Military Knives: Historic Star-Spangled Steel

Few knives have served America more than those of the U.S. military.

Editor’s Note: This is the first of a two-part series on the most influential knives to serve the U.S. Military and explores some of the early influences on military knife design.

As what many call the greatest country in the history of countries approaches its 250th birthday, now’s a good time to salute some of the top knives that played pivotal military roles in the forging of the world beacon that is the United States of America.

It is, of course, impossible to recognize in one magazine story every single knife that played a crucial role in the many battles of the wars fought by the USA. However, with the help of some of the knife industry’s leading military authorities—including several of whom have seen the elephant in service to our nation—BLADE® will endeavor to touch on some of the more consequential knives of U.S. military history.

Before embarking on such a quest, the first task is to identify a basic group of the most indispensable knife types over two-and-a-half centuries of American land warfare. At the risk of omitting one or more, five stand out: bayonet, all-purpose utility fixed blade and/or bowie, dagger, machete/chopper and utility folder.

Michael Price recognized that to create a viable knife for self-defense and combat, form must follow function. His solution was to use the full-tang construction method, here on one of his classic mid-19th-century daggers. (Image courtesy of Louis Chow)
Michael Price recognized that to create a viable knife for self-defense and combat, form must follow function. His solution was to use the full-tang construction method, here on one of his classic mid-19th-century daggers. (Image courtesy of Louis Chow)

“These encapsulate everything that an infantryman used during the 250-year history of our country,” noted Louis Chow, a 24-year U.S. Army veteran who retired with the rank of major and is one of the leading collectors of the knives of BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Bob Loveless. “The bayonet, of course, from the get-go, from the Revolution to today.”

Louis indicated the all-purpose utility fixed blade/bowie could include privately purchased knives such as the Randall Model 1 and, of course, double-guard bowie types like the USMC fighting utility knife, aka the Ka-Bar. He pointed to the mid-19th-century designs of Michael Price as highly influential on daggers through to today, and machetes such as those made by Collins used in the Spanish-American War and before to Vietnam as vital to U.S. war efforts. Though pocketknives were indeed carried by American patriots during the Revolutionary War, the utility folders to which Louis referred are more of the modern Leatherman/Gerber multi-tool type, not to mention the Buck 110, Al Mar SERE, CRKT M-16 and others. As Louis noted, almost every soldier, male or female, in the modern military carries a multi-tool folder.

Many knife enthusiasts know that bayonets are rarely, if ever, used in combat today, nor have they been for well over a century. “It’s hard to actually find someone who used one in combat,” Louis said. Probably the most legendary American bayonet charge was the eminently successful one by Union forces led by Col. Joshua Chamberlain against Confederate troops down a hill called Little Round Top, a major turning point in the Battle of Gettysburg and, of course, the entire Civil War. Ironically, as Louis noted, “the most famous bayonet charge of all was the last one.”

While bayonets have rarely been used in American combat for many decades, that does not mean they do not remain significant teaching tools in today’s U.S. military. “When I was a company commander in 1990, we trained with the bayonet,” Louis recalled. “There are established bayonet courses on every installation, such as Fort Hood in Texas and Fort Benning in Georgia, and we would go there and train with the bayonet.” The rifles and bayonets have changed over the years but the bayonet training techniques remain the same.
Throughout U.S. and nearly all other nations’ histories, governments have been responsible for the issuance of combat knives in the form of bayonets for their infantry fighting forces. During World War II, the USA issued all-purpose fighters and utility knives to many soldiers, sailors and airmen. However, as Louis noted, privately purchased edged tools and weapons have always been the mainstay of our servicemen. During the earliest American conflicts, including the Revolutionary through the Civil Wars, kitchen, utility, farrier-forged and European-imported cutlery were the sidearms of the multitude of militiamen and patriotic volunteers.

The original Applegate-Fairbairn Folder was a collaboration between Col. Rex Applegate and knifemakers Bill Harsey and Butch Vallotton. Harsey stated that a Gerber official said the Army ordered 50,000 of the knife at one time for the troops. At bottom is the original prototype and at top is a first-production Gerber version autographed by Applegate. (From the collection of Michael Janich)
The original Applegate-Fairbairn Folder was a collaboration between Col. Rex Applegate and knifemakers Bill Harsey and Butch Vallotton. Harsey stated that a Gerber official said the Army ordered 50,000 of the knife at one time for the troops. At bottom is the original prototype and at top is a first-production Gerber version autographed by Applegate. (From the collection of Michael Janich)

The knife carried and made famous by Cutlery Hall-of-Famer James Bowie in the 1820s and 1830s was copied in various forms by makers worldwide and served as inspiration to any number of fixed blades carried in the U.S. military. Another large fixed blade that met with success in military circles was the Rifleman’s Knife made by the Ames Mfg. Co. circa 1860. Ames also made the Dahlgren Bowie Bayonet around the same time. Collins & Co. made a variety of bowies/machetes, the most famous probably being the No. 18, also incorrectly called the V-44 by many (according to D.E. Henry in his book Collins Machetes and Bowies 1845-1865, V-44 was the real name of a 1944 Case Survival Knife, not the No. 18).

Generational Blades

Circa the mid-19th century, Michael Price was considered one of the premier cutlers in the western United States. He was best known for exquisite presentation knives that incorporated marine ivory and a variety of beautiful shells. However, as Louis wrote, to create a viable knife for self-defense and combat, Price recognized that form must follow function. His solution was to use the full-tang construction method. And for a century and a half, some of the most notable American cutlers adopted the full-tang method that significantly improved a knife’s dependability and durability.

Early in 20th-century Michigan, Cutlery Hall-of-Famer William Scagel began forging axes and knives of various sizes and styles. He made most of his utility, hunting and bowie knives via the hidden-tang method. Though some of his combat knives were also hidden tang, many others employed the full-tang method.

“It was purported that the Scagel hidden-tang fighters with stacked leather washers were made for the European theater, while the full-tang fighters with wood-slab handles were made for the Pacific theater,” Louis wrote. “It was believed that stacked leather washers would be too susceptible to the humidity, high temperatures and salty air” of the applicable Pacific region. As a testament to Scagel’s outstanding craftsmanship and exceptional design, many of his fighters survived the war in good condition.

William Scagel’s hidden-tang fighters with stacked leather washers reportedly were made for the European theater during World War II, while the full-tang wood-slab fighters were made for the Pacific. The stacked leather washers were thought to be too susceptible to the humidity, high temperatures and salty air of the applicable Pacific region. (Image courtesy of Louis Chow)
William Scagel’s hidden-tang fighters with stacked leather washers reportedly were made for the European theater during World War II, while the full-tang wood-slab fighters were made for the Pacific. The stacked leather washers were thought to be too susceptible to the humidity, high temperatures and salty air of the applicable Pacific region. (Image courtesy of Louis Chow)

In 1937, Cutlery Hall-of-Famer W.D. “Bo” Randall observed an older man scraping the bottom of a boat with a knife that appeared undamaged by the abuse. Intrigued by the improvised tool, Bo purchased it from the owner and contacted its maker, who just so happened to be Scagel. Randall eventually became Scagel’s student and soon opened his own shop, making Scagel-style knives.

“At the onset of World War II, Randall designed and produced some of the most recognizable combat knives ever made,” Louis stated. “Nonetheless, all were made with the hidden-tang method. It was not until the early 1960s that Randall introduced the full-tang Model 14-Attack and the Model 15-Airman combat knives.”
Continuing the generational theme, Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Bob Loveless read a magazine article about Randall knives in 1953. He corresponded with Bo and made his interpretations of Randall knives before experimenting with and then making his own full-tang models.

From the mid-1960s through the early ’70s, Loveless accepted many orders from service members awaiting assignment to Vietnam. He also received bulk orders from units stationed there. One bulk order in early March 1967 from a unit commander in the 1st Cavalry Division was for 37 fighting knives.

“The unit commander and his troopers were stationed in Saigon and were supporting Operation Junction City, one of the largest airmobile operations in the war,” Louis wrote. “As a patriot and former veteran himself, Loveless would temporarily halt all other orders and place top priority on knives destined for combat. As for those 37 fighters, he worked day and night and completed the order in less than a month. For the next four decades, the Loveless full-tang designs were copied and reinterpreted by countless knifemakers and knife companies in the United States and abroad.”

In addition to the foregoing cutlery legends, the full-tang method was also preferred by many other U.S. World War II knifemakers. Among them: Alfred Bimson, John Ek, Taylor Huff, A.R. Kephart, Kennedy Arms, Bob Riggs, Ernest Warther and Cutlery Hall-of-Famer M.H. Cole. Cole also authored the comprehensive U.S. Military Knives, Bayonets & Machetes series of books and has been dubbed the “Sage of Military Knives” by Cutlery Hall-of-Famer Bruce Voyles. Continuing Cole’s legacy is knifemaker/author Michael Silvey through his reproductions of Cole’s designs and his lavishly illustrated books on the knives of the United States military in World War II and Vietnam, and other works.

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First Look: Imarku 9-Piece Knife Block Set With Sharpener

New Kitchen Knife Set From Imarku Looks Spectacular And Is Packed With Features That Any Home Chef Would Want.

The new 9-piece knife set from Imarku has everything a home cook could ask for. The most noticeable thing about it is the color and design. The rich blue hue of the knife block is complemented by the acrylic window that lets you look inside and see the knives while they’re inside the block.

Imarku has made a comprehensive knife set with this new release. The blades are made from high-carbon Japanese stainless steel, and the flat-edge knives are sharpened to a 16-degree edge with a Rockwell hardness of 57-59 HRC.

The set includes an 8.5-inch chef’s knife, 8.5-inch bread knife, 8-inch slicing knife, 7.5-inch Santoku, 6-inch boning knife, 5-inch utility knife, 3.5-inch paring knife, and a honing rod. The ergonomic pakkawood handle and tapered bolsters allow for an easy, firm grip when slicing and matches the bright blue of the solid walnut block. 

This knife set is not only an excellent set of tools for your kitchen, but it’s also a great conversation piece and will add a bright splash of color to any countertop.

MSRP: $599.99

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New Knives December 2025

If it needs cutting, do it in style with one of these gems.

Of any class of knife, there’s nothing handier than an EDC blade. From mending hoses to knocking down cardboard boxes and prying open stuck latches, these knives trim down daily chores. Though what exactly defines an EDC knife? Honestly, anything could be an everyday carry if you simply carry it every day. And while a few of our new knife picks aren’t precisely what you call your typical EDC, they’re certainly worthy of keeping at hand to cut into your workload.

Brian Milinski Paratrooper

Brian Milinski Paratrooper

BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: Dragonskin damascus by Bertie Rietveld
BLADE GRIND: Hollow
BLADE FINISH: Nitre salt blued
SCALES: Carbon fiber
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,650
MAKER: Brian Milinski, mrknives.com (Felipe Silva image)


Buck Knives 791 Range Elite

Buck Knives 791 Range Elite

KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3 3/8”
BLADE STEEL: MagnaCut stainless
BLADE GRIND: High-panel flat
BLADE OPENER: Thumb stud
HANDLE MATERIAL: Anodized aluminum
LINERS: Tumble-polished stainless
LOCK: Crossbar
POCKET CLIP: Deep carry, reversible
WEIGHT: 3.3 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
SPECIAL FEATURES: Spine gimping
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $275
COMPANY: Buck Knives, buckknives.com


Sean Alonzo Dalisay 2.8 Cigar Cutter

Sean Alonzo Dalisay 2.8 Cigar Cutter

BLADE LENGTH: 2.8”
BLADE MATERIAL: Yggdrasil pattern damascus by Damasteel
BLADE GRIND: Single bevel
SCALES: Mammoth tusk ivory
BOLSTER: Black burlap Micarta®
KNIFE TO KNOW: Pivot collar, inlay and thumb screws are mammoth ivory; zirconium pivot and backspacer
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $4,200
MAKER: Sean Alonzo, baleteblades.shop (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Brion Tomberlin Personal Carry Fighter

Brion Tomberlin Personal Carry Fighter

BLADE LENGTH: 4.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Ironwood
GUARD: 416 stainless steel
OVERALL LENGTH: 9.5”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $650
KNIFE TO KNOW: Brion Tomberlin is a master smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER: Brion Tomberlin (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Craig Brewer Slipjoint

Craig Brewer Slipjoint

BLADE LENGTH: 2.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: Mike Norris stainless damascus in a Frequency pattern
BLADE GRIND: Hollow
SCALES: Mammoth ivory
CLOSED LENGTH: 3”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,100
KNIFE TO KNOW: Craig Brewer is an apprentice smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER: Craig Brewer (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Quintin T. Hardtner IV Take-Down Frame-Handle Bowie

Quintin T. Hardtner IV Take-Down Frame-Handle Bowie

BLADE LENGTH: 8.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: Feather damascus of 1084 carbon and 15N20 nickel-alloy steels
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Curly koa
FURNITURE MATERIAL: Same as blade
SPACERS: Nickel silver
OVERALL LENGTH: 13.5”
KNIFE TO KNOW: Won Best Fixed Blade and Best of Show at the 2025 Louisiana Knife Show
SHEATH: Leather; custom made by Bob Bobbitt
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $3,000
MAKER: Quintin T. Hardtner IV (Jocelyn Frasier image)


Spartan Blades Soter Carbon Fiber Edition

Spartan Blades Soter Carbon Fiber Edition

KNIFE TYPE: EDC folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE STEEL: CPM S35VN stainless
ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 58-60 HRC
BLADE FINISH: Satin
HANDLE MATERIAL: Carbon fiber/G-10 composite
LOCK: RaceLock™
POCKET CLIP: Machined from one piece of steel, PVD-coated in flat dark earth
WEIGHT: 3.9 ozs.
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $310
KNIFE TO KNOW: Soter is the Greek mythological figure known as the “protector”
COMPANY: Spartan Blades, spartanbladesusa.com


Tory Utt Arkansas Hunter

Tory Utt Arkansas Hunter

KNIFE TYPE: Slipjoint
BLADE LENGTH: 4”
BLADE MATERIAL: Feather pattern damascus forged by Bill Poor
BLADE GRIND: Flat
BLADE PATTERN: Clip point
HANDLE FRAME: Nickel silver
SCALES: Westinghouse Micarta®
SHIELD: Mother-of-pearl
BOLSTERS: Topo pattern damascus forged by Tory Utt
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.25”
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,300 range
KNIFE TO KNOW: Tory Utt has been making knives for 12 years
MAKER: Tory Utt, sacredbearknives.com (SharpByCoop image)


Mace Vitale Bowie

Mace Vitale Bowie

BLADE LENGTH: 12.5”
BLADE MATERIAL: W2 tool steel w/hamon
BLADE GRIND: Flat
SCALES: Tasmanian blackwood
GUARD & FERRULE: Mild steel
OVERALL LENGTH: 17.5”
KNIFE TO KNOW: The design is inspired by early American knives; Mace Vitale is a journeyman smith in the American Bladesmith Society
MAKER’S PRICE FOR A SIMILAR KNIFE: $1,750
MAKER: Mace Vitale (SharpByCoop image)


Bear & Son Cutlery 112A 4” Stainless Steel Framelock

Bear & Son Cutlery 112A 4” Stainless Steel Framelock

BLADE LENGTH: 2 7/8”
BLADE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud
OPENING MECHANISM: Assisted
HANDLE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
LOCK: Framelock
POCKET CLIP: Yes
WEIGHT: 3.8 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 3¾”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA
MSRP: $59.99
COMPANY: Bear & Son Cutlery, bearandsoncutlery.com


Camillus Explorer

Camillus Explorer


BLADE LENGTH: 3”
BLADE STEEL: 3Cr13 stainless
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
HANDLE MATERIAL: Nylon glass fiber
LOCK: Crossbar
WEIGHT: 3 3/8 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 4.5”
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Offshore
MSRP: $29.99
COMPANY: Camillus, camillusknives.com


5.11 Pryme Double Duty DP

5.11  Pryme Double Duty DP

KNIFE TYPE: Folder
BLADE LENGTH: 3.25”
BLADE MATERIAL: D2 tool steel
BLADE GRIND: Compound
BLADE PATTERN: Drop point
BLADE OPENERS: Flipper and thumb stud
HANDLE MATERIAL: G-10 on mark side/420J2 stainless on lock side
BOLSTER MATERIAL: 420J2
LOCK: Framelock
POCKET CLIP: Steel, deep carry, reversible
WEIGHT: 5.3 ozs.
CLOSED LENGTH: 5.125”
SPECIAL FEATURES: Built-in, full-handle-length pry tool/screwdriver/optic
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China
MSRP: $85
CONTACT: 5.11, 5.11tactical.com

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Dagger Design: Fundamentals Of Dagger Construction

From maintaining symmetry to adding fullers, we break down the intricate process of making a dagger design into a physical knife.

A dagger is not a kitchen knife in disguise. It is a purpose-built instrument of thrust and that purpose demands precision at every stage of construction. Small errors that might pass unnoticed in a hunter or utility knife compound on the exacting canvas of the dagger. A centerline that begins drifting by a fraction at the ricasso becomes an off-center tip, an uncentered bevel a blade that twists, the result a thrust off target. The difference between success and failure is geometry, and nowhere does geometry matter more than in the making of a dagger.

The process begins with detailed design and planning. The execution begins with precise layout. The central axis is the spine on which the whole piece will rest, and without it symmetry is impossible—the whole blade will stand or fall on getting this right. There are some tricks that will help ensure success.

Dagger Half Template

The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.
The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.

Once you have determined the blade profile, preferably in some physical form like a drawing, make a template so it can be accurately transferred to steel. Here’s the thing, though: you only need half. A template representing only half of the blade profile will allow you to use it for each edge, ensuring perfect symmetry. Include the tang on your profile, not just the blade.

If you’re careful, your half template can be held on your blade stock aligned on a scribed center line and scribed on each side. If you’re less careful, oversize your blade stock and template so you can drill holes for alignment pins in the end of each that is outside the final profile. Using these holes to align the half template for marking each edge is the most precise way to lay out a symmetrical profile. If the stock is oversized, you’ll grind off the alignment holes when grinding the profile.

Planning Plunge Lines

Once you’ve accurately laid the profile out on the blade stock, take the time to scribe in the planned plunge lines on the blade flats and the edge. Sweeping, curved plunges are more visually appealing and careful layout will help ensure that your vision becomes reality. These lines are not decorative. They are the stops, targets if you will, that prevent the grind from slowly creeping toward the ricasso with each grinding pass.

Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.
Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.

When it comes to grinding these sweeping plunges, hollow grinding on a wheel is easier than flat grinding on a platen—it’s easier to grind a curve with a curve—but by all means use a flat platen if that’s what you have. If you’re already grinding on a wheel, a 1-inch-wide wheel with a 1-inch belt will be an easier path to success than the standard 2-inch wheel and belt.

Sweeping plunges also will result in a thicker edge toward the ricasso. This is fine—you shouldn’t try to sharpen this part as doing so most likely will ruin all your careful design work. Will the unsharpened part of the edge impair the stabbing function? Perhaps, but only a little. Though it pains a serious knife person to admit it, most handmade modern daggers are for show. In most societies stabbing others is frowned on, and if you’re going to all this effort, choosing to focus on aesthetics is a good bet. However, if your dagger will be deployed in combat, ignore the aesthetics, grind sharper plunges and take the edge all the way to the ricasso.

Dagger Grinding And Stock Removal

Grinding and stock removal are the way to go for daggers. This is admittedly a hot take but in a game where winning is determined by symmetry, forging introduces unnecessary variables and distorts the base stock, making accurate layout more complicated—not impossible, just not as easy. There is little to gain by forging unless the steel itself or the situation requires it, or if you simply like doing it that way. If you want a damascus pattern to taper toward the tip, or if you’re making a dagger for American Bladesmith Society testing, by all means forge. It’s an impressive skill set. If you want to make the best dagger possible with an eye toward efficiency, and thereby your profit margins, grind it. Stock removal is the more predictable path, and predictability is the soul of symmetry. Every forged blade is a stock removal blade before it’s completed; don’t get hung up on this unless you have reason to.

Delicacy Of The Dagger Tip

Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.
Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.

Where the mass of the ricasso anchors the entire weapon and provides strength at the critical juncture of guard and tang, the tip, by contrast, demands delicacy. Once your profile is carefully ground to shape and you turn to grinding the bevels, grind the tip first. More specifically, grind it at a steeper angle than you plan for the main bevels, and try not to cross the centerline even at that obtuse degree, except at the very end. After that, leave it alone.

Grind the main bevels like you normally would, paying perhaps more attention than usual to your scribed lines, and try to avoid that last inch toward the tip until everything else is pretty much done. This seems a bit odd at first, but consider that the final inch must maintain its thickness in order to be strong enough to pierce effectively without deformation or fracture. If you do it right, you’ll end up with a bevel at the transition. Some makers polish the transition so it remains crisp, while others blend it smooth while polishing. Either way, it should be deliberate. Neglect this and the point will be too thin.

When To Add Fullers

Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.
Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.

Fullers, if they are to be included, should be cut early while the blank still has parallel flats. Attempting them later invites misalignment, or at the least inserts a potentially unnecessary level of difficulty. Better machinists than this writer/dagger enthusiast will likely have little difficulty either way, but life has enough complications of its own without inviting them into play.

Dagger Balance

Balance matters as much as steel. A well-made dagger should balance at or just ahead of the guard, a neutral point where the hand feels neither burdened nor abandoned. This can be tested with nothing more elaborate than a rod beneath the mostly assembled knife, shifting it until it rests level. It’s really just as easy to adjust weight distribution by feel, removing or adding weight to the component parts until it feels right. Don’t forget to consider the added weight of your epoxy. When balance is right, the blade becomes an extension of the wrist, alive and responsive.

Tang & Spacers

How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.
How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.

Even the tang deserves forethought. When profiling the blade blank, leaving the tang longer than necessary provides room for correction and fitting, and a threaded end can serve as both a work-holding aid during construction and a permanent anchor if a pommel or nut will close the assembly.

Spacers, fitted between guard and handle and again between handle and pommel, make alignment easier and allow pins to register each component precisely during glue-up. They’re also relatively easy targets for weight adjustment when working on overall balance. These details are seldom glamorous but are what let the final assembly come together without struggle.

Embellishments

What results from this attention is not decoration but readiness. The embellishments will come later… the fluted handles and twisted wires and all the flourishes that mark the master’s hand. But none of that matters if the design is poor, the execution haphazard, the details unconsidered.

More On Daggers:

Taking The Foot Path: Top Sheepsfoot Knives

Three unique sheepsfoot blades for top pocket performance.

A sheepsfoot blade hides its edge behind a quiet profile. It slices clean and never wanders. These three nowhere-near-a-kind blades remind you why the shape keeps earning loyal fans.

Sheepsfoot Advantage

A sheepsfoot blade shape delivers straight, predictable cuts without risk of a piercing tip. The sheepsfoot blade gets its name from its shape, which resembles a sheep’s hoof. The edge runs flat so the user can push through rope, cardboard and fabric with complete control. The dropped, rounded nose keeps the point out of the work, which helps during rescue tasks and close-quarters cutting. The shape shines in utility roles, but it trades away penetration and fine-tip detail work. Users who need a safe, steady cutter reach for a sheepsfoot. Users who need a sharp, probing point usually look elsewhere.

Reiff Knives Circadia

Taking it into the woods, the author found the Reiff Knives Circadian Sheepsfoot performed like a larger knife due to the full-sized handle and wide blade. The perfect tool for both the camp and kitchen.
Taking it into the woods, the author found the Reiff Knives Circadian Sheepsfoot performed like a larger knife due to the full-sized handle and wide blade. The perfect tool for both the camp and kitchen.

Reiff Knives built its reputation on hard-use tools designed for people who work and live outdoors. The Circadian Sheepsfoot fits that mission cleanly. Reiff Knives is a family run and veteran-owned company, and it’s carved out a niche by blending modern steels with field-driven ergonomics. Its knives aren’t showpieces—they’re workhorses built to survive real use in the backcountry, the shop or the boat. The Circadian line has been one of the company’s best sellers, and the sheepsfoot variant pushes the platform into pure utility.

The Circadian Sheepsfoot features a compact EDC profile, measuring roughly 7 inches in overall length, depending on the sheath and scale configuration. The blade measures about 3 inches and is cut from CPM MagnaCut, a steel chosen for its balance of toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance—a smart match for a knife meant to live outdoors. Reiff offers the blade in stonewash or black DLC, both finishes built for durability and low glare. The 90-degree spine is sharp enough to spark from a ferro rod, adding value for fieldcraft.

Handle scales are available in canvas Micarta, colored black or green depending on the model. The geometry favors control: a deep index cut, a neutral mid-section and a palm swell that locks the hand without forcing a grip. It’s a compact knife that still feels anchored during push cuts, rope work and fine carving.

Reiff pairs the Circadian Sheepsfoot with a Kydex sheath, sold in multiple colors and patterns, including black, OD green and multicam. Reiff designed the sheath for belt or pack-strap carry with enough retention for active movement. It’s an EDC fixed blade—small enough for daily tasks and tough enough for field abuse.

Circadian Sheepsfoot Specs
Overall Length: 7.25”
Blade Length: 3.28”
Blade Thickness: 0.120
Steel: CPM-MagnaCut Stainless
Finish: Stonewash
Weight: 4.10 oz.
Scales: OD Green Canvas Micarta
Sheath: Ambidextrous Universal Kydex with Tek-Lok
Made in the U.S.A.
MSRP: $285

Circadian Performance

Sheepsfoot blades excel in the kitchen, similar to a santoku knife with a flat blade. The Circadian slices with authority, performing pull slices with the tip.
Sheepsfoot blades excel in the kitchen, similar to a santoku knife with a flat blade. The Circadian slices with authority, performing pull slices with the tip.

Even though these three knives are in the EDC realm, the Circadian Sheepsfoot feels like the big brother. I have to give comfort and solidness to it. The knife has the heft to baton wood for the dry parts, and the edge geometry to feather wood like an ordained bushcraft knife. On top of that, the 90-degree spine showered sparks on every part, even the jimping.

It acts like a mini santoku knife in the woods, cabin and home kitchen. It performs draw cuts like a champ on food, cardboard, cordage, paper and leather. I made it my woods sheepsfoot blade and relied on it solo and teamed up with a chopper/splitter in the winter months. I touched up the MagnaCut blade once while testing it, and it wasn’t a chore, because I never let it get dull enough to need the sharpening stone.

I added an UltiClip to the sheath, carried it in my utility pocket and called it good!
The Circadian Sheepsfoot delivers reliable cutting performance for those who need a dependable tool that never falters. It’s simple, rugged and purpose-driven—exactly what Reiff Knives promises with every tool they ship!

Bear & Son Culery Large Sheepfoot Barlow

Bear & Son blends tradition with Alabama craftsmanship in the Large Sheepfoot Barlow, featuring simple mechanics and quality materials. Even living up to modern performance expectations, the author found the stag handle gave it “old-timey” appeal.
Bear & Son blends tradition with Alabama craftsmanship in the Large Sheepfoot Barlow, featuring simple mechanics and quality materials. Even living up to modern performance expectations, the author found the stag handle gave it “old-timey” appeal.

Bear & Son Cutlery operates out of Jacksonville, Alabama, where it machines, grinds, assembles and sharpens every knife under one roof. That full-control approach gives its traditional patterns a level of consistency collectors and working users both appreciate. The Large Sheepfoot Barlow sits squarely in that tradition. It blends a classic American pattern with modern steel choices and multiple handle options, giving the user a pocket tool that feels familiar but performs with modern reliability.

The knife measures 7 inches in overall length and 4 inches closed. Bear & Son fits the frame with a 2.75-inch sheepsfoot blade cut from stainless steel. The second blade mirrors a traditional Barlow layout, providing a backup edge for finer work. The sheepsfoot profile drives straight cuts through rope, cardboard and daily tasks with predictable control. The company shapes the spine with a clean, squared feel, which helps during controlled push cuts and scraping chores.

Handle options include rosewood, Genuine India Stag Bone and white smooth bone. Each material gives the knife a different personality: rosewood for warmth, stag for texture and smooth bone for a classic pocket-worn look. Nickel-silver bolsters anchor the Barlow silhouette and add durability at the pivot.

The knife is a slipjoint, so it stays legal in most jurisdictions and fits the traditional-carry crowd. Bear & Son ships it without a sheath, as expected for a pocket Barlow. The weight lands at 3.7 ounces, which keeps it planted in the pocket without feeling bulky.

2-Blade Barlow Sheepsfoot
Overall Length: 7”
Blade Length: 3”
Closed: 4”
Blade Thickness: 0.90″
Steel: Stainless
Finish: Satin
Weight: 2.9 oz.
Scales: Rosewood, Genuine India Stag Bone, White Smooth Bone
Sheath: None
Made in the U.S.A.
MSRP: $79

Large Sheepfoot Barlow Performance

The Sheepfoot Barlow's large blade cut through leather and nylon webbing easily. Meanwhile, the comfortable, tapered handle made pull slicing smooth.
The Sheepfoot Barlow’s large blade cut through leather and nylon webbing easily. Meanwhile, the comfortable, tapered handle made pull slicing smooth.

The Large Sheepfoot Barlow had some weight and an old-timey impression. It made me feel classy when I used it and it sliced like a champ. Its solid feel was substantial, though I took extra care when pulling the blades out. The liners inside the handles were sharp—near paper-cut sharp. But I didn’t draw blood when I opened it. They were just rough to the touch.

Both blades were wicked sharp. The smaller blade had a more awl-like shape and was thick enough to use as one. Or it could be your up-close, carving-in-tight-places blade. Pick your poison. The main blade excels at slicing rope, and the sharp tip makes short work of leather. What surprised me most was how detailed the sheepsfoot was mincing fresh garlic in the kitchen. Naturally, the stainless steel remained worry-free around moisture.

Bear & Son continues to push traditional patterns forward while keeping the work in Alabama. The Large Sheepfoot Barlow reflects that mission: simple mechanics, honest materials and a pattern that earned its place over generations.

Tactile Knife Co. Redhawk

Kept to the company’s tight tolerances, the Tactile Knife Co. Redhawk is a versatile cutter designed for everyday use—indoors or outdoors. The author found the knife’s design and build quality impeccable.
Kept to the company’s tight tolerances, the Tactile Knife Co. Redhawk is a versatile cutter designed for everyday use—indoors or outdoors. The author found the knife’s design and build quality impeccable.

The Redhawk marks Tactile Knife Co.’s push into the compact fixed-blade EDC space, and it carries the same machining pedigree that put the Dallas-based shop on the map. Tactile started as a precision pen company before expanding into knives, but its through-line never changed: tight tolerances, clean lines and American-made materials. Its shop in Texas machines nearly every component in-house, and the company leans hard into heirloom-grade build quality. The Redhawk reflects that ethos—simple, durable and purpose-driven.

Taylor Martin created the Redhawk after years of carrying fixed blades that fell short. It’s a compact knife punching above its size without feeling delicate. It measures just under 7 inches in overall length (6.9 inches OAL) with a 2.75- or 3-inch blade, depending on the variant. The blade, cut from CPM MagnaCut, is a steel chosen for its balance of toughness, edge retention and corrosion resistance. Its reverse tanto/modified sheepsfoot profile gives it a tall cutting surface and a fine, workable tip. Blade stock runs 0.12-inch, keeping it slicey without feeling thin.

Handle scales are made of Micarta and come in multiple colors. Tactile shaped them with a scalloped pinch-grip area for control during fine work and heavy cuts using a chest-lever grip. Finish options include stonewashed, tumbled Cerakote and black Cerakote, depending on the retailer. The spine is ground clean and crisp, suitable for scraping tinder or striking a ferro rod. Tactile doesn’t explicitly market it as a 90-degree spine, but it behaves like one in use.

The knife ships with either a Kydex or leather sheath, both set up for pocket carry with a clip, making it a true EDC fixed blade rather than a belt-only option.

Redhawk Specs
Designer: Taylor Martin
Overall Length: 6.9”
Blade Length: 2.75”
Blade Thickness: 0.120
Steel: CPM-MagnaCut Stainless
Finish: Cerakote (black)
Weight: 3.16 oz.
Scales: 3D Contoured Micarta Handles (black)
Sheath: Kydex Discreet Carry Concepts Sheath Clip
Made in the U.S.A.
MSRP: $249

Redhawk Performance

The Redhawk was a woods camp breakfast companion during the author’s testing. The sheepsfoot both helped with fire, food prep and eating.
The Redhawk was a woods camp breakfast companion during the author’s testing. The sheepsfoot both helped with fire, food prep and eating.

I first saw the Redhawk in Taylor Martin’s hand at an outdoor event. We talked about it later that evening, and I was eager to get one and put it through the wringer. First stop—the Irish pub to show the guys. After show-and-tell, it was nearing the holiday season and the Redhawk went to work on package duty. Work included heavy plastic strapping, paper and plastic packaging, bubble wrapping and—as little as possible—tape. I hate sticky blades, so usually I cut through cardboard when breaking them down flat. Believe it or not, paper, grass and cardboard are all hard on an edge.

In the woods, the Redhawk made feather sticks for a fire from wet wood and went on to slice ham and sausages. It kept a small bio stove well fed in the colder end of autumn. The blade performed as expected—well! The handle was nimble, yet substantially comfortable. The scalloped grooves in the Micarta scales did their job, especially in chest-lever and pinch grips.

The Redhawk is a compact cutter built for daily tasks, but it carries the machining DNA of a much larger knife. It’s a minimalist tool with maximum intent—exactly what Tactile Knife Co. set out to build.

Closing

The sheepsfoot blade shape shares genetic material with many knives, such as the Malaysian parang, the Japanese santoku knife, rescue knives and Serbian-style cleavers. There’s no escaping this timeless pattern!

Knife Reviews:

Bradford USA Guardian Review: Cutting Performance At Hand

Bradford Guardian 3.2 in MagnaCut is a rope-eating animal.

EDC fixed blades are very popular, small enough to avoid unwanted attention yet able to do most jobs. They often range from 2-to-4-inch blade lengths and 3-to-4-inch handles. Usually carried in a cross draw or pocket sheath, in a pinch they can be used for self-protection (if you have training).

In general, it is a very useful tool that is always on you. I carry one constantly. The Guardian 3.2 in CPM MagnaCut stainless blade steel from Bradford USA definitely fits the bill. As to how well it works, let’s see if it holds up to everyday carry uses.

Guardian Light-Duty Cutting

I started with a 20-pound bond paper slice to check the fresh edge. The Guardian 3.2 was scary sharp. I nicked my fingernail three times by being slow. The blade made smooth, forceful slices with very little pressure. I did all push cuts with nary a snag or rolling of the paper.

Very aggressive slicing into the 8-ounce leather resulted in nice crunching noises.
Very aggressive slicing into the 8-ounce leather resulted in nice crunching noises.

Single-walled cardboard was next on the menu. The results weren’t much different from the bond paper, though there was a slight drag when the thicker part of the blade encountered the cardboard. That didn’t stop the Guardian 3.2 from doing its job. It sliced the cardboard as fast as I could move my fingers out of the way.

Guardian Medium-Duty Cutting

It was time to skive 8-ounce leather. Very aggressive slicing into the leather resulted in nice crunching noises. The handle provided positive control of blade depth and angle during the skiving. I even did some end-grain slicing to keep the crunching going. This is a very sharp knife indeed.

The pouch sheath of 6-to-7-ounce leather holds the knife securely. (BLADE® staff image)
The pouch sheath of 6-to-7-ounce leather holds the knife securely. (BLADE® staff image)

Springtime means camping so I needed to whittle lots of fire sticks. Using leftover pine, I whittled a bunch of excellent curlicues. The Guardian cut very smoothly. The thumb notches on the spine aided in control of cutting depth. Deep cuts or fine cuts, it can do both.

I used the Guardian to baton cut and it split the pine nicely, providing a nice pile of kindling. The handle felt comfortable. There was just one small point by the lanyard hole that was sharp when I rotated my grip. The knife does excellent wood work.

Guardian Heavy-Duty Cutting

As expected, after 30 hard whacks, the MagnaCut blade had a couple of very small nicks along the edge. It would be no big deal to work out the nicks with a very fine diamond hone.

Using leftover pine, the author whittled a bunch of excellent curlicues. The Guardian cut quite smoothly.
Using leftover pine, the author whittled a bunch of excellent curlicues. The Guardian cut quite smoothly.

To show that the small nicks are not that big of a deal, I went back to the 20-pound bond paper slice. There was only one snag when I tried to start a cut on the edge nick. Otherwise, the edge sailed through the paper without tearing. I was impressed the edge didn’t have more issues.

Final Cut

The thumb notches on the spine aided in control of cutting depth. (BLADE® staff image)
The thumb notches on the spine aided in control of cutting depth. (BLADE® staff image)

Some softening at the back of the handle is in order. This knife is designed for slicing every day. The Guardian 3.2 is an impressive fixed-blade EDC.

Guardian 3.2 Specs
Company: Bradford USA
Blade length: 3 1/8”
Blade steel: CPM MagnaCut stainless
Rockwell hardness: 63-64 HRC
Blade finish: Stonewashed black
Blade grind: Saber
Blade pattern: Drop point
Scales: Jade-green G-10
Construction: Full tang
Weight: 4.5 ozs.
Overall length: 7 1/8”
Sheath: Pouch type in 6-to-7-oz. leather
Country of origin: USA
MSRP: $229

More Knife Reviews:

Best Seax Knives [Tested]

Cut like a Viking with some top factory interpretations of an ancient design.

When knife fans think Vikings and Viking blades, the seax is at or near the top of the list. The seax (pronounced sax) blade shape originated in northern Europe from late Roman to early medieval times and was used widely by the Germanic tribes.

Seax means knife or cutting tool, both of which aptly describe the useful blade shape that is equally at home as a tool or a weapon. Typical uses include but are not limited to food preparation, general cutting, carving and more. Medieval warriors entered battle carrying swords, axes and the seax as a back-up. It was a very well-rounded knife design that played a prominent role in daily life.  

Typical seax construction included forged carbon steel blades paired with wood, bone or antler handles. The handle often was adorned with decorative carvings or inlays. In size, the knife ranged from small utility models to swords and everything in between. It also was a symbol of status and identity. Today the seax comes in a wide range of materials, sizes, price ranges and more.

TOPS Knives Storm Vector

Storm Vector batoning wood.
Storm Vector batoning wood.

Storm Vector Specs
Overall Length: 18.25″
Blade Length: 12.63″
Blade Thickness: .250″
Blade Steel: 1095 RC 56-58
Blade Finish: Sniper Gray
Handle Material: Black Canvas Micarta w/ Blue G10 Liner
Weight: 24oz
Sheath: Black Kydex
MSRP: $360

Pros

  • Durable Carbon Steel Blade
  • Effective Chopper
  • High-Quality Sheath

Cons

  • Heavy Weight
  • Blade Coating Wear

A leading example is the TOPS Knives Storm Vector. Featuring a 12.6-inch blade of 1095 carbon steel and an 18.25-inch overall length, the Storm Vector is the largest seax of the test bunch. It’s an intriguing twist of seax meets machete that results in an interesting cutting tool. Done right, 1095 can hold an edge quite well but is also very easy to sharpen in the field, a major selling point. A Sniper Gray coating protects the blade from stains and corrosion and provides a subdued, tactical look. 

The ergonomic handle is black Micarta®. Blue liners give a subtle pop of color to an otherwise dark knife. The handle’s curve, prominent finger grooves and expanded butt all help to make the knife feel as if it were molded to your hand. The Micarta corners are rounded for more comfort. 

Make no mistake, this isn’t a lightweight. The blade is a quarter inch at the thickest and the knife tips the scales at a healthy 24 ounces. The side-break Kydex sheath has a button snap/strap closure to secure the knife, and a neat dangler belt loop allows the sheath to swing freely and not bind up on vegetation. Overall sheath quality: excellent.

Designed by TOPS Knives headman Leo Espinoza—inset holding one at BLADE Show West—the Storm Vector handles baton work like, well, a Viking. (image of Espinoza by BLADE® staff)
Designed by TOPS Knives headman Leo Espinoza—inset holding one at BLADE Show West—the Storm Vector handles baton work like, well, a Viking. (image of Espinoza by BLADE® staff)

The Storm Vector especially excels at chopping. It has the weight to support it, as well as superior handle ergonomics. My hand felt very secure throughout testing; never did I feel as if I were losing control of the knife. TOPS has superb handle ergonomics on many of its larger fixed blades. Rounded, contoured Micarta edges make the handle comfortable to hold, even for extended periods. 

TOPS excels at making superb outdoor knives and the Storm Vector is testament to this. It offers excellent fit and finish. If you want a heavy-duty chopper you can throw around and not have to worry about durability, the Storm Vector is it.

CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax

The CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax feels agile in hand and can easily chop small saplings with ease.
The CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax feels agile in hand and can easily chop small saplings with ease.

Legacy Arms Witham Seax Specs
Overall Length: 17.25″
Blade Length: 12″
Blade Thickness: 0.217″
Blade Steel: 5160
Blade Finish: Satin
Handle Material: Leather-wrapped wood
Weight: 14.4oz
Sheath: Leather
MSRP: $170

Pros

  • Authentic Historical Design
  • Comfortable Handle
  • Good Blade Steel

Cons

  • Light Blade

Based on a 10th-century seax design and at 17.25 inches overall, the Legacy Arms Witham Seax from CAS Iberia is pretty impressive size wise. The 12-inch blade offers plenty of edged real estate paired with a simple handle sporting minimal adornment. 

The 5160 carbon steel blade is flat ground with a convex edge for razor sharpness. A forward guard at the tang is inlaid with what appears to be copper diamond shapes. The motif carries over to the steel buttcap, which boasts the same adornment. The brushed finish of the guard and buttcap complements the blade’s satin finish, rounding out the knife’s overall appearance nicely.

The wood handle is wrapped with leather for a luxurious vibe. It definitely is comfortable to hold. The double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops. The sheath is pretty basic but is all that’s needed to protect the blade.

The Witham’s double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops. 
The Witham’s double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops. 

The Witham Seax is very well made. The quality of finishing is superb and the cutting edge was reasonably sharp out of the box, though I was able to improve it using a coarse-grit diamond sharpening rod. The 5160 sharpens quickly and easily. The fit of both the guard and buttcap to the tang is excellent. 

This is a slender, agile knife. It feels great. It is a bit blade heavy but not so much that it can be employed as a dedicated chopper. While it handles chopping well, I would opt for a design that is more blade heavy and also a more ergonomic handle. That being said, the Witham Seax shines as a general cutting tool. The blade has great bite and the 5160 responds well to steeling or stropping, something you can do easily in the field to prolong a sharp edge. The inlaid edges of the guard are a nice visual touch as well. This is as much a collector piece as it is a user.

Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax

Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle of the Condor Norse Dragon Seax, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath.
Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle of the Condor Norse Dragon Seax, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath.

Norse Dragon Seax Specs
Overall Length: 11.7″
Blade Length: 7.03″
Blade Thickness: .12″
Blade Steel: 1095 High Carbon Steel
Blade Finish: Natural
Handle Material: Burnt American Hickory
Weight: 6.24oz
Sheath: Handcrafted Welted Leather
MSRP: $101

Pros

  • Unique Blade Design
  • Attractive Aesthetics
  • Good Blade Steel

Cons

  • Slim Handle

The Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax features a broken back seax blade design with an angled tip reminiscent of today’s reverse tanto pattern. The 7-inch blade is 1095 and features a two-tone finish—the bevels are satin finished and the flats sport the natural darkened finish a blade exhibits emerging from heat treatment.

The simple handle design is durable hickory with a single brass spacer where the handle meets the tang, accenting the handsome overall look. Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath. At 11.7 inches overall, the Condor entry can tackle a wide variety of chores both indoor and out.  

The Norse Dragon Seax does well on a variety of media thanks to its Scandi-like grind and easy-to-sharpen 1095 carbon steel. 
The Norse Dragon Seax does well on a variety of media thanks to its Scandi-like grind and easy-to-sharpen 1095 carbon steel. 

The Norse Dragon Seax has great blade geometry, enabling it to sail through various materials with ease. The edge out of the box wasn’t quite keen enough but I was able to fine tune it with my arsenal of sharpening equipment very quickly. Once I got the edge to my liking, the Norse Dragon tackled cutting chores with aplomb. The hickory handle is comfortable, though possibly could be a bit thicker to make it easier to grip for folks with larger hands.

This knife is not a chopper. It lacks the mass and blade length as well as handle ergonomics for the activity. However, for a tool that slices and dices, this is it. As long as you limit it to cutting only, you should have no issues. In fact, it is a highly capable cutter that would find a good home in any fixed blade fan’s collection.

Emerson Knives Seax

Thanks to a conventional double “V” grind, whittling is no problem with the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade. The Wave design at the end of the ramp helps identify the knife as an Emerson.
Thanks to a conventional double “V” grind, whittling is no problem with the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade. The Wave design at the end of the ramp helps identify the knife as an Emerson.

Seax Specs
Overall Length: 9″
Blade Length: 3.9″
Blade Thickness: .125″
Blade Steel: 154 CM
Blade Finish: Stonewashed
Handle Material: Black G-10 epoxy/glass laminate
Weight: 5oz
Sheath: Kydex
MSRP: $279

Pros

  • Exceptional Handle Ergonomics
  • Durable Blade Steel
  • Versatile Blade Design

Cons

  • Short Blade Length

Emerson Knives, Inc., has folding and fixed-blade versions of the seax, the latter which is the entry for this review. It is more toward the tactical side, as most of Emerson’s knife line is. Ten inches overall, it sports the company’s superb signature grip ergonomics. 

The handle curves encourage firm, non-slip purchase and the chamfer of the G-10 scales checks the comfort box. The handle surface is textured and sports a series of well-placed golf-ball-like dimples that further enhance purchase. 

The spine thumb ramp terminates in another Emerson signature design, the Wave. Normally used on the company’s folders to assist in opening the blade, the thumb ramp/Wave allows you not only to lock in your grip but also to exert downward pressure to make cuts. One look and it’s an Emerson design for sure, so the thumb ramp/Wave serves as a visual identifier as well.

The 4.8-inch blade boasts a conventional double “V” grind, though the chisel cutting edge bevel is single sided only. The 154CM stainless steel holds an edge very well and is fairly easy to sharpen. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment. The sheath is basic but a quality make and functions well.  

To help enhance purchase, the handle surface of the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade is textured with well-placed golf-ball-like dimples. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment.
To help enhance purchase, the handle surface of the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade is textured with well-placed golf-ball-like dimples. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment.

Though the knife has a tactical design and feel, don’t let that discourage you from using it in outdoor or general settings. First and foremost, it is a great all-around cutting tool. The straight edge easily cuts cardboard, hose, plastic sheeting and foam, and more. It also handles whittling well, with the chisel-ground edge biting into wood aggressively and deeply.

One of the things I have always loved about Emerson knives is the company’s expert application of handle ergonomics. I’ve yet to use an Emerson handle I don’t like. In addition to enhancing purchase, the handle dimples help displace moisture, providing an excellent grip even with wet hands. Emerson builds knives meant for hard use, so don’t fear putting the knife through its paces. It is built for the long haul and won’t let you down. 

More Buyer’s Guides:

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