Knife Collecting

Thinking of dipping your toe into the exciting world of collecting custom knives? Read these tips first.

What for Look for in a Custom Knife

Don’t buy or collect trends. Buying what’s “hot” today may mean selling at a loss tomorrow. Buy a knife because you like it, not because you think it will increase in value. If the knife is well made, it will always have value.

Decide what the knife will be used for and choose accordingly. Is it pleasing to your eye? Hold it and see how it feels in your hand.

Is it easy to carry? Is the edge geometry correct and are the grind lines even? Are there gaps at joints between the blade and guard? On a folder is there too much blade play—up and down and/or side to side?

Does the knife walk and talk? What about fit and finish?

On a linerlock or framelock does the lock engage too late or too early? Is lockup tight? Feel the knife all over for hot spots and evaluate it in terms of quality construction and materials, creativity, etc.

If the knife is a fixed blade, a sheath can add value. However, the knife needs a sheath only if it is important to you, though it may affect resale value. A good sheath can cost $75 to $150 to have one made, so this is a good benchmark of value detraction.

On the other hand, some sheaths can be distinctive works of art that can add significantly to the knife’s overall appeal and value.

Commissioning a Completely New Custom Knife

Be wary of custom orders, as many things can go wrong, including long wait times before delivery, and makers who shun lengthy dialogue over what might be a healthy monetary investment on your part. Moreover, the finished knife may not meet your expectations.

Custom orders may be best for makers early in their careers. Veteran makers may wind up making a custom order that doesn’t represent their style, so the knife may not increase in value.

Place an order with enough time to pick the knife up at a time that works for you, such as during BLADE Show.

Determining Price of a Custom Knife

Never be afraid to ask a maker, purveyor or any seller why a knife costs what it does. Ask him/her for some background and history on the knife, both of which can embellish a knife’s value, especially if the knife is a vintage one.

If you pay a high price for a knife, see if the maker has been in business for a number of years, has a strong following and that the knife is something special. Such a knife should be made of materials of a higher quality/more in demand than a less expensive model.
If the maker is just starting out, be sure his knives are priced reasonably.

If the knife appears to be underpriced, be sure there’s not a mistake in its construction.

For a guide, check the prices of like knives on the sites of purveyors who have been in the business for a long time. They wouldn’t still be in business if they didn’t offer reasonable pricing.

Are Deposits Necessary?

One purveyor said you should never pay an upfront deposit on a custom order. No exceptions. Watch out for makers who claim to need the deposit to buy materials, etc. You are not a finance company.

Besides, as one purveyor said, “It’s unfortunately very human that it’s hard to get work done that is already paid for.”

Warranties

Ask for a written guarantee regarding what the maker will and will not cover in terms of damage caused by use/abuse, flaws in workmanship or materials (excluding natural materials that chip and crack), etc.

The warranty should last for the remainder the maker’s career.

The distinctive handle of the dog-bone bowie knife resembles a dog bone and allows the user to swing, slice, hack, stick and pull the knife without it flying or slipping out of the hand. A wrap of thin coin silver protects the end of the dog bone, or pommel. An oval-shaped silver ferrule supports the wooden handle at the guard. A metal ferrule is a characteristic of early American knives. It prevented the handle from cracking.

For decoration, thin coin-silver strips are pinned to the top and bottom of the handle from ferrule to pommel. Domed silver studs and rectangle escutcheon plates adorn the dark walnut handle. A thin silver cross guard decorated on each end provides protection to the user’s hand.

The decorated wooden handle without the silver pommel wrap slips over the blade’s hidden tang. A slotted cylinder nut secures the handle to the threaded tang. The photos accompanying this article show both the slotted nut on the handle with the silver pommel removed, and the silver pommel wrap covering this feature. The slotted cylindrical nut is a feature of knives made by the French cutlers of the time in New Orleans.

The feature is evident on push daggers and on knives made by Blaise Pradel that originated in New Orleans. His mark of “PRADEL, A NEW ORLEANS,” is French for Pradel of New Orleans. A pupil of Charriere of Paris, France, Pradel lived on St. Charles Street in New Orleans. The blades were forged and flat ground into a triangular cross section.

They did not have a ricasso. The ricasso is the rectangular cross section of the blade before the guard on modern knives. Instead, they had a circular notch on the edge called a Spanish notch. It is a form of decoration. In the past, it may have had a purpose that is unknown today.

• Easy to maintain
• Simple construction
• Versatile in a number of environments

While the definition of the “perfect” or “4.0” military knife is subjective, those who have been there know well how their knives perform and what it takes to build confidence that the indispensable tool can deliver.

So, with a clean slate, how would veterans of the military and the knife industry construct the finest knife for their own use?

1) Easy

“Durability and maintenance are primary, as they are with any tool or gun,” assessed Rob Cude, who spent 24 years in the U.S. Navy and retired in 2006 as an Explosive Ordnance Disposal Chief after completing tours in Africa, Yemen, Afghanistan and Iraq, with combat duty as a member of the CIF (Commanders in Extremis Force), a group of exceptionally trained Special Operations personnel.

“The knife must be easy to maintain and built of quality materials that stay sharp, are easy to sharpen, and strong,” Cude continued. “Any of SV [CPM S30V, etc.] series steels are really good, and Stellite® for some uses such as diving. High carbon can also be used as blade steel, but it’s all about finish and coating. My handle choice is paper or canvas Micarta with a thread-exposing finish, but the aggressive G-10 textures on fixed blades like those by Strider Knives are really good as well. The material needs to be durable and chemical resistant with a slip-resistant finish when wet.”

While on active duty, Cude carried a Spyderco Police, Benchmade and Emerson folders, and Gerber fixed blades.

“In 1996, I contacted a few custom makers to help us with a fixed blade that met a variety of needs,” he remembered. “Later, I carried Kit Carson, Jones Brothers, Strider and R.J. Martin, all excellent knives that withstood the test of time and extreme conditions.”

Both folders and fixed blades have their places in military use, Rob says. He carried folders in Kydex® sheaths with assisted-opening mechanisms like the Kershaw SpeedSafe™ designed by BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame© member Ken Onion mounted to a holster, along with small, light sheath knives in blades under 5 inches with recurves to increase the cutting edge, attached by a fabric fastener behind his chest-mounted magazine pouches.

His friendship with Cutlery-Hall-Of-Famer Kit Carson and contributions to a military knife design resulted in variants of the U2, which Buck Knives picked up as the Intrepid.

“Kit was not only a friend but a mentor in military career,” Rob noted.

2) Simple

Retired 5th Special Forces Master Sergeant and BLADE field editor Kim Breed makes knives and has done design work for Spartan Blades. He applies the KISS principle, always keeping it simple.

“The more moving parts, the higher the chance of failure,” he reasoned. “I make it a point to serve the military by providing the best knife with the soldier’s interest in mind. They provide me with important feedback on how my knives have performed, which allows me to tailor their needs into my designs.”

While serving with the Special Forces, Breed preferred lightweight knives that could perform a wide variety of tasks since most of his active duty time was spent living out of his rucksack.

“A Ferde-Lance designed by David E. Steele was always with me on every deployment. I also carried a Swiss Army knife Champion, as the tweezers and scissors were the best for removing thorns.”

For Kim, experience still points to the multifunctional blade style with a comfortable handle, and high carbon steel and Micarta are the most requested materials from active service personnel. Comfort, edge-holding ability and ease of sharpening are the top priorities.

“The fixed blade will always have a place with the soldier,” he asserted, “and some folders will be used for smaller tasks. Kydex seems to be the sheath of choice, as it is approved for airborne operations and securely holds the knife in a variety of positions. Blade shapes run the whole spectrum, but most are a version of a drop point or slightly upswept blade. A few soldiers like guards, but as long as the knife has a finger notch to keep the hand from slipping, it’s good. A bead-blasted finish is a favorite. A non-reflective blade is a must.”

3) Environmental Versatility

William “Bill” Harsey Jr. has been around military-style knives for decades and worked in design with legendary Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Col. Rex Applegate, as well as Chris Reeve Knives and Spartan Blades.

He says canvas Micarta handles are tough to beat for control in harsh conditions, including wet and cold and even in darkness. They have been approved for cleanup after exposure to chemical or biological weapons, too.

“I also believe that a knife must be able to retain its sharpness in hot and humid conditions such as marine, riverine and jungle environments,” he commented. “This takes some amount of stain resistance, as an edge can ‘go away’ in the sheath without ever being used.”

The steel of choice for Harsey is CPM S35VN, which he says mimics the traits of a true tool steel but with stainless characteristics. While he adds that good makers can utilize a range of blade steels and produce outstanding knives, non-stainless steels require more maintenance.

“One thing I’ve learned about discussing knives with members of the military is that the topic elicits strong responses, kind of like which handgun is the best,” said Harsey, who has made knives individually and in collaboration with U.S. Army Special Forces, U.S. Navy Special Warfare personnel and Canadian Special Forces.

“Many of the warfighters I know carry several knives in the field and when not in the field. Folders, fixed blades and tools all count.”

Harsey sees the basics as the most important aspects of the ideal military knife.

“I think the requirements for a good military use knife, which can be mission and region specific, are that the blade has a point, cuts and can be carried in a good sheath that works with the rest of the kit carried by the warfighter,” he concluded.

Forget the Movies

During stints with the U.S. Marine Corps and Army, Jack Stottlemire, who makes custom knives for military personnel at Fort Bragg, North Carolina, near his home, has seen many a global hotspot.

A veteran of the 7th Infantry Division (Light) during the invasion of Panama, the 82nd Airborne Division during the Gulf War of 1991, the 173rd Airborne Brigade during the Balkans air war, and a special mission unit in Special Operations during the global war on terrorism in Iraq and Afghanistan, he retired with the rank of sergeant major. Jack also has carried numerous knives.

He put away his Gerber Mk II after carrying it briefly and went with a KA-BAR that performed well in multiple functions. He also has used a Buck 110 folder, M7 bayonet, Leatherman multi-tool, Air Force survival knife, Benchmade Stryker auto, and a Horrigan Fighter made by his squadron mate, Bob Horrigan, who was killed in action June 17, 2005.

“Unlike what you see in the movies,” Stottlemire explained, “soldiers and Marines do not carry large crew-served knives like in Rambo or The Expendables. A knife is a cutting tool for everyday tasks. For silent killing when warranted, a spike hawk is used more often than not in lieu of a knife in Special Operations on today’s battlefield.”

Stottlemire’s custom knives are made under the Rustick Knives brand, and word of mouth drives his sales. He has a large following among Navy SpecWar Teams and Air Force Combat Control Teams.

“Carbon steel knives that are treated to 57-59 Rockwell are easier to sharpen in the field than most stainless steels,” he remarked. “Carbon is more affordable for the average ‘Joe’ also. I was surprised when a SEAL platoon ordered knives from me and did not want stainless. They preferred carbon with a Cerakote™ finish. Now, stainless does have its place, especially in a humid environment like Central America where you can actually watch an unprotected edge rust. But with proper maintenance and protective finishes, carbon can excel in these areas.”

Jack’s handle material of choice is G-10 and he uses that on all the custom knives he produces.

“It’s very tough and durable stuff that stands up to any abuse you throw at it,” he said. “Micarta would my second choice.”

From a military man’s perspective, Stottlemire says a knife needs to do one thing well—cut. Added options such as wrenches, screwdrivers or bottle openers are unnecessary in the field. A good point with a blade of 4-to-5 inches is usually more than enough to do the job well.

It Comes Down to Individual Preference

Overall, both fixed blades and folders useful in the field. Handles of durable synthetic such as Micarta are the top choice, while blade steel is a toss-up between carbon and stainless.

A blade length of up to 5 inches is ideal. Personal preference, though, remains a major factor, and the individual has the opportunity to decide what knife or knives to employ.

What is a Shadow-Pattern Penknife?

Shadow-pattern penknives form a distinctive niche in the pocketknife world and own a tradition related to their original purpose, which was, as with other forms of penknives, to sharpen writing quills or feathers.

Before the introduction of mass-produced, steel-pointed pens in the early 1800s, feathered quills were the only utensil available for writing with ink and paper. Since the smaller blade on penknives was almost always used to sharpen quills into “pens,” the blade became known as a “pen blade.”

Even after the development of steel pens, the penknife continued to be a most popular style found in the pockets of most townspeople, who used them for opening mail and trimming candle wicks.

What’s the Difference Between Jackknives and Penknives?

Before exploring shadow-pattern penknives, some categorization about pocketknives in general is in order. In basic terms, pocketknives fall into two large categories: jackknives and penknives. By examining a typical pocketknife, you can quickly discern the difference between the two styles.

Jackknives have both blades opening from the same end of the knife, while penknives have blades opposite each other and open from either end of the knife. During production, the cutlery worker must frequently “crimp” or slightly bend one of the blades sideways so the opposing pair of blades can pass each other in the same slot without one blade landing atop the other. This step results in a costlier knife.

It is interesting that penknives, being more expensive to produce, have not held their value when compared to jackknives. Collectible jackknives consistently have been priced higher than penknives because of their larger size. Hence, the old adage applies to jackknives: “Bigger is better.”

Shadow Pattern Definition

In order for a knife to be a shadow pattern, it must have one important characteristic that separates it from other penknives. Unlike almost all other types of penknives, the shadow pattern does not have a bolster at either end. In fact, the shadow pattern is the only penknife style missing bolsters.

Why is that significant? Bolsters on each end strengthen the knife since the pin that goes through the pivot portion of the blade also goes through both sides of the knife and passes through a hole in the bolsters.

Since many knife users pry the blade sideways from time to time, this action dislodges the pin holding the blade in place, and frequently damages the knife. Shadow patterns defined as having no bolsters at either end of the knife are substantially more delicate than penknives that have bolsters.

Shadow patterns have blades held in place by a pin that passes only through a thin piece of brass and the handle material itself. When you use the knife to pry sideways you quickly widen the pin hole, and, frequently, crack the handle material.

Of special significance is that many of the expensive shadow patterns had either jigged bone, tortoise shell, or mother-of-pearl or abalone sides.

Given the fragile nature of the natural handle materials, an examination of many shadow patterns reveals cracks or missing handle parts.

Advantages

Why produce a pocketknife with no bolsters that is prone to the cracking or breaking of the handle material? The answer lies in the beauty of the vintage penknives. Handled in tortoise shell, abalone, mother-of-pearl or even fancy celluloids, the small shadow patterns have sides not limited by bolsters at each end.

A mother-of-pearl side with iridescent shades of pinks, purples, blues and greens are displayed without being “bordered” by bolsters. Even bone, especially those with peachseed- or Rodgers-style jigging, outfit the knives’ sides.

Another reason for eschewing the bolsters was understanding the knives’ general uses. Lightly constructed, small in nature and finely finished, the knives were never intended for opening paint cans or scraping rust from a piece of metal as with standard pocketknives.

Instead, they were designed to handle such delicate tasks as cutting a loose thread, cleaning fingernails, removing splinters, opening packages and loosening a stamp from a piece of mail.

Collecting Shadow-Pattern Knives

In terms of overall beauty, the shadow pattern has few equals. Because of its slight size and rather thin cross section, the knife can be fully appreciated for the work involved in producing such a subtle style. Because the blades oppose each other there is some fascination with the craftsmanship needed to produce a knife with limited clearance between blades.

Some manufacturers found yet another use for shadow patterns—as advertising knives. Because the sides of shadow patterns have no bolsters, the entire side could be used to advertise various products.

Western States Cutlery used the technique often. Western States also found that without the bolsters and by using less expensive handle materials, engraved “tourist knives” could be produced inexpensively and distributed to souvenir shops across the Western USA.

Shadow patterns are under collected and underpriced compared to other knives of similar size and handle material. As an added bonus to collectors, any number of American and foreign cutlery companies made the knives, especially those in mother-of-pearl.

When examining them, look especially close to where the pin comes through the handle material. Here is where the cracks will appear.

Meanwhile, you can amass an outstanding group of these delicate pocketknives for a reasonable price.

Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in the January 2010 issue of BLADE. However, the information presented is still relevant and useful to anyone interested in paracord-wrapped knife handles.

Advantages of Paracord-Wrapped Knife Handles

• Affordable: Much less expensive than many natural and synthetic handle materials
• Customizable: Available in a variety of colors
• Convenient: Cordage is as near as your knife
• Versatile: Paracord can be used in countless everyday and survival situations

Disadvantages of Paracord-Wrapped Knife Handles

• Fixed blades only: Folders aren’t an option
• Absorbent: Will soak up moisture (water, mud, blood), and may give off unpleasant odor as a result
• Needs replacing: Wear and tear mean the wrap won’t last forever
• Ergonomics: Some say gloved hands often find a better grip than bare hands

The Infinite Uses of Paracord

While for some it may be considered just a quick wraparound, for others it has proven to be a lifesaver. The simple paracord handle does more than meets the eye.

Functioning as a handle material that allows for the best fit for the size of the user’s hand, and one that can be added or removed in a matter of minutes, paracord is durable and relatively inexpensive. It also adds a dimension of survivability for those in the field.

Paracord pulls double duty as a bootlace, securing line, snare or even in a first-aid situation.

What’s the Best Kind of Paracord?

“The best paracord to use is military 550 cord,” explained custom knifemaker Mickey Yurco, who has employed paracord wrap for handles on as much as 40 percent of his knives. “It has seven inner strands of nylon cord, and the outer shell is tightly braided nylon. If you pull out the separate strands in a survival situation, you can make a bowstring, use it to catch a rabbit with a snare, use it for fishing line, and you can break down the inner core into three separate smaller strands for sewing a rip in a tent or as suture if you cut yourself.

“You can use the outer shell to lash branches together to build a lean-to or tie logs together for a raft. You can even use it to keep a fire lit because [paracord] will melt.”
Yurco also points out that when a paracord handle is unwrapped for another use, the gripping end of the knife is still intact. The entire piece is lightweight and, on the sheath or in a belt clip, as much as eight to 12 feet of additional paracord can be tightly wrapped as backup.

Two Schools of Thought

Mike Fuller of TOPS Knives noticed its reputation rising around 2000.

“I first saw it during the Vietnam era, as some guys wrapped paracord around their sheaths just to have some extra cord if needed,” he commented at the time this article was published. “I did see a few homemade jeepspring knives with paracord wrapping.

“There are two schools of thought on the paracord,” Fuller continued. “In an emergency situation, you might have about 10 feet of cord to use for survival applications. In a wet situation, you might have a better grip, and some people feel that it assists when wearing gloves in the field.

“Paracord can in fact tear or become frayed and, if it gets soaking wet in really cold weather, some have said that their handles freeze and coat with ice. Several professional hunters have said that if you are field dressing an animal the blood may get into the cord and it’s difficult to clean and may carry a distinct odor.”

The Secret is the Simplicity

“People like paracord because it is so simple,” said Justin Gingrich, a consultant with Ontario Knife Co. “It allows them to customize a handle and still have a knife they can carry close to the body. You can wrap, rewrap and even change the cord to match the outfit you’re wearing.

“Paracord allows users to tailor the knife to themselves, beefing the handle up or thinning it out, and, if it gets dirty or frayed or messed up in any way, it’s easy to replace. It will absorb water and hold it, so you don’t want it on an unprotected high-carbon steel knife. You could get rusting issues with water or any other fluids. It will absorb blood if you are hunting, but then again, it’s a give and take since you can change it out pretty quickly.”

Conclusion

As with any knife feature, whether to go with a paracord-wrapped knife handle or not is up to the user. However, many knife collectors enjoy the versatility and customization that paracord offers. Far from a trend, paracord is here to stay as a handle option.