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5 Leading Sharpening Rods

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5 LEADING SHARPENING RODS TAKE THE AUTHOR’S SHARP TEST

The sharpening rod is perhaps the No. 1 kitchen knife accessory in many households. Why? Usually 8 to 12 inches long, it is a hardened steel rod with a coating of industrial diamonds that helps abrade steel and lightly sharpens a  cutting edge. Most models are basic and there’s not much to them. They are more effective than standard butcher-type steels that align the edge and don’t remove material, and are good for regular maintenance of kitchen knives in between professional sharpening.

Accusharp 9-inch

Accusharp offers a 9-inch sharpening steel, model #034C. The ergonomic, rubber overmold handle makes it easy to hold thanks to the non-slip grip. It stores easily in a drawer or hangs from an extra-large handle hole. The guard is round, so the sharpener will roll when you set it down, which can be annoying. It does not come with a container for protection while not in use.

The steel and its fine abrasive in a 1500 grit maintains a blade well. My only complaint is with the soft rubber part of the co-molded handle. The rubber is in a diagonal shape and on one end closest to the guard of the test model, it is visibly raised and you can peel it back a bit. However, if it comes undone, you can easily fix it with a strong adhesive. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $34.99.

TOOTHIER EDGES: Lansky’s Diamond Sharp Stick

The handle of Lansky’s 9-inch Diamond Sharp Stick is a dual-material, rubber overmold for both comfort and durability. Like most sharpening-steel handles, a full integral guard protects your hand from accidental cuts. A split ring affixed to the handle’s end provides for hanging the rod on a hook or nail.

The Sharp Stick has a hard plastic tube that fits over it and secures in place by an O-ring that slides down the rod close to the guard. You can remove the O-ring but you must leave it on to take advantage of the hard plastic tube to protect the sharpening rod surface when stored. The O-ring is positioned far down on the handle to not interfere with operation.

I discovered something interesting with the Sharp Stick. As with all the test models, the grit is fine but the Lansky seemed most aggressive in the cut and produces a toothier edge than the rest. In my opinion this is very good, as I prefer a toothier edge on my kitchen knives, though some do not.

The rubber gripping portion of the handle is textured well, and offers a great purchase with wet or dry hands. The guard is also robust in appearance, as some equate robustness with better quality. That’s not always the case but with this one it definitely is. Country of origin: China. MSRP: $33.99.

Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) DS2F

In my opinion, the Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) DS2F diamond sharpening steel is superior in several ways to the balance of the test rods. The fine-grit diamond-coated model has a red plastic/rubber tip. DMT uses a color-coded system to denote various grits, including red for fine. The tip also helps stabilize the rod on a flat surface. The DS2F ships in a nice, clear vinyl pouch that locks around the guard. The pouch is great for storage.

While the other test models have dual-molded handles that incorporate hard plastic and firm rubber for comfort, the DMT has a hard plastic one. However, don’t turn your nose up just yet. The handle tapers gradually toward the guard, which makes the entire grip fill your hand nicely. There are also five grooves on the tapered part that enhance a secure hold. The guard has four semi-circular cutouts to provide anti-roll qualities, which I really like. The DMT doesn’t roll at all when you put it down. A plastic shackle attached to the handle end for hanging also is color-coded to grit. The shackle can be removed if you desire. It’s creature comforts like these that make the difference between a good product and a great one.

The DMT is definitely a top performer. The 12-inch rod captures pretty much all sizes of kitchen knives. Of all the test models, I felt the DMT produced the finest edge, that is, the edge isn’t toothy or grabby, it’s just plain sharp. The D2SF leaves a nice, refined finish on the cutting edge.

One thing about the handle shape: Since it tapers toward the guard, it forces you to nestle your hand up against the guard when holding it. This stabilizes the sharpener in your hand. When you grip it farther away from the guard, the sharpener isn’t as stable—something to consider. If you prefer holding your sharpening rod, you might want to get the DMT for this very feature. This is just a top-notch, high-end sharpener. Country of origin: USA. MSRP: $53.59.

EZE-Lap Model G

The 8-inch EZE-Lap Model G is the shortest of the test models. The shorter rod allows for easy use as well as com pact storage inside a drawer. It comes in a fine grit to produce a nice working edge in a minimal amount of time. The large-diameter plastic handle has enough girth for a comfortable hold. The integral guard is very much like the DMT D2SF’s, with a non-round shape that helps curb rolling on a flat surface. Well done! An extra-large handle hole promotes hanging for storage.

EZE-Lap’s Model G round-profile diamond sharpening rod is only 8 inches long, which makes it the shortest rod evalu- ated, though that doesn’t mean it is any less effective. The shorter overall length stores in a drawer easily or in cramped quarters such as in an RV.

The thing about a shorter rod like the Model G is you must be quick on the draw when working on longer kitchen knives, such as 8-inch chef’s knives and up. Compared to 10- and 12-inch rods, you’re losing real estate to work from and must pull the blade across the length of the Model G quicker. For shorter blades, this should not be an issue. On the other hand, the smaller size is ideal for camping, traveling in an RV, etc.

The Model G ships in a stiff paper sleeve, which can be reused to protect the rod as well as other items stored near/by it. The sharpener felt very coarse to the touch out of the packaging. All diamond sharpeners do. As you use them they will smooth out, though this has no bearing on performance, and performance-wise the EZE-Lap does very well. Country of origin: USA. MSRP: $31.95.

Work Sharp Culinary M3 Sharpener

The Work Sharp Culinary M3 sharpener takes the basic diamond-coated steel rod sharpener and improves on its function by offering choices. The M3 comes with not one but two rods—coarse-grit steel with a diamond coating and a fine-grit ceramic rod. Both rods interchange with the included ergonomic handle and are secured in place by strong magnets.

The 8.25-inch steel rod tapers gradually from handle to tip. At the end of the rod is a rubber button, which helps stabilize the sharpener when the end is placed on a table or countertop and the handle is held with one hand. It sounds like a typical steel rod until you get to the handle.

Instead of the standard integral, flared guard is a pair of ramped surfaces that serve as angle guides. When you hold the sharpener upright, place the side of the blade on the rod and rest it against the ramped surface. Then, with the standard motion using a rod sharpener, travel down the rod, holding the blade at the preset angle. Bring the opposite side of the blade to the other side of the rod and repeat. The gripping part of the handle is firm-textured rubber, and a thumb divot on the end helps stabilize the sharpener in use.

A little “MicroForge” slot in one of the guides contains a small yet wide serrated wheel. After you get a sharp edge, remove the rod from the handle and place the end of the handle on the table, in similar fashion to how you were sharpening. Place the blade in the slot at the tip. With light pressure, push the blade through until the handle gets to the tang, then stop. The serrated wheel will crimp the edge slightly, forming tiny and evenly spaced micro serrations. The serrations act like bigger serrations found on other kitchen knives. Using the MicroForge feature is not mandatory, but it is designed as an additional function to help provide the longest-lasting edge possible.

The steel rod cuts fast to restore dull edges. It provides a working edge in a minimal amount of time. Follow up with the fine ceramic rod after the edge has been established to refine it further. The ceramic rod’s smooth and fluted sides give a choice of edge finishes: a bit more bite with the latter and a more polished edge with the former.

The M3 ships in a sturdy cardboard box, the sharpener parts store inside a tray, and the tray slides into the box. The steel rod has a protective plastic sleeve, too. It is the most comprehensive of the test lot. Country of origin: Parts sourced globally, U.S. assembled/calibrated. MSRP: $69.99.

HOW TO USE A ROD

No matter the brand or model, sharpening steels are used the same way. Most manufacturers recommend using one while standing at the kitchen counter or seated at a table.

Take the sharpening steel and place the tip on the table, held upright with the handle at the top. With one hand, grasp the handle firmly, keeping it perpendicular with the flat surface at all times. With the other hand, grasp the knife handle and place the blade at a 20-to-30 degree angle in relation to the sharpening steel. Place the blade as close to the guard as possible, set to start at the part of the blade closest to the tang. In one motion, move the blade down the length of the rod while at the same time draw the blade fully across the steel. When you near the flat surface you are working from, though without touching the surface, you should be at the blade tip.

Raise the blade to where you started from, switching the blade to the opposite side, then repeat the same stroke. Then, return to the side you started from, and repeat once again. Do an equal amount of strokes for both sides of the blade.

As you become more comfortable using the sharpening steel, you can forego the flat surface and hold the steel with one hand similar to how you would a large kitchen knife. With the other hand, place the blade on the rod at the recommended 20-to-30 degree angle and lightly push the blade across the rod, ending at the blade tip. I highly recommend you not proceed to this step until you are confident enough, because with this alternate method chances for not holding the angle correctly is greater.

Whatever method you use, remember to always use light strokes. There is no need to bear down on the blade with pressure. Let the rod do the work.

4 Carbon Cutters: Steel With An Old School Feel

Carbon steel knives continue to be among the top factory performers.

High-performance stainless steels—CPM S30V, S35VN, S90V and 20CV, along with CPM 154, M390 and CTS 204P, to name some— rule in many corners of today’s knife market. While such steels exhibit astonishing edge-holding power and the ability to go the distance without much maintenance, the tradeoff is they can be difficult to sharpen. With the ascendance of such “super steels” you might think carbon steels would be gone for good.

Nothing could be further from the truth. While carbon steels may not attract the attention they once did, that doesn’t mean they’re no less a viable option for hunting, camping and even tactical knives. Many still prefer carbon steels over the high-performance stainless ones, and the primary reason is ease of sharpening, especially in the field. While carbon steels require a bit more maintenance, such as a light coat of oil to prevent corrosion and staining, they can give premium stainless steels a run for the money. Another factor is the all-important lower cost of carbon steels.

 

SANDBOX STEEL: A.G. Russell Knives Sandbox Dagger

Photo from agrussell.com

The inspiration for the Sandbox Dagger from A.G. Russell Knives comes straight from the old Camillus Marine Raider Stiletto and legendary Fairbairn-Sykes dagger, both of World War II fame. BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member A.G. Russell’s intent was to recreate the effectiveness of the venerable dagger designs while boosting the durability of the blade, as the tapered, relatively thin blades were prone to break. Carefully studying the old combat knives, A.G. devised the Sandbox Dagger.

Most daggers fail with broken tips. The A.G. Russell Sandbox Dagger in DM1 carbon steel is redesigned to allow for more blade tip thickness. The knife survived this sideways snap-out treatment with no damage whatsoever.

Beginning with a wider blade that takes longer to taper, thus giving it more body, he discovered new ways of grinding that allowed more stock thickness to remain, enhancing lateral strength. Traditionally a weak spot for daggers, the point thickness is more considerable as well. Another A.G. idea was to offer a “varied edge angle.” Most of the blade would be sharpened at A.G.’s preferred angle of 15 degrees, but toward the tip it changes to a more obtuse angle to bolster point strength. Phil Gibbs, company design engineer, was in charge of torture testing prototypes.  One of the tests he successfully performed was driving the dagger through an AK-47 magazine, with absolutely no damage to the tip, and the edge remaining very sharp.

The Sandbox Dagger from A.G. Russell is a highly functional cutting tool. It sliced up cardboard just as well as any single-edge knife would. It is razor sharp out of the box.

The 6-inch blade is DM1 steel, named in honor of bladesmith/metallurgist Dan Maragni, who assisted in its development and heat treatment for A.G. Russell Knives. It is a modified version of the 0170-6C carbon steel the old Camillus used when it made the Becker Knife & Tool line. (Today, KA-BAR makes all BK&T knives.) DM1 can sustain hard use without edge deformation or chipping, yet remains easy to resharpen.

The ergonomic handle is green, rib-textured Rucarta. The rounded handle expands toward the tang to better fit your hand. Indentations on either side give your thumb a non-slip resting place for grip retention, as well as a reference point for blade indexing. The blade is razor sharp out of the box.  Manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): $375. 

 

A-R-RMY, SIR! Case Hambone

Photo source: knifecenter.com

Knifemaker Daniel Winkler and U.S. Army veteran Clint Romesha (page ??) designed the Case Hambone to be a “do-all” field knife for field dressing, batonning wood, preparing food and more. Hambone was the nickname of the legendary U.S. Army pack mule Hamilton T. Bone. Hambone was based at Fort Carson, Colorado, as part of the pack mule program and served from 1943-56, including two combat missions during World War II—the same base Romesha operated from during his military career. 

Is it tactical or outdoor? How about both? The Case Hambone is a heavy-duty fixed blade of 80CrV2 carbon steel that will serve either function very well. The flat-ground blade slices easily.

Hambone the knife embodies the hardworking spirit of Hambone the pack mule. The 80CrV2 carbon steel is tough and holds an edge. The trailing point/skinner blade is 4.75 inches with a full flat grind and generous belly that facilitate chores like slicing and chopping/batonning. Handle material options are black canvas Micarta®, curly maple and black textured rubber. The finger-grooved handle with a bird’s-beak butt and integral guard ensures a secure grip in most conditions.

The eight stars engraved on the handle spine memorialize Romesha’s eight teammates who gave their lives during the Battle of Kamdesh in Afghanistan (page ??). The exposed blade tang can be employed as a hammer or glass breaker. The felt-lined Kydex sheath promotes sure knife retention and easy deployment equally well. Rather than having a typical fold-over or sandwich construction, the sheath uses a Micarta spacer to separate its Kydex halves. The OD green Kydex features black overlay with a star laser cut into it to symbolize the Army’s colors and logo.

The eight stars on the blade spine of the Case/Winkler Hambone memorialize the eight men who were part ofArmy Staff Sgt. Clint Romesha’s Cavalry unit who perished during a 2009 battle with Afghan rebels. Along with Daniel Winkler, Romesha designed the Hambone.

The Hambone’s deep blade belly is great for cutting meats and vegetables. The blade is fairly thick up to the tip, which makes it strong for heavy use and abuse. The handle is quite comfortable, providing ample blade control at all times, even with wet hands. The Micarta material is an excellent choice for an all-around user.

The only downside might be the weight. Some may find the knife too heavy on a belt, but, then again, the weight is one of the contributing factors to its cutting power. MSRPs: $325.99 (black canvas Micarta), $333.99 (curly maple) and $342.99 (textured rubber).   

 

TACTICAL CLASSIC: Steel Will Barghest

The Steel Will Barghest has all the hallmarks of a great tactical folder. The test model’s modified clip-point blade of 3.5 inches is full-flat ground from D2 tool steel, a favorite among production companies and custom makers for its toughness and ease of sharpening.  The blade opens via a flipper or ambidextrous thumb studs, and the swedge grind adds a bit of attitude. The action is quick, smooth and precise, with the blade riding on a pair of phosphor bronze washers.

The Barghest and its D2 tool steel blade is the latest tactical folder from Steel Will. It comes in two sizes and two blade finishes, and features flipper opening as well as dual thumb studs. It’s a rugged EDC folder at a great MSRP ($84.99 and $89.99)

The handle is a study in the perfect tactical folder design well suited for prolonged use regardless of the elements. The  integral guard prevents your hand from slipping forward, and the handle gracefully curves and expands slightly at the midsection to fill your palm nicely without feeling too unwieldy.  The blade secures via a linerlock, and dual steel liners provide rigidity. Black G-10 scales feature a series of machined grooves that enhance your grip with or without gloves. A pronounced chamfer on the edges of the scales makes the Barghest feel very comfortable, eliminating any hot spots. A fold-over steel pocket clip carries the knife deep in a pocket. Steel Will also offers a second clip for lefties—just switch clips. The G-10 handle spacer sports large  traction notches, and is slightly oversized to make the notches stand out.

The Steel Will Barghest and its D2 blade packs the punch to get tough cutting jobs accomplished and still hold an edge very well.

The Barghest offers what I like in a tactical folder. The blade shape and size is ideal for many cutting tasks, not too small nor too large, and has plenty of bite to power through a variety of tough materials. D2 is a time-proven steel that withstands abuse yet is easy to maintain.

The only negative I see is the pocket clip.  Yes, it is a positive as well, but not everyone likes the deep-carry feature, as no part of the handle sticks above the pocket to grab onto. Hence, you must fish around a bit to grab the knife. Hey, you can’t please everyone! MSRPs: $84.99 (3.5-inch blade) and $89.99 (4-inch blade).

 

STOUT as it is SOLID: Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc

condortk.com

The Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc features a 5.5-inch drop-point blade of 1075 carbon steel mated to two-tone black-and-blue paper Micarta scales and a black phenolic bolster. The knife is a handful, a beast that can tackle any cutting task at camp or, in a pinch, use for combat. It is stout as it is solid. The satin-finished blade’s full flat grind is aces in cutting efficiency. A series of traction notches filed into the blade spine provide optimal positioning for applying downward pressure for tougher cutting tasks.

The Condor Tool & Knife Blue Havoc and its beastly blade of 1075 carbon steel can tackle most any camp cutting task.

The handle sports a generous palm swell that fills your grip comfortably, is non-slip and offers precise blade control. Micarta is an excellent choice for using knives because it is strong yet lightweight. It is impervious to most fluids and isn’t affected by weather changes, humidity, heat or most any external factor that would cause integrity issues. Plus, it comes in a myriad of hues to please the pickiest knife enthusiast. The dual-color Micarta® layers show through, adding an exciting visual texture, more so than any solid color Micarta can offer. Integral front and rear guards prevent unwanted hand movement in either direction, and the front guard enables you to choke up to exercise control for precise cutting. As big as the knife is, it’s important that it be able to tackle finer cutting as well, especially in a camp or survival scenario.

The Condor Tool & Knife Havoc is an edged tool to take on your next camping trip. Its droppoint blade and ergonomic handle are ideal for a variety of cutting tasks.

The Blue Havoc’s sheath materials are an unusual mix: molded Kydex and a leather belt loop. Most Kydex sheaths usually have either a Kydex belt loop or some sort of quick-release attachment, such as a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok. The reason Condor went with the leather belt loop on a Kydex sheath is to allow you to remount the belt loop in the event the sheath orientation must be reversed to accommodate left-hand/side-body carry. Simply remove/replace two screws to dismount/remount the loop. Also, the leather allows the entire sheath to move on your belt to a degree to prevent the knife from being caught up in bushes, branches, etc.

Condor’s catalog states the Blue Havoc can be used in either a tactical or outdoor setting, though due to its appearance, the knife is probably better suited for outdoor use. Moreover, the drop-point blade shape makes it a great camp utility knife for food prep or field dressing/skinning tasks. The 1075 carbon steel resharpens very well, which helps at the campsite. MSRP: $134.98.  

STILL RELEVANT

Carbon steel is alive and well at a time when super steels are all the rage. It remains the steel of choice of many hardcore knife users, not only for the lower cost but primarily for the ease of sharpening. It may require a bit more maintenance than stainless, but carbon steel is still relevant and here to stay.

 

How to Use a Knife Sharpening Rod

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No matter the brand or model, sharpening steels are used the same way. Most manufacturers recommend using one while standing at the kitchen counter or seated at a table.

The Set Up

Take the sharpening steel and place the tip on the table, held upright with the handle at the top.

With one hand, grasp the handle firmly, keeping it perpendicular with the flat surface at all times.

With the other hand, grasp the knife handle and place the blade at a 20-to-30 degree angle in relation to the sharpening steel. Place the blade as close to the guard as possible, set to start at the part of the blade closest to the tang.

Move the Blade

In one motion, move the blade down the length of the rod while at the same time draw the blade fully across the steel. When you near the flat surface you are working from, though without touching the surface, you should be at the blade tip.

Repeat

Raise the blade to where you started from, switching the blade to the opposite side, then repeat the same stroke. Then, return to the side you started from, and repeat once again. Do an equal amount of strokes for both sides of the blade.

Getting Better

As you become more comfortable using the sharpening steel, you can forego the flat surface and hold the steel with one hand similar to how you would a large kitchen knife. With the other hand, place the blade on the rod at the recommended 20-to-30 degree angle and lightly push the blade across the rod, ending at the blade tip.

I highly recommend you not proceed to this step until you are confident enough, because with this alternate method chances for not holding the angle correctly is greater.

Let the Rod Do the Work

Whatever method you use, remember to always use light strokes. There is no need to bear down on the blade with pressure. Let the rod do the work.

How Custom Knifemakers Adapted to COVID-19

Companies on the cutlery side seem to be weathering the COVID-19 era better than those in most other industries, in no small part due to online knife sales. BLADE promised to check on the custom side of things for you, and, though maybe not quite as well as their production brethren, the custom knifemakers we asked about it seem to be holding their own.

Already Practicing Social Distancing

Having employees work from home is one of the measures factory knife and other companies have taken to ensure long-range social distancing and to help control the spread of the virus.

Many custom makers, of course, work out of their home shops and have done so for decades, so they were a step ahead of the game in that regard from the outset.

Moreover, many makers take orders and sell their knives through their own websites, on social media, via email, and through advertising in knife magazines and elsewhere. As a result, not unlike their factory counterparts, they have experienced some success in that area, too. Purveyors who sell the makers’ knives are an added bonus as well.

Ironically, the early lockdown and also the downturn in another industry—travel—actually benefitted at least one knifemaker.

“Good For My Business”

“Honestly, COVID has been real good for my business.At the beginning when everything was closed, we suddenly had a bunch of free weekends when travel all got canceled,” noted Jason Fry.“I used that time to do a lot of knife work.In the first three months of COVID, I have one customer that bought four of the six knivesI put out for sale.Product has continued to move well, even at the $500+ price points.”

Another boost to custom knife sales early on was the federal stimulus and unemployment checks.

“Our sales went up a whole lot when the stimulus checks were sent out and people on unemployment were getting that extra $600 a week,” noted Linda Hibben, wife of BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Gil Hibben. 

Linda added that while things had slowed down a bit in late summer, Gil continued to accept orders.

“Believe it or not, the Rambo III bowie and machete are still selling,” she enthused. (Along with the third Rambo movie, the Rambo III bowie debuted in 1988.) “We have had several different bowie orders and combat-type knife orders recently.”

“Orders Are Down Overall”

ABS master smith and BLADE contributor Wally Hayes indicated he was still taking orders via email, messenger, Instagram and Facebook, but had “lost a bunch” also.

“I would say orders are down overall,” he stated. Helping take up the slack for Wally are the damascus watch dials he builds for a watchmaker in Oslo, Norway.

Supplies Still Plentiful

As for having enough supplies to fill knife orders, maker George Brackett said he had everything he needed to make about 70 forged knives, with 32 orders “in the pipeline.” After he gets the go-ahead from his doctors following some recent surgery, he’s going to start making knives again.

Fry indicated he’s experienced no real issues with supplies yet, and intends to order bulk every few months.

“I haven’t tried ordering steel lately,” he added, “but belts, etc., haven’t been a problem.”
On the down side have been the cancellations of a number of knife shows, including BLADE Show 2020, the latter a place where many makers would have sold a significant number of knives and taken a large number of orders. (BLADE Show 2021 is set for June 4-6 at the Cobb Galleria Centre in Atlanta.)

If it weren’t for the fact that other knife shows aren’t the go-to venues they once were due to online sales and other factors, such makers no doubt would be hurting more than they are now.

Contracts Still In Place

Another bonus for makers such as Gil is the collaboration agreements they have entered into with factory knife companies. In fact, his long-time contract with United Cutlery is going great knives, including a knife design in the works celebrating his upcoming 65th anniversary as a knifemaker in 2022.

“We have new designs coming out with United on a regular basis,” Linda wrote, “so all is good!”

Intermediate Forging: Blending the Old with the New

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BY LIN RHEA ABS MASTER SMITH
Blending the old with the new sometimes can yield notable results.
It’s been said there’s nothing new under the sun. I might add that new ideas in knifemaking are rare. I do not claim the technique I am about to share is new because that could start the story off on the wrong foot. On the other hand, I will say I have not seen it done in the context of making knife parts. Comparisons can be drawn to particular cultural techniques, and I encourage that in the name of inspiration. Speaking of, that will be the purpose of this discussion—inspiration. I have been fortunate to have had several sources of inspiration, not the least of which is my time and training in historic blacksmithing. One of the guiding principles of the early blacksmith was practicality. You will end up being the judge as to whether or not this technique is practical or not for your purposes. I will try to show how blending the old with the new sometimes can yield unique results that can be beautiful as well as inspiring.  I call the technique intermediate forging. I chose the name to imply it involves a mixture of old and new techniques within the same process in order to accomplish the task. It can involve forging—the old—as well as the new via the use of modern tools such as grinders, saws, etc. The particular order of the use of the techniques is at your discretion as well. In other words, you may forge, then saw/grind, then forge more before, perhaps, grinding again and finishing or polishing.  Intermediate forging can be used on blades or integral parts of blades. This may be where it is easiest to see and accept the possibility of enlisting the technique. I’m sure you may have seen the need to return to the forge to refine or make corrections in order to improve or actually save a project. It’s often viewed as a concession or acknowledgment of defeat if you must return to the forge for corrections. I now present to you the possibility of pushing aside the puristic view and actually using the intermediate forging technique as part of some projects, and opening up new combinations of techniques for new looks. The HANDLE SPACERS One way in particular I have made changes in the look of my knives by intermediate forging is on the handle spacers. The accompanying photos and descriptions pertain to how I set up and mix the techniques of old and new to arrive at a unique process with almost endless possibilities. I show the progression of one project along with a finished photo, and then some other examples of variations of the technique. I use stainless steel for the spacer, though mild steel or other forgeable materials would work as well. I start with three layers, leaving the middle layer proud by a chosen margin according to my plan. Note: I often “lean” the guard and spacer forward. This creates the need to provide a fake middle spacer that will be discarded after the outside spacers have their inclination established. I then insert the actual middle spacer and leave it proud for the subsequent steps. 
The author used his intermediate forging process to make the handle spacer for his S-guard bowie. (Whetstone Studio image)
YOU be THE JUDGE As noted, you must be the judge as to whether intermediate forging is for you. I’ve found that the results are worth the extra effort it takes to accomplish my intent. Also, while steps in this process are examples of workmanship of risk*, the risk is usually limited to an individual part of and not the whole knife. I’ve also found that risk itself adds intrigue to the project, and intrigue attracts the curious. Of course, as with a movie, risk and intrigue are good when the ending can be written with a predictable result. Hence, intermediate forging also needs to have predictable results. I can say that it certainly has for me. *Workmanship of risk refers to a principle found in the book, The Nature and Art of Workmanship, by David Pye. For more information, contact Lin Rhea, Dept. BL11, 413 Grant 291020, Prattsville, AR 72129 870-942-6419 [email protected], rheaknives.com.

Tony Bose, BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame® Inductee, Passes Away

Tony Bose, the man perhaps most responsible for the rebirth of the slip joint/pocketknife genre in today’s knives, BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall Of Fame® member, loving husband and father, and friends to scores in the knife industry, passed away Sunday, Nov. 22, 2020.

A Shock to the Knife Community

Reactions poured in from the knife community.

“Heartbreaking news!” knifemaker Bill Ruple noted on his Facebook page. “Tony was my hero in the knife community!! He broke ground for all of us in the slip joint community!!”

Added knifemaker Bobby Branton, “Through his knowledge and willingness to share with others, [Tony] has played a huge part in keeping the custom slip joint movement alive. His contributions and work with Case knives have made his designs affordable to collectors around the world.”

Chimed in knifemaker Luke Swenson, “We lost a fine knifemaker and a better person and friend.”

A Love Of Traditional Pocketknives

Bose on Handcrafted America.
Tony Bose championed slipjoint knives and other traditional styles. (Kerry Hampton image)

Things didn’t come easy for Bose from the get go. Born in 1946, he lost his right eye at 6.

“Most of his life has been affected one way or another by that loss, but perhaps it was the defining moment in steering his career in the direction of self-employment and self-discovery,” Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame member Ken Onion said in his speech inducting Tony into the Cutlery Hall Of Fame in 2019. Tony’s father also was disabled, so Tony sought work to help his family make ends meet. His disability made finding employment difficult, especially at a time when employers were reluctant to hire the disabled.

One of the things that helped Bose persevere was his affection for slip joints.

“He’s had a deep love for traditional pocketknives for as long as he can remember. He always had one, mostly something worn out or someone gave him,” Onion observed.

In high school Bose made money sharpening knives until he saved up enough to buy a brand new Case knife. Eventually he started making fixed blades in his spare time.

“His focus was to acquire the necessary equipment to build folding knives, and that he did,” Onion continued.

In 1989, Bose became a full-time maker.

“His goal was to make traditional folding knives and improve upon them using the best materials he could find, and to perfect the craft,” Onion said.

Bose was self-taught and, due to the difficulty he encountered in finding information on making knives, he vowed to share his knowledge with other makers to keep the interest alive.

Gradually, Tony began to establish himself, making slip joints and selling them at local knife shows. He began winning honors for his knives at various events, including Best Folder awards at the 1994 East Coast Custom Knife Show and, in 1995, at the world’s largest and most important knife event: the BLADE Show in Atlanta.

Bose’s Career Takes Off

The Bose/Case collaboration will be remembered as one of the most successful in modern knives. (Case photo)

The turning point in Bose’s career came in 1999 when, at the request of Mark Zalesky, now editor of Knife Magazine, Ed Jessup of Case called to see if Bose would be interested in working with Case. Tony agreed and the Case/Bose collaborations went on to transform an industry.

Tony and Case did not limit their working agreement to knife collaborations only. Tony became a crowd favorite at Case consumer events and swap meets nationwide, conducting knifemaking seminars, meet and greets, and otherwise serving as an ambassador for all things Case.

It was a relationship beneficial to both parties and the entire industry in more ways than one. In the case of Case, not only did it swell company coffers, it also improved Case knives—no small feat for one of the world’s leading names in cutlery.

In the process of combining on some of the world’s best slip-joint collaborations, Tony and Case refocused attention on slip joints in general. Add the impeccable custom slip joints that Tony continued to make, and custom knife aficionados bought more of them. That influence included other custom makers as well, and more of them switched from making other knife genres to building slip joints.

A Legacy of Teaching and Inspiration

Almost as legendary as his knives is Tony’s legacy of teaching anyone who wanted to know how to make knives.

“Tony takes the time to be sure students understand what he’s trying to teach,” Onion said in 2019. “He’s improved the level of quality in a big way at Case and has taught them to do the impossible. He consistently strives for perfection. He’s very inspirational and has been a muse to the company. He’s respected and loved by everyone.”

Tony Bose poses with his plaque during BLADE Show 2019 after being inducted into the BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame alongside Hall of Fame Member Ken Onion (left) and family. 

One of the most accomplished of all of Tony’s students is his son, Reese. The younger Bose has become so adept at making slip joints that he is considered among the world’s best.

Concluded Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Dan Delavan, “Tony Bose is another maker who made what he liked, slip joints, when there was not much demand, and then the market took off. His work is still the best and the most sought after.”

For more on Tony Bose, visit boseknives.com.

Three Blades with an East Asian Design Flair

Three blades with an Eastern design flair are zesty cutters

For many decades Asian knives, tools and swords languished in the cutlery industry, remembered most for blades brought back by U.S. service personnel who fought in the Pacific during World War II. Times have certainly changed, thanks in no small part to a highly accomplished custom knifemaker named Bob Lum.

Of Asian descent, Lum introduced the custom knife world to his “American” version of the Japanese tanto and leaf-shaped blades circa 1980. Through the balance of the ’80s, and later in the ’90s, Lum’s tanto design was rabidly embraced by a budding modern tactical knife crowd. The tanto has been a mainstay ever since. Other Asian blade styles, such as the bolo and kukri, have been embraced as well. My team and I look at three modern takes on the “Asian Equation” here and put these intriguing cutters through the paces.

CHAMP CHOPPER: Spyderco Lum Darn Dao

source: knifecenter.com

Designed by Lum before he passed away way too early in 2007, the Spyderco Lum Darn Dao is a full-tang Chinese dao-style knife. Overall length: 16.27 inches. The 10.63-inch blade is CPM 154 stainless steel with a flared tip and a swedge grind terminating at the clip on the spine. The 5.64-inch handle has a flared base and the black G-10 scales are ample, fully sculpted and highly polished. A handcrafted dark brown leather sheath with a thumb-break retention loop comes standard. Weight (minus the sheath): 17.89 ounces. MSRP: $649.95. This is a limited edition of one production run only.

The first thing we noticed about the Lum Darn Dao is that it’s not as cumbersome as it initially looks, and then we realized it’s just shy of 18 ounces, which is not that unwieldy as large knives go. The handle is an exercise in comfort—well sculpted all the way around.

The Lum Darn Dao has a deep V-grind, making it an excellent slicer. Sisal rope was a piece of cake. Full grinds like that of the Darn Dao slice and chop well, as the edge doesn’t encounter the hump of a ricasso when it goes about its work.

One inch seemed to be the Darn Dao’s magic number. Employing a basic hammer grip, we used the blade to cut through 1-inch sisal rope like it was butter. When we challenged it on an old phone book (remember those?) with diagonal full-force chops, it repeatedly sunk in an inch deep. For long-term use we’d opt for a rougher finish or texture on the G-10 grip, but all in all the Darn Dao chopped like a champ. 

Specs: SPYDERCO LUM DARN DAO
Blade length: 10.63 inches
Blade steel: CPM 154 stainless
Handle length: 5.64 inches
Handle material: Sculpted G-10
Sheath: Leather belt carry
Weight: 17.89 ounces
Overall length: 16.27 inches
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $649.95

SHORT, WIDE HYBRID: SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout

SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout is a mid-size folder 7.375 inches open and 4.3 inches closed. Designed by custom knifemaker Kiku Matsuda of Japan, the 3-inch black-coated blade of CTS-XHP stainless steel is a hybrid of the tanto style with some interesting twists. The main grind is recurved and there is a swedge grind on the spine that ends in a harpoon dip. The blade opens via a kidney-shaped hole in the blade or by an optional gimped flipper. The black handle has sculpted G-10 scales over black stainless steel liners, and SOG’s XR pull-down slide release unlocks the blade. On the rear is a blade-tip-up pocket clip. Weight: 5.19 ounces. MSRP: $189.95.

 

SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout has a hybrid version of the American tanto blade. The recurved portion of the main grind does a great job trapping leather and rope, and the tip finishes the job as it is pulled through.

The Kiku XR Blackout’s blade is shorter and wider than the traditional tanto pattern. We tested it first on 1.5-inch-wide harness leather, executing straight cuts and pull-throughs. The modified edge cut very well, though we almost ran out of blade while pulling upward through the leather strip.

Rope was much easier. The recurve of the blade trapped the rope, and the secondary grind from the dividing line—or yokoke—to the tip finished the job. It should be noted not all tantos have a yokoke; some simply sweep through upward to the tip. The cuts on 3/8-inch rappelling rope were clean as a whistle, while the edge tended to shred thicker 1-inch sisal. The handle was plenty comfortable and added to our cutting pleasure.

SPECS: SOG KIKU XR BLACKOUT
Blade length: 3 inches
Blade steel: CTS XHP stainless
Blade type: Hybrid American tanto
Handle material: Sculpted G-10
Special features: Multiple blade grinds
Carry: Pocket clip, blade tip upWeight: 5.19 ounces
Closed length: 4.375 inches
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $210.95

2-HAND HOSS: The TOPS CUMA Kage

photo source: knifecenter.com

The TOPS CUMA Kage is a tour de force by martial arts guru Sijo Wayson Johnny Tsai. Overall length: 23.75 inches. The 15.5-inch blade of 1095 high carbon steel sports TOPS’ Black Traction Coating. The lengthy handle is 8.25 inches with Micarta scales sized for two-handed delivery. The blade is a hybrid straight sword pattern blended with 7 inches of kukri bulge at the tip to give it a bit of utility to go with its, ahem, badassery. It includes a full-length black Kydex sheath with a dangler/attachment ring. Weight: 31.5 ounces. MSRP: $360.

Using one hand or two, the author found the CUMA Kage cut brush equally well. However, as you might expect, you can take on much heavier tasks with it by using both hands.

To test the CUMA Kage for its utility billing, we took it outside for brush-clearing duty. We’ve always admired the kukri and have cleared an acre or two over the years with one, so this long send-up of the chopper intrigued me. We found out quickly we could use the CUMA Kage with one hand or two, which gives it a big leg up on its smaller cousin. The Micarta handle is well filled out and plenty grippy. One-handed we were able to easily whack through half-inch-thick green hardwood stalks and branches. Two-handed we sliced through stalks three-quarter of an inch with ease, and 1 inch as long as we had clearance to pull back for a full stroke. Though not the CUMA Kage’s original intent, it does have formidable utility.

 

Specs: TOPS CUMA KAGE
Blade length: 15.5 inches
Blade material: 1095 carbon steel
Blade finish: Black Traction Coating
Handle length: 8.25 inches
Handle material: Micarta
Special features: Kukri blade tip 
Sheath: Kydex w/leather dangler
Weight: 31.5 ounces
Overall length: 23.75 inches
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $360

MELONIOUS ASSAULT

After testing the blades on a variety of fare, just for fun we took to the backyard to let them each have a go at a cantaloupe. Leading off with a reverse grip on the SOG Kiku XR, we stabbed the forlorn melon to the hilt. As stubby a version of the tanto as the Kiku XR’s blade may be, the cantaloupe’s pithy skin gave into the knife’s wishes quite easily.

Next up the TOPS CUMA Kage tried the task of halving the cantaloupe in one fell swoop, which we captured in burst mode on my neighbor’s IPhone. Mission accomplished. Finally, we used the Lum Darn Dao to “prepare the meal” by using the blade in quick, rapid-fire chops. The sword’s deep V-grind—not unlike that of a chef’s knife—performed admirably.

Like an oversized chef’s knife, the Lum Darn Dao deftly whacked the cantaloupe into chunks with speed and style.

BEASTS of the EAST

While we often think of knives and swords of an Asian design in the context of combat and martial arts, it’s easy to forget that many Eastern blades were used for everyday utility as well. The tanto was an everyday carry by the Samurai class in Japan, and men and women alike carried a smaller version, the kaiken, aka kwaiken. The chisel grind was not typical on tantos as we see on some of them today, but on knives for culinary purposes. The Japanese kiridashi, which is rapidly gaining a toehold in the cutlery world, was also chisel ground and used for wood carving and marking.

The wicked Indian/Nepalese Kukri was employed in combat, but is primarily a tool for clearing land and is used widely for bush whacking today. Even the Indonesian karambit was considered a working knife by its users. If nothing else, the distinctiveness of Asian cutlery design has added richly to our knowledge base of cutlery and given us a plethora of modern-day knives to explore.

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