Knifemaking

Knifemaking is the building of a knife, which includes the blade, handle and other accouterments. Blades are made by either removing metal from a steel blank via a grinder – known as stock removal – and the forging to shape of hot steel into a blade in the process known as bladesmithing. Other parts, including bolsters, guards, pommels, etc., are needed to complete the finished knife.

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Making Knives By Smelting Bog Iron

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Making Knives the Old-Old-Fashioned Way

Many knifemakers use today’s best stainless steel money can buy. Other, more do-it-yourself types may scrounge a scrap yard for car springs or ball bearings. Still others go further because all that metal came from somewhere. What if a knifemaker went back to the beginning—starting with the iron pulled from the ground?

In recent years, some smiths have started from square one, pulling raw material from their surroundings to create metal from scratch—just like mankind did for thousands of years. Since the beginning of the Iron Age circa 1200 B.C., man has turned to the iron found in bogs. There, thanks to springs and bacteria, the iron forms into a spongy iron-bearing hydroxide mineral called a goethite.

This renewable source of iron was so important that even the first iron works in America, Saugus Iron Works in Massachusetts, gathered its raw material from nearby bogs. But to turn bog iron into a knife? It’s not a project for the faint of heart.

“You have to prepare hundreds of pounds of charcoal; find, harvest and prepare the ore, build the smelter and then monitor and feed the fire for hours just to produce the bloom,” ABS master smith Kevin Cashen notes. “Then the real heavy work begins of forging it down into a piece of steel that is historically interesting but nowhere near the quality product you get from your modern steel supplier.”

Making knives out of bog metal
Take a peek inside the furnace at the end of the smelt during the Matherton Forge Iron Age Challenge. (Todd Combs image)

And then there’s the problem of smiths not knowing exactly how the ancients smelted iron.

Darrell Markewitz is a Canadian artisanal blacksmith and historical interpreter of the Vikings who settled in Vineland. He says he is “concentrating on rediscovering lost historic smelting methods.”

For example, he had to make intelligent guesses as to how Vikings tracked time during the smelting process, and how the ancients designed bellows because no bellows from that time exists today.

Sourcing Bog Iron For Making Knives

Relatively speaking, Jarkko Niskanen had it easy when he harvested iron out of a bog in Finland. From a boat, the 26-year-old blacksmith simply felt along the bottom of a bog for spongy chunks of material. Markewitz found himself kneeling over a rivulet running through a Canadian bog, feeling for deposits of iron.

Cashen indicates his home state of Michigan is filled with iron. However, only a small portion is bog iron, small chunks of concentrated iron deposited by bacteria on the slow-moving side of streams running through the bog.

“I have found entire cliff faces in the wilds of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula that a magnet will stick to, and huge sections of magnetic black sands on the shores of Lake Superior,” he observes. “But bog iron requires special conditions. I have found some scant deposits locally but not enough to work with regularly.”

There are different kinds of bog iron. All require the same kind of process to turn out a metal. Some types of bog iron react slightly different than others in the smelter, reducing to a smaller amount of usable material, for example. The end result is the same, however: a lump of relatively pure iron.

Once the smith harvested the bog iron, then he cleaned and dried it. Niskanen put his bog iron in a fi re to dry the pieces, and then broke them up until they were small and uniform.

Making Knives Like The Vikings

The process all happens in the bloomery furnace, in what looks like a chimney with an air pipe going into the side to pump in oxygen. It’s a design going back at least as far as Viking times.

“In operating a ‘short-shaft ,’ direct process bloomery furnace, higher air volumes have proven to produce larger, more dense iron blooms—in fact, blooms most like those few found in the archaeology,” Markewitz states.

As the temperatures rise and charcoal continues to be shoveled in, a chemical reaction takes place inside the furnace.

Making knives furnace
As the temperatures rise and charcoal continues to be shoveled in, a chemical reaction takes place inside the furnace. (images courtesy of Jarkko Niskanen)

“The ore is always an oxide,” Markewitz continues. “The smelting furnace is a reduction process removing the oxygen from the ore.”

Charcoal produces carbon monoxide, which reacts with the oxidized iron. As oxygen leaves, the iron particles are left behind and fall to the bottom of the furnace. At the interior temperatures, typically something around 2012-2192°F or more, the heavier iron particles are slightly “sticky” and sinter together has they fall, Markewitz adds.

However, bog iron is also filled with non-iron materials, such as ash and sand. In the furnace, the latter liquefy and fall to the bottom of the furnace where they create a greenish-black glass, or slag, in the shape of a bowl.

Forging slag
If all goes well after hours of running the furnace, a ball of iron that is fragmented and filled with pockets of slag, but iron nonetheless, will result in the bottom of the smelter. (image courtesy of Jarkko Niskanen)

“The top surface of this bowl is closer to the hot area of the furnace [at the blast level and] so remains a liquid,” Markewitz explains. “If too much of this slag is produced, its interior level can rise up to block the air blast. Before this happens, ideally you want to let some slag run out [by tapping the furnace].”

If all goes well after hours of running the furnace, a ball of iron that is fragmented and filled with pockets of slag, but iron nonetheless, will result in the bottom of the smelter. However, what if the metal workers make the furnace too hot? Then, instead of iron, cast iron may be the result—unusable for forging.

Bog iron metal
The pieces of iron begin to take shape after the first forge welding. (image courtesy of Jarkko Niskanen)

“If the iron particles are made too hot, they liquefy. As a liquid, iron will frantically absorb carbon—so fast, in fact, that the iron almost certainly shifts into a too high-carbon cast iron,” Markewitz states. “This material cannot be forged, and is so hot it usually melts through the bottom slag bowl and collects at the ground level of the furnace … The real truth is that it takes skill and experience not to get high carbon cast iron.”

Most smelts are a community effort. Cashen says his most satisfying smelt was in 2009, one he dubbed “The Matherton Forge Iron Age Challenge.” The goal was to smelt and forge an iron sword in three days as a public demonstration. When Markewitz reenacts Viking smelts, he does it with a team of three other people.

Bog iron slag
Another view of the piece of iron shows pockets of slag. (image courtesy of Jarkko Niskanen)

Niskanen took photos of the smelts, which he published online. For ancient metal workers, team effort was out of necessity. After all, bellows are hard to operate for hours at a time to feed a hungry furnace. To keep time, Markewitz’s team chanted, sang songs and focused on heartbeats—possibly historical timekeepers.

“The effective pumping rate was one stroke per second, alternating between the two chambers. Individuals varied on their stroke force [delivery pressure], but averaged 60-to-75 strokes per minute. This was without interruption over the course of the entire firing sequence extending roughly five hours,” he stresses. “We found that to maintain the needed consistency, we needed four individuals working in roughly 10-minute shifts. This labor force needed to be at least semiskilled to the task. This is a requirement totally separate to the needs of feeding and operating the furnace itself.”

Every few minutes, another person would shovel more charcoal into the furnace. Niskanen said he also added crushed limestone to his furnace to enhance the smelting process.

Forging bog knives
At The Matherton Forge Iron Age Challenge, ABS master smith Kevin Cashen extracts the bloom from the smelter. (Karen Cashen image)

Making Bog Knives

The metal worker is not done once the iron is pulled from the furnace.

“To actually form a solid working bar, the sponge needs to be compressed at welding heat to collapse the voids, squeeze out any glass slag and fuse to a solid block,” Markewitz explains.

While every bloom is different, the smith needs to fold, weld and hammer the metal until it’s a unified—and, hopefully, homogeneous—metal bar.

Bog iron knives
A kukri made from the bloom at The Matherton Forge Iron Age Challenge II rests atop the smelter that produced the blade material for it. (Kevin R. Cashen image)

“And every bloom is a bit different in terms of just how solid it might be at the start, how much slag needs to be ejected, and in what the actual starting carbon content might be,” Markewitz notes.

Then, finally, the bladesmith can practice his craft. For Niskanen, it was only natural to use the iron for a traditional knife. He made a puukko, an ancient Finnish knife (pictured at top of this article).

“Since the Iron Age, the knife has been used as a multifunctional tool in everyday life,” he opines. “And for a hunter it is, and always has been, one of those items you can’t go without into the wilderness.”

Niskanen was there from the beginning, when the knife was only a lump of iron oxide resting on the bottom of a Finnish bog, “It makes the blade really personal,” he says.
Markewitz used his iron as a decorative part of the knife.

“For the modern designs, I use the bloom iron specifically to highlight its unique texture,” he observes. “Blades like [my Hector’s Bane model] have bloom-iron exterior slabs forge welded to a carbon steel core. As with other inset-styled blades, it is this modern alloy core that is forming the actual cutting edge.”

He did it that way because iron blades don’t perform as well as blades of modern steel.
During the Iron Age, Markewitz says iron knives were so soft that users carried a small sharpening stone with them because they had to constantly hone the edges. Nonetheless, some knives no doubt performed better than others.

Making knives bog iron ore
Cashen forges a seax (aka sax) blade from the bloom produced at The Matherton Forge Iron Age Challenge. (F. Page Steinhardt image)

In a 2013 study published in The World of Iron London, archaeo-metallurgists Quanyu Wang and Peter Crew compared the performance between three knives made from bog iron. Their paper, titled “Three ores, three irons and three knives,” found that the performance of the knives probably was determined by the skill of the smith and the trace elements in the blade, such as phosphorus, which is known for making iron stronger and harder in trace amounts.

However, phosphorous also can make the metal brittle in cold weather. They compared three bog-iron knives by examining the microstructure of the blades and using the knives to butcher a pig.

Wang and Crew concluded their study by writing, “The quality of bloomer iron depends very much on the smelting and refining techniques used, which may not always be recognizable from the structure and composition of the final metal.”

These smiths have more furnaces to build, iron to smelt and possibly blades to make.

“I have studied older bloomery steel, as well as modern smelted materials under the microscope, and tested the properties, and am quite impressed with the smelting skills of the ancients,” Cashen concludes. “Modern academics had only their best guesses about this process until people started actually doing it again, and then we learned how little we actually knew. We are fumbling our way through a process that our ancestors had completely mastered, developed to its highest levels and then discarded in favor of newer and better processes of making steel.”

Tips for Making Knives: Forging During the Summer

  1. Hydrate
  2. Limit Heat Exposure
  3. Dress Appropriately
  4. Sweat the Load
  5. Divide the Labor

Like most forgers, I try to build a stockpile of damascus and different sized blades in the winter months when the temperature is below 50 degrees F. Sometimes, because of where you live, it might not drop below 70 degrees F. Hot is hot no matter where you forge, and there will be a time when you have to forge no matter how high the temperature is.

Here are some helpful hints to get you through the hot times.

Hydrate

Tips for forging knives
Keep a squirt bottle nearby for a cooling spritz when you need it.

“Pre-hydrate” the day before you are going to forge. Also, drink plenty of water during forging and afterward. I use a squirt bottle to spray myself during forging to add extra cooling. Staying hydrated should keep those nasty headaches away.

Limit Heat Exposure

Forge a knife
Take frequent water breaks while sitting in a cool breeze if at all possible.

If you are lucky enough to have a second person that knows how to forge helping you, take turns doing the work. This limits the amount of time one person has to stand by the hot forge. After your turn, get away from the heat and drink fluids.

Usually I’ll pull a chair close to the door to catch any breeze that might be blowing. I place a fan to blow across the cooling chair if the temperature’s above 90 degrees F. Some have a gas forge that can be moved outside, which is better for the radiating heat, though a strong wind can mess with the fire.

The main point here is to limit the time you are exposed to the forge heat.

Dress Appropriately

How to forge knives
The author eschews long sleeves while hammering a hot billet.

I do away with such coverings as aprons, arm covers and/or long sleeves. I haven’t gone to shorts because there would be a piece of hot something rolling down my leg and into my work boots. No amount of stomping around gets it out. I stick with jeans.

Sweat the Load

A towel or rag that helps keep the sweat from getting in your eyes is a good idea. Your shirt will be soaking wet after a few minutes, so don’t count on it as a sweat sponge.

Divide the Labor

Knife forging safety
The author eschews long sleeves while hammering a hot billet.

When welding damascus on very hot days, one day I do just the first weld to seal the billet. Then the next day, I stretch the billet. The following day, I cut and restack the billet for layer count.

I follow this pattern till I have the billet the way I want it. This takes a lot longer but it doesn’t wear you out at the end of the day.

Then again, sometimes I just work through the heat and sit in my truck with the air conditioning on high. An extra shirt also helps to keep sweat off your vehicle seat.

Keep on Forging

So remember: Drink fluids, limit your time being by the hot forge, stay as cool as possible—and keep forging!

Ancient Bog Oak: Knife Handles Thousands of Years in the Making

As noted in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, “strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.” On the other hand, oaken logs lounging in bogs for a couple of millennia transform into something of a “holy grail” for knifemakers.

The oxygen-poor, acid-rich bog environment changes humble woods such as oak into something dark and infused with history. And it’s in no small part because of this that makers have turned to the material for knife handles.

Knives seem to have a long relationship with bog oak, a prized and precious wood pulled from bogs after thousands of years.

For instance, take the Scottish sgian dubh, the small utility fixed blade sheathed in the sock of a Highlander in traditional Scottish garb. Translated from Gaelic, sgian dubh means black knife, which some think is a reference to the dark bog oak from which the handles of a number of sgian dubhs were carved.

Just as oxygen-poor and acid-rich bogs transform wood, some makers have gone beyond traditional sgian dubhs and use the handle material to hearken back to more mysterious and historic times.

Black Betty

Because it takes ages to form, bog oak is a finite resource. ABS journeyman smith Mike Deibert, who makes knives on the weekends and evenings when he’s not working as an elementary school teacher, waited five years after he bought a piece of bog oak for the right knife to come along.

Ancient Bog Wood Knives
Mike Deibert (inset) uses 5,400-year-old bog oak for the handle of his Black Betty Bowie. Blade length and steel: 10 inches and bold-feather-pattern damascus. (SharpByCoop knife image)

The large, handle-sized piece of the material came already stabilized. Deibert has most of his natural handle materials stabilized so they’re not subject to fluctuation in humidity and are more predictable to work. Even before he decided to use the bog oak, the project was going to be a special one.

“The Black Betty Bowie was created in September of 2019,” Deibert explained. “I designed it for a client who wanted to present it as a gift to an individual who was responsible for raising hundreds of thousands of dollars for cancer research. I wanted to come up with a special work of art that even a non-knife enthusiast couldn’t help but appreciate.”

Deibert started with a bold-featherpattern-damascus design by working out the pattern on paper. When he saw the finished billet, the contrast thrilled him. Besides its tight grain and chocolate color, the wood, billed as a 5,400-year-old relic pulled from a bog in Ukraine, gave the blade historical gravitas.

“When I saw how incredible the dark plume billowed down the center of the blade, I knew I had to put together a guard and handle that complemented this intense feature,” he began. “Originally, I had drawn the knife with a piece of ironwood burl in mind for the handle and a satin-finished steel guard. But, with a very dark portion over most of the blade, I decided to go with all-dark furnishing as a complement.

“This wood, once growing and living thousands of years ago, is now preserved and on display as a handle on the world’s oldest tool. There’s a story in it, and it makes me proud to be able to keep that story going.”

Baba Yaga

What kind of knife would Baba Yaga, a mysterious and terrifying old woman in Slavic folklore, wield as a war blade? That’s the question Connecticut knifemaker Matt Berry pondered as he read through Katabasis, a novel in which the wicked witch swoops in for an appearance.

“Babayaga’s Warknife” began with a blade Berry had put aside after beginning it in 2016.

Ancient bog wood knives
One of the highlights of the Babayaga Warknife by Matt Berry (inset) is the pommel. Berry carved the bog oak to fit into the bronze pommel and ferrule, which he created by casting them via the lost-wax method. The oak for Berry’s handle entered a bog about 5,300 years ago and helped set the knife’s tone. (SharpByCoop photo)

“I started with the pommel carving, which was meant to be Baba Yaga’s face. The rest of the handle just kind of fell into place as I worked forward from the pommel,” he recalled. “I worked on it as time and inspiration allowed and finished it in the spring of 2019.”

One of the highlights of the knife is the pommel. Berry carved the bog oak to fit into the bronze pommel and ferrule, which he created by casting them via the lost-wax method. The oak for Berry’s handle entered a bog about 5,300 years ago and helped set the knife’s tone.

“I wanted something European even if bog oak was never used in the 1200s,” Berry said. “Bog oak is quite expensive. It’s right up there with burl in price and will sometimes cost more. There’s not a lot of it around and the supply is finite. I get most of mine from an English furniture company that digs up and dries its own logs and then makes high-end furniture. I’m buying the company’s scraps.”

Like anything that has sat around for a few millennia, bog wood has its quirks. According to Berry, it can be as temperamental as Baba Yaga herself.

“The grain isn’t tight, and it’s kind of mushy and chippy at the same time,” he warned. “Th at makes it very frustrating to carve. It drills and sands fairly normally but it can be prone to splitting.”

Dagger of Firsts

Brant Cochran of Gray Flame Forge works in the insurance industry but, when he can, he’s in his shop. When he created his 10.5-inch dagger with a blade of W2 tool steel and a bog oak handle, it was a project of firsts.

He took three months to slowly build the dagger, in part because it was his first time making a dagger of that length. While he wanted to make a large knife, the quintessential bowie didn’t appeal to a man whose interests in edged tools were whetted when, as a youngster, he saw an arming sword at his grandparents’ house.

Ancient Bog Oak Handled Knife
The bog oak for the handle of the dagger by Brant Cochran (shown inset in the process of assembling the takedown piece) is 3,300 years old. The 10.5-inch blade is W2 tool steel with a double hamon. Overall length: 17.5 inches. His list price to make a similar knife: $800. (SharpByCoop knife image)

The dagger was the first time he had made a knife with a cross guard, a pommel, takedown construction and a bog oak handle. He initially had planned on making the handle from ironwood. Then, after some African blackwood got “screwed up,” Cochran turned to a piece of bog oak.

“I’d never used it before,” he stated. “I was already doing all these new things—why not try a new material as well? That was part of it. But I was interested in bog wood because it has a historical element to it. It had spent 3,300-plus years sitting in a bog.”

His impressions? The bog oak worked a heck of a lot better than ironwood.

Furthermore, it was almost the perfect carving wood. He created a subtle ridge running down the length of the handle. The wood wasn’t soft enough for the subtle feature to get “completely washed out,” nor was it hard enough that it required extra effort to eliminate the sharp edges. The dagger of “firsts” became a springboard to future projects.

“I would work really hard on one piece as I was trying to build up my skills,” Cochran said. “Then I would bring it to master smiths I knew and respected to get it critiqued. A picture is not going to show you every little detail you need to figure out how to make a quality knife.

“Your edge might have good retention but if your handle’s too thick or just very uncomfortable, you might not pick that up. And, by speaking to the master smiths and having them show you what those details are, you can then train your own eye to do it as you move forward.”

Perfect Complement

For Anders Högström, bog oak is a relic from an ancient time and a perfect complement for his Valdez ceremonial dagger.

A full-time knifemaker who lives in southern Sweden, Högström is also a hobby chef when he’s not crafting knives. One vein of his work is to build knives of cultures that are combined or are long-ancient ones that persisted for years.

Ancient bog wood
One-thousand-year-old bog oak and ancient walrus ivory comprise the handle of the Valdez ceremonial dagger by Anders Högström (inset). The 3-inch blade is 1050 carbon steel with hamon. The custom leather sheath is by Balatoni. Högström’s price for a similar knife and sheath: $2,500. (SharpByCoop knife image)

According to Högström, “My main direction of design is that of a marriage between the Nordic and Japanese.”

He uses a lot of one-off casting and hamons. For his short-bladed ceremonial knife, he went with a model he imagined could have been used by an ancient American Indian culture, such as the Inca or Maya.

“The ceremonials I make are a sort of homage to what would have been used by a high priest, shaman or someone of similar standing at a ceremony of importance,” he explained.

Högström indicated bog oak pairs well with other materials. For the Valdez, he “married” the 1,200-year-old material with ancient walrus ivory left raw in the handle butt to provide texture. The bog oak, he said, carried a “meaningful weight”—almost as if the material were an artifact of an older time.

Ancient bog wood knife handles
Anders Högström used bog oak for the stand for his cutlass. As he noted, “The stand is made from an old piece of bog oak that was likely a beam from a ship—the ax marks are intact and are all on the top surface—and it comes from the area where I live, named Blekinge here in the south of Sweden, that has been in the ship building business for centuries.” (image courtesy of Anders Högström)

“Something ancient that has been left to decay—but, as nature would have it, something happened in the process, and the original material got to evolve into something else—much like the fossil walrus ivory in the handle that was colored by minerals in the ground and because of the thousands of years it stayed there,” he mused.

Högström pointed out that some pieces of bog oak must be stabilized because they might be soft and the pores of the wood must be filled.

It depends on the project. However, for his ceremonial dagger, he said the unstabilized wood was “easy to work and medium soft.” He chose a fine-steel-wool finish to get into the wood’s grain, thus bringing out the most character. This was followed by a couple of coats of wax to protect the surface.

When customers learn of the bog oak’s history and the stories it evokes, Högström said they often react with “both amazement and amusement, as well as a certain reverence.”

Knifemaking: ABS Master Smith J.D. Smith’s 4 Principles

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  1. A personal approach and style.
  2. An object of art or music should give you a sense of life, an idea what it’s like to be in the artist’s shoes.
  3. Technical control.
  4. An endless flow of ideas.

 

J.D. Smith: Dancing in the Shop

J.D. Smith and I were neighbors for three years and, as it was a short walk, would frequently wander down to the Massachusetts College of Art and Design (MassArt) together, sometimes for class, sometimes just to work.

Boston’s a very diverse city, and it wasn’t uncommon for him to stop and start speaking Russian or Spanish with various friends along the way before getting to class and beginning to speak Korean with a student.

Neither was it unusual for J.D. to dance around the shop, especially while making damascus. Dance, music, sculpture: They all have a flow to them, and some people simply love to incorporate and live with all three. J.D. dances through the music, the work, and the awards. I was with him at the 2013 Oregon Knife Show when I watched him win four awards, and his study at home was littered with many more.

Two of the pieces were collaborations: one a hunting knife with now American Bladesmith Society master smith (MS) and past apprentice Zack Jonas, the second a precious metal and stone-laden sword crafted with the talented Joseph Shnayder, J.D.’s partner at AmeRRuss Blade Arts.

It was also at the Oregon show that BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Wayne Goddard gifted J.D. his MS stamp, something I don’t think J.D. will ever forget.

J.D. received the MS stamp in 1998, along the way winning the B.R. Hughes Award for the best knife submitted by an MS applicant at the BLADE Show. This made J.D. the first black MS, though he tries not to dwell on this because he feels it detracts from the bladesmithing.

“The field should be blind to age, sex, and race,” he noted. “The focus should be on the work.”

Developing A Style

In 1991, J.D. walked into Joe Wood’s office, who at the time was head of the MassArt sculpture department. J.D. told Joe that the school’s officials couldn’t say they were teaching the most up-to-date metals program without teaching damascus. Joe agreed and offered J.D. a guest teaching position. In 1996, George Greenimire offered J.D. a regular class to teach.

As a teacher, J.D. would encourage students to do what he thought they were naturally inclined to do without controlling their sense of design, or discouraging them from pushing their limits. The goal isn’t to replicate other people’s work, but, if you can understand what you’re attracted to, you will have an easier time designing your own work and, hopefully, developing your own style.

JD Smith Master Smith
Another collaboration with Joseph Shnayder, this arresting art knife features a 6-inch blade of J.D.’s explosion damascus in 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. The handle is carved African blackwood, highly detailed silver work and gemstone settings. The quillons are carved in the shape of claws. Overall length: 12 inches. (SharpByCoop image)

“If there’s a table with 500 different knives on it,” he observed, “someone should be able to pick out your work with ease.”

When I asked him how he started to develop his style, he mentioned it being “cobbled together from Don Fogg, Wayne Goddard, Jimmy Fikes, and Wayne Valachovic—Valachovic especially for folders—Bill McHenry and Jim Schmidt.”

Bill and J.D. had become good friends over the years, and J.D. credits much of his knowledge of folders to him. Bill passed away in 2019 and is greatly missed by many inside and outside the knifemaking community.

Knifemaking: ABS Master Smith J.D. Smith’s 4 Principles of Superior Art

Over the years, J.D. has developed his Four Principles of Superior Art:

  1. A personal approach and style.
  2. An object of art or music should give you a sense of life, an idea what it’s like to be in the artist’s shoes.
  3. Technical control.
  4. An endless flow of ideas.
Tips for Making a Knife
The author collaborated with J.D. on this stylish fixed blade in damascus, a carved handle, and stunning wooden sheath. (SharpByCoop image)

Further explaining his sense of style, he said, “Style is every technique that you use as part of your personal toolbox, and the things you choose not to use. That equals your style. As an artist progresses, he starts to limit his options. It shows a level of maturity. You use four or five techniques, and you develop your style off the permeation of those techniques.”

 

Meet The Living Legends Who Make Knives

A new book from the publishers of BLADE magazine, Greatest Living Knifemakers, celebrates today’s legends who make knives in ways that most can only dream about. They make knives that can easily fetch tens of thousands of dollars, and even more. 

Given all that talent, how does a book like this come together? Who gets to decide who is counting among the “Greatest Living Knifemakers” anyway? If you’re someone looking to collect or make knives, you’ll enjoy this interview with the editor of the book, Steve Shackleford, who is also a member of the BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame®.

Many talented people make knives of outstanding quality. How did you go about choosing who should appear in this book?

Steve Shackleford Make Knives
Steve Shackleford

The hardest part was choosing who NOT to include. I’ve been covering the knife industry for BLADE®, the world’s No. 1 knife publication, since 1985, so I’ve had the privilege of seeing and handling some of the world’s greatest knives, and meeting some of the world’s greatest knifemakers.

As a result, some of the makers I picked peaked years ago and don’t even make that many knives anymore. On the other hand, some are peaking now. However, at some point in their careers each has made knives that are among the world’s best.

In addition, each has either made knives and/or introduced designs, techniques, folding mechanisms, damascus or other steels and other materials, etc., that in turn have set a standard or inspired other makers in the way they make knives.

And, of course, to qualify as per the book’s title, each must be living, though Tony Bose passed away after the book was finished. We decided to include him as a tribute to his fantastic slip joints and the overall impact he had on the knife industry, which was and remains monumental.

Book Make Knives
A mechanism that enables the handle to slide back while the blade closes, with the result being that the handle and blade can be the same length, distinguishes Emmanuel’s Mata Hari Dagger. What makes the feature so notable is that the handles of most folding knives must be at least one-half to 1 inch longer than the blades so that the blades will fit into the handles properly. The sliding mechanism is a combo of titanium and stainless steel gears, with the inlays moving on Teflon™ pads. (Francesco Pachi image from 2017 AKI)

What makes a knifemaker “great”?

Some of that is covered in my first answer above but there are other things as well. They must have a lifelong dedication to making knives, which all of those profiled have exhibited, as well as a passion to make knives for much more than just the money.

It’s kind of hard to explain unless you’ve followed knives for a long time, but, in a nutshell, most great knifemakers make knives because they sweat the load, they agonize over the details, and they don’t provide just a “product”—they produce a knife that almost always acts, looks and feels like it’s the best knife that maker makes. There’s much more but that’s part of it.

Are there any names that couldn’t make it into the book due to space limitations?

As noted above, yes, many make knives worthy of inclusion. However, I won’t name names here in case we decide to do a second volume of the book.

Making Make Knives
The Razorback State is the theme for Jerry Fisk’s Arkansas #1. The 11-inch blade has a Dog Star-pattern damascus with 1836 layers to represent the year Arkansas became a state. The blade also has steel welded into it from the Statue of Liberty. The walnut handle is from the official James Black walnut from the cemetery where Black is buried in Historic Washington Arkansas. Some believe Black made a bowie knife for James Bowie. The mountings are fully engraved and carved, including deep relief scrollwork and 24k-gold inlay—all by Jerry. (Whetstone Studio image)

Are the names ranked or is this just a collection of noteworthy knifemakers?

Since they are all great and, as John Wayne’s character once said of two great gunfighters in the movie Rio Bravo, “I’d hate to have to live on the difference,” I decided to list them all in alphabetical order—with the exception of R.J. Martin.

His profile appears first in the book because it is the only profile written by the maker himself. I did not ask him to write it, he volunteered to do it. I was so taken by the quality of his writing and the information he provided on what being a great knifemaker is really like that it was a no-brainer to include it.

In my opinion, it’s one of the best ways for the reader to truly appreciate what it’s like to be a great knifemaker—done from a great knifemaker’s point of view. I think it’s the best profile in the book, hands down.

Make Knives Best
Steve Johnson’s spectacular repro of a Loveless Big Bear sub-hilt fighter is highlighted by Barry Lee Hands engraving that includes 24k-gold inlays and overlays set with diamonds and gilded mother-of-pearl. The knife is made from one block of 5/8-inch thick, 4-inch-wide and 16-inch long CPM 154 stainless steel. The blade is a quarter-inch thick and 8.5 inches long. Overall length: 14 inches. Steve made it for the 2015 Art Knife Invitational. (Francesco Pachi image)

Do great knifemakers have a peak or a golden era within their careers, or are they great throughout their careers?

As with most all great talents, they do indeed seem to peak at certain times. Some peak for longer periods than others and some even seem to have more than one peak. Some may burn out early and then something happens to help them regain their mojo.

However, in most cases the great ones maintain varying levels of greatness throughout their careers, and I think that’s the case with all of those featured in the book.

Is there a list of the knifemakers featured in this book posted somewhere for people to check out?

Yep, right here.

What’s a standout knife for you that’s featured in this book?

I wouldn’t touch that one with a 10-foot blade, other than to say they all stand out.

 

* Greatest Living Knifemakers is available here directly from the publisher.

Tsuba Time: Make a Guard for a Japanese Sword

Wally Hayes Japanese style sword
The tsuba the author made for this story appears on a katana he said he made for Axl Rose of Guns ‘N Roses fame. All photos via the author.

Making a “tsuba,” Japanese for “guard,” is one of my favorite steps in sword making. You have a chance to build something as simple or as complicated and artistic as you like.

I first started making the tsuba (pronounced SUE-ba) way too thick and heavy, and learned over the years how to refine all of my sword parts. I hope this overview helps shed some light on the subject and gives you some ideas.

I have made tsuba from damascus, mild steel, high-carbon steel and antique wrought iron. Many traditional tsuba were made from folded Japanese steel called “tamahagane.” I used wrought iron for this demonstration.

Step One: Thin it Out

Wally Hayes
Photo 1: Wrought iron forged out and rough cut round for the tsuba.

To begin, cut 3.5 inches of steel from an old wagon wheel. Forge it thinner and wider, and taper the edges thinner all the way around (Photo 1). If you leave the center a little thicker and taper the edges, it looks more balanced and is lighter. Wrought iron is soft and forges out easily and is simple to cut, sand, file and drill. Using the spray from a can of WD-40™, trace around your steel. Cut it out on a band saw and grind the shape round. Sand the tapers even, gradually progressing to finer-grit belts.

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 2: Sand the tsuba and start cutting the holes.

Before polishing, I drill the holes (Photo 2). I use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut out the webbing between the holes. You can also try a jeweler’s saw. I use both.

Employing needle files, make the tang hole big enough to slide up to the “sepa” (washer) on the sword. At this point I polish the tsuba to an 800-grit finish.

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 3: Draw the design with a Sharpie® and start engraving.

Depending on how detailed the engraving is, I draw my design on or transfer the design onto the tsuba (Photo 3). This one I drew the design on with a Sharpie® marker. I printed out some of my favorite design pictures to use as a reference.

Engraving and Etching

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 4: Tools of the trade: gravers, chisels, and high-speed air and Dremel® tools.

Now the fun begins: engraving the lines. I use square gravers from GRS and from engraver Steve Lindsey. The new gravers both work great and Steve’s Carbalt gravers got me back into engraving. The tips of standard high-carbon gravers break too often. The new gravers last a long time and take a real beating. I use a Dremel Tool and a high-speed air hand grinder to texture the background (Photo 4).

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 5: Inlay the gold into the tsuba.

If you practice it a lot, gold inlay is easy (Photo 5). First, cut your line with a square graver, then take a small flat chisel and tap it perpendicular along the line to undercut the groove. Raise some burrs along the bottom of the groove, then tap in the 24k-gold wire.

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 6: Texture and carve the background.

After engraving, I etch the tsuba in acid. This brings out the pattern in the wrought iron and resembles damascus somewhat. It gives an old look and feel to the piece. I mix four parts distilled water to one part muriatic acid or ferric chloride. I neutralize the etched steel with Windex® and then lube with WD-40. To bring out the highlights on the engraving, I use a small Cratex® rubber wheel and polish the surface by hand.

When done, I apply Renaissance Wax to keep the tsuba from rusting.

Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 7: Carve the other side of the tsuba.
Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 8: Blue the tsuba with cold gun blue.
Wally Hayes tsuba
Photo 9: Polished, waxed and finished, the tsuba is ready for mounting.

Keep Learning About Making Swords 

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What’s the Best Kind of Knife Grind?

Is There a Perfect Blade Grind?

Who knows when the first argument over the best blade grind started? Most likely it was a conversation between two flintknappers sitting around a cave—and the battle of which grind is the best rages on to this day. The modern tactical and bushcraft movements have brought heated debates on which grind is the best. The grind of a blade is where a key battle is won, and blade geometry varies widely. But is there a so-called best blade grind and, if so, which one is it?

Curved or Flat?

walter brend custom knives
Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice. The man some call the best grinder ever shows his stuff here. (Rodney Hiers image)

According to Wikipedia, blade geometry refers to the “physical properties of a sword blade: cross-section (or grind) and taper.”

You can forget the “sword” qualifier—blade geometry applies to any blade. The three most common blade grinds in use today are hollow, flat and convex, with other grinds of note are the chisel, asymmetrical, Scandi and compound. There are others.

Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of which gave him keen insight into the art of the slice.

“What works for me is the hollow grind,” Brend says. “The hollow-ground blade is not a flat surface, it is concaved, so as you cut an object it immediately starts a separation. The bottom edge should flow from the point to the back of the blade with a recurved blade edge.”

Knifemaker Bob Dozier, well known for making hard-use knives, prefers the hollow grind as well.

“Since I make mostly hunting knives, I prefer the drop-point blade style. Since Bob Loveless popularized the drop point, it’s been the most popular shape for hunting knives for many decades now. Also, for a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer.”

hollow grind blade
Like Walter Brend, Bob Dozier prefers the hollow grind. “For a hunting knife, the hollow grind is the best as it stays thin at the edge much longer,” Dozier opines. Bob’s fixed blade features a nice, clean hollow grind. (Kerry Peal images)

However, that’s not to say Dozier is adverse to other grinds.

“The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” he opines. “A convex grind is great for splitting firewood.”

Award-winning American Bladesmith Society master smith Jim Crowell won the 1st Annual BLADE Show World Championship Cutting Competition in 2003 and was inducted into the ABS Hall of Fame in 2016.

“My opinion for the best blade geometry is a full flat grind with a convex edge,” Crowell begins. “This grind will give the smoothest transition from the full thickness of the spine to the cutting edge—anything else is something less.”

Crowell is also very familiar with the Bill Moran appleseed or convex grind, which is based on the Japanese hamaguri or “clamshell” grind.

“Bill Moran did like full convex blade geometry,” Crowell notes. “He ground on a round wheel and meticulously shaped the whole blade to have a convex cross section. I have cut with several of Bill’s knives and they were very sharp and had great geometry.

“The full convex grind performs in an exemplary manner, but I cannot discern any advantage in performance over a full flat grind with a convex edge. You do not just slap a convex edge on a blade. There are a myriad of variables: how thick was the edge when you started the roll? How high or low did you roll it? A short and abrupt roll may shave but will not cut well at all.”

Bob Dozier custom knifemaker
“The flat grind is the best for the kitchen as it does not wander when making thin slices,” opines Bob Dozier, here busy at his shop grinder. (Pat Covert image)

Degrees of Difficulty

Curious as to the degree of difficulty of applying the various grinds, BLADE® asked Brend, Dozier and Crowell which they thought are the most difficult to execute. They provided varied opinions.

“I think whichever one you do the most is easiest, and the one you do the least is hardest,” Crowell notes. “Once upon a time I used to hollow grind a lot, but then I started to cut a lot and it became apparent to me a flat grind would cut better overall for my use. I gradually phased out hollow grinding and now find it difficult as compared to flat grinding.”

Dozier adds pointedly, “I don’t find any of them hard. I think it depends on how you learn to grind at first. A lot of the makers today learned from someone else and stick with the grind they learned.”

Brend ranked the grinds in order of difficulty.

“Hollow-ground knives, in my opinion, are the hardest to grind,” he begins. “You have to control the blade on a wheel to form a perfect symmetrical line. In my opinion you should keep the point thick, and, at the same time, make your edges sharp and thin.

“Flat ground is next after hollow. In my opinion a true flat-ground blade should be finished by hand because the grinding belt will not allow a true flat surface. Convex is the easiest because you have no set lines or pattern when grinding.”

Order of Importance

best blade grinds
At the grinder here, Bob Dozier says blade geometry is more crucial
in terms of a blade’s cutting performance than the type of steel or
how it is heat treated. “The most important is blade geometry,” he
notes. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do
with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.” (Pat Covert image)

Is blade geometry the most important aspect of a blade’s cutting effectiveness, or is the type of steel or proper heat treating most crucial?

“The most important is blade geometry,” Dozier says. “The type of steel and how it is heat treated has nothing to do with how it cuts, only how long it cuts.”

Crowell differs.

“Heat treat, geometry and steel, in that order,” he opines. “If the heat treat is wrong, the rest will be of little consequence. Proper geometry is next in importance. The steel, although important, is not the determining factor. Of course, you need to have a ‘good’ steel, but it is not the steel that makes the difference. Just because you may have the latest, greatest steel does not mean you will have a superior knife. You have to do it all correctly and in the right order.”

Brend ranks the three differently.

“I think the type of steel is the most important. With proper heat treating you can vary from two-to-four points [on the Rockwell hardness scale] and still cut with the knife because of the type of steel,” he says. “Heat treating is second. With most steels you can be within two points and still cut with the blade. All heat treaters are not the same because of the equipment or their method. Geometry would be the last because if you use the proper steel, you should be able to make any blade work well.”

Flunking Geometry

custom knife mistakes
Uneven grind/plunge lines (right) as seen from the bottom of the blade are one of the more obvious and common things to look for in a bad grind. By contrast, the plunge lines at left are nice and even.

Finally, what makes a bad blade grind?

“What I look for are the grind lines,” Brend explains. “Are the sharp edges of lines rolled? Also, at the back of the blade—where the [grind] line starts—is the steel uneven? I see some hollow grinds where the edges are too thin. If you hit a hard object the blade will chip.”

Opines Dozier: “A poor grind is shown with uneven grind lines, crooked cutting edges or a non-uniform cutting edge.”

“Poor grinding is evidenced by several telltale signs,” Crowell interjects. “Uneven grind/plunge lines as one would look from the bottom of the blade. This is one of the more obvious and common things to look for. Also, the finish on the bottom of the ricasso and choil area is often neglected. You can hold a blade horizontal and look down the flat of the bevel and it should be smooth as glass with no ripples or distortions.”

Jim also notes that on symmetrical patterns such as daggers, look for mirrored-image grinds on both sides of the blade.

One interesting takeaway: The perfect grind may just be determined by how you plan to use your knife—or perhaps you may need two or more knives to cover all the bases.

 

Keep Learning About Knifemaking

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