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Best Hatchets And Axes For Survival And Camping

Buyer's Guides

BLADE Staff

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August 16, 2023

Best Hatchets And Axes For Survival And Camping

A reliable camping hatchet or axe can be the difference between mere survival and a truly memorable camping experience

Do any sort of camping and you’re more than aware there truly are the right tools for the job. While implements such as a bushcraft knife are an absolute must to get you out of a backwoods switch, they are, at best, only adequate for certain tasks. Chief among these is processing any amount of wood.

This, when your kit requirements allow, is where the good old camp hatchet or axe comes into play. Antiquated for large tree-felling projects nowadays, these lightweight and heavy-duty tools bring your woodcraft abilities to a new level. From facilitating more elaborate shelter-building attempts and arming you with the ability to collect a magnitude more firewood, hatches and small axes prove a godsend in the harshest environments.

Let’s hack away at what goes into the best of these sometimes overlooked camping and survival tools and what presently are some of the top choices in the wilderness tools.

Camp Axes vs Hatchets

While there is no bright line from when you crossover from an axe to a hatchet, there is a generally safe rule of thumb. Axes sport enough handle to facilitate a two-handed grip, while hatchets are generally wielded with one hand—hence their moniker “hand axe”. Most times too, axes boast a slightly larger and heavier head with a slighter taper. Hatchets, you’ll find, have a much more pronounced taper to their heads in addition to some having other functions incorporated—such as a hammer.

Given this, axes provide more striking power, thus a bit more versatility since they’re capable of heavier work than hatchets, in addition to all the tasks the smaller tool is proficient at. Bushcraters have understood this for some time, with some favoring relatively small axes that make shelter building and wood splitting much less labor intensive. There is a tradeoff in going the axe route, however—no matter what, the great majority of axe options will weigh more than a hatchet.

A hatchet, aside from convenience, has some underlying benefits. Splitting wood in camp is much easier and safer with the hand axe given it’s more controllable and can function in smaller spaces. Many—as mentioned—are tailored to the tasks of camping with multiple functions engineered into them—a tent stake puller is always nice. And even in the realm of bushcrafting, the hatchet proves nimbler than the axe on many tasks—such as using it to whittle wood.

Which is Right For The Wilderness?

Overall, the winner of axe vs hatchet debate when it comes to the outdoors is only something you can determine by analyzing exactly what your needs are when out in the wild.

If your outdoor plans require a deep push into the backcountry, where woodfires are a secondary source of heating and cooking, a hatchet seems more logical. The same goes for excursions where you plan to collect fuel wood immediately around your campsite, as opposed to cutting down a tree.

Conversely, if wood fires are your main source of heat and cooking, even in deeper parts of the forest, and you’re on extended trips an axe might prove more useful. Furthermore, if you are going straight up Grizzly Adams and virtually living off the land, building your own shelters, well an axe provides an advantage. Hunters too, in blind building from fallen trees, could also benefit from the extra leverage allotted by an axe.

Again, these are not hard and fast rules, simply examples of where a hatchet might trump an axe and vice versa. Using each as well as understanding your needs and capabilities in the wilderness will likely point you to making the right choice.

Best Hatchets And Camp Axes

ESEE Gibson Axe

The hatchet is a James Gibson design which is now offered by ESEE. A knifemaker, flintknapper, and bushcraft instructor, James originally designed the Gibson Axe for himself, something to throw into a backpack as he tramped the hills and hollers of East Tennessee. As he tweaked his design, eventually cutting out a prototype made from thin plywood, he focused on its balance and “rocker.”

“An axe with perfect rocker is one of the best handling axes you can handle,” James said. “And I got the rocker perfect on this axe.”

And just what is rocker?

Gibson explains it’s when you take the hatchet and stand it up edge down on a straight surface. As he puts it, the bit’s edge should meet the surface in the “middle of the blade, the cutting edge and its dead center, and the handle [butt] should touch at the same time.”

When he showed a couple of prototypes of the axe to the folks at ESEE at a BLADE Show one year, they decided to add it to their lineup. At the time, ESEE was hearing from its customers that they wanted the company to offer an axe—and Gibson’s hatchet fit the bill.

James designed the handle to have finger grooves and a knob to secure the hand while swinging it. After the axe was made, he learned a hidden feature of his design: it has enough finesse to carve smaller objects. He says he sharpens pencils with it and once cleaned a trout with it. The result “is capable of doing some real work as well. It also has exceptional balance and you can choke up on it and use it like a knife for many applications,” explains Shane Adams, ESEE’s marketing director.

Of course, it being ESEE, the hatchet comes in the company’s oft-used blade material: 1095 carbon steel. “It’s us,” Adams said. “We know 1095 well.” It’s a steel that handles all the variables of the outdoors. “You can sharpen it with a rock if need be,” the marketing director advises. “Stones or systems, it doesn’t matter. I always like to finish on a loaded leather strop when possible.”

Gibson Axe Specs
Company: ESEE
Cutting Edge: 4.5″
Head Material: 1095 carbon steel
Head At Its Thickest: .25″
Handle: Micarta
Weight: 1.3 lbs.
Overall Length: 10.5″
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $269

Knives Of Alaska Hunter’s Hatchet

“Hatchets are still one of the most useful tools a real outdoorsman can have in the fi eld,” says Charles Allen of Knives of Alaska, “and they can save your life by enabling you to quickly make a warming fire or emergency shelter.” The KOA Hunter’s Hatchet is designed to fill that bill in all regards. — “Hatchets are still one of the most useful tools a real outdoorsman can have in the fi eld,” says Charles Allen of Knives of Alaska, “and they can save your life by enabling you to quickly make a warming fire or emergency shelter.” The KOA Hunter’s Hatchet is designed to fi ll that bill in all regards.

Charles Allen, president and owner of Knives of Alaska (KOA), knows the importance of being prepared. The Alaskan master big-game guide who has flown in the Alaskan skies professionally for almost three decades always keeps a hatchet stashed in his bush plane—and for good reason.

“When you look back at the old photos of the early trappers and hunters, you will see three things: a rifle, a knife, and a hatchet or tomahawk on their belts,” he said. “Hatchets are still one of the most useful tools a real outdoorsman can have in the field, and they can save your life by enabling you to quickly make a warming fire or emergency shelter.” When consumers demanded a multi-purpose hatchet, Allen studied the designs carried by the folks who make preparedness their motto: the Boy Scouts. “I looked at the historic Boy Scout’s hatchet I grew up with and know that it is a proven design that is hard to improve on,” he says.

But improve on the Boy Scout model he did with the KOA Hunter’s Hatchet. The hickory handle remains tough yet easy on the hands. Heat-treated properly, the S7 tool steel is designed to absorb the shocks of hard blows. With a Rockwell hardness of 50-54 HRC, the edge of the Hunter’s Hatchet is intended to dent if it collides with something hard, Allen says, such as bone while butchering game. And the head can be returned to a razor-sharp bite with Allen’s recommended sharpening tool: a flat, fine-toothed file.

When designing the Hunter’s Hatchet, Allen was sure to include a wide-enough poll so that users could pound stakes, nails and the like with it, too.

Hunter’s Hatchet Specs
Company: Knives of Alaska
Cutting Edge: 4.25″
Head Material: S7 tool steel
Handle: American red hickory
Weight: 1 lbs.
Overall Length: 11″
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $169

Outdoor Edge Wooddevil

David Bloch, president and founder of Outdoor Edge, wanted a hatchet that could out-cut its class: Something small enough to carry easily but with enough heft to take down a medium-sized tree.

“I looked at and tested a number of compact hatchets on the market and came to the conclusion that most full-size hatchets were too large and heavy to take on outings where weight and volume were limiting factors,” Bloch said. “I also found that most every compact hatchet I tested, while cute in appearance, was not an effective chopping tool.”

During outdoor treks when the quality of your tools will make or break the
trip, the Outdoor Edge WoodDevil may be a guardian angel, made possible by the marriage of a combination of the right balance, a good handle and a wide cutting head.

“The WoodDevil stands up to its name,” David said. “With a 4-inch cutting surface, it has the ability to cut through large diameter material with the respect of its compact size.” Plus, its compact size makes it unobtrusive in the camping bin or pickup truck until needed for whatever task—from hammering tent stakes to “slicing tinder shavings,” he adds.

The 3Cr13 stainless steel in a Rockwell hardness of 52-54 HRC is malleable and resharpens easily, and the black oxide finish allows it to better resist corrosion. The TPR rubber handle provides a non-slip grip that soaks up the shock and vibration during use. It’s packaged in a nylon sheath retained with a fabric fastener that can hang from a belt.

Wooddevil Specs
Company: Outdoor Edge
Cutting Edge: 4″
Head Steel: 3Cr13 stainless
Handle: Red ABS plastic with black rubberized TPR
Weight: 1.2 lbs.
Overall Length: 10″
Sheath: Nylon
MSRP: $40

APOC Double Mukk

As Blake Pogue, product manager of CAS Iberia, tells it, the creation of the Double Mukk started with some pencil, plenty of erasing, and an idea.

“We wanted to bring a full-tang hatchet to market with some unique features at a good price point,” he said. Double-bit axes don’t seem as common as they used to be, but the Double Mukk’s design is grounded in some very real field experience. In fact, it is a design championed by George Sears, the famed outdoor writer with the nom de plume of Nessmuk.

“George Sears was an avid outdoorsman, canoe enthusiast, writer, and conservationist in the late 1800s,” Blake said. “He famously employed a trio of tools for woodcraft —a small folding knife, a thin-bladed belt knife and a short, double-bit hatchet.”

Pogue said after some field testing of their own, the makers learned they didn’t need to tweak much from Nessmuk’s favorite design. APOC Survival Tools makes the hatchet at a forge in Dalian, China, and it’s distributed by CAS Iberia. The blade is 9260 carbon steel, the same material used for swords, among others.

The double edge grants the hatchet additional versatility, as one side is flat ground for delicate carving tasks. The other side is convex ground to better slam through tough cutting jobs. Pogue recommends sharpening a hatchet with a hockey-puck-style sharpener designed for axes because it can easily follow the tool’s convex edges.

“I wanted one tool that could readily build a shelter, prep a fire for a meal, and do the intricate work required to make traps like the figure four,” he said. “If we can accomplish those three requirements, there isn’t much else you’d need but a small knife for food prep, and even then the carving side of the Double Mukk is no slouch!”

Double Mukk Specs
Company: APOC Survival Tools
Cutting Edge: 2.75″
Head Material: 9260 carbon steel
Head At Its Thickest: .236″
Handle: G-10
Weight: 1.5 lbs.
Overall Length: 11.75″
Sheath: MOLLE compatible
MSRP: $99

Halfbreed Blades CRA-01

The Halfbreed is a very heavy-duty piece. It is thick and hefty, and capable of taking a serious beating and dishing one out. This variant is finished in a dark earth color and comes with a substantial sheath that allows for secure carry adaptable to a variety of belts and packs.

Notable is how heavy the little hatchet is. It feels very nice in the hand and allows for either a low or high grip depending on the task. The grip is round in profile and consists of somewhat smooth scales. The edge out of the box was shaving sharp and easily removed hair from the arm.

The high, comfortable grip allowed for great control when scraping tinder. It also was a beast breaking bricks to make a windbreak for small fires. That said, it is not great for splitting tasks and, due to the thickness of the edge, does not bite deep for chopping. The grip is very comfy for general chores, though because the hatchet has equal weight dispersion along its length, it can fatigue your hand in use. It can be swung quite hard but there is a great deal of wasted energy in each strike because the head doesn’t carry the bulk of the forward momentum.

The dark earth finish was also the fastest to come off in heavy use. This is to be expected; however, be aware that if used heavily, the hatchet head likely will show wear far more than the other review subjects.

In terms of fire-starting ability, the CRA-01 proved mediocre as a striking tool, though it was very easy to control the direction of the sparks. Overall, it is fine for small fire-starting work and if it was what I had, I could easily make it work.

HALFBREED BLADES CRA-01 SPECS:
Style: Tomahawk
Head Style: Curved edge w/hammer poll
Blade Material: K110 D2 tool steel
Head Thickness: .31”
Blade Finish: Dark earth (available in Ranger green and black)
Handle Material: G-10
Weight: 1.7 lbs.
Sheath: Kydex w/safety strap, belt and PALS/MOLLE mounting options
Overall Length: 9.52”
MSRP: $400+

Winkler Knives Highland Hatchet

The Winkler has a full tang with scales attached. Worrisome for fear of the handle cracking in hard testing but it held up nicely. The finish is matte and held up well. It has a durable sheath that is simple and intuitive to use.

Despite the edge angles, it bit right into most wood, easily de-limbed trees and handled very light splitting. It stood no chance of taking a large log apart, though anything under 3 inches in diameter was taken to task.

For hammering and strength testing the Winkler held up extremely well. It broke bricks in a single strike and took very little finish damage in the process. Tent stakes were easy to drive in and were barely worth a mention, as a nice part of this little hatchet is it handles just like a 4-ounce tack hammer.

The Highland is a reliable fire maker, generating a showers of sparks and getting a flame going given equal materials. The edge showed no handicap in making kindling.

SPECS: WINKLER KNIVES HIGHLAND HATCHET
Style: Camp hatchet
Designer: Daniel Winkler
Head Profile: Hammer poll
Blade Material: 80CrV2 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Black oxide
Head Thickness: .336”
Handle Material: Maple (laminate and walnut available)
Weight: 20 ozs.
Overall Length: 10 7/8”
Sheath: Lined Kydex
MSRP: $550

Condor Tool & Knife Mountain Pass AXE

The Condor Tool & Knife Mountain Pass might be classified as a jungle hatchet. It has a low beard and narrow thickness that is arguably much better at cutting wet wood, vines and bamboo in fast, repeated swings. For all intents and purposes, it is a foliage tool. As such it isn’t something for heavy splitting and camp chores. It ships with a very nice sheath of brown leather.

Swinging the Mountain Pass allowed for fast, accurate strikes. It bit in deep with each blow and was easy to withdraw. The edge was perfect for a camp axe when it arrived—not too sharp, not too obtuse. It handled limbs like a pro but was not up to heavy splitting. It sank in but lacked the mass to deliver sufficient splitting energy on the strikes.

A downside to hitting hard wood and other materials is Condor’s profile of the grip. It is visually appealing and very functional but narrow in cross section and wide front-to-back, thus making the impact of each hit apparent in a smaller area of the hand. If the grip was even 1/16 inch wider on each side it would have been an easy favorite in this test.

As far as hard camp work it broke brick easily with one hit, took little damage and easily drove tent stakes. It is not intended for either of these roles, but it did just fine considering it lacks a hammer poll.

The Mountain Pass was not particularly good at splitting fine kindling, but it did well and was easy to strike on, if not a bit large. Putting it in this role immediately made me realize it was really not meant for the work; it’s far better for clearing brush and gathering medium branches to process with a smaller tool.

SPECS: CONDOR TOOL & KNIFE MOUNTAIN PASS AXE
Style: Camp axe
Designer: Jason Breeden
Blade Material: 1075 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Condor Classic
Head Profile: Curved edge
Head Thickness: 3/16”
Handle Material: Micarta®
Weight: 1.83 lbs.
Overall Length: 14”
Sheath: Brown leather
MSRP: $176

TOPS Knives Ucon Hawk

The Ucon Hawk from TOPS Knives is probably the most visually striking hatchet in the evaluation, as well as the sharpest. It’s large with a wide cutting edge and deep belly. It has a long, very pointy and sharp beard and a substantial grip. It’s questionable the edge needs to be as sharp as it is; a dull knife is clearly a danger but an extremely sharp, full-size hatchet can be a hazard.

The Ucon’s size makes it adept for general camp tasks. However, when it came to splitting, the deep belly and sharp tips made pulling it out of a stubborn log relatively dangerous as the blade rarely penetrated all the way, thus leaving the tips exposed. If you were to put your foot on the log to apply pressure to withdraw the head, a possibility exists that you could injure your foot in the process.

That said, performance was fantastic as a camp tool and it could simply lop off branches in a single swing. The finish held up nicely and the edge stayed sharp even after hard use. It should be noted that only the TOPS and the Winkler had edges unaffected by use. The Ucon ships with a two-part sheath—one part goes over the blade and the other is a belt loop the hatchet can slip through.

For heavy-duty tasks it did well, easily passing through limbs. Splitting was possible, though the hatchet was a bit thin and grip-heavy to dive deep enough to separate a full-size piece of firewood. Breaking brick with the hammer poll was easy; it left virtually no damage to the tool. Driving tent stakes also was easy.

Making fire was a challenge in that you had to be extremely aware of where the tips of the edge were at all times. If you get in the mode where you’re striking rapidly, say if you’re cold and frustrated, you need to calm down and take your time (as you should always do when using any sharp edge). The Ucon produced the finest kindling of the bunch by scraping with its sharp edge. The hatchet needs to lose the super-pointy beards—otherwise it is a great performer.

SPECS: TOPS KNIVES UCON HAWK
Style: Camp axe
Designer: Leo Espinoza
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Tumble
Head Profile: Curved blade, hammer poll
Head Thickness: .25”
Handle Material: Orange and Black SureTouch G-10
Weight: 1.94 lbs.
Overall Length: 15”
Sheath: Black leather
MSRP: $330

A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe

AG Russel Safety Axe — The fold-out blade shield of the Russell Pocket Safety Axe is pure wizardry, especially considering the design is well over 100 years old. You won’t be caught saying “Where did I put the sheath?” with this one.

The A.G. Russell Pocket Safety Axe is a Marble’s design from circa the early 20th century. Marble took a small hatchet, 10.6 inches overall, and designed a fold-out metal shield in the handle to cover the bit in lieu of a sheath. Simply ingenious. The A.G. Russell version has a 4.5-inch 1070 spring steel head with a 2.4- inch cutting edge, and a typical old-school hammering base at the rear. The head has a distinctive three-slot mounting system Marble deemed superior to the standard oval style. The 8.8 inch handle is hickory and the whole kit and caboodle weighs 1 pound. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $79.95.

With much of its overall weight in the head, this is a very top-heavy hatchet—which can work to its advantage. In the bite test on the privet log, the Pocket Safety Axe finished first simply because the business end has a lot more weight (see the side-by-side comparison image on head thicknesses). Consequently, it chopped each test material well.

The fold-out bit shield has pluses and minuses. On the upside, it’s very convenient and there’s no sheath to keep up with. On the other hand, you have to pack it since there’s no belt-sheath option. Also, you’ll want to wear gloves for extended use, as the hinge mechanism in the handle can dig into the inner fingers. All in all, though, the Pocket Safety Axe is a stellar performer.

SPEC CHECK: A.G. RUSSELL POCKET SAFETY AXE
Cutting Edge: 2.4”
Blade Material: 1070 spring steel
Head Width: 4.5”
Head Thickness: .7” at the thickest
Blade Coating: None
Handle Material: Hickory
Special Features: Metal blade cover in handle
Carry: Pocket or pack
Weight: 1 lbs.
Overall Length: 10.6”
MSRP: $80

Boker Plus Escape Hawk

Designed by Australian knifemaker/ designer Peter Fegan, the Boker Plus Escape Hawk is tactical in design. Hawks are primarily used for breaching and combat but can full other chores as well. Only 9 inches overall, the Escape Hawk has a 4.75-inch head of quarter inch-thick SK5 tool steel and a 2.56- inch cutting edge. The head has enough beard to be used for carving, and the curved 7-inch handle is adorned with nicely sculpted, diagonally grooved FRN ( berglass-reinforced nylon) scales. The butt can be used for hammering. The steel is protected throughout with a powder coat. A dual-strap Kydex sheath covers the head. MSRP: $189.95.

Due to its small size, you won’t be doing much breaching with the Boker Escape Hawk, but the pint-sized hack proved its worth. The SK5 steel had plenty of hack, chopping rope in nice, clean cuts, and knocking out chunks of seasoned cedar for tinder. Though the bearded bit can be used for carving, the inward slant of the handle mounting to the head impedes its effectiveness for the purpose a tad. The handle has full-length scales—a bonus for freedom of grip—and the diagonal grooves afforded it the best purchase of the bunch. The Boker Escape Hawk is a hawk that thinks it’s a hatchet.

Boker Plus Escape Hawk Specs
Cutting Edge: 2.56”
Blade Material: SK5 tool steel
Head Width: 4.75”
Head Thickness: .25”
Blade Finish: Powder coating
Handle Material: FRN
Special Features: Full-length sculpted scales
Carry: Kydex sheath
Weight: .82 lbs.
Overall Length: 9”
MSRP: $190

Camillus Western Blackriver Long Hatchet

At 11.5 inches, the Western Blackriver Long Hatchet from Camillus is, indeed, the longest of the test hack-its. It sports a 4.5-inch-wide head with a 2.5-inch chopping edge. On the back side of the head is a gimped flat edge for hammering and a sharpened diagonal slot for cutting cord. The 9.5-inch handle has 5.25-inch black checkered rubber scales, and there is a shaving slot midway between the handle and the head. A ballistic nylon sheath with a firesteel pouch—with firesteel—is included. MSRP: $31.98.

The Blackriver has the lightest head of the test group so it didn’t win the chopping wars, but its length and handle design give it a leg up on the others in some functions. The thin head is ideal for batonning, enhanced by the 4 inches of exposed steel below the bit, which can be used as a striking surface. The grip is very comfortable, the rubber scales aiding in impact absorption. The Blackriver will handle many chores around the camp, and the bonus firesteel and pouch on the sheath add value. It’s also by far the most affordable of the group.

Camillus/Wester Blackriver Long Hatchet Specs
Cutting Edge: 2.5”
Blade Steel: 420 stainless
Head Width: 4.5”
Head Thickness: .2”
Blade Coating: Titanium bonded
Handle Material: Rubber
Special Features: Firesteel included
Carry: Ballistic nylon belt sheath
Weight: 1 lbs.
Overall Length: 11.5”
MSRP: $32

Winkler Hunter Axe LT

At only 9 inches long, the Winkler Hunter Axe LT is a small hack-it, but packs a full 19 ounces of weight—and that’s with a skeletonized handle tang. The Hunter Axe LT has a 3.5-inch-wide, bearded 80CrV2 carbon steel head with 2 inches of cutting edge, and there’s a hammering base out back. The steel thickness is a healthy .25 inch and is coated head to toe in Caswell black oxide. The scales are full-length, highly attractive curly maple. A padded Kydex sheath with nylon belt loops covers the head, and employs a shock-cord retention system for a quick draw. MSRP: $450.

The Hunter Axe LT may be short but at 19 ounces is the heaviest of the test hack-its—a full 2 ounces more than its nearest rival. The LT almost won the bite contest but didn’t due in part to its weight being more equally distributed than the top-heavy Russell Pocket Safety Axe. The 80CrV2 steel chops extremely well and the Caswell finish is very tough. Though not a carving axe per se, the LT was our best candidate for the chore and would have performed even better with a lower grind angle on the lead edge. The price is high but the Winkler is as close to a custom as you’ll get—plus, the sheath is a marvel in itself.

WINKLER HUNTER AXE LT Specs
Cutting Edge: 2”
Blade Material: 80CrV2 carbon steel
Head Width: 3.5”
Head Thickness: .28”
Blade Coating: Caswell black oxide
Handle Material: Curly maple
Special Features: Skeletonized handle
Carry: Kydex belt sheath w/tension release
Weight: 1.9 lbs.
Overall Length: 9”
MSRP: $450

Gerber Freescale Axe

Gerber has had a successful series of axes and hatchets made in Finland that feature one-piece, hollow, molded handles for lightweight, optimum strength. An example is the 23.5-inch model in its Freescale series. The forged steel head is mated permanently to a lightweight composite handle, so there is little worry the handle will come loose during use. The oblong profile handle is hollow, which shifts the balance of the axe to being head-heavy. It is very forward weighted and that is a good thing. Use gravity to your advantage as you employ the axe, allowing it to fall naturally as you guide it. A tactile gripping surface in a contrasting green graces the handle. The handle flares at the butt, allowing your bottom hand to hook into it, trapping the handle in your hand so it doesn’t go flying. The handle style reportedly is virtually indestructible during heavy use.

The forged head exhibits a nice, steep “V” profile to help bite hard and deep into wood. A primary edge bevel thins the edge some and makes resharpening easier. A black PTFE coating provides additional corrosion resistance as well as a nonstick surface. A poll is designed as a hammer.

The Freescape is among the least expensive of the review axes, though don’t discount its performance based solely on price. Truth is, this axe is devastatingly effective. With each swing you can feel the forward-weighted balance power the Freescape through wood. The thickness and shape of the handle are just right, allowing a secure grip with both hands. Gerber includes a plastic caddy that seals the cutting edge and protects you and your belongings from being cut. The caddy has a large handle to carry the axe safely, as well for hanging on a pegboard in your garage or utility shed. For how it performs versus what you pay, it is an excellent value. If you’re a frequent axe user or just an occasional one, the Freescape will serve you very well.

Gerber Freescape Axe Specs
Cutting Edge: 3.5″
Head Material: Stainless Steel
Head At Its Thickest: N/A
Handle: GFN
Weight: 3.6 lbs.
Overall Length: 23.5″
Sheath: Plastic, carry handle
MSRP: $70

Winkler KnivesRnD Compact Axe

The tang sports a distal taper toward the handle butt of the Winkler RnD Compact to improve balance and shift weight distribution toward the head. Note the humpback in the handle.

A spike model, the RnD Compact Axe is the smallest in the Winkler Knives (WK) axe line, though that doesn’t mean it’s the least capable. The hatchet-like head is only 5.5 inches long. The 80CrV2 carbon steel head is ⅜ inch wide. The tang sports a distal taper toward the handle butt to improve balance and shift weight distribution toward the head. The spike is commonly found on tomahawks and does everything from prying to puncturing. WK also offers a front spike option integrated into the head’s main cutting edge. A black oxide finish helps resist corrosion.

The 80CrV2 offers extreme toughness and edge retention. It withstands an impressive amount of abuse yet remains easy to resharpen, even in the field. Daniel Winkler is a fan of 80CrV2 and uses it a lot for both his knives and axes.

The handle features two prominent grip positions. One is the traditional axe grip held close to the butt. A series of subtle finger grooves seats your fingers, and the butt has a bird’s-beak design that hooks the handle into your hand to prevent it from sliding from your grip. A secondary close-quarters grip is below the axe head at the handle’s humpbacked portion. This facilitates choking up for control in carving, whittling and using the cutting edge like a knife. The RnD feels very balanced and agile in the latter grip, one the other review axes don’t offer. The Winkler would be great at processing kindling and bushcraft chores that require more control with close-in cutting or whittling. Due to its length and weight, it would not be a primary use axe but maybe a complement to a larger model that does heavy splitting or felling chores.

A secondary close-quarters grip is just below the head of the RnD Compact at the handle’s humpbacked portion. This facilitates choking up to provide control for carving, whittling and using the cutting edge like a knife.

The walnut handle looks luxurious but pay heed to where you lay it down in the woods. The walnut’s color blends in well with leaf ground cover and you might lose it easily. Thread a loop of brightly colored pink, red or yellow paracord through the lanyard hole to make the handle stand out. The RnD comes in three handle materials: black Micarta®, maple and walnut.

A molded form-fitting sheath of Boltaron encloses the head. A thick shock-cord-quick-release-retention device secures the sheath in place, yet releases easily and quickly. An interior felt lining facilitates the easy slipping on/off of the sheath, as well as muffling the sound. Two nylon webbing belt loops enable the RnD to ride comfortably at your side. MSRP is $815, the most expensive of the test group. WK is very well known for manufacturing excellence and attention to detail, and the RnD Compact is no exception. For a bigger axe in the same design, check out the full-size model.

Winkler KnivesRnD Compact Axe Specs
Cutting Edge: 2.25″
Head Material: 80CrV2 carbon steel
Head At Its Thickest: 3/8″
Handle: Walnut
Weight: 1.3 lbs.
Overall Length: 11″
Sheath: Boltaron
MSRP: $815

TOPS Knives High Impact

The High Impact’s curved cutting surface allows it to be devastatingly effective as a chopper, including sectioning the trunk of a sapling for easier handling.

The TOPS Knives High Impact is a full-sized hatchet/small axe hybrid that packs a punch. At 20 inches overall and around 3.5 pounds, it is a formidable chopping tool that can be used with two hands as a traditional axe or one handed a la a hatchet.

Starting with a backbone of .38-inch-thick 1075 carbon steel, the High Impact’s main cutting edge is a little over 5 inches—plenty of cutting surface for large and small chopping jobs alike. The Black Traction Coating creates a layer of protection against corrosion and wear. The ergonomic handle is tan Micarta®, with a diagonal machined groove pattern for hand traction. Five pairs of large hex head screws fasten the Micarta scales, and there are two large brass-lined lanyard holes. The handle has a distinctive bulge that helps seat your grip, especially for one-hand use. The handle flares at the butt, creating a comfortable seat for your bottom hand when using two hands.

The first thing you notice is the High Impact’s weight. It’s impressive but will take some getting used to. Once acclimated with the heft, you will discover it is also an advantage for getting momentum in your swing. And when it hits, it lives up to its name. The High Impact takes out chunks of wood with each blow. TOPS has the heat treat on the carbon steel dialed in perfectly. The 1075 retains an edge really well but sharpens easily and quickly.

The TOPS Knives High Impact is a beast. It has heft and momentum to bite deep and hard with each swing. The ergonomic handle makes it possible to use the axe with one or both hands.

I tried both grip styles. With one hand, this is where the weight takes some getting used to. Due to the axe’s weight, one-handed use might be limited to short spells. Conversely, using two hands is where the power of this beast is unleashed. You can put power behind the swing and each blow is devastating. You can feel the axe head bite in with each blow. It’s a sure bite as well. The performance with one or both hands is equally impressive. Due to its weight, it’s a great candidate to store in your truck or ATV.

A nicely made leather holster fastens over the head, sealing the edge. Two button-snap straps secure it, though only the one at the end needs to be undone to slide the sheath off. Note the absence of a belt loop attachment to carry the axe. It’s just too heavy. Despite the weight being a factor, the High Impact packs a serious punch and is the heavyweight champ of the test bunch. MSRP: $360. TOPS makes the axe in its factory in Idaho Falls, Idaho.

TOPS Knives High Impact Specs
Cutting Edge: 5.75″
Head Material: 1075 RC 56-58
Head At Its Thickest: .38″
Handle: Tan Canvas Micarta
Weight: 3.7 lbs.
Overall Length: 20″
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $420

Wolf Valley Forge Camp Axe

The Wolf Valley Forge axe ate bundle after bundle of firewood like there was nothing to it.

The Wolf Valley Forge Camp Axe is in a class of its own. It came not with just a functional sling and cover, but also a small whetstone and a jar of wax by Axe Wax to help preserve it. Carrying the Camp Axe is comfortable and allows for a free hand while trekking. The handle is perfectly shaped and came with a leather strike guard.

Ike Bullington is the maker and the quality is immediately noticeable the second you unpack it. It is all properly shaped, textured and balanced for real work and has a very pleasing appearance. However, it is not a wall-hanger. The head is of a traditional profile and designed for a lifetime of work.

The edge arrived razor sharp, easily sharper than most knives. Not only that, but the edge is extremely durable and completely dispels the notion that you need a wedge-shaped splitter.

A sharp axe truly cuts the work in half and this one almost effortlessly passed through wood regardless of grain angle. In taking down bigger trunks it drove in the deepest and was the easiest to free. Chips flew with each chop and it made very short work of even the toughest test materials.

In addition to cutting wood, it was tested driving tent stakes and making kindling, which it did easily. As a camp axe it is very nice in the batoning role, and yes, you can baton an axe the same as you would a knife—so long as you grip it high up to the head and perform the task in a safe standing position as to not deflect the blade into your knee.

Wolf Valley Forge Camp Axe Specs
Cutting Edge: 4″
Head Material: 4142
Head At Its Thickest: N/A
Handle: Hickory
Weight: 2.5 lbs.
Overall Length: 23.62″
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $375

Fox Sekira

Considering what you get, the Fox Sekira is a great axe and relatively inexpensive. It handles like a traditional axe in the swing but has a crescent-profile edge that is shaped much the same as a carpentry axe, though with a longer handle. The head is wide at the cheeks and quite narrow in the blade. It splits very nicely though isn’t particularly deep-biting on each swing.

The head, while substantial, isn’t overly massive and there is a large concentration of weight in the handle. The weight is distributed across the axe, which could lend to some of the increased effort in getting it to send splinters flying.

As far as general performance, the Sekira is about as good as a traditionally constructed axe gets, and lacks nothing in utility. It stayed sharp and experienced no edge chipping, even after quite a bit of heavy use. The only noticeable downside is that the handle, while comfortable and very nicely finished, is somewhat on the large side and rounded from front-to-back.

When hands get wet or cold the axe has the tendency to want to rotate, which can be dangerous if you’re not holding on tight. Other than that minor issue, the Sekira is a fantastic axe that should offer years of hard-use service.

Fox Sekira
Cutting Edge: 4.33″
Head Material: Carbon Steel C45
Head At Its Thickest: N/A
Handle: Hickory
Weight: 3.35 lbs.
Overall Length: 23.62″
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $150

Editor’s note: Dexter Ewing, Josh Wayner and Daniel Jackson contributed to this post.

More Axes, Hatchets And Tomahawks:

Bearded Axe: Best Bashers From Here To Valhalla
Best Tomahawks: Our Top Hawks For Backwoods To Battlefields
Wicked Breacher: Ben Seward’s SWAT Axe
Awesome Axes for Chopping Wood Like a True Lumberjack

Micarta: A Do-Everything Handle Material

Josh Wayner

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December 7, 2022

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Micarta Is One Of Many Materials Used For Blade Handles. Used For More Than A Century, Micarta Continues To Be Incredibly Popular.

Micarta is not a new material, in fact, it has been used for over 100 years. Unlike naturally-occurring materials, Micarta offers properties other materials don’t. We’re going take a look at what Micarta is and what makes it probably the best material available for making knife handles today.

What Is Micarta?

Micarta is the name of a commercially-owned product, and isn’t just a generic material. Micarta is a durable type of composite made of a base material suspended in epoxy resin. Norplex Inc. owns the trademark on the term.

The material is compressed under heat and is classified as a thermoset product. The main name associated with the invention of Micarta is George Westinghouse. During his life, Westinghouse never stopped creating new things, and the first developments of what we know now as Micarta occurred somewhere between 1900 and 1910.

Because of the way that Micarta is made, it has extensive applications for insulation in electrical systems. It is unknown when this material became a popular knife handle option, but it is safe to say it’s never been more popular than today. Like many materials of the era, such as Bakelite and Celluloid, Micarta found its way into craft use.

How Is Micarta Made?

It’s hard to pin down Micarta. In the old days, fabric and paper were used as the base material, but today we have a wide variety of other types that exist, including carbon fiber and glass. Knife handles are actually a fairly narrow category of end-use for Micarta.

The process by which Micarta is made is relatively simple. Materials are soaked in whatever type of thermoset is going to be used, and, once impregnated by the resin, it is subjected to intense heat and pressure which causes a sheet to be formed. Decades ago, Micarta was also made in large blocks.

These large blocks are a favorite for revolver grips and other large, three-dimensional forms. There are people that shop garage sales and estate auctions looking for fixtures or items made using these older types of Micarta. The most prized is a type of paper Micarta that is about the closest thing to elephant ivory in terms of texture and color that grip makers can get.

Who Uses Micarta?

Mini knife makers that work with the material end up ordering large quantities to their specifications. Smaller companies tend to work with what is available through existing supply chains, which is a large reason why you end up seeing very similar colors across the board.

It is possible to get Micarta in custom colors and textures, though you may have to spend thousands to get it. If you find that you are looking to put a nice handle on a knife, it is a good idea to call around and see if any companies have scrap that they are willing to sell.

Micarta Vs. G-10

True Micarta is not the same thing as G-10 or other types of thermoset laminates. Many people tend to use the terms interchangeably, but in a strict manner of speaking, true Micarta will be made using paper, burlap, canvas, or linen set in resin. G-10 is different in that uses glass cloth, a type of material made from carbon fiber filaments.

Micarta is usually heavier than G-10 and carbon fiber laminates, but, in terms of knife handles, the difference is negligible and is not too far apart from the weight of standard hardwoods. Bakelite, while common on a tremendous number of products and weapons, isn’t the same type of material as Micarta even though it occupied many of the same roles.

Comparing Micarta To Other Handle Materials

As Micarta has become more popular, more companies have offered it as an option, but sometimes incorrectly. A true Micarta material is not quite as durable as G-10, but it is going to hold up better than wood or leather. G-10 is an essentially absorption-proof material. Most handle materials out there, Micarta included, will absorb a degree of water, sweat, or blood.

Though it is unlikely to permanently stay in the material, it is recommended you keep Micarta clean. Usually, hot soap and water does the trick, and, while you can get oil on it, expect it to stain a bit. This has to do with the fact that the materials in Micarta are either paper or fabric, and many of these materials are exposed, though fully impregnated by resin.

Wood handles are subject to small problems, and if installed incorrectly, they can split or crack quite easily. Wooden handles are not especially great for heavy outdoor tasks, such as chopping or batoning. Wood also has the problem of absorbing ambient moisture. In especially humid environments, handles can swell and crack on the pins. Micarta has no grain in the way that wood does, although it is typically applied to knives along its length.

When comparing Micarta to carbon fiber it comes down to durability and weight savings. Carbon fiber is not an especially durable material, though it is very lightweight. As far as knife handles go, carbon fiber is excellent for inlays and panels, though it is not as good of a material for making full scales. When compared directly to Micarta or G-10, carbon fiber is harder to shape and is more difficult to apply a working textured finish.

Best Knives With Micarta Handles

Linen and canvas Micarta is my hands-down favorite material for knife handles. The reason I find these types of Micarta the best is that they provide the greatest degree of function in the hardest environments. I like G-10, but I have found it too slippery across the board when covered in blood and fat out hunting and it becomes ice cold to the touch very quickly. While it is a very durable material, it feels much more like plastic than Micarta and, for lack of a better way of saying it, never develops the character like wood, leather, or Micarta.

Linen or canvas Micarta offers the texture I want on a grip across the board, and I have put several products through an insane amount of daily use without any negative effects. Each of these knives I list here I have used for months or years, and I can strongly recommend them.

Winkler Utility Knife

The utility knife was the first Winkler I ever owned, and it is still a constant companion. I have used this knife extensively for everything from opening paint cans and cutting heavy-duty straps to prying apart pallets and even building out countertops and interior demolition.

I have logged hundreds of hours with this knife in hand and it has been extremely comfortable the entire time. The green Micarta handle has held up extremely well, though it now has some gouges from use. It is not on the cheap side, retailing at $450, but it has been worth every penny.

Case/Winkler No.6

A collaborative project between Case Knives and Winkler, the recurve utility No.6 is a heavy-duty knife built for some of the hardest projects. I have taken this knife with me out to the field and have also lent it out as a skinning knife for deer hunting.

Due to its deep, recurve belly it is exceptional for chopping tasks and is just as good in the kitchen as it is blasting through small limbs. While no longer available on the Case website, my version has a tan canvas Micarta grip and it has held up exceptionally well. While it’s not contoured exactly to my hand as I have experienced with knives direct from Winkler, it feels good in its own right and will provide a lifetime of use. The MSRP is $430.

White River Knife And Tool FC7

An extremely attractive, large knife, the FC7 is my go-to hunting knife for deer. While it may seem like a large knife, my experience in the field has taught me that it is probably the best big-game knife money can buy today. It is gorgeous to look at and the orange liners on the green Micarta definitely add to it. I see no reason why I will not continue to get years and years of use out of this product. The MSRP on the FC7 is $330.

White River Knife And Tool Exodus 4

The Exodus 4 is the knife that I use in the kitchen every day for almost all tasks. It is probably the most washed knife on this list. It has been constantly exposed to soap, oil, and all other manner of kitchen materials. It makes an excellent carrot peeler using the square edge of the spine.

My version has black Micarta panels, and they have held up extremely well to the constant washing and use. This knife and its grip have arguably been exposed to more caustic materials across-the-board than any of the other products, it was even put through the dishwasher several times by accident. The Exodus 4 is easy to hold even while in the direst of kitchen nightmares. The MSRP is $175.

ESEE Camp Lore RB3

The knife itself had some shortcomings. The steel is sharp but requires maintenance, and it is not very resistant to blood. My original version of this knife has been discontinued, Esee has a dimensionally identical, but cosmetically different, version for sale now. The MSRP on that knife is $190.

I don’t remember what the Camp Lore version cost many years ago, but it has held up to my abuse. The grip panels are Micarta, and they have seen more than their fair share of punishment. The blade shape was less than ideal for working on four or five deer in a night, and I quickly learned my lesson and moved to a bigger knife. I will say that in the years that I used this knife, it was a good friend for the field, and I look forward to passing it on to my kids when they are older.

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Best Hawkbill Knives: Getting Hooked

Mike Ableson

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January 10, 2025

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The Hawkbill Is An Excellent Multi-Purpose Blade, Great For Cutting, Carving And More.

Of all the blade styles at the modern aficionado’s disposal, the hawkbill may be one of the most peculiar.

As its name suggests, the blade is reminiscent of a raptor’s appendage, namely it’s beak. The point curves around, in most cases to a nearly 90-degree angle from the back, creating a hook shape. Overall, pretty dang cool. But it raises the question, exactly what the heck is it good for and why does it look this particular way?

In this article, we’ll delve into the origins, usage and modern iteration of this blade and what the heck it’s actually good for. Along the way, we’ll also perhaps help you pick out the best hawkbill blade for your needs.

Origin Of The Hawkbill

Many blade styles are rooted in history or evolved from another type of knife. The hawkbill, however, doesn’t have the clearest provenance.

The blade style is widely believed to have started as a farming and outdoor tool, an evolved version of the pruning hook. Somewhere along the line some industrious maker most likely figured a pocket sickle might prove right handy.

Likely it did for a classy vintner out among the grapes who did not want to slum it by asking for the help’s pruning hook. Heaven forbid. But as the greater part of humanity has broken free from its agrarian roots the utility of the hawksbill has expanded.

Modern Uses Of The Hawkbill Blade

True enough, rose growers and avocado ranchers likely still find the hawksbill handy. But the quirky style of knife has found a place for those not tilling their living from the soil.

Utility

Today, the hawkbill is best known for its utility role, prized by electricians, roofers, floorers and other craftsmen. The hook shape of blade helps it excel at certain tasks a straight blade might struggle. A few of the obvious are cutting carpet or shingles without scoring the unlaying material. Stripping wire is another area it earns an “A”.

Its curved tip also prevents it from being a hazard to its user in precarious positions—say crammed in a crawlspace or dangling on a rafter—where a clip point or the like might prove a bit pokey.

Carving

While not generally the go-to whittling or carving knife, the hawkbill earns its keep in this arena. For those who strictly practice this craft with knives, the style of blade is particularly good a removing large pieces of material at the begining of a project.

Tactical

Well… there are certainly companies out there selling their version of hawkbill knives with this in mind. Though, with healthy supply of DLC anything can be tactical—including a paring knife.

Given the vagaries of the word “tactical,” it’s difficult to claim it doesn’t fill this role. And certainly, there’s probably been more than one farmworker who’s thrown their hawkbill—or pruning hook—in his back pocket as Friday-night-on-the-town insurance. For the average Joe, however, it might not prove a prime choice in this role.

Unless specially trained, the hawkbill—like the karambit—is not the easiest blade to wield as a self-defense option. Funny thing is, many of the tactical “hawkbills” have nearly lost their defining feature—a truly hooked point. Some might argue, they are hawkbills in name only.

On the other hand, in more specialized “tactical” situations this style of blade could have chops. What comes to mind here is perhaps situations involving ropes—maybe nautical or mountaineering. The idea here is cordage could be cut one-handed in a switch, using the hawkbill to both hook and cut. A similar point on this, some law officers have favored a modified hawkbill given it works well to cut a motorist out of their seatbelt in an accident, without causing injury.

Best Hawkbill Knives Spec Comparison

Model	Overall Length (inches)	Blade Length (inches)	Weight (ounces)	Blade Steel	Handle Material	MSRP
Spyderco Hawkbill Byrd	6.82	2.875	2.6	8Cr13MoV	FRN	$50
Vosteed Griffin Knife	8.24	3.49	3.76	14C28N	G10	$80
Opinel No. 8 Hawkbill	8	3.5	3	12C27	Wood	$26
Bear & Sons Hawkbill	6.375	2.75	2.1	High Carbon Stainless Steel	Zytel	$25
Victorinox Pruning Knife XS	3.9	2	1.2	1.4110	Nylon	$23
Klein Tools Lockback	6.75	2.625	2.2	AUS8	Nylon	$50
Schrade 16 UH Pruner	7	3	3.4	7Cr17	Staglon	$32

Best Hawkbill Knives

Spyderco Hawkbill Byrd

Byrd Specs
Overall Length: 6.82 inches
Blade Length: 2.875 inches
Blade Steel: 8Cr13MoV
Weight: 2.6 ounces
Handle Material: FRN
MSRP: $50

Pros

Durable
Versatile Design
Quick Deployment

Cons

Serrated Edge Maintenance

Those wed to the idea of a EDC Hawkbill, Spyderco has among the most time-tested renditions. The Byrd’s modified hawkbill blade lends itself to aggressive cutting tasks and its hollow-ground serrated edge makes mincemeat of anything its pulled against. Yet, there is enough of a tip available to puncture or pry, if the situation calls for it.

Like everything that rolls out of the Golden, Colo., concern, the Byrd is ruggedly made—constructed with a chrome-moly steel blade and fiber-reinforced handle. Its tear-drop shaped thumb hole gets the knife into the fray quickly and its four-position clip allows you to keep it at hand.

Spyderco Byrd Hawkbill Lightweight Knife

$52.00

Palmetto State Armory $52.00

Prices accurate at time of publishing. Affiliate disclosure.

Vosteed Griffin

Griffin Specs
Overall Length: 8.24″
Blade Length: 3.49″
Blade Steel: 14C28N
Weight: 3.76
Handle Material: G10
MSRP: $80

Pros

Ergonomic Handle
Multiple Deployment Options
Good Steel

Cons

Non-Reversible Clip

Of all the hawkbills, the Griffin is among the most EDC-friendly. Vosteed pars back the hook on the blade massively, making something at first blush look like an oversized sheep’s foot. But at closer inspection, the edge has a very slight obliqueness to it, so the tip curves in as you’d expect in a hawkbill. The baby is great at tip cuts, slicing, and stripping—about anything you’d expect out of a curved blade. But, it also can pierce straight on, much like a more conventional blade profile.

The knife is a production version of R.S. Knifeworks’ custom knife. It shows in some of the well-thought-out points of design. Chief among these is the handle that naturally follows the curvature of the palm and features an attractive and durable G10 scale. Another point I like is the compound grind on the blade, with more material at the heel for more rugged cutting tasks. The knife is a liner lock, with a clip (tip-up carry) and multiple deployment options—thumb hole, front flipper and back flipper. The only complaint I have is the clip isn’t reversible, but other than that the knife really hits the mark.

Vosteed Griffin Hawkbill Liner Lock Knife Yellow G-10

$79.00

Blade HQ $79.00

Prices accurate at time of publishing. Affiliate disclosure.

Opinel No. 8 Hawkbill

No. 8 Hawkbill
Overall Length: 8″
Blade Length: 3.5
Blade Steel: 12C27
Weight: 3
Handle Material: Wood
MSRP: $26

Pros

Classic Aesthetic
Corrosion-Resistant Blade
Affordable

Cons

Handle Durability

It’s difficult not to love the classic look of this hawkbill—one of the perks of Opinel. While I don’t use the knife mainly for garden chores, the French cutler has aimed the folder at that. The company calls it a pruner, and after testing it on a few wild rose saplings, it more than fills this role. However, with a sharp tip and a good edge, the No. 8 Hawkbill is adept in many other tasks. One of my preferred uses is as a fishing knife and believe it or not it guts your catch in the blink of an eye.

Nice point on this model, Opinel uses stainless steel in the blade (12C27), so if you take it into wet conditions you don’t have to fret about the blade tarnishing. It also keeps a nice edge, albeit one you’ll have to touch up now and again—especially if you use it in its pruning role. The knife’s wooden handle can lose its finish over time and retain moisture. Pro tip, have one this long and use it in wet conditions, you can sand down the handle and oil it to keep it safe. The only real bone I have to pick with the No. 8—away from yard chores—is the handle; it flares back like a traditional pruner, which isn’t always great for other tasks.

Opinel Knives No. Knife #8

$19.00

Blade HQ $19.00

Prices accurate at time of publishing. Affiliate disclosure.

Bear & Sons Hawkbill

Bear & Sons Hawkbill
Overall Length: 6.375
Blade Length: 2.75
Blade Steel: High Carbon Stainless Steel
Weight: 2.1
Handle Material: Zytel
MSRP: $25

Pros

Compact
Effective Blade-to-Handle Ratio
Affordable

Cons

Two-Hand Deployment

Perhaps the perfect handyman’s helper, this little hawkbill is designed to always be at hand. I think that’s the beauty of what Bear & Sons has created here, a right-sized utility knife. Personally, it’s a little small for my tastes as a primary knife and it’s a folder—which doesn’t make it quite as handy, it works great as a secondary cutting tool. I like the idea of this and plenty of folks who make their living with their hands back me up on the concept.You drop your main knife or leave it in your toolbox at another area of the work site, well, the Bear & Sons knife gives you a backup. Using it to help me rewire some outlets, the high-carbon stainless steel blade made quick work stripping. And while wasn’t reflooring, I did have carpet scraps around, of which the blade made mincemeat.

A big asset in both tasks is the hawkbill’s handle-to-blade ratio. The handle is an inch longer than the 2.75-inch blade, which gave me supreme control over the knife and the ability to choke up on the blade when required. To boot, Bear & Sons includes a large bail loop allowing you to tether it to your person or at the very least retrieve it from your pocket quickly. The only nit I had to pick is it’s a slipjoint with a nail nick opener. Most of the time this won’t prove an issue, but there are jobs where one-handed opening is a godsend.

Bear & Son ZYTEL HAWKBILL KNIFE

$35.99 $26.99

Palmetto State Armory $26.99 MidwayUSA $22.99

Prices accurate at time of publishing. Affiliate disclosure.

Victorinox Pruning Knife XS

Pruning Knife XS
Overall Length: 3.9
Blade Length: 2
Blade Steel: 1.4110
Weight: 1.2
Handle Material: Nylon
MSRP: $23

Pros

Compact
Elegant
Durable

Cons

Two-Handed Opening

I like this knife for something different in pocket carry. As Victorinox makes apparent, it again pegs this hawkbill as a pruner and it’s just about perfect for the weekend garden warrior. But this slim, light and small slipjoint makes the cut as an EDC option with a twist. A very straightforward design, the knife is elegant in its simplicity and has a very functional blade. The hook is enough for its designed purpose of pruning limbs, yet it’s angled just right to make it a near-perfect box cutter. At just 4 inches folded, with a 2-inch blade, it could be a warehouse worker’s—or anyone who has to break down cardboard on the regular—best friend.

Blue-collar tasks aside, like all Swiss Army Knives, it’s gentlemanly enough to handle more refined tasks—such as removing the foil from a wine bottle. It also has a nice section of straight edge to it, so it can accomplish pull-through cuts adeptly. Again, a nail nick opener cuts some of the knife’s utility, since it requires two hands to get into the fray.

Klein Tools Hawkbill Lockback

Hawkbill Lockback Knife Specs
Overall Length: 6.75 inches
Blade Length: 2.625 inches
Blade Steel: AUS8 stainless
Weight: 2.2 ounces
Handle Material: Nylon resin
MSRP: $49.99

Pros

Versatile
Convenient Carry
Lightweight

Cons

Slow Locking Mechanism

This lockback knife from Klein Tools shows what the hawkbill is capable of as a utility tool. It easily opens one-handed thanks to a thumb stud and the stainless blade holds a mighty edge. It’s capable of being a do-everything tool on the job site or an excellent utility knife around the house. It’s made with longevity in mind, with Klein utilizing AUS8 stainless steel in the blade, and the impact-resistant nylon resin handle can stand up to the beating of being a work tool. The low-carry pocket/belt clip lets you carry the knife with ease and in a way that best suits you.

Schrade 16 UH Hawkbill Pruner

UH Hawkbill Pruner Knife Specs
Overall Length: 7 inches
Blade Length: 3 inches
Blade Steel: 7Cr17 stainless steel
Weight: 3.4 ounces
Handle Material: Staglon synthetic
MSRP: $31.99

Pros

Affordable
Rustic, Rugged Aesthetic
Good Blade Size

Cons

Two-Handed Opening

Schrade offers excellent knives and the company’s hawkbill folder is no exception. With a rustic, rugged look, the 16 UH, which stands for Uncle Henry, is designed to prune shrubs and cut through wood with ease. Its staglon synthetic handle gives the knife a natural look that you wouldn’t get with G-10, aluminum or other handle materials. The stainless steel blade makes quick work of a variety of woods, and the 3-inch blade is big enough for longer cutting strokes and small enough for precise, finite work. At under $40, it’s well-priced. This is a knife that most any woodworker would want to have.

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What Goes Into Making A Good Linerlock Knife?

Mike Haskew

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May 30, 2025

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What Goes Into Making A Good Linerlock Knife?

Go inside linerlocks to judge its operation and workmanship.

For those who truly appreciate the custom knife, particularly the variety of folders, there is beauty in the function as well as the aesthetic qualities of the piece. Nowhere is that functional beauty more evident than in the intricacies, tolerances and precision of a well-made linerlock.

Inspecting the inner workings of the linerlock presents an opportunity to evaluate its operation and determine the degree of expertise that has gone into the finished product. In assessing what goes into the best of linerlock construction, top makers agree that the critical connection between spring and blade is the most obvious indicator of a particular lock’s capabilities. To be sure, there are other aspects to consider in the evaluation of the well-constructed linerlock, and these should never be discounted. But first things first.

Blade-Spring Relationship

“There is more to proper linerlock construction than just the blade-spring relationship,” agreed Ethan Kolar, a custom maker since 2020 with about 65 percent of his work devoted to the linerlock. “There’s a lot of small things that work together to make the knife function as it should, but the blade-spring-lock relationship is the most crucial part of the knife’s functionality as it is critical to a safe and user-friendly knife.”

Ethan Kolar uses an unusual material for the liners of his Persian Style Linerlock—15N20 nickel-alloy steel—and stipples it to boot. “It’s a good, springy material and has good wear resistance allowing the lock to have a longer life before maintenance needs to be done or the lock needs to be extended,” he wrote. Ethan opts for a smaller spring (middle panel, top) on his Persian model. (SharpByCoop image)

When Maverik Murdock watches his linerlock work, blade and spring functionality is his primary concern as well.

“The lock fit is probably the first noticeable portion of a well-made linerlock folder, but it is a small part of what makes an overall good knife,” he explained. “The lock fit, or timing, is a good thing to look for as a sign of attention to detail from a folder maker, though there is some personal preference on how the lock fits.”

Murdock has been making custom knives for 15 years and folders for the last five with about 60 percent of his current output in linerlocks.

“Other good signs of a well-made linerlock are good fit and finish with the materials used,” he observed. “The blade should be centered between the liners when closed. This is a sign of proper pivot construction, good bearings or bushings and good alignment of the liner, back spacer and blade. Smooth travel when opening and closing the blade is also good.”

Repercussions Of A Bad Relationship

The Boomslang linerlock folder by K.C. Gray boasts a 4-inch blade of CuMai copper damascus by Baker Forge & Tool, mammoth molar scales, zirconium furniture and hidden hardware. Closed length: 5 inches. Gray’s price for a similar knife: $2,500. (SharpByCoop knife image)

In the event the linerlock fails the first critical test and the function is flawed, there are consequences.

“If the lockup engagement isn’t correct, it will do one of two things in my experience,” Maverik began. “If there isn’t enough engagement, it could create an unsafe and unstable lock as there isn’t enough lock contacting the blade, which will run the risk of the blade coming back on the user’s hand. On the other end of the spectrum, too much lock engagement can crowd the user’s thumb or thumbnail, making it difficult to release the lock and decrease its service life as the lock has less area to wear into before it has sloppy lock engagement. The most common types of incorrect lock interfaces, I would say, are the two I’ve listed. However, in my opinion, over-engagement is more common than under-engagement as it is easy to both grind more material than is needed for proper lock engagement and the blade taper angle can be easily canted less than is necessary.”

If the spring extends beyond the optimal position, the condition is commonly described as “overtravel,” and the knife’s function is significantly impaired as time and use progress.

“If the lock bar has overtravel or over engagement, it generally isn’t dangerous to begin with because the angle change on the lock bar isn’t high enough to compromise the compression strength of the lock under normal working conditions,” Murdock explained. “But that does depend on the construction of the knife and materials used. Overtravel generally just means a shortened working life of the lock mechanism where it would need to be replaced sooner than a properly timed lock. The problems with overtravel begin to show up with the reach to the far side of the lock. If the lock bar fully reaches the other side of the lock, there comes a point where it no longer has contact with the blade when open, or has minimal pressure where it can bind.”

Other Linerlock Concerns

Marverik Murdock’s Steadfast has a 3.5-inch blade in a san-mai construction of CPM 154 stainless steel and CPM 3V carbon steel. The scales are Fatcarbon® space coral and the bolsters are feather damascus. Closed length: 4.25 inches. His price for a similar knife: $3,200.

K.C. Gray has been making custom knives for a decade and collecting them for 30 years. He produces about 100 knives per year and roughly half are linerlocks. His perspective on quality workmanship includes the vital connection between spring and blade as well as other factors.

Interface

“That interface is the prime concern,” Gray observed, “and people usually talk about it in terms of ‘percent of lockup.’ Basically, that is how much the lockbar travels across the lock face toward the opposite liner. Everybody has their own idea of the ideal number. Some like as little as 10 percent lockup. I think most makers would say 40 to 50 percent would be the correct range. Too little lockup and the blade can slip off the lockbar and close. Too much and the lock will stick or even light wear will cause the blade to wiggle. So getting the lockup in the sweet spot in the middle is a sure sign the knife was well constructed.”

Detent

According to K.C., other critical elements should be considered in the overall quality of a particular linerlock.

“Other things to look for would be the strength of the detent holding the blade in the closed position,” he advised. “It should be firm enough that the blade doesn’t fall open when lightly shaken. But it can also be a problem if the detent is too strong. If it’s very strong it can make opening awkward and dangerous. Thumbs can slip onto the cutting edge or the knife can be dropped more easily. Another thing to look for is the centering of the blade between the liners. It should be bang down the middle except in chisel-ground blades.

Clearance

“Something else,” Gray continued, “is whether there is enough clearance between the liners for the thumb to get purchase on the lock to disengage it. If the blade is thick, often no relief is needed. But a thinner blade will usually need some relief cut into the opposite liner. It’s usually a sign that the maker thought the design through thoroughly.”

Other Aspects To Look For In Linerlocks

Viewed straight on two-dimensionally, some folders scream linerlock while others do not. The linerlock folding dagger by Brian Nadeau with dragon engraving by Vitalij Quaranta fits the latter category. (SharpByCoop image)

Of course, there are attributes to the well-made linerlock that are not necessarily visible. The feel in the hand and the ease of simple repetition in opening and closing contribute to the best linerlock experience.

“The blade motion when opening and closing should be smooth and consistent through the whole opening/closing cycle,” Murdock related. “Some makers like more or less drag on the blade, but it should be consistent. If the drag is excessive, it can be a sign of improper pivot sizing or too much lock bar pressure. The blade should have little or no side play when open. If it does the pivot may not be tight enough or the working surfaces may not be in alignment. The blade should be centered when closed and should be tight against the stop pin with a firm enough detent to prevent accidental deployment.”

Kolar also acknowledges the telltale signs of poor construction that are not necessarily readily apparent on sight and warns prospective buyers to consider these red flags.

“There are a few limited signs of improper construction that can’t be seen by the eye,” he commented. “Sloppy blade lockup oftentimes is very difficult to see as it doesn’t take very much for the blade to rock against the lock. How tight the blade pivots is another, as well as whether it has side play in the blade, and this is something that you can usually only feel. A good simple rule for cases such as these from both the maker and the buyer standpoint is to go with your gut on what you feel. A lock should lock up tight with no horizontal side play and no vertical lock play relative to spring size. Smaller springs can compress easier than larger.”

Questions To Ask When Buying A Linerlock

As K.C. Gray observed, the “percent of lockup” refers to how much the spring/lockbar travels across the lock face toward the opposite liner. “I think most makers would say 40 to 50 percent would be the correct range,” he opined. Brian Nadeau appears to achieve that range (far right, middle panel, top) with his dragon-themed linerlock. (SharpByCoop image)

When buyer and seller meet, the evaluation of a prospective linerlock should include more than just a consideration of the knife itself. Buyers should engage the maker in conversation and ask a few questions. A healthy dialogue always enhances the experience and gives the customer confidence in the decision to plunk down hard-earned money.

“Ask about the liner material,” Gray offered. “It’s almost always titanium in custom knives. Ask what angle the lock face has been ground to. Most often seven to nine degrees is used. Ask if the blade runs on bearings or washers. And just ask if the maker can explain the materials used and why he or she likes those materials.”

Murdock agrees. “If you are talking to a maker about his work, he should know the process and materials used and should be confident in what he does. It’s good to ask about the materials and why they’re used. If you can see the work in person and look at these points and the fit and finish, that’s a great place to start.”

The making of a quality linerlock requires attention to detail and presents challenges that go well beyond a simple aesthetic. While eye appeal is always a factor, the proof of the linerlock’s worth is in its operation. Informed buyers can help themselves in taking the time to understand the attributes of linerlock mechanics and the skill that is present in the finished product. Then, the unbeatable combination of beauty and optimal use can be attained.

Check Out More Buyer’s Guides:

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Best Scissor Sharpeners: Where To Find Your Edge

Pat Covert

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June 16, 2025

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Best Scissor Sharpeners: Where To Find Your Edge

Consider three cool tools to keep your scissors shearing sharp.

I sharpen knives frequently but must admit I’m a loathsome scissors sharpener. It’s not like I’ve never sharpened scissors but only when I had to and never in an organized way.

However, when my editor gave me an assignment on scissors sharpeners, I took it as a personal challenge to mend my ways—and off I went. What follows is a primer on scissors sharpening using three different systems.

Before starting, there are a few obvious things to point out.

The most obvious is the fact that there are two blades to sharpen instead of one. Second, the two blade edges are sharpened to oppose each other. Third, most scissors are made for righthanders and can give lefthanders fits, especially models with asymmetrical handles. Some southpaws have more trouble than others, and if you are among them you might seek out companies that either offer lefthanded models, such as Fiskars, or those that specialize in such products, like Lefty’s Left Hand Store. My brother’s lefthanded and he’s never bought any lefty scissors. Instead, he simply buys and uses symmetrical right-hand-only models.

Simple handheld or desktop scissors sharpeners are the way to go if you want to keep a decent edge with very little hassle and time consumption.

I tested two affordable versions: the AccuSharp ShearSharp Scissors Sharpener and the Smith’s V-Slot Knife & Scissors Sharpener. The pistol-grip-looking units appear similar at first but are actually quite different. The text and graphics on the back side of the cards the sharpeners are mounted on is very helpful, though if you’re like me you will need reading glasses to decipher them.

AccuSharp ShearSharp Scissors Sharpener

AccuSharp ShearSharp Scissors Sharpener
Size: 5.5 x 2.4 inches
Type: Hand-held, single sharpening blade
Abrasive: Tungsten carbide
Handle length: 5.6 inches
Handle material: Plastic
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $9.59

The AccuSharp ShearSharp has a grip with a guard for knuckle protection and there’s a slot on the fore-end with a tungsten-carbide-metal sharpener for running down the blade bevel, sharpening it in the process. Open the scissors and lay the blades, one at a time, face-up to the sharpening medium. The rear blade—the one not being sharpened—hangs off the table or you can put it on a raised platform such as a wood block or book.

A hand-held design, the AccuSharp ShearSharp Scissors Sharpener addresses the blade bevels one at a time. You’ll need your reading glasses for these instructions, too!

The ShearSharp metal sharpener is canted to the angle of the bevel and runs down the blade from base to tip, rear to front. Accusharp recommends two to three passes of the sharpener, then flip the scissors over and do the same to the second blade. As with all three test units, keep an eye on your progress as scissors come in all phases of disrepair.

Smith’s V-Slot Knife & Scissors Sharpener

The bevels are sharpened when pushing the scissors blade tips simultaneously into the respective V-slots of the Smith’s unit. The diagonally mounted ceramic rod sharpens both blades at the same time. (Covert image)

Smith’s V-Slot Knife & Scissors Sharpener
Size: 6.75 x 2.74 inches
Type: Hand-held, two sharpening blades
Abrasive: Ceramic
Handle length: 6.75 inches
Handle material: Plastic
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $9.99

Smith’s V-Slot Knife & Scissors Sharpener is a bit more sophisticated with great finger protection, and is easier to use. Inside the handle is a slot that holds a 1,000-grit ceramic rod angled to sharpen the two scissors bevels at the same time. The bevels are sharpened when pushing the scissors blade tips into the respective V-slots simultaneously. (Smith’s recommends not sharpening by pulling the blades out.)

You may need your reading glasses to decipher the instructions for the Smith’s V-Slot Knife & Scissors Sharpener.

Two to three passes is usually enough for blades of average dullness, more if needed. Once again, stopping to gauge your progress is your friend. An added benefit with the Smith’s sharpener is you can sharpen both right- and left-handed scissors depending on which side of the handle slot you use, and it’s conveniently noted on the sides of the unit itself.

Spyderco Golden Stone

Starting at the top, slide the blade’s beveled edge down the length of the Golden Stone, gradually working the edge toward the tip. Once the edge is sharp, give the opposite blade the same treatment.

Spyderco Golden Stone Sharpener
Size: 7.2 x 3 inches
Type: Desktop sharpener
Abrasive: Alumina
Handle: None
Carry: Suede leather pouch
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $210

I have become very familiar with the Spyderco Golden Stone sharpener over the years and have included it in several articles, though not for sharpening scissors. Spyderco knives are well known for their premier out-of-the-box sharpness, and company founder and BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Sal Glesser is a long-time guru on the topic, including today on YouTube.

The Golden Stone is a Glesser design that enables you to sharpen knives in many ways and at different angles, and even serrated blades. Spyderco uses alumina (aluminum oxide) for the Golden Stone’s material and other of its sharpeners, and claims the resulting models do not require oil or water for surface sharpening. Check out Spyderco’s YouTube sharpening videos for a myriad of ways to sharpen the company’s knives.

Designed by Spyderco founder Sal Glesser, the Spyderco Golden Stone is an odd triangular ceramic sharpener fit for many uses—one of which is sharpening scissors. For sharpening, position the suede pouch that carries the Golden Stone on a flat base to provide a non-slip surface. (Covert image)

To start with the Golden Stone, use the accompanying suede pouch as a non-slip surface on a flat base. Employ the stone’s rough triangular shape with the long side sideways and vertically. Grip the short side of the triangle with the long vertical side to your right, forming the sharpening platform. Now you’re ready to sharpen the first blade bevel.

Open the scissors wide and position the top of the base of the bevel grind over the high point of the sharpener, and slide it toward the low end as you slowly pull toward you.

It’s like sharpening a knife where you start at one end and slowly slide the tip toward the opposite end as you go—you’re just putting an edge on the bevel instead. Spyderco recommends eight to 10 passes but, once again, use your judgment depending on the condition of the scissors. Once you’re pleased with the bevel on the first blade, flip the scissors over and repeat the process on the second blade. When done you can remove any burr on the edges of the two blades by opening and closing the scissors a few times.

Conclusion

Both handheld units did a good job of sharpening the bevels, and though I prefer a ceramic sharpening rod just because you can better “feel” it rubbing against the bevel, there was no noticeable difference in the results. These two sharpeners are capable of putting a very decent edge on your scissors.

Fiskars is one of the few major companies that manufactures scissors specifically for lefthanders, and is known for such radically asymmetrical designs as these two. The red pair is for lefties.

The end result of my efforts with the Golden Stone paid off with two razor-sharp beveled edges on the scissors blades. Spyderco doesn’t assign numbers to the grits on its sharpening media, but the best I can tell the white alumina like that used on the Golden Stone is in the fine, 2,000-grit range.

Where To Find Your Edge

Is all the cost, time and increased degree of skill required by the Spyderco Golden Stone worth it? That’s up to you and what your expectations of your scissors are. There are folks whose livelihoods depend on scissors, others that just want to get the mail out the door and scads of people in-between. Choose your sharpener!

More Sharpening Articles:

Knife Sharpening: What’s the Best Angle?
5 Myths About Knife Sharpening
5 Leading Sharpening Rods
4 Steps to Perfect Freehand Sharpening

BLADE 101: Types Of Kitchen Knives

Mike Ableson

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June 29, 2022

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There Are So Many Types Of Kitchen Knives It’s Hard To Know Which Are Necessary. We’ll Set You Straight.

Watch any cooking show or pursue the cutlery section of a kitchen store, it’s easy to wonder why chefs have so many knives. Are they all necessary? Are some there just so they can show off?

Far from it. Each has its place in the kitchen. But before groaning over the cost and space constraints of procuring each and every type of kitchen knife take solace, you don’t need them all.

That’s what this guide is for. We’ll walk you through some of the most important types of kitchen knives and a few of the oddballs. Afterward, you should stand ready to stock your galley with the tools that count.

Types Of Kitchen Knives: The Must-Haves

When it comes to the necessities, these four types of kitchen knives are the ones everyone should own. Whether you buy them individually, or as part of a knife set, these are the ones you absolutely need.

Chef’s Knife

To use a sports analogy, your chef’s knife is your quarterback/point guard/ace pitcher. If you can only have one knife, this is the knife you need to buy. A good chef’s knife should be able to handle almost every task in the kitchen.

Since chef’s knives are usually 8-10 inches long, they are great for slicing meats and cutting produce. The wide, weighty blade is good for crushing aromatics like garlic and ginger. You can choke up on your grip to do more precise, fine knifework although that puts your hand closer to the cutting edge–not ideal. Some use a pinch grip, “pinching” the blade between the tips of the thumb and index finger near the spine just forward of the handle, for precise cuts.

Made from either stainless or carbon steel, the stainless varieties will be easier to maintain at home. The chef’s knife is the ultimate all-rounder, thus why it is without question the most important knife in the kitchen.

Bread Knife

The bread knife, aside from being excellent at cutting bread, is the go-to knife for cutting fragile food items like tomatoes. The serrated blade can get a better bite on thin-skinned produce with a fragile core. Of course, the crunchy exterior of a loaf of bread is no match for it either.

An extremely sharp chef’s can also do these softer tasks, but if it’s dulled it tends to be more destructive than beneficial while cutting. Most bread knives are quite long, but no matter the length, it’s your best option in the kitchen for safely cutting softer foods.

Paring Knife

Rounding out the main trio of types of knives is the paring knife. The nimble little slicer is much shorter than the chef’s knife and is designed for small cuts and precision. Looking to hull a strawberry or thinly slice garlic? Choose the paring knife. Want to devein shrimp or score a steak? Choose the paring knife.

Many paring knives have blades similar in size to pocketknives. This limits its utility. Much as you wouldn’t want to clear brush with a pocketknife, you wouldn’t want to butcher a whole slab of ribs with a paring knife.

A point to consider: a good handle is as important as a quality blade with paring knives. Control is the name of the game, and that comes from the handle.

Steak Knives

Henckels 8-Piece Serrated Steak Knife Set. MSRP: $49.99

While not a kitchen knife in the sense it’s a famous cutter, having a good set of steak knives is incredibly important. Whether you realize it or not, how you slice meat affects its overall taste and enjoyability. A set of blunt-edged knives can reduce the savor of a ribeye to that of a cubesteak.

Steak knives come in both serrated and plain-edge varieties so you won’t necessarily be locked into one style of knife.

Most knife blocks come with steak knives as part of the package, yet there are many quality options available individually. Don’t skimp on these. Six to 10 quality steak knives, made of good high-carbon stainless steel, ensures all your hard work in the kitchen doesn’t go to waste at the table.

Types Of Kitchen Knives: Nice To Haves

Once you have the main four types of kitchen knives, you can start filling out your collection with some specialty pieces. These five are the next group of models to look at buying.

Santoku

The santoku is a Japanese knife designed to handle the tasks of chopping, slicing, and cutting. It’s smaller than a chef’s knife and sometimes features small dimples, or a Granton Edge, on the blade to help shed pieces of food and aid cutting.

The advantage of the knife is its flexibility, moving seamlessly between culinary tasks. Additionally, the generally shorter blade makes it easier to control than the traditional chef’s knife. Also, the santoku’s ample blade safely facilitates a pinch grip for those who use this particular technique.

When it comes to types of kitchen knives, this one resides right on the line of must and nice to have. If you like to learn more, we have a great breakdown of some of the best Santoku knives.

Boning Knife

As its name suggests, a boning knife is meant for one task: deboning meats. Whether it’s butchering a chicken thigh or getting bone out of a pork chop, the boning knife is up for the task. A good boning knife will be thin, sharp, and, most importantly, flexible so it can bend around bones and get into crevices to free the meat.

For most this knife isn’t an everyday necessity. However, if you happen to buy sides of beef or process wild game, you do well to have one at your beck and call.

Meat Cleaver

Zhen VG-10 67-Layer Damascus Large Cleaver, 8-Inch. MSRP: $135

If the chef’s knife is the quarterback, the meat cleaver is the massive, brawny linebacker. The cleaver features a thick, heavy blade so it can chop right through the breastplate of a chicken or break down a whole cow.

Super fun and satisfying to use, the cleaver is great if you’re looking to butcher cuts of meat at home. Furthermore, if you deal with frozen foods–say a tube of breakfast sausage–it really lightens the work.

All that said, not everyone requires a meat cleaver. The exceptions again are folk who buy partially butchered meat or hunters with a freezer full of wild game. On the other hand, you might find if you add one to your collection it could turn out more versatile than expected.

By the way, we have an excellent piece about the best meat cleavers available today.

Carving Knife

A classy kitchen tool, the carving knife can be a showpiece brought out to carve the Thanksgiving turkey or the Christmas ham right on the table. Other than that, it’s pretty one-dimensional.

Many times carving knives come in sets complete with a matching carving fork to keep what’s being carved in place. Don’t confuse the carving knife with its close cousin the slicing knife. The former has a point, the latter is blunted and longer. Its whole jam is to slice girthier cuts of meat uniformly.

Unless you serve a slew of prime rib, you want a carver. The tip makes it more useful at the table, particularly on fowl. Try getting a turkey thigh off with a slicer. Even if the knife’s sporadically used, spend the money on a quality blade made of steel that holds an edge. You want to carve during the holidays, not sharpen.

Bench Scraper

The bench scraper is a great multi-purpose tool, particularly if you bake. It can precisely cut through doughs and it can quickly help clean a messy, dusty workspace. Nothing corrals rogue flour as quickly as a bench scraper. But if you prefer buying your baked goods, you can take a pass.

Types Of Kitchen Knives: The Specialist

These types are knives are great at doing one particular task and not much more. Unless you really love doing these things in the kitchen, you probably won’t need these. But they are all distinctive blades in their own way.

Mezzaluna

You rock this back and forth to chop herbs and other soft, mostly leafy, greens. While it may sound like the name of an opera, this knife only sings one tune.

Tomato Knife

Do you really, really, really like tomatoes? Do you wring your hands over making sure you perfectly cube a tomato for a salad or make precise slices for a BLT? Then this is the knife for you. Otherwise, your bread knife should work just fine. By the way, since everyone is dying to know, the forked tip aids in peeling tomatoes without cutting the pulp.

Salmon Knife

Mercer Culinary 10.3-inch Salmon Slice. MSRP: $26.67

If you’re looking to skin or slice salmon, or most other types of fish, or if you want to make sushi at home, look no further than the salmon knife. Long, thin and flexible, it’s great at cutting through the fragile flesh of fish.

Cimeter

This massive meat-cutting knife is great if you want to feel like a marauding pirate or just want a big butcher’s knife specifically to cut large pieces of meat. A chef’s knife or carving knife would also work here.

Oyster Shucker

OXO Good Grips Oyster Knife. MSRP: $10.99

This rounded blade is necessary if you want to open and eat oysters and not your thumb. If you’re not a fan of raw shellfish, there isn’t a reason to have this knife.

Mandoline

The mandoline is great at two things: cutting produce into thin slices and removing a knuckle from your fingers. If you get one of these always remember to use the guard. Otherwise, take your time with a paring knife to cut your veggies thin.

Cheese Knife

Different types of cheese require different types of cheese knives. The folks at Epicurious have a great video showing the correct way to cut dozens of different cheeses. I’ll stick with slices or just futzing with a butter knife.

Confectioner’s Knife

Do you like cake? Of course you do. Do you want a knife specifically for cutting cake? Maybe you do, and if so, this is the type of knife you would want to use.

Read More

5 Best Serbian Chef’s Knives
Best Japanese Kitchen Knives Worth A Look
5 Best Meat Cleaver Options
5 Best Santoku Knife Options
The Beauty Of Handmade Kitchen Knives
Best Kitchen Knife Set To Upgrade Your Galley
5 Of The Best Chef’s Knives Available Today

Feather Damascus: Blades Forged Light And Airy

Mike Haskew

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August 6, 2026

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Feather Damascus: Blades Forged Light And Airy

The popular pattern offers a complex combination of material and motif.

The variations on damascus steel themes are endless. The possibilities are tempered only by the maker’s time at the forge and his or her desire to create.

Among these many variations, one pattern has recently captured the spotlight. These days, feather damascus is trending and custom makers are producing knives that turn heads, captivating buyers with the intricate layering that produces hard steel intertwined with the look of the light and wispy. Feather damascus offers a medium of both performance and artistic expression that influences every aspect of the maker’s creativity.

Ethan Kolar of Plummer, Idaho, describes his interest in feather damascus as “chaotic flow.” He explains, “The pattern’s center seam, where the jagged W’s converge, creates a flow in the blade which really adds to the overall confluence of the knife as well as creating a controlled chaos as the pattern explodes from the center filling out the blade.”

Kolar enjoys the hint of “jaggedness” and the center line that ties the blade together, and in the making of his feather damascus, his focus lies in test etching every restack from the forge. He sees the pattern in many different forms with the observation that “a pattern is not right or wrong but more of what the maker envisions and creates and what is right to him for his knife.”

The folding dagger Ethan composed includes a 3-inch feather damascus blade of 1084 and 15N20 steels with an engraved gold inlay and scroll worked 416 stainless steel window frame fitted with exhibition-grade white-lip mother of pearl. Liners are 15N20 file-worked and nitre blued, while the backbar of 416 stainless is engraved and sports delicate file work. Its overall length is 7 inches.

“Most of the inspiration I have while making damascus comes from envisioning my final product,” Ethan remarked, “what engraving will go with it, the handle embellishment, and a lot to do with the overall color of the knife, deciding whether the pattern will be brighter or darker.”

Steel On Fire

Winning Best Damascus at the 2025 BLADE Show West, Trevor Morgan’s “Torrent of Fire” chef’s knife includes a 9.25-inch blade of 1084 and 15N20 in a mix of W’s and straight layers with a fat core of 15N20. The knife’s overall length is 14.2 inches, and the handle is dark red tiger’s blood amboyna burl with a splash of sapwood for contrast. (Jocelyn Frasier image)

Another contemporary artisan exploring the feather damascus pattern is ABS journeyman smith Trevor Morgan. Having attended the Bill Moran School of Bladesmithing in Texarkana, Texas, in 2020, his goal with each feather damascus blade is to make the pattern “pop.” To achieve that look, his hand follows an artistic eye.

“Contrast, for sure, really makes any pattern cool,” said Trevor, “especially feather or mosaic damascus, larger pieces of dark and bright steel, gradients and that kind of thing. Also, out-of-the-ordinary stuff like feather [damascus] can be really cool to look at. Symmetry is always great with a feather pattern because it’s pretty easy to notice when something is out of whack with a feather due to the defined center. Complexity is also great. If it’s hard to figure out, all the better.”

According to Morgan, a resident of Apple Valley, California, the feather pattern can be challenging due to the hot-cut process, which puts enormous stress on the billet in somewhat weird ways and causes every forge weld to want to split open. The problem, however, can be mitigated by mig welding all the way around the seams. But this is his least favorite method of achieving the integrity of the billet because it requires grinding away the welds, wasting material and consuming time.

Trevor’s inspiration for feather damascus pieces comes from the world around him. “It’s places and people,” he commented, “from nature and the endeavor to make something organic and as lifelike as possible in steel. I regularly get swept up in the general zeitgeist surrounding the making of complex patterns. I see something on social media or somewhere, and I think, ‘Man, that’s really awesome! I’d love to try to make something like that.’ Then comes the real creative part, where I just get an idea of something that might look really cool and put it together.”

Morgan’s method is readily revealed in his featured piece, named “Torrent of Fire.” The knife includes a 9.25-inch blade of 1084 and 15N20 in a mix of W’s and straight layers with a fat core of 15N20. The knife’s overall length is 14.2 inches, and the handle is dark red tiger’s blood amboyna burl with a splash of sapwood for contrast.

Organic Appeal

Splitting the billet down the center to maintain symmetry is among the trickiest aspects of feather damascus to Steve Randall. He nails it on his frame-handle hunter, with the axis of the pattern fountaining from the mastodon scales in a balanced and spectacular fashion. (SharpByCoop image)

Feather damascus has been a staple steel for ABS master smith Steve Randall for some time. He seeks a continual flow of the steel from the handle to the tip, and oriented so that the handle appears to actually hold a feather. “I was attracted to the feather pattern because of it’s a very cool, organic look,” he advised. “Like a snowflake, there are no two exactly the same. I’ve been forging feather damascus for at least seven years, and I’ve made several bowies and hunters.”

Randall, of Estancia, New Mexico, presents his feather damascus piece with frame-handle construction, showcasing mastodon scales with an overall length of 9½ inches and a blade of 4¾ inches. “Feather damascus is a more challenging pattern,” he said. “My tricks are patience and concentration. There are many welds involved in the pattern, which can contribute to cold shuts, which can destroy hours of hard work. The trickiest part is splitting the billet right down the middle and maintaining symmetry.”

While he describes the feather damascus forging process as complicated and labor-intensive, Steve sees the payoff in the harmony of the pattern and its related materials in the finished knife. “I always try to complement it with the best handle materials I have available,” he reasoned. “I prefer stag or ivory. If using wood, I avoid busy patterns and colors. I draw inspiration from many other makers. There are so many accomplished makers who produce a variety of feather patterns. It is one of my favorite patterns to forge because it can really accent the flow of the blade and give it a great overall look.”

Movement And Flow

While David Lisch doesn't feel he's hit the limits of his Mountain Man folder, the style of knife is striking with its feather damascus blade set in stag-tip handle. Copper hardware and pivot give the knife its antediluvian look, while the flowing pattern of the blade anchors it in modern forge techniques. (David Lisch image) — While David Lisch doesn’t feel he’s hit the limits of his Mountain Man folder, the style of knife is striking with its feather damascus blade set in stag-tip handle. Copper hardware and pivot give the knife its antediluvian look, while the flowing pattern of the blade anchors it in modern forge techniques. (David Lisch image)

It took a single demonstration by the great master smith Harvey Dean to convince David Lisch, who earned his ABS journeyman stamp in 2009 and his master stamp six years later, to try the feather pattern. “I was always attracted to feather damascus,” he remembered, “but around 2008 I had the chance to see Harvey Dean demonstrate it at an event at Josh Smith’s, and I went right home and made the tools needed and gave it a go. I’ve been making feather damascus since his demo, and my hat is off to Harvey.”

For David, the making of feather damascus is challenging, but he says book matching the blocks really helps with the constant flow of the pattern. Sometimes, he says, makers will intentionally disrupt the flow by spinning one block one way and one the other to enhance the look. If it is done intentionally, he advises, there is no wrong way to stack the blocks. Forging all begins with the initial stack, and David starts with a 12- to 15-pound billet, acknowledging that the pattern can be wasteful in material. He tries not to go too far or stop too short in the forging process and offers that sometimes less is actually more.

“I love feather damascus because it looks different from maker to maker,” added Lisch. “I like a feather with movement and flow, not too bold and not way too fine, something that is easy to look at. For me, the more the pattern follows the forging, the more I like it. The center should lift up into the bolster or ricasso, showing that the blade was forged rather than running off the blade under the ricasso, showing it was just ground into a shape that disrupts the flow.”

Lisch gained a measure of popularity with his Mountain Man 2 folder, and the pictured knife is an example of what he describes as a “deep dive” into the style while using stag tips. “I set out trying to create my own version of one of the oldest knife designs in America,” he remarked, “and I believe I did just OK. But I’m not finished. So far, I’ve made several versions of the folder and have taken it even further with help from my friend and mentor [master smith] Mike Vagnino.”

Lisch had brought together his feather damascus touch and innovative design composition by introducing a clocking adjustable pivot that he has incorporated into a slipjoint, linerlock, lockback and flipper, all in the Mountain Man style with bronze, copper, stag and, of course, feather damascus. He has yet to reach the outer limits of his Mountain Man creativity and says that more will come in due time.

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