Here are BLADE Magazine’s Featured Knives of the Week. Browse through these articles to find the best knives available from both custom knifemakers and factory knives.
The New Rescuehawk From White River Knife & Tool Is An Excellent Fixed-Blade Multi-Tool That Will Make Any Outdoorsman Happy.
Not every multi-tool folds up and fits in your pocket, and that’s a good thing. For someone looking for a more robust multi-tool, the new tactical Rescuehawk from White River Knife & Tool is exactly what you’re looking for.
Made from quarter-inch thick 80CRV2 steel, and designed by Kurt Delia, the Rescuehawk does a little of everything. The head features a 2.6-inch splitting edge with a strong piercing point horn on the opposite end.
The handle is incredibly versatile with a half-inch gas line channel wrench and split chisel pry point and textured G10 handle scales to provide excellent grip. The included bottom-eject Kydex sheath keeps the blade safe and secure in transit.
Overall, this tool is excellent for any outdoor lover and is great to have in case of an emergency or survival situation.
Fire-starter knives make sparks when you need them most.
Bushcraft skills have grown immensely in popularity in the past few years. It could be the slew of TV shows promoting survival situations or just perhaps an interest in self-sufficiency. What is true is that the knife industry is playing catch-up to the bushcrafting market, and many new products pop up that have features dedicated to keeping you alive and warm in the woods.
Fire Starting Knives
Recent years have seen an influx of knife features deemed ideal for use with another essential tool—the ferro rod striker. Ferro rods are made of ferrocerium, an alloy consisting of several base metals and magnesium. Magnesium is highly reactive and generates showers of sparks as it is scraped against steel. Think of it as a more modern version of flint. Ideally, the ferro rod is struck against a sharp, acute surface. Many people use the blade’s edge for this, though this is not recommended as dull spots can emerge quickly.
As time passed, people began sharpening the blade spines to 90 degrees, making a hard, sharp angle that is not on the cutting edge. Still, others find this feature annoying, as it is fully possible to injure your hand on a squared spine. I know because I’ve done it.
As a remedy, people started cutting in little semi-circular cutouts into the spine that still retain a square shoulder, thus allowing for safer handling when striking. Both a fully sharpened spine and the sharpened cutout are valid features; it depends on what style you prefer.
Strike the rod against the sharp corner of the blade spine to create sparks and ignite the tinder. (Mary Lou Ayres image)
The smaller cutout is really just a striking feature but the fully sharpened spine can be used for a number of other ends, most notably an easy and effective means of peeling carrots, potatoes and other root vegetables for the camp kitchen. Many top fire-making knives have sharp-angled spines and cutouts ideal for striking.
Bowdrill Divits
Some bushcraft knives have bow drill divots in the grips. No less than 10 knives I’ve tested in the past year have the feature and I’ve yet to master its use.
A bow drill is a very primitive means of starting a fire with friction. It takes about forever and even then is not a guaranteed success. In terms of time management and the amount of calories used in a survival situation, I really don’t think it is worthwhile, though it’s nice that the feature is there.
The bow drill is basically a stick you press down on while at the same time you spin it with a bow (a stick with string wrapped around it) to create an ember. The idea behind a knife with a divot on the handle is it allows you to make kindling and all the tools you need to make a basic fire. You can use the knife to make the string (plant fiber), the drilling board (piece of dry wood) and bow/drill (stick).
All three knives were tested side-by-side in equal conditions to see how well they performed in making a fire. All succeeded.
BLADE® Editor Steve Shackleford asked me to test the knives in this capacity as long as it didn’t detract from the other standard knife testing. “Skip it if it’s too much,” he stated. “I don’t want to wear you out.” However, in the spirit of making the story as detailed as possible inside the 1,500-word limit, I tried the TOPS and White River knives with the handle divots to see if I could, in fact, start a fire using the bow drill.
I was unsuccessful with both but did end up getting a fire going with a cheap bow drill kit from Amazon. No matter how you slice it, using a bow drill is just a huge pain in the keister and I’d rather stick a standard lighter in every pocket of my gear and an extra one in my boot than have to resign myself to using a bow drill.
A large reason why I really didn’t like using the divot features was that they really require you to keep the knife in the sheath. Otherwise, you’re just sitting there putting pressure on a knife with the edge floating out in space. It is easy to get into a trance while using a bow drill, and I found myself not paying attention at several points—not a safe situation.
Holding the knives in their sheaths is not very comfortable as they are hard Kydex. There was no real comfortable way to put pressure on the drill while gripping the sheath. Eventually, I gave up and decided if I ever did have to use a bow drill, I’d just find another piece of wood and carve a divot with the knife instead.
White River Knife & Tool FC-PKO
The White River FC-PKO is an end-stage tool in that it can readily start fires, the author noted, but lacks the strength and blade thickness to take down anything more than sticks.
White River Knife & Tool makes excellent knives. In fact, they are some of the most well-laid out and functional I’ve tested in my time with BLADE®. I have used the company’s larger FC7 as my main deer hunting knife in camp and have, between myself and my friends, packed out no less than 50 deer with it. I was happy to review the smaller FC-PKO, sort of a little brother to the FC7.
The FC-PKO is a modified puukko style with a Scandi grind and a ring pommel. The Kydex sheath is low profile. My initial impressions were that the knife is small, thin and razor sharp. I immediately thought it would be a perfect knife for pheasant or duck. I found it a champion at cutting tinder and kindling, but not up to larger work. The knife is an end-stage tool in that it can readily start fires, but lacks the strength and blade thickness to take down anything more than sticks. You’ll need a larger tool to actually prepare the wood prior to using the FC-PKO.
As far as fire-making ability, it is a solid performer. The knife has a small notch on the spine that ignites the ferro rod easily. The edge can trim extremely fine curls of tinder. Where I ran into problems was the ring pommel. I have large hands and long fingers, so this may not be an issue to everyone, but I found my pinky largely just floating in space. I couldn’t get comfortable with the ring. That said, it is overall a great knife that will ultimately see years of service on my belt.
White River Knife & Tool FC-PKO Specs Knife Type: Modified puukko Blade Length: 3.7” Blade Steel: CPM S35VN stainless Blade Grind: Scandi Blade at Thickest: .125” Handle Material: Micarta® w/orange liners and bow-drill divot Weight: 4.6 ozs. Overall Length: 8.1” Sheath: Black Kydex w/striker loop Striker: Included, basic rubber grip Country of Origin: U.S.A. MSRP: $200
TOPS Knives Fieldcraft
The author described the Fieldcraft as “a beast of a knife that weighs nearly a pound and is built like a tank.”
The TOPS Knives Fieldcraft by Brothers of Bushcraft is a beast of a knife that weighs nearly a pound and is built like a tank. The edge is razor sharp despite the steep grind and can split medium-size firewood easily. The handle is thick and robust and you can really get a grip on it. I find large knives like this almost too much for regular use, but this one fits into the niche of being large enough for constant use and not too big to be a burden.
The knife has a striker cut in the pommel as opposed to the blade spine. That said, you can order it with a sharpened spine if you wish. I wanted to test the base model to get an idea of what the average owner would experience. If I want to add a sharp spine, I can do so on my grinder or have TOPS do it. The pommel striker is not easy to get used to—you have to find a safe direction to point the blade, which can be difficult. That said, you can leave it in the sheath for this part—just be careful not to launch it out while striking. The cutout is effective once you get used to it.
TOPS Knives Fieldcraft Specs Knife Type: Full-size bushcrafter Blade Length: 4.75” Blade Steel: 154CM stainless Blade Grind: Modified Scandi Blade at Thickest: .19” Handle Material: Tan canvas Micarta® w/red liners and bow-drill divot Weight: 14 ozs. Overall Length: 10” Sheath: Black Kydex w/striker loop Striker: Included, basic aluminum grip Knife to Know: There are numerous other Fieldcraft models available in different materials and colors Country of Origin: U.S.A. MSRP: $295
Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife
According to the author, the Casström “has everything I like and nothing I didn’t—not too big, not too small and pleasant to look at.”
The classic-looking Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife is reminiscent of such Scandinavian knives as the puukko. It is not a traditional puukko but rather a somewhat modern take on the longstanding Nordic tradition of general-use fixed blades. Many American knives in the bushcraft world have a somewhat gritty, tactical feel and a somewhat industrial appearance. The No. 10 is not terribly exciting in looks but hides its function under a gentle exterior. It was my favorite knife in the review, which may surprise you. It has everything I like and nothing I didn’t—not too big, not too small and pleasant to look at.
The knife has a smooth grip—be careful if you’re not wearing gloves, it can get a tad slippery—and a plain, graceful blade. The angle of the spine is sharpened but not so aggressively that it would risk injury. It is not a particularly thick blade but can handle some medium-to-small splitting work if you’re careful, and makes kindling and scrapes tinder well. The knife strikes easily anywhere on the spine and offers a great deal of control. Of note, the sheath is leather and has a ferro rod with a matching green/black Micarta® grip. As a set the knife and rod look very nice together. The rod was also the easiest to hold onto thanks to it having the largest grip area.
Casström No. 10 Swedish Forest Knife Specs Knife Type: General-purpose Scandi Blade Length: 3.75” Blade Steel: Sandvik 14C28N stainless Blade Grind: Full flat Blade at Thickest: .13” Handle Material: Green/black Micarta® w/black liners Weight: 5.75 ozs. Overall Length: 8.6” Sheath: Black leather w/striker loop Striker: Included, matching green/black Micarta handle Knife to Know: According to the author, the knife has the most user-friendly sheath of the test bunch Country of Origin: Sweden MSRP: Approximately $200
Fire Starter Knife Final Cut
Starting a fire can be a challenge, especially in adverse conditions. Considering just how cheap common lighters and survival matches are, knives like the ones in this article should probably not be your primary means of starting a fire in an emergency. These knives are capable tools that provide a level of redundancy to your kit in some very good, non-obtrusive ways. The base-level skills needed to start a fire can be obtained with each of these knives with relative ease, but you will still need to make sure to have the skills necessary to maintain a fire in the wilderness.
Always be sure that you are not making a bad situation worse with fire, and make sure you’re not using a knife under less-than-ideal conditions. If you have a lighter or matches, use them first, especially in the dark.
This New Release From CRKT Is Timed In Conjunction With National Knife Day. The Newest Entrant In the Squid Line Has New Features And High-Quality Steel
It’s National Knife Day, and CRKT has released a limited-edition knife to celebrate the day. The all new Squid II OD Green, which was made in Italy, debuts today and combines everything knife fans love about CRKT with the craftsmanship of a custom knife. Only 500 units of this model are being sold.
The blade is made from stonewashed Böhler M390 steel which merges excellent edge retention and wear resistance. Ground to a plain edge, the blade is 2.68 inches in length and has a 58-61 HRC.
In a first for the Squid line, the knife features a liner lock to secure the blade in place, and the IKBS ball bearing pivot system allows for fast, smooth deployment. The handle is made from green Micarta for a rugged look, and a lanyard hole allows you to take the knife anywhere you are.
“The Squid™ II is far and away one of the finest knives we’ve ever produced,” said Doug Flagg, VP of Marketing & Innovation for CRKT. “This knife combines decades of design experience with the aspirations of what we’re trying to achieve as a brand and we’re confident it’s a knife that will stand the test of time.”
The knife goes on sale today and has an MSRP of $185
Drawknives Are A Woodworker’s Best Friend And One Of Many Unique Knives Craftsmen Use Regularly
Knives take on many shapes and sizes. As tools, their designs sometimes focus on specific tasks. In the case of the drawknife, it is designed for woodworking. Drawknives have been found to date back to the Viking era more than a millennium ago.
The design itself takes many different shapes for a variety of purposes. At times, it is not referred to as a drawknife but, at first glance, you can see the relationship and how a number of tools can be considered part of the same family. As with any tool, different cultures have different interpretations of how the tool should be designed.
What Is A Drawknife?
A drawknife is a single-beveled blade placed between two handles. The tool gets its name from how it is used. You simply grab both handles and draw the knife towards you bevel up. Controlling the angle that the blade enters the wood will control the depth of cut. A steep angle will get you a deeper, more aggressive cut but will also require more effort.
Lowering the angle makes for a shallower cut and also gives you a finer finish as the material is removed less aggressively. Some designs have long handles on plane with the blade. Other designs have the handle tight in and below the plane of the blade. No matter where the handles are, the action is the same but the point of control changes.
Top row, from left: a German-style drawknife made in Western Germany, Mora push knife, English-style drawknife, Flexcut 5-inch drawknife and a cooper’s knife. Bottom row, same order: Round drawknife and a chair maker’s scorp.
How To Use A Drawknife
When working with a narrow stock up to two inches wide, it’s easy enough to draw the knife straight back toward you. On wider stock, it is better to skew the knife. Skewing the knife provides a leading edge and causes less resistance during the cut. When working with hardwoods you want to keep the cut light, as the dense grain provides more resistance and bogs the knife down.
If you skew the knife and work the corners it is easy to remove long curls.
Even when working a flat when skewing the drawknife blade you can get some beautiful shavings.
Learning to use a drawknife properly is a bit like working a puzzle. The easiest way to make a cut is to work the facets of the material. For instance, say we are working on a piece that is square. To shape the piece to the required size it is easier to work the corners down, creating more corners until you get to your desired shape. By working the flats, you must use more energy and struggle to make a cut.
When first using a drawknife, the tendency is to use your arms to power the tool. Instead, use your back muscles, which are larger and less likely to fatigue quickly. Draw the knife back as if you were using the same muscle for rowing. If done right, it should feel like your shoulder blades are trying to meet in the middle of your back. For safety’s sake, keep your elbows in tight. As you draw the knife back your elbows will hit your core acting as a safety stop, preventing you from slipping and cutting yourself.
Types Of Drawknifes
A debarking knife is usually a larger style of drawknife used for extracting bark from logs. They are larger and heavier than their woodworking counterparts so that you can blast through the bark.
It has been my experience that when working green wood, the knife doesn’t need to be kept as sharp. In fact, it is somewhat more helpful to keep the knife a bit dull when cutting green wood so as to avoid diving too deep into the wood itself. On seasoned logs, because of the lack of sap between the bark and sapwood, I find it better to have the knife a bit sharper.
Woodworking drawknives come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The two main types I have used: English and German. The English style has a blade that bares a slight arch and the handles are on the same plane as the blade. German-style knives have handles that sit lower than the blade and the blade tends to be straight. The knives’ handles can vary. Most of mine have a pear-like shape. There are other styles like a round knob style, which is a ball shape.
The English style drawknife has a small but thin bevel that makes for some beautiful curls.
The German knife has a steep angle to the bevel. If used straight across a narrow piece wood, it can remove large amounts of material. At the time of the photo, the author had not finished cleaning up the blade, ergo the hammer marks in it.
Specialty styles of knives include any drawknife that is shaped to obtain a specific result. A cooper’s knife is shaped to accommodate the making of barrel staves. I also have a handle-making knife. The handle-making knife is a tight arch designed to make handles for things like brooms or garden implements. The basic shape is a half circle, so instead of trying to round a piece off by angling a number of cuts, you get a piece of wood close to size and simply let the knife shape it.
The cooper’s shave is designed to hollow out the staves of a barrel.
Push Knife
The model uses the Mora push knife to clean up curls left at the bottom of a curve. With the push knife, you can work the wood in an opposite direction without repositioning the piece.
A Scandinavian invention, the push knife is similar to a drawknife in that it has a blade attached by two handles on either side. Using a push knife is different in the way that you are expected to force the edge away from your body instead of pulling it toward you. Unlike a drawknife, the handles come straight out from the sides, which allows you to either push or pull the knife. I normally use the knife in the manner that gets the job done—meaning on occasion I will draw the knife toward me rather than push.
What Is A Scorp?
Technically, scorps are not drawknives. However, in terms of looks and use you can’t help but lump them in the same family. I have a chair maker’s scorp that is designed to hollow out the seats of chairs. On older chairs is a slight depression where the person sits. A chair maker’s scorp was used to produce the shape. The tool operates just like a drawknife except it has a shorter blade with a more pronounced arch.
How To Sharpen A Drawknife
Like any other cutting tool, a drawknife must be sharpened. Perhaps the trickiest part of sharpening a drawknife is finding a way to brace it. I find dynamic sharpening the easiest way to sharpen a drawknife. I brace the knife and move the sharpening medium instead of the other way around. One way to brace the knife for sharpening is to put one handle in your armpit and hold the other handle in your off hand. Once the knife is braced this way, take a stone to it. Another way is to brace one handle on the bench, lean your chest on the other handle, and then begin sharpening. Keep in mind a drawknife must be sharp (except where noted previously) but since it is not necessarily a fine woodworking tool, don’t get carried away.
YouTuber James Wright shows you how to sharpen a drawknife using a set of sharpening stones in his shop.
Lastly, keep it oiled. Even the newer ones are not made from new high-tech steels. Most are from simple carbon stock and a light coat of oil goes a long way. Among others, Flexcut offers a contemporary drawknife.
Other Wood Carving Tools
Beyond drawknives and planes, there are many other types of wood carving knives out there that can help with some of the finer points of woodworker. Small, nimble wood carving knives like a sloyd knife or a spoon knife.
A sloyd knife is a short, sturdy blade good for small, finite carving tasks. A spoon knife, as the name suggests, is meant to carve out the concave scoop of a spoon but can be used for any other situation where you are trying to create a concave dip in the material.
There are certainly more than just these few tools to being a successful woodworker, but knowing how to use wood carving tools big or small can get you on the path to success.
Why To Use A Drawknife
Long before there was solar power, fossil fuel power, steam power, etc., there was muscle power. Humans developed the world using tools with muscle and sweat. There is something satisfying about making something by hand. The feel of a good day’s work is sometimes what the soul needs. A drawknife not only gets the job done but also gives you an accomplishment to savor.
The SOG Recondo FX Is A Top-Tier Knife For The Hunter Or The Outdoorsman. A Nimble Fixed Blade, It Can Withstand The Wear Of Regular Use With Ease.
Sometimes you need a knife with a little more heft and a little more punch than a standard pocket knife. When you’re out on the hunt it’s imperative to have tools that can hold up to tasks big or small, easy or debilitating.
The new SOG Recondo FX is the knife you’re looking for. A full-tang, fixed blade made of 440C steel and cryogenically treated to a black nitride finish, the Recondo FX is the type of knife you’ll be able to trust in a pinch.
You can choose between a straight edge or a partially serrated blade when buying the knife. Both versions have a clip point and are 4.6 inches long. Additionally, you can choose between a black handle or a dark earth handle. Each is made with an overmolded grip and rubberized texture. This is designed so you can maintain a strong hold of the knife even if your hands get wet or slippery.
SOG Recondo FX in its sheath
Regardless of the style you choose, your knife will also come with a UMS-compatible sheath that won’t need any tools to set thanks to its adjustable tension system. The sheath is made of Kydex and can be mounted in a variety of positions.
This knife won’t be your normal EDC. What it will be is a tool worthy of being added to your set when you go hunting or into the outdoors. Strong, light, and easy to maneuver, SOG has, once again, made a top-quality knife.
MSRP: $129.95
Editor’s Note: This article was written by Mike Ableson.
Custom Flipping Folders Are Becoming More And More Popular By The Day. These Are Some Of The Coolest Custom Flippers.
The energy surrounding the custom flipper folder market is rising to new heights these days with the fit and finish, good looks and liveliness of high-quality materials, incredible skill, and, best of all, imagination.
A look at the current trends among some of the best in the class offers the custom knife market perspective on the future while also allowing a moment to appreciate and absorb the excellence around us. The commitment to make flipper folders isn’t taken lightly; it involves a concentrated effort to achieve, meet, and overcome the challenges in bringing this type of custom knife to life.
Dan Thornburg – Albuquerque, NM
Of his flipper folders Dan Thornburg said, “Little things like the cutout on the lockbar or depth of bearing pockets all affect how smooth the action will be.” The blade is Moku-Mai by Baker Forge and the handle is ancient walrus ivory. Closed length: 5 inches. His price for a similar knife: $2,000. (Image: SharpByCoop)
“I really enjoy making flipper folders because of the challenge they present in both mechanical function and working with different materials,” explained Dan Thornburg of Albuquerque, New Mexico. “I like figuring out how things work or why something doesn’t.”
Thornburg got started in flipper folders after meeting Paul Lusk at a Houston knife show years ago. “This guy is one of the smartest people I’ve ever met and is one heck of a good businessman,” Dan said of Paul. “His encouragement helped my knifemaking get to the next level.”
Evidence of that next level is readily apparent in Dan’s flipper in a handle of ancient walrus ivory with damascus bolsters. Made by Baker Forge, the blade material is Moku-Mai—mokume forge welded over 80CrV2 carbon steel. Dan said it’s not unlike a san-mai construction using mokume. The product of his ingenuity reflects an intense technical appreciation.
“I don’t think I’ve changed the design as much as refined the design,” he reasoned. “Little things like the cutout on the lockbar or depth of bearing pockets all affect how smooth the action will be. I do try to keep it simple and not reinvent the wheel, so to speak.”
Thornburg succeeds handsomely in his mission, paying close attention to detail and applying a natural talent for precision. He indicated he likes the flipper tab to double as a single guard and fashions it with the same material as the blade. Then, he advises the owners of his flipper folders to learn their safe operation.
“I think, just like most things, operating a flipper folder is a learned thing,” he said. “The more you flip it open, the easier it becomes. My dad still couldn’t open the best and smoothest folder I’ve made—too old school I guess! For someone that owns and loves flippers, most will fly open.”
Eliot Maldonado – Bulverde, TX
“Having a shorter tab is easier on pockets and looks cleaner,” Eliot Maldonado stated. “When the knife is closed, the tab doubles as a guard, but it is still short enough so that it does not ‘ouch’ your finger when closing.” His flipper employs a tanto blade of Moku-Mai by Baker Forge Steel and a marbled-carbon-fiber handle and Micarta® bolsters. Closed length: 4 inches. (Image: SharpByCoop)
Eliot Maldonado of Bulverde, Texas, started his custom knifemaking career making slip joints and then saw an opportunity. About 15 years ago, he had helped knifemaking friend Alan Davis work with slippies, and Davis assisted Maldonado with linerlocks in turn.
“Soon after, and knowing the function of linerlocks, I experimented with flippers,” Eliot explained. “It was a successful outcome and the passion for flippers started.”
Eliot’s flipper in Baker Forge damascus, a Micarta® bolster, and a marbled carbon-fiber handle demonstrate his appreciation of the finer points in the endeavor. His use of materials has also progressed from the early days. Back then he used basics just in case something went wrong. As he has become more proficient, upgrades to higher-quality blade and handle materials followed.
“I also started changing up patterns, those patterns that appealed to me,” Maldonado said, “like, I enjoy making folders with a classic kind of western—cowboy—look but still make more traditional tactical-type flippers as well.”
Eliot pays special attention to the flipper tab, applying a technique that enhances the action of blade deployment.
“Of course, the use of bearings changes the game when it comes to flippers, and I like a shorter tab with a checkering or ridge for traction. I feel having a shorter tab is easier on pockets and looks cleaner. When the knife is closed, the tab doubles as a guard, but it is still short enough so that it does not ‘ouch’ your finger when closing.”
Eliot is a firm believer in the assertive action of a flipper folder, and he makes no apologies for being a purist.
“I believe a flipper should snap to open position when flicked by a finger,” he related. “Anything other than that is just not acceptable to me. The way I achieve that is by using caged bearings, stop pin position, the liner relief cut, and the perfect tolerance on the blade and back spacer. The result should be a fast opening with zero blade play and strong lockup.”
Todd Rexford – Florissant, CO
Todd Rexford’s futuristic flipper folder features a stainless damascus blade and a handle of DarkTi zirconium and titanium overlays. The overlays extend into the inside of the frame, while the mechanism features an inlaid lockbar and detent pin. Closed length: 4.6 inches. (Image: SharpByCoop)
The flipper folder genre has changed since Todd Rexford of Florissant, Colorado, began his journey some years ago. He credits demand as the catalyst for focusing his creativity on flipper folders.
“They were in their infancy when I started making them,” he commented. “There were some very good makers doing it, but back then the thumb stud still ruled the folder world. It was really my customers that wanted me to start making them, and I had ideas for my own flippers as well, for what I wanted to see and what the way forward was for my knives.”
The way forward for Todd is clearly indicated by a fine flipper folder of stainless damascus with a handle of DarkTi zirconium and titanium overlays. The overlays extend into the inside of the frame, while the mechanism features a hardened stainless pivot, inlaid lockbar, and detent pin with the Rexford radius bearing system integrated. A titanium pocket clip and back spacer complete the stunning package.
Todd sees the operation of the flipper folder as a critical element of the overall presentation, but hesitates to favor fully opening vs. more of an assisted movement.
“I don’t judge,” he offered. “If a wrist snap is needed, then so be it. We can’t forget that when I make a stiff-detent lockbar flipper, you won’t be able to open it slowly. It will open with authority and everyone around you will hear it. This goes to show that each detent force has its own place depending on the end users and their task requirements.”
Nonetheless, the smooth operation of the flipper folder is a hallmark of a successfully completed professional effort.
“The detent force, and how much preload you can place on the system before it overcomes the detent, is one factor that determines if the knife will fully open or not,” Rexford asserted.
“The other factor is the person and his or her finger,” he continued. “Through my years of building flippers, I’ve built everything on the spectrum of this force. Take a stiff detent to a show and half the people love it; half the people can’t open it. I’ve had users time some of my very fast knives in a pseudo drag race using camera-frame timing because they love it, but for a lot of people they may not be able to open that knife. At the end of the day it’s a preference, and I have stopped ‘standardizing’ my force. Yes, a flick will open the knife, but the velocity of the tip may change to suit different customers.”
The Skiff Family – Broadalbin, NY
The Culprit flipper folder by Steven Skiff, Jr. and Sr. won Best in Show at the 2022 NCCA Show. The blade is Damasteel stainless damascus in a Fafnir pattern. Closed length: 4.25 inches. The makers’ price for a similar knife: $1,495.
The father-son team of Steven Skiff, Sr., and Steven Skiff, Jr., from Broadalbin, New York, collaborates to make their own bold statement in the flipper folder realm. While Steven, Sr. makes the blades and does fit and finish, Steven, Jr. handles the CNC milling and produces blade bearings for the Skiffs’ projects, as well as bearings for other customers in the knife industry.
The Skiffs enjoy tackling the relative intricacy of flipper folder construction and relish the opportunity to demonstrate their proficiency, particularly with their team approach.
“Making flippers is a challenge,” Steven, Sr remarked. “They are deceptively simple looking to make. It can be difficult to get the action exactly the way you want. It’s that challenge that I enjoy and it makes me prefer making them over other knives.”
The Skiffs’ Culprit framelock flipper folder features a blade of Damasteel stainless damascus in a Fafnir pattern, and a titanium handle with zirconium accents and seafoam anodizing. The result is dazzling, and Steven, Sr. credits custom knifemaking greats Andre Thorburn, R.J. Martin, and Kirby Lambert for “having a hand in increasing my interest to continue making flippers.”
The flipper construction process has progressed in the years since the Skiffs began to concentrate on the style. One aspect of that progress is the addition of an over-travel stop.
“That’s an example of one important advancement that [a number of] us makers started using on framelocks a while ago,” Steven, Sr. observed. “Another advancement includes the evolution of using bearings instead of thrust washers, and we also use a hardened insert in the lockbar to prevent wear.”
The Flipper Folder Continues To Grow
The firm foundation of the flipper folder, both in popularity and mechanical and aesthetic quality, sets the stage for the future.
“I do predict we will see further refinement in materials, as well as in material quality over the coming years,” Rexford assessed. “We have also seen new locking mechanisms being adapted for the flipper category of knives.”
Maldonado looks ahead to “future advances in making a double-action flipper/auto. Of course, using new and exotic blade and handle materials is always something that keeps evolving.”
Future generations of collectors and users come to mind with Thornburg’s ideas of tomorrow. He commented, “I like to use materials that are not common when making my flippers. Mammoth, walrus and elk antler are my main scale materials, and my idea is a fine gentleman’s flipper folder for the upscale customer that will be handed down to their children.”
Altogether, the custom makers and their colleagues are doing their part to ensure that the flipper folder has staying power.
Editor’s note: The author (Josh Wayner) spent the better part of five years working in a high-end specialty butcher shop in coastal west Michigan. That shop is no longer in business, though what he learned there has stayed with him and, as he noted, is very dear to his heart. We thought him to be the ideal writer to do a story on five of today’s factory boning knives. We think you will agree.
A former butcher’s mate gives boning knives the full test treatment to find the best boning knife.
I hunt deer and other large game regularly and own all my own professional processing equipment. Among these items is the most basic and essential tool: the boning knife. As a butcher’s mate and now as a full-time outdoor writer, I have some opinions on these blades and how to best use them.
A boning knife is a rather specialized tool, and getting the right shape for removing meat from bone is the name of the game. In my span hunting I’ve either shot or helped process hundreds of deer. I hunt the most game-rich areas in Michigan, and it’s common for my party to land a dozen deer in a night. The best knife for working on a deer is a 5-to-7-inch saber-ground blade of a steel about 3/16 inch thick that features an ample, comfortable handle.
The knife you absolutely do not want is a boning knife for this type of work. In my experience, a boning knife is for kitchen work, though I favor it as a primary knife for game under 50 pounds live weight.
The reason I offer here is that I’ve never seen an injury with a proper large-format field knife. Where I have seen horrible injuries is with thin-bladed knives like those in this article. They have the sickening tendency to snap off when going through sternums and joints; the flexibility has a limit and I’ve personally witnessed a dozen snapped blades, with half of the snaps resulting in a serious hand injury. Extreme care must be taken with ultra-thin, razor-sharp blades. In the process of creating this article, my friend who helped me process the deer meat in the photos was cut to the bone himself with an errant flick of the blade.
Best Boning Knives
Best Dedicated Boning Knife: The Knives of Alaska (KoA) Professional Boning Knives
Kitchen Functional Boning Knife: Ontario 72-6
General Use Boning Knife: Condor Tool & Knife Butcher Knife
Scalpel Sharp Boning Knife: Benchmade Meatcrafter
Best Boning Knives Specs Comparison
Knife
Blade Length (inches)
Blade Material
Handle Material
Weight (ounces)
Overall Length (inches)
Sheath
Country of Origin
MSRP
Ontario 72-6
6.25
1095 spring
Hardwood
4.8
10.75
N/A
USA
$15
Condor Tool & Knife Butcher Knife
7
1075 carbon steel
Walnut
5.3
12
N/A
El Salvador
$38
Benchmade Meatcrafter
6.08
CPM S45VN stainless
Carbon fiber
4.52
11.06
Black and orange polymer
USA
$400
Knives of Alaska (KoA) Professional Boning Knives
5
D2 tool steel
Hard rubber
4.2
9.625
Black Kydex
USA
$50
Best Dedicated Boning Knife: Knives of Alaska Professional Boning Knife
The two versions flexible and semi-flexible-of the Knives of Alaska boning knife come in what the author calls a choice size and profile for medium-duty processing.
Pros
Designed For The Job
Ergonomic Handle
Great Value for Performance
Cons
Limited Versatility
KNIVES OF ALASKA PROFESSIONAL BONING KNIFE BLADE LENGTH: 5″ BLADE MATERIAL: D2 tool steel HANDLE MATERIAL: Hard rubber SPECIAL FEATURES: Available in two different flexes: flexible and semi-flexible WEIGHT: 4.2 ozs. OVERALL LENGTH: 9.625″ SHEATH: Black Kydex COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $49.99
The KoA knives ship with polymer sheaths.
The Knives of Alaska (KoA) Professional Boning Knives—I tested both flexibility models—are exactly as their name implies. They are a bit more of an investment at about $50 each. They are however, inexpensive enough that they can be easily replaced if broken or lost in the field. These are truer dedicated boning knives and display a curved, upward-swept profile that forces the whole edge into use. The handle angle promotes a full grip while working on both meat on the bone and on a flat prep surface such as a cutting board.
These knives are superior to the first two reviewed in this story. They have an extremely fine point that gets into the bone and allows you to clean off nearly every meat bit. For the price, they are eminently functional and require minimal maintenance. They are my choice out of the bunch. They are an exact fit for their role, while not pretending to be something else. I like that the KoAs felt the closest to what I had in the butcher shop all those years ago.
“The KoA knives performed the best for the dollar in boning tasks,” the author assessed. “They are shaped properly for butchering tasks and don’t fatigue the hand thanks to the blade angle.”
KoA
$69
DLT
$70
Kitchen Functional Boning Knife: Ontario 72-6
Above: The Ontario 72-6 appears as it arrived at the author’s. “It is a good cutter and excellent for breaking down large sections of meat.”
Pros
Affordable
Durable Edge
Effective Breaking Down Large Cuts
Cons
Corrosion-Prone Steel
Unsealed Handle
ONTARIO OLD HICKORY 72-6 BONING KNIFE BLADE LENGTH: 6.25″ BLADE MATERIAL: 1095 spring HANDLE MATERIAL: Hardwood SPECIAL FEATURES: Inexpensive and available in bulk quantities for rants and kitchens WEIGHT: 4.8 ozs. OVERALL LENGTH: 10.75″ COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $14.99
Boning knives are a relatively distinctive category in that they span the range from essentially disposable to extremely high-end, yet are intended for the same purpose. Looking at the four in this article, the least expensive is the Ontario 72-6, which is available in bulk quantities and can be had for as little as $8. It is a good cutter, and excellent for breaking down large meat sections. The straight edge is less ideal for getting into ridges in the shoulder bone, but it is serviceable. In the case of this knife, the steel is very prone to corrosion and the handle is likewise unsealed or treated. To fight the corrosion, wash and dry the knife thoroughly after each use. Apply a light coat of oil on the blade on occasion as well.
“The Ontario has a mostly straight edge and handle, making it hard to work with in organic curves or between bones,” the author stated. “It is a good slicer, but beware of your grip as there is nothing to stop your hand from sliding onto the blade.”
The ‘Old Hickory’ lettering on the handle came off after I washed the knife, and the steel began to spot immediately. This knife has a somewhat textured blade and is not smooth and even. Fat and blood can easily build up on the blade flats. That said, the edge out of the package was sharp, if not a little obtuse in terms of geometry. Despite my best efforts to dull it in use, it stayed sharp and functional. It has no guard or projection and is similar to a puukko in terms of the care that must be taken to not allow the hand to slip up and onto the blade. My impression of this blade is that it is a functional but essentially disposable kitchen tool.
OKC
$18
Optics Planet
$22
General Use Boning Knife: Condor Tool & Knife Butcher Knife
The curved belly of the Condor Butcher Knife’s bowie blade pattern does most of the cutting work.
Pros
Sharp And Durable Edge
Effective For Large Cuts
Durable Construction
Cons
Handle Logo Fouls
Uneven Edge Usage
CONDOR TOOL G KNIFE BUTCHER KNIFE BLADE LENGTH: 7″ BLADEMATERIAL: 1075 carbon steel HANDLE MATERIAL: Walnut SPECIAL FEATURES: Thin, light and practical for kitchen tasks WEIGHT: 5.3 ozs. OVERALL LENGTH: 12″ COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: El Salvador MSRP: $37.78
The Condor Tool & Knife Butcher Knife has a similar handle to the 72-6, but the blade is longer and wider. The edge out of the box was sharp and held up. An immediate point of concern for sanitary purposes is the deeply cut logo in the grip. The logo is somewhat uneven and large and is a collection point for fat and blood. It also digs into the fingers a bit when cutting, something that is not a major comfort issue, just a moderate annoyance.
As the author noted, the Condor Butcher Knife struggles from the same straight-edge problems as the 72-6—it is a better general-purpose kitchen knife than a boning knife, but can be a jack-of-all-trades.
The blade is oddly shaped for use as a boning tool. The bowie-style point is hard to use in tight spaces and doesn’t allow for the “scoop motion” when getting meat out of valleys in the bones. Where it does well is in breaking down large sections of meat on the table. The blade shape puts virtually all the pressure on the belly near the tip; the rear edge nearest the handle is seldom used due to the blade’s inability to get close to the cutting board for slicing strips. Once the belly of the blade gets dulled, its ability to cut and slice dramatically decreases and it needs to be sharpened. I’d rate this as a functional general-use knife for the kitchen, but its utility as a boning knife is questionable.
Condor
$40
Amazon
$34
Scalpel Sharp Boning Knife: Benchmade Meatcrafter
The Benchmade Meatcrafter is scalpel sharp and razor thin. The orange coating allows for visibility in the field.
Pros
Exceptional Sharpness
Premium Craftsmanship
High-Visibility Design
Cons
High Price
BENCHMADE MEATCRAFTER BLADE LENGTH: 6.08″ STEEL: CPM S45VN stainless FINISH: Cerakote™ coating HANDLE MATERIAL: Carbon fiber SPECIAL FEATURES: Ergonomic and extremely sharp WEIGHT: 4.52 ozs. OVERALL LENGTH: 11.06″ SHEATH: Black and orange polymer COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA MSRP: $400
The Benchmade Meatcrafter* in this story is the first production version of this particular model from the company, literally the first of its kind off the line. It is a high-end knife eight times the price of each of the Knives of Alaska models tested. Benchmade’s quality is evident and this status symbol is not a “safe queen.” It is one of the sharpest—if not the sharpest—knives I have ever seen from the factory. I was actually taken aback when it went through a huge deer ham with no effort. It is scalpel sharp and held that level of sharpness the entire test. I for one was not used to a knife this sharp. I had to retrain my hand to use less force in cuts because it was risky.
This is a knife I would proudly use and display, but even with its orange blade (for higher visibility). I would be very cautious in its use for fear of breaking it. This is one that I know I’d fear losing at the cost alone. Things happen in the field, and I’ve lost a lot of gear. The reality is I’d rather break or lose a $50 knife than something like this.
