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Cutlery Hall of Fame 2024: Dowell, Harsey And Fogg Enshired In Atlanta

Cutlery Hall of Fame enshrines three icons of cut in Atlanta.

The BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame® brought three groundbreakers of the world of knives into the fold June 7 with the formal inductions of premier knifemakers Ted Dowell and Bill Harsey and ABS master smith Don Fogg.

About 75 patrons were on hand for the breakfast/induction ceremony held in the Kennesaw Room of the Renaissance Atlanta Waverly Hotel the Saturday morning of BLADE Show 2024. For the first time in recent memory for the Hall-of-Fame ceremony, none of the inductees were on hand. Fogg and Harsey were unable to attend for health reasons, while Dowell passed away in 2012.

However, somehow it didn’t seem to matter so much as friends, family and acquaintances of the inductees and others took up the slack to produce a memorable induction event. Present to formally induct the new Cutlery Hall of Famers were Jeff Dowell (his father, Ted); Anne and Tim Reeve of Chris Reeve Knives and Curtis Iovito of Spartan Blades (Harsey); and Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Steve Schwarzer (Fogg).

T.M. “Ted” Dowell

Ted Dowell examines his handiwork
Ted Dowell examines his handiwork in his backyard knife shop. (image courtesy of Jeff Dowell)

As a founding member of The Knifemakers’ Guild, Ted Dowell played a key role in helping to organize the Guild, the grandaddy of all modern knifemaker organizations, in 1970. Along with fellow Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Bob Loveless, he wrote the Guild’s original bylaws.

A veteran of the United States Navy, Ted resigned his position as a full-time mathematics professor in 1974 to go full time making knives. As Guild president in 1975, overcoming opposition from some in the Guild’s ranks, he coordinated the organization’s first custom-knives-only-no-guns show. He also helped Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Phil Lobred establish the Art Knife Invitational in the early 1980s. Lobred credited Dowell with making the first modern integral knife, a design Ted introduced in 1972 in his basic hunters and which eventually evolved into some of the most ornate of integral art knives. Integral knives became a category of their own and remain popular to this day.

As Jeff noted, his father was passionate about the Guild and “all the foundations that set the pace and the tone for a lot of us that sit here today and reaped those rewards.” Jeff said much of the credit for his father’s success was due to the support of Mrs. Betty Dowell, who, while unable to attend the induction ceremony, was there vicariously through her son.

“Mom had her 93rd birthday a couple of days ago,” Jeff said to cheers and applause from those in attendance, “and she’s doing pretty well for 93. She still lives in the house that she and Dad bought in 1962 in Bend, Oregon, and the shop is still in the backyard. It’s not as completely outfitted as much as it was when he was working but a lot of the core stuff is still there. I go out there and tinker around quite often, and his presence is still very much there.”

Phil Lobred credited Ted Dowell with making the first modern integral knife
Phil Lobred credited Ted Dowell with making the first modern integral knife, a design Ted introduced in 1972 in his basic hunters and which eventually evolved into some of the most ornate of integral art knives. (SharpByCoop image)

Jeff and his brother, Scott, worked in the shop making sheaths for their father’s knives before tragedy struck in 1975 when Scott was killed in a car accident. He was only 19. “That was a tough day,” Jeff recalled, “and it took both my dad and mom a while to recover.” Jeff soon assumed the sheath-making duties and Ted and Betty soldiered on with life, with Betty taking more of a lead role than ever.

“My mom was galvanized and determined to have a family to take care of and a household to run,” Jeff said, “and she ran every bit of the business. [Dad made the knives] but everything else she did. She attended to every detail of the business. She had two kids to take care of and she had a grieving husband and a knifemaker and a business to support, and she did so for another 40 years.”

Meanwhile, Ted continued to establish a reputation as one of the finest makers of custom knives. “During that time Dad produced some great hunting knives and was best known for his integral designs and Funny Folders and those types of things,” Jeff remembered. “It was really Phil Lobred that pushed him and got him into art knives, and Dad produced some absolutely stunning art knives over the years.” Many of those images are on the impressive tmdknives.com website for which Jeff provides updates when warranted.

Still, Jeff said, his mother loomed large in every knife her husband made. “I don’t know that Dad could have made all those knives if not for her,” he noted. “She was that influential and resolute in seeing this through. I was fortunate enough to be a big part in working in the shop before heading off to college, and I visited quite often during that time to see some of the great knives Dad was doing. They both felt he deserved to be in the Hall of Fame and it’s wonderful that he finally is.

“I thank everybody here who voted him in and the other inductees as well. It’s a great honor.”

William “Bill” Harsey, Jr.

Bill Harsey
Bill Harsey (Ronald S. Smith image)

Bill Harsey has made and designed knives for 38 years, during which time he has been one of the most prolific and recognizable names in the industry, working behind the scenes and designing for Al Mar Knives, Beretta, Chris Reeve Knives, CRKT, Gerber, Ruger and Spartan Blades. He worked and consulted with and designed for Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Col. Rex Applegate, including the British SAS Collaboration Knife. Bill designed the U.S. Army Special Forces Green Beret Knife, aka The Yarborough, for Chris Reeve Knives, a serialized version of which was presented to each graduate of the Special Forces Qualification Course. He also designed the official knife of the Canadian Special Forces and the U.S. Navy SEAL Silver Trident knife, and worked on the Neil Roberts knife project.

A fourth-generation lumberjack, Bill was born into a family of lumberjacks that, as Anne Reeve put it, was kind of a working ranch. “His grandparents taught him the importance of a knife,” Anne read from notes Bill had prepared beforehand. “His grandfather taught him very much, including how to hand sharpen tools for work.”

As Anne noted, Special Forces soldiers guided Bill’s knife work from the beginning. Bill met and was advised by Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Al Mar, and they worked together on knife projects for many years. “Bill credited Al Mar with teaching him to recognize good design,” Anne noted. It was Mar, a Green Beret in his own right, who introduced Bill to Col. Applegate, and the two struck up a working relationship that lasted 14 years. Among the fruits of that relationship was the Applegate-Fairbairn combat knife for which, Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Bob Terzuola noted, Harsey did the prototypes and grinding of the blades.

Curtis Iovito explained how and why Bill fulfilled the requirements (see sidebar) for Hall-of-Fame membership. “In an industry where trust is paramount, Bill exemplifies honesty, character and integrity,” Curtis said, citing how Spartan Blades and Harsey consummated their numerous collaboration agreements. “Every deal we’ve done with Bill Harsey has been sealed with a handshake,” he said as Anne Reeve nodded in agreement. “People are just supposed to do things right,” Curtis observed. “Bill set a standard for ethical conduct in the knife industry.”

Bill Harsey has designed knives for many companies, including the Tactical Trout for Spartan Blades
Bill Harsey has designed knives for many companies, including the Tactical Trout for Spartan Blades. Bill’s Clandestina design for Spartan is the BLADE Magazine 2024 Overall Knife Of The Year® (page 12).

Demand in one’s area of expertise is almost always a sure sign of success, and the demand for Harsey’s design skill is high—not only domestically but internationally as well.

“He is an ambassador of American knives. His collaborations have transcended awards as demonstrated by the Special Ops community seeking his work throughout the world,” Curtis observed of the new inductee. “Through his contributions he has elevated the status of American knifemaking but also positive relationships around the world. [Spartan Blades] is located near Fort Bragg and I’ve had people from the Italian Special Forces, German Special Forces, GSG 9, and a plethora of others visiting Fort Bragg to call our shop and ask for Bill.

“Finally, I believe Bill is more than worthy because of his dedication to the craft. He sets the example for everyone else to follow and that reaches far beyond the U.S. border, which I find really cool, and in the relationships he builds. His legacy is one that’s shaped our industry and continues to inspire future generations of knifemakers.”

Donald L. Fogg

Don Fogg
Don Fogg (Eric Eggly/PointSeven image)

A United States Marine Corps veteran of the Vietnam War, Don Fogg long has shared his vast knowledge of steel and making knives and swords. He helped further the art of Samurai and Viking sword making and developed the W’s damascus pattern. He shared the drawings of his best gas forge and his gas heat treat oven for swords. He built one of the first 20-ton hydraulic forging presses for making damascus. Today the press is as popular as a power hammer. He also was instrumental in starting the American Bladesmith Society-sanctioned bladesmithing school in Auburn, Maine. In 2005, he won the BLADE Magazine Industry Achievement Award. In 2006, he was inducted into the ABS Hall of Fame.

Steve Schwarzer said Don is like the “original Yoda of bladesmithing” and is “a genius in the knife business.” The new inductee has been a guiding light of bladesmithing instruction, including teaching classes at the Bill Moran School of Bladesmithing, damascus and swordsmithing at the J.C. Campbell Folk School, and at Montgomery College, to name but a few. He has written many stories on bladesmithing that have been published in magazines and books worldwide. Steve said Don was one of the first to spread bladesmithing information on the Internet, including hosting an international chat group that flourished for years teaching and spreading the good word of the forged blade.

Like Harsey did for Anne Reeve, Don wrote a timeline of his career to help guide Schwarzer’s induction speech. Don’s “knifemaking adventure” started in 1976 when he met and befriended Jimmie Fikes, a master blacksmith who “really knew his stuff.” Don soon met Jim Schmidt and they gathered at Fikes’ shop to forge weld a damascus billet. “It became apparent if we were really going to grow we were going to have to expand the market and the number of people making blades,” Don wrote. Added Steve, “And that’s what Don did. He was one of the few knifemakers early on that approached it as a business.”

The Ashokan seminar in New York in 1980 was a pivotal moment that brought together the few leading smiths of the day, including Don, from all over the country. The hammer-in was a way of teaching and sharing knowledge that each smith had learned individually, exploding the growth of bladesmithing. “There’d been a lot of discussion about creating standards for the craft and a ratings system was developed,” Don wrote. Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Bill Moran, who together with Bill Bagwell, Don Hastings and Cutlery Hall-of-Famer B. R. Hughes formed the American Bladesmith Society in 1976, announced the first ABS master smith ratings at the 1982 New York Custom Knife Show. Fogg was one of those ABS master smiths.

Kemal's pivotal knife was a dragon-handle damascus model
Together with Murad Sayen, Don Fogg comprised the knifemaking team known as Kemal. Their pivotal knife was a dragon-handle damascus model that appeared in BLADE® and Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Jim Weyer’s Points of Interest, Book IV. (Weyer International image)

Don’s main interest was steelwork, which soon exceeded his ability to make handles. Enter Murad Sayen, with the two forming the knifemaking team of Kemal. Don learned so much from Murad it opened his eyes creatively and he learned a whole new line of form, texture and contrast, which in turn changed his approach to making steel. One of their knives was pictured in the highly influential Esquire Magazine, which helped bring the beauty of art knives to the world outside the knife industry.

Don moved to Alabama, where he befriended Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Jim Batson. Fogg became a regular at Batson’s hammer-ins, sharing knowledge and also meeting bladesmith Chuck Patrick. Don and Chuck taught swordsmithing and worked together for years. In the interim Don dropped out of the ABS and lost his MS rating, but had grown and was “representing bladesmithing to the world.” With Batson’s encouragement he retook the MS test and passed it again.

“I feel privileged to have been at the beginning of what was to become a global rebirth of this ancient craft,” Don wrote. “I used to joke I have a well-developed set of archaic skills, but in truth I was so fortunate to have found my community and one that challenged me for my entire life and educated me in so many ways.”

Hall-of-Fame Requirements

To be inducted into the BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame®, prospective members must have practiced all of the following during their careers:

  • Demonstrated extraordinary service to the knife industry;
  • Displayed honesty, character and integrity;
  • Advanced the industry by the creativity and originality of their works or contributions;
  • As ambassadors or outstanding contributors, have furthered the positive impact of the knife industry on the world at large, and;
  • In summary, have demonstrated a worthiness to be a member of this prestigious group.

See Other Hall Of Fame Members:

Cool Customs: Barret Chrisman Takes The Ol’ Bullet Hi-Tech

Barret Chrisman puts a modern spin on a vintage Remington design.

Barret Chrisman’s contemporary take on the classic Remington 1306 Bullet lockback combines tradition and hi-tech in one handsome custom pocketknife.

Barret outfitted his repro with all cutting-edge materials, including a blade of Loki pattern damascus by Damasteel, a handle of checkered titanium that resembles jigging and a titanium bullet shield. “I’ve seen people jig titanium before but I wanted to try checkering, so I made up a custom pantograph template and tried it out,” he said. He anodized the handle a purplish bronze.

Barret Chrisman
Barret Chrisman

“It’s a modern take on an old school knife everybody likes,” Barret noted, “and I’ll probably be doing the same kind of thing in the future.”

Remington 1306 Bullet Modern Reproduction Specs
Maker: Barret Chrisman
Blade length: 4”
Blade material: Loki pattern damascus by Damasteel
Blade grind: Full flat
Handle frame: Titanium
Handle scales: Checkered titanium w/inlaid titanium bullet shield
Lock: Lockback
Closed length: 47/8”
Maker’s price for a similar knife: $1,500

Check Out More Cool Custom Knives:

Peltonen M07 Ranger Review: The Perfect Puukko?

Peltonen M07 Ranger Puukko makes the author’s all-time-best test list.

When I received the M07 Ranger Puukko from Peltonen Knives, I was really surprised to find that the Finnish company was using my favorite carbon steel, 80CRV2, my go-to blade material for the knives I make. It has suburb edge retention and a toughness equal to 5160 carbon steel. The TPV handle is firm but provides a great non-slip grip. However, the knife still has to come together as a comfortable cutter. Let’s get to the fun stuff.

M07 Ranger Sharpness

As I do with my blades to check for sharpness, the hair on my arm has to pop off. The M07 did not disappoint. It was hair popping from the start. For those who prefer the paper-slice sharpness test, using the weight of the knife only, I found the M07 very aggressive slicing the medium. You could hear every slice. The handle gave me great control.

Medium-Duty Cutting Tests

M07 slices leather
The author really had to control the cut of the 8-ounce leather with just a quick touch; any pushing and the knife was clear through the material.

I grabbed some heavy double-walled cardboard and continued slicing. The M07 parted the material quickly with no snagging. I could feel it biting into the cardboard. I had to be careful not to nick my finger. The knife is that scary sharp.

When I started skiving 8-ounce leather, the M07 sliced all the way through as soon as I laid the edge on the medium. I really had to control the cut with just a quick touch; any pushing and the knife was clear through the leather.

M07 cutting rope
Seventy crunching cuts of the 1-inch manila rope and there was no sign of slowing down. The knife is perfectly formed for heavy cutting chores.

I had enough half-inch sisal rope for the M07 to crunch to 200 cuts with no problem. So, I grabbed my last piece of 1-inch manila rope. It was no challenge for the M07. Seventy crunching cuts later and there was no sign of slowing down. The knife is perfectly formed for heavy cutting chores.

Heavy-Duty Cutting Tests

M07 produced nice curlicues
It did not matter if it took a small bite or a deeper one, the M07 produced nice curlicues.

It did not matter if it took a small bite or a deeper one, the M07 produced nice curlicues. I could hear the knife cut the wood. The soft handle made controlling the sharp blade easy. Again, the cutting was quite aggressive.

It was time to hack some seasoned hackberry. Using a dead blow hammer, I pounded the M07 through the log. The handle absorbed all the shock from the blows, making the baton job a comfortable experience. The blade bit deep with each blow. In less than 30 seconds I had the log quartered. There were wood smears on the blade and some of the coating at the top of the grind showed a little wear. The edge was still extremely sharp. Great job, Peltonen.

The M07 made short baton work of the hackberry log.
The M07 made short baton work of the hackberry log.

It was back to the paper slice for the final test. There were two snags due to catching my thumbnail with the edge. The knife zipped through the rest of it.

Final Cut

The only change I’d make is to bring the grind line up closer to the blade spine. Otherwise, the M07 has to be in the top 1 percent of the sharpest knives I’ve tested in the past 30 years, and also the most comfortable handle. You could use this knife all day long and not get a sore spot. And the heat treating is excellent.

Peltonen Knives M07 Specs
Blade length: 4.68”
Blade material: 80CrV2 carbon steel
Rockwell hardness: 59 HRC
Blade grind: Saber
Blade @ thickest: .167”
Blade pattern: Drop point
Blade finish: PTFE Teflon (uncoated and Cerakote® finish also available)
Handle: TPV plastic blend
Weight: 3.75 ozs.
Overall length: 9.56”
Sheath: Plastic composite w/EasyLock locking mechanism; ambidextrous; MOLLE/PALS-webbing compatible (leather and Kydex versions also available)
Sheath weight: 1.75 ozs. (plastic composite)
MSRP: $68.43 at press-time exchange rate

Read More Knife Reviews:

New Knives July 2024

Fixed, Folders and Axes… Oh My!

As always, a slew of new knives are hitting the custom and factory markets. We scoured both to bring you some of the latest and greatest handmade and production gems. Keep your eyes peeled for these fantastic options hitting dealers’ shelves soon.

Collin Maguire Alien Vest Bowie

Collin Maguire Alien Vest Bowie

KNIFE TYPE: Fixed blade
BLADE LENGTH: 4 1/8” from tip to plunge cut
BLADE MATERIAL: 4-bar Turkish twist damascus
BLADE GRIND: Flat
BLADE PATTERN: Harpoon/trailing point
HANDLE MATERIAL: Timascus™
OVERALL LENGTH: 8.25”
CONSTRUCTION: Integral
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,200
MAKER: Collin Maguire, Dept., (SharpByCoop image)


Eliot Maldonado Diamond Keyhole

Eliot Maldonado Diamond Keyhole

BLADE LENGTH: 2.75”
BLADE MATERIAL: A damascus pattern of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels
HANDLE: Amber jigged bone
LINERS: Titanium
BOLSTER: 416 stainless steel engraved by Dale Bass
CLOSED LENGTH: 3.25”
MAKER: Eliot Maldonado, (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Kevin Cross Yanagiba

Kevin Cross Yanagiba

KNIFE TYPE: Sushi/sashimi knife
BLADE LENGTH: 10.6”
BLADE STEEL: Damascus forged by Damasteel
BLADE GRIND: Single bevel on dominant hand side, concave on the other, aka urasuki
HANDLE MATERIAL: Mammoth ivory
BOLSTER: Honduran rosewood
OVERALL LENGTH: 17”
SAYA (sheath): Wood
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE AND SHEATH: $1,800
MAKER: Kevin Cross, kevincrossknives.net (SharpByCoop image)


Aiden De Fazio Gyuto Chef’s Knife

Aiden De Fazio Gyuto Chef’s Knife

BLADE LENGTH: 8.27”
BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel
BLADE GRIND: Slightly convex
BLADE THICKNESS @ RICASSO: .138”
BLADE @ WIDEST: 2.05”
HANDLE MATERIAL: Ringed gidgee
SPACERS: San-mai damascus
OVERALL LENGTH: 14.17”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $470 at press-time exchange rate
MAKER: Aiden De Fazio, (Rod Hoare image)


The Farmers Forge The Zebra

The Farmers Forge The Zebra

MODEL TYPE: Axe/hatchet
BLADE LENGTH: 3.35”
BLADE MATERIAL: Damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels
BLADE GRIND: Convex
HANDLE: Wedge is piened stainless steel
FRAME MATERIAL: Australian cudgee
OVERALL LENGTH: 14.2”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR PIECE: $1,000 at press-time exchange rate
MAKER: The Farmers Forge, thefarmersforge.com.au (Rod Hoare image)


18 Cutlery Co. Great White

18 Cutlery Co. Great White

KNIFE TYPE: Tactical bowie
BLADE LENGTH: 7.5”
BLADE STEEL: CPM S30V stainless
BLADE GRIND: Flat w/fuller
BLADE THICKNESS @ RICASSO: .25”
BLADE @ WIDEST: 1.97”
HANDLE MATERIAL: G-10
OVERALL LENGTH: 13”
MAKER: 18 Cutlery Co., 18cutleryao.com (Rod Hoare image)


Eric Hemker Paring Knife

Eric Hemker Paring Knife

BLADE LENGTH: 3.75”
BLADE MATERIAL: A 351-layer random pattern damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel alloy steels
HANDLE: Natural buckeye burl
HANDLE SPACERS: Green G-10 and stainless steel
OVERALL LENGTH: 8.37”
KNIFE TO KNOW: Eric Hemker is an apprentice smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER: Eric Hemker, Armada, Michigan, hemkerblacksmithing.com (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Kellam Knives Worldwide Harriet 70

Kellam Knives Worldwide Harriet 70

KNIFE TYPE: Puukko
BLADE LENGTH: 3”
BLADE STEEL: Polished stainless
BLADE GRIND: Scandi
HANDLE: Dark-dyed Arctic curly birch
BOLSTERS: Tri-layered nickel silver
CONSTRUCTION: Full-tapered tang
OVERALL LENGTH: 7.5”
SHEATH TYPE/MATERIAL: Swinger style/dark-stained ox hide leather w/stainless band
KNIFE TO KNOW: The knife is named for Harriet Mars-Kellokoski, wife of company headman Jouni Kellokoski; Harriet has worked with the company for many years, was involved in the knife’s design and her signature appears on the blade; the first 70 editions are numbered
MSRP: $179.98
COMPANY: Kellam Knives Worldwide, kellamknives.com


Bradford USA Guardian 4.2 

Bradford USA Guardian 4.2 

KNIFE TYPE: Fixed blade 
BLADE LENGTH: 4.825” 
BLADE STEEL: CPM MagnaCut stainless
BLADE GRIND: Sabre and full height 
HANDLE MATERIAL: Choice of G-10, Micarta® and carbon fiber 
WEIGHT: 6.7 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 9.375” 
SHEATH TYPE/MATERIAL: Vertical bridle/leather
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA 
MSRP: $269
COMPANY: Bradford USA, [email protected]


Real Avid RAV Series

Real Avid RAV Series

KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTHS: Depending on the choice of drop point, tanto or modified clip point, 3.25 or 3.4”
BLADE STEELS: A choice of 4Cr14 and 8Cr13MoV stainless
BLADE FINISHES: Black oxide or titanium
HANDLE MATERIAL: Choice of nylon, aluminum, aluminum/stainless steel, glass-filled nylon, aluminum/carbon fiber and G-10
POCKET CLIP: Yes
LOCKS: Spring-assisted linerlock or AXIS lock
KNIFE TO KNOW: The RAV series includes a variety of knives named RAV-1 through RAV-7
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Engineered in the USA, manufactured in China
MSRPs: Range from $24.99 to $49.99
COMPANY: Real Avid, realavid.com


W. R. Case Longhouse

W. R. Case Longhouse

KNIFE TYPE: Slipjoint
BLADE LENGTH: 2.75”
BLADE STEEL: CPM 20CV stainless
BLADE PATTERN: Modified wharncliffe
BLADE FINISH: Stonewash satin
HANDLE MATERIAL: Choice of black burlap and OD green Micarta® and rosewood
BOLSTER: Pinched and fluted
POCKET CLIP: Deep carry
CONSTRUCTION: Screw design
WEIGHT: 3.3 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 4”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $189.99
COMPANY: W. R. Case, www.wrcase.com


RMJ Tactical Orlando Special

RMJ Tactical Orlando Special

BLADE LENGTH: 4.5”
BLADE STEEL: Nitro V stainless
ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 59-60 HRC
BLADE @ THICKEST: 1/8”
BLADE FINISH: Tungsten gray Cerakote®
BLADE STYLE: Clovis
HANDLE MATERIAL: Choice of black G-10, dirty olive and hyena brown
HANDLE FASTENERS: Torx Grade 5 titanium anodized bronze
WEIGHT: 4.6 ozs.
OVERALL LENGTH: 8 7/8”
SHEATH: Kydex w/1.5” belt clip
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $295
MAKER: RMJ Tactical, www.rmjtactical.com


Check Out More Knife Drops:

Puukko Perfection: Hot Scandi-Ground Options For Sportsmen

See how well four hot Scandi-ground puukkos cut and handle.

A multifunction knife, the puukko is integral to Nordic life, revered by scouts and symbolizing adulthood in Finland. The design—a palm-sized blade with a single edge and flat back—facilitates various tasks. It is ideal for carving and cleaning but lacks a guard because it’s crafted for slicing, not stabbing, with some models featuring finger grooves for wet conditions.

While men’s and women’s puukkos differ slightly in size and are ornately sheathed, both are equally esteemed. The puukko’s deep-carry sheath, easily attached to a belt or around the neck, makes it a practical tool for everyday use.

Puukko Grinds

Assorted grinds
Assorted grinds, from left: flat, convex, Scandi and hollow. (from the BLADE® files)

Scandinavian knives are renowned for the unique grind that sets them apart from other knives with flat, hollow, saber and other grinds. Most knives have primary and secondary bevels that meet at the cutting edge. However, Scandinavian or Scandi grinds feature just one bevel that starts near the blade center and tapers to the edge. The design creates an acute angle that produces a razor-sharp edge, making it incredibly easy to slice through even the most rigid materials. Additionally, sharpening Scandi knives is a breeze, as you don’t have to worry about getting the correct angle. Simply lay the blade on the stone with the edge against the honing surface, and voila!—you automatically get the perfect angle.

Marttiini Arctic Bush Knife

Fine-tuning a wooden wedge using the chest-lever grip with the Marttiini Arctic Bush Knife.
Fine-tuning a wooden wedge using the chest-lever grip with the Marttiini Arctic Bush Knife (ABK) is effortless for precise and challenging cutting tasks.

Marttiini knives are Nordic puukkos crafted in the Arctic Circle using generations of craftsmanship and modern technology. Founded in 1928 by blacksmith Janne Marttiini, the company produces high-quality utility knives made of natural materials like leather, curly birch and reindeer antlers, along with ultra-sharp blades of carbon steel. The knives are designed for use in harsh conditions.

Also known as Kiehinen in Finland, the Marttiini Arctic Bush Knife (ABK) is a beautiful, traditional stick-tang-style knife with a 3.5-inch blade. Made of stunningly grained curly birch, the handle is handsome and incredibly comfortable, a characteristic common to all top puukkos.

The ABK is an excellent choice for those who prefer a blade under 4 inches and have other tools for chopping or sawing. It is easy to use in winter conditions, even when wearing wool mittens or leather work gloves. The deep pocket carry sheath ensures the knife is easy to grip and deploy. Overall, it is an excellent choice for anyone looking for a traditional yet functional knife that offers both comfort and aesthetics.

Puukko Marttiini and Wood Jewel.
Finland is known for crafting high-quality puukkos that can withstand harsh conditions. It is the world’s largest producer of puukkos. Two of the most popular brands are Marttiini (top) and Wood Jewel (bottom).

This past winter I had to carve hardwood wedges for splitting logs in camp. While axes (page 48) are the traditional tools for the task, I decided to use the ABK instead. It features an oval, tapered grip designed to provide a secure hold during challenging cutting tasks. The Scandi edge sliced through the dry maple with ease, even when encountering knots.

I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable the knife was in a chest-lever grip for fine carving. I wanted to tackle the task while the knife was still sharp before moving to more knife-suitable camp craft such as making stakes out of beech and maple. In addition to carving wedges, I usually try to turn out about six good fuzz sticks before leaving camp for the next fire—sort of an early set-up. The ABK excels at the task as much as any Scandi blade would, making it a valuable addition to my gear.

Morakniv Classic

Classic No. 1/0
The Classic No. 1/0 has a 3-inch blade designed for carving feather sticks and whittling, making it great for fire preparation.

Morakniv knives are made exclusively in Mora, Sweden, where the company has been for centuries. Combining the benefits of handforged blades with industrial manufacturing, Morakniv is known for quality, consistent, sharp knives. They are recognized as a national symbol of Sweden and have been granted a Royal Warrant of Appointment by the King*.

The Morakniv Classic knives are a popular choice among outdoor enthusiasts and professionals alike. The blades are carbon steel and the distinct barrel-shaped handles are red-stained birch. The Classic knives have been around for nearly a century, and while some changes have been made over the years, the basic design has remained essentially unchanged.

In 2020, Morakniv updated the Classic series. The edge angles and blade shapes remain the same but all the knives have rattail tangs. The new polymer sheath is sleek and polished and features the Swedish Coat of Arms. The belt strap is Swedish vegetable-tanned leather designed to last generations.

The Morakniv Classic No. 1/0 has been renamed and upgraded from the Classic No. 2/0, with slight differences in handle width and blade thickness. The blade is .078 inch at the thickest. I like the trim blade. It is a hair longer than the 2/0 at 3 inches.

The Morakniv Classic No. 1/0 has a thin .078-inch blade useful for slicing onions, peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes.
The Morakniv Classic No. 1/0 has a thin .078-inch blade useful for slicing onions, peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes.

I carried the bite-sized knife on a small carabiner hooked to my belt loop. I used it on dry poplar, hickory and maple to make feather sticks. It performed precisely as a Morakniv Classic should, slicing and curling wood with every stroke. Sitting by the fire, whittling and filling up my tinder/kindling coffee can with shavings was my nighttime routine with the 1/0.

The small, very able cutter regularly sliced peppers, onions and mushrooms for camp kabobs or morning omelets. Due to its kitchen knife-like thinness, the blade sliced food exceptionally well for a Scandi grind.

Bear Forest Knives Simple 3

Bear Forest Knives Simple 3
The author used the Bear Forest Knives Simple 3 to carve a seven-notch try stick from semi-dry wood. The sharp zero grind excels on green and dry wood.

Based in the USA, Bear Forest Knives is keeping the puukko knife alive and thriving. The company recently released its latest addition to the Simple series, the Simple 3.

The full-tang Finnish puukko-style knife packs a compact and convenient 3-inch blade of 8670 carbon steel. Its straight-back 90-degree spine and zero Scandi grind ensure remarkable control and precision, making it ideal for intricate tasks. The Simple 3 features an exposed pommel perfect for light hammering tasks, which wasn’t an option on previous knives in the series. The 8670 is typically found in large circular saw blades, much like old-timey puukkos made in Scandinavia. The Simple 3’s compact size makes it highly versatile for various woods tasks.

Simple 3 Puukko
The Simple 3 is a versatile puukko for camping, bushcrafting or hunting. The 3-inch 8670 carbon steel blade has a straight back, 90-degree spine and zero Scandi grind for control and precision.

Using the knife, I created a mini try stick and enjoyed some woodcarving. The handle was comfortable and filling, while the zero Scandi was perfect for removing a lot of material. I used semi-dry wood, which the Scandi grind works better on than a flat or saber grind. I continued crafting tent stakes and making fuzz sticks, which a puukko excels at most. Additionally, the super sharp spine was exceptionally helpful, as it helped me to ignite the nicely feathered shavings for fire using my ferro rod.

Reiff Knives F4 Scandi Bushcraft

Reiff F4 Scandi Bushcraft
The Reiff F4 Scandi Bushcraft made feathering wood a breeze. The large handle helped ease the blade through hard oak to make thin, curly feathers.

The F4 Scandi Bushcraft is the latest homage to the puukko from Reiff Knives. The company keeps the contemporary rendition of the famed knife alive with modern craftsmanship and materials in a full-tang construction.

A knife with a Scandi-ground blade is a must-have for bushcraft enthusiasts. The F4 blade is CPM 3V carbon steel 5/32 inch thick at the thickest with a steep grind angle of 12.5 degrees per side. Its ability to effortlessly slice through wood, animal hides and food is remarkable. The textured canvas Micarta® scales are available in four colors.

F4 Scandi
The F4 Scandi is a new breed of knife that, thanks to the tough CPM 3V carbon blade steel, had no problem batonning through frozen wood in the winter.

The robust F4 Scandi helped split several chunks of maple, oak and poplar with a baton for my winter cookouts. It also kept an Uberleben wood stove and one cold hiker well-fed. The Scandi edge was not damaged when used on frozen wood in freezing weather. After heavy splitting—not usually recommended for a Scandi blade—it was time for tinder shavings. I made several fuzz sticks and marveled at how comfortably the 5-inch handle navigated the edge, elegantly feathering the wood. Reiff has it going on!

*Royal warrants of appointment have been issued for centuries by royal families of assorted European countries to tradespeople who supply goods or services to a royal court or certain royal personages. The royal warrant enables the suppliers to advertise the fact that they supply to the issuer of the royal warrant, thus lending prestige to the suppliers.

Check Out More Outdoor Knives:

What Makes A Good Hamon?

Know the visual tells of whether a hamon is done properly or not.

For centuries, the hamon has served as a mark of excellence in the forging of blades.

Conspicuous by its picturesque line generally dissecting the midsection of a differentially heat-treated blade, it demonstrates a skill set highly valued among top bladesmiths and swordsmiths. Moreover, the difference between a good hamon and one that doesn’t hit the mark can help the maker, owner and user in understanding the prospective performance of the blade itself.

Basically, think of a hamon as the equator between the hard and softer or more malleable areas of the blade. Everything above the hamon is softer, which translates as making the back of the blade malleable and thus tougher. In other words, the blade will bend but not break. Meanwhile, everything below the hamon is harder, which is better for holding an edge.

Francesco Piccinin and Denis Mura provide hamon on their bowie collaboration.
Emiliano Carrillo indicated a hamon should be continuous, with no areas falling off the edge of the blade. Francesco Piccinin and Denis Mura provide such a hamon on their bowie collaboration. Blade material is C130 carbon steel, according to Eurotechni (eurotechni.com) a grade that makes it possible to obtain “pretty hamons.” Overall length: 13 inches. (Jocelyn Frasier image)

“There are several things that make the edge pattern successful,” explained bladesmith Emiliano Carrillo of Sun and Stars Forge. “The first two are practical.

The hamon should be continuous; there should be no areas of it that fall off the edge of the blade. It should be high enough that the knife can support a lifetime of sharpening and removal of edge material without biting into soft material. For kitchen knives this can be somewhat low to the edge, as the geometry will have to be adjusted if a large amount of edge material is removed.

“The rest are my own opinion and are purely subjective. I’m a bladesmith who works in the historical tradition and therefore my work draws on traditional Japanese metalwork when it comes to hamon aesthetic and technique.

“I think a good hamon should be active and rippling, showcasing your imagination and artistic vision,” Emiliano continued. “It should have good undulations and look like it’s been drawn on the blade with an ink brush. There should be ashi [legs], which are areas of hardening within the hamon that drip down towards the edge. Sometimes a repeating motif, like sanbonsugi [three cedars] or choji [clove] can be utilized to guide the way you want to design the hamon.”

ABS master smith Mike Quesenberry agrees that there are hallmarks to a good hamon that are readily discernable.

“First and foremost, a good hamon will not come down to the cutting edge,” he remarked. “That is a no-no because it is bringing down soft steel where you want hard steel. I want a bigger transition area, and you can credit the Japanese for starting it. As the technology evolved over hundreds of years, they found bits and pieces coming down from the hamon, giving strength to the edge.”

ABS master smith Brion Tomberlin adds that the proper hamon is visible to the eye even when the maker is finishing the grinding process at 120 grit.

“The Japanese have many terms for effects you see and want to see in a nice hamon,” he commented. “And you can spend years studying these. For our purposes, you want it to be very visible and make a very visible demarcation from the hardened area to the softer area. Additional effects such as ashi, which are wispy cloud-like formations hanging down from the main line, are nice and show control.”

Steel Selection

Brion Tomberlin stated that low-alloy carbon steels such as W2, W1, 1095 and 1075 yield the greatest success in producing good hamons.
Brion Tomberlin stated that low-alloy carbon steels such as W2, W1, 1095 and 1075 yield the greatest success in producing good hamons. ABS apprentice smith Jesse Hu forged the 8.5-inch blade of his classic integral chef’s knife from W1. Overall length: 14 inches. (Jocelyn Frasier image)

Success or frustration in the hamon process begins with the proper steel, and BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member/ABS master smith Steve Schwarzer emphasizes that point.

“Steel selection is critical,” he observed. “You want a simple carbon steel with .70 to 1 percent carbon, and guys are doing ‘gee whiz’ work using a formula with W2 steel, which is a very simple steel. The time-temperature-transformation curve is important, and alloy widens the curve. Too much alloy in the steel won’t transform fast enough to achieve the hamon pattern you want.”

Tomberlin added that low-alloy carbon steels yield the greatest success, and these include W2, W1, 1095 and 1075.

“The maker should look at the certifications for the steel to see the composition,” he recommended. “You want a steel low in manganese, as manganese promotes deep hardening instead of shallow hardening, which we want. We want the transformation of austenite to martensite to be fast upon quenching in order to achieve a hamon, and shallow hardening steels are what is needed. Can you achieve hamons with other steels? Yes, in some cases where the manganese is lower, but they usually do not have the activity or effects you would like to see. My go-to steel is W2.”

Creating A Hamon

Eliott Robinson provides ashi in ample supply on the 5-inch blade of his fighter.
Ashi, which Brion Tomberlin describes as “wispy cloud-like formations hanging down from the main line [of the hamon], are nice and show control.” Eliott Robinson provides ashi in ample supply on the 5-inch blade of his fighter. Blade material: U10A carbon steel. (SharpByCoop image)

After the heat treating and hardening process develops the desired hamon, bringing out the robust visual aesthetic is a process in itself that, according to Carrillo, varies from bladesmith to bladesmith.

“All makers have different ways of polishing out their hamon, and these methods evolve over time or to suit a particular project or aesthetic need,” he observed. “My technique has evolved over time but works for 90 percent of the work I do, and is a good way to practice bringing out all the activity you want to see in the steel.”

For his technique, Carrillo grinds the blade to 220 grit; polishes it to 800 grit using a hard backer for the sandpaper; cleans the blade completely using acetone, dish soap or rottenstone while making sure water does not bead up on it; etches it in ferric chloride; removes oxides completely using fine grit sandpaper; assembles; and then oils.

Quesenberry follows a similar protocol.

“I have a blade in front of me and I’m going to a hammer-in this weekend. I will take it up to 800-grit finish and dip it in ferric chloride,” he said, “and then I’ll wait until it turns black depending on the strength of the ferric. Once it’s black I neutralize it with Windex and then pull with a gray 3M polishing cloth in nice, even and straight lines, removing the black to get the white for the ashi to pop.”

Faux Hamons

Emiliano Carrillo outfitted the blade of his K-Tip Gyuto with a clayed hamon.
Emiliano Carrillo outfitted the blade of his K-Tip Gyuto with a clayed hamon. The handle is bird’s-eye maple, as is the saya (sheath), which includes a black walnut liner and a bamboo menugi (ornament) to keep the blade in place. (SharpByCoop image)

To dispel one common question, bladesmiths confirm that all knives do not have hamons. As Carrillo says, “There may be areas of decarb on the blade that may be mistaken for a hamon, but it is only surface level.”

At the same time, some factory-produced blades may have a fake hamon etched onto the blade to make the piece more attractive to the potential buyer.

“If a hamon has been etched on, a perfectly clean line is generally seen,” he added. “It doesn’t have any of the cloudiness or desired fuzziness seen in the line on a real hamon. The fake ones are generally very white and too regular to be a metallurgical effect.”

Kyle Hanson demonstrates a hamon here on his no-nonsense hunting knife.
The blades even of smaller knives such as folders and hunters provide a solid canvas for a hamon, as Kyle Hanson demonstrates here on his no-nonsense hunting knife. (SharpByCoop image)

Tomberlin has seen a false hamon from time to time and says the technique to achieve one is quite different from the genuine article.

“This is usually done by selective etching or different polishing techniques,” he advised. “It is hard to explain how to tell, but if you see one versus a true hamon it stands out immediately, usually as too regular with no effects at all. Also, there is usually a very sharp demarcation line from highly polished to etched, and this is especially prevalent in some pieces from overseas.”

What Makes A Good And Bad Hamon

Separating the good hamon from the bad hamon may require practice. In some cases the differences are obvious but in others, they are more subtle. The professionals have seen it all.

“The biggest issues of a poorly done hamon are things like fading away in some areas or, yes, going off the edge of the blade,” Tomberlin related. “If the hamon fades off the edge that means your edge is not hard in that area, which is not good. The main causes of this are clay coating being too thick and improper heating of the blade when bringing it up to quench temperature. The main issue I have seen is the hamon going off the edge. As long as you have the edge hard you have a hamon.

Will Newham achieved a hamon on his Best Chef’s Knife winner from the 2023 Sydney Knife Show.
According to Emiliano Carrillo, a hamon should be high enough that the knife can support a lifetime of sharpening and removal of edge material without biting into the soft material above it. Will Newham achieved such a hamon on his Best Chef’s Knife winner from the 2023 Sydney Knife Show. (SharpByCoop image)

“Poorly done polishing will show up also. A well done hamon takes time both before and after quenching. Trying to cut corners on polishing will definitely show. As for a lack of activity in the hamon, such as being straight instead of having hills and valleys, someone told me a number of years ago that one of the hardest things to do well is a simple straight hamon called a suguha.”

Schwarzer sees crispness in the boundaries of a good hamon and acknowledges that heat treating and polishing techniques are critical in bringing that out.

“In the early ABS [American Bladesmith Society] we used an edge quench to get a hamon, and that is the mainstay of the ABS today,” he said. “In testing now you rarely see a hamon because you don’t see as much polishing as necessary to get you through the test. You can’t bring it out with a buffer. It’s almost like a metallurgical polish so you can see the grain in the steel.”

The well done hamon represents an art form in itself, and Quesenberry is impressed with the current wave of artistic impression.

ABS apprentice smith Aidan Garrity outfits the hamon of the 10.5-inch blade of his V-44 repro with hints of ashi
ABS apprentice smith Aidan Garrity outfits the hamon of the 10.5-inch blade of his V-44 repro with hints of ashi. Blade material: W2 tool steel. Handle: carbon fiber. Overall length: 15.5 inches. (SharpByCoop image)

“People have ‘Americanized’ it I guess you could say, and I can do a decent hamon. But some guys out there have absolutely nailed it,” he smiled. “They can paint pictures with theirs using the clay and the heat treating process. You have to be careful not to over-refine the steel grain structure, especially in W2 shallow hardening steel, or you won’t get good results. There is a dance to it.”

The perfection of the hamon process, start to finish, steel and clay, temperature to quench and harden, has fascinated the bladesmith and the admirer of the finished product for centuries. Looking down the road, the possibilities are infinite.

Yet being aware of the good versus the inferior product adds even further to real appreciation of the process.

More On Hamons:

How To Sharpen Recurve Knives

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We outline how to put an edge back on a recurve knife, both by manual and automated systems.

Editor’s note: In addition to holding down a full-time job, being a BLADE® field editor for many years and conducting several sharpening seminars and BLADE University classes on the subject, the author also runs a sharpening service. All the sharpeners illustrated in the story are in his collection.

Face it—recurve blades are just plain sexy. The way the cutting edge adopts a sinewy figure is unlike most any other blade pattern and definitely catches the eye. 

A fun fact about recurve blades: the cutting edge is always longer than a standard blade of the exact same size. How? If you were to take the recurve edge and straighten it out and compare it with a more conventional blade of the same length, the recurve cutting edge would always be longer. Why? The curves pack in more steel real estate in the same overall blade length. Recurves are practical as well, as the curved part presents itself at an angle to whatever is being cut and therefore slices it more efficiently.
  
While recurves are attractive and functional, some folks tend to steer clear of them because they assume the edges must be difficult to sharpen. It’s the curvature that throws them off. I’m here to tell you that recurves are not hard to sharpen at all if you have the right sharpener. Once you have the right sharpener, the steps you follow are exactly the same as if you were sharpening a standard blade.   

Type Of Recurve Sharpeners

Sharpeners with rounded profiles
These manual sharpeners with rounded profiles not only are good for serrations but are for recurve blades as well. From top: DMT FSKC Diafold Serrations Sharpener Coarse Grit, Coast SP245 and GATCO Scepter 2.0.

What sharpener do you use for recurve blades? There are actually quite a few sharpeners that are best suited. Some you may already have and didn’t know they would do the job. The appropriate sharpener has a round profile, as the round part always makes contact with the cutting edge regardless of how recurved the blade gets. I recommend that the sharpener be diamond coated since diamond works exceptionally well with the harder, more wear-resistant steels popular today such as—though not limited to—the CPMs of S30V, 20CV, S35VN, S45VN and MagnaCut.

The “V” approach of the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker is another effective way to sharpen recurves manually.
The “V” approach of the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker is another effective way to sharpen recurves manually.

In this article, I first show you how to properly sharpen recurve knives using a manual sharpener. The technique is the same regardless of which sharpener you use. Then I demonstrate how I sharpen recurve blades using a powered method. As the editor was so kind to point out, I run a sharpening service on the side as well, and I have years of experience sharpening all sorts of blades. My way is reserved for more advanced and more accomplished sharpening skills only.

How To Sharpen Recurve Knives

Manual Sharpening

Using a black permanent marker, preferably with a chisel tip, color in the entire length of the cutting edge on both sides of the blade.

Manual Step 1: Using a black permanent marker, preferably with a chisel tip, color in the entire length of the cutting edge on both sides of the blade.

Manual Step 2: Take a round profile sharpener—the author uses the EZE-Lap folding diamond sharpener—and, holding the blade to it at approximately a 20-degree angle, start at the tang and move your way down to the tip in one fluid motion.

A round profile sharpener
Evaluating the blade

Manual Step 3: Stop after a few strokes and look to see where the marker ink remains. This is an indicator of the need to adjust your angle more or adjust it less. And that, my friends, is pretty much how to sharpen recurves. Simple, safe and effective. This is a failproof method.

Automated Sharpening

Automated Step 1: The author uses his Ken Onion Elite Sharpener from Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment to sharpen recurves. The illustrated belt deflection helps the belt to conform to the cutting edge as it curves.

The author uses his Ken Onion Elite Sharpener from Work Sharp
Sharpening the recurve knife on a machine

Automated Step 2: The author sharpens the recurve blade as he would any standard blade by pulling it across the belt from choil to tip on both sides. Use the same motion when sharpening a recurve on a manual sharpener.

Automated Step 3: After sharpening, the author strops the edge using a leather strop to wipe off any micro burrs that form.

stroping the edge
Giving the recurve a few swipes on knife steel

Automated Step 4: After stropping, the author gives the recurve a few swipes on a hanging kitchen knife steel to give the edge extra bite.  

More Sharpening Articles:
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