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Brisket Knife: These Carving Blades Are Bad To The Bone

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Prepare massive meat feast with one of these barbecue beasties at hand.

The barbecue/brisket knife is an indispensable tool for those who prepare brisket and other large-scale meat dishes. Makers go the extra mile to provide the toughness and tensile strength needed, along with a tip that stays sturdy to separate meat and prepare it for serving. Individual recipes include the good looks and visual appeal that make owning and using the best in such knives a pleasure.

Ben Anderson: Brisket Slicers For The Barbie

Ben Anderson forged the 12.6-inch blade of his Mosaic Brisket Slicer
Ben Anderson forged the 12.6-inch blade of his Mosaic Brisket Slicer from 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. Done in the Japanese wa (octagonal) style, the handle is ringed gidgee with a damascus spacer. Overall length: 19.7 inches. (Rod Hoare image)

Ben Anderson of Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia, features his artisan’s perspective in two beauties that allow form and function to seamlessly blend. He calls both brisket slicers, and in each case he has styled the big carbon steel blade for use with large pieces of meat. One features a blade of 52100 high carbon steel, handle of ironwood and ebony with textured and filed brass spacer, overall length of 27.5 inches, blade of 19.7 inches, and leather sheath. The second is a stunning piece with a 12.6-inch blade of mosaic damascus in 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels, and a handle of ringed gidgee with a damascus spacer. Overall length: 19.7 inches.

“The blade shape just seems to be a favorite of the brisket guys [in Australia],” Ben commented. “I think people like it because it’s just an aggressive-looking shape that’s a bit reminiscent of a katana. Most of my time as a maker I’ve offered full customization for my clients, so this really pushed me to try all different shapes, sizes and color combinations.”

A custom knifemaker for about six years now, Anderson uses precision specifications in crafting his brisket knives to perform. “On my standard kitchen knives I’ve always aimed for a ricasso height of around 18 millimeters [.7 inch], which made my handles around 20 millimeters [.79 inch] tall at the front and tapered out to around 5 millimeters [.196 inch] bigger at the back. On the bigger brisket knives I aimed for a ricasso height of around 23 millimeters [.9 inch], which made the handles around 25 millimeters [.98 inch] tall at the front and again tapered to around 5 to 7 millimeters [.196 to .275 inch] bigger at the back. I like to scale the handles up with the blades,” he noted, “so it all looks in proportion. It also helps with the balance a bit.”

Ben Anderson’s brisket slicer is one in a 19.7-inch blade of 52100 carbon steel
Yet another example of Ben Anderson’s brisket slicer is one in a 19.7-inch blade of 52100 carbon steel, and an ironwood and ebony handle with a textured, filed brass spacer. Overall length: 27.5 inches. (Rod Hoare image)

Anderson’s brisket knives have found their way into competitions with a customer who uses them to prep and slice. Ben’s maintenance and upkeep includes Renaissance Wax for long-term storage after a good cleaning. For everyday servicing a bees wax or mineral oil wipe down for the handle works best.

Of course, since Ben is Australian, his take on the barbecue event itself is enlightening. “A barbecue here is often as simple as a 24-pack of sausages and a loaf or two of bread and some basically burnt-to-a-crisp onion,” he laughed. “As for myself, I’m usually pretty happy with a simple steak and sausages.”

Peter Pruyn: San-Mai Slicer

Peter Pruyn’s brisket slicer
Peter Pruyn’s brisket slicer is designed for slicing large pieces of beef. It has a long, thin, Granton-style blade with a tad of distal taper and vertical scallops its entire length. The Granton blade is ideal for cutting large pieces of meat, and the handle supports slicing with a pulling motion. His price for a similar knife: $1,000. (SharpByCoop image)

Peter Pruyn of Grant’s Pass, Oregon, recently produced a brisket slicer that is pleasing to work with and also admire next to the cutting board. His 13-inch blade in a stainless/high-carbon san-mai construction of respective 416 and 52100 steels is complemented by a handle of his favorite handle material from Voodoo Resins, and a copper spacer. Overall length: 18 inches. A zippered, padded pouch is included.

The pouch, Pete says, is more practical in a kitchen setting and protects the knife. If the knife is included in a set, his preference for protection is a leather knife roll.

“This particular knife is designed for slicing large pieces of beef,” Pruyn related. “I made it for a customer who uses it for commercial-size briskets. When I needed to design a knife for that purpose, I called a friend, Rob Baptie, who barbecues and cooks briskets and other meats professionally. He described a very long, thin blade with a little distal taper and vertical scallops the entire length of the blade. Often referred to as a Granton-style blade, it has a handle that supports slicing with a pulling motion.”

Peter forged the blade to about 1/8-inch thick. “The 52100 has always been an excellent steel for butcher and chef’s knives due to its abrasion resistance, and it takes an excellent edge and retains it very well. The stainless protects the core steel and makes it easier to maintain,” he observed. “I also etched the blade, which makes the 52100 more rust resistant, like a forced patina.”

The Voodoo Resins handle material is easy to work with and extremely durable. “It doesn’t change with time, temperature or humidity,” Peter said. “Its creator, Matt Peterson, made a custom color for this knife, which was part of a 14-piece set. For the bolsters I chose copper more for its aesthetic appeal with the other materials than anything else. When you make a custom knife for something like this you have to think about how it looks and not just a comfortable handle and a practical, durable design. It’s part of the whole package.”

Matt Williams: Barbecue Balance

Brisket knife cutting meat
The BBQ Chef’s Knife by Matt Williams is a meat-slicing machine. He outfits it in a 9-inch blade of 400-layer damascus forged from 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels, and a handle of spalted pecan and cedar elm with a white oak dowel. Overall length: 15 inches. His price for a similar knife: $750. (SharpByCoop knife image)

A heavy chef’s knife with a santoku influence was the goal for Matt Williams of Bastrop, Texas, with his beauty of 400-layer random-pattern damascus in 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels. The blade is 9 inches long and the handle is spalted pecan, cedar elm and a white oak dowel in a combination that evokes the maker’s woodworking skills. His knives are influenced by feedback from customers who have told him what they really want in a solid performing knife. His price for his BBQ Chef’s Knife starts at $750.

“The blade’s distal taper is .169 to .05 inch,” Matt noted, “and this distal allows for some more delicate work to be done at the end of the blade. Sometimes you need to slice up some peppers or dice up something tasty. The handle is long to balance the heavy blade out. It’s thin because I like wa [octagonal] handles, and this is my interpretation done on a wood lathe. I turn the whole handle and the dowel. I harvest, mill and stabilize most of my wood. They are all local hardwoods. I know these woods well and their capacities.”

When designing his BBQ Chef’s Knife, Matt relies more heavily on balance than weight. His perspective counts on a solid feel in a pinch grip. “Prepping 200 fruit and veggie trays in eight hours will test your wrist,” he smiled. “I learned not to fight a forward-leaning blade. I worked in food prep when I was younger and I have always been drawn to this shape for its overall utility.

“I want the knife to slice well through meat and to be able to break a joint,” he concluded. “Afterwards, it will also look pretty next to a pile of barbecue!”

Editor’s note: Due to fluid market conditions, all prices listed are subject to change. Please check with the applicable maker for the latest in pricing.

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Hawaii Continues Balisong Battle In Courts

Knife Rights reported on September 22 that Hawaii had petitioned the Ninth Circuit Court for a rehearing en banc in an attempt to overturn a recent 3-0 panel decision that ruled the state’s balisong ban unconstitutional under the Second Amendment.

The panel decision in favor of the appellants in Teter v. Lopez was a big win for Second Amendment (2A) supporters. However, the decision would be rendered moot if the Ninth Circuit grants Hawaii’s petition for the en banc rehearing and then the state is somehow able to have the decision overturned.

Among other unconstitutional assertions, Hawaii’s petition claims that only weapons “commonly used for self-defense” are 2A protected. As Knife Rights (KR) points out, such a claim was refuted by the U.S. Supreme Court decision in New York State Rifle & Pistol Association, Inc. v. Bruen, which established that arms usable for “any lawful purpose” are 2A protected and not just those used “commonly for self-defense.”

Hawaii’s petition includes the dishonest claim, “If left undisturbed, the panel’s analysis will govern challenges involving many highly dangerous weapons that States quite reasonably seek to regulate or ban: assault weapons, high-capacity magazines, and more.”

The state’s insinuation that a balisong is “a highly dangerous weapon” is ludicrous and unsupported by the facts. Where are all the instances and facts and figures of balisongs being highly dangerous? I’ve watched 13-year-olds-and-up flip balisongs for the past seven years at Blade HQ’s Battle for Bali-Champion at the BLADE Show, not to mention the West Coast Flipping Championships conducted by Squid Industries at BLADE Show West, and I’ve yet to see any “highly dangerous weapon” activity in any of them. Besides, if such contests were full of activity involving “highly dangerous weapons”—especially when youngsters are actively involved—not only would show officials cancel them but the venues hosting the shows would forbid them as well, something none of them have done.

BLADE Show's first balisong competition
BLADE Show 2017 hosted its first-ever balling competition coordinated by Blade HQ.

Adding to the absurdity of the state’s petition is its not-so-veiled attempt to include balisongs in the ambiguous world of “assault weapons.” “Assault weapon” is one of those anti-2A boogeyman catchall terms that has never been adequately defined for legal or legislative purposes by anyone or anything at any time—in large part because millions of items, from human fists to automobiles, are used as assault weapons. As a result, any law-abiding judge should reject any petition containing the term “assault weapon” as legally null and void due to its use of indefinable, overly inclusive language.

At press time, KR indicated the next step was for the petition to be circulated to all active Ninth Circuit judges and any senior judge who chose to participate. As KR noted, it was likely that the appellants would be required to respond to the petition about why the court should not rehear the case, though the judges could just vote on it instead. “Odds are that sooner or later the court will vote to rehear the case,” KR noted on its website, kniferights.org, “but we’ll see.”

If you live in Hawaii, contact your state officials and tell them to pull all the strings they can to uphold the panel’s decision asserting that the bali ban is unconstitutional. Meanwhile, stay tuned to KR’s website for updates.
Considering the left-leaning history of the Ninth Circuit Court, this decision has huge precedent-setting implications.

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Cool Custom: Derick Kemper’s Scottish Dirk

A bonnie blade to be sure, Kemper makes a statement with his Scottish dirk.

Derick Kemper celebrates his Scottish heritage with his sprawling reproduction of a Scottish dirk. It’s overstated to salute the legend and lore of his Scottish Highlander ancestors who fought so valiantly for their independence from Great Britain, beginning with the Jacobite rising of 1745.

The edge of the stunning damascus blade is a simple twist pattern of W2 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels. The three bars above it are Derick’s version of Robert Eggerling’s paisley pattern—a modified twist of 203E carbon steel for the bright section and W2 and 15N20 as well.

The habaki has Derick’s Damselfly Forge stamp of two damselflies and his initials in the middle engraved on one side, and the white rose of Scotland’s “Bonnie Prince Charlie” (1720-1788) on the other.

Derick Kemper
Derick Kemper

The chess-piece-like handle is oversized as well, with the pommel engraved in Latin, Qui Optime Regnare Ius Habet. The English translation is “Who hath best right to reign,” a slogan that appeared on the flags and accouterments of many of the Highlanders in the 18th century.

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Carrigan Knife: Is It A James Black Original?

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In the author’s view, the Carrigan has tells that prove James Black made it.

The work of James Black is iconic. Once you’ve seen one of his knives, you’re not likely to forget it. While a casual observer sees a steel blade that’s well formed and a coffin-shaped handle with black walnut and silver trim nicely complementing each other, informed observers see much more.  

Consider yourself more than just a casual observer. You study the knife in every detail. A steady stream of questions begins to cross your mind. You may contemplate the time period, the location and the tools by which the knife came to be.

Why did the knifemaker do this? What were his thoughts when doing that? What factors prompted the design? What subtleties of design did Mr. Black discern and were there any he learned along the way?

I am not a casual observer when it comes to the work of James Black. In fact, I am among “the birds that have flocked together” to study his work. Our group has been studying and gathering data to serve as a baseline for future revelations that may occur pertaining to historic knives. The database can be used to aid in authenticating existing as well as newly discovered knives thought to have been made by Black.

While our group includes collectors, engineers, historians and archaeologists, it also includes knifemakers. The perspective of each adds invaluable insight to the discussion. And oh, what a discussion it is!

What Is The Carrigan Knife?

For several years I was fortunate to have been the resident knifemaker for the Historic Arkansas Museum in Little Rock, Arkansas. It is a rich environment to learn and observe examples of historic knives, among which are some examples of Black’s work. Noteworthy among those is the Carrigan Knife.

Its historic provenance is solid, pointing directly to Black as being the maker. Since Black did not mark his work by stamping his name on it, the reliable historic provenance of the Carrigan Knife is of even more importance—in fact, it’s pivotal to the attribution of any other possible Black knives. Once determined to be authentic, the other knives in the museum’s collection, or elsewhere, can be attributed to Black as well.  

Consider Image 1 (top of page). The knife in the middle is the Carrigan, known to have been made by Black. It has provenance. What about the ones on either side? Do they have rock-solid provenance? No.

In the eyes of the museum curatorial staff as well as in the context of this discussion, an object’s provenance is important. However, some of the knives attributed to Black, while not having direct provenance, have circumstantial provenance.  Does this lessen their value in the historical narrative? No. If determined to be authentic, they are just as important. Even a newly discovered knife with no provenance at all may indeed be authenticated to have been made by Black.

Being able to determine the authenticity of a possible Black-made knife, apart from provenance, would require an examination of the knife. The examiner would need to have intimate knowledge of details and factors unique to Black’s body of work.

Lin Rhea forging
For several years the author was the resident knifemaker for the Historic Arkansas Museum in Little Rock, Arkansas, home to a number of authentic 1830s and other vintage bowies. (B. R. Hughes image)

In Image 1 you can’t help seeing the obvious relationship between the three knives. While they are not identical, they are so similar that it would be logical to assume they were made by the same hands. While those things are compelling to the belief that Black made all three, much more must be considered to authenticate a knife as his work. Some of those considerations follow.

Any maker’s work, whether currently or in the 1830s, will exhibit common features that, in some way, set the work apart as different from others. Some features may be noticeably subtle and some radically bold. Bold features can be imitated to a degree by others. The subtle features often go unnoticed and are much more difficult to imitate. Black’s body of work exhibits several features that tie the individual knives together circumstantially. Some features are subtle, some bold.

In Image 1 you can easily observe the bold features common to each individual knife, such as the dark handle scales, the silver trim, the coffin-shaped handles, etc. However, to authenticate them as being made by the same maker requires familiarity with that maker’s known body of work and an opportunity to document the features.

The features may be construction techniques or tool marks that are the same from knife to knife. Documenting the common features involves quite a lot. It implies that multiple knives are closely examined for these common features. In some cases, the common features can only be seen through modern technology such as X-rays or other forms of testing.

It is not known how many knives Black made but there’s enough in existence to create a problem of logistics. The knives that are thought to be authentic Black knives are scattered over several states. Getting them together has been tough but we’ve had some success thanks to the knives’ respective owners. The trust and support they’ve shown to the research group is very gratifying.

As you probably have noticed I’ve been very careful with my words since it’s not my place to share too much out of respect to the owners. Some details that are important in matters of authentication shouldn’t be divulged. Lack of these invisible details wouldn’t prevent a modern maker from faithfully reproducing a knife of the style. Remember, imitation is flattery but counterfeiting is illegal. Counterfeiting has been done and there are cases where collectors have been duped. Makers should always mark their work. 

Tells Of An Original James Black Knife

All this said, there are things “invisible” that we can discern by observation. In Image 2 (below), an illustration by Steve Hotz, notice that the construction assembly of the Carrigan Knife is comprised of three basic layers: the blade and two handle scales.

While there are three basic layers, each layer can have other parts that contribute to the overall knife. For example, the blade’s tang has additional pieces of silver: one on the ricasso and one each wrapped around the top and bottom of the spine. These serve as a soft bed for the scales to sit on. While thin, these wraps of silver can be filed flat for a good fit of the right- and left-hand scales. They extend back to where the maker chooses to put the silver pommel wrap. The blade tang is also bored for the pin holes to attach the scales. Moreover, the scales have front caps that are flush fit so the scale will lay flat, as well as escutcheon plates apparently individually mounted to the scale independent of the layer’s assembly. When the three basic layers are completed and prepared sufficiently, the scales, which are drilled to fit the tang, can be assembled to the blade and the capped pins installed as well as the pommel wrap.

The construction assembly of the Carrigan Knife
IMAGE 2: The construction assembly of the Carrigan Knife is comprised of three basic layers: the blade and two handle scales. Each layer can have other parts that contribute to the overall knife. For example, the blade’s tang has additional pieces of silver: one on the ricasso and one each wrapped around the top and bottom of the spine. (Steve Hotz illustration)

What I’ve described is the general assembly of Black’s Carrigan Knife.* The entire blade’s steel tang is covered by a protective layer of silver along with the wood scales. Considering the lack of modern epoxies and rust-resistant steels, I consider Black’s logic and resourcefulness very impressive. He strategically placed the silver on each of the three layers so that, when assembled, they meet and provide protection for the knife’s steel full tang, as well as an aesthetically pleasing appearance.  

Historically, a blacksmith shop may have had a post drill and some early machinery available. I can reasonably assume that Black had some of this equipment too, but I have no way of being sure. Where we today would likely grind a part, Black may have filed it. To save filing he probably forged very close to finish before filing. We today may skip the forging stage entirely if required and still be able to reproduce a close facsimile of his knife. For every step of his process, we bladesmiths and/or knifemakers can transpose a modern technique or tool.  

Picture of assembled Carrigan Knife
When the three basic layers are completed and prepared sufficiently, the scales, which are drilled to fit the tang, can be assembled to the blade and the capped pins installed, as well as the pommel wrap. The result is the completed Carrigan Knife. (Steve Hotz illustration)

Black’s process was an interactive, emergent one. The second step emerged from the first. The third step emerged and interacted with the first two steps, and so on. In other words, it was not precision technology as we commonly see today where the parts can interchange from one knife to the next. Emergent technology enabled a craftsman to create complex designs with a reasonable expectation of consistency, albeit not precision.

Again, study the three knives in Image 1. Although they are not identical, you can see the family resemblance. It was a structured process that was organized to lead to a predictable result. On top of that, Black was taking only three materials—steel, wood and silver—and creating a process that makes sense. Considering the relative lack of resources and technology, I think he did well to even create a knife. But he did much more.  

When thinking of Black’s work, think not only of his knife design but his process design. It’s his process design that made his knife design repeatable. Modern knifemakers can learn from him in that regard.

Three Questions To Consider

In closing, following are three questions to ponder. The first two are for all of you and the third is for the bladesmiths and/or knifemakers among you.

  1. If given a limited number of resources, would you be able to make a knife?  
  2. If given these limitations, would you be able to design a knifemaking process? 
  3. In your knifemaking endeavors, how much of your process is an imitation of others and how much is yours?

*Author’s note: I have not gone into detail on each of the individual parts and how Black performed these steps for two reasons: 1) I can only observe the appearance of the knife and speculate on his exact techniques, and
2) It would only serve the purpose of counterfeiters.

Editor’s note: While BLADE® recognizes the author’s superior knowledge concerning the provenance of the Carrigan and other knives attributed to James Black by the author and others, BLADE continues to stipulate that for BLADE to recognize that a knife was made by a specific maker, the knife must bear the specific maker’s name or mark. The presence of such a mark does not necessarily prove the knife was indeed made by the person or company marked, but the absence of a mark is enough to preclude BLADE from attributing the knife’s make to any person, company, etc. Since, as far as we know, Black did not mark his knives, BLADE does not attribute the make of any specific knife to him. That doesn’t mean BLADE is right or wrong, it’s simply our policy concerning the matter. To be both fair and accurate to all, it is a policy we apply not just to Black but to all knives and all knifemakers.

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Tactical Fixed Blade Knife Buyer’s Guide

These tactical fixed blade knives are set to conquer the most extreme tasks.

When the Gulf War took off in Iraq in the early 1990s, the knife industry took off, too, and a steady stream of tactical fixed blades has surfed the wave ever since.

Needless to say, there are military fixed blades aplenty in the cutlery industry with no single design or manufacturer having a chokehold on today’s market. This has given knife users an abundance of choices, from pure fighters to utility users and everything in between.

A diverse quartet of the genre includes the Condor Fighter Knife, Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade, KA-BAR/John Ek Commando Short Clip and Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter. To determine their strengths and weaknesses, the first order of business was a common test for penetration.

Testing

I set up a heavy-duty corrugated-board box with a 1-inch Styrofoam™ liner made for shipping frozen foods. I tested each knife by thrusting the blade into the side of the box forcefully, and then pushing it through from a standstill with the tip resting on the box. All the knives penetrated the thick, layered material with ease—not surprising considering they have either clip-point or tanto blade patterns, both adept at stabbing. There was very little differential from one model to the next. What follows is a look at each knife and how it performed other chores.

Condor Tool & Knife Fighter Knife

Condor Fighter
The author took the Condor to task batonning a length of seasoned hardwood with good effect. According to him, “This is one versatile knife that even a bushcrafter would love.”

Condor Tool & Knife specializes in bang-for-the-buck blades and the Fighter Knife is no exception. Indeed, it is the most affordable of the test group. From the side the knife appears to be pudgy but it is actually quite nimble. The clip-point blade has jimping on the rear of the spine for enhanced purchase on detail cuts.

The tan handle is hidden tang in construction with a fine stippled surface texture, an ample palm swell in the middle and a lanyard loop. The exposed steel at the butt can be used for hammering. The sheath is MOLLE compatible, injection molded and features a black leather drop loop.

The knife easily switches from combat to field chores—not surprising as the company specializes in both. The wider blade is similar to that of many field knives, as is its deep grind. Slicing 3/8-inch rappelling rope and taking curls for firestarter were a breeze. I set the blade across the end of a 15-inch piece of tough seasoned hardwood, 25/8 inches across, and drove it clean through. This is a rugged knife. The sheath is relatively unobtrusive and rides about 2 inches above the beltline.

Condor Fighter Knife Specs
Blade length: 4.91”
Blade material: 1075 carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat w/secondary bevel
Blade finish: Black Cerakote®
Handle length: 4.83”
Handle material: Tan polypropylene
Weight: 8.82 ozs.
Overall length: 9.74”
Sheath: Tan polypropylene/leather belt strap
Country of origin: El Salvador
MSRP: $100

KA-BAR John Ek Commando Short Clip

Ka-Bar Commando Shor Clip
The Commando Short Clip tackled a 2.75-inch-diameter chub of summer sausage admirably. The blade is 5.125 inches of 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel, a time-proven KA-BAR favorite.

The John Ek Commando Short Clip is one in a series of military-type models KA-BAR Knives offers by the cutlery legend. This one is all black and a timeless, no-nonsense John Ek design. The blade is complemented by a 4.125-inch “stick” handle with scales affixed by big, fat screws, an Ek hallmark. The blade clip breaks with a slight harpoon kick, which I’m not sure Ek ever used, though it works wickedly, and there’s a short guard below the blade. The symmetrical handle has a lanyard hole at the butt. All of this is delivered with a modern, MOLLE-compatible sheath.

KA-BAR has done an admirable job picking up the John Ek banner and blending the old with the new. The Commando Short Clip’s narrow blade—1.31 inches wide—proved proficient at slicing. I tested it on paracord, 3/8-inch rappelling rope and a large round of 2.75-inch summer sausage, and it did a masterful job of tackling them all. It is a combat knife at heart and its light weight is not as skillful at tough field chores like hacking wood, but that’s not its department.

The handle is fine for small and medium hands but could be a challenge for those with large ones. The modern sheath is very well done and rides with the butt of the handle just above the waistband. Overall, this modern take on a classic leans toward a combat knife with enough utility to get you by.

KA-BAR/Ek Commando Short Clip Specs
Blade length: 5.125”
Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat
Blade finish: Black powder coat
Handle length: 4.125”
Handle material: Polymer
Weight: 10.4 ozs.
Overall length: 9.25”
Sheath: Black polymer Celcon/MOLLE compatible
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $155

Emerson Knives CQC-7

CQC-7 Fixed Blade
The CQC-7 Fixed Blade has an appetite for slicing and slashing. The 154CM stainless steel tanto blade was extremely sharp and penetrated both layers of the shipping box with controlled slices.

The Emerson Knives CQC-7 Fixed Blade hasn’t gotten a lot of face time because the overwhelming amount of tactical knife coverage of the company is devoted to folders. It’s the way of the world. The Emerson is the shortest of the review subjects and is also the one that tilts more toward being a pure combat knife—something its designer, martial arts specialist/custom knifemaker/cutlery entrepreneur Ernest Emerson, knows a thing or two about. The tanto blade sports a flat V-grind and a stonewashed finish. The blade has three straight grinds: the main edge, tip grind and a clipped saber grind. An Emerson Wave shape on the rear of the blade spine serves as a thumb ramp. The handle has a nice palm swell, a symmetrical dimpled texture for enhanced purchase and a lanyard hole in the butt.

The blade’s 7/16-inch edge grind was delivered wicked sharp and I took it to task slicing one of my favorites, 3/8-inch rappelling rope. The rope is extremely strong because lives depend on it. In one test I pulled the edge through three consecutive cross sections of rope. The drag on the blade was much less than I normally encounter—a pleasant surprise. It slashed the corrugated board outer layer into the Styrofoam effortlessly, and when I slowed the process down with a little more pressure, it dug through the foam as well. The sheath is a study in minimalism, but that’s what you want when concealment is at a premium.

Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade Specs
Blade length: 4.125”
Blade steel: 154CM stainless
Blade grind: V-grind
Blade finish: Stonewashed
Handle length: 4.625”
Handle material: Black G-10 composite
Weight: 5.86 ozs.
Overall length: 8.75”
Sheath: Black Kydex®
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $237.95

Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter

Harsey Fighter
The Harsey Fighter’s ample 5.35-inch handle has black G-10 scales with a ribbed pattern machined into the surface. The flare atop the handle offers excellent finger protection and the grip accommodates the biggest of mitts.

A goodly portion of observers seem to believe the Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter is noted knifemaker Bill Harsey’s consummate work and, though he has a load of nice designs in his stable, I wouldn’t argue. It is the largest of the test knives and a blend of modern styling with traditional cues. It is the Pineland Cutlery version manufactured by KA-BAR under the Spartan label.
The clip-point blade has a fuller that butts up against the ricasso. The handle surface boasts a diagonal rib pattern for enhanced grip and an ample lanyard hole at the butt. The sheath has a fabric-fastener drop loop and retention strap. There’s also a swing-out lock at the rear guard that secures the knife in the main body of the sheath.

It’s amazing what a couple of inches in length, a couple of ounces in weight, plus an extra inch in the handle add to the versatility of a knife. That’s on average what the Harsey Fighter has over the other knives tested. This is not a knock on the others, just the advantage of having more knife.

For chopping ability I tested the blade on a thick-skinned cantaloupe. I had to chop the melon off center to clear the handle but the blade made its point in one fell swoop. The extra weight allowed me to tackle tougher chores and the added blade length made for excellent slicing and hacking. You can clear a camp with the Harsey Fighter. The comfortably sculpted handle can accommodate the largest of hands and the upper flare offers good finger protection. The sheath is very well made but the guard lock takes some getting used to and is one added step for a quick draw. All in all, the Harsey Fighter earned its mettle in spades.

Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter Specs
Blade length: 6.125”
Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel
Blade grind: Flat
Blade finish: Black powder coat
Handle length: 5.35”
Handle material: Black G-10 composite
Weight: 11.5 ozs.
Overall length: 11.5”
Sheath: Black polymer/nylon belt loop/MOLLE compatible
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $195

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Benchmade 940 Review: EDC Knife By The Numbers

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Does it deserve its reputation as a definitive EDC knife?

What makes a great EDC folder?

Well, the obvious would be a highly useful blade shape paired with an ergonomically shaped handle. Then, make both out of high-grade materials for durability and longevity. It wouldn’t hurt to have a popular knifemaker scratch up the design and make certain the QA is in line.

Put together this amalgamation and the result might just be the Benchmade 940.

Designed by the late Warren Osborne, the production knife is some somewhat an outlier in his portfolio. The Texas maker is perhaps best known for his high-dollar art knives favored by discriminating collectors around the world.  Osborne’s 940 design was refreshingly non-tactical, especially for a company who a large presence in this niche.

Benchmade 940 half open
A top seller for Benchmade, the 940 has come to help define EDC knives. Photo: Marty Stanfield

Furthermore, it has a broad appeal for those who are serious about their daily carry knife checking all the boxes. It’s no stretch to call the 940 a workhorse of a folding knife.

Since its introduction in the early 2000s, the Benchmade knife’s popularity has skyrocketed to the point it has a sort of cult following. We’re going to take an in-depth look at why this is so. It is why the 940 might even be worth adding to your collection.  

Benchmade 940 Blade

The blade profile of the 940 is a reverse tanto, in which the edge and spine of the classic tanto design are flipped. However, it does somewhat look like a clip-point blade, albeit one with an extremely abbreviated downward-sloping tip.

Measuring 3.4 inches long, the blade uses CPM S30V premium stainless steel for the ultimate edge-holding capabilities. The alloy provides the muscle required for most daily cutting chores inside and outside of your house as well as offering excellent corrosion resistance.

Benchmade 940 blade half open
The 940 boasts thumb studs and Benchmade’s ambidextrous axis-lock. Photo: Marty Stanfield

Dual thumb studs provide an ambidextrous opening with either hand. Satin is the standard finish, though a black-coated blade is available at a minimal cost increase. The blade’s slender form factor allows the 940 to get in and out of a variety of cutting tasks with great efficiency. Not to mention, this svelteness doesn’t raise eyebrows in public like some bigger, more brawny tactical folder designs.  

940 Handle

In the handle department, the 940 uses aircraft grade T6 6061 aluminum, offering excellent weight savings while not compromising strength. The handle is given a very nice dark green hard anodized coating, which is both scratch-resistant and aesthetically pleasing. Milled channels in the handle provide a slim-feeling knife in hand.

A tip-up-only pocket clip mounting is available on both sides of the handle to accommodate both left-handed and right-handed users alike.

Benchmade 940 clip
The clip is situated at the butt of the handle for tip-up carry. Photo: Marty Stanfield

The blade is secured in the open position by Benchmade’s own Axis Lock—regarded as the original crossbar lock. It promotes a smooth opening and closing action as well as very positive blade engagement, securely holding the blade open until you release it. Ambidextrous thumb buttons on either side of the handle allow one to release the lock with either hand. The Axis Lock is truly righty and lefty friendly, unlike liner locks that are specifically for right-handers.  

940 Performance

Not only does the 940 perform very well, but the knife also carries like a dream. It’s lightweight and compact, allowing it to disappear while clipped to jeans, casual pants, or dress slacks. It doesn’t weigh you down by any means. The handle sits deep enough in the pocket, away from prying eyes but there still is enough to grab onto when you want to retrieve the knife and put it to use.

In use, I appreciate the way the handle drops down a bit, forming a finger guard of sorts to keep your hand in place. It also helps to index your grip, as well. The purple anodized titanium handle spacer provides a neat pop of contrasting color against the green. Traction notches above the pivot give enough friction to hold your thumb or index finger in place during tough cutting tasks.

Final Cut

A great testament to Benchmade’s manufacturing quality, every single 940 I have seen out of the box, the blade is centered in the handle, and the action is very smooth. These knives are really dialed in when they come from the factory.  

Benchmade 940 three models
Aside from the standard 940 (middle), Benchmade offers the automatic 9400 (bottom) and compact 945 Mini Osborne (top). Photo: Marty Stanfield

Benchmade also expanded the selection of 940 to include variants that have carbon fiber handles, G-10 handles, and even an automatic opening version with the model 9400, which utilizes a coil spring-fired blade and a button plunge lock as opposed to the Axis Lock. There’s also the model 945 Mini Osborne which scales the 940 down some, creating a nice, ultra-compact folding knife with a 2.9-inch long blade. It still opens quickly, and cuts efficiently.

MSRPs understandably vary with size and handle materials. However, the MSRP for the standard 940 is $240, which puts it on par with other USA-made folders on the market.

Get one and it became fairly clear why the 940 resides at the top of Benchmade’s catalog. Even better yet, you will not be disappointed with the knife as your everyday companion.

Benchmade 940 Osborne Axis Lock Specs
Blade length: 3.4″
Blade thickness: 0.115″
Overall length: 7.8″
Weight: 2.9oz
Blade material: S30V
Handle material: T6 6061 aluminum
MSRP: $240

For more information on the 940, please visit Benchmade.

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Knife Handle Ergonomics 101: Getting A Grip On The Basics

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Design factors are crucial in matching the knife handle and the hand.

It all started with a stone. Held between the thumb and index finger, it could be used to cut things efficiently if the user learned how to keep the edge sharp.
It was the birth of knife technology.

The next step was to attach the stone to a stick. The stick handle afforded more versatility on how the stone blade could be used. Even though it started out looking like a mere piece of broomstick, there is some obvious utility in it since many knives today have the same simple shape. As a result, though knife handle technology did advance quickly at first, it really hasn’t changed that much in several thousand years. The reason is hand ergonomics. There are only so many ways a handle can fit into the human hand, though small differences in handle design can sometimes be profoundly important.

Asymmetric handles can improve grip but also limit versatility.
Asymmetric handles can improve grip but also limit versatility. An example is the karambit. The handle of the Elite Enforcer from Brous Blades is designed to provide a reliable grip in forward or reverse tactical positions. (Brous Blades image)

I bet that, as a knife collector, you have handled hundreds of knives and often exclaimed, “This knife is perfect.” We all have. What did we mean? What were we thinking? I would also bet the knife handle fit very snugly in your hand when you thought that. You were able to get a firm grip while you envisioned yourself using the knife on a camping trip, or perhaps defending your life, or doing a multitude of different tasks. The handle wasn’t too big, nor too little. There were no pressure points or sharp contours that caused discomfort. Your approval of the handle was probably appropriate to the task you were contemplating. However, while all blade configurations are not well suited for every possible task, likewise, for best use the knife handle design must complement the blade to which it is attached.

Cutting Jobs

Let’s simplify knife tasks into four basic categories:

  1. First are the simple everyday cutting chores, better known as “everyday carry” stuff. Open a package, cut a string, peel an apple, it’s just EDC. You think any tool with a sharp edge will do—and you’re right;
  2. Second is where you must open 500 cardboard boxes or a similar job that takes some degree of force and puts a lot of stress on your hand;
  3. Third is where you slice 10,000 tomatoes. Well, private, that’s a rough eight-hour shift in the mess hall! Many kitchen knives have some very non-ergonomic handles. Not a big deal if you’re cutting just one tomato, but in eight hours of doing that your hand might actually get some permanent damage. Yes, permanent;
  4. Fourth is an oft-used example and the pinnacle of all scenarios: defending your life. Oh yes, there has been many a knife made for extreme situations. It’s fun to own a big bowie!

The perfect handle for an EDC has so much latitude that the word perfect doesn’t seem like it should ever be used. Going to the other extreme of the fourth category, the concern would be on grip strength. You would not want to lose hold of the knife during a life-or-death situation. A handle that provides a good grip probably would sacrifice some versatility, though in an extreme situation grip strength is probably more important than versatility.

Size

Is the size of the handle’s diameter really important? There is some leeway here, but once you get into endless tomato and box cutting and especially the need for maximum “grip strength” during life-and-death situations, it is a very important factor. According to many studies, as the handle diameter is progressively increased, so too is the grip strength—at least up to a certain point. After that, grip strength starts to decrease.

It is a bit odd that shoe sizes come in a variety of lengths, even half sizes, and also various widths, but gloves are basically small, medium, large and extra large. Why not size gloves more like shoes? The expression “fits like a glove” might mean you are lucky to find a pair that actually fits.

Does one size fit all? Yes, sometimes. But just like buying shoes, you have to put them on and walk around the store a while. If you plan to climb a mountain, you better be damn sure that the shoes will fit, perform and not cause blisters. If a knife handle feels good, then is it good? Probably so. There are many knife handles that “look good” but the proof is how they feel in your hand, your particular hand.

Knife Handle Diameter

Knife Handle Grip Diameters

Gripping round sticks/knife handles of different diameters results in different ergonomic effects.

The first example shows less than optimal grip strength with a thin handle having diminished contact area between the palm and the handle surface. The force is maximum when the thumb and fingertips are directed parallel to the palm.

The second example favors a strong grip. The fingers are also able to wrap around the handle and there is more surface contact available.

The third example is near the peak of biomechanical advantage. Grip strength might be a little improved from the second example or perhaps a little diminished. Not very different there. Importantly, the thumb and fingers can still cross over each other. There is more advantage from friction. This might be the best fit for a baseball bat. Yet for a knife there will be less ability to change the hand position, which may be a disadvantage. Some consider a diameter of about 1.5 inches to offer the strongest grip and this example is a little larger than that.

The fourth example is loss of grip strength. The fingers can’t encase the handle. The strong ergonomic “power grip” is transforming to the ergonomically weaker “pinch grip.” —by LeRoi Price

Hand vs Handle

We already know about handle diameter. What about shape? Though the round shape of a broom handle works for a knife handle, an oval configuration fits well into the hand and, importantly, allows for indexing of the blade’s cutting edge. Most knife handles have a basically oval cross section.

Form follows function but it begins with ergonomics. There are several dedicated handle configurations that are suited well to a special purpose but are mainly limited to use for that single special purpose. One of the most notable examples is the karambit handle. Asymmetric handles can improve the grip but also limit versatility.

The anatomy, ergonomics and biomechanics of the hand present some challenges for handle design.

Palm Anatomy

Palm Anatomy

Prominent features of palm anatomy play a pivotal role in hand ergonomics. The red line is the actual bending point of the fingers. The blue dots are where the fingers bend from the palm. The green dashes are the second of the three bending points of the fingers. The yellow squares represent the prominence of the base of the thumb. The black hyphens indicate the small prominence of the heal of the hand. The oval of white squares is a hollow space in the center of the palm.

Note: the hand is not like a door hinge. These lines move as the hand goes from flat open to a closed fist. Now look at the back of your hand as it goes from open to a fist. The knuckles go from a fairly flat line to a downward curve. The finger joints all have a different radius at which they bend.
Hand ergonomics is not a static condition, which makes things difficult for handle design.

Handle Subtlies

Here is a simple camp knife and somebody made it right. I’ll point out my reasons why starting with the finger groove (B). It is well demarcated though not deep nor very pronounced—just like all the subtle features of this handle. This allows the handle to be more easily manipulated than if the fingers are forced into deep recesses. The groove fits the index finger.

A slight forward rise (A) forms an integral guard. This is an important feature. Some knives like this one have a brass guard in front that is not just mere decoration. A rising protrusion (C) fits into the space of the middle and index fingers. Then it’s down to the groove where the little finger resides (D). Another protrusion (E) captures the little finger and forms a rear guard—again, important for a camp knife.

Area “F” extends more rearward and slopes down to contact the heal of the hand. A slight swell (G) fits into the palm. Some knives are flat in this area but that doesn’t fit hand anatomy well. The handle has a very subtle hollow at “H.” This is where the web of the thumb makes contact, which makes it best to keep it subtle. Area “I” rises slightly here but often is left flat in many knives. This is where you place your thumb when doing some tasks. Putting a guard on the handle spine is less effective than putting one underneath because there are no bones in the thumb web—though slightly rising at “I” is useful.

Conclusion

There is no agreement on the shape of the perfect handle, so you are left with my opinion. On the other hand, you have something to think about and can investigate further. My opinion is this: While there is no such thing as “perfect,” there is still “good enough.” The same can be said for a lot of things.

The handle’s outer contours attempt to nest into the hand’s inner contours
The handle’s outer contours attempt to nest into the hand’s inner contours. A perfect fit of the handle into the palm would not necessarily make for the so-called perfect handle since there are so many variables, such as the strength a particular finger can generate, the forces the blade will be subjected to during use, wrist angle to the blade, slippery conditions, etc. Non-slip handle texture is a different topic altogether, as well as a spongy outer surface that slightly conforms to the user’s palm.

I shouldn’t give numbers but I know you’re going to be curious about some. For a 5-foot-8-inch man, shoe size 9D which correlates to a large size glove, the handle configuration should be oval with a top-to-bottom dimension of 1.125 inch and 1 inch width. These suggestions are approximate, of course, but are the actual dimensions of the pictured camp knife seen with a handle length of 4.675 inches. (Go up to perhaps 1.5 inches height for a combat knife.) The back of the handle should be convex as well as the lower belly. A shallow groove for the index finger is a good option, and perhaps a second one for the middle finger as well. More finger grooves improve grip strength but are a detriment to the ability to manipulate the knife. They also add pressure points.

Ergonomics in a folder also? Absolutely!
Ergonomics in a folder also? Absolutely! A Demko AD20.5 has a protrusion/integral guard between areas “B” and “C” that creates two finger grooves. The extra finger groove as well as the protrusion/integral guard forward of “B” are good ideas in a folder. The features increase grip strength, which is hindered in folder handles since they are thin compared to fixed-blade handles. The front of the handle is not squared off, which provides for a finger groove at “A.”

When you find a knife handle that doesn’t feel right, it is probably not right for you. Nonetheless, finding one that fits your hand “good enough” is probably the best you can do, and all you need to do.

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