We collected a group of custom creations that showcase the leaps in synthetic handles.
When you think synthetic handle materials, factory knives probably come to mind. However, synthetics play a larger role in custom knives all the time. Synthetic handles don’t swell or crack from the elements like some natural materials and are outstanding for use. As reflected by the pieces on this and the facing page, they look pretty good, too.
Darriel Caston Ultem
Ultem comprises the grip of Darriel Caston’s fixed utility model in CPM S35VN stainless steel. Blade and overall lengths: 4 and 9 inches. Sheath: Kydex. (SharpByCoop image)
Michael Jarvis Pocket Bowie XL
A G-10 coffin handle steers the AEB-L stainless blade of the Pocket Bowie XL by Michael Jarvis. (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Dustin Driver WISC
Dustin Driver opts for titanium for the handle and frame of his WISC folder. The 3.5-inch blade is hollow-ground CPM MagnaCut stainless steel. Closed length: 4.5 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Kirby Lambert Phoenix
Kirby Lambert’s Phoenix folder sports a handle of Westinghouse Ivorite paper Micarta® with 6Al/4V titanium liners and a 3.25-inch blade of hollow-ground Reptilian damascus by Vegas Forge. Bolster: Timascus™. Closed length: 4.25 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Maverick Murdock Dress Slip Joint
A handle of black paper Micarta® with straight twist damascus bolsters over a brass frame house a 3-inch blade of CPM 154 stainless on ABS apprentice smith Maverick Murdock’s dress slip joint. Hardware: titanium. Closed length: 4 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
Harold Parsons Skinner
Green Micarta® and G-10 liners highlight the handle of a skinner in 440C stainless steel by Harold Parsons, who also engraved the bolster. Blade and overall lengths: 4.25 and 9 inches. (Jocelyn Frasier image)
Erik Fritz Slip Joint
ABS journeyman smith Erik Fritz chose burlap Micarta® with 416 stainless steel liners and bolsters for what for him is a new direction: a slip joint. The 2.75-inch blade is flat-ground CPM 154 stainless. Closed length: 3.75 inches. His price for a similar knife: $500. (Jocelyn Frasier image)
The Hawkbill Is An Excellent Multi-Purpose Blade, Great For Cutting, Carving And More.
Of all the blade styles at the modern aficionado’s disposal, the hawkbill may be one of the most peculiar.
As its name suggests, the blade is reminiscent of a raptor’s appendage, namely it’s beak. The point curves around, in most cases to a nearly 90-degree angle from the back, creating a hook shape. Overall, pretty dang cool. But it raises the question, exactly what the heck is it good for and why does it look this particular way?
In this article, we’ll delve into the origins, usage and modern iteration of this blade and what the heck it’s actually good for. Along the way, we’ll also perhaps help you pick out the best hawkbill blade for your needs.
Origin Of The Hawkbill
Many blade styles are rooted in history or evolved from another type of knife. The hawkbill, however, doesn’t have the clearest provenance.
The blade style is widely believed to have started as a farming and outdoor tool, an evolved version of the pruning hook. Somewhere along the line some industrious maker most likely figured a pocket sickle might prove right handy.
Likely it did for a classy vintner out among the grapes who did not want to slum it by asking for the help’s pruning hook. Heaven forbid. But as the greater part of humanity has broken free from its agrarian roots the utility of the hawksbill has expanded.
Modern Uses Of The Hawkbill Blade
True enough, rose growers and avocado ranchers likely still find the hawksbill handy. But the quirky style of knife has found a place for those not tilling their living from the soil.
Utility
Today, the hawkbill is best known for its utility role, prized by electricians, roofers, floorers and other craftsmen. The hook shape of blade helps it excel at certain tasks a straight blade might struggle. A few of the obvious are cutting carpet or shingles without scoring the unlaying material. Stripping wire is another area it earns an “A”.
Its curved tip also prevents it from being a hazard to its user in precarious positions—say crammed in a crawlspace or dangling on a rafter—where a clip point or the like might prove a bit pokey.
Carving
While not generally the go-to whittling or carving knife, the hawkbill earns its keep in this arena. For those who strictly practice this craft with knives, the style of blade is particularly good a removing large pieces of material at the begining of a project.
Tactical
Well… there are certainly companies out there selling their version of hawkbill knives with this in mind. Though, with healthy supply of DLC anything can be tactical—including a paring knife.
Given the vagaries of the word “tactical,” it’s difficult to claim it doesn’t fill this role. And certainly, there’s probably been more than one farmworker who’s thrown their hawkbill—or pruning hook—in his back pocket as Friday-night-on-the-town insurance. For the average Joe, however, it might not prove a prime choice in this role.
Unless specially trained, the hawkbill—like the karambit—is not the easiest blade to wield as a self-defense option. Funny thing is, many of the tactical “hawkbills” have nearly lost their defining feature—a truly hooked point. Some might argue, they are hawkbills in name only.
On the other hand, in more specialized “tactical” situations this style of blade could have chops. What comes to mind here is perhaps situations involving ropes—maybe nautical or mountaineering. The idea here is cordage could be cut one-handed in a switch, using the hawkbill to both hook and cut. A similar point on this, some law officers have favored a modified hawkbill given it works well to cut a motorist out of their seatbelt in an accident, without causing injury.
Those wed to the idea of a EDC Hawkbill, Spyderco has among the most time-tested renditions. The Byrd’s modified hawkbill blade lends itself to aggressive cutting tasks and its hollow-ground serrated edge makes mincemeat of anything its pulled against. Yet, there is enough of a tip available to puncture or pry, if the situation calls for it.
Like everything that rolls out of the Golden, Colo., concern, the Byrd is ruggedly made—constructed with a chrome-moly steel blade and fiber-reinforced handle. Its tear-drop shaped thumb hole gets the knife into the fray quickly and its four-position clip allows you to keep it at hand.
Of all the hawkbills, the Griffin is among the most EDC-friendly. Vosteed pars back the hook on the blade massively, making something at first blush look like an oversized sheep’s foot. But at closer inspection, the edge has a very slight obliqueness to it, so the tip curves in as you’d expect in a hawkbill. The baby is great at tip cuts, slicing, and stripping—about anything you’d expect out of a curved blade. But, it also can pierce straight on, much like a more conventional blade profile.
The knife is a production version of R.S. Knifeworks’ custom knife. It shows in some of the well-thought-out points of design. Chief among these is the handle that naturally follows the curvature of the palm and features an attractive and durable G10 scale. Another point I like is the compound grind on the blade, with more material at the heel for more rugged cutting tasks. The knife is a liner lock, with a clip (tip-up carry) and multiple deployment options—thumb hole, front flipper and back flipper. The only complaint I have is the clip isn’t reversible, but other than that the knife really hits the mark.
It’s difficult not to love the classic look of this hawkbill—one of the perks of Opinel. While I don’t use the knife mainly for garden chores, the French cutler has aimed the folder at that. The company calls it a pruner, and after testing it on a few wild rose saplings, it more than fills this role. However, with a sharp tip and a good edge, the No. 8 Hawkbill is adept in many other tasks. One of my preferred uses is as a fishing knife and believe it or not it guts your catch in the blink of an eye.
Nice point on this model, Opinel uses stainless steel in the blade (12C27), so if you take it into wet conditions you don’t have to fret about the blade tarnishing. It also keeps a nice edge, albeit one you’ll have to touch up now and again—especially if you use it in its pruning role. The knife’s wooden handle can lose its finish over time and retain moisture. Pro tip, have one this long and use it in wet conditions, you can sand down the handle and oil it to keep it safe. The only real bone I have to pick with the No. 8—away from yard chores—is the handle; it flares back like a traditional pruner, which isn’t always great for other tasks.
Perhaps the perfect handyman’s helper, this little hawkbill is designed to always be at hand. I think that’s the beauty of what Bear & Sons has created here, a right-sized utility knife. Personally, it’s a little small for my tastes as a primary knife and it’s a folder—which doesn’t make it quite as handy, it works great as a secondary cutting tool. I like the idea of this and plenty of folks who make their living with their hands back me up on the concept.You drop your main knife or leave it in your toolbox at another area of the work site, well, the Bear & Sons knife gives you a backup. Using it to help me rewire some outlets, the high-carbon stainless steel blade made quick work stripping. And while wasn’t reflooring, I did have carpet scraps around, of which the blade made mincemeat.
A big asset in both tasks is the hawkbill’s handle-to-blade ratio. The handle is an inch longer than the 2.75-inch blade, which gave me supreme control over the knife and the ability to choke up on the blade when required. To boot, Bear & Sons includes a large bail loop allowing you to tether it to your person or at the very least retrieve it from your pocket quickly. The only nit I had to pick is it’s a slipjoint with a nail nick opener. Most of the time this won’t prove an issue, but there are jobs where one-handed opening is a godsend.
I like this knife for something different in pocket carry. As Victorinox makes apparent, it again pegs this hawkbill as a pruner and it’s just about perfect for the weekend garden warrior. But this slim, light and small slipjoint makes the cut as an EDC option with a twist. A very straightforward design, the knife is elegant in its simplicity and has a very functional blade. The hook is enough for its designed purpose of pruning limbs, yet it’s angled just right to make it a near-perfect box cutter. At just 4 inches folded, with a 2-inch blade, it could be a warehouse worker’s—or anyone who has to break down cardboard on the regular—best friend.
Blue-collar tasks aside, like all Swiss Army Knives, it’s gentlemanly enough to handle more refined tasks—such as removing the foil from a wine bottle. It also has a nice section of straight edge to it, so it can accomplish pull-through cuts adeptly. Again, a nail nick opener cuts some of the knife’s utility, since it requires two hands to get into the fray.
This lockback knife from Klein Tools shows what the hawkbill is capable of as a utility tool. It easily opens one-handed thanks to a thumb stud and the stainless blade holds a mighty edge. It’s capable of being a do-everything tool on the job site or an excellent utility knife around the house. It’s made with longevity in mind, with Klein utilizing AUS8 stainless steel in the blade, and the impact-resistant nylon resin handle can stand up to the beating of being a work tool. The low-carry pocket/belt clip lets you carry the knife with ease and in a way that best suits you.
Schrade offers excellent knives and the company’s hawkbill folder is no exception. With a rustic, rugged look, the 16 UH, which stands for Uncle Henry, is designed to prune shrubs and cut through wood with ease. Its staglon synthetic handle gives the knife a natural look that you wouldn’t get with G-10, aluminum or other handle materials. The stainless steel blade makes quick work of a variety of woods, and the 3-inch blade is big enough for longer cutting strokes and small enough for precise, finite work. At under $40, it’s well-priced. This is a knife that most any woodworker would want to have.
Veteran collectors discuss what to look for in a top knifemaker.
When it comes to spending your hard-earned dollar, knowing what to look for in a knifemaker provides a perspective that can’t be achieved any other way. The knife itself offers a real, tangible opportunity to assess the workmanship, and a dialogue with the maker—or at least some knowledge of his or her career and standing in the knife community at large—allows for informed decision-making.
“The main thing I look for in a knifemaker is someone with an original design aesthetic,” observed longtime collector Jim Berkenfield. “I always tell up-and-coming makers that they want to create something that can be immediately identified as theirs if it is sitting on a table in the middle of 100 other knives.”
Meanwhile, being mentored by a leading maker is not something Jim looks for in a maker.
“I always tell up-and-coming makers that they want to create something that can be immediately identified as theirs if it is sitting on a table in the middle of 100 other knives,” collector Jim Berkenfield advised. Veteran maker Bertie Rietveld’s Makiti folder in composite dragonskin damascus and gold inlay meets that standard and then some. Closed length: 5 inches. (SharpByCoop image)
“I don’t necessarily think a maker needs to have some well-known mentor or instructor,” he opined. “These days, savvy and creative people can access all the information they need via social media or the internet to get them started down the road to knifemaking.”
The first impression is key to developing any relationship, and finding a maker with his or her own creative voice is an essential component for many.
“Firstly, and most obvious, I have to be drawn to the maker’s work, assuming I don’t really have any previous interaction with the maker,” collector Chris Schluter said. “I think these days social media is certainly an easy and quick way to get some information. There are countless knife groups on Facebook, for example. One could ask in these groups if anyone has had experience with a certain maker or knives. Of course, doing this in person at a show is an option as well.”
Personal Interaction With Knifemakers
Many think it very important for a new maker to attend knife shows. According to collector Chris Schluter, “A show is a great opportunity to get feedback on your knives and also check out other knives and speak to other makers for tips and inspiration.” Chris Losacco (right) of Elemental Forge shows one of his damascus fixed blades to customers at last year’s BLADE Show West.
Larry Hirsch, a veteran collector of Lloyd Hale’s work and that of other classic custom makers, sees the value in social media but also understands the benefits of personal interaction across the table at a show.
“I think it’s important for makers to attend knife shows,” he commented. “Meeting people, talking about their work, hobbies, family, ideas, networking and making friends is all part of a successful business. I’ve bought knives from makers that I’ve met at shows and become friends with. I’ve sold off knives from makers that were rude to me at shows.”
Consequently, there is more than just an exchange of cash for steel in the building of a mutually beneficial relationship between maker and customer. Even though it may sometimes be difficult for a maker to attend a show, there are still opportunities to interact.
“I don’t think it’s mandatory for makers to attend shows because knife shows are expensive,” Berkenfield said. “For new knifemakers in particular there is no guarantee that they’ll even sell anything. When a maker is exhibiting at a show, yes, I think it’s important that he engages with people as they walk by—without being pushy. I think the biggest reason knifemakers should try to attend shows is to gain inspiration from other work in the room, acquire materials, and just make some contacts in the industry.”
Larry Hirsch is an experienced collector of the knives of Lloyd Hale. Larry indicated before placing a custom order, ask the maker about the things that are important to you and be sure you get the answers you want. The example of Lloyd’s work is a spectacular sub-hilt in gold-lip and white mother-of-pearl, abalone and 440C stainless steel. (image of Larry Hirsch and Lloyd Hale courtesy of Hirsch; SharpByCoop knife image)
It’s entirely possible that young makers seeking to establish themselves could complement their use of social media such as Instagram with regular visits to shows. Visibility is a key in promoting a knifemaking career.
“It’s very important for a newer unknown knifemaker to attend shows,” Schluter advised. “A show is a great opportunity to get feedback on your knives and also check out other knives and speak to other makers for tips and inspiration. I think that this is probably best done in conjunction with a social media presence so any customers or followers know where they can handle some knives ‘live.’”
SPECIAL ORDERS When a potential buyer wants a special order or the maker has a waiting list, it makes sense to weigh the dynamics of the situation, including whether the maker takes custom orders and whether he or she requires a deposit.
Schluter remarked, “Many say that a true custom knife is a knife made to a customer’s specifications with specific materials. Many makers will do this, of course. However, many makers, especially very ‘in-demand’ ones, will just make what they want and it will sell. And customers will be happy to get anything from that maker. As far as waiting lists and order books go, it’s really up to the maker and not the customer. Someone told me once long ago, ‘There’s real time and there’s knifemaker time.’”
“I think the biggest reason knifemakers should try to attend shows is to gain inspiration from other work in the room, acquire materials and just make some contacts in the industry,” collector Jim Berkenfield said. ABS master smith Kyle Royer (left) and BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Steve Schwarzer (right) admire the work of an exhibitor at a past BLADE Show. (Whetstone Studio image)
“If a maker says six months, don’t be surprised if it’s a lot longer,” Chris cautioned. “Many makers who are popular simply don’t take orders anymore, though it never hurts to ask nicely even though they state this. Others who do take orders will regularly have wait times in excess of a year. It’s not unheard of to wait several years! I generally don’t like deposits or paying in advance. A small deposit as a sign of good faith or for special materials is not out of the question, though.”
Hirsch doesn’t see a willingness to take custom orders as critical, but he does emphasize the need to manage expectations.
“I have talked to many knifemakers about this, and the ones that don’t take orders have valid reasons for not taking orders,” he explained. “I’ve had the pleasure of working with several knifemakers that do take custom orders and enjoyed the knives that they made for me. Before you ever place an order, you need to ask the maker about the things that are important to you and receive the answers that you want.
“The timeframe for receiving your knife should be reasonable based on the maker’s backlog,” Larry added. “I suggest that if you don’t have the patience to wait longer than expected, don’t custom order a knife. It almost always takes longer than promised or expected.
As noted collector Jim Berkenfield, deposits typically are not required on custom orders, though if the build has expensive materials such as mammoth ivory, he will often offer to pay for it in advance—or even provide the material himself. Schuyler Lovestrand’s curvaceous sub-hilt features a handle of mammoth ivory rich in golds and dark greens. (SharpByCoop image)
“Deciding on placing a deposit is a very personal decision. Sometimes everything goes perfectly and you’re happy about your decision. Sometimes life, sickness or death prevent a maker from starting or completing your project, and your deposit is lost. When you deal with an individual, it’s not like a factory. There’s no one to take over when the knifemaker is sick or gone, and there’s no company to call to complain or ask for a refund.”
Berkenfield says that depending on the knifemaker it isn’t uncommon to wait two years for a custom knife to be delivered, particularly if the maker is well known and has a following.
“When you’re collecting knives, you need to play the long game in terms of acquiring a piece from a specific maker,” he commented. “Typically, deposits are not required, although if the build has certain expensive materials, for example, mammoth ivory, I will often offer to pay for that in advance or even to provide it myself.”
Questions To Ask
A prospective buyer should not be afraid to ask a maker specific questions about the maker’s operation, a certain knife, or what the prospective buyer’s expectations should be as the proud owner of one of the maker’s pieces.
Does the maker supply a quality sheath with a fixed blade? Paul LeBatard does with his Field and Stream knife in D2 tool steel and amber stag scales. Overall length: 8.75 inches. (Jocelyn Frasier image)
“I think it’s always good to ask a maker you’re not familiar with but interested in how they got into knifemaking,” Schluter recommended. “How long have they been making knives? Why do they enjoy it? Most custom knives are not inexpensive, and I think it’s perfectly reasonable to want to know about the maker. As many have said, ‘You buy the maker, not the knife!’”
Knowledge is power and Hirsch suggests that prospective customers invest in some research of their own before contacting a maker who interests them.
“There’s typically a wealth of information available online,” he related. “Ask other collectors their opinions. Find out the knifemaker’s preferred method of communication and what hours they are available to communicate with you. Remember that when you are talking with them during working hours you are taking them away from making knives. Be respectful of their time.”
Communication is a two-way street, so what is appropriate in terms of responsiveness from the maker?
“When a maker is at a show, yes, I think it’s important that he engage with people as they walk by—without being pushy,” collector Jim Berkenfield observed. Toby Hill (left) talks knives with a customer at the 2024 BLADE Show Texas.
“Like any business, there is a customer service aspect,” Schluter acknowledged. “Someone who is unresponsive to a sales inquiry might also be unresponsive if there’s a problem with a knife in the future. Of course, there’s the whole ‘knifemaker time’ thing so don’t expect Nordstrom-like customer service, either. For a knifemaker, I generally like to hear back from them within a few days to a week.”
Other Tells Of Good Knifemakers
Other tells of a maker’s work and business conduct might include the existence of a dedicated website; the inclusion of a sheath in the purchase of a fixed blade; the potential cross-over of a knife from everyday carry and field use to the collector’s case, and vice versa; and the relative cost of the piece in comparison to the popularity of the man or woman who made it may all weigh proportionally on the eventual appeal of a maker to the buyer. Some conditions, after all, will always remain subjective.
In the end, a prospective customer and his or her maker of choice should be able to accommodate one another, striking a balance in mutual respect and appreciation for their common interest. Communication is an important part of any relationship or business transaction. When a healthy give and take is present, both parties will tend to be more satisfied with the outcome of a discussion and, hopefully, a satisfied buyer and seller.
Jens Ansø to focus efforts on his personal brand, Ansø of Denmark.
It’s an end of an era.
After nearly a decade of collaboration, GiantMouse Knives and Jens Ansø are parting way. As of 2025, Ansø will step back from GiantMouse to focus on growing his personal brand, Ansø of Denmark.
The designer has been a cornerstone of GiantMouse since its founding in 2015. Alongside fellow Danish designer Jesper Voxnaes (Vox) and American entrepreneur Jim Wirth, Ansø co-founded the brand with a mission to create exceptional knives that combine innovative design, premium quality, and fair pricing. His contributions to GiantMouse, particularly his collaborative designs with Voxnaes, have shaped the brand’s identity and earned it a loyal following in the knife-making community.
“This is a natural evolution that allows both GiantMouse and Jens to focus entirely on growing our respective brands, and we’re all excited about what’s ahead,” said Jim Wirth, CEO of GiantMouse, in a press release. “We’re grateful for everything Jens has brought to GiantMouse over the past nine years. As we move forward, Jesper and I are focused on shaping the future of GiantMouse, while Jens will be able to dedicate himself fully to Ansø of Denmark. We’re confident this step will allow both brands to expand in new ways and achieve the unique goals we each hold for our respective visions.”
Jim Wirth, left, a businessman and angel investor, suggested that Danish designers Jesper Voxnaes, middle, and Jens Anso, right, start a new company to produce knives they collaborate on, sharing in profits rather than receiving a royalty percentage.
Ansø expressed similar sentiments, reflecting on his time with the company.
“Co-founding GiantMouse with Jim and Jesper, and collaborating with Jesper on knife designs has been an amazing experience,” he said. “I’m very proud of what we’ve built together over the years. GiantMouse has become a brand that represents quality, innovation, and a strong connection with its community, and I’m honored to have been part of its journey.”
To honor Ansø’s legacy, GiantMouse will continue to credit products co-designed by Voxnaes and Ansø with the “designed by Vox/Ansø” designation in their product descriptions. This decision underscores the importance of their collaborative work and the lasting impact Ansø has had on the company’s success.
“We’re proud of what we’ve built together and can’t wait to see what the future holds for both brands,” Wirth added. “This isn’t goodbye—it’s simply the next step forward for all of us.”
With a career spanning over three decades, Ansø has built a legacy of innovative knife designs influenced by his background in industrial design, his love for craftsmanship, and his dedication to learning through trial and error. His passion for the craft and commitment to excellence continue to inspire the knife-making community worldwide.
Factory balisongs reflect advances in steels, pivot action, designs and more.
The balisong has become a global symbol of precision and cutting-edge design, with Benchmade, Boker Plus, Schrade and Squid Industries among those pushing the boundaries of the knife’s craftsmanship. Incorporating high-quality steel alloys, handle materials and the smoothest in pivot technology have elevated the four companies’ latest balisongs—aka butterfly knives—and those of others as well to new heights of performance and aesthetics.
Boker Plus Papillon
The Papillon’s skeletonized scales combine aesthetics and function and reduce weight.
Inked Tanto Krake Raken Specs Blade Length: 4.5” Blade Steel: AEB-L stainless Blade Grind: Flat Blade @Thickest: .12” Blade Finish: DLC (Diamond Like Coating) Handle Material: Aluminum Weight: 4.33 ozs. Closed Length: 5.625” Country of Origin: USA MSRP: $295
Pros
Smooth Deployment
Lightweight Handle
Practical Finish
Cons
Potential Cleaning
The Boker Plus Papillon is a contemporary take on the classic balisong, blending traditional design with advanced materials and engineering. The skeletonized stainless steel handles, finished with a bead blast, provide a comfortable and secure grip, even during extended use. The heart of the knife is the blade of D2, a tool steel renowned for exceptional edge retention and durability. The stonewashed finish enhances the blade’s aesthetic appeal and corrosion resistance. The dimpled ricasso, a distinctive feature of the Papillon, adds to its tactical look and feel.
The ball-bearing mechanism ensures smooth and effortless blade deployment, a hallmark of high-quality balisongs. Overall construction is robust, designed to withstand the rigors of everyday carry and occasional tactical use. In short, the Papillon balances portability and functionality.
Schrade Alkemyst
The Alkemyst features an innovative spring-loaded latch on the bite handle, providing a user-friendly experience.
Striking a balance of size and cutting power, the Schrade Alkemyst is a high-performance butterfly knife designed for beginners and experienced flippers. The sleek milled stainless handles reduce weight without sacrificing strength, making the knife easier to handle during extended use. The precision-engineered ball-bearing pivot system allows for smooth, effortless blade deployment. At the same time, the innovative spring-loaded latch on the bite handle provides a user-friendly experience. The Alkemyst is lightweight and portable, featuring a bead-blast finish for added corrosion resistance.
Squid Industries Inked Tanto Krake Raken
The author plays with the Squid Industries Inked Tanto Krake Raken. The redesigned bushing/washer system reduces blade play for ultra-smooth flipping action.
Inked Tanto Krake Raken Specs Blade Length: 4.5” Blade Steel: AEB-L stainless Blade Grind: Flat Blade @Thickest: .12” Blade Finish: DLC (Diamond Like Coating) Handle Material: Aluminum Weight: 4.33 ozs. Closed Length: 5.625” Country of Origin: USA MSRP: $295
Pros
Enhanced Grip
Excellent Blade
Good Flipper
Cons
Cutting Performance
The Squid Industries Inked Tanto Krake Raken is an exceptional blend of exact engineering and aesthetic craftsmanship. Upgraded for enhanced performance, it features deeper milling on the handles and substantial gimping for a superior grip. The handles are lightweight, channel-constructed 7075 aluminum, ensuring resilience and comfort. The highly anticipated Inked-DLC-coated tanto blade, crafted from AEB-L stainless steel, offers outstanding cutting performance, while the redesigned bushing/washer system reduces blade play for ultra-smooth flipping action. The knife is perfectly balanced for flipping and cutting tasks, making it a must-have for enthusiasts seeking reliability and style.
Benchmade 99 Necron
You can fine-tune the Necron’s balance and speed with adjustable tungsten weights and extendable handles.
The Benchmade 99 Necron is a high-performance butterfly knife designed for expert flippers and enthusiasts alike. The knife pays homage to Benchmade’s roots with the company’s classic trademark “Bali-Song” logo and adds modern features for enhanced performance.
The Necron has latchless G-10 handles and a scimitar-shaped blade, available in two customizable variants. You can fine-tune the knife’s balance and speed with adjustable tungsten weights and extendable handles. The knife boasts either jade or ruby red handles. The safe handle bears a hollow diamond texture, providing a tactile indication for users to avoid accidental blade contact. The Necron has a nylon sheath for secure storage.
Balisong Cuting Tests
In terms of blade patterns, the Krake Raken (left) with its tanto and Necron (right) with the scimitar contrast with the more traditional modified drop and harpoon patterns of the Alkemyst and Papillon, respectively.
I put the balisongs through the cutting board gauntlet that I use with most utility blades. Leather, wire, cardboard, heavy-duty tow strapping, paracord, nylon webbing and light-gauge tin were on the menu. However, it all started with plastic foam packaging peanuts.
Balisongs are used for all sorts of tasks, but with more flare. I started on the foam peanuts and moved on to various fibrous materials. The delicate peanuts told the tale of the tape. While all the blades completed the task, the Necron was on top from the start.
Each bali cut through the materials with a few setbacks. The tin showed a clear winner as the Krake Raken’s penetration scored on a colossal level, though the Alkemyst did very well due to its swedge and thinner stock.
Cardboard was tricky. The Alkemyst never made it through the box cardboard or paper towel roll. The Necron and Papillon sliced quickly, while the Raken was somewhere in between. The trend continued with the tow strapping and nylon webbing.
It was undeniable: the Necron, Papillon, Raken and Alkemyst sliced best, in that order.
Balisong Flipping Tests
The pivot systems of the four test balis are designed for a seamless combination of strength and fluidity.
Flipping each review bali had me picking a new favorite each time I switched them out, so don’t expect me to choose a favorite. I admit I was rusty as I hadn’t practiced in a while, but it was still fun.
I liked the weight and the way the Papillon flipped from the get-go. The latch helped with peace of mind in transport, as did the nylon carrying case. The skeletonized handle felt secure, made for a positive grip, and helped me confidently stop the action. It was smooth, solid and sharp as heck.
The Schrade Alkemyst was the smallest and lightest of the test flippers. It felt a tad slower due to the weight and handle length. Nonetheless, getting used to what you have is key. The spring-loaded latch on the bite handle is designed for convenience, ensuring a distraction-free flipping experience. The ball-bearing pivot system promoted smooth, effortless blade deployment.
A latch can add weight and create an imbalance in a bali, affecting handling during flips and tricks. In comparison, a latchless design offers enhanced balance and symmetry. The Squid Industries Inked Tanto Krake Raken and Benchmade 99 Necron are two examples of the latter.
It takes a while to manipulate the Inked Tanto Krake Raken as smoothly as possible, but it’s worth the time. I had to get used to not having a latch, as all my balis from the Philippines had them. However, I could tell the difference. Try it out for yourself.
After several years without offering a balisong, the 99 Necron is Benchmade’s first in nearly four years. I had to get accustomed to the feel, which is probably best. The action was smooth despite the lack of bushings—washers only for this one.
Ultimately, use what you like. Most balisong enthusiasts will weigh flipping over cutting. Try as many balis as possible to arrive at your favorite.
Cut like a Viking with some top factory interpretations of an ancient design.
When knife fans think Vikings and Viking blades, the seax is at or near the top of the list. The seax (pronounced sax) blade shape originated in northern Europe from late Roman to early medieval times and was used widely by the Germanic tribes.
Seax means knife or cutting tool, both of which aptly describe the useful blade shape that is equally at home as a tool or a weapon. Typical uses include but are not limited to food preparation, general cutting, carving and more. Medieval warriors entered battle carrying swords, axes and the seax as a back-up. It was a very well-rounded knife design that played a prominent role in daily life.
Typical seax construction included forged carbon steel blades paired with wood, bone or antler handles. The handle often was adorned with decorative carvings or inlays. In size, the knife ranged from small utility models to swords and everything in between. It also was a symbol of status and identity. Today the seax comes in a wide range of materials, sizes, price ranges and more.
A leading example is the TOPS Knives Storm Vector. Featuring a 12.6-inch blade of 1095 carbon steel and an 18.25-inch overall length, the Storm Vector is the largest seax of the test bunch. It’s an intriguing twist of seax meets machete that results in an interesting cutting tool. Done right, 1095 can hold an edge quite well but is also very easy to sharpen in the field, a major selling point. A Sniper Gray coating protects the blade from stains and corrosion and provides a subdued, tactical look.
The ergonomic handle is black Micarta®. Blue liners give a subtle pop of color to an otherwise dark knife. The handle’s curve, prominent finger grooves and expanded butt all help to make the knife feel as if it were molded to your hand. The Micarta corners are rounded for more comfort.
Make no mistake, this isn’t a lightweight. The blade is a quarter inch at the thickest and the knife tips the scales at a healthy 24 ounces. The side-break Kydex sheath has a button snap/strap closure to secure the knife, and a neat dangler belt loop allows the sheath to swing freely and not bind up on vegetation. Overall sheath quality: excellent.
Designed by TOPS Knives headman Leo Espinoza—inset holding one at BLADE Show West—the Storm Vector handles baton work like, well, a Viking. (image of Espinoza by BLADE® staff)
The Storm Vector especially excels at chopping. It has the weight to support it, as well as superior handle ergonomics. My hand felt very secure throughout testing; never did I feel as if I were losing control of the knife. TOPS has superb handle ergonomics on many of its larger fixed blades. Rounded, contoured Micarta edges make the handle comfortable to hold, even for extended periods.
TOPS excels at making superb outdoor knives and the Storm Vector is testament to this. It offers excellent fit and finish. If you want a heavy-duty chopper you can throw around and not have to worry about durability, the Storm Vector is it.
CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax
The CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax feels agile in hand and can easily chop small saplings with ease.
Based on a 10th-century seax design and at 17.25 inches overall, the Legacy Arms Witham Seax from CAS Iberia is pretty impressive size wise. The 12-inch blade offers plenty of edged real estate paired with a simple handle sporting minimal adornment.
The 5160 carbon steel blade is flat ground with a convex edge for razor sharpness. A forward guard at the tang is inlaid with what appears to be copper diamond shapes. The motif carries over to the steel buttcap, which boasts the same adornment. The brushed finish of the guard and buttcap complements the blade’s satin finish, rounding out the knife’s overall appearance nicely.
The wood handle is wrapped with leather for a luxurious vibe. It definitely is comfortable to hold. The double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops. The sheath is pretty basic but is all that’s needed to protect the blade.
The Witham’s double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops.
The Witham Seax is very well made. The quality of finishing is superb and the cutting edge was reasonably sharp out of the box, though I was able to improve it using a coarse-grit diamond sharpening rod. The 5160 sharpens quickly and easily. The fit of both the guard and buttcap to the tang is excellent.
This is a slender, agile knife. It feels great. It is a bit blade heavy but not so much that it can be employed as a dedicated chopper. While it handles chopping well, I would opt for a design that is more blade heavy and also a more ergonomic handle. That being said, the Witham Seax shines as a general cutting tool. The blade has great bite and the 5160 responds well to steeling or stropping, something you can do easily in the field to prolong a sharp edge. The inlaid edges of the guard are a nice visual touch as well. This is as much a collector piece as it is a user.
Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax
Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle of the Condor Norse Dragon Seax, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath.
The Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax features a broken back seax blade design with an angled tip reminiscent of today’s reverse tanto pattern. The 7-inch blade is 1095 and features a two-tone finish—the bevels are satin finished and the flats sport the natural darkened finish a blade exhibits emerging from heat treatment.
The simple handle design is durable hickory with a single brass spacer where the handle meets the tang, accenting the handsome overall look. Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath. At 11.7 inches overall, the Condor entry can tackle a wide variety of chores both indoor and out.
The Norse Dragon Seax does well on a variety of media thanks to its Scandi-like grind and easy-to-sharpen 1095 carbon steel.
The Norse Dragon Seax has great blade geometry, enabling it to sail through various materials with ease. The edge out of the box wasn’t quite keen enough but I was able to fine tune it with my arsenal of sharpening equipment very quickly. Once I got the edge to my liking, the Norse Dragon tackled cutting chores with aplomb. The hickory handle is comfortable, though possibly could be a bit thicker to make it easier to grip for folks with larger hands.
This knife is not a chopper. It lacks the mass and blade length as well as handle ergonomics for the activity. However, for a tool that slices and dices, this is it. As long as you limit it to cutting only, you should have no issues. In fact, it is a highly capable cutter that would find a good home in any fixed blade fan’s collection.
Emerson Knives Seax
Thanks to a conventional double “V” grind, whittling is no problem with the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade. The Wave design at the end of the ramp helps identify the knife as an Emerson.
Emerson Knives, Inc., has folding and fixed-blade versions of the seax, the latter which is the entry for this review. It is more toward the tactical side, as most of Emerson’s knife line is. Ten inches overall, it sports the company’s superb signature grip ergonomics.
The handle curves encourage firm, non-slip purchase and the chamfer of the G-10 scales checks the comfort box. The handle surface is textured and sports a series of well-placed golf-ball-like dimples that further enhance purchase.
The spine thumb ramp terminates in another Emerson signature design, the Wave. Normally used on the company’s folders to assist in opening the blade, the thumb ramp/Wave allows you not only to lock in your grip but also to exert downward pressure to make cuts. One look and it’s an Emerson design for sure, so the thumb ramp/Wave serves as a visual identifier as well.
The 4.8-inch blade boasts a conventional double “V” grind, though the chisel cutting edge bevel is single sided only. The 154CM stainless steel holds an edge very well and is fairly easy to sharpen. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment. The sheath is basic but a quality make and functions well.
To help enhance purchase, the handle surface of the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade is textured with well-placed golf-ball-like dimples. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment.
Though the knife has a tactical design and feel, don’t let that discourage you from using it in outdoor or general settings. First and foremost, it is a great all-around cutting tool. The straight edge easily cuts cardboard, hose, plastic sheeting and foam, and more. It also handles whittling well, with the chisel-ground edge biting into wood aggressively and deeply.
One of the things I have always loved about Emerson knives is the company’s expert application of handle ergonomics. I’ve yet to use an Emerson handle I don’t like. In addition to enhancing purchase, the handle dimples help displace moisture, providing an excellent grip even with wet hands. Emerson builds knives meant for hard use, so don’t fear putting the knife through its paces. It is built for the long haul and won’t let you down.
The company name stamped on the blade isn’t always the manufacturer’s name.
Who doesn’t like solving a good mystery? Remember the mystery game Clue, with its colorful game board depicting an old mansion, a stack of character cards, various miniature weapons, a detective’s notebook, a set of dice, and clue cards? The object of the game is to determine who murdered the victim, where the crime took place, and which weapon was used. Each player assumes the role of one of six suspects and attempts to solve the whodunnit by strategically moving around the game board that represents rooms of the mansion and collecting clues about the circumstances of the murder from other players. Clue is cited in several Top 10 lists as the fifth highest-selling board game of all time, with over 200 million copies sold.
Mysteries regarding knife production abound because thousands of cutlery manufacturers exist in the United States. Collecting vintage or antique knives inevitably turns up many examples with mysterious or unknown tang stamps and origins, even for seasoned collectors. To many knife enthusiasts, determining which factories produced specific models is unimportant. However, for serious and curious collectors interested in researching some recent finds, tracking down the origins of unknown tang stamps is akin to solving a cutlery history mystery.
In most cases, the finders of these unknown specimens can reference highly regarded publications with lists of knife manufacturers, descriptions of tang stamps, production dates, countries of origin, and sometimes even desirability ratings or collectible rankings.
The same company made two original sheaths of widely different patterns. A page from Dean Case’s Kinfolks Knives book shows the exact carved leather sheath and proves that the company made it.
Such books include those authored by John Goins and Bernard Levine. I use the references much like a history book since they are devoted explicitly to production knife history, perusing years, dates, details and fascinatingly unique information. Of course, there is also the Internet and its various search engines, which, if used correctly, can uncover published data on most little-known knife tang stamps. Keep in mind, however, that much of the Internet, especially forums, consists of a series of posts made by individuals, some experts, but many not. Most posts are simply an individual’s opinion and are not based on factual material such as military contracts or production knife company catalogs and ephemera.
Like detective work, looking for clues is the key to solving most knife mysteries. Many knives can reveal clues to their history if one knows where to research and what to look for. Unfortunately, just when you think you’ve traced a particular knife back to its manufacturing origins, you inevitably discover that thousands of models were not even manufactured by the company indicated on the tang stamp, but were, in fact, made on contract by different factories. Those factories derived a significant portion of their business taking orders. In other words, the stamping on the blade, which generally indicates a manufacturer and city of origin, may not be the factory or the city where the knife was made.
Production knife companies can be divided into two categories. The first manufactures blades bearing their own stampings and makes few, if any, knives for other businesses. Remington Cutlery appears to be one of those manufacturers that produces only knives bearing the company’s full name. Remington did have a couple of production lines, one with knives stamped in a straight-line “Remington,” but it only produced its own blades and did not work with outside contracts.
A gorgeous, red-handled hunting knife is stamped “Ideal” on the knife and sheath—the snaps on the top of the sheath hint at its origin.
The second are those that not only produced knives bearing the official company name but also accepted contracts to make models for any of several major retail outlets needing factory-fixed blades and folders. For many manufacturers in the second category, making knives for retailers or putting other companies’ brand names on tang stamps equated to a significant source of revenue.
Knives On Contract
Some production knife companies made blades on contract to spread their knives throughout the United States. This was particularly important for manufacturers like the Western States Cutlery of Boulder, Colorado, which had difficulty selling its knives east of the Great Plains. Other companies include industry giants like Camillus, Colonial, Western Cutlery and Kinfolks. Some outlets contracting with Western Cutlery to make knives for them included Sears, Montgomery Wards, Coast Hardware, Western Auto, Spiegel and Shapleigh Hardware.
Camillus is perhaps the best example of a production knife company known for copyrighting dozens of tang stamps, yet the manufacturer made all the blades. The list of those stampings takes up pages but includes Kingston, Clover, Sta-Sharp, Dunlap, Kwik-Kut, Streamline, OVB (Our Very Best), High Carbon Steel, Keen Kutter, Kent, Sword Brand, Tip Top and Buck. While most stampings are contract-made knives (like Keen Kutter and Buck), others are merely Camillus Cutlery’s sub-brands.
With the data well documented regarding the practice of knife manufacturers producing contract brands, a look at specific examples is in order. The origins of many of the tang stamps started as mysteries that were eventually solved through clues inherent to the knives.
Western Cutlery knives hold some specific clues, which, once recognized, can prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that they were made by the company even when stamped with another name. The first and most obvious clue lies in the aluminum pommels that Western used on its various hunting knives. Unlike the rounded, mushroom-shaped or ovoid pommels of other knife manufacturers, Western employed a bird’s-beak pommel.
The aluminum pommel extends smoothly from the last series of colorful handle spacers to form a bird’s beak and head. The top of the pommel is not flat, as most others, but slanted like a bird’s head, sloping down at an angle toward its back. Recognizing this obvious clue, it becomes easy to put a hunting knife stamped “Western” next to those stamped “Craftsman,” “Western Field,” and “Hawthorne” and recognize that Western Cutlery made them all, and those featuring alternative tang stamps were built under contract for Sears and Montgomery Ward.
A red-handle Ideal hunting knife, which snaps onto the Kinfolks hatchet set sheath. Notice the similarities of the leather sheath embossing style—a perfect match. Kinfolks made the “Ideal” knife.
A second clue to whether Western Cutlery manufactured specific knives is those stamped with a unique patent number, 1,967,479. The number refers to a patent by Harlow Platts described as a “novel and simple method of forming a handle for a tool which is durable, strong and which cannot be displaced or loosened.” The patent refers to Western’s double-tang handle configuration, which is two flattened steel rods that run from the blade to the pommel and between which fiber and leather spacers are stacked to form a handle that does not move.
Since only Western knives incorporated the patented handle design, it becomes a simple matter to look at a typical hunting knife from that era to see whether the steel tangs are visible on both sides of the handle, with the spacers lying between the two—Western most certainly made knives with this design feature.
Round Leather Spacers
Most other hunting knife handles from the time were made with a single round rod extending from the base of the blade to the pommel. Round leather handle spacers with holes in the middle are stacked tightly, with the rod running through them, for the length of the handle between the blade and pommel. Generally, the rod is threaded so that a round, usually brass nut can be tightened to sandwich and secure the handle spacers between the blade and pommel, making a durable handle. On these knives, the top ends of the aluminum pommels have round indentations where threaded nuts are seated. Marble’s knives are examples of this handle construction.
A closeup of the stag-handle hunter shows the WARD tang stamp and a patent number below it, giving an obvious hint as to the knife’s maker.
Over several months, I accumulated four hunting knives with a wide-blade style known as a “woodcraft” pattern popularized by the Marble Arms Company. The knives had four different tang stamps, one reading JEAN CASE CUT. CO., a second, BELNAP, LOUISVILLE, the third, HOLLINGER, and the fourth was stamped KINFOLKS, INC. I was already familiar with the Kinfolks stamp, as I have always favored this wide-blade style. I also knew Kinfolks had a knife factory built in the 1930s but did not realize that the manufacturer was potentially involved in contracts with other companies to produce their knives.
An examination of the four hunting knives laid side by side clearly showed that they were almost identical in blade length, had the same highly polished chrome-vanadium blades, and identical aluminum guards and pommels with brass centering nuts.
If I needed yet another piece of evidence to prove that Kinfolks made the four knives, the spacer pattern proved a strong clue. The knives had identical stacked leather handles ending near the guards with alternating black and white spacers—five black spacers separated by three white spacers. Finally, looking at the sheaths was the icing on the cake. Although all four hunting knives had sheaths of the same length and width, with identical rivet spacing, one was patterned differently from previously known Kinfolks examples. Wondering if this last leather sheath with a unique stamping was original to the knife and produced by Kinfolks, I turned to a book by Dean Elliot Case titled Kinfolks Knives, a History of Cutlery and Cousins.
Western was a significant producer of contract knives for Sears, Montgomery Ward, Western Auto and others. Here are four examples branded “The Coast Cutlery,” “Western Auto,” “Hunt Master” (Spiegel), and “Western Boulder.” Some enthusiasts specialize in collecting Western’s contract-branded knives.
Looking at the illustrations of various Kinfolks knives in the book, I came across a picture of a sheath identical to that which housed the Jean Case woodcraft knife. The mystery was solved, and all four hunting knives were made by Kinfolks, even though they had different stampings.
A unique hunting knife appeared recently in an Internet auction. Being attracted to colored hunting knife handles from days gone by, I bid on it. My winning bid soon arrived, and opening the package revealed a hunting knife and a leather sheath with the word “Ideal” embossed in script lettering. The blade tang was also etched “Ideal.” The mystery was in what production knife company made it. I noticed that, at the top of the leather sheath, were two snaps, one on each side of the pommel. Those snaps led me to rustle through my collection of hunting knives, explicitly looking for knife/axe combination sets. I found just the set, made by Kinfolks, with the same two snaps on the knife sheath and an identical set on the hatchet sheath. Taking the newly purchased Ideal hunting knife, I aligned the snaps on that sheath to the Kinfolks knife/axe combination set. “Snap, snap,” a perfect match.
Examining the leather embossing on the Ideal hunting knife sheath proved to be a perfect match to the Kinfolks sheath for the knife/axe combination set. My investigation solved which company made the Ideal hunting knife with red handle slabs. It was a part of a Kinfolks hunting knife set with an Ideal stamping. I am sure a matching hatchet with an Ideal stamp and a red handle is somewhere.
Different Handle Material
One of Western’s most interesting knife styles was a wide-bladed pattern with a different handle material from what it usually used. Western Cutlery was generally known for its stacked-leather knife handles. The H-shaped leather washers are stacked together with various patterns of fiber spacers along the company’s patented double-tang handle, all held in place by an aluminum pommel that is double-pinned to two steel tang sections.
Two hunting knives, one with a stag handle and the other featuring a sectioned “cracked ice” celluloid handle, have similar “bird’s beak” pommels, blade shapes and tang stampings.
The knives I acquired are stamped “West-Cut,” indicating Western’s less expensive line of knives, most of which incorporate stacked-leather handles. Each of these knives, however, enlists a thin aluminum guard and a shiny, molded handle, which narrows at the butt to form a quasi-shaped pommel. The handles are plastic, deep brown with specks and swirls of lighter browns.
Finding several other examples, which I assumed to be West-Cut’s as well, I was struck by the stamping on the blades, which included Shapleigh’s, Colonial, Providence, Viking, New York, and yet another with an arched line reading “The Coast Cutlery, Portland, Oregon.” The Viking example had an aluminum handle. The Colonial was bright orange, and the Coast Cutlery (not pictured) model featured a relatively thick aluminum guard with a red spacer between two aluminum pieces.
Once again, the mystery lies in which productive factory made the hunting knives. Colonial Cutlery of Providence, RI, was known for making thousands of knife styles with colored handle materials. Living in Colorado, I have located a half-dozen examples of these molded, brown-handled knives.
A closeup comparison of the two hunting knives shows the same patent number on both blade tangs. This patent number was awarded to Western Cutlery for “a simple method of forming a handle for the tool”—the double steel tang upon which H-shaped fiber spacers and washers could be stacked to form the handle. Western made the WARD hunting knife; thus, another mystery was solved.
Also, I know that Coast Cutlery of Portland, OR, had extensive contracts with Western for producing small red and white bird-and-trout knives, reinforcing Western’s status as the maker of the molded-handle knives. The “Shapleigh’s St. Louis” example is a monkey wrench in the works, as is the “Viking, New York.” Both are located quite far from Boulder, and Western Cutlery generally had few contracts to make knives east of the Mississippi River. Colonial Cutlery in Providence is even farther away.
Since Western has been out of business since 1992, and all company records are available to collectors and researchers, the idea that Western produced all these knives is up in the air. A letter to current Providence Cutlery owners was also a dead end. Who made these colored, molded-handle knives? That’s a mystery yet to be solved.
Solving cutlery’s history mysteries involves following the clues, comparing examples, looking at knife construction, examining the sheaths, reading company histories, talking to other collectors, and formulating educated guesses.