Page 59 – BLADE Magazine

Keychain Knives: Unlocking The Secrets To The Convenience Blade

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March 25, 2024

Keychain Knives: Unlocking The Secrets To The Convenience Blade

Handy keychain knives are pocket pards ready to sever and serve.

As competitive as today’s cutlery market is, it behooves a factory knife company to fill as many categories as it can—including the keychain knife. In fact, keychain knives offer a number of the same utilitarian functions as many contemporary tacticals and EDCs. Whether you need a small knife to handle daily chores or a back-up to your back-up in an emergency, a keychain knife can answer the call.

Bear & Son 3-inch Keychain Knife

The Bear & Son 3-inch Keychain Knife is a study in curves and its all-silver frame and blade add a classy touch. The blade sports a brushed finish and rolls out via a nail nick. Key hauling is handled by a 1-inch flat split ring on the base, very adequate unless you carry a large number of keys. In that case you can always add a larger split ring. A cap lifter is on the lower backside of the handle.

I sliced 1-inch-diameter smoked sausage and the blade performed admirably—not that you’d typically grab your keychain knife to perform such a task but it’s there if you need it. The cap lifter is handy. There is no pocket clip but the Bear & Son is not overburdening for loose pocket carry. This is a stout keychain knife well worth the money.

Schrade Roadie

The Schrade Roadie is a little bulldog of a keychain knife that doesn’t pretend to be anything else—it’s strictly a knife. In fact, it looks like a squeezed tactical folder. The blade opens via a flipper tab. The handle is black G-10 over black-coated stainless liners, with the rear liner serving as an unusual exposed locking leaf. Keys carry via a 4-inch black ball chain that dangles approximately 2 inches off a hole in the base.

I tested the blade on 3/8-inch synthetic rappelling rope to see how the reverse tanto pattern—a cousin to a modified wharncliffe—performed. It had no problem taking 3/8-to-1/2-inch slices in a single pass. The grip is excellent, aided even more by gimping on the upper rear handle close to the blade spine. This is a heck of a small knife and I only had one beef with it—the ball-chain key dangler. With the weight of keys tugging on the chain both sloshing around inside the pocket and while in use, you are asking for it to break. By the nature of ball-chain construction there are simply too many points along the way it can fail. I’ve got a remedy for that I’ll discuss later.

Smith & Wesson Stonewash Keychain

Smith & Wesson keychain knife — The Smith & Wesson’s 2.1-inch drop-point blade of ti-nitride-coated 8Cr13MoV stainless steel sliced its way through 1/8-inch harness leather, something the author indicated the other knives would have more trouble doing. Weight: 2 ounces. Closed length: 3.2 inches.

The Smith & Wesson Stonewash Keychain is the largest of the test bunch and it, too, resembles a scaled-down tactical folder. There’s a cap-lifter cut-out on the back frame slab. Keys mount at the base using a 3-inch ball-chain loop. This is the first of two review knives with a convenient pocket clip. The keys must be removed before using it because the clip is mounted for tip-up carry only, and if you use the keys they will hang out the top of your pocket. If this is acceptable to you, go for it.

I tested the blade on 2-inch-wide harness leather. Looping the leather strip over I did pull-throughs and found the little cutter more than up to the task. The framelock knife is built like a tank with the exception of a ball-chain key carrier which, as stated, I believe will give you issues down the road. That said, if you’re comfortable with it, go for it. I like this otherwise sturdy knife and it’s worth every penny of the price tag.

Gerber Key Note

Key Note cutting leather — The Key Note’s satin-finished 5Cr stainless blade is too short for slicing but the tip scores quite well.

The Gerber Key Note wins the Keychain Outside The Box Award for its sheer imaginative design. With a stubby tanto blade, this offering radically differs from the pack. Both praised and panned on YouTube, the Key Note’s stubby .8-inch double-ground blade is certainly different. The frame has black-anodized aluminum rails with black stainless steel liners, the front which houses a linerlock. A flipper on the back side of the tang gets the blade rolling but only deploys it halfway, after which you pinch it for full deployment. You can also use the nail nick. Two nice touches are a wide tip-down pocket clip and a healthy 1.25-inch-diameter split ring for holding keys.

The blade is limited by its small size but I found it useful in scoring mode taking off strips of suede leather, and it is a heck of a box cutter. It will also push-cut paracord on a flat surface. The beefy tip-down pocket clip can be used with keys attached. The amply sized split ring is the best of the test knives, providing plenty of room for key-a-holics.

Is the Gerber Key Note different? Yes, but it may do just what you need a keychain knife to do.

Keychain Knife Carry Options

keychain knife carriers — Modifying a keychain knife to suit your preferred carry can be done any number of ways. Examples include, from left: lanyard mini-carabiner for neck carry, a belt clip with split ring, the Roadie with ball chain removed, ready to modify, and a quick-release carrier that allows you to easily separate the knife from the keys.

There are other ways to carry these diminutive cutters than in or on the pocket. Accessories and findings (jewelry making parts) can be had by a various number of sources such as hobby stores, online at eBay and Etsy, or by doing an internet jewelry search such as Rio Grande Jewelry Making Supplies. Neck lanyards, belt clips, split rings large and small, breakaway connectors, small carabiners, and more are all available to modify your keychain carry to suit you. Any one of our candidates may suit your tastes as is, but if you want to mod it to suit your needs, there are plenty of options!

Check Out More Buyer’s Guides:

Best EDC Fixed Blade Knife Options
Best Bushcraft Knife: When Steel Meets The Woods
Best Neck Knife: Options To Yoke Up With
Best Tomahawks: Our Top Hawks For Backwoods To Battlefields

Collaboration Knives That Cut To The Quick

BLADE Staff

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March 25, 2024

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Collaboration Knives That Cut To The Quick

Designers and companies join forces to help consumers win with these knife collaborations.

A collaboration knife is produced when a designer or knifemaker partners up with a knife company to produce a particular knife. And more often times than not, such models offer the best of both worlds. Designers able to focus purely on designing and not confined to the limits of their shop can shoot for the stars. While companies take the reigns of producing the knife to exacting specs and usually at a buyer’s price. In the end, the knife consumer wins. Here is a handful of the latest collaboration drops certain to get knife aficionados juices flowing.

Harlock Mini / Boker Plus

If you’re looking for an elegant knife present for that special someone, you could do a lot worse than gift him or her the Boker Plus Harlock Mini designed by custom knifemaker Darriel Caston.

Designer: Darriel Caston
Knife type: Push-button automatic
Blade length: 2.05”
Blade steel: Black-coated 154 CM stainless
Blade grind: Convex
Handle material: Black-coated aluminum
Hardware: Brass
Knife to Know: A latching slide lock locks the blade closed and prevents accidental release
Closed length: 2.87”
Carry: Pocket clip and nylon pouch
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $146

A.P.C. (Always. Pocket. Carry.) / CRKT

Unlike traditional slip joints, Steigerwalt’s new slip joint design for CRKT does not have a standard steel backspring. Instead, the slip joint springs from the liners and connects the liner springs with a hardened steel block that contacts the heel of the blade, eliminating the need for the backspring. Among other advantages, this reduces a fair amount of the weight a backspring would add, there is more space inside the handle to hold a wider blade, the position of the blade pivot pin can be changed and more.

Designer: Ken Steigerwalt
Knife type: Slip joint
Blade length: 2.88”
Blade steel: Bohler M390 stainless
Rockwell hardness: 59-61 HRC
Blade grind: Flat
Handle material: Fat Carbon Dark Matter
Weight: 1.7 ozs.
Closed length: 3.72”
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $175

The Sicilian / Fox Knives

According to Fox’s Athena Greta Barbieri, “Bob Terzuola conceived the Sicilian taking inspiration from traditional knives used by ordinary people for everyday activities such as eating or working in the fields. The idea for this knife evokes images of landscapes warmed by the Sicilian sun and simple meals eaten among olive trees and vineyards.”

Designer: BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member Bob Terzuola
Knife type: EDC folder
Blade length: 3.35”
Blade steel: BECUT stainless
Rockwell hardness: 58-60 HRC
Blade @ thickest: .12”
Blade finish: Stonewashed
Blade opener: Disc
Handle material: OD green canvas Micarta®
Spacer: Aluminum anodized orange
Pocket clip: Wire
Lock: Linerlock
Weight: 3.53 ozs.
Closed length: 4.52”
Country of origin: Italy
MSRP: $164

Prohen XR / SOG

Designed by custom knifemaker Mikkel Willumsen for SOG, the beefy Prohen XR flipper folder is a mix of curves and angles that features the XR Lock, a sliding transverse bar that locks the blade in place and promotes ambidextrous one-hand operation.

Designer: Mikkel Willumsen
Knife type: Flipper folder
Blade length: 3.4”
Blade material: Cryo D2 tool steel
Blade @ thickest: .157”
Blade grind: Flat
Blade pattern: Drop point
Blade finish: TiNi
Blade opener: Flipper tab or thumb hole
Handle: G-10
Pocket clip: Reversible, low carry
Lock: XR Lock
Knife to know: The XR Lock can withstand 1,500 lbs. of force
Weight: 5.6 ozs.
Closed length: 4.8”
Country of origin: China
MSRP: $70

Dmitry Sinkevich / Spyderco

The Spyderco knife’s handle includes a titanium scale on one side and a solid carbon fiber scale and nested stainless steel liner on the other. The titanium scale is “webbed” to reduce weight and forms the basis for the knife’s Reeve Integral Lock (R.I.L.) mechanism, which includes a long-wearing stainless steel interface. Both scales are meticulously machined with the intricate “drunken” texture that gives the knife its name, and are accented by a matching color-anodized backspacer, pivot assembly, and right-side, tip-up pocket clip.

Designer: Dmitry Sinkevich
Blade length: 3.45”
Blade steel: CPM S90V stainless
Blade grind: Full-flat
Blade @ thickest: .138”
Blade finish: Tumbled
Handle: Carbon fiber/ titanium
Pocket clip: Right-handed, blade tip up
Lock: R.I.L. (Reeve Integral Lock)
Weight: 3.8 ozs.
Closed length: 4.61”
Country of origin: Taiwan
MSRP: $770

More On Collaboration Knives:

ANDY SHARPE/CHUCK RICHARDS COLLABORATION SALUTES THE HEROES OF THE BATTLE OF ATTU
FRIEDLY/RUDOLPH COLLABORATION IS AN HOMAGE TO AMERICAN INDIAN CULTURE
WHICH KNIFE COLLABORATIONS WOULD YOU ARRANGE?

American Knife Boom: Roundtable With Top Knifemakers

Kitchen Knives

Dexter Ewing

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March 22, 2024

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American Knife Boom: Roundtable With Top Knifemakers

Four U.S. knife manufacturers talk making knives in the USA

Editor’s note: Last time, BLADE® featured four of today’s U.S.-based knife manufacturers ranging from long-time companies to the latest factory operations: Emerson Knives, Inc., White River Knife & Tool, Tactile Knife Co. and Montana Knife Co. (MKC). This time the author asks the respective principals of each company—Ernest Emerson, John Cammenga Sr., Will Hodges and Josh Smith—about their success, the high cost of making knives in America, and the future of the U.S. factory knife industry.

BLADE: What are some of the most difficult things about making knives and staying profitable in today’s market?
CAMMENGA: I’m sure most companies in our industry feel the same. Most challenges are from heavy taxation, excessive regulation, and now, expensive capital.
SMITH: The taxes and regulations we deal with make it difficult to have margins that China-made-knife companies have.
HODGES: Our price points are pretty reasonable compared to other made-in-USA companies, which has been hard.

BLADE: John, you’ve mentioned that finding reliable help is also an issue. Would any of the rest of you like to comment?
HODGES: We’ve been very fortunate to find great employees that are dedicated to the mission.

White River Fillet Knife — White River’s John Cammenga indicated he remains excited about making outdoor knives. Fillet knives are among the company’s specialties, including the Traditional Fillet model, here in a choice of Micarta® and Micarta-with-cork grips. The 6-inch blades are 440C stainless. MSRPs: $140 to $150. (Josh Wayner image)

BLADE: Ernest, you’ve said that the main competition to all USA knife companies is competition from overseas. Please elaborate.
EMERSON: [We are] competing against companies that manufacture or buy their knives for under $20 apiece and then sell them for the same price as we do. As China made considerable inroads in the knife industry, one of their major advantages was labor force, thus being able to produce quality products at reduced prices. This kept the entire industry on its toes and the American companies no doubt started feeling the pinch in a big way.

BLADE: Why is it so much more expensive to make knives in America than overseas?
HODGES: The biggest factor is labor. I’m dedicated to paying my employees well and providing health insurance, paid time off, a 401K and a great working environment. If you want to have good employees, you want to treat them well in hopes that you will retain such help. Investing in your employees in this way is a bit costly but it’s the price of doing business.
CAMMENGA: It is simply not a level playing field. We are committed to making it work here [in the USA]. We are committed to our employees and customers alike by making our knives in the USA and using USA-sourced materials as well.
SMITH: Employee wages factor into this as well. Our dollar per hour paid is what [Chinese] workers get paid per day.
EMERSON: [There’s also the] usual regulations and taxes and the cost of setting up shop here in the USA. American wages, American raw materials, American taxes, American restrictions, all of those good things go into it.

At Tactile Knife Co., Will Hodges said good help is key. “I’m dedicated to paying my employees well and providing health insurance, paid time off, a 401K and a great working environment,” he noted. Tactile’s most recent launch is the Archer framelock folder designed by knifemaker TJ Schwarz.

BLADE: There are some advantages to making knives in the USA that you hold over those who make them overseas. What are those and how do you try to capitalize on them?
EMERSON: Through the generations my entire family spent time in service to this country, and I never will forget that. I never wanted to do anything but put Americans to work. I never wanted to be anything except an American-made manufacturer, American-made company.
SMITH: Making knives in the USA has allowed companies like Montana Knife to be more agile as a company. Our knives and materials do not sit in container ships for months. We can ramp up and slow down production in real time, thus allowing us to respond to customer demand.
CAMMENGA: This means not having to be at the mercy of the almighty supply chain. It is very nice not to have supply chain issues, increasingly expensive overseas shipping, and concerns over the geopolitical landscape.

Knife Grinding — Josh Smith said one of the reasons American knives are so expensive to make is differences in employee wages. “Our dollar per hour paid is what [Chinese] workers get paid per day,” he observed. A Montana Knife Co. fixed blade gets an edge touchup.

BLADE: Will, you said that there are advantages to making friends in the knife industry. How so?
HODGES: When we run into an issue, we have plenty of friends to go to for advice. As much as the companies in this industry are in competition with each other, they are also there to help each other out as well.
CAMMENGA: We have benefitted from the current re-shoring trends in our OEM work. [Author’s note: As mentioned last time, White River Knife & Tool also does OEM manufacturing work, making knives for other companies as well as knives under its own brand. So, you may or may not own a White River knife without knowing it!]

Emerson Knives Kwaiken and Mini Sheepdog — As you might guess and as Ernest Emerson indicated, U.S. regulations and taxes are another cost additive to making knives domestically. Two of the most popular knives in the Emerson line are the Kwaiken (top) and the Mini Sheepdog (bottom), each equipped with the Wave Shaped Feature for fast and easy opening. (Knives from the author’s collection; Marty Stanfield knife image)

BLADE: What can BLADE readers expect in your next big knifemaking project, and when do you expect it to be available for public consumption?
CAMMENGA: We are excited about producing some of the finest outdoor fixed blades and have some folding knives in the works. We hope to have at least one folding model out in 2024 and several more in 2025.
HODGES: We are excited about our most recent launch, the Archer framelock folder designed by knifemaker TJ Schwarz. It’s a heavy-duty design that is a different direction than our current Maverick folder. We do have another fun launch that should happen by the time BLADE readers read this.
SMITH: Twenty-twenty-four will be the year that Montana Knife Co. will experience more product line diversity. We will shift into the culinary end heavily. Additionally, we are going into the tactical knife space. We estimated that by the mid-third quarter, MKC’s tactical knives will be out on the market. We also have some really cool collaborations coming with well-known people.

CQC-7 Is25

Sharpening A knife — As John Cammenga observed, another advantage to making knives stateside is not being at the mercy of the supply chain, increasingly expensive overseas shipping, and concerns over the geopolitical landscape. A White River fixed blade gets an edge tune-up.

For Emerson Knives, Inc., 2024 will be the silver anniversary of the CQC-7, so expect some exciting surprises to commemorate the iconic tactical folder. Lucas Emerson, Ernest’s son, has become an accomplished knifemaker and designer in his own right, and the company will debut the first folder designed by the younger Emerson, the MX200. Emerson-made automatic openers will be a reality as Emerson is tooling up to produce the knives in a satellite facility in Colorado. Ernest said he hopes to introduce the prototypes at this year’s BLADE Show. And, finally, a kitchen cutlery line will augment the Emerson tactical knife line, too.

Emerson Knives, Inc., Montana Knife Co., Tactile Knife Co. and White River Knife & Tool—look for these and other outstanding U.S.-based knife companies to expand their knife lines and enlist you in what shapes up to be the Great American Knife Boom.

Check Out More Of Tools Of The Pros:

Nothing Foul Or Fishy About These Bird And Trout Knives

Reuben Bolieu

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March 20, 2024

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Nothing Foul Or Fishy About These Bird And Trout Knives

Know what they are, how to use them and how well they perform.

A bird and trout knife is a compact, fixed blade designed for hunters and anglers to process small game and fish, such as squirrels, rabbits, birds and trout. The knives are known for their portability and convenience, as they can easily fit into a backpack or pocket. The name is derived from the knife’s popularity among outdoor enthusiasts who require a reliable tool to assist them in their hunting or fishing activities.

When choosing a hunting or fishing knife, there are a few key factors to consider. First and foremost, the blade material is essential. To ensure optimal performance and longevity, your blade should be crafted from high-quality stainless or carbon steels. Equally important is the blade design; a thin, flexible drop- or trailing-point shape will allow for easy filleting and deboning, and precise cuts and slices. The handle should also be comfortable and ergonomic, with a good grip and balance.

Bird and Trout Knife and Sheaths — The sheaths are simple affairs, usually made from leather with a belt loop. The Exodus 3 has a Kydex sheath (right) made for scout carry.

A secure and durable sheath is a must-have. Some even feature a thumb lock to prevent accidental slips. Remember these factors for a trusty tool that you will keep by your side for years to come.

Case Mini Finn

The small knife in the C a se leather hunter two-knife hunting set is the Mini Finn, sold separately. It’s a durable, reliable fixed blade for outdoors, hunting and hiking. The rugged knife features a 3.13-inch clip-point blade and polished leather handle for a secure grip. Blade steel is Tru-Sharp™ stainless, Case’s version of 420HC. The knife is ideal for small game.

EVALUATION: The blade was sharp from the get-go. Small and agile, the knife and its concave-ground blade proved perfect for the tasks it was dealt. A section about 1 inch long on the spine has subtle ridges for purchase if that’s how you like to grip a knife.

Mini Finn making feather stick — Making a feather stick was a snap with the Mini Finn.

The blade quickly sliced the only bird in season—chicken—for kabobs in the cabin. When making tent stakes the blade sliced through green witch hazel with authority. The handle is a hidden gem, paying homage to the traditional stacked-leather grip. Holding it feels like a throwback to the early 1900s Finnish style. The knife has a decent finger guard and a grip for three fingers. However, when the Mini Finn is held in a sideways or chest-lever grip, the buttcap feels a bit awkward.

A simple leather sheath completes the package. It sports a drain hole and can be worn on a thin belt or as a neck knife. The sheath is basic—nothing new under the sun—but why change a good thing? The Mini Finn is easily the best buy of the test quartet.

Case Mini Finn Specs
Blade Length: 3.13”
Blade Steel: Tru-Sharp™ Stainless
Blade @ Thickest: .062”
Blade Finish: Mirror polished
Scales: Leather
Weight: 2.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.5”
Sheath: Leather
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $82.99

ESEE CR2.5

The ESEE CR2.5 is a little bird-and-trout-style knife designed by Cody Rowen of Rowen Manufacturing. It features a sturdy 1095 carbon steel blade with a black-oxide-stonewashed finish and ESEE logo. It is lightweight and easy to carry. The handle is available in Micarta® or G-10, providing a comfortable and secure grip.

Evaluation: This slick little cutter is an excellent tool for fishing, small game hunting and general woodcraft. The blade is flat ground and has a sharp 90-degree spine that can be used to scrape tinder with a ferro rod. During a survival class in Alabama, it was used to carve feather sticks and scrape fine wood shavings for a fire. Additionally, it proved handy for skinning squirrels.

Butchering with the CR2.5 — The CR2.5 makes butchering effortless, especially for small, delicate game like birds and trout—and squirrels.

The handle has a comfortable grip for three to four fingers. With use, it will develop a patina similar to the blade. ESEE offers the grip in orange G-10 and Micarta. A leather pouch-style sheath, which can be used as a necker due to its light weight, keeps the knife secure and safe. There’s no drain hole on this one but it has a generously sized belt loop.

Paired with a chopper, the CR2.5 will definitely get it done. It takes third place among the test bunch as the best buy for the money.

ESEE CR2.5 Specs
Designer: Cody Rowen
Blade Length: 2.5”
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Rockwell Hardness: 55-57 HRC
Blade @ Thickest: .125”
Blade Finish: Black oxide stonewashed
Scales: Micarta® or G-10
Weight: 2.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.25”
Sheath: Leather pouch
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $143.50

TOPS Knives Bird and Trout Knife (BTK)

TOPS BTK bird and trout knife — The TOPS BTK excels at delicate work like scoring salmon skin and scaling. The slight upsweep helps ensure the tip doesn’t penetrate anything it shouldn’t.

Allen Jensen, also known as the Axeman, designed the TOPS Knives Bird and Trout Knife (BTK). With a stainless steel blade, a stonewash finish and a black canvas Micarta handle, the knife is perfect for camping, kitchen chores and other outdoor activities. The handle design allows multiple grip options, making it a great skinning tool for tough hides like bear and beaver.

Evaluation: Of the test bunch, the BTK is closest to a regular-size fixed blade. The blade shape’s slight upsweep lends itself well to food preparation, especially from a standing position. The blade came extremely sharp and performed flawlessly, especially processing food. I used the BTK to section a piece of fresh salmon and as a fish scaler. The upsweep didn’t tear any of the fillet in the process. The sharp edge scored the skin quickly, aiding in rendering super-crunchy-skin salmon.

Battoning with the BTK — The TOPS BTK is a superb EDC knife for the woods. Due in no small part to the blade’s healthy .13-inch thickness, it easily baton cut through green witch hazel

The handle features an ergonomic design, providing a secure grip when it’s gooey. The scales don’t extend to the blade, allowing greater versatility when choking up for skinning.

The choice of black leather for the sheath was wise, as it hides stains from food and game. The sheath is heavy duty and comes with an average belt loop, but no drain hole. The BTK is the priciest of the bunch but well worth it.

TOPS Knives BTK Specs
Designer: Allen Jensen
Blade Length: 3”
Blade Steel: 440C stainless
Rockwell Hardness: Cryo-treated to 58-60 HRC
Blade @ Thickest: .13”
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Black canvas Micarta®
Weight: 3.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.75”
Sheath: Black leather
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $175

White River Knife & Tool Exodus 3

Exodus 3 bird and trout knife — Using the Exodus 3, the author created an eight-notch try stick. He tested the knife’s ability to slice through green wood and found the narrow blade allowed easy maneuvering in small spaces.

The lightweight White River Knife & Tool Exodus 3, also known as Adventurecraft, is a small but robust survival knife. It’s the perfect size for bird and trout tasks, game dressing, food preparation and everyday carry.

Evaluation: Rather than the regular use as before, I put this one through a special gauntlet. The blade is tough. The thick spine culminates in a thin, flat grind—it’s a slicer. I wasted no time making an eight-notch try stick*. The blade’s geometry sliced through green wood like butter. I moved onto a survival fishing spear made from dry maple and the edge had no issues muscling through the seasoned wood. As a final coup de gras, I pounded the blade into an ammo canister. The blade remained unscathed and I was not surprised.

The author employed the Exodus 3 to make a spear for fish and frog gigging. The knife effectively balances between being a bird and trout knife and woods companion.

The handle is long enough for a four-finger grip yet is the narrowest of the test knives. Narrow handles can lead to fatigue by overcompensating when gripping. The scales are a “10” on the cool factor scale and provide a secure grip to back it up.

The Exodus 3 was the only test knife I could scout carry, keeping it out of the way when on the trail or in camp. Blade retention also was outstanding in the sheath and on the belt. The knife is the second best buy of the gang.

White River Exodus 3 Specs
Blade Length: 3.15”
Blade Steel: CPM S35VN stainless
Blade @ Thickest: .13”
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Canvas Micarta®
Weight: 2.3 ozs.
Overall Length: 7.2”
Sheath: Black Kydex
Country of Origin: USA
MSRP: $140

*In bushcraft, a try stick is a wooden stick carved with notches for use as a teaching aid.

More Outdoor Knives:

BEST CAMP KNIVES: OUTDOORS DO-ALLS
BEST BUSHCRAFT KNIFE: WHEN STEEL MEETS THE WOODS
WHAT DEFINES THE BEST CUSTOM HUNTING KNIVES?
BEST SKINNING KNIVES: WHEN YOU DRESS THE KILL

What Makes The Perfect Pocketknife?

Folding Knives

Jason Fry

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March 19, 2024

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Decades ago in America the pocketknife was universal, with such patterns as the barlow, stockman, trapper and folding hunter well represented in the pockets of our fathers, grandfathers and great-grandfathers. But what about today, when the most likely pocketknife task is opening an Amazon box or trimming a string off a shirt? To find out not only what folks are carrying but why, BLADE® asked several industry insiders, “What makes the perfect pocketknife?”

Pocket Knife Funtionality

Let’s begin our hunt with a look at the past. Many BLADE readers know Joe Culpepper for his and wife Kristi’s knife handle material business, Culpepper & Co. For many years the Culpeppers have provided the knife industry with quality jigged bone, Sambar stag and other exotic materials. Joe is also a student of the slip-joint/traditional pocketknife in all its variations, and sells vintage knives under the business name of Old School Knife Works.

Pocketknife fish — A Case knife in damascus is in the traditional fish knife pattern, an early folding fillet knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“A good pocketknife first and foremost should perform and function reliably in the way it was designed,” he began. “Whether we’re talking about an electrician’s knife, fish knife, melon tester or trapper, the most important thing is that it does its job.”

Pocketknife melon tester — The melon tester pattern, here in an advertising knife configuration, almost always has a long, thin single blade. (Old School Knife Works image)

It has been a while since I used a knife to test a melon and Joe, too, was quick to acknowledge that many of the knife tasks of yesteryear have fallen by the wayside. “Frankly,” he admitted, “many of our pocketknives are simply just really nice box cutters.”

Pocket Knife Blade Size

Sticking with the nice box cutter theme, Knafs co-founder Ben Petersen added that he likes knives suited to the “dad life”—cutting apples cleanly without splitting them, opening boxes and whittling the occasional stick. “I’m not out to stab people,” he grinned. “For me, I think a 2.9-inch blade is perfect. Being under 3 inches keeps you safe from most restrictive knife laws, and it also is the perfect length for the finger test.” Ben went on to explain. “Most of the time when I cut, I put my index finger along the spine of the blade,” he noted. “I want the point of the blade right in the middle of my fingertip where it won’t cut me, but also gives me very precise control.”

Pocketknife medford — Medford Knife & Tool offers a range of titanium framelock folders, including the Praetorian T in CPM S35VN stainless blade steel. Weight: 9.3 ounces. Closed length: 4.9 inches. MSRPs start at $785.

Ben had a fun take on the perfect knife. “You know,” he reflected, “to a 12-year-old a gas station knife* is perfect. The perfect knife is totally different to everyone.” I smiled, remembering how much joy my 14-year-old son got from a rusty Bass Pro Shops framelock, missing a screw, that we found in a pasture on a dove hunt.

Types Of Pocketknives

Most of us BLADE readers probably already have a good idea of what we like in a pocketknife. We know if we like small ones or bigger ones for everyday carry. We know the steel types we like, and whether we prefer a single or multi-blade. Joe offered some generalizations that match my experience.

Tradional

Hobo — Another older Case edition, the hobo knife features a blade and fork in a handy pocket-sized folding knife. (Old School Knife Works image)

“As we get more into knives we tend to evolve into one of two categories, and they’re often correlated with age,” he reasoned. “The older generation tends to go for the more traditional slip joints with natural materials and carbon steel like their dad or grandad carried.”

Joe considers some “classic” patterns and brands among his favorites, particularly the knives manufactured pre-1970 by the old American firms that mostly have gone out of business. “When you hold an old Schrade, Empire, Robeson or even a vintage Case you get a certain sense of nostalgia,” he noted.

Modern

Pocketknife hinderer — Jordan Wagner said the market is strong for high-quality USA-made titanium framelocks. Among those fitting the niche is the XM-18 3.5 flipper folder from Rick Hinderer Knives. Closed length: 4.75 inches.

As for the other category, Joe finds that younger folks tend to lean toward modern conveniences like pocket clips, modern steels and the more tactical types of knives like Benchmades. Being just a bit on the older side myself, as well as a bit of a traditionalist, I reached out to Jordan Wagner at DLT Trading for some thoughts about what makes a “perfect pocketknife” from a modern point of view.

From an online merchant’s perspective, he said the market is very strong for quality USA-made framelocks. Titanium framelocks from makers like Rick Hinderer Knives, Chris Reeve Knives, Medford Knife & Tool and custom knifemaker Les George in the $400-to-600 price range continue to be popular.

Knives in the modern category tend to have a few common characteristics. They feature premium blade steels. They all have some kind of one-hand-opening device such as a thumb stud, blade hole, flipper tab, etc. In general, these are mid-tech production or small batch customs made in shops as often as in factories. The next level below the mid-techs are the larger-batch manufactured knives by companies like Zero Tolerance, Spyderco and Benchmade. They’re often high quality, built in factories to tight tolerances and most often made in the USA.

Often within these and other brands are quality, lower-price-point knives made overseas as well, such as the production Demko AD 20.5 made in Taiwan. There are also quality knives made by China-based companies like Reate, WE and its sister brand CIVIVI and others.

Case remains the leader in the current production of traditional patterns. But is it because there’s a demand by knife users for a two-blade trapper? Maybe, maybe not. The folks at Case know and understand that there are two big segments of customers that they serve—users and collectors—and they make patterns to please both groups.

The Perfect Pocketknife?

I think about “perfect” in terms of pragmatism. When was the last time the average knife user needed a hobo knife with a fork? Have you ever seen a titanium framelock melon tester? Culpepper has his finger on the vintage-slip-joint market, and his take is that the rise of social media has opened up huge new audiences to the vintage knives.

“The unique patterns always have a market and a strong following,” he said. “For the unique vintage knives there’s good demand, whether they’re made in the USA or even England or Germany.”

More On Pocketknives:

Why The Pocketknife Endures
Best Pocketknife Options For EDC
Best Pocketknife Brands
How To Close A Pocketknife

Knife Blade Repair: Bringing Old Blades Back To Life

Featured

Dexter Ewing

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March 18, 2024

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Knife Blade Repair: Bringing Old Blades Back To Life

Practice the proper steps with the proper equipment and, most important, be safe and knife blade repair is a snap.

I have been fortunate enough to make not just one but two side hustles out of my knife hobby. First is the obvious—writing for BLADE® Magazine. Second is running a knife-and-tool sharpening service out of my garage, serving folks in my community and metro area with full-service sharpening on most cutting tools found in the home, workshop and garage. I have always had a strong interest in sharpening in general and have been practicing the skill for about as long as I have been into knives in general.

While I sharpen many knives and scissors, I also repair damaged knife blades. Those repairs include—but are not limited to—straightening bent blade tips, fixing severely damaged cutting edges, and regrinding new blade tips from broken ones. While sharpening is something I still enjoy very much and to a degree it remains fun work for me, it’s these minor repairs at customer request that I love doing. You can too provided you have the proper equipment and the desire to learn.

Knife with sharpening stone — In knife blade repair, carbon steel blades make the steps easy as they sharpen up quicker than stainless blades.

Before we get into the thick of blade repair, let’s discuss equipment. I run four Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpening machines—I keep one as a backup or deploy it as backup should I need to augment what I’m already running—plus a 1×30 single-speed belt sander, a “Harbor Freight special.” I do all my sharpening on this equipment.

I have used the Ken Onion Elite since the start of my sharpening service almost 10 years ago. I started out with just one Work Sharp. I added a second one awhile after that. The 1×30 came about from trying to revive a few totally dull butcher knives. In the process, I realized I needed another machine that would be in charge of hogging off material to get a quick starter edge that the Work Sharp machines could sculpt into a razor-sharp edge.

Profiling the blade — After profiling the basic shape of the new tip, the author uses the X65 belt of the Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite sharpener to further massage and fine tune it, as well as blend in the appearance of the blade spine at the tip to match the rest of the spine.

Keep in mind that the Ken Onion Elite is not just a sharpener but also a variable-speed miniature belt sander as well, especially when you turn the unit around 180 degrees and work off the platen side. You can easily work on plastic, PVC, metal and wood. This is also how I regrind new blade tips, as well as fixing blade damage caused by hitting something solid and chipping the edge out. We will dive more into specifics in a bit. It’s important to note here that to do blade repairs of any sort successfully, you must have some sort of variable-speed, motorized, belt-sander-type machine.

DEMO KNIFEThe demo knife is one a coworker on my day job gave me to refurbish. It is a vintage, carbon steel Case jackknife that saw a lot of use in a previous life. The blades were extremely worn down. Both tips were broken off. The main blade was resharpened so much that the cutting edge was a bit on the curved side. Both blades also had some dings in the edge as well. The owner wanted me to rehab the blades by regrinding new tips and sharpening them. I will take you through step by step on what I did and how it was done. WARNING! Please exercise caution when working with power tools such as belt sanders. Should you attempt such a task as outlined in this story, neither I nor BLADE is liable for any injuries that might occur as a result.

Heat Management

Whenever executing such repairs on a knife blade, remember to not let the blade heat up or you can ruin the steel’s heat treat. Always keep a jar filled with water within arm’s reach of your machine and dunk the blade into the water every few seconds to keep it cool. Doing so will ensure that you will not overheat the steel. If working on a larger blade such as a machete, I recommend using a spray bottle filled with water. The blade is simply too long to dunk into a jar, so spraying it down every so often will help. Something else that will help is to have a pair of cut-resistant gloves on hand and always wear them when handling the blade. The gloves usually have a textured coating on the gripping surfaces for the fingers and palms. This will help you hold the blade securely as well as keep your hands and fingers safe from accidental cuts. The gloves usually are inexpensive, less than $10, so there’s no excuse to not have a pair.

Where To Start Repairing A Blade

WARNING! Whenever faced with a blade-tip-rehab task, remember to sharpen the blade last. Why? Because you will be holding the blade as you regrind the new tip. This applies even if you’re wearing cut-proof work gloves.

Blade Tip

When regrinding tips, I always start with my 1×30 sander with an 80-grit Norton Blaze SG belt. It is the orange belt specifically engineered for knifemaking and removing steel. The 1×30 hogs off material and rough shapes the new blade tip.

Knife blade repair shaping the blade — The author reshapes the new tip on the pen blade using the 1×30 belt sander with an 80-grit Norton Blaze SG belt.

I start by visualizing where the new tip is going to lie. I start at the uppermost point of the broken-off tip, usually on the blade spine side. I start grinding at that point and remove material to where eventually a new tip is created. As I grind it down, I also pay attention to the visual “flow” of the new tip and how it transitions to the rest of the blade spine. I may have to round off the harsh angle to blend it back into the spine. A lot of this is done by eye, making everything blend right in. The goal is to make the new blade tip look as though nothing happened.

Blade Shaping

After roughing out the new tip with the 1×30 belt sander, I begin to dial in the final shape of the new tip with the Ken Onion Elite. I have much more control at this juncture due to the less aggressive belt grit and the slower belt speed. I can finesse the new tip on, keeping a close eye on the evenness of the ground-down portion, making it parallel with the rest of the untouched blade spine.

chamfering the edges — The author carefully knocks off the sharp edge at the corner created by rough grinding the new tip.

Finish

After tweaking the new tip to final shape, I concentrate on the finished appearance of the ground portion by holding the knife almost vertical and sanding only on the ground portion, blending it in visually and removing the coarse-grit scratches with the 80-grit belt on the 1×30.

Chamfering And

When everything is blended in visually, the last step is to chamfer the ground portion and remove the crisp corners made by all the sanding. You’ve seen how blade spines have a small, rounded corner on both sides? You are essentially doing that here. Hold the blade at an angle and lightly touch the blade spine to the belt to cut the crisp corner down. Remember: you can always cut more later if needed. The key is to use a light touch and stop only when the corners are smooth to the touch and you don’t detect crisp edges. The result is a new blade tip that is highly functional but doesn’t look “factory,” though it will be awfully close.

Fixing An Uneven Blade

The main blade of the demo knife was worn away unevenly due to years of manual sharpening, so I straightened that out as well. Like the shaping of the new tip, I did the bulk of the straightening of the cutting edge on my 1×30 belt sander. I used a light touch on the belt—I cannot stress enough that it’s easier to grind cautiously—eyeing the straightness of the new cutting edge. Grind a bit then dunk the blade in water to keep it on the cool side.

Straightening the edge — After grinding the new tip on the main blade, the author uses the 1×30 belt sander to straighten the uneven cutting edge by evening it out back to straight. The 80-grit belt eats off material in a hurry. At this juncture the author eyeballs what is to be straight.

Once I attained an even edge, it was time to grind the new edge. Straightening out the edge will cause a wide flat spot on it, so you have to grind the spot away evenly on both sides. Work diligently and carefully, and don’t forget to dunk the blade in water. With the smaller of the two blades, I repeated the same steps to even out the edge as there were some imperfections I wanted to remove also. As a result, I wound up starting a new edge on the small blade as well.

Once I ground the starter edges, I progressed to the Work Sharp machines to carefully sculpt the new final edges. This is the step where you bring the blades to life. The carbon steel blades make the steps easy as they sharpen up quicker than stainless blades. After the final sharpening of both blades, the result is a vintage pocketknife with a new lease on life sporting new tips and fresh cutting edges.

Final Cut

Sharpening—transforming a cutting tool from dull to razor sharp in a few minutes—is very therapeutic. Toss in creating new blade tips on top of that and the combination is undeniably very satisfying. If you carefully follow these steps, you too can renew any knife blade with a broken tip. And it doesn’t have to be a pocketknife. I’ve ground new tips on tactical folders and karambits, too. Just follow the same steps outlined here. In fact, larger knives are probably easier because there is more to hold onto while working on them. If you have the equipment and the desire to renew and rehab knife blades, give it a try.

Final repaired knife — The end result is a demo knife with two sharp points and two sharp edges.

It is also possible to use a regular belt sander like mine to do all the shaping steps. Be sure to have an assortment of belts of various grits at your disposal. You will want to change to the finer grits to finesse your work. I recommend using only a 1×30 given the size and width of belt. Again, you can find an inexpensive 1×30 at Harbor Freight Tools for around $50. Who knows, you might even find some other uses for it outside of blade repair.

Knife blade repair can be very satisfying. And because you are working with knives as well as power tools, please exercise the utmost caution and pay attention to what you are doing to prevent serious injury.

Have fun and good luck!

Hone Your Knife Sharpening Knowledge:

BEST SHARPENING STONES TO KEEP YOUR EDGE
WHAT’S THE BEST KNIFE SHARPENING ANGLE?
5 MYTHS ABOUT KNIFE SHARPENING
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First Look: Bear OPS Unveils the Double Clutch IV

Buyer's Guides

Elwood Shelton

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March 14, 2024

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First Look: Bear OPS Unveils the Double Clutch IV

Bear OPS introduces the 4 ½” Double Clutch IV. An out-the-front automatic engineered to meet the demands of EDC carry.

Bear OPS has been on a roll in 2024 with a couple of drops early this year. However, its most recent introduction is perhaps its most intriguing, if for no other reason than it’s an automatic—and those are always interesting. Especially when it’s a pocket-friendly OTF, such as the Double Clutch IV, priced right to make it a viable EDC option you won’t be afraid to scratch the paint on.

Don’t get me wrong, the $290 price tag is still steep for many, but measured against the rest of the out-the-front market the knife comes in competitively priced. And Bear OPS hasn’t skimped in making a fairly rough-and-tumble option. Particularly opting for good ol’ D2 steel for the Double Clutch IV’s 2.5-inch blade and aircraft-grade aluminum for the handle. For those not in the know, D2 is a long-used knife material—a high-carbon tool steel, with both good wear resistance and toughness, as well as respectable corrosion resistance. Arguably there are new options with better qualities, but D2 still holds its place.

As to the blade profile, Bear OPS offers two options, tanto and drop point. In both cases, the blades are straight-edged but have some nice points that accentuate each design. The drop point boasts a wide belly, giving it plenty of slicing surface. While the tanto has a fairly sharp, but abbreviated tip, which should make it a puncturing pro.

The Double Clutch IV’s action has a crisp deployment, facilitated by an understated—yet functional—thumb slide. It’s just about the right size for the small knife, not protruding so much as to cause an errant fire, but prominent enough that you won’t fumble to get the knife into action.

The knife boasts aluminum milled handles that not only enhance its toughness but also contribute to its ergonomic design. With grip ridges for added traction, these handles provide a comfortable and secure grip in any situation, ensuring optimal control even when wearing gloves.

Despite its robust construction, the Double Clutch IV remains remarkably concealable, seamlessly integrating into your everyday carry apparel. Whether tucked away in a pocket, duty belt, or plate carrier, this knife remains discreet yet readily accessible, ready to defend and protect at a moment’s notice. And at a scant 3.3 ounces, it won’t bog you down.

Oh yeah, it also comes outfitted with a pocket clip for tip-down carry and a lanyard hole, a slick feature that might help get the knife into the fray.

Double Clutch IV Specs
Blade Styles: Tanto, Drop Point
Blade Material: D2 Tool Steel
Handle Material: Aircraft Aluminum w/grip ridges
Rockwell: 59-61
Closed Length: 4 1/2″
Edge: 2-1/2″
Weight: 3.3 oz.
Extras: Automatic, Pocket Clip provides for Tip-Down Carry, Lanyard Hole
MSRP: $290

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