Knife collecting is an extremely rewarding experience for knife enthusiasts. There truly is a knife for everyone. Many increase or hold their value throughout the years, making collecting knives something to pass on to the next generation of knife collectors.
No matter the brand or model, sharpening steels are used the same way. Most manufacturers recommend using one while standing at the kitchen counter or seated at a table.
The Set Up
Take the sharpening steel and place the tip on the table, held upright with the handle at the top.
With one hand, grasp the handle firmly, keeping it perpendicular with the flat surface at all times.
With the other hand, grasp the knife handle and place the blade at a 20-to-30 degree angle in relation to the sharpening steel. Place the blade as close to the guard as possible, set to start at the part of the blade closest to the tang.
Move the Blade
In one motion, move the blade down the length of the rod while at the same time draw the blade fully across the steel. When you near the flat surface you are working from, though without touching the surface, you should be at the blade tip.
Repeat
Raise the blade to where you started from, switching the blade to the opposite side, then repeat the same stroke. Then, return to the side you started from, and repeat once again. Do an equal amount of strokes for both sides of the blade.
Getting Better
As you become more comfortable using the sharpening steel, you can forego the flat surface and hold the steel with one hand similar to how you would a large kitchen knife. With the other hand, place the blade on the rod at the recommended 20-to-30 degree angle and lightly push the blade across the rod, ending at the blade tip.
I highly recommend you not proceed to this step until you are confident enough, because with this alternate method chances for not holding the angle correctly is greater.
Let the Rod Do the Work
Whatever method you use, remember to always use light strokes. There is no need to bear down on the blade with pressure. Let the rod do the work.
From left, the ball bearing slides into the channel formed by the blade and the handle as the Spyderco Polliwog is closed. The ball bearing self-adjusts when the knife is opened and/or closed. (David Jung photo)
The idea of a ball bearing used as a knife lock may seem like a contradiction. Ball bearings are designed to keep things in motion, not freeze them in place. However, it is the shape of the ball bearing that gives the Spyderco Ball Bearing Lock some of its greatest strengths.
Since variations on knife shapes and handle materials are harder to patent, that leaves lock designs. Borrowing such a design involves paying a royalty. Devising your own lock negates paying the royalty but involves many hours of research, design and testing.
The Ball Bearing Lock and the evolutionary caged Ball Bearing Lock comprise Spyderco’s attempt to develop a robust lock that meets martial blade craft (MBC) standards without being too bulky or hard to open or close. The hardened ball bearing, which is the main element, is allowed to rotate freely throughout its travel. Because it will always be in a different position, wear and tear is greatly reduced. Another benefit is the lock continually self-adjusts with each use. Because of its design, it can be operated on either side of the handle. An additional benefit is the lock is hard to accidentally disengage, which adds to its safety.
One look at the Ball Bearing Lock reveals the creative thought process required in its creation. “The design objective,” Glesser noted, “was to have a fairly simple, very strong, very reliable folding knife lock.”
How It Works
When the knife is closed, the ball bearing sits in a slightly curved channel. The channel provides the track for the ball bearing, which is pushed toward the blade due to pressure from a small shaft surrounded by a coil spring. Opposite the slightly curved ramp is the other side of the channel, which is formed by the knife blade.
As the blade pivots, the ball bearing pushes past the resistance of the closed position detent and follows a circular path until the knife approaches the open position. When the knife is nearly open, the blade channel drops away, allowing the ball bearing to push out into the channel formed at the top of the blade. Throughout the travel, the ball bearing rolls unobstructed with the outward spring pressure, providing the resistance to allow the blade to swing freely. In the open position, the pressure to close is surmounted by the ball bearing locking in place, on top by the liner and below by the blade. When the user removes the outward spring pressure by pulling back on the ball bearing, the blade can be pivoted to the closed position. The hardened ball bearing is unyielding under normal use. In the case of the newer models, a cage of a durable proprietary polymer blend surrounds and centers a smaller ball bearing. The lock action is the same.
The Knives
The Ball Bearing Lock debuted in 2002 on Spyderco’s World Trade Center (WTC) Knife, a non-profit fundraiser for victims of 9/11. On the WTC knife and the follow-up D’Allara knife, Spyderco used FRN (fiberglass-reinforced nylon) handles. The FRN made for a fairly thick, though comfortable, knife. Subsequent knives with the Ball Bearing Lock, including the Polliwog, Phoenix and Dodo, used such “flat” handle materials as stainless steel and G-10, which addressed the thickness concerns.
The first-generation version had a large, hardened ball bearing. Some seemed concerned it took two fingers to easily slide the ball bearing back in its channel. Eric Glesser, Sal’s son, designed the newer version, which addressed the concern by making the ball bearing smaller and enclosing it in the cage that has more grip and a much thinner profile.
The original Ball Bearing Lock was visibly different than any other lock, and some of the first models using it did not look traditional. Eric’s Polliwog design allows the ball-bearing channel to be open when the knife is closed, making it appear the ball bearing could slip out. Eric’s Dodo design features an ergonomic handle. It is scheduled to return in Spyderco’s carbon fiber and orange G-10 “Sprint Run” versions. The Phoenix, designed by knifemaker Howard Viele, also used the larger Ball Bearing Lock.
The P’Kal has the caged Ball Bearing Lock, The knife is based on an edged martial arts technique from the Philippines, which involves an “ice-pick” grip with corresponding downward pulling thrusts. Lock strength is crucial in knives used in the martial arts, so the P’Kal needs the MBC-rated lock.
The knife that has received the most attention of the caged series is the Manix 2. The original Manix knives featured a massive, heavy-duty design. By moving to the caged version of the Ball Bearing Lock, Spyderco changed the Manix in a positive way for everyday carry.
Use & Maintenance
The Ball Bearing Lock takes some getting used to if you are accustomed to LinerLocks™ or traditional lockbacks. Opening is the same as with other Spyderco knives via the blade hole. The difference is in closing. While it is possible to unlock the blade using one side of the lock, the best way is to pull the lock cage back with the thumb and index finger until it releases. Once the lock disengages, the blade can be pivoted closed. “People either like it or they don’t,” Sal observed. “They like the smooth action. They like the strong lock-up. We wanted it functional and easy to open, but I guess ‘not too easy’ would be one way of saying it.”
Among the advantages of having an exposed lock is ease of cleaning. “We usually just rinse them out and add a drop of oil here and there,” Sal said. “We’ve never had an issue with the spring. These coil springs go a long time, so really there is not much maintenance, other than occasional oil.”
The Ball Bearing Lock is one of many locks on the market. Others that share similar characteristics include the Bolt Action Lock designed by Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer Blackie Collins, and the Axis lock designed by Bill McHenry and Jason Williams and found on several Benchmade folders.
“I think all locks compete and have advantages and disadvantages, so I don’t know that one would be better than another,” Sal opined. “Most locks will either slide or rotate; I guess [the Ball Bearing Lock] would be considered sliding, although it is more rolling than sliding that is the action of the lock.”
Hence, the Ball Bearing Lock takes the contradictory rolling motion of a ball bearing and the sliding of a piston into a channel to lock two pieces of metal into one. It is a contradiction that works.—by David Jung
For more information on the Ball Bearing Lock and the Spyderco knives that have it, contact Spyderco, attn: J. Laituri, 820 Spyderco Way, Golden, CO 80403 800.525.7770 www.spyderco.com,[email protected].
Safety feature, bell and whistle, or what have you, the half stop stimulates lively discussion.
What is a Half Stop?
An old song includes the lyric, “It certainly is exquisite, but what in the dickens is it?”
The slip-joint knife version of the phrase can easily be attributed to the function, or lack thereof, surrounding the half stop, the flattened shaping of the tang that allows the blade to stop in mid deployment.
It’s a safety feature; it relieves pressure on the spring; it’s a mark of fit and finish that the best slip joint makers always include; or, just maybe, it’s like your appendix. It once had a job, but nobody really knows what that job was. It hangs around—and in some cases it has been removed.
What a Half Stop Does
According to Phil Gibbs of A.G. Russell Knives, “In a traditional slip-joint knife a half stop indicates the blade has a square tang instead of a conventional rounded one.” In Detail 2 is a diagram of a tang with a round end; in Detail 3 is one with a square end. (A.G. Russell Knives image)
“In a traditional slip-joint knife, a half stop indicates the blade has a square tang instead of a conventional rounded one,” explained Phil Gibbs, a veteran knife designer who has worked for A.G. Russell Knives for a number of years now.
“There are two reasons for a square tang. One is that a pause to move your fingers out of the way is desired halfway between open and closed. The second is that the knife has a flush end. Most issues of a square tang not working properly can be traced to poor spring/tang design and/or poor execution.”
There are plenty of ideas and opinions out there, and longtime custom knifemaker Gray Taylor admits the purpose of the half stop is something of a mystery to him.
“A half stop is just a low place in the back of the blade, a flat place that stops the blade and takes tension offthe spring,” he observed. “It just protects your spring from breaking, in my opinion, or it could be called a safety feature. Old guys have told me that if you have a whittler pattern, for example, with one blade on either end, you don’t want to open a knife halfway because you double the tension on the spring.”
The Case XX Vault Release Copperhead pattern, new for 2021, features a half stop. The knife is a member of the company’s Black Sycamore family. MSRP: $83.99. (Case image)
The History of the Flat Stop
The history of the half stop is as murky as its real role in the life of the slip joint. For sure, it has been around at least a couple of centuries, dating back at least to the knifemakers of old Sheffield—possibly much earlier.
Museum curator, researcher, and knife historian Pete Cohan points to traditional knives and modern multi-blades that have square backs; therefore, a half stop would have no purpose on them.
For Cohan, the “time factor” is relative, depending on how far back one would have to go.
“The amazing thing is that over a long period of time that feature was not present, and that is a fact,” he commented. “I was puzzled by this a long time ago and couldn’t find any indication of a patent associated with the half stop. At one point, I assumed it was a safety feature, and that was about the only thing I could come up with as to intent. I know similar things have been used in lock making, and that makes sense because you are pushing something to allow it to drop into a location to lock or unlock.”
Gibbs isn’t sure anybody knows the real origin of the half stop, but the earliest example he has seen through the years is on an 1800s barlow with a flush end made in Sheffield.
Veteran multi-blade slipjoint maker Bill Ruple has also seen the Sheffield connection but doesn’t know much more than that regarding the half stop’s history. Nonetheless, he does find function in its continuing existence.
“I have heard the half stop called a ‘safety catch,’ and my theory is that it was invented to be easier on the spring of a multi-blade knife,” Ruple offered. “The blade should literally jump into the half-open position and have no play or wiggle. If you can feel any wiggle or movement, it’s not right.”
At work here in his shop, Gray Taylor admits the purpose of the half stop is something of a mystery to him. “A half stop is just a low place in the back of the blade, a at place that stops the blade and takes tension of the spring,” he observed. “It just protects your spring from breaking, in my opinion, or it could be called a safety feature.” (Christy Harris image)
Half Stop Debate
For years, Ruple and A.G. Russell engaged in a congenial debate regarding the half stop. They never resolved their difference of opinion, and it remains one of Bill’s fondest memories of his relationship with the BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Fame® member.
“I personally use half stops on all my slip joint knives, unless the customer wants a full tang, and I have been doing it for 33 years,” Ruple commented. “The late Mr. Russell, however, would disagree with me on this one. A.G. was a good friend of mine for many years, and every time I saw him, he would give me a hard time about using half stops. He hated them.”
Gibbs acknowledges Russell’s disdain for the half stop and says it lies in a bad experience that occurred years ago.
“A.G. was not a fan of square-end tangs due to being severely cut by an extremely poorly designed and executed custom-made trapper,” Phil said. “He was cut because the maker apparently had no idea how to correctly design a pocketknife spring and tang to work well together. If your traditional knife works like a mousetrap, you are doing it wrong!”
Ruple is solid in his support for the half stop, relating, “Half stops are easier on springs, especially on rocker springs, which are springs with a blade on both ends. With the half stop, the spring is approximately the same, whether the blade is open, half open, or closed. With a full tang the spring has more pressure in the half-open position.”
Cohan concludes that the half stop has reached functional obsolescence. “Well, take a scout knife with four blades. Invariably, it has a half stop. Why? I can’t think of any reason they still make knives with half stops. Maybe it is more habit than requirement. My point is that the only answer I have ever come up with is the safety feature, and I’ve certainly never seen a patent on it.”
Some observers still assert that the half stop was a necessary revision to the tang, going so far as to state that it prevents the user from needing a pair of pliers to open a knife. Its absence, they say, would cause the spring to flex the entire distance of the end of the tang, and it functions to prevent the total failure of the spring, relieving pressure with the blade open that would otherwise fatigue and eventually compromise the spring’s integrity.
Gibbs scoffs and strongly disagrees.
“Converting to a square end tang in no way significantly reduces spring deflection,” he remarked. “It is the torque points of the tang that define the opening and closing force applied to the blade. A.G.’s tang designs employ a tangential radius to produce the round end of the tang joining the two torque points and resulting in zero increased spring force.
“Consequently,” Phil continued, “the round end tang and the square end tang would have identical opening and closing forces. Actually, with a square end tang the spring is flexed twice for each opening or closing, so I would surmise it increases stress to the spring. The only time there is any difference to the spring pressure on a square end tang compared to a round end tang is in the half-open position.”
Gray Taylor’s small sleeveboard lobster pattern sports six blades and/or tools: two spear-point pen blades, manicure blade, buttonhook, corkscrew, and pick. The sole-authorship piece is 2 3/16 inches closed. (Francesco Pachi image from the soon-to-be-released book Greatest Living Knifemakers by BLADE® editor Steve Shackleford https://www.gundigeststore.com/product/greatest-knifemakers/)
Making the Half Stop
Through the years, the inclusion of the half stop has probably remained fairly constant, and those who pay attention to it can’t say for sure that its use is waxing or waning. Gibbs recalls that the square end tang was traditionally found on barlows and Remington trappers, and some custom knifemakers continue to incorporate it today.
While the pros may differ in the usefulness of the half stop, they can agree that making a slip joint that includes a half stop adds little or no difficulty or cost to the construction process.
“I wouldn’t say it’s a lot harder,” Taylor commented. “You’ve got to make sure the half stop is positioned that when your blade stops at the half stop, it wants to be perpendicular to your knife. If your grind is off five degrees, the blade won’t sit straight. You’ve got to make it perpendicular to the back of the knife to look right. On the other hand, if you don’t have a half stop and cut a cam on the back of the blade, you’ve got to make sure the cam allows just the right tension. It takes practice. Throw a few blades away and you’ll catch on.”
Gibbs, who actually hails from Sheffield, England, considers the flush end knife more difficult to make than one with a square end tang, so the price might be somewhat higher due to the maker’s skill set. Throughout his career, he has had ample opportunities to assess thousands of knife designs.
“In my previous position as cutlery engineer at [the old] Camillus Cutlery Company, I designed several knives with square end tangs,” he related. “I considered it a required feature on some of the Remington Bullet knife reproductions we produced. We also made the Camillus Double Lock Back Trapper with square end tangs. It was not any harder to make at all.”
Gray Taylor said old-timers have told him that if you have a whittler pattern, for example, with one blade on either end, you don’t want to open the knife halfway because you double the tension on the spring. This I*XL George Wostenholm antique in ivory is an example of a three-blade whittler. (Pete Cohan image)
The Future of the Half Stop
Relevant or passé, here or gone, the half stop is a pocketknife feature that is likely to generate some lively discourse. While it may or may not add anything to the performance or durability of a knife, it’s healthy for the industry simply due to the fact that it gets people talking.
Thanksgiving cutters, Japanese style, from left: Victorinox SwissClassic Santoku, Case Santoku, Boker Forge Santoku Maple and Spyderco K08 Santoku.
Santokus are Thanksgiving cutters, Japanese style. A design that originated in the Land of the Rising Sun, the santoku is a specialized tool well suited to preparing holiday meals. From cutting meat to dicing veggies and cutting fruit for creative holiday salads and such, santokus are perfect for Gobbler Day.
Santokus have a wide blade sometimes with scallops, which are supposed to create less friction than a solid blade, a sheepfoot tip, and are lighter and thinner than a French or German chef’s knife. Their length runs between 5 and 8 inches. The Thanksgiving cutters do not have a bolster. They have a straight edge with no curve.
San-to-ku is Japanese for the three cutting tasks for which the knife is designed: slicing, dicing and mincing. It is a specialized knife that, in the Japanese view, is optimized for the three aforementioned tasks. The straight edge of a santoku does not allow for the rocking motion commonly used with a French or German chef’s knife.
Cuts are made straight down with little or no forward movement, almost a guillotine action, which, again in the Japanese view, allows slicing very thin pieces of whatever’s being cut with precision. The Thanksgiving cutters are not meant to be all-around kitchen knives. An all-around knife used to cut many things is not a Japanese concept. The Japanese chef will typically have a vast array of knives, each one designed for a specific function.
Japanese kitchen knives typically have a chisel grind, which also contributes to cutting very thin slices with precision, as you may have seen sushi chefs do. The chisel grind is optimal for slicing, say, very thin slices of turkey, with the caveat that there are left and right grinds. If you are right handed you’ll need a blade ground on the right side. The chisel grind doesn’t work well for cutting through thick media, such as roasts and ribs because the chisel grind—since the edge is off center—will cause the blade to cut off center, and to wander. Also, the thin edge of a Santoku should not be used to cut through joints or bones, or to disjoint, say, a chicken.
HAPPY MARRIAGE
One reason santokus make such good Thanksgiving cutters is their ability to cut small meat slivers. The Boker Forge Santoku Maple is a classic example.
With its hefty blade, full tang, nicely sculpted bolsters and maple scales, the Boker Forge Santoku Maple is a happy marriage of a classic santoku and a German or French chef’s knife. While it lacks the acute point of a chef’s knife, the slight point is usable. The edge does have somewhat of a curve, which allows the rocking motion Western-trained chefs, and many domestic home cooks, are accustomed to using. It is the only one of the four knives reviewed that I would use to cut through pork rib joints, chicken backs, etc. The Boker is almost a mini cleaver as well as being an excellent slicer. It is a handsome knife and comfortable for long periods of work.
Thanksgiving cutters must be adept at slicing veggies, and the Boker Forge Santoku Maple is that and more.
STURDY STUDY
With its walnut scales and full tang, the Case model is also a sturdy example of a Santoku. It has a barely perceptible curve to the edge and a scalloped blade. The Case looks more like a classic santoku than the Boker, but like the Boker has a thicker blade than a standard Japanese santoku. It felt solid in hand and while not as sculpted as the Boker, the traditional American handle was comfortable during extended use. The Case sliced, diced and minced as well as thin-bladed Santokus while giving the impression that it would be up for harder work if need be.
Thanksgiving cutters must be able to tackle meat slicing and the Case Santoku is a prime-cut cutter.
21st-CENTURY SHARP
Spyderco image
With its wide blade, classic Santoku profile, comfortable, molded grip and graceful overall appearance, the Spyderco K08 looks like a 21st-century interpretation of a classic—which is pretty much what it is. It is a very lightweight knife with an extremely thin blade, which is optimal for doing what a santoku is supposed to do. The Spyderco does have a slight curve toward the tip, which I think adds to its smooth lines. Since I am accustomed to using a French or German chef’s knife, the curve also made it easier for me to work my way through piles of squash and mushrooms, especially mushrooms, which I find hard to slice. The blade also made it easy to slice salmon smoothly and evenly.
ENTRY-LEVEL PRO
Victorinox image
Victorinox makes the knives The American Culinary Institute gives to its students: chef’s knives, paring knives, bread knives and, yes, santokus. Pro chef Shawn Carlson’s first professional knife roll contained only Victorinox knives. So, he was familiar with the Victorinox characteristics: thin profile, very sharp, fairly soft steel that requires frequent steeling but which comes back to a fine edge quickly, and which does not chip if dropped on a kitchen floor. It has the standard santoku shape: flat edge and sheepfoot tip rather than a curved profile and pointy tip. I missed a curved edge and had trouble adjusting to the flat straight edge. Shawn did not—again, a pro is a pro. It is an entry-level professional knife.
FLAIR GAME
If you enjoy cooking and take pleasure in using specialized tools, you’ll find a santoku a welcome addition to your quiver of Thanksgiving cutters—keeping in mind that a santoku is a specialized tool. If you like to keep things simple, an 8-inch chef’s knife and a 4-inch paring knife will do most any kitchen job—if not with the flair of a santoku.
Factory vs. Custom: A Knife Review Battle for the Ages
The blades of both the MOTAC by Doublestar and We The People by Brad Mock have somewhat of a triangular appearance. This provides a very sharp tip for fine work and a wider base for heavier jobs. I decided to start at the tip of each blade and work my way back.
Knife Test: Paper Cuts
The WTP sliced the copy paper great at the midway point to the tip, but the edge started to thicken toward the grip and was unsuited for slicing. The MOTAC was smooth and cut aggressively along the entire edge.
First up was a quick edge check by slicing 20-pound bond copy paper. Brad’s knife sliced great at the midway point to the tip. From midway to the start of the cutting edge it has a thicker edge geometry unsuited for slicing.
The Doublestar knife was smooth and aggressive along the whole edge, giving me nice slicing sounds.
Knife Test: Cardboard
It was time to thin out the cardboard pile. The MOTAC sliced smoothly and was very controllable. The thickness of the blade twisted the cardboard as I was cutting but did not affect the slices. We The People sliced very smoothly and cleanly. The handle shape made it easy to control.
My wife, Melissa, had purchased a new lounge chair. The box it came in had corner supports of compacted cardboard, solid and heavy duty—perfect for chopping. We The People chopped an average of 3/8 inch deep. The MOTAC averaged the same depth. This is some tough cutting medium, for sure.
Knife Test: Whittle
It was time to relax and whittle a spell. The MOTAC was very smooth at the pursuit. It gave great curly-cues and was extremely controllable. I really liked the deep choil.
We The People was choppy with the curly-cues. I had to increase the angle of my cut to dig deeper. The edge geometry was on the thicker side. The handle was very comfortable during use.
Knife Test: Rope Cut
Next up was the rope cut. I untwisted a 1-inch manila rope and used one of the 3/8-inch strands. We The People started off crunching until at 50 cuts the edge started to slide. The deep etching seemed to slow the blade down some. The handle was very comfortable during the push cuts. The MOTAC crunched to 135 cuts before the edge started to slide. The handle was slightly rough on my hand during the push cuts.
Knife Test: Brass Rod
Both knives flexed on the brass rod without chipping or dulling, an indication of good heat treatment on each.
To check the flexibility of the edge I employ the brass rod test. Both knives flexed without chipping or dulling, an indication of good heat treatment by both makers.
Bottom Line
I liked the feel of the We The People and the function of the Doublestar.
Suggestions
I would soften the handle edges on the MOTAC a little and decrease the edge angle on We The People.
Three blades with an Eastern design flair are zesty cutters
For many decades Asian knives, tools and swords languished in the cutlery industry, remembered most for blades brought back by U.S. service personnel who fought in the Pacific during World War II. Times have certainly changed, thanks in no small part to a highly accomplished custom knifemaker named Bob Lum.
Of Asian descent, Lum introduced the custom knife world to his “American” version of the Japanese tanto and leaf-shaped blades circa 1980. Through the balance of the ’80s, and later in the ’90s, Lum’s tanto design was rabidly embraced by a budding modern tactical knife crowd. The tanto has been a mainstay ever since. Other Asian blade styles, such as the bolo and kukri, have been embraced as well. My team and I look at three modern takes on the “Asian Equation” here and put these intriguing cutters through the paces.
CHAMP CHOPPER: Spyderco Lum Darn Dao
source: knifecenter.com
Designed by Lum before he passed away way too early in 2007, the Spyderco Lum Darn Dao is a full-tang Chinese dao-style knife. Overall length: 16.27 inches. The 10.63-inch blade is CPM 154 stainless steel with a flared tip and a swedge grind terminating at the clip on the spine. The 5.64-inch handle has a flared base and the black G-10 scales are ample, fully sculpted and highly polished. A handcrafted dark brown leather sheath with a thumb-break retention loop comes standard. Weight (minus the sheath): 17.89 ounces. MSRP: $649.95. This is a limited edition of one production run only.
The first thing we noticed about the Lum Darn Dao is that it’s not as cumbersome as it initially looks, and then we realized it’s just shy of 18 ounces, which is not that unwieldy as large knives go. The handle is an exercise in comfort—well sculpted all the way around.
The Lum Darn Dao has a deep V-grind, making it an excellent slicer. Sisal rope was a piece of cake. Full grinds like that of the Darn Dao slice and chop well, as the edge doesn’t encounter the hump of a ricasso when it goes about its work.
One inch seemed to be the Darn Dao’s magic number. Employing a basic hammer grip, we used the blade to cut through 1-inch sisal rope like it was butter. When we challenged it on an old phone book (remember those?) with diagonal full-force chops, it repeatedly sunk in an inch deep. For long-term use we’d opt for a rougher finish or texture on the G-10 grip, but all in all the Darn Dao chopped like a champ.
Specs: SPYDERCO LUM DARN DAO Blade length: 10.63 inches Blade steel: CPM 154 stainless Handle length: 5.64 inches Handle material: Sculpted G-10 Sheath: Leather belt carry Weight: 17.89 ounces Overall length: 16.27 inches Country of origin: Taiwan MSRP: $649.95
SHORT, WIDE HYBRID: SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout
SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout is a mid-size folder 7.375 inches open and 4.3 inches closed. Designed by custom knifemaker Kiku Matsuda of Japan, the 3-inch black-coated blade of CTS-XHP stainless steel is a hybrid of the tanto style with some interesting twists. The main grind is recurved and there is a swedge grind on the spine that ends in a harpoon dip. The blade opens via a kidney-shaped hole in the blade or by an optional gimped flipper. The black handle has sculpted G-10 scales over black stainless steel liners, and SOG’s XR pull-down slide release unlocks the blade. On the rear is a blade-tip-up pocket clip. Weight: 5.19 ounces. MSRP: $189.95.
SOG’s Kiku XR Blackout has a hybrid version of the American tanto blade. The recurved portion of the main grind does a great job trapping leather and rope, and the tip finishes the job as it is pulled through.
The Kiku XR Blackout’s blade is shorter and wider than the traditional tanto pattern. We tested it first on 1.5-inch-wide harness leather, executing straight cuts and pull-throughs. The modified edge cut very well, though we almost ran out of blade while pulling upward through the leather strip.
Rope was much easier. The recurve of the blade trapped the rope, and the secondary grind from the dividing line—or yokoke—to the tip finished the job. It should be noted not all tantos have a yokoke; some simply sweep through upward to the tip. The cuts on 3/8-inch rappelling rope were clean as a whistle, while the edge tended to shred thicker 1-inch sisal. The handle was plenty comfortable and added to our cutting pleasure.
SPECS: SOG KIKU XR BLACKOUT Blade length: 3 inches Blade steel: CTS XHP stainless Blade type: Hybrid American tanto Handle material: Sculpted G-10 Special features: Multiple blade grinds Carry: Pocket clip, blade tip upWeight: 5.19 ounces Closed length: 4.375 inches Country of origin: Taiwan MSRP: $210.95
2-HAND HOSS: The TOPS CUMA Kage
photo source: knifecenter.com
The TOPS CUMA Kage is a tour de force by martial arts guru Sijo Wayson Johnny Tsai. Overall length: 23.75 inches. The 15.5-inch blade of 1095 high carbon steel sports TOPS’ Black Traction Coating. The lengthy handle is 8.25 inches with Micarta scales sized for two-handed delivery. The blade is a hybrid straight sword pattern blended with 7 inches of kukri bulge at the tip to give it a bit of utility to go with its, ahem, badassery. It includes a full-length black Kydex sheath with a dangler/attachment ring. Weight: 31.5 ounces. MSRP: $360.
Using one hand or two, the author found the CUMA Kage cut brush equally well. However, as you might expect, you can take on much heavier tasks with it by using both hands.
To test the CUMA Kage for its utility billing, we took it outside for brush-clearing duty. We’ve always admired the kukri and have cleared an acre or two over the years with one, so this long send-up of the chopper intrigued me. We found out quickly we could use the CUMA Kage with one hand or two, which gives it a big leg up on its smaller cousin. The Micarta handle is well filled out and plenty grippy. One-handed we were able to easily whack through half-inch-thick green hardwood stalks and branches. Two-handed we sliced through stalks three-quarter of an inch with ease, and 1 inch as long as we had clearance to pull back for a full stroke. Though not the CUMA Kage’s original intent, it does have formidable utility.
Specs: TOPS CUMA KAGE Blade length: 15.5 inches Blade material: 1095 carbon steel Blade finish: Black Traction Coating Handle length: 8.25 inches Handle material: Micarta Special features: Kukri blade tip Sheath: Kydex w/leather dangler Weight: 31.5 ounces Overall length: 23.75 inches Country of origin: USA MSRP: $360
MELONIOUS ASSAULT
After testing the blades on a variety of fare, just for fun we took to the backyard to let them each have a go at a cantaloupe. Leading off with a reverse grip on the SOG Kiku XR, we stabbed the forlorn melon to the hilt. As stubby a version of the tanto as the Kiku XR’s blade may be, the cantaloupe’s pithy skin gave into the knife’s wishes quite easily.
The Kiku XR Blackout may have a shortened version of the American tanto blade style but it still likes to stab. Here it sinks to the hilt in the cantaloupe. The handle is chubby and comfortable, making the whole package work in harmony.
The author’s neighbor lowers the boom with the CUMA Kage. Short swords this size often are primarily geared toward combat, but the kukri-style tip gives the TOPS tool a welcome amount of utility.
Next up the TOPS CUMA Kage tried the task of halving the cantaloupe in one fell swoop, which we captured in burst mode on my neighbor’s IPhone. Mission accomplished. Finally, we used the Lum Darn Dao to “prepare the meal” by using the blade in quick, rapid-fire chops. The sword’s deep V-grind—not unlike that of a chef’s knife—performed admirably.
Like an oversized chef’s knife, the Lum Darn Dao deftly whacked the cantaloupe into chunks with speed and style.
BEASTS of the EAST
While we often think of knives and swords of an Asian design in the context of combat and martial arts, it’s easy to forget that many Eastern blades were used for everyday utility as well. The tanto was an everyday carry by the Samurai class in Japan, and men and women alike carried a smaller version, the kaiken, aka kwaiken. The chisel grind was not typical on tantos as we see on some of them today, but on knives for culinary purposes. The Japanese kiridashi, which is rapidly gaining a toehold in the cutlery world, was also chisel ground and used for wood carving and marking.
The wicked Indian/Nepalese Kukri was employed in combat, but is primarily a tool for clearing land and is used widely for bush whacking today. Even the Indonesian karambit was considered a working knife by its users. If nothing else, the distinctiveness of Asian cutlery design has added richly to our knowledge base of cutlery and given us a plethora of modern-day knives to explore.
Butterfly knives (aka “balisongs”) have evolved into meticulously crafted pieces of cutlery. Many of the best capitalize on state-of-the-art blade and handle materials coupled with progressive and modern designs that advance the genre toward the close of the century’s second decade.
Brous Blades B3
(All images by David Stanfield unless otherwise noted)
The B3 from Brous Blades is a modern butterfly knife with its stainless steel handles and D2 recurve tanto blade style. The handle interiors have cavities milled out to reduce weight. The knife has great action as a result, without the need to use bearings in the pivots. MSRP will vary depending on the finish, though this one is $320.
Bear Ops Bear Song VI
The hollow-ground 1095 carbon steel blade of the Bear Ops Bear Song VI has great edge geometry for all your cutting chores. A textured black epoxy coating guards against corrosion. MSRP: $174.99.
Mantis Knives Vuja De
The Vuja De from Mantis Knives marries the karambit’s large finger ring and hook-shaped blade with the free-swinging individual handles of a butterfly knife. The scales are textured black G-10 for both durability and grip quality. The blade is Mantis’ proprietary MV-1 stainless steel.
Emerson Knives Bali Commander & CQC7
The recurve clip-point blade of the Bali Commander (left) from Emerson Knives, Inc., is easily sharpened using a round profile sharpener to effectively capture the blade’s gentle sweeping curve.
The Emerson Bali CQC7 (right) in the background sports the chisel-ground blade like that of the iconic Emerson CQC7 tactical folder.
Attend a Flipping Competition at BLADE Show
Butterfly knives were a-fluttering during the balisong competition conducted by Blade HQ at last year’s BLADE Show.
