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The Hamon: What, Where, Why and How

To those who appreciate the tempered steel of a Japanese sword, the hamon is visual evidence of the maker’s effort to produce the finest blade work. In the West, the hamon appears in much the same fashion on Western knives, a blending of culture and craft. Where East meets West on the steel blade, there is the hamon, the graceful temper line.

“From a practical point of view, the hamon is a visible indication of a differentially heat-treated blade,” explained knifemaker Stuart Branson. “In many cases, it’s advantageous to have a harder edge supported by a softer spine in a knife. In this way, you gain the benefits of the good edge retention afforded by the harder edge with the durability of the softer spine region of the blade. In the long and graceful form of the Japanese sword this might seem obvious, but the same is true for Western blades, particularly those hard-use knives or the very popular larger chopping knives.”

According to veteran maker Gary House, the aesthetic effect of the hamon is behind its surge in demand among Western collectors, clearly defining the transition zone between hard edge and soft back.

“The popularity of the hamon on non-Japanese blades today, I believe, is the visual effect of the temper line,” he commented. “The movement and variations of the hamon are very attractive and visually appealing compared to a straight temper line.”

More and more, discriminating knife customers are looking for the hamon on the blades of some of the best-known, iconic Western-style knives.

“‘You will put a little something in the blade, won’t you?’ is a common request these days,” commented Mike Craddock, who started making knives in the 1970s, took a 40-year hiatus, and has come back strong recently. “It doesn’t necessarily make the knife better, but it does look good. I consider it the spirit of the steel.”

Certainly, the hammered and heat-treated steel is expected to be sturdy. However, the quest for the hamon is a classic case of discovering what lies beneath.

“For me, it is the mystery of the hamon,” related bladesmith Erik Fritz. “What shape is it going to take? How much work is it going to entail to bring it out so it can be seen? I think what makes it so special is that each hamon is so different and unique.”

 

PRODUCING THE HAMON

The hamon is there, lying within the reach of the knifemaker who is willing to take the time to thoroughly rub the steel to enhance the elusive line. For some makers, that effort is standard procedure. To them, a blade without this unmistakable flair of the Orient just comes up short. A hamon on Western knives bridges cultures and demonstrates a willingness on the maker’s part to invest the time and energy required.

“Like many, I have always been enamored of the Japanese sword,” Branson said. “The hamon is integral to its design and construction, and although it isn’t necessary that it be brought out to that degree, polishing these swords has been elevated to an art.”

Branson says he attempts to achieve several goals in the production of the hamon. First, he wants to emulate the beauty of the Japanese blade. In the attempt, he learns to see the intricacies of the pattern, theory of design, and the dedication of the artists that have gone before him.

“Producing a hamon is not just adding clay to a blade and hoping for the best,” he reasoned. “It is understanding the steel being used, the temperatures and times needed to achieve your aim, and the amount and pattern of the clay to produce the hamon you are after, the delicate process of heating the blade properly before the quench and, in the case of water quenching Japanese-style blades, the terror and elation of a successful water quench—the violent transformation of the steel into two forms above and below the hamon line, and the resulting curvature induced. One can understand how the swordsmiths approached their craft with a religious reverence.”

 

WATER VS. OIL QUENCH

Producing the hamon involves a process of coating the blade with clay and then quenching it in either oil or water. The water quench is more rapid and therefore potentially more catastrophic should a crack or complete break occur.

“I use clay and white crushed stone,” House noted. “A paste of satanite also works well. The clay insulates the blade from heat and will be a thin layer as it comes down toward the edge of the blade.”

Most makers who frequently produce a hamon opt for such tool steels as W1 and W2, and carbon steels such as 1050, 1075, 1084 and 1095. “Simple carbon steels are conducive to the very fast quenching requirements of a clay-coated quench,” Fritz remarked. “This allows the insulating clay to retard the hardening of the coated areas of the blade. High-alloy steels that allow thorough hardening of the blade are not conducive to the creation of a very active hamon. What you get with the high-alloy steels is more of a straight line.

“With W2 I prefer the water quench,” Erik continued. “With 1084 and 1095 I use Parks 50 quenching oil. Any hamon requires an insulating layer of clay to be applied to the spine. The biggest difference in hamon activity is in the quenching medium, such as water or oil. In my experience and opinion, greater hamon activity is achieved through a water quench. If you are going the safe route and using oil, there is less chance of a catastrophic blade failure.”

Branson said he sees fundamental differences in the hamons produced and the effects of the water or oil quench on the steel itself. On Japanese-style blades, the water quench introduces sori, or curvature to the blade. As the water quenches the steel, the uncoated steel cools quickly while the coated spine retains heat, staying expanded longer and causing the blade to curve downward. As the spine cools, the hardened edge begins to curve upward.  Quenching oils are typically made for industrial use and to prevent deformation of the steel as much as possible. Consequently, the blade tends to curve downward and remain so.

When quenching a blade in water, Stuart added, “The hamon tends to be more cloudlike, more diffuse, and to my mind a little more mysterious and poetic. The oil hamon, however, is more literal, more willing to follow the clay pattern and is more defined on its boundaries. However, the ashi, the wispy lines that come off the main patterns, can be very delicate and defined. Control of this can make for a very exciting hamon.”

The investment of both materials and a significant amount of time impact the cost of a blade complete with a hamon. However, for the maker willing to commit the time and the potential buyer, a genuine value is readily apparent.

“You do have extra work in claying the blade,” Craddock said, “and then there are literally hours of hand rubbing to get the aesthetics right. The steel does what it wants to, but there is a process that you go through. The steel offers it if you are willing to go out and get it. To me, the time involved in the hamon, and about 90 percent of the steel blades I make have them, adds about 10 percent to the cost of the knife—but from the standpoint of hours it should probably be double.”

 

LANGUAGE OF THE BLADE

The hamon brings beauty and satisfaction to the maker and the buyer. Further, it is taking its place among the desired aesthetic effects of Western knives, proving that the world is indeed much smaller when the same language is spoken—in this case, the language of the blade.—BY MIKE HASKEW

What To Look For in a Hamon

 

Discriminating knife buyers looking for a quality hamon should bear a few things in mind. A hamon can be wavy, undulating or any number of shapes. Whatever the shape, it must be well formed, clear and unbroken. What’s more, according to Don Fogg, it must be possible to describe in an understandable manner using a traditional vocabulary.

Erik Fritz advises that a professionally done hamon will exhibit a sharp demarcation between the hard and soft areas. Watch out for a hamon line that dips too close to the cutting edge. Stuart Branson agrees that if the hamon comes close to or reaches the edge of the blade, then a section of the edge is not hardened properly. Levels of refinement in the hamon involve subjective preferences as they relate to clarity and detail.—BY MIKE HASKEW

 

 

How To Obtain a Hamon

 

For more on producing a hamon, see “How To Clay Temper and Obtain a Beautiful Hamon” by ABS master smith Don Fogg in the book, Spirit of the Sword. To order a copy call 1-855-278-0406 or visit www.shopblade.com and click on “Books & References.”

CAPTION FOR PICTURE AT TOP

For his stag “Ferncliff” model, Lin Rhea employs a wavy, cloud-like hamon on the 9-inch W2 tool steel blade. Overall length: 14 inches. (Chuck Ward photo)

 

For the latest knives, knife trends, knifemakers, what knives to buy and where, knife legislation, knifemaking instruction, and much more, subscribe to BLADE® Magazine, the World’s No. 1 Knife Publication.

EVENT NEWS: BLADE SHOW WEST HAS MOVED TO LONG BEACH

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BLADE Show, the world’s largest knife show, has announced a major venue upgrade for its BLADE Show West exhibition. The 2021 event will take place at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long Beach, California, on Friday and Saturday, Oct. 8-9.

After months of searching for the best possible location for BLADE Show West, the BLADE Show staff unanimously concluded that Long Beach is the place to be.

“Many exhibitors and attendees who joined us in Portland, Oregon, for the past two West shows suggested ways we could improve on the experience. We listened and started looking for alternative locations. The Long Beach area has so much going for it that this was an easy decision,” said Alicia Newton, BLADE Show director.

“Foremost in our decision is the fact that Long Beach is knife-friendly in ways that many of the other venues we considered are not. Management at the Long Beach Convention Center has been easy to work with and is genuinely excited about adding our event to their calendar. Exhibitors can expect great show traffic and hassle-free transactions.”  

Long Beach has all the amenities that show attendees and exhibitors value. It’s easy to navigate, there are plenty of hotel options, and a huge variety of dining and entertainment options can be found within walking distance of the convention center. Further, the size and layout of the convention center lends itself to expansion in future years.

Additional details, including lodging information, will be posted regularly at bladeshowwest.com during the coming weeks, so check back often.

To get a head start on planning your trip to the Long Beach area, visit longbeachcc.com/attendees.

The official BLADE Show West website is bladeshowwest.com.

Interested in exhibiting? Please email us at [email protected].

5 Myths About Knife Sharpening

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Knife sharpening is, on its surface, a simple thing. That hasn’t prevented a few myths from popping up, though. Here are five knife sharpening myths, busted.

Myth: You Need Expensive Knife Sharpening Tools

Fact: Quality knife sharpening stones, sticks, oils, and other gizmos can help quite a bit. However, you can’t buy your way to sharpening success. Technique is 90 percent of it. Humans have been sharpening knives without manufactured products for centuries. How did they do it? They knew how to work an edge.

Here are knife sharpening tips for the uninitiated. All you need are some junky practice knives, a sharpening stone, a Sharpie and some patience to get started.


Myth: Diamond-Infused Knife Sharpening Stones Last Forever

DMT knife sharpener
A DMT Diafold in action. 

Fact: Diamonds might be forever, but knife sharpeners are a different story. Here’s DMT with the answer:

For those that use stones on a daily basis and maintain them properly, the diamond will likely last for a few years. For those that use them less frequently, it’s likely the stone will last from ten to twenty years.

Still, you can’t beat the value of a $40 knife sharpener that gets the job done over several years.


Myth: Using a Sharpening Stone Dry Works Faster Than Using It Wet Because It Removes More Metal

Fact: Don’t confuse friction with progress. Adding a little water or oil to maximizes your effort with every stroke on a knife sharpening stone. Remember, knife sharpening isn’t necessarily about scraping metal away; it’s about refining or creating an edge. 

SharpeningSupplies.com ran a test exploring this exact knife sharpening myth. The results?

The results were clear. Use your stones wet. The stones used wet worked far better than the ones used dry.

That isn’t to say that every knife sharpening stone needs to be used wet. It’s more that this is not an either-or proposition. Some can be used dry, too, as Cutlery-Hall-of-Fame Member Dan Delavan demonstrates in this video. 

On that note, if you use water on a stone, always use water. If you use oil, always use oil. Oil and water don’t mix, and that goes for knife sharpening, too.


Myth: Electric Knife Sharpeners Can Sharpen Almost Any Knife

Portable electric knife sharpener
The Cordless Knife & Tool Sharpener from Smith’s Products features easily adjustable angle guides that hold the knife at the proper set angle for a consistent edge. (DMS Captures image)

Fact: Electric knife sharpeners can sharpen most knives, but that doesn’t mean that they should

Electric knife sharpeners have fixed angle positions. If your favorite knife’s edge is set at 20 degrees, and the electric knife sharpener is set at 15 or 30 degrees, you might need a new favorite knife. 

The type of grind is also left unconsidered with electric knife sharpeners. For example, a blade’s convex edge will be reset by a sharpener tuned to a flat grind.

Edges aren’t set by accident. They are tied to the purpose and performance of a knife.

Matching the knives you intend to sharpen to the features of an electric knife sharpener is important. So is learning how to use manual knife sharpeners!


Myth: Diamond Knife Sharpeners Aren’t Really Made Out Of Diamonds — That’s Just Marketing

Diamond knife sharpener tips

Fact: Diamond knife sharpeners use real diamonds.

On first glance, this knife sharpening myth seems to make sense. Walk into a jewelry store and you’ll see diamonds with four-figure price tags. A sporting goods store, on the other hand, offers diamond knife sharpeners for less than 100 bucks. Maybe you should’ve reconsidered financing that engagement ring.

Knife sharpening companies often use monocrystalline diamonds, which are not the same as jewelry-grade diamonds. Here’s DMT again with the explanation:

Monocrystalline diamonds are diamonds of high quality that are not fractured. These diamonds are uniformly sized. DMT® bonds these to a nickel backing to provide a long lasting very flat surface. The alternative is to use polycrystalline diamonds. These diamonds are fractured and will not wear as long as the higher quality monocrystalline.


Half Myth: When Sharpening, Use an Equal Number of Strokes on Each Side 

Fact: This one could cut either way. It’s right on the line of myth versus reality.

It’s generally accepted that an equal number of strokes on each side of the blade will result in an even edge. However, hands don’t work exactly the same way in both directions. As Delavan states in the video above, most people’s backhand stroke isn’t as sturdy, and that could result in an uneven edge.

The trick is to compensate with a few more strokes on that backhand. 


 

 

What Exactly is a Tactical Knife?

Tactical knife definition

What is a Tactical Knife?

  • Synthetic, grippy handles (usually)
  • Non-reflective blade coating (usually)
  • Designed for hard and/or quick use
  • Aesthetics invoke military purposes
  • Spyderco founder Sal Glesser once said, a tactical knife is any knife you have with you when you need a knife.
  • Some say custom knifemaker Bob Terzuola made the first tactical folding knife, while others say Ernest Emerson did.
  • Maybe it’s all a marketing gimmick!

A Brief History the Tactical Knife

The term “tactical knife” was coined in the mid-1990s to define a look with certain characteristics. Regarding fixed blades, the characteristics included a non-reflective blade coupled with either no guard or one of stainless steel. Some still use brass and others incorporate titanium for guards, while some use black zirconium. Currently, zirconium’s price deters both makers and collectors. If the price comes down you can expect to see more zirconium for guards. Handle materials should be synthetics, including but not limited to Micarta®, G-10 and carbon fiber. However, these three are far and away the most popular handle materials on today’s custom tactical fixed blades.

What is a tactical knife

Over the past century grip materials have evolved from wood, leather washers and even cast brass and aluminum to the current synthetics. In the mid ’90s, primarily Micarta was used. Linen, paper and rag Micarta were the staples of the day. G-10 then came along, offering more colors and configurations. Over the past five years carbon fiber has increasingly become a handle material of choice.

The non-reflective blade was accomplished through several methods, the most common being a belt satin finish. As the name implies the finish was applied simply by using a sanding belt. This gave the blade a good-looking surface that was not reflective.

Tactical knife example

Key Tactical Knife Feature: Non-Reflective Finish

Another method was sand blasting. While providing a non-reflective finish, this technique had a problem. The sand created micro pits in the steel. The pits held moisture, leading to blade rust. That led to replacing the sand with silicon glass beads that did not leave pits and produced a more even, flat-gray, non-reflective finish.

Tactical knife

Walter Brend and BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Chris Reeve were early proponents of techniques previously used on firearms to blacken their blades/knives.
Chris utilized a black Gun-Kote® finish early on, and Chris Reeve Knives still does today. Brend was asked to produce blades with a black finish and he used Parkerizing to do it. Both finishes were/are subject to scratches. The scratches were especially noticeable when the knife was combined with a Kydex sheath.

Today finishes such as those from Cerakote® and other specialty outfits can provide choices not only of color but also of surface designs for your blade.

Winkler tactical knife

See More Tactical Knives at BLADE Show West

The world’s biggest and best knife show, BLADE Show, is coming to Portland, Oregon, from Oct. 5 to 7, 2018.

Find show information and buy tickets here >>

Portland knife show

How to Sharpen a Serrated Knife

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How to sharpen a serrated knife
The broad cone of the GATCO Scepter 2.0 comes in handy when working on the wide serrations of the CRKT Fossil.

How to Sharpen a Serrated Knife: Quick Tips

  • Use a small sharpening rod
  • Lock the rod into a “gullet,” the groove of the serration
  • Work the rod with slow, smooth motions away from the knife, applying light pressure
  • Work the rod in one direction; don’t rub it back and forth
  • Don’t sharpen wider than the serration

Sharpening Rods are Musts for Sharpening Serrated Knives

No matter what edge style of knife you carry, it must be sharpened. In the case of serrated blades, you need specialized tools, called sharpening rods.

Some rods, like the ones you’ll typically find in a kitchen, are large. Those won’t be helpful for working with small serrations. You need to find a small rod that will lock into place inside the serration. Don’t worry about sizing, though. Most small sharpening rods are tapered so that you’ll have the right fit no matter what.

Practice Makes Perfect

Learning how to sharpen serrated knives is like any other technique—you need practice to get good at it. I recommend buying some cheap knives and practicing before you move on to your $200 Spyderco. Also, remember that not all diamond sharpeners are created equal. Diamonds are manufactured and certain diamonds are more durable than others—then again, that’s a topic for a different time.

Know Your Geometry

There are a couple of key points about geometry for learning how to sharpen a knife with serrations.

As with a plain edge, you are polishing a surface. In the case of serrated blades, there are two geometries to work.

One is the gullet. The gullet is the internal section that normally has a curved shape between the points of a serrated edge. Since sharp gullets are necessary, many people mistakenly focus too much on the gullets and not enough on the teeth of the pattern. The teeth do the initial entry into the material and begin the cut.

Hence, when sharpening serrated blades you not only polish the gullet of the serration but also re-point the teeth at the same time. Much like sharpening a saw, you reform the teeth and restore the geometry of the teeth along with the geometry of the gullet.

Four Sharpeners for Sharpening Serrated Rods

How to sharpen serrated knives
From left, with manufacturer’s suggested retail prices in parentheses: Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener ($11.99); Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener ($7.99); GATCO Scepter 2.0 ($25.95); and DMT Diafold Serrated Sharpener ($32.99). The knife is the author’s Spyderco Civilian.
Serrated knife sharpeners
The foursome in the closed position, from left: GATCO Scepter 2.0, DMT Diafold Serrated Sharpener, Smith’s Diamond
Retractable Sharpener and Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener.

Here’s a good place to start. Our lineup of four sharpeners consists of the GATCO Scepter 2.0, Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener, DMT Diafold serrated sharpener and Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener.

GATCO Scepter 2.0

Serrated knife sharpening tips
The GATCO is a bit of a multi-tool with, from
right, a carbide sharpener, diamond cone and a ferrocerium rod all in one.

Of the four, the GATCO Scepter 2.0 is more multi-tool than sharpener only.

If you are into gadgets that serve more than one purpose, the Scepter 2.0 is for you. It has two tungsten-carbide blades for sharpening, a ferrocerium rod and a diamond cone sharpener. All are in a compact package that resembles a tactical pen. The diamond rod has a groove for sharpening fishhooks.

The cone has a medium-grade texture and a broad taper. The cone is 3.75 inches long and tapers from .113 to .392 of an inch in diameter. Why does the taper matter? If the taper is steep, during sharpening you will have a shorter cut as the cone will get too wide too quickly for some smaller serrations. Overall length: 6.125 inches.

If you’re looking for a sharpener as an everyday carry tool, the Scepter 2.0 is a good choice. The cone is a bit chunky but works fine for all but the smallest serrations. I am not a big fan of carbide sharpening blades because they hog off a lot of metal, though I don’t mind them on rough cutting tools. I haven’t had the Scepter long enough to testify to the durability of the diamond cone but so far it is holding up well.

Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener

Sharpen a serrated knife
The Smith’s rod has three surfaces—flat, conical and round (inset)—to tackle any number of sharpening jobs. The flat surface in combination with the diamond cone makes it easy to sharpen combo-edge blades.

Smith’s Diamond Retractable Sharpener is the trimmest of the group and looks like a pen when collapsed. It is possible to use the cone shape to sharpen a plain edge, but with the Smith’s model the diamond coated sharpener has two ends.

One end has a flat section and the other is tapered for serrated edges. Of the group the Smith’s hone has the most aggressive grit. The body of the holder is aluminum and has a pen clip. (The GATCO Scepter could use a pen clip to complete it.) Closed length: 5.187 inches.

Again, I could see this tool in someone’s EDC kit, a tackle box or camping gear. At the tip the cone measures .06 inch and at the widest point .256 inch in diameter. With such a fine tip expanding in size over its 2.375-inch length, the Smith’s hone sharpens a wide range of serration styles. At a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $7.99, it does not have to last a lifetime to pay for itself.

DMT Diafold

Serrated knife sharpening tips
A sharpener with a fine tip like the DMT Diafold is needed to get small serration patterns back to sharp again.

The DMT Diafold serrated sharpener comes in three color-coded grits: coarse (blue) 325 mesh or 45 micron, fine (red) 600 mesh or 25 micron, and X fine (green) 1200 mesh or 9 micron. I used the red.

Of the quartet it was the longest, finest-grit tapered cone. Overall length: 4.5 inches. It tapers in diameter from .62 inch at the tip to .25 inch at the base.

To store the sharpening cone DMT uses a folding handle system similar to a butterfly knife. The handle is a clear polycarbonate. At 5 inches closed and as with the others the Diafold is compact enough to be EDC’d.

I’ve had a number of DMT Diafolds over the years and they are still in working order. You have to use some of the diamond sharpeners a lot before they will wear out. I will say when open, the very appearance of the Diafold can send shivers down your spine as it resembles an icepick. It works well and if you like something with a fuller handle to it, a Diafold might be your shtick.

Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener

Accusharp serrated knife sharpener
Accusharp uses a friction fit to hold the Diamond Compact Sharpener open and closed.

The Accusharp Diamond Compact Sharpener is 3.125 inches long with inch diameters of .06 at the tip and .305 at the base. A plastic body with a rubberized coating houses the unit—definitely low tech and follows the K.I.S.S. principle. A friction fit holds the sharpener open and closed. The fit is tight and you don’t have to worry about the two sides separating accidentally. An integral pen clip is on the main body’s housing. The clip doesn’t seem robust and I can see it eventually snapping off.

The sharpener has a medium-grit diamond coating and functioned well during testing. Accusharp includes a hook groove I find rather large. Maybe it’s for big fish. The closed length is the shortest of the group: 4.75 inches.

I like the design because as with the Smith’s sharpener it appears to be a standard pen as opposed to the GATCO model’s large-tactical-pen look. If you want to carry a sharpener and not let anyone know you have one so you aren’t constantly loaning it out, the Smith’s might be the ticket. As far as feel, the handle diameter is nice and comfortable.

 

The First Big Knife Show of 2021, ICCE is Returning to Texas

GRAB YOUR COWBOY BOOTS AND HATS!

Its been a long sabbatical between major knife shows but that wait will come to a welcome halt March 26-27 with the International Custom Cutlery Exposition (ICCE) at the FortWorth Stockyards in Fort Worth, Texas.

Presented by BLADE, the ICCE will pair some of the worlds best custom knifemakers with a select group of cowboy artisans. The best in sharpened steel will be joined by some of the top work in spurs, conchos, leatherwork and more in what promises to be a unique kind of event combining the world of knives with the world of the wild, wild west, 21stcentury style.

Above: Photos from the 2019 ICCE Show (taken by Scott Schuster)

We  have a high concentration of makers and subscribers in the Texas area, BLADE Show/ICCE director Alicia Newton noted, and a significant number of those makers are expected to attend. Some of the industrys top slipjoint makers and ABS master, journeyman and apprentice smiths hail from the Longhorn State, and they as well as specialists in other top genres of custom knives, knifemaking suppliers, embellishers and more will be on hand to exhibit their wares in all their whetted wonder.

As for the cowboy gear element, it promises to give the event a flair rarely seen in the realm of custom knife shows.

In addition to the outstanding craftsmanship attendees can expect to find from our knife community, we will also be introducing products by high-end cowboy artisans,Newton commented. We believe these products will add a new element to the knife show and help distinguish it from other events in the knife community.

 

2021 REBOOT

The successor to the old Knifemakers Guild Show, the inaugural ICCE was held in September 2015 in Kansas City and featured members of both the Guild and the American Bladesmith Society (ABS) exclusively all-under-one-roof in the first-ever show of its kind. It was moved to the Fort Worth Stockyards in March 2019, where it met with solid reviews. However, last years rendition, as was the case with many knife shows and other events, was canceled due to Covid-19. In an effort to reboot the ICCE in 2021 better than ever  before, show coordinator Jerry Moen and other officials of both the Guild and ABS turned to the BLADE Show brain trust for guidance.

Our company is always looking for new opportunities to expand the BLADE brand name, Newton noted. Therefore, taking over the show in Texas was a natural fit.

Part of that fit is the cowboy gear of the exhibiting cowboy artisans.

As noted, we will have about 20-to25 cowboy artisans that will be displaying and selling their products at the event, Newton stated. In addition, as the show continues to grow, we will introduce experiences specific to the Texas show that wont take place at our other BLADE Show events.

Above: Photos from the 2019 ICCE Show (taken by Scott Schuster)

Other than the addition of the select group of cowboy artisans, the show itself will remain largely unchanged this year. According to BLADE Show officials, their goal early on for the new arrangement is to keep the ICCE close to what it has been before slowly transitioning in the ensuing years to more of a BLADE Show type of event.

In keeping with that focus, the ABS will not present awards or do any testing for ABS master or journeyman smith stamps at ICCE—the ABS does most of that at the BLADE Show. However, the Guild will present its awards, including honors for knives in the following categories: Best Art; Best Bowie; Best Fighter; Best Dressed Fighter; Best Folder; Best Multi-Blade Folder; Best Collaboration; Best Hunter; Judges Choice; and Best Tactical Folder. The Guild also will present its annual Red Watson Award, Nate Posner Award and Hank Rummel Award, the latter for best first-year probationary Guild member, and determine both its new voting and probationary members. The ICCE,meanwhile, will present awards for knives in the following categories: Best Forged Blade; Best Bowie; Best Art; Best of Show; Best Combat Knife; Best Folder; Best Hunter; Best Damascus; and Best Collaboration.

 

FULL IMMERSION

In addition to great knives, makers, cowboy gear and more, the ICCE will feature the sights and sounds of the Fort Worth Stockyards. Everything you might expect from a Western/cowboy experience—bull riding, the Texas Cowboy Hall Of Fame, outstanding country music, Legends of Texas Gunfight Shows, the best in local eateries and drinking establishments, shopping, events for the entire family, a petting zoo, even the Fort Worth Herd cattle drive (not once but twice daily)—the Fort Worth Stockyards has it.

This event wont be just another typical knife show but will have unique elements specific to Texas that will help set it apart, Newton observed. At the end of each show day, attendees can take in all the sights and sounds of the Fort Worth area without having to drive anywhere.

In other words, the ICCE is not only a knife show but a two-day celebration of Texas culture, history and entertainment as well.

Come for the weekend. You dont need a car. Shopping, restaurants, bars—including the worlds largest honky tonk bar—all within walking distance makes for a fully immersive experience, Newton noted. It will be one of the first opportunities for the knifemaking community to all get back together again.

The Hyatt Place Fort Worth Historic Stockyards (800-833-1516) provides outstanding accommodations in the heart of the Stockyards. For information on it and other places to stay, including the exhibitor list, tickets, attractions and more, visit icceshow.com.

91-Year-Old Knifemaker Murray Sterling is Still Going Strong

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Murray Sterling has seen a lot and done a lot in his 91 years on this earth. For the past 30, he’s made a name for himself as a custom knifemaker. When approached about doing a story for BLADE® that focuses in part on his age, he agreed without hesitation. 

“I’m proud that I’m still here to talk about it!” he grinned. “I love to go out to the shop and do this stuff. I don’t have any real physical ailments and I’m steady enough. I can do just about anything—and I just love doing it. It’s therapy!”

In terms of making knives, Murray seems to be at his best these days. He attributes it all to experience, saying every time he makes a knife, he refines his knowledge base. “I can make 10 knives in a row, and I’ll learn something from one to the other,” he related. “A little different, and a little easier, a little better.” 

Murray made this stag stockman earlier this year.

One of the most interesting things about Murray’s career is that he didn’t even start making knives until after he retired, likening it to “a good retirement hobby.” Machining was his original career choice. He recalled that back in 1947, when he was a “late teenager,” he and his cousin decided they didn’t want to go to school anymore. Murray said, “Let’s go get a job,” and they drove to a nearby tool-and-die shop. “They hired both of us,” he remembered. “My cousin didn’t stay too long but I was there for about four years.”

Flash forward about a decade and Murray had gotten married and started his own machine shop. Being in southern California in the wake of World War II, he found himself doing jobs for big companies like Hughes Aircraft and Northrop Aviation. A typical job was machining hydraulics parts for aircraft such as the DC-7 and, later, the B1 Bomber. His work product spread out across the world.

Pictured: Murray’s dual linerlock folder sports 2 3/8-inch blades of Doug Ponzio damascus, ancient walrus ivory scales and filework. Closed length: 3.5 inches.

“It was all about high quality and reliability,” he recalled of his formative days, and he carried that ethic forward over the following three decades of his successful business. In 1986, he decided to retire, but kept his shop in the family for a few more years. This was about when computer numerically controlled machines were becoming prevalent, so, Murray recalled, he figured it was time to get out of the business. Consequently, he closed up shop and brought some machines home to start making knives.

“I’m an old-school machinist. I started on old overhead belt-drive machines,” he recalled. “When I went out of business, we had some pretty modern machines, but not CNC.”

Murray doesn’t keep it a secret that he’s not a big fan of using CNCs or water-jet equipment, though he understands why makers use them and that the machines certainly make things easier. He explained that in his day all the machines had handles, but the trend continued toward “machines with buttons that can be programmed from 50 feet away.”

Murray’s dual mid-release auto features ATS-34 stainless blades, a 416 stainless steel frame and stag scales. Closed length: 4 1/8 inches.

“When I started working in that tool-and-die shop, there were about six tool-and-die makers in there,” he remembered. “When they came in in the morning, they’d bring out their files, a cup of coffee and a cigarette. It’s hard to imagine how much hand work they did in those days. They had an old lathe and an old mill, but most of the work was done on the bench filing and sanding.” 

As he reflected, he added that he admires some of the “out-of-this-world” knife designs that have resulted with the benefit of computerized, automated machines. “They do fantastic work, no question about it,” he allowed. “The machinery these days makes it much easier. If I was 20 years younger, I’d probably have one!”

FIRST KNIFE SHOW

His journey into the knife world began in 1977, when he ventured into the MGM Grand in Las Vegas for a knife and antique gun show. It was there he experienced his first custom knife show and bought his first custom knife—a coffin-handle folder from BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Wayne Goddard. “That was when I got impressed with the work that these guys were doing with the equipment they had in those days,” he recalled.

Murray set out to learn knifemaking in 1989. Along the way, he had guidance and education from a lot of makers, as well as reading iconic books on how to make knives. However, he draws a distinction between that and actually learning the craft. He characterizes himself as mostly self-taught through a lot of trial and error and the determination to put in shop time.  

Murray profiles bolsters on his belt grinder.

“Hollow grinding is not something you can teach somebody,” he explained. “They can tell you how to do it and show you how to do it, but you have to put in the time and learn to get the feel for yourself. You can’t give the feel to somebody.” So, he burned up a lot of gloves, as well as his fingers sometimes, until he finally learned how to do it.

He made fixed blades until about 1991, when he talked to slip-joint master Jess Horn a lot about transitioning to making folders. Murray said that’s when he learned he needed to add a surface grinder to his shop. “I didn’t make really good folders until I got a surface grinder,” he allowed. “I learned a lot from Jess.”

That year, Murray also sold his first knife. By 1995 he had won his initial award—for best folder—at the Oregon Knife Collectors Association Show. He was on the map.

Murray made this stag stockman in 1999. Note the blade mark of his surname in cursive.

Over the course of the ensuing 25 years, he would go on to make and sell a wide variety of folders that runs the gamut of styles and mechanism applications, from traditional multi-blade slip joints to modern automatics and seemingly everything in between. His choice of blade steel is ATS-34 stainless, and a wide array of beautiful damascus forged by Mike Norris, Devin Thomas, Alabama Damascus or Doug Ponzio.

“I’ve never had a lot of luck selling wood handles, so I like a lot of stag, ivory and pearl,” he explained. He also uses acrylic to great effect. When he wanted to start doing inlay, Murray said, he turned to award-winning maker Tim Herman. “I wanted to do inlay and I called him—this must have been 15 or 20 years ago,” he recalled. “I’m still doing inlay the way he taught me, which is the hard way.”

As for mechanisms, he enjoys making several variations of locks including button, front, mid, rear and even dual locking liners. He also makes autos that feature bolster release, button release, mid-release, top release, frame release and most any release imaginable. 

A double-ground damascus blade, a bolster of mokume gane and an ancient ivory handle highlight Murray’s folder. Note his “S” mark on the ricasso.

“They’re hot and cold,” he surmised of making autos. “Two years ago, I sold 10 right off the bat in Atlanta. Then the next year, they cooled off, so I went to something else. Every year you have to come up with something new and stay aware of the trends.”

In fact, the true problem Murray admitted to is, after making knives for 30 years or so, he must continuously come up with something new. Trends tend to go round and round, he explained, so what was hot 10 years ago will go away and then return.

Nowadays, Murray goes to only a couple of shows each year, including the BLADE Show, with his 63-year-old son, Steve, who has started making knives the past couple of years. Murray admits that the shows are getting too long for him and he gets worn out pretty quickly.

“My son goes with me all the time or otherwise I probably wouldn’t go,” he noted. “I don’t go to the ICCE Show”—he’s been a voting member of the Knifemakers’ Guild since 2000—”because it’s a two-day drive and I just don’t think I could handle it.

CHANGING TIMES

When asked about what he’s taken note of as any drastic changes in the industry over all these years, he mentioned few things in particular. One, as mentioned, is the evolution of equipment across the board. “The quality of the knives back in the day was great, but the quality of the equipment today is 100 percent better,” he pointed out. “The gravers, the machines, even the belts you can get today—2,000-to-3,000-grit belts. You couldn’t get that 25 or 35 years ago.”

The other drastic change he’s noticed is the Internet, which he believes changed the industry in terms of selling knives. While the real knife collectors still want to see and know the maker, he’s noticed a lot of impulse buyers on the Web.

Also, he added, “Instead of hundreds of custom knifemakers, today there’s probably thousands of them. They’re using water jets to cut out the blanks and using CNC machines—there’s a lot of production, it seems like. They’re still custom made,” he qualified, “but handmade is kind of going out the window.”

However, as usual throughout our conversation, Murray hesitated to grind for too long on makers who use state-of-the-art equipment, concluding, “There’s a market for everything. High-dollar, low-dollar, mid-dollar—two-dollar knives and two-thousand-dollar knives. There always seems like there’s a buyer today.”

“Hollow grinding is not something you can teach somebody,” Murray explained. “They can tell you how to do it and show you how to do it, but you have to put in the time and learn to get the feel for yourself.” He continues to get that feel on a regular basis in his grinding room.

For more information on Murray Sterling and his knives, contact him at Dept. BL10, 693 Round Peak Church Rd., Mount Airy, NC 27030 336-352-5110 fax 336-352-5105 [email protected], sterlingcustomknives.com.

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