Page 121 – BLADE Magazine

Custom-Made Chef Knife: The Kitchen Integral

Knifemaking

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January 12, 2022

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Custom-Made Chef Knife: The Kitchen Integral

One-piece custom-made chef’s knives embody strength, balance, line and flow and more

By Mike Haskew

As it does in other aspects of custom knives, integral construction, with blade bolster, tang and pommel forged from a single piece of steel, has its application in the kitchen. The high-performance chef ’s knives that result from such a construction provide an excellent opportunity for skilled knifemakers to showcase their abilities. Function is always at the forefront. After all, First and foremost, all knives must cut. So, chopping, slicing and dicing ability, comfort in the user’s hand, edge-holding properties, and easy maintenance and upkeep are prerequisites. To step it up, consider chef ’s knives that blend the basics in their efforts to raise the game. Good looks are indeed a bonus, and the featured models deliver with delicious damascus, tantalizing handles and overall presentation that will keep you in the kitchen just for the sheer pleasure of manipulating them.

FORM & FUNCTION TO CONSIDER FOR CUSTOM CHEF KNIVES

When Gabe Mabry of Norwood, North Carolina, cooked up a kitchen stunner with a 300-layer ladder-pattern damascus blade forged in partnership with Steve Grosvenor, he took the principles of form and function to heart.

“There’s something about an integral chef ’s knife,” he said. “Forging it connects bladesmiths to their forebears. With all the modern technology, there’s only one way I can think of to manufacture an integral chef ’s knife—and that’s to forge it to shape. A well-executed integral will have impeccable balance and design flow that seems intuitive. Conversely, much toil went into the shape.”

Mabry’s piece was constructed for a specific client order. The damascus is forged from a combination of 80CrV2, 52100 and CruForge V carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. e handle of ancient walrus ivory is tapered with a slight curve and accented with the owner’s initial in the butt.

“The construction of an integral is a labor of love,” Gabe commented. “However, all the work and care of setting up the bolster makes the handle assembly simpler to a degree, with the inclusion of up to an inch of metal in the bolster. is inch of material can be subtracted from the handle material, increasing the options in handle materials. Integral knife construction adds multiple steps and a degree of difficulty as well.”

While the fundamentals of any good working knife must be incorporated into the integral, the construction itself doesn’t apparently add or detract from the user’s experience. Balance, edge, comfort and dexterity, durability and cleanup still matter. And the last attribute is perhaps one where an integral has an advantage.

Above: A stacked billet is ready for more forging in Gabe Mabry’s shop. (Gabe Mabry image)

“An integral knife has its benefits,” offered Charlie Ellis of Eagle Crest Forge in Asheville, North Carolina. “And when done well it is very strong, with a minimal number of joints to become problems with material movement or becoming a possible breeding ground for bacteria. Also, it minimizes potential issues with wood movement. Having the joint positioned where there is the least chance of movement and using stable material is a wise choice.”

The HEXAGRAL CUSTOM MADE CHEF KNIFE

Ellis created a beautiful integral chef’s knife with a 10-inch damascus blade of 1095 spring and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels in a radial laddered W’s pattern, and an “S” grind for less resistance in the cut and better food release. The handle is African blackwood with silicon bronze and G-10 fittings. “It’s big but light for its size and balanced perfectly for a pinch grip,” Ellis explained.

The knife is fashioned in a distinctive style Charlie calls the hexagral. “I call this design the hexagral as a nod to my friend [and ABS master smith] Haley DesRosiers, who makes octagonal-shaped integrals she calls octagrals. With the hexagral, the integral bolster is shaped in a hexagon, both in cross-section and, quite challengingly so, on the faces.

“Compared to typical hidden-tang construction that is limited by the spine thickness, an integral can have a truly robust tang. Also, with this knife, the tang runs through to be bolted and capped on the end so that if for some reason the ep- oxy failed, there is a mechanical connection keeping it tight.

“So,” he continued, “while there are some practical bonuses to an integral, I would have to say that what draws me to them, and why I choose to make them the most, is their artistic potential. Seeing the pattern condensed in the bolster and then flowing out into the blade is always one of my favorite parts. Between that and the sculptural aspect of the transition between the blade and handle, there are so many interesting possibilities. I al- ways get excited with each new integral I create.”

Brent Stubblefield of Join or Die Knives in Richmond, Virginia, finds the challenge of integral construction one of the most appealing aspects of the undertaking. “Integral-construction chef’s knives are special because the production meth- od cannot be counterfeited,” he reasoned. “Standard stock removal processes can- not be used to make them, and machining processes, while an art unto themselves, cannot produce the flowing patterns that a forged damascus blade can.”

Brent Stubblefield’s chef’s knife features an “S” grind with hollow ground “cheeks,” while the cutting edge is flat ground up to about one-half inch above the edge to assist in food release. Depending on the pattern, Brent’s price for a similar knife ranges from $850 to $1,500. (Caleb Royer image)

For Stubblefield, the integral’s functional advantage lies in the flow of the handle, its uniqueness and strength rather than any perceived upgrade in edge performance. Integral construction, he says, should provide a blank canvas for the maker to use any shape or geometry desired. In this case, the style does not inherently improve edge geometry but al- lows for infinite possibilities.

“Larger stock must be used for integral construction,” he explained. “I usually use at least 1-inch round stock and, when making damascus, I leave the stock at 1 inch by 2 inches, plus the desired length. There must be enough thickness to leave material for the bolster and tang as well as drawing them out, and there must be enough blade material to draw the heel back toward the handle. In considering integral. hidden-tang-with-guard and full-tang knives, each has its pros and cons Quality material plus excellent fit and finish bring those differences down to the level of nuance. The standout advantage of the integral is the strength of the seamless connection of blade and bolster.”

“A WELL-EXECUTED INTEGRAL WILL HAVE IMPECCABLE BALANCE AND DESIGN FLOW THAT SEEMS INTUITIVE.” -GABE MABRY

Brent’s chef’s knife has an 80-layer ladder pattern damascus blade forged from 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. The blade features an “S grind with hollow ground cheeks while the cutting edge is flat ground up to about one-half inch above the edge to assist in food release. The Virginia maple burl handle is fashioned in the style of French Sabatier chef’s knives with extra wood at the end to help balance the longer blade. A G-l10 spacer provides a subtle accent.

“Integral knives have fewer seams when built in a hidden- tang fashion, he added. “There are no inside corners where handle or bolster material terminates. So, the integral may be easier to keep clean and free of food particles. Although we do our best to seal our handle material to the tang with epoxy, there is always a possibility of liquid intrusion, So, the more seams around the tang, the more chances of infiltration. I’m building knives with the intention for multiple lifetimes of use, so I prefer any advantage for longevity.”

ADDED STEEL MASS

Jason Ellard of Coningham, Tasmania Australia, built a mosaic integral chef’s knife with an 8.86-inch blade of feathered damascus in 1084 and 1SN20 steels, spalted sassafras burl handle with a domed pin and twist damascus inlay, and an accompanying sheath in frame construction and nickel-silver and twist damascus to match the spacer. Overall length: 14.76 inches.

Jason Ellard’s mosaic integral chef’s knife boasts an 8.86-inch blade of feathered damascus in 1084 and 15N20 steels. Overall length: 14.76 inches. Jason’s price for a similar custom made chef knife: $7,000. (SharpByCoop image)

“The forward angle of the bolster- blade transition allows for easier stone sharpening,” remarked Jason. “Handle spacers are made from nickel-silver and twist damascus with broken edges for a nice feel. The handle also has proven edges, which help with stopping a hard ridge at the transition if the wood ever swells or shrinks. I carved out a recess to allow the bolster to fit inside the sheath, and the stand is ringed gidgee with damascus pegs raising the back portion and a nickel-silver plate under the front section. The sheath pin has a twist damascus inlay and its own designated holder on the stand. Lastly, I created a mosaic damascus logo plate pinned onto the base of the stand.”

Ellard approaches integral construction with a full understanding of its difficulty. “It takes a lot of skill in every aspect of creating it,” he observed, “and even more so to do it well. The forging, grinding, symmetry, handle fitting, and hand finishing are all a lot more difficult to do than other constructions, and it’s a major staple of a skilled maker to do this with a high level of quality. I person- ally just enjoy making integral knives a lot more. I find it more pleasing to the eye, and I enjoy the added challenges in creating them, allowing me to show what my skills are capable of.”

The stand for Jason El- lard’s chef’s knife is ringed gidgee with damascus pegs raising the back portion and a nickel-silver plate under the front section. The sheath pin has a twist damascus inlay and its own designated holder on the stand. Jason created a mosaic damascus logo plate pinned onto the base of the stand. (SharpbyCoop Image)

According to Jason, the added steel mass of the integral will always make the knife more solid and heavier than other types. Performance is a key attribute, though other kitchen knives are comparable in many ways. “The performance shouldn’t be affected negatively or positively as long as the knife is made correctly,” he noted. “The lack of a hard 90-degree at the ricasso in a hidden-tang knife can make cleaning a lot more difficult. It also makes it easier for debris or moisture to get into the handle. With the integral construction moving the seam further back, it takes these issues away very well. I’ve also found it easier to get a tight fit against an integral bolster than a hidden- tang ricasso.”

Integral construction in a chef’s knife adds another dimension to the artistry that is custom knifemaking. In fact, an appreciation of the skill and execution of the integral may actually push the chef to new heights of culinary creation.

Best Hunting Knife: Four Fab Factory Fixed Blades

Featured

Dexter Ewing

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January 10, 2022

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Best Hunting Knife: Four Fab Factory Fixed Blades

Planning for a backwoods excursion? Here are four of the best hunting knife options, the fixed blade variety, presently rolling off factory lines.

As the fall outdoor season approaches, it’s important to assess your gear and decide if you need to purchase new equipment—hunting knives included. It’s time to maintain what you have or buy brand new models that will assist in camp chores and/or dressing game.

Fixed-blade hunters play an important role on the hunt as they do a lot more than just field dress. They also help prepare meals, prep firewood for cooking, and any other cutting chores that crop up.

Ontario Knife Co ADK Keene Valley Hunter

An example of one of the latest such edged tools is the ADK Keene Valley Hunter from Ontario Knife Co. The wide drop-point blade of 420HC stainless steel adapts to cutting or camp tasks easily. It offers plenty of belly to do the aforementioned chores and field dressing, too. Full-tang construction provide plenty of strength and balance. Interesting multicolor Micarta® scales supply a great grip in all weather conditions, and are highly resistant to cracking, chipping and peeling. The material’s highly stable nature and purchase qualities make it a favorite among users. The scales are tapered from the handle spine, allowing the knife to rest in your hand comfortably. The integral single guard and distinctive choil work in harmony to enable you to choke up on the handle for ever-greater cutting control and user confidence.

The deep-bellied blade of the Ontario ADK Keene Valley Hunter slices large cutting jobs down to size. ADK is short for the Adirondack Mountains, a range in Ontario’s home state of New York. — The best hunting knife? The deep-bellied blade of the Ontario ADK Keene Valley Hunter makes a case for it. It easily slices large cutting jobs down to size. ADK is short for the Adirondack Mountains, a range in Ontario’s home state of New York.

While 420HC is not my blade material of choice on such a knife, it has a good combination of both edge holding and ease of sharpening. Rounding out the package is a nicely sewn and riveted leather sheath that sports button-snap retention to hold the knife. Sheaths are often an area some manufacturers cut corners on to save money and hit the targeted price point, but not the ADK Keene Valley. The sheath is very nice in quality and holds the knife quite securely.

The handle feels a bit blocky but there are no crisp edges or anything to create hot spots. Micarta is one of my favorite handle materials due to its strength, light weight and color selection. It also has a nice grip-you-back quality. At 11.2 ounces the knife has a noticeable heft. The blade at its thickest is around .2 inch, which also contributes to the heavier weight but also plenty of thickness to withstand tough, unforgiving use. The flat grind thins it out nicely yet remains thick enough for strength. With its wide blade and generous belly, the knife slices really well—one of the traits to look for in a hunter.

Kizlyar Supreme Caspian

Ten inches overall, the Kizlyar Supreme Caspian features a hollow-ground blade of D2 tool steel and a handle of hornbeam wood. The classic clip-point-bowie blade never gets old and has a defined tip along with a prominent swedge. The bowie shape does equally well in the tactical and outdoor genres, a great overall pattern for both a tool and weapon. The hollow grind thins out the edge and gives the blade an extremely good bite. D2 has respectable edge-holding ability and is widely used in the production knife industry as an upgrade to lower-grade steels. It is well known for toughness and high impact resistance, which makes it an ideal inexpensive steel for outdoor knives.

The ergonomic handle features multiple finger recesses, and the butt turns down to form a pinky catch to prevent your hand from sliding rearward. The tang helps form an integral single guard, resulting in a comfortable, smart, secure handle design. Largely flat, the scales are secured via two hex-head screws. The handle edges are contoured for comfort.

The leather sheath is a riveted, sewn fold-over design. As a nice visual touch, contrasting thread is used for the stitching. The belt loop is a dangler type, allowing the hunting knife to ride a bit lower when affixed to the belt, as well as promoting greater freedom of movement to accommodate you in a seated position. Not every fixed blade has this sheath design and it is a plus in my book. To top things off, the sheath is stamped with the Kizlyar Supreme logo and website address.

The knife performs very well. It has the power to slice through various media with ease. It’s somewhat large for a hunter but does multiple cutting jobs, including camp chores and some food processing. The hornbeam scales are not stabilized so extra care might be required, such as but not limited to drying off the handle immediately after you wash the knife.

Spyderco Bow River

The FB46G Bow River is one of Spyderco‘s latest fixed blades. The design by custom knifemaker Phil Wilson is based on his experience as an avid hunter and fisherman. Spyderco has produced several of Wilson’s fixed-blade designs but those were always higher-end knives in terms of materials and price—until now.

The Bow River is designed for the budget-minded outdoor enthusiast who demands performance and superior design in an edged field companion. Starting with the blade, 8Cr13MoV stainless steel is used for a good balance of edge holding and ease of resharpening in the field. The 4.36-inch blade is big enough to tackle most hunting chores but small enough to easily manipulate, as well as carry comfortably in a belt sheath. Wilson selected a trailing point blade design due to its generous sweeping belly that tackles slicing chores with ease. The full flat grind and distal taper enable the blade to sail through media easily.

The handle is rounded, contoured black-and-gray G-10. The alternating colored layers form a wood-grain-type pattern that is very eye-catching. The hunting knife rests in your hand comfortably and has no hot spots or crisp edges. The way the end of the handle is rounded off tucks into your palm snugly. Some with larger hands might find the handle a bit lacking but for me it’s just right. The surface finish is slick and devoid of texturing, though with the way the handle is shaped you can always get a secure hold no matter what. There is a large hole in the butt for a lanyard. The leather sheath is a sewn and riveted fold-over design with belt loop. It’s simple and executed very well, just like the Bow River. The knife fits inside the sheath well.

As for performance, it is definitely one efficient cutting tool. It is a well-designed fixed blade regardless of price. It is tailored for fine precision work such as field dressing and camp food prep. It would make a great kitchen knife as well.

Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter

The Case Winkler Kyle Lamb Hunter salutes the design expertise of Daniel Winkler and military service of retired U.S. Army Sergeant Kyle Lamb. The 5-inch spear-point blade’s saber grind leaves enough material for strength—the full .195-inch thickness runs to the tip—but removes enough to thin the blade out for effective cutting. The choil and pronounced thumb rest help exert extra control when choking up on the blade. The 80CrV2 carbon steel is extremely tough and sharpens easily.

The black canvas Micarta® handle offers a great grip in most all weather conditions. It is rounded for comfort and has no hot spots. Two thong-tube pins secure the slabs, and there’s an extra-large oblong hole in the butt for a lanyard.

The hunting knife is a substantial tool. It has a good heft that conveys a solid feel and instills user confidence. It is equally at home as a tactical or outdoor knife because it has the features of both: great user blade shape, ergonomic handle and superior-grade materials. The blade is scary sharp out of the box. It dispatches large cutting jobs easily and quickly. Because the handle accommodates most hands very well, you can easily bear down and power through media. And when finesse is needed, you can choke up on the choil and thumb rest. The spear-point blade adapts to a wide range of tasks.

One word of note: some might find the gimping on the thumb rest and choil a bit harsh. It does bite into flesh just a bit but that can be a good thing, especially when your hands are wet, covered in animal blood or freezing. The gimping also works well if you wear gloves. They do a great job of biting into the glove material to keep the knife positioned in your grip.

The Kydex sheath is top-notch. Instead of a typical fold-over design it is a riveted one that incorporates a phenolic spacer material. The interior is lined with a felt-type material to reduce clatter. The exterior sports a laser cutout of Lamb’s Viking Tactics logo, a very nice touch. On the reverse side is a heavy-duty metal clip that affixes the hunting knife to belts up to 2 inches wide. The knife fits firmly inside the sheath with absolutely no play and no fear of falling out whatsoever.

More Hunting And Bushcraft Knife Info:

Unzip ‘Em: Best Gut Hook Hunting Knives
What Makes a Bushcraft Knife a Bushcraft Knife?
Four Battle Tough Military-Style Fixed Blade Knives
We Review 4 Drop Point Knives Priced $74-$450

3 Things to Do if You’re Arrested for a (Possible) Knife Crime

Evan Nappen

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January 1, 2022

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3 Things to Do if You’re Arrested for a (Possible) Knife Crime

You’re innocent until proven guilty, but don’t expect any special treatment for you or your knives.

The following in an excerpt from Knife Laws of the U.S.

You have NO need to read this article because it could never happen to you. Right? This article must have been written for knife-wielding thugs or street gang members. Right? Why would law enforcement authorities ever come after you? Right?

WRONG! Merely because you possess or carry a knife, knife law enforcers may try to justify their existence by turning you into an accused “law-abiding” criminal. Even though you are a careful, honest knife owner, with no intent to do any harm, and would never knowingly break the law, this can easily happen to you. I have plenty of criminal case files of examples of innocent, unsuspecting, law-abiding folks having to fight their way through the justice system to “prove their innocence.”

#1: Remain Silent

The Fifth Amendment protection against self-incrimination, also known as the “Right to Remain Silent,” is one of the most important Constitutional protections Americans have, that many other countries do not grant.

Yet, naive people in the United States routinely ignore Fifth Amendment protections and bury themselves with “explanations.” When it comes to a criminal violation, most law-abiding citizens are ignorant about the details of the law and its many loopholes and defenses. By opening their mouths, they remove all doubt about their ignorance and usually give the state something not just to use against them, but to twist against them.

#2: Ask for your Attorney

The Sixth Amendment guarantees an individual’s right to an attorney. By asking for your/an attorney and remaining silent, honest knife owners provide themselves with a fundamental foundation for a strong legal defense. Defense attorneys smile when they learn their clients stood firm on their rights.

Say, “I want my attorney.” If you do not already have an attorney, say, “I want an attorney.” Requesting an attorney does much more than simply getting legal counsel. Simply requesting an attorney causes a wall of Constitutional protection to spring up around you.

#3: Do Not Consent to Waiving Any Rights

A right given up is a right lost. Do not consent to a search without a warrant. Do not sign any documents or statements without an attorney’s advice. All citizens have a Fourth Amendment right to a warrant being issued before their person or premises are searched.

There are exceptions to the necessity for a warrant, and there is a large body of law that exists as to when law enforcement officers have justification or probable cause for a warrantless search. However, whether an exception for the warrantless search exists or not, you should never consent to a warrantless search.

Knifemaking: How to Make Temper Lines

Knifemaking

Wally Hayes

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December 29, 2021

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Temper lines—aka hamons—are a very exciting part of knifemaking, and I would like to share with you how I produce cool temper lines on folders. -Wally Hayes

The latest folder exhibiting a handsome temper line—aka a hamon—by the author (inset) is this skull-encrusted model. (SharpByCoop knife image)

STEEL and CLAY

First you need to select your type of steel. You can use 1084 carbon steel or high-carbon damascus, but I prefer W2 tool steel. I get mine from New Jersey Steel Baron because I can get it surface ground to whatever thickness I need.

The W2 is low in manganese, enabling you to create wild temper lines. I grind the blade leaving the edge about the thickness of a dime. The thickness helps prevent your blade from warping in the quench and also helps hold the heat, giving you time to get the blade into the quenching oil.

The clay I use is a stove furnace cement used to repair fireplaces and chimneys. I get mine at the hardware store and it comes in a small tub or a tube like the tubes of silicone used with a squeeze gun for calking.

APPLYING the CLAY

To apply the clay I use a sharpened Popsicle® stick, being careful not to put any clay where the ball bearing in the liner will travel on the tang of the blade. Also, do not put any clay near the pivot hole as you want that area to become fully hard when quenched.

I like a very exaggerated temper line with big waves. You can achieve this by placing short lines of clay every half inch down the blade. Do not carry the clay line all the way to the edge as you want the edge fully hard.

1) The author likes very exaggerated temper lines with big waves. You can achieve this by placing short lines of clay every half inch down the blade.

I put the clay on the blade about an eighth of an inch thick. This seems to work very well. Let the clay dry for about four hours before you heat treat it. To heat treat the blade I use a propane forge. I place a coat hanger through the pivot hole and twist it around the tang of the folder to give me something to hold onto.

HEAT and QUENCH

Gently heat the blade near the opening of the forge for a minute before placing it into the forge edge up. Watch the blade come up to temperature, placing the tang near the hottest part of your fire. The tang is the thickest area of the blade and slowest part to get up to critical temperature. Heat the blade until a magnet does not stick to it. I use a cow magnet on the end of a pipe and keep testing the blade as it heats up to temperature.

When a magnet does not stick to high carbon steel the steel is at critical temperature, at which point the blade should be removed from the forge and quenched in oil. For steel, I use a fast-quench oil such as the kind from Parker or Fensoil. I have also done many successful quenches in vegetable oil.

2) Here is the blade after quenching. The author uses a fast-quench oil such as the kind from Parker or Fensoil. He also has done many successful quenches in vegetable oil.

I quench the blade and then leave it submerged for two minutes before removing it. Once its out, I clean the blade with a paper towel. I then put the blade in the toaster oven for one hour at 385°F.

WARP CHECK, GRIND and POLISH

After the blade is cool I check it for straightness on a flat piece of steel. I use a set of parallels for this. If the blade is warped, I clamp it to a slightly curved piece of thick steel, and press the warp out with the twist clamp. Then I place the clamped blade in the toaster oven for another hour’s worth of temper at 350°F. This works really well and is less stressful to the blade when compared to trying to straighten it another way.

3) The red marks served as guides for the finish-ground blade.

Once the blade is straight it is time to finish grind and polish it up to 2,000 grit. I do the final polishing by hand to ensure every scratch has been removed. After this I sharpen the edge and make sure it is also polished carefully. Finally, I use sand paper backed up by a thick piece of leather and sand very slowly so I don’t cut myself.

The ETCH

Next up: Etch the blade to bring out the temper line. Clean the blade with acetone. Wear latex gloves to protect your hands and to keep oils from your hands off the clean blade. To etch the blade I use ferric chloride diluted four-to-one with distilled water—that is, four parts water to one part ferric chloride. Hang the blade with a cotton string tied through the pivot hole and place it in the acid for 15 seconds. Remove the blade from the acid and spray it with Windex®. This neutralizes the acid and stops the etching. Dry the blade and coat it with WD-40®. Rub a little bit of polishing compound onto the blade to remove some of the residue from the etching. I use Flitz or Peek polishing paste with a paper towel and some WD-40. Polish lightly and be very mindful of the sharp edge. Clean the blade with WD-40 and wipe off any excess oil.

4) Here is how the blade appears after polishing and etching. The temper line is now visible.

To get the temper line white, go over the blade lightly with a piece of 3,000-grit-or-higher sandpaper.

I hope this gives some insight into the fun world of temper lines and more people will experiment with this fun process.

Above: The blade of the author’s finished folder exhibits a temper line with big waves—just the way he likes it.

For more information contact Wally Hayes, 9960,9^th Concession, RR#1, Essex, ON, CanadaN8M-2X5 226-787-4289.

How to Do Plug Welds on Knives

Knifemaking

BLADE Staff

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December 27, 2021

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Plug Welds the David Lisch Way

The ABS Master Smith shows how he puts a plug weld in a damascus blade

On this and the following pages, I will show you how to do a plug weld. Firstly, this is not a new technique. That being said, I would like to think that the way I am using it here is new—or at least it is new to my knives. I’m not showing how I made the damascus pattern as it would take way too many photos. Perhaps I will show that in another story.

The Moon Fighter is one of two knives I have made in this style. The first one was the Sun Fighter. The Sun Fighter was the first time I made a knife using the plug weld technique. I took an order for a knife like the Sun Fighter. Since the resulting knife was slightly different, therefore I named it the Moon Fighter.

HOW DAVE DOES IT

In Photo 1, I am cutting an oval hole into a forged integral blade. I forged the blade from a billet of my Star Night Damascus (Photo 2). It is important that the hole be an oval shape so it will be round once it is forged (Photo 3).

1: The author cuts an oval hole into a forged integral blade.

2: He forged the blade from a billet of his Star Night Damascus.

3: It is important that the hole be an oval shape so it will be round once forged.

Blade thickness is just over 3/8 inch. This will give me room to forge the blade once I make the plug weld. Photo 4 shows the end of the moon billet. I will shape the square into the oval to the make the plug for the “moon.”

4: This is the square end of the moon billet to be shaped into the oval to make the plug for the “moon.”

5: The plug is ready for insertion into the hole.

In Photo 5 you can see that the plug is ready for insertion into the hole. It is close to the right size but just a bit big. I put a slight taper on the edge of the plug so it can “find” the hole. The plug is an eighth inch thicker than the blade. This will allow the plug to expand and weld into the blade.

Above Photos 6 and 7: The hammer is a blur as the author pounds the plug into the hole in the hot steel.

With any process there is a learning curve. I learned that to get a really tight fit with the plug, it works best to put a dull red heat on the blade. Place the tapered plug into place and hammer it into the dull red blade (Photos 6 and 7). In Photo 8 the plug is in place. It is 1/16 inch proud on both sides of the blade. Back into the fire to a dull red and add flux.

9: After the first weld, the moon is still visible.

10: The moon is still a bit cooler than the blade and is getting a bit bigger. Now is the time for some heat.

11: Back at the power hammer for some drawing down in thickness and adding length to the blade. It also makes the oval moon round and very hard to see.

In Photo 9 I have made the first weld. The moon is still visible. In Photo 10 the moon is still a bit cooler than the blade and is getting a bit bigger. Now is the time for some heat. Photo 11 shows work at the power hammer for some drawing down of thickness and adding length to the blade. It also makes the oval moon round and very hard to see.

12. The author forges the blade close to its final shape.

13: He draws out the tip, adding more length to the blade. The moon is very close to being round.

14: After a few final taps under the power hammer, the author will finish up the profile by hand.

In Photo 12 I am forging the blade close to its final shape. In Photo 13 I am drawing out the tip, adding more length to the blade. The moon is very close to being round. After a few final taps under the power hammer (Photo 14), I will finish tuning up the profile by hand.

NO SET FORMULA

I do not have a set formula for this process. It is by gut feeling. I can see how much the steel moves when I forge it. The first time I tried it I put a round hole into the blade and wound up with an oval, so it made sense to start with an oval hole if I wanted to wind up with a round one.

With the Sun Fighter the blade was 480-layer damascus and the “sun” was a very tight W’s-pattern damascus. Once I made the initial weld, the blade was still over 3/8-inch thick at that juncture. I ground in sunrays on both sides then forged up the rays and the sun to its round shape. On the Moon Fighter I wanted the backdrop to resemble shooting stars. This took some trial and error and a lot more time than I thought it would to get a pattern I liked.

The result of the plug weld made to resemble the moon is plainly evident in the center of the damascus blade of the Moon Fighter by ABS master smith David Lisch (inset). (SharpByCoop knife photo)

NO LIMIT

There is no limit to the cool new things that can be done with damascus. I have heard folks say it has all been done before. Well, I don’t believe it. I think new and exciting things are happening in little knife shops all over the world, and the only way to keep things moving forward is to try new stuff and share the new things with everyone we can.

Please feel free to try this process. There are so many different things that can be done with it. When you come up with something new, share it so we continue to advance the art of damascus and knifemaking. Or, buy a damascus knife from your favorite maker and watch for that sparkle in his eye as he thinks to himself, “Cool, now I get to make another knife.”

Marine Vet’s Knife Memorializes the Ultimate Sacrifice of His Iraq Comrades

BLADE Staff

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December 21, 2021

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Marine Vet’s Knife Memorializes the Ultimate Sacrifice of His Iraq Comrades

1 Knife for the Lima Company 11

BY MIKE HASKEW BLADE® FIELD EDITOR

*This article originally appeared in BLADE Magazine Winter 2013

The bond of brotherhood, sacrifice, and selflessness forged by fighting men in combat is, perhaps, the strongest emotion human beings can experience. So it is with Travis Williams.

Having just turned 18, Travis enlisted in the United States Marine Corps In December 2001. He reported for duty the following August and spent the next four years in the service. While he trained, his original reserve unit had already deployed to Iraq, and he was among a few who were reassigned to Lima Company, 3^rd Battalion, 25^th Marines, another reserve unit, headquartered in Columbus, Ohio.

Travis Williams (second from right, back row) stands proud with his squad mere weeks before the deadly IED strike. (photo courtesy of Travis Williams)

During its deployment to Iraq, Lima Company endured days of patrols in harm’s way, intense firefights, and the ever-present danger of IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices). With a strength of about 180 Marines, Lima Company lost 24 killed in action, and one in eight of its Marines received the Purple Heart for wounds received or death as a result of enemy action. By late 2005, Lima Company was the hardest hit unit of its size in the Marine Corps. Lima’s battalion lost 48 men killed in Iraq.

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AUG. 3, 2005

Considering the tedium and tension that encompassed his time in Iraq, a single day stands out in Travis’ memory. On Aug. 3, 2005, during a patrol near the town of Barwanah, 11 Marines from his squad were killed in a massive IED explosion.

“We were going to start at 0600,” Williams recalled. “We loaded our amtracs, big transport vehicles, and about five minutes before we stepped off, a call came down from higher. For some reason the platoon commander and I got pulled out of our vehicle with 1^st Squad and put in a vehicle ahead of theirs with Iraqi forces in it. We headed for town and weren’t going to take any roads in. It was about a month before we were to leave the country, and we had seen a lot of firefights and IEDs.”

After the patrol received word that the road was, in fact, clear, the catastrophic explosion erupted. “We hopped on the road, and right as we made the turn for town I was sitting down in the vehicle,” Travis continued. “Somebody has to stand up to provide security, and I saw the explosion in the glasses of the guy standing up in our vehicle.”

Williams still does not know why he and the platoon commander were ordered out of the vehicle that was hit. He was not injured. Fifteen men occupied the stricken amtrac, and he had known those Marines that were killed for more than a year. Among them was his best friend, Lance Corporal Aaron Reed of Chillicothe, Ohio.

Travis and Lance Corporal Timothy M. Bell Jr., 1983-2005, enjoy some downtime. Bell, 22, was killed by the IED. His awards include the Purple Heart, Navy and Marine Corps Achievement Medal with Combat “V” for valor, and the Combat Action Ribbon. (photo courtesy of Travis Williams)

When Lance Corporal Travis Williams returned home to Missoula, Montana, in August 2006, he brought with him the memories and the scars of his wartime experience. He worked as a private investigator for about five years, and then an opportunity that he could not pass up presented itself. Always fascinated and intrigued by knives, he met custom knifemaker James Behring, Jr.

“James moved to Missoula from Michigan in 2011, and he married my friend’s sister,” Travis said. “I would hang out at the shop and watch what he was doing, and finally he told me that he was looking to hire somebody. I jumped in from there, cutting out blades from bar stock, soldering guards and finishing handles and stuff like that—until I was able to make a knife.”

GOLD STAR FAMILIES

This past February, the Wall Street Journal featured Travis in an article observing the 10^th anniversary of the war in Iraq. “They wanted to know how I was doing,” he commented, “and there was a video with it and a guy followed me around the shop while we were making knives.”

A fellow Marine veteran saw the article and contacted Travis, telling him that a benefit was being organized for Gold Star Families in Ohio. These are the families of those who have lost a loved one in battle. “He asked me to make a knife for a silent auction, and the proceeds would go to support the work of an artist that was painting life-size portraits of the guys that were killed from the company,” said Williams. “It was on short notice because the event was going to be in three weeks. I cleared it with James and then contacted Roger ‘Mudbone’ Jones of Waverly, Ohio, to make sure he could make the sheath if I got the knife to him in time.”

Mudbone is an accomplished knife and sheathmaker in his own right. A friend of the Behring family who considers James Behring “like my own son,” Mudbone agreed to make the sheath. His relationship with Travis has grown as well, and he simply considers the former Marine a second son. In fact, it is Mudbone who brought this compelling story to the attention of BLADE®.

“Travis called and said he wanted to tell me about the knife and get some pointers on it and the sheath,” Mudbone remembered. “It knocked me out when he said this was for his friends, and particularly his best friend who had been killed. It turns out Aaron Reed was from my hometown, Chillicothe, Ohio. I had never met the boy, but I knew of his mother, who had been a teacher in a local school.”

Travis set to work under the watchful eye and guidance of Behring. The finished knife includes a 6-inch drop point blade of O-1 tool steel, a thick brass guard, and a stacked-leather-washer handle with a butt of whitetail crown stag. Inserted between the leather washers is a piece of the nametape, typically worked across the top of the uniform pocket, of each of the 11 Marines killed on Aug. 3, 2005. The letter “L” for Lima Company and “3/25” for 3^rd Battalion and 25^th Marine Regiment are hot stamped into the blade.

Made by Travis under the watchful eye of Jim Behring, the knife has a 6-inch blade of O1 tool steel, brass guard, and a stacked-leather-washer handle with a butt of whitetail crown stag. Between the leather washers is a piece of the nametape, typically worked across the top of the uniform pocket, of each of the 11 Marines killed on Aug. 3, 2005. The letter “L” for Lima Company and “3/25” for 3rd Battalion and 25th Marine Regiment are hot stamped into the blade. (photo courtesy of Mudbone Jones)

When the knife was complete, Mudbone set to work. With only a week to complete the task, he crafted a leather sheath with the iconic image of the rifle turned down into a boot and topped by a helmet. A dog tag hangs from the weapon. The word “LIMA” is also prominent.

“On the back of the sheath there are 11 four-pointed North Stars,” added Mudbone. “Craftsmen of earlier times stamped these on guns and knives so the owner could always find his way home. They finished the knife on a Saturday. I got it on Tuesday and dropped everything else to get the sheath done. Sometime around 3:30 or 4:30 a.m. the next Saturday, I pulled the last stitch and put the last wax on it.”

Above: Working from the drawing, Roger “Mudbone” Jones employed a Marine theme of helmet, weapon, dog tags and boots to make the knife’s leather sheath, including the Lima Company name. On the back of the sheath are 11 four-pointed North Stars,” added Mudbone. “Craftsmen of earlier times stamped these on guns and knives so the owner could always find his way home.” (photos courtesy of Mudbone Jones)

SOLD for $7,000

The knife sold for $7,000, but not during the silent auction. “Doc” Wentworth, a Navy corpsman who had been assigned to Lima Company, was determined to keep the Lima Knife with the portraits so beautifully painted by artist Anita Miller. The memorial event at the Ohio Statehouse in Columbus was moving and inspirational, and Wentworth succeeded through social media in raising small donations that bought the knife and will allow the memorial to remain together in its permanent home in the statehouse. An accompanying book, The Lima Company Memorial: A Remembrance of Spirit and Choice, has also been produced.

UNBREAKABLE TIE

Learning the art of knifemaking and continuing to work with James Behring has proven therapeutic for Travis, and he is pleased with his opportunity at Behring Made Knives. While continuing to work in the shop, he attends events that help other veterans adjust to life after active duty. At some point in the future, he may begin making more knives and even taking orders. For now, he is content to continue learning.

“I like where I am with James’ company,” Williams said. “I do everything from heat treating to finishing blades and handles, and have recently gotten into making Kydex. On some of our CNC knives I’m doing the blasting, coating and sharpening of the blades. James is sitting there watching me, and someday I would like to get to the point where I am making knives on my own.”

Today, Travis finds contentment with his work and sees the future with optimism. There will, however, always be that unbreakable tie to his fellow Marines. Meanwhile, with a little help from his friends, he has created a lasting tribute to his fallen comrades.

Travis and his best friend, Lance Corporal Aaron H. Reed, take five. Reed was among those killed by the IED. His awards include the Purple Heart and Combat Action Ribbon. He was 21. (photo courtesy of Travis Williams)

For more information contact Roger “Mudbone” Jones, Dept. BL12, 320 Prussia Rd., Waverly, OH 45690 740-739-4562 [email protected], or Travis Williams, c/o James Behring, Dept. BL12, POB 17317, Missoula, MT 59808 406-926-1193 (shop) [email protected], www.behringmade.com.

Offset Kitchen Knife Handles? We Test 3 of Them.

Featured Knives

Pat Covert

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December 20, 2021

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Offset Kitchen Knife Handles? We Test 3 of Them.

The offset handle may just save your skin during meal prep

Most will agree that offset handles on kitchen knives look just a bit funky, but have you ever pondered why the unusual “stepped design” is what it is? Actually, there’s a method to the madness and it’s really quite simple. It’s to save your knuckles from getting banged up while slicing. Little has been written about this unusual handle, so we thought it would be both fun and informative to give a handful of o set-handle kitchen knives a spin around the cutting board.

It should be noted that such cutters often are referred to as bread* or sandwich knives which, when you think about it, makes sense, since loaves of bread typically have largish, at bottoms that require getting the digits down low when cutting. Plus, like the majority of bread knives, most are serrated.

What’s an offset worth? In this case a half inch. At top is a Boker chef’s knife the author has used for years. The drop from handle to blade edge is .75 inch. On the Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife at bottom, the drop is 1.25 inches.

The test knives have full serrations and, interestingly, there is a slight bow to the blades as well. The slight curve enables you to rock the blade back and forth on all cutting to make sure the cut is complete, a trait common to most cleavers as well. Serrations are a double-edged sword, so to speak, in that they make it easy to saw through most media. The other edge of the sword is that they can be a nightmare to sharpen, a feat some prefer to job out to the factory or professionals. However, serrations work particularly well at food prep for many breads, meats and vegetables, which is why so many kitchen knives of all types have them. Note that the featured models are hidden-tang knives—all the better to keep unwanted fluids out of the nooks and crannies found on their full-tang counterparts.

KITCHEN CUTTERS 

The Boker blade is all business as there is no effort to etch the damascus, though the pattern is faintly visible.

The Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife is the high-priced spread, pun intended. It is a large bread knife but is extremely lightweight due to its very thin blade. The blunt-tipped pattern has full serrations, each approximately .25 inch long. According to a Boker spokesperson, the blade’s core is VG-10 stainless. The damascus pattern is forged of various stainless steels by Japan’s Takefu Special Steel, Ltd. The blade is all business as there is no effort to etch the damascus, though the pattern is faintly visible. The ovate handle is topped with a stainless steel bolster.

The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is the smallest of the test slicers. Billed as a “go-to knife for all food preparation chores,” its blade has fine .125-inch serrations along the edge. The CTS BD1N stainless blade steel is made by Carpenter Technology, a leader in the industry, and is considered much better than common culinary alloys. The handle is yellow polypropylene, a common synthetic found on many kitchen knives because it is dense and repels water. The Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is super lightweight.

The Blunt-Tip Z Cut is a smaller, handier version of the other two test knives.

The Victorinox 9-inch Offset Sandwich Knife is the largest and heaviest of the test bunch, edging out its Boker counterpart by a half inch and a half ounce. Victorinox has always been hush-hush about its proprietary steels but does indicate that the blade is stainless steel with a carbon content of .5 percent^. e blade has .25-inch serrations and the ample handle is a black synthetic. After its acclaimed Swiss Army knives, Victorinox is well known for the Forschner brand kitchen knives, which it has owned controlling stock in since 1981.

The Victorinox 9-inch O set Sandwich Knife is the largest and heaviest of the test bunch, edging out its Boker counterpart by a half inch and a half ounce.

TASTY TESTING

I tested the two large o set knives sideby-side as their specs were so similar, starting with a 4×7-inch loaf of Publix Tuscan Boule bread. Unlike run-of-the-mill white bread, Tuscan Boule has a very tough rind. Using the knives in sawing strokes, I took off quarter- to half-inch slices. Both knives performed admirably, giving me any grief only on the at base of the loaf due to its full 7-inch rind. Once I got used to rocking the blade on the final cut, this, too, made for quick business. My biggest takeaway, however, was that offset handles do indeed work! In fact, I didn’t come anywhere close to busting a knuckle. My knuckles tapped the cutting board top a few times, but nowhere near as badly had I been using a handle without the offset. Both the Boker and Victorinox were comfortable in the hand, with the latter having an edge due to its fat, curvaceous—not to mention slightly longer—handle, though you’d be fine with either knife.

The Boker Black Damascus Bread Knife takes off nice, clean slices of Tuscan Boule bread. The bread has a tough rind but the serrated blade made quick work of it.

Next I took the knives outside the Bread Zone, testing them on other foodstuffs such as corned beef and Cajun sausage. Both knives sliced extremely well. Indeed, you could make an entire sandwich using these knives—but would you want to? By doing so you’d dull your serrations faster, even if minutely. It may be better to stick to bread and let your other kitchen knives share the cutting chores.

The author took the Victorinox 9-inch Sandwich Knife out of the “Bread Zone” and used it to cut neat slices of corned beef. You may or may not wish to use your bread knife in this manner, but the option is there.

The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is a smaller, handier version of the two bigger models, mainly because you need not drag out a large cutting board to use it. It’s not going to slice its way through a large loaf like the Tuscan Boule, but it will whip its way through a smaller sub-style sandwich or your standard white bread lunch quickie. I also gave it a spin slicing tomatoes, portobello mushrooms and a 3-inch chub of summer sausage. The knife performed very well and is limited only by its size. The Blunt-Tip Z-Cut’s blade is scary sharp—not surprising since serrations have been in Spyderco’s wheelhouse for quite a while. Where’s also a plain-edge version of the knife available—the Pointed Z-Cut. These two make for good companion knives and the plain-edge version will cut down your use of the serrated one.

The Z-Cut proved to be a little powerhouse, taking slices off a chub of summer sausage with aplomb. The CTS BD1N stainless steel takes a sharp serrated factory edge—a Spyderco specialty.

The Spyderco Blunt-Tip Z-Cut is billed as a versatile knife for all sorts of food prep. The author sliced up some tomato and worked on a portobello mushroom cap. Note the precise slices.

CHOICES ABOUND

All of the test knives were wicked sharp. You might ask yourself, if the two large bread knives cut equally well, why pay such a higher price for the Boker? For the same reason some carry affordable Kershaw folders as their EDC and others spend much more on a Chris Reeve: choices abound in the culinary world, just as they do in the EDC realm.

*Editor’s note: Standard bread knives have conventional, straight handles.

^Medium carbon steel has a carbon content of approximately .3 to .59 percent. High carbon steel has a carbon content of approximately .6 to .99 percent.