Page 130 – BLADE Magazine

Knife Performance: Is Steel Type Really the Most Important?

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April 5, 2021

Knife Performance: Is Steel Type Really the Most Important?

It’s easy to use steel type as shorthand for quality, but that’s only one factor when it comes to the performance of a knife. Heat treating, Rockwell hardness and geometry also matter.

Sure, it’s all about the steel. Blade steel makes the knife world go ’round, right? Well, further analysis just might reveal a few additional elements that weigh in on the sharpness of a knife blade, and custom knifemakers already account for these factors when they complete their stock in trade.

In Search of “True Sharpness”

Considering heat treat, edge geometry, handle ergonomics, Rockwell hardness and other contributors, the comprehensive analysis of “true sharpness” is an eye-opening experience.

“Assume that all knives are sharp when you get them,” said maker Jerry Hossom. “The question is more about what you want to cut, and is the edge geometry and finish one that will do the work you want done. For example, a sharp but coarse edge will not hold up well with hard blade materials.”

Frankly, the ingredients are intertwined, and the path to true sharpness makes frequent stops along the way.

Experience in making and cutting with various materials and knife designs brings knowledge of the process and the expected results.

Physical Features

Best knife steels — ABS master smith Jim Crowell has won a number of cutting competitions through the years, including the first ABS/BLADE Show World Championship Cutting Competition in 2003. Here is the knife he used and his championship belt buckle. (Jim Crowell images)

“I can and will only speak from personal experience,” commented ABS master smith Jim Crowell, winner of numerous cutting competitions through the years, including the first ABS/BLADE Show World Championship Cutting Competition in 2003. “Since it would be difficult if not impossible to tell by looking, I would consider the reputation of the maker and his or her history.

“Not knowing who made the knife, I would consider the following: Visualize the geometry and edge treatment. The intangible here is the heat treat. If I’m looking at a knife I know nothing about, the physical features that herald sharpness and performance are blade grind/geometry and the edge. If the blade is ground from the spine to the cutting edge, it achieves the smoothest transition from ‘zero’ at the cutting edge to the full thickness of the spine.

“In my opinion, a flat-ground blade with a convex edge is the best geometry. This is the smoothest transition from cutting edge to spine irrespective of spine thickness or width.”

Steel Type & Blade Performance

Best knife blade steels — “Buying a knife from a reputable maker should be simple,” Tim Britton noted. “My questions would be steel type, Rockwell hardness, and what kinds of tools the maker has in their shop.” Tim’s gentleman’s slippy boasts a 2.5-inch blade of BG-42 stainless steel. Closed length: 3.25 inches. (Eric Eggly/PointSeven image)

Of course, a quick nod to the steel has to figure in. Without the steel itself, nothing else matters.

“How often have I heard that a knife holds an edge very well but is too difficult to sharpen?” Hossom offered. “They are opposite sides of the same coin. Wear resistance in cutting is the same attribute as wear resistance in sharpening, and again, it depends on the intended use.”

Discussion also surrounds standard versus premium steels, given that either is properly prepared.

“So-called standard steels have their place, but I’m not sure where,” explained maker Tim Britton. “I started with O1 in 1972 and Blackie Collins talked me into using 440C. Peer pressure… Ted Dowell, Frank Centofante, Jimmy Lile and Bob Dozier had settled on D2. New stuff like S35VN leaves them all in the dust. It takes twice as many belts to grind the blade and is max stain resistant. I’ve had great field reports from guides who dress a lot of deer, and one who is a pest control hunter and kills a lot of hogs and nutria.”

According to Crowell, everyone probably agrees that quality steel is a must.

“Some steels lend themselves to cutlery more so than others,” he reasoned. “There are some ‘exotic’ steels that truly outperform, but they are usually more expensive and harder to work with. Then, there are inexpensive steels used in cheap manufactured knives sold in bargain stores.”

Crowell looks at the long-time rub between carbon and stainless steels and likes the “10” series spring steels, 5160, O1, W2 and L6, among others. He prefers steels with 75 percentage points of carbon or more, though 5160 with 60 points of carbon is workable as well.

Rockwell Hardness

For some makers, Rockwell hardness sets the bar in potential sharpness for knife blades. Other factors are important but the scale tells the tale.

“Rockwell hardness has a huge influence on how sharp you can get a knife and how it will hold an edge,” asserted maker Murray Carter. “There may be a rebuttal out there, but I believe it is a universal truth. If hardness is related to how sharp you can get the blade and how it will hold an edge, the element of carbon is responsible for the hardness you can achieve.”

Hardness is forever linked to heat treating. Blades that are not heat treated properly just won’t stay sharp—and they are likely to fail in other performance metrics as well. Game over!

Heat Treating

Best blade steel for knives — “Unless it is heat treated properly, a steel is an undefined mass of metal with uncertain performance qualities,” custom knifemaker Jerry Hossom pointed out. “In fairness, it should not even be labeled as a specific type of steel because such a label implies proper heat treatment.” The blade material on Jerry’s fighter is the
high-performance CPM 3V carbon steel. (Eric Eggly/PointSeven image)

Proclaimed Britton, “Heat treating is critically important for any steel.”

Added Hossom, “Unless it is heat treated properly, a steel is an undefined mass of metal with uncertain performance qualities. In fairness, it should not even be labeled as a specific type of steel because such a label implies proper heat treatment. I have my blades professionally heat treated by Paul Bos Heat Treating because I simply can’t do it as well as he can, especially with high alloy, high performance grades of steel.”

Carter echoed that sentiment.

“Heat treating is so important,” he emphasized. “All our blades are quenched in water, while some quench theirs in oil. Others are just air hardened. Water quenching is severe, an extreme form, and the only one harder is brine quenching.”

Geometry

Crowell ups the ante with the bold statement, “My strong opinion is that heat treat and geometry are more important to the performance of a knife than the specific type of steel. The best steel in the world would not fare well if the heat treat was bad and the geometry poor.”

Stressing edge geometry, Crowell further advises, “Edge geometry is particularly important. If a maker tests his work and is confident about the heat treat but the knife is not cutting well, the edge can be adjusted or ‘rolled’ to a different shape.”

What Factor is the Most Important?

So perhaps the most important takeaway from a discussion on sharpness is the advice the pros give to prospective buyers. Assessing the sharpness and relative quality of the future cutting experience involves a discerning eye and some attention to detail. What advice do custom knifemakers over the buying public?

“I would start by looking at the knife and seeing if the geometry looked good and how well made the knife appeared to be,” Crowell advised. “That would show the maker was paying attention to detail and would be a positive sign to me. I would ask what kind of steel was used and how it was heat treated, and by whom. There are several very good heat treaters out there. If the maker did the heat treat, I would ask how—oven, forge, kiln, torch? I would want to know if the maker tests his work and if he has chopped, whittled, and cut stuff.”

The inquiry is basic, Britton says, and the maker should be forthcoming with reasonable responses.

“Buying a knife from a reputable maker should be simple,” he noted. “My questions would be steel type, Rockwell hardness, and what kinds of tools the maker has in his shop. I’m a dinosaur. I won’t buy a production knife that was made by machines in batches of 20 or 30. I’m a proud member of the ABS and don’t know any steel beaters who mass produce any design.”

The sharpness of a knife blade goes well beyond the steel. The combination of steel, hardness, heat treat, edge geometry and handle ergonomics feeds the finished product. However, these are only as supportive of the knife’s function as the skill set of the maker’s hand in action.

3 Tips for Introducing Kids to Knives

Knife Collecting

W.Z. Sebring

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March 29, 2021

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Introducing kids to knives is a good way to teach safety and start a lifelong interest in blades. Here are three rules to instill in youth right off the bat.

RULE 1: “My knife is a tool, not a toy.”

Removing the curiosity through knowledge and experience is incredibly effective for creating a safe environment for a kid.

Just because the knife is a Buck fixed blade does not make it any more dangerous than a steak knife in a kitchen drawer. Though innocent, a curious boy who has acquired a steak knife to play with is far more dangerous than a boy who has earned the privilege of owning a Buck knife as a tool, in my opinion.

Has anyone ever heard the phrase “curiosity killed the cat?”

RULE 2: “Look around me.”

Granted, this is a vague rule but it stems from so many important aspects of sharing the world with other people.

My goal is to teach him not only about his personal safety but the safety of others as the highest priority. Hurting yourself is one thing but hurting someone else in ignorance is unacceptable.

Therefore, before he uses his knife, he must reflect on his surroundings and ask himself if it is safe through a form of risk mitigation. Risk mitigation fundamentally implies safety and will aid his ability to foresee unsafe situations as he grows.

RULE 3: “Put it away before moving.”

Have you ever misplaced your car keys and wound up driving somewhere in a rush because of the time wasted searching for them? I am guilty of it. Driving in a rush increases your risk of injury and, more importantly, the risk of injuring others. Roughly 37,000 deaths are attributed to vehicle accidents each year. I wonder how many of those deaths were because of people in a rush to get somewhere?

Practicing a consistent pattern of safe behavior has a butterfly effect. Getting in a car accident because you were in a rush is no excuse. The same concept applies to my son, and if he is taught that he is accountable for his pattern of behavior at this age, he will likely grow into an adult unwilling to sacrifice the safety of others because of a personal breach in consistent safe behavior.

Tsuba Time: Make a Guard for a Japanese Sword

Wally Hayes

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March 27, 2021

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Wally Hayes Japanese style sword — The tsuba the author made for this story appears on a katana he said he made for Axl Rose of Guns ‘N Roses fame. All photos via the author.

Making a “tsuba,” Japanese for “guard,” is one of my favorite steps in sword making. You have a chance to build something as simple or as complicated and artistic as you like.

I first started making the tsuba (pronounced SUE-ba) way too thick and heavy, and learned over the years how to refine all of my sword parts. I hope this overview helps shed some light on the subject and gives you some ideas.

I have made tsuba from damascus, mild steel, high-carbon steel and antique wrought iron. Many traditional tsuba were made from folded Japanese steel called “tamahagane.” I used wrought iron for this demonstration.

Step One: Thin it Out

Wally Hayes — Photo 1: Wrought iron forged out and rough cut round for the tsuba.

To begin, cut 3.5 inches of steel from an old wagon wheel. Forge it thinner and wider, and taper the edges thinner all the way around (Photo 1). If you leave the center a little thicker and taper the edges, it looks more balanced and is lighter. Wrought iron is soft and forges out easily and is simple to cut, sand, file and drill. Using the spray from a can of WD-40™, trace around your steel. Cut it out on a band saw and grind the shape round. Sand the tapers even, gradually progressing to finer-grit belts.

Wally Hayes tsuba — Photo 2: Sand the tsuba and start cutting the holes.

Before polishing, I drill the holes (Photo 2). I use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut out the webbing between the holes. You can also try a jeweler’s saw. I use both.

Employing needle files, make the tang hole big enough to slide up to the “sepa” (washer) on the sword. At this point I polish the tsuba to an 800-grit finish.

Depending on how detailed the engraving is, I draw my design on or transfer the design onto the tsuba (Photo 3). This one I drew the design on with a Sharpie® marker. I printed out some of my favorite design pictures to use as a reference.

Engraving and Etching

Now the fun begins: engraving the lines. I use square gravers from GRS and from engraver Steve Lindsey. The new gravers both work great and Steve’s Carbalt gravers got me back into engraving. The tips of standard high-carbon gravers break too often. The new gravers last a long time and take a real beating. I use a Dremel Tool and a high-speed air hand grinder to texture the background (Photo 4).

If you practice it a lot, gold inlay is easy (Photo 5). First, cut your line with a square graver, then take a small flat chisel and tap it perpendicular along the line to undercut the groove. Raise some burrs along the bottom of the groove, then tap in the 24k-gold wire.

After engraving, I etch the tsuba in acid. This brings out the pattern in the wrought iron and resembles damascus somewhat. It gives an old look and feel to the piece. I mix four parts distilled water to one part muriatic acid or ferric chloride. I neutralize the etched steel with Windex® and then lube with WD-40. To bring out the highlights on the engraving, I use a small Cratex® rubber wheel and polish the surface by hand.

When done, I apply Renaissance Wax to keep the tsuba from rusting.

Keep Learning About Making Swords

Rebooting Collections Works Wonders

Pat Covert

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March 19, 2021

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Rebooting collections works wonders. OK, so not everyone does it, but many who have done it one or more times seem to enjoy their collecting more.

Chris Nolen has successfully rebooted his knife collection several times since he started collecting. He began in his pre-teens, fueling his cutlery appetite by mowing lawns, and he even wrote a term paper on hunting knives.

Rebooting collections and Chris Nolan — Rebooting collections has paid dividends for Chris Nolen, here with wife Linda and their bowie knife collection.

“I was married at 24 and started collecting handmade hunting knives. Most were stag drop points or skinners,” Chris recalls. “I met a great local maker named Jerry Berry of Natchitoches, Louisiana, who got me interested in not just the handles, but the steel in the blades. Of course, I would buy BLADE® and other knife magazines, and I would always find myself looking for big bowies.

“One day I was sitting at my desk and drew out a large, sort of re-curved, stag-handled bowie. I mailed it to Jerry and realized it was time to reboot my collection of maybe 40 knives. And reboot I did! I sold most of the old hunters to make money for my new passion for large bowies.” Nolen is an avid collector of fine bowies to this day and is as enthusiastic as ever.

J.T. Oldham is a long-time folder collector of the modern tactical type and has rebooted his collection on occasion.

“I was a regular customer of the House of Blades in Fort Worth, Texas, where I found many great knives, and also bought up all of the back issues of BLADE I could lay my hands on,” Oldham states. “Production knives were just a way to whet my appetite, as I soon realized that what I wanted to collect was custom knives—and those knives had to have damascus steel.”

As a result, J.T. rebooted and started collecting upscale custom folders—and does to this day.

“At the ICCE [International Custom Cutlery Exposition] show in Kansas City last year, I bought a knife from my No. 1 knife hero, Ralph Turnbull. He was the knifemaker who really started it all for me. I remember looking on his website and in the pages of BLADE Magazine and thinking, ‘If I could only someday own one of Ralph’s knives I would really be a true collector.’”

Since retiring, however, Oldham has tempered his budget a bit. “I no longer have the disposable liquid capital I once enjoyed, so my purchases are now somewhat limited,” he lamented. “However, I follow the custom knife industry with the same interest that I focus on my retirement investments.”

Conversely, rebooting collections is something Kevin Jones has never tried.

“My preference for knives hasn’t changed over the 15 years I’ve been collecting,” Kevin relates. “I started out collecting American Bladesmith Society hunting knives and bowies, and that’s still what interests me. I consider myself a custom knife collector and investor. I’ve found to be successful on the investor side it helps to limit your area of interest so as to become very knowledgeable on both the knives—and the particular knife market—for the knives you collect.”

To REBOOT or NOT to REBOOT?

Why should you consider the concept of rebooting collections?

“Many collectors end up rebooting collections early on as a result of buying their first knives on impulse prior to them acquiring the knowledge and exposure to determine what type and style of knives are going to hold their interest long term,” Jones observes.

Before rebooting, you need to answer questions concerning not only your preferences and current status, but outside realities as well.

Rebooting collections and Kevin Jones. — Rebooting collections is not for everyone. Kevin Jones has collected ABS hunting knives and bowies and nothing but for 15 years, and has no plans to reboot anytime soon.

“I guess one of the first things to consider is, are you really ready and willing to reboot your collection and take it in an entirely new direction? Has your perspective or your interest changed? Is this an artistic response or a reaction to market trends? For me, a complete reboot means to liquidate your current collection and re-invest in another direction,” Oldham notes. “Are you no longer happy with your knives? Has there been a downturn which has you concerned your collection has lost value? Are you eager to participate in the latest trend?”

Rebooting collections also raises questions as to whether you should sell your current knife collection to finance a new one.

“I feel that’s up to the individual collector,” Jones opines. “However, many need to sell knives in their current collection to help finance them rebooting. I always recommend that while selling an entire collection through a purveyor or auction may be quicker, selling or liquidating piecemeal via a variety of methods will result in a better return.”

Nolen offers a word of caution he discovered after selling off his first collection to reboot.

“Back then I put ads on internet boards and in the newspaper,” he recalls. “I see some knives on eBay that go for hundreds of dollars now that I only paid six to 12 dollars for back in the ’60s and ’70s. I wish now I had most of those back!”

BEST WAYS to LIQUIDATE

What is the best way to liquidate knives if you do decide to sell off your current collection to finance your new one?

“I feel it’s best to use a variety of methods in selling custom knives,” Jones advises, “including contacting other collectors who are interested in the type knives you are selling, selling some on the better knife purveyor sites, and I’ve been very successful selling knives on my ‘collector website.’ It’s very important to have good photos of your knives listed on the internet. You are basically putting your knives out there for the world to see.”

Rebooting collections and J.T. Hill. — Rebooting collections began for J.T. Oldham when he bought a folder from his hero, custom knifemaker Ralph Turnbull, maker of this damascus linerlock.

“I, for one, would never consider using eBay. Not for my collection,” Oldham states. “And there are just too many trolls on the knife forums! I know that there are decent knife forums, but I simply would not regard that as the right place to offer my knives. I would work one-on-one with certain interested parties—and those individuals may be found on forums. This is all said from my perspective and the knowledge I have of certain individuals with whom I have dealt with in the past. I have a rather large and reliable network of purveyors and collectors whom I trust. A good resource for purveyors is BLADE and the KNIVES annual for a comprehensive listing of those who are associated with the knife community.”

Studying and researching the professionals who deal in knife sales, and then determining who among them are the most knowledgeable and reliable for advice is a must.

“Your purveyor of choice is your best ally in determining what would be in your best interest,” Oldham continues. “If this reboot is purely for financial or investment purposes, no one knows the value of knives better than those who actually determine the value of knives on a day-to-day basis. While they may be able to provide a rough ballpark estimate for your collection, values are subject to change. Be prepared to be presented with values which may be far less than you expected or you’re willing to accept. Be willing to make compromises in order to achieve your goal and obtain what you are truly after, as in any business deal.”

Also keep in mind that when selling to purveyors it is important to remember they are in the business to make money, so they must have a profit margin built into the knives they buy.

IS IT TIME?

As you can see from the comments of our seasoned aficionados, collectors are a distinctly different lot—but that’s what makes the whole avocation of cutlery collecting interesting. As human beings we all have a level of curiosity to see what’s on the other side of the door. Once we have opened it we can either leave or explore. Keep in mind a reboot does not have to be an overnight decision. You can always wade into another genre or style without a full commitment. Whether you wish to upgrade your collection, totally switch gears or seek an investment, there are fresh new knives out there to satisfy any desire.

What’s the Best Kind of Knife Grind?

Pat Covert

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March 19, 2021

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Is There a Perfect Blade Grind?

Who knows when the first argument over the best blade grind started? Most likely it was a conversation between two flintknappers sitting around a cave—and the battle of which grind is the best rages on to this day. The modern tactical and bushcraft movements have brought heated debates on which grind is the best. The grind of a blade is where a key battle is won, and blade geometry varies widely. But is there a so-called best blade grind and, if so, which one is it?

Curved or Flat?

walter brend custom knives — Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice. The man some call the best grinder ever shows his stuff here. (Rodney Hiers image)

According to Wikipedia, blade geometry refers to the “physical properties of a sword blade: cross-section (or grind) and taper.”

You can forget the “sword” qualifier—blade geometry applies to any blade. The three most common blade grinds in use today are hollow, flat and convex, with other grinds of note are the chisel, asymmetrical, Scandi and compound. There are others.

Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice.

“What works for me is the hollow grind,” Brend says. “The hollow-ground blade is not a flat surface, it is concaved, so as you cut an object it immediately starts a separation. The bottom edge should flow from the point to the back of the blade with a recurved blade edge.”

Knifemaker Bob Dozier, well known for making hard-use knives, prefers the hollow grind as well.

“Since I make mostly hunting knives, I prefer the drop-point blade style. Since Bob Loveless popularized the drop point, it’s been the most popular shape for hunting knives for many decades now. Also, for a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer.”

hollow grind blade — Like Walter Brend, Bob Dozier prefers the hollow grind. “For a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer,” Dozier opines. Bob’s fixed blade features a nice, clean hollow grind. (Kerry Peal images)

However, that’s not to say Dozier is adverse to other grinds.

“The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” he opines. “A convex grind is great for splitting firewood.”

Award-winning American Bladesmith Society master smith Jim Crowell won the 1st Annual BLADE Show World Championship Cutting Competition in 2003 and was inducted into the ABS Hall of Fame in 2016.

“My opinion for the best blade geometry is a full flat grind with a convex edge,” Crowell begins. “This grind will give the smoothest transition from the full thickness of the spine to the cutting edge—anything else is something less.”

Crowell is also very familiar with the Bill Moran appleseed or convex grind, which is based on the Japanese hamaguri or “clamshell” grind.

“Bill Moran did like full convex blade geometry,” Crowell notes. “He ground on a round wheel and meticulously shaped the whole blade to have a convex cross section. I have cut with several of Bill’s knives and they were very sharp and had great geometry.

“The full convex grind performs in an exemplary manner, but I cannot discern any advantage in performance over a full flat grind with a convex edge. You do not just slap a convex edge on a blade. There are a myriad of variables: how thick was the edge when you started the roll? How high or low did you roll it? A short and abrupt roll may shave but will not cut well at all.”

Bob Dozier custom knifemaker — “The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” opines Bob Dozier, here busy at his shop grinder. (Pat Covert image)

Degrees of Difficulty

Curious as to the degree of difficulty of applying the various grinds, BLADE® asked Brend, Dozier and Crowell which they thought are the most difficult to execute. They provided varied opinions.

“I think whichever one you do the most is easiest, and the one you do the least is hardest,” Crowell notes. “Once upon a time I used to hollow grind a lot, but then I started to cut a lot and it became apparent to me a flat grind would cut better overall for my use. I gradually phased out hollow grinding and now find it difficult as compared to flat grinding.”

Dozier adds pointedly, “I don’t find any of them hard. I think it depends on how you learn to grind at first. A lot of the makers today learned from someone else and stick with the grind they learned.”

Brend ranked the grinds in order of difficulty.

“Hollow-ground knives, in my opinion, are the hardest to grind,” he begins. “You have to control the blade on a wheel to form a perfect symmetrical line. In my opinion you should keep the point thick, and, at the same time, make your edges sharp and thin.

“Flat ground is next after hollow. In my opinion a true flat-ground blade should be finished by hand because the grinding belt will not allow a true flat surface. Convex is the easiest because you have no set lines or pattern when grinding.”

Order of Importance

best blade grinds — At the grinder here, Bob Dozier says blade geometry is more crucial
in terms of a blade’s cutting performance than the type of steel or
how it is heat treated. “The most important is blade geometry,” he
notes. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do
with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.” (Pat Covert image)

Is blade geometry the most important aspect of a blade’s cutting effectiveness, or is the type of steel or proper heat treating most crucial?

“The most important is blade geometry,” Dozier says. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.”

Crowell differs.

“Heat treat, geometry and steel, in that order,” he opines. “If the heat treat is wrong, the rest will be of little consequence. Proper geometry is next in importance. The steel, although important, is not the determining factor. Of course, you need to have a ‘good’ steel, but it is not the steel that makes the difference. Just because you may have the latest, greatest steel does not mean you will have a superior knife. You have to do it all correctly and in the right order.”

Brend ranks the three differently.

“I think the type of steel is the most important. With proper heat treating you can vary from two-to-four points [on the Rockwell hardness scale] and still cut with the knife because of the type of steel,” he says. “Heat treating is second. With most steels you can be within two points and still cut with the blade. All heat treaters are not the same because of the equipment or their method. Geometry would be the last because if you use the proper steel, you should be able to make any blade work well.”

Flunking Geometry

custom knife mistakes — Uneven grind/plunge lines (right) as seen from the bottom of the blade are one of the more obvious and common things to look for in a bad grind. By contrast, the plunge lines at left are nice and even.

Finally, what makes a bad blade grind?

“What I look for are the grind lines,” Brend explains. “Are the sharp edges of lines rolled? Also, at the back of the blade—where the [grind] line starts—is the steel uneven? I see some hollow grinds where the edges are too thin. If you hit a hard object the blade will chip.”

Opines Dozier: “A poor grind is shown with uneven grind lines, crooked cutting edges or a non-uniform cutting edge.”

“Poor grinding is evidenced by several telltale signs,” Crowell interjects. “Uneven grind/plunge lines as one would look from the bottom of the blade. This is one of the more obvious and common things to look for. Also, the finish on the bottom of the ricasso and choil area is often neglected. You can hold a blade horizontal and look down the flat of the bevel and it should be smooth as glass with no ripples or distortions.”

Jim also notes that on symmetrical patterns such as daggers, look for mirrored-image grinds on both sides of the blade.

One interesting takeaway: The perfect grind may just be determined by how you plan to use your knife—or perhaps you may need two or more knives to cover all the bases.

Keep Learning About Knifemaking

4 AWESOME LINERLOCK EDC KNIVES

Dexter Ewing

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March 4, 2021

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When it comes to EDC folder locks, the linerlock is hard to beat

Few folding knife locks perform as well for everyday carry (EDC) as the linerlock. Constructed properly, the linerlock is easy to open and, especially on a knife that includes a blade opener and a pocket clip, is a snap to carry, deploy, open and close, all with one hand—an EDC hallmark.

CRKT Knives CEO

Designed by award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers, the CEO Bamboo linerlock folder is one of the more slender knives from CRKT. It’s an unobtrusive folder that won’t weigh you down and is ideal for dress suit carry. In fact, it can carry attached to a shirt pocket a la a ballpoint pen. It blends well with the office crowd, as it is a low profile design that will not raise eyebrows.

Just over 3 inches long, the blade is 8Cr13MoV stainless steel for a good balance of edge holding and resharpening ease. The trailing-point blade opens quickly and efficiently via a thumb stud. The pivot’s Ikoma Korth Bearing System (IKBS) enhances smooth blade action. A saber-style primary grind combined with a full-length swedge grind gives the blade a bit of attitude.

Award-winning knifemaker Richard Rogers designed the CEO Bamboo from CRKT to be the quintessential office carry folder. It is tailored for such daily uses as trimming stray threads from clothing.

The handle consists of two stainless steel liners and glass-reinforced nylon scales. The scales are molded in a color and shape/texture to mimic bamboo. The handle’s squared off butt resembles the classic doctor’s knife/pillbuster pocketknife pattern. A deep carry, fold-over clip allows the knife to ride low in a pants or shirt pocket, or inside a sport coat breast pocket.

The linerlock engages firmly and secures the blade open with no play. Simply hit the thumb stud and the blade pops open fast to the locked position thanks to the IKBS. Firmly push the edge of the exposed portion of the lock spring, and the blade unlocks and rotates closed as easily as it opens. I like how simple it is to open and close the blade, especially for such a slender folder. Many such folders do not manipulate easily due to their size.

Opening mail is one of the many tasks the slender blade of the CRKT CEO Bamboo does well.

And for a slender folder, the CEO has plenty of bite. The slim blade slits open envelopes and packages effortlessly. I like how it blends in and does its thing with no unnecessary fanfare. The only negative about the CEO is also a positive—the deep carry clip. The fold-over design creates a hot spot when you grip the handle but carries the closed folder deep in the pocket, which is nice. Given that the knife isn’t made for prolonged, heavy duty use, I find the clip to be a good thing. Made in China, the CEO has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $54.99. It is a great value.

EXCELLENT SLICER: Citadel Kampot

The Citadel Kampot linerlock folder sports a 3-inch drop point blade of Bohler N690 stainless steel. N690 is a mid-grade stainless with great edge holding properties but also is rather easy to resharpen. It is a fine alternative to today’s “super steels.” The ergonomic handle has double stainless steel liners and stabilized blue beech scales. Red liners add a subtle pop of color. The scales are nicely rounded and contoured so the folder rests in your grip comfortably with no hot spots. An integrated guard prevents your hand from sliding onto the blade edge and, together with a bird’s beak butt, keeps your hand on the handle.

The linerlock secures tightly with zero blade play. Five large notches in the end of the liner aid thumb traction in unlocking the blade. The Kampot has a nail nick opener instead of a thumb stud, hole, disc or flipper, so it is the only knife of the test bunch that requires two hands to open, though it does close with one hand like the others. Neither does it have a clip.

The Citadel Kampot (left) easily rivals most any working folder with its drop point blade. The high polish of the steel makes it easy to clean as well.

At 4.5 inches closed the Kampot is rather large, which might make it a bit uncomfortable for pocket carry. A braided leather lanyard attached to the handle permits you to fish the folder easily from a pocket. The knife is good looking, with the blade, liners and handle screws exhibiting a high polish.

The flat-ground blade is an excellent slicer. However, out of the box it was not as sharp as I prefer. I gave it a few light strokes on a ceramic rod followed by stropping and that enhanced its bite. The grip is very comfortable and a great alternative to folders with flat handle profiles. It is really nice looking. The beech scales differ slightly in color. The test model has streaks of tan and blue-green as well. It reminds me of how brass and copper patina when exposed to the elements over time and get a blueish green hue. The Kampot is a great alternative if you’re not into the all black and edgy tactical folder look. The blade pivot is not exposed, so the pivot tension is not adjustable. This cleans up the look, though I know some knife guys like to adjust the pivot tension to their own liking.

Citadel’s Kampot folder is a bit rough around the edges but remains a very efficient cutting tool. The flat-ground blade slices through a variety of materials with gusto.

A negative is the knife’s size, though for some that is a good thing. The lack of a clip is compounded by the lack of a belt sheath. The Kampot needs one. For me, the knife is too big to carry in the pocket, so belt carry would be the best option. On the other hand, ready-made belt sheaths are rather easy to find (a good source is Smoky Mountain Knife Works at smkw.com/knife-accessories/sheaths). Made in Cambodia, the Kampot has an MSRP of $205.

CHECKS ’EM ALL: Puma SGB

The Mach 1, along with the Sonic, are linerlock flipper folders Puma SGB introduced in 2020. They are identical, sharing the same handle materials/design and blade material. The only difference is the Sonic features a clip point blade and the Mach 1 has a modified drop point. With its hollow ground main bevel and generous, sweeping belly, the 3.6-inch blade in the latter pattern accomplishes a wide variety of cutting tasks. It is a large folder ideal for the ample knife jobs you have, indoors or out.

The German 1.4116 stainless steel holds an edge well and is fairly easy to resharpen. It is a steel found mainly in kitchen knives and is highly stain resistant. It isn’t commonly used in the knife industry, and expect performance to be equivalent to 440A or even 420HC stainless. Its lower overall production costs are passed on to you in the form of a great value.

A flipper tab offers quick and effortless one-hand deployment. The swift, smooth action is aided by a pair of ceramic caged ball bearings in the pivot. The handle features nice carbon fiber scales, giving the Mach 1 a modern, futuristic appearance—it is eye catching the way the light reflects off the strands in the weave pattern. The chamfered edges of the carbon fiber are textured to aid grip retention. A deep carry, fold-over pocket clip totes the closed folder blade tip down in the pocket, deep enough to conceal the knife yet hold it within easy reach.

The Puma SGB Mach 1 matches 1.4116 stainless steel with a sturdy handle sporting carbon fiber scales and stainless steel liners. The blade rides on ceramic bearings for smooth opening and closing.

The Mach 1 checks all the boxes: great fit and finish, silky smooth blade action, and super sharp and ready to work right out of the box. The drop point blade adapts to most any task. The edge has a nice bite and easily sinks into the material being cut. As wide as the handle is, you can get a really good grip that instills confidence. The open-frame handle promotes ease of cleaning. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $149.99. For the money, it’s a solid value in features and performance.

The hollow grind of the Puma SGB Mach 1’s drop point blade (middle left) helps provide plenty of bite for tough tasks such as cutting thick rubber hose.

NEW LEVEL of CHIC: F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives

Taking EDC folders to a new level of chic, the F24 Nutcracker from Steel Will Knives features bold styling with a sheepsfoot blade and an ergonomic handle. The 3.4-inch blade is Bohler N690 stainless steel. The flat grind is tailored for both stout utility applications and lateral strength. A flipper is integrated for fast opening and is assisted by ceramic bearings, which promote super-smooth action and rapid deployment.

A large finger recess at the pivot allows you to index the G-10 grip, while the “bird’s beak” butt captures your hand. The G-10 has a light 3-D machining pattern that aids purchase. Traction notches at the thumb rest on the spine supply grip to bear down for power cuts. Dual nested stainless steel liners provide a rigid backbone and the nesting feature reduces overall handle thickness. Two large standoffs add style. A smaller standoff at the rear acts as a tie-off point for a lanyard (not included).

Even the pocket clip is nicely done. It’s sculpted, styled titanium that carries the closed folder blade tip up and is secured via one large screw. The clip’s shape mimics the handle’s curvature, and the overlay adds to aesthetics. It’s great to see a company put extra effort and thought into the clip, which looks better than standard stamped clips. It definitely holds the knife securely in the pocket.

The F24-33 Nutcracker has a black stonewashed blade, black liners, standoffs and clip, and a green G-10 handle. At 4.5 inches closed, the knife is sized just right to handle just about any cutting task. The linerlock secures quite tightly at the lower third of the tang with no blade play. A series of traction notches at the exposed portion of the liner permits the thumb to easily seat and secure itself to unlock the blade.

HOW LINERLOCKS SHOULD LOCK

Many knife nuts in-the-know have certain preferences to where a brand new linerlock knife’s lock spring should hit on the tang when the blade is locked open. Some prefer it to hit in the lower third of the tang, from the linerlock side. Some prefer it to hit in the middle.

One thing to remember about linerlocks is there is a break-in period for the lock. In other words, as the metal on the end of the lock spring wears to conform with the tang, it is likely that the spring will travel more toward the center of the tang—not a whole lot, just a little. Hence, it is probably best to select a linerlock knife where the spring hits on the lower third so it can compensate some following the break-in period.

— by Dexter Ewing

Above: The test linerlocks exhibit how they wedge the blades open at the tangs, from left: Steel Will Nutcracker, Puma SGB Mach I, Citadel Kampot and CRT CEO Bamboo. On the tang of the blade where the linerlock spring directly hits, the face is machined at an angle so that when the spring moves into place, there is a wedging effect that stops the spring from moving any farther. Titanium is an ideal material for the spring as titanium tends to gall, or stick, to steel, and, of course, the tang is steel.

BLADE’S SPECIAL EDC ISSUE

Melissa Miller

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February 18, 2021

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A bevy of EDC knives graces the cover of our special EDC issue: the CRKT CEO, V Nives Killabite, Hogue Knives First Response Trauma Tool, TOPS Knives Mini Tanimboca Puukko and Gerber Knife Key Note.

CRKT’s CEO is a slender Richard Rogers design with the go-to lock of many EDC folders: a linerlock. For a small EDC in damascus blade steel with a miniature tactical feel, the V Nives Killabite fills the bill. The Mini Tanimboca Puukko is a neck knife that doubles as a small bushcraft model thanks in part to its flat-back Scandi-ground blade. The Hogue Knives First Response Trauma Tool is perhaps the most utilitarian in terms of EDC: a rescue knife. And finally, the Outdoor Edge MiniBlaze is a keychain knife—the type of EDC you don’t usually need to worry about remembering to take along with you because it’s with your keys.

The images of all of the cover knives are courtesy of the participating companies. To subscribe to BLADE Magazine for just $19.99 a year, click here.

BLADE Magazine