (top) has a classic wharncliffe blade while the Montana Knife Stockyard (bottom) boasts a modified sheepsfoot pattern.
The aptly named Bradford USA G3 Wharnie (top) has a classic wharncliffe blade while the Montana Knife Stockyard (bottom) boasts a modified sheepsfoot pattern.

Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades are similar and different. A wharncliffe features a long, straight cutting edge with a spine that tapers gradually to a fine, precise point. This geometry excels at controlled slicing, detailed scoring and utility work where accuracy at the tip is essential. The design allows steady pressure along the edge, making it ideal for carving, whittling and precision-driven EDC tasks.

A sheepsfoot, by contrast, has a straight edge with a spine that curves down sharply to meet the edge in a blunter tip. This greatly reduces the risk of piercing, making it safer for rescue work, controlled cuts and environments where safety matters most.

The wharncliffe offers versatility and precision for fine tasks, while the sheepsfoot provides dependable slicing power, rope-cutting efficiency and unmatched control under pressure. Together, they represent two specialized approaches to cutting—one prioritizing accuracy, the other emphasizing safety and reliability.—by Reuben Bolieu

Montana Knife Co. (MKC) Stockyard

The Montana Knife Stockyard whittled curly, thin feather sticks for a small twig stove. MKC offers free sharpening, cleaning and repair for life, ensuring the knife remains reliable for years to come.
The Montana Knife Stockyard whittled curly, thin feather sticks for a small twig stove. MKC offers free sharpening, cleaning and repair for life, ensuring the knife remains reliable for years to come.

Stockyard Specs
Blade Length: 3 3/8”
Blade @the Thickest: 0.115”
Blade Steel: MagnaCut stainless
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: G-10
Weight: 3.14 ozs.
Overall Length: 7 5/8”
Sheath: Kydex
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $300

Pros

  • MagnaCut Steel Blade
  • Company After-Purchase Support
  • Light

Cons

  • Expensive

The Montana Knife Co. (MKC) Stockyard is made in the USA and hand-finished in Montana. It embodies the rugged traditions of ranch life and strikes a balance between compact carry and the strength needed for long days in the field. Its MagnaCut stainless steel is known for toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance, and the blade’s thickness provides durability without excessive weight.

The sheepsfoot blade is designed for controlled slicing and safe utility, excelling in tasks such as cutting twine or trimming hooves where precision is crucial. The stonewash finish reduces glare and disguises wear, while the rugged G-10 scales in green and black ensure a secure grip, even in wet or gloved conditions. The ergonomic handle includes a “subtle hook profile” for extra control and quick deployment.

Each Stockyard comes with a USA-made Kydex sheath, featuring adjustable retention for a secure fit and both horizontal and vertical carry. The design keeps the knife accessible and comfortable, whether you’re riding fence lines or working in the shop. MKC also offers free sharpening, cleaning and repair for life, ensuring your knife remains reliable for years to come.

Bradford USA G3 Wharnie

Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades allow you to choke up toward the tip and use a forefinger for fine control work. The author used the technique with the Bradford USA G3 Wharnie on a fried egg eaten right out of his carbon-steel skillet.
Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades allow you to choke up toward the tip and use a forefinger for fine control work. The author used the technique with the Bradford USA G3 Wharnie on a fried egg eaten right out of his carbon-steel skillet.

G3 Wharnie Specs
Blade Length: 3.625”
Blade @the Thickest: 0.14”
Blade Steel: MagnaCut stainless
Rockwell Hardness: 63-64 HRC
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Natural burlap Micarta®
Weight: 3.96 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.875”
Sheath: Kydex
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $259

Pros

  • Compact
  • MagnaCut Blade Steel
  • Excellent Slicer

Cons

  • Might Not Be Good At Prying

Skilled makers in Kent, Washington, meticulously craft the Bradford USA G3 Wharnie, ensuring every detail meets the highest quality standards. The compact fixed blade strikes a balance between portability and cutting strength, making it ideal for everyday carry and outdoor use. The blade’s long, straight edge offers both reach and control, versatile enough for slicing tasks and utility work. The blade thickness provides durability without the weight, allowing for agility in the hand.

Forged from premium Bohler M390 or MagnaCut stainless, the blade excels in edge retention, toughness and corrosion resistance. The wharncliffe blade, featuring the straight edge and fine tip, is particularly suited for controlled slicing, scoring and detailed cutting. A choice between a stonewash or tumbled finish minimizes glare while concealing wear, giving the knife a rugged, industrious appearance.

The handle features 3D-contoured scales in a choice of G-10, Micarta, carbon fiber or G-Wood, ensuring a secure grip and long-lasting durability. The ergonomic shape fits comfortably in hand for extended use, whether in the field or workshop. Each G3 Wharnie comes with a taco-style Kydex sheath that offers secure retention and customizable carry options.

Big Idea Design Deano

Deano Specs
Designer: Mak Kelsay
Blade Length: 3.125”
Blade Steel: Nitro-V stainless
Blade @the Thickest: 0.14”
Blade Finish: Graphite black Cerakote®
Weight: 3.6 ozs.
Scales: Micarta®
Overall Length: 7.5”
Sheath: Kydex w/UltiClip 3.3
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $325

Pros

  • Versatile Blade
  • Good Carry System
  • Full-Sized Grip

Cons

  • Expensive

The Deano from Big Idea Design is made in America with global steel origins. Designed by Mak Kelsay in Chattanooga, Tennessee, it strikes a nice balance between compact carry and dependable working strength. The blade provides versatile cutting power for everyday carry, camping and outdoor use. It also offers durability without unnecessary bulk, keeping it agile in hand.

The Nitro-V stainless blade steel delivers excellent toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance in demanding environments. The modified drop point emphasizes control and practical utility. It tracks straight, bites clean and handles detail cuts with confidence. A graphite-black Cerakote®/tumbled finish creates a rugged, battle-worn look while reducing glare and concealing wear.

Scales are durable Micarta in black or green, providing a secure grip in all conditions. The ergonomic contour ensures comfort during extended use, whether in the field, workshop or camp.

The Deano includes a scout-carry Kydex sheath with an UltiClip Slim 3.3, offering secure retention and versatile carry options. The sheath system rides comfortably on a belt or pack, keeping the knife accessible and protected at all times.

Bear Forest Knives Stumpy

Stumpy Specs
Designer: Garrett Tremblay
Blade Length: 2 1/8”
Blade @the Thickest: .125”
Blade Steel: Nitro-V stainless
Blade Finish: Raw matte
Weight: 3.2 ozs.
Scales: Various Micarta®/wood/Bearcarta
Overall Length: 5 7/8”
Sheath: By JRE Industries of black leather
County of Origin: USA
MSRP: $200

Pros

  • Hand Built
  • Grind Options
  • Good Ergonomics

Cons

  • Smallish Handle

The Bear Forest Knives Stumpy is built by hand in the USA for everyday carry and outdoor reliability. It offers a compact profile that disappears on your belt. The short blade delivers precise cutting power for utility, camp chores and daily shop tasks, and strikes a balance between strength and nimble handling, making it quick and responsive in the hand.

The Nitro-V stainless blade steel provides excellent hardness, edge retention and corrosion resistance in demanding environments. The blade features a full flat grind but is also available with a Scandi grind. It has a 90-degree spine ideal for generating sparks with a ferro rod and for scraping tinder. A raw matte finish gives the knife a resilient, understated look while reducing glare and hiding wear.

Scales are available in Micarta, wood or Bearcarta, each offering durability, comfort and a secure grip in most all conditions. The ergonomic design ensures the knife locks naturally into your hand, even during extended use.

Each Stumpy includes a premium JRE Industries black leather sheath, designed for secure retention and comfortable carry. The sheath rides well on a belt or lanyard, keeping the knife accessible and protected wherever you go.

Real World Tests

There are two teams here, as I see it—straight blades and, more commonly, curved blades. Or, MagnaCut vs. Nitro-V. The blades were all hair-popping sharp out of the box, as expected. This is always the first test of any edged tool I get.

The handles are all unusual. The Stockyard and The Deano have full-sized grips, while the Stumpy and G3 Wharnie have shorter, more compact handles. The latter two also have beefier, hand-filling scales, adding to user comfort.

I had the Stumpy with its full flat grind the longest. It is the only EDC in the batch to have a straight, 90-degree sharpened spine. The continuous curve of the belly aided in making feather sticks for a fire, as did the sharp spine for striking a ferro rod. The smallish handle was comfortable due to the textured Micarta and thick scales. Besides, who doesn’t like a good Mexican blanket print on the scales?

The Deano has a thin handle, as many EDC fixed blades do. The scales are smooth and comfy—sleek. The modified drop point has a slightly clip-point feel and look.

On the utility side, I slashed through mounds of cardboard to break down boxes. I cut cardboard, not tape. (There’s nothing more annoying than a sticky blade on a good knife.) Slicing along the side of a box helps open it up and saves your edge, since it separates a lot of area with minimal gumminess. The light gimping was perfect for my forefinger when slicing down. I never use my thumb on the spine— it’s a bushcraft habit.

Wharny Or Sheepy?

The wharncliffe and sheepsfoot are two similar blade shapes with distinct attributes. I received the Bradford G3 Wharnie in MagnaCut first and rekindled my love for the straight-edge style with a curved spine. Nothing screams utility more than a straight edge similar to that of an X-Acto knife blade. Any box-opener blade fits in with the crowd, as does a wharncliffe. Tip-forward pressure is excellent for drawing back slices.

Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot blades allow you to choke up toward the tip and use a forefinger for fine, controlled work. I used the technique on a fried egg eaten right out of my carbon-steel skillet. Only a small amount of steel came in contact with the egg and skillet, as draw cuts use minimal edge.

I ran the MKC and Bradford through identical testing on various fibrous materials for practical EDC use. I sliced scrap leather, nylon webbing, zip ties, phone-charging and lamp cords, and lots of cardboard, all with zero issues. The more challenging materials were plastic packaging banding and 15,000-pound tow strapping. I severed the latter two media on a cutting board, draw cutting and push cutting. The forward leverage obtained from the straight-edge blades was apparent and much appreciated. Both blades sliced through the din with no holdups.

As for the performance difference between MagnaCut and Nitro-V, it has more to do with edge geometry and the materials you’re cutting than anything else. It would take a long time cutting similar materials with identical grinds on two knives to see any real difference. Suffice to say, these are two top-tier stainless steels.

Carry Systems

The test knives come with sturdy Kydex sheaths ready for scout carry.
The test knives come with sturdy Kydex sheaths ready for scout carry.

Besides the Bradford G3 Wharnie, two of the test knives are set up for scout carry with straps. The older model of the BFK Stumpy has one-strap retention for scout carry, which you can adjust to different positions. The MKC Stockyard has a Kydex fold-over sheath that easily attached to my belt while I was already wearing pants. The feature is incredibly convenient for those who often forget to put things on until it’s time to work.

The Deano came with options: scout carry strap set and UltiClip Slim 3.3, like a choose-your-own-adventure book. Bradford sent me a sturdy Kydex sheath without attachments. However, Bradford has order options on its website. I carried the Bradford entry like a slip sheath in my pocket and eventually attached it to a small carabiner to hang on my belt loop.

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Dagger Design: Fundamentals Of Dagger Construction

From maintaining symmetry to adding fullers, we break down the intricate process of making a dagger design into a physical knife.

A dagger is not a kitchen knife in disguise. It is a purpose-built instrument of thrust and that purpose demands precision at every stage of construction. Small errors that might pass unnoticed in a hunter or utility knife compound on the exacting canvas of the dagger. A centerline that begins drifting by a fraction at the ricasso becomes an off-center tip, an uncentered bevel a blade that twists, the result a thrust off target. The difference between success and failure is geometry, and nowhere does geometry matter more than in the making of a dagger.

The process begins with detailed design and planning. The execution begins with precise layout. The central axis is the spine on which the whole piece will rest, and without it symmetry is impossible—the whole blade will stand or fall on getting this right. There are some tricks that will help ensure success.

Dagger Half Template

The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.
The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.

Once you have determined the blade profile, preferably in some physical form like a drawing, make a template so it can be accurately transferred to steel. Here’s the thing, though: you only need half. A template representing only half of the blade profile will allow you to use it for each edge, ensuring perfect symmetry. Include the tang on your profile, not just the blade.

If you’re careful, your half template can be held on your blade stock aligned on a scribed center line and scribed on each side. If you’re less careful, oversize your blade stock and template so you can drill holes for alignment pins in the end of each that is outside the final profile. Using these holes to align the half template for marking each edge is the most precise way to lay out a symmetrical profile. If the stock is oversized, you’ll grind off the alignment holes when grinding the profile.

Planning Plunge Lines

Once you’ve accurately laid the profile out on the blade stock, take the time to scribe in the planned plunge lines on the blade flats and the edge. Sweeping, curved plunges are more visually appealing and careful layout will help ensure that your vision becomes reality. These lines are not decorative. They are the stops, targets if you will, that prevent the grind from slowly creeping toward the ricasso with each grinding pass.

Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.
Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.

When it comes to grinding these sweeping plunges, hollow grinding on a wheel is easier than flat grinding on a platen—it’s easier to grind a curve with a curve—but by all means use a flat platen if that’s what you have. If you’re already grinding on a wheel, a 1-inch-wide wheel with a 1-inch belt will be an easier path to success than the standard 2-inch wheel and belt.

Sweeping plunges also will result in a thicker edge toward the ricasso. This is fine—you shouldn’t try to sharpen this part as doing so most likely will ruin all your careful design work. Will the unsharpened part of the edge impair the stabbing function? Perhaps, but only a little. Though it pains a serious knife person to admit it, most handmade modern daggers are for show. In most societies stabbing others is frowned on, and if you’re going to all this effort, choosing to focus on aesthetics is a good bet. However, if your dagger will be deployed in combat, ignore the aesthetics, grind sharper plunges and take the edge all the way to the ricasso.

Dagger Grinding And Stock Removal

Grinding and stock removal are the way to go for daggers. This is admittedly a hot take but in a game where winning is determined by symmetry, forging introduces unnecessary variables and distorts the base stock, making accurate layout more complicated—not impossible, just not as easy. There is little to gain by forging unless the steel itself or the situation requires it, or if you simply like doing it that way. If you want a damascus pattern to taper toward the tip, or if you’re making a dagger for American Bladesmith Society testing, by all means forge. It’s an impressive skill set. If you want to make the best dagger possible with an eye toward efficiency, and thereby your profit margins, grind it. Stock removal is the more predictable path, and predictability is the soul of symmetry. Every forged blade is a stock removal blade before it’s completed; don’t get hung up on this unless you have reason to.

Delicacy Of The Dagger Tip

Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.
Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.

Where the mass of the ricasso anchors the entire weapon and provides strength at the critical juncture of guard and tang, the tip, by contrast, demands delicacy. Once your profile is carefully ground to shape and you turn to grinding the bevels, grind the tip first. More specifically, grind it at a steeper angle than you plan for the main bevels, and try not to cross the centerline even at that obtuse degree, except at the very end. After that, leave it alone.

Grind the main bevels like you normally would, paying perhaps more attention than usual to your scribed lines, and try to avoid that last inch toward the tip until everything else is pretty much done. This seems a bit odd at first, but consider that the final inch must maintain its thickness in order to be strong enough to pierce effectively without deformation or fracture. If you do it right, you’ll end up with a bevel at the transition. Some makers polish the transition so it remains crisp, while others blend it smooth while polishing. Either way, it should be deliberate. Neglect this and the point will be too thin.

When To Add Fullers

Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.
Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.

Fullers, if they are to be included, should be cut early while the blank still has parallel flats. Attempting them later invites misalignment, or at the least inserts a potentially unnecessary level of difficulty. Better machinists than this writer/dagger enthusiast will likely have little difficulty either way, but life has enough complications of its own without inviting them into play.

Dagger Balance

Balance matters as much as steel. A well-made dagger should balance at or just ahead of the guard, a neutral point where the hand feels neither burdened nor abandoned. This can be tested with nothing more elaborate than a rod beneath the mostly assembled knife, shifting it until it rests level. It’s really just as easy to adjust weight distribution by feel, removing or adding weight to the component parts until it feels right. Don’t forget to consider the added weight of your epoxy. When balance is right, the blade becomes an extension of the wrist, alive and responsive.

Tang & Spacers

How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.
How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.

Even the tang deserves forethought. When profiling the blade blank, leaving the tang longer than necessary provides room for correction and fitting, and a threaded end can serve as both a work-holding aid during construction and a permanent anchor if a pommel or nut will close the assembly.

Spacers, fitted between guard and handle and again between handle and pommel, make alignment easier and allow pins to register each component precisely during glue-up. They’re also relatively easy targets for weight adjustment when working on overall balance. These details are seldom glamorous but are what let the final assembly come together without struggle.

Embellishments

What results from this attention is not decoration but readiness. The embellishments will come later… the fluted handles and twisted wires and all the flourishes that mark the master’s hand. But none of that matters if the design is poor, the execution haphazard, the details unconsidered.

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