Knifemaking

Knifemaking is the building of a knife, which includes the blade, handle and other accouterments. Blades are made by either removing metal from a steel blank via a grinder – known as stock removal – and the forging to shape of hot steel into a blade in the process known as bladesmithing. Other parts, including bolsters, guards, pommels, etc., are needed to complete the finished knife.

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How to Make Better Bolsters

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by John Lewis Jensen

First Steps Toward a Beauty of a Bolster

Because my work is so complicated, my first step is to draw and refine everything on paper, working out all of the issues in terms of design and proportions. Once this is done, I make about six Xerox copies of the drawing that will be cut and pasted to material as needed.

In the case of these bolsters, I had Timascus on hand already. It came precision-milled from the supplier in a 1/8-inch thickness. However, as you can see in the accompanying photo, there are some rough tooling marks that should be eliminated. The smoother the contact surfaces are to other contact surfaces, the tighter the overall fit of the knife parts. It is important and critical, to me anyway, that components be “air tight,” and that there are absolutely no visual gaps between materials.

I hand sand the flats. Even though I am technically using the 4-inch-by-36-inch belt sander, I am not turning it on, as that would be a bit too aggressive in this case. The piece is small and would be hard to hold against a moving belt. It could easily get away from me, which could damage the piece and/or my hands! I simply hand sand it with even pressure on a 320-grit sanding belt.

 

I’m not trying, in particular, to remove thickness, only to eliminate the slightly irregular tool marks. This takes a bit of elbow grease, especially with the material being titanium. I just want to smooth out the surface. I have carefully cut out the bolster section from my overall drawing and double-stick taped this shape down to the topside of the raw material that I want to be my front bolster.

As you can see in the accompanying photo, I have smoothed the surface. You can see the grit marks of the sanding belt, but the bolster material is certainly smooth and flat to the touch and sight. The process is repeated for both bolsters.

How to Make a High-Tech Folder

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by Allen Elishewitz

There are many methods to build a knife and there is no wrong way to do it. You can use anything from simple hand tools to industrial machines. The method I have chosen for readers to follow allows for a high-tech folder to be fashioned with either simple or large industrial-type machines, the latter of which are like the ones I own.

The fancy locking-liner folder that has resulted from this step-by-step instructional is completely handmade. The reason I choose to build all my knives in such a manner is because it gives me, the knifemaker, more flexibility in my production method. It also allows the knife to take on more of an individual and unique appearance.

 

Keep in mind that, due to space limitations, there are quite a few small steps that I have excluded. I will do my best to mention them but I will concentrate on the most important aspects of making a high-tech locking-liner folder.

For this project, the knife has titanium bolsters, a carbon fiber handle and a damascus blade. The locking-liner folder integrates a classical handle/bolster combination that, to build it, entails an intermediate level of difficulty. What makes the folder more complicated to build than other plain-handle knives is the introduction of the bolsters. The bolsters add just one more aspect to handle construction, and the alignment of the bolsters and handle material must be constantly maintained during the knife assembly.

History of the Japanese Knifemakers Guild

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In this clip (1 of 5 in a series), Murray Carter and his guest talk with Okayasu Kazuo in October, 2010, at his knife shop in Tokyo. Kazuo played a critical role in the Japanese Knifemakers Guild since its founding in 1978.

Jon P. Moore shows how to stain curly maple wood knife handle

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This is a “how to stain curly maple wood” tutorial, Jon P. Moore shows what stain to use, how to prepare the wood and what to use for a gloss finish on one of his custom knives. The finished knife is shown at the end of the video.

BLADE did a quick interview with Jon about hand cleanup after rubbing the oil into the wood handles.

Editor Steve Shackleford: “Good video, Jon. Short and to the point. Those are the best kind. Question for you. When you rub the oil into the handle so aggressively with your bare hands, are there any dangers of harmful effects to you from absorbing the oil into your skin? Do you wash your hands with some kind of solvent or some such afterward?”

Jon: “Steve, the ‘Tru-Oil’ is weird stuff, I ran out of time on the video. It dries so fast, I don’t believe much, if any, is absorbed into the skin. I spray WD-40 on my hands, then wipe them with a paper towel, and my hands are completely clean, dry and not tacky. I had to edit that part out for time. I was told, this is a ‘hand rub finish’ done by custom gun builders. As for long term effects, I don’t know.”

Paul Bos Still Active in Heat Treating

Although formally retired from his full-time role as head of heat treat for Buck Knives, Paul Bos continues to pursue the passion that captivated him as a 9th grader, many years ago.

         The Blade Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame© member still fills an advisory role for Buck, where his protege Paul Farner now directs the daily heat-treat operation at Buck’s Post Falls, Idaho, plant. In addition, Bos still is taking blades for treating from the many knifemakers he’s known and served for as many as 20 to 30 years, and longer.

         “After all these years of friendship and working relationships, it’s satisfying to know that we can continue to provide the same specialized heat-treat service custom knifemakers have come to expect,” Bos said. “I’ve heard that my ‘retirement’ misled some, but Paul Bos Heat Treating is very much alive and well.”

         For a brochure and price list, call or e-mail Paul Farner: (208) 262-0500, ext. 21; [email protected].

                                                  #       #      #

Photo Attached: Paul Bos

Paul Bos Heat Treating–  Paul Farner, e-mail [email protected] Phone 208-262-0500 Ext.21

                                              Paul Bos e-mail [email protected] Phone 928-237-1656

Mike Searson Interviews Derrick Obatake of SteelFlame

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Mike Searson interviews Derrick Obatake from SteelFlame. They talk about how Derrick got started, some designs and the USN gathering.

For a full transcript of this interview (the video doesn’t show the whole thing), click here to read more from Mike.

Best method to stabilize wood handles?

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This helpful conversation is excerpted from a thread on a previous version of blademag.com. It’s posted here for reference.

Bear Goode:

What is your preferd method of stabilizing wood for handle’s & or sheaths?

Dallas Dreger:

2 methods I use,,,After completeing the knife and the handle is sanded to the point that I am stisfied,,,I sink it into a can of mixed boiled linseed oil and turpintine,,,50/50 mix for a few day. Thes after removing,,polish off the till dry,,,wait another day for it to dry and you will find there is a light coat of oil again that is sticky,,polish this off and a light buff wiht a clean rag and it sould be stbilized for a long time. This doesnt make a real shiney finish but it does harden a fair ammount and still has a natural wood feel to it. This is the meathod I like for everyday working knnives.  2 when the knife is allmost finished and rthe handle is sanded to a 220 grit,,sink into a jar or can of minwax wood hardener for a few days. ,,remove and wipe clean.  A day later you can sand to a 400 grit or higher. This will take more of a shine when you polish on a buffing wheel but not as good as a vacume stabilized handles. I like the first method best but this does make a little bit harder handle if thats what you are looking for. I dont care for vacume stablized handle slabs s I have had a few in teh past cack or chip on me but I do realize some folks like that mirror shine to the complete knife. For a hard use working knife use the first method,,,for a lighter duty knife where a light shine is desired,,,use method 2 and for teh high shine,,,send your handle material way to become professionly stabalized. unless you make a proper stabilizing setup

Bear Goode:

My  preferred method is using minwax wood hardner.On plain slabs(this will darken the wood,about as much as putting a bit of spit on the wood)I will put slabs in the wood hardener.A shallow dish works fine. I then use a foodsaver to vacume solution  into the wood. I like to leave the wood under vacume for a couple of hours then, revacume the whole shabang once more & leave overnight. After removing the vacume bag the next day,The wood hardner will dry in about 2 hours. I like to give it 24 hours to dry to be on the safe side.The food saver will not have enough vacume pressure to do wood blocks,only handle slabs. I will on thicker sections (wood blocks)|work the wood to about the almost finished size then run it through the vacume of the foodsaver. then after all is done I will give a last rubbed coat of the hardner before final sanding & buffing. I have also used this process with Watco danish oil with good success.

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