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3 Sporty Kitchen Knives To Use In The Field

Josh Wayner
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Knives Are Becoming More Multidimensional Every Year. These Sporty Kitchen Knives Are Ready For The Cutting Board Or The Campsite

When many of us blade enthusiasts think kitchen knives, we don’t necessarily associate them with outdoor or sport use. Likewise, many of us would not consider bringing our hard-use blades into the kitchen for prep work. Nonetheless, there are a few knives that have a broad range of uses in both the kitchen and camp. 

I tend to see a knife not just by the edge but by its blade thickness. While there is a utility to extremely thin-edged knives with thin spines, such blades are almost always designed for secondary or finishing uses. In my opinion, the thicker the spine the more utility a knife has for crossover work between kitchen and field. 

On the other hand, the thicker the spine gets, the harder it is to use for fine work—it can even be dangerous. Thinner blades are much better in the kitchen. As far as field use goes, they are pretty much only for light work and very small amounts of game processing. I’ve seen many thin blades break while working on deer. Some of these have resulted in injuries to the user.

Best 3 Sporting Kitchen Knives

There is a sweet spot for crossover, though, and the test knives fit the mold. None would be my preference for dressing a whitetail, but all certainly would be at home in camp or the kitchen after the heavy lifting has been accomplished. 

The TOPS Frog Market Special test knives could be used as skinning knives, as could the White River, but the main enemy of any thin blade is going to be breaking and edge chipping. Of the test group, the White River is the only one thick enough to be a primary use hunting knife, but it is a rather small knife with a slender handle. On small game it will work, if it’s not a bit obtuse in spine thickness, though when moving large amounts of muscle and skin, the hand would fatigue.

So, if we tend to think of a kitchen sporty as a secondary tool, a wide number of its features become handy that would not be so great on a primary field knife or even a primary kitchen knife. The first is the ease of cleaning and the ability to hold an edge. 

I put the review knives to work quite extensively in the kitchen, doing everything short of fully deboning large game. All were used on cuts of meat, to cut vegetables, peel apples, cook over an open flame, and as eating knives at the table or camp. In the process, I learned a few things about each one.

White River Exodus 4

Exodus 4

Of the test group, the White River Exodus 4 is probably the most well-rounded for field and table use. A relatively small knife, it is very slender in overall profile, both grip and blade. For general use, it is extremely functional. I found it suitable for virtually all small game, able to process a whole chicken and an excellent skinner.

It could be used for slicing vegetables, chopping onions, and cutting many other types of fruit and produce as well. The edge profile does not lend itself to fine cuts. For presentation or fancy plates, it tends to split rather than give clean cuts, especially in apples and things like cucumbers. This is not a major concern, just something to note.

The Micarta® handle is contoured superbly and cleans easily. It isn’t slippery when wet. Notably, it’s a full-tang blade that’s extremely strong. Despite its size, it has a blade profile thick enough for baton work on small pieces of wood, though it would not be my first choice for such a job. The blade spine has a sharp 90-degree profile excellent for use with a ferro rod.

There aren’t many if any, downsides to this knife. It can be used in just about any setting and will not look out of place if you take it to town for dinner. You also will not look like “that guy” if you use it to cut a sandwich in half or an apple for your kids in public. Note: The sheath is a bit stiff when you first get it but it breaks in fairly quickly. The knife was very easy to keep clean and sharp.

MSRP: $175

TOPS Knives Frog Market Special

frog market special

I’ve used the Frog Market Special (FMS) models by TOPS Knives for a couple of years. They’ve given me a long time of service in the kitchen as well as around the campfire. They’re available as individual pieces or a set. If you get the set, it comes with a piggyback sheath. The sheath is very nice and has a belt clip.

Steven Dick, U.S. Army ranger veteran and editor of the old Tactical Knives magazine, based his design for the FMS on knives he saw on a trip to Hanoi, Vietnam. He watched butchers and fishmongers using knives of a pattern he’d never seen before. They prepared meats and fish of many varieties easily using the blades.

I’ve done just about everything you can imagine with my FMS knives in the kitchen, and also processed dozens of deer with them. They maintain their edges very well and required only occasional resharpening. Because of the unusual blade shape, the knife can cut just about any type of meat and vegetable, including slicing, chopping, and in a rocking motion. They’ve replaced several other knives in my kitchen and serve as my go-to set.

While they have a large, deep-bellied profile, the FMS knives aren’t especially durable for field use. I have not used them to break down large game for the same reason I would be afraid of breaking any thin-spined knife. They excel for chicken and duck, as well as other small game. The Micarta handle is very comfortable and slip-resistant.

I’ve had an extremely good time with these knives but they have a downside—the blade finish. I’ve had excellent luck with all my TOPS knives, though I’ve never been a fan of the finish. I prefer knives that are bare metal. I don’t like it when the coatings begin to chip away. In a couple years of use, the finish has begun to flake and the metal underneath has become discolored, even with oiling and care. While it is a minor gripe, for knives used to process food I don’t like the idea I may also be eating blade coating. I would like to see this profile in some sort of stainless, or perhaps a slightly thicker spine in a tougher steel.

MSRP: $375 for the set

Spyderco Utility Knives

spyderco utility knives

Spyderco offers some very affordable and high-performance knives that are at home in the kitchen and easy to clean and maintain in the field. The company sent me its 4.5-inch Utility Knife with a serrated edge and red handle, as well as a plain edge 6.5-inch model in black.

The first thing about these knives is they are extremely slender and likely would not be suitable for hard field use. However, if you are already at camp, these are exceptional for end processing and cooking. I used them for weeks straight for all my cooking and they never dulled or chipped. They were both so sharp at the end of the review that they could still cut paper-thin slices of tomato, a hard feat for most knives.

One of the most important parts of these knives is they are essentially foolproof. Even after cooking with them for several meals a day for a long time, I cleaned them without issue and returned them to the knife block. The fact they are so easy to clean and stay sharp for so long really makes them worth the already low price. You don’t really have to worry about oiling them or keeping them in a special container.

In a pinch, the knives can be used for striking on a rod, though I would not recommend it long term. Their utility in the field is very limited, though when it comes to fishing or pursuits that don’t involve moving large animals, they’re just fine. I would not replace my fillet knives with either of these, though they certainly work for the task.

MSRP: $50 or $60

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Dagger Design: Fundamentals Of Dagger Construction

Travis Fry
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Dagger Design: Fundamentals Of Dagger Construction

From maintaining symmetry to adding fullers, we break down the intricate process of making a dagger design into a physical knife.

A dagger is not a kitchen knife in disguise. It is a purpose-built instrument of thrust and that purpose demands precision at every stage of construction. Small errors that might pass unnoticed in a hunter or utility knife compound on the exacting canvas of the dagger. A centerline that begins drifting by a fraction at the ricasso becomes an off-center tip, an uncentered bevel a blade that twists, the result a thrust off target. The difference between success and failure is geometry, and nowhere does geometry matter more than in the making of a dagger.

The process begins with detailed design and planning. The execution begins with precise layout. The central axis is the spine on which the whole piece will rest, and without it symmetry is impossible—the whole blade will stand or fall on getting this right. There are some tricks that will help ensure success.

Dagger Half Template

The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.
The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.

Once you have determined the blade profile, preferably in some physical form like a drawing, make a template so it can be accurately transferred to steel. Here’s the thing, though: you only need half. A template representing only half of the blade profile will allow you to use it for each edge, ensuring perfect symmetry. Include the tang on your profile, not just the blade.

If you’re careful, your half template can be held on your blade stock aligned on a scribed center line and scribed on each side. If you’re less careful, oversize your blade stock and template so you can drill holes for alignment pins in the end of each that is outside the final profile. Using these holes to align the half template for marking each edge is the most precise way to lay out a symmetrical profile. If the stock is oversized, you’ll grind off the alignment holes when grinding the profile.

Planning Plunge Lines

Once you’ve accurately laid the profile out on the blade stock, take the time to scribe in the planned plunge lines on the blade flats and the edge. Sweeping, curved plunges are more visually appealing and careful layout will help ensure that your vision becomes reality. These lines are not decorative. They are the stops, targets if you will, that prevent the grind from slowly creeping toward the ricasso with each grinding pass.

Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.
Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.

When it comes to grinding these sweeping plunges, hollow grinding on a wheel is easier than flat grinding on a platen—it’s easier to grind a curve with a curve—but by all means use a flat platen if that’s what you have. If you’re already grinding on a wheel, a 1-inch-wide wheel with a 1-inch belt will be an easier path to success than the standard 2-inch wheel and belt.

Sweeping plunges also will result in a thicker edge toward the ricasso. This is fine—you shouldn’t try to sharpen this part as doing so most likely will ruin all your careful design work. Will the unsharpened part of the edge impair the stabbing function? Perhaps, but only a little. Though it pains a serious knife person to admit it, most handmade modern daggers are for show. In most societies stabbing others is frowned on, and if you’re going to all this effort, choosing to focus on aesthetics is a good bet. However, if your dagger will be deployed in combat, ignore the aesthetics, grind sharper plunges and take the edge all the way to the ricasso.

Dagger Grinding And Stock Removal

Grinding and stock removal are the way to go for daggers. This is admittedly a hot take but in a game where winning is determined by symmetry, forging introduces unnecessary variables and distorts the base stock, making accurate layout more complicated—not impossible, just not as easy. There is little to gain by forging unless the steel itself or the situation requires it, or if you simply like doing it that way. If you want a damascus pattern to taper toward the tip, or if you’re making a dagger for American Bladesmith Society testing, by all means forge. It’s an impressive skill set. If you want to make the best dagger possible with an eye toward efficiency, and thereby your profit margins, grind it. Stock removal is the more predictable path, and predictability is the soul of symmetry. Every forged blade is a stock removal blade before it’s completed; don’t get hung up on this unless you have reason to.

Delicacy Of The Dagger Tip

Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.
Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.

Where the mass of the ricasso anchors the entire weapon and provides strength at the critical juncture of guard and tang, the tip, by contrast, demands delicacy. Once your profile is carefully ground to shape and you turn to grinding the bevels, grind the tip first. More specifically, grind it at a steeper angle than you plan for the main bevels, and try not to cross the centerline even at that obtuse degree, except at the very end. After that, leave it alone.

Grind the main bevels like you normally would, paying perhaps more attention than usual to your scribed lines, and try to avoid that last inch toward the tip until everything else is pretty much done. This seems a bit odd at first, but consider that the final inch must maintain its thickness in order to be strong enough to pierce effectively without deformation or fracture. If you do it right, you’ll end up with a bevel at the transition. Some makers polish the transition so it remains crisp, while others blend it smooth while polishing. Either way, it should be deliberate. Neglect this and the point will be too thin.

When To Add Fullers

Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.
Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.

Fullers, if they are to be included, should be cut early while the blank still has parallel flats. Attempting them later invites misalignment, or at the least inserts a potentially unnecessary level of difficulty. Better machinists than this writer/dagger enthusiast will likely have little difficulty either way, but life has enough complications of its own without inviting them into play.

Dagger Balance

Balance matters as much as steel. A well-made dagger should balance at or just ahead of the guard, a neutral point where the hand feels neither burdened nor abandoned. This can be tested with nothing more elaborate than a rod beneath the mostly assembled knife, shifting it until it rests level. It’s really just as easy to adjust weight distribution by feel, removing or adding weight to the component parts until it feels right. Don’t forget to consider the added weight of your epoxy. When balance is right, the blade becomes an extension of the wrist, alive and responsive.

Tang & Spacers

How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.
How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.

Even the tang deserves forethought. When profiling the blade blank, leaving the tang longer than necessary provides room for correction and fitting, and a threaded end can serve as both a work-holding aid during construction and a permanent anchor if a pommel or nut will close the assembly.

Spacers, fitted between guard and handle and again between handle and pommel, make alignment easier and allow pins to register each component precisely during glue-up. They’re also relatively easy targets for weight adjustment when working on overall balance. These details are seldom glamorous but are what let the final assembly come together without struggle.

Embellishments

What results from this attention is not decoration but readiness. The embellishments will come later… the fluted handles and twisted wires and all the flourishes that mark the master’s hand. But none of that matters if the design is poor, the execution haphazard, the details unconsidered.

More On Daggers:

U.S. Military Daggers: Blades That Have Taken Point

Mike Haskew
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U.S. Military Daggers: Blades That Have Taken Point

Daggers have struck home the U.S. military’s point from the trenches of Europe to the jungles of Vietnam.

Through the years, the military dagger has been considered an essential piece of equipment for the soldier on the ground and the pilot in the air. As a second line of defense, the dagger must be accessible and capable of quick deployment, not to mention efficient at its job.
As U.S. military personnel have gone into action, their choice of daggers provides a window into their operational history and a view of their actual aptitude when seconds count. Design and dexterity are hallmarks of dagger use in the heat of a life-and-death situation, and these storied weapons of war have gained their place in the annals of close combat.

“A good friend of mine was a chopper pilot in Vietnam,” recalled BLADE® Magazine field editor Kim Breed. “The pilots carried the Gerber MK II upside down on their flight vests. When he was shot down, he and his crew chief went through their ammo; then they drew their daggers while they waited for pickup. They locked onto the enemy, rammed them through the side [with their daggers] and hung on. Then they took [the enemy’s] AK-47s away from them and got back into the fight. They defended themselves while Cobra gunships laid down suppressing fire and a rescue bird, a Huey, came and got them.”

Kim’s comrades might well have been killed in the melee had they not had their Gerber Mk II daggers when needed. Designed by Clarence “Bud” Holzmann, the knife gained legendary status during the Vietnam War, and though it was not standard issue, the Gerber Mk II was popular with U.S. troops—from airmen to special forces and everything in between. The wasp-waisted blade of the original remains a symbol of the close combat sometimes experienced in Southeast Asia, while its intimidation factor led to a redesign for the consumer market.

Later variants of the MK II included saw teeth, a feature added by Al Mar, who worked at Gerber at the time. This allowed the company to market it as a survival knife, not a fighting knife. Sporting goods stores and PXs were more likely to sell the latter. (Les George image)
Later variants of the MK II included saw teeth, a feature added by Al Mar, who worked at Gerber at the time. This allowed the company to market it as a survival knife, not a fighting knife. Sporting goods stores and PXs were more likely to sell the latter. (Les George image)

“It was designed the same as the [original] Mk II except it had serrations on both sides. The serrations might be considered a weak point,” Breed explained. “They had cast aluminum handles and a little thinner blade with that wasp waist. When you actually penetrated something, [the waist] helped along with a bit of extra weight up front.”

While the original Mk II may have been a stronger choice back in the day, the serrated Mk II is also a sought-after collectible. A knifemaker, Kim relates some owners have asked him to grind the serrations completely off this Gerber dagger. He declined to do so.
One more story Kim recounts is of a friend who found himself in hand-to-hand combat during a recon deployment in Vietnam. A Viet Cong patrol was walking past, and the last man in their line spotted the Americans in their cover. “Rather than alerting the whole enemy patrol, my friend took the last man down and used his knife,” said Breed.

Regarding the Mk II, knifemaker Les George added, “Al Mar was a designer at Gerber at the time and he added ‘saw teeth’ to the blade to make it a survival knife. The PX was happy to sell it as such since they didn’t want to sell a ‘fighting knife.’”

A great many modern military daggers trace their roots back to the legendary English Fairbairn-Sykes dagger. The one pictured is a third-pattern variant with a ring grip. (Les George image)
A great many modern military daggers trace their roots back to the legendary English Fairbairn-Sykes dagger. The one pictured is a third-pattern variant with a ring grip. (Les George image)

Industry veteran Bill Harsey also tells a story of combat survival with the Gerber Mk II in Vietnam. “I heard from a Medal of Honor recipient over dinner that his team was overrun by enemy combatants. In close-quarter combat, he drew his knife and stuck it in an enemy soldier. The knife stuck. Even with both hands he couldn’t withdraw it. I have no idea why the knife stuck and he didn’t offer any thoughts. But just to be careful, we have never made a wasp-waisted blade.”

Fairbairn-Sykes And Beyond

The Randall Knives Model 2 Fighting Stiletto bears the name of one of the most famous knifemakers in history and was developed as a robust alternative to the legendary Fairbairn-Sykes dagger. Randall has gone to war with several memorable designs, and according to Breed, the Model 2 is one of the best remembered.

“The blade is a little wider than the well-known Fairbairn-Sykes dagger,” said Kim. “The Randall was more handle-heavy, with only about a 5-inch blade, as I remember. It feels good in the hand. The guard is not sharp on the fingers, which was a challenge with some of the others. Any Randall daggers are collectible, just like Randalls in general. They didn’t make many of them. The Model 2, to me, is a cross between the Fairbairn-Sykes and the V-42 with a leather stack handle.”

The Randall Knives Model 2 bears the name of one of the most famous knifemakers in history—Bo Randall—and was developed as a robust alternative to the legendary Fairbairn-Sykes dagger. (Les George image)
The Randall Knives Model 2 bears the name of one of the most famous knifemakers in history—Bo Randall—and was developed as a robust alternative to the legendary Fairbairn-Sykes dagger. (Les George image)

The Marine Raider Stiletto remains a classic weapon of the World War II era, and it is said to have been the first Marine knife in the Corps’ history designed by a Marine, designed by Lieutenant Colonel Clifford H. Shuey. The story goes that this dagger was developed because the elite Raiders specifically requested a knife for close fighting.

Les offered some observations concerning the Marine Raider stiletto’s proper mission. “When the Marines were issued the Raider Stiletto in World War II, they had been specifically told not to pry with them or throw them,” he said. “So, obviously, they threw them at the first tree they could find and broke the tips off many of those knives.

“I think the Marine Raider Stiletto has the best handle design of all the many knives derived from the Fairbairn-Sykes daggers,” George continued. “It’s not just round. It has features and a shape allowing the blade to be indexed by feel. But the blade is very thin, the tip was fragile and the metal that they cast the handles out of reacts with air. They are all disintegrating. Eventually, we will lose them all.”

Knifemaker and military dagger aficionado Les George is a fan of the Marine Raider stiletto, seen by his collection of the dagger—new and old. (Les George image)
Knifemaker and military dagger aficionado Les George is a fan of the Marine Raider stiletto, seen by his collection of the dagger—new and old. (Les George image)

The handle of the Camillus-made Marine Raider Stiletto was fashioned with a die-cast zinc alloy, while the 7- to 7 ½-inch blade was made of blued or bright steel. The overall feel of the stiletto was hilt-heavy for optimal balance.

“The Marine Raider Stiletto has probably the smallest group of collectors since it primarily appeals to Marines,” commented George. “The rest can be categorized in different ways and have broader appeal. These knives and their more modern counterparts may not find their way to the battlefield as a matter of course, but the history they represent is invaluable.”

Knuckled Under

Les includes the iconic M1918 trench knife among those favored few military daggers carried in wartime by American soldiers. Its design was based on the French M1916 Avenger, and the military held field trials after initial 1917 and early 1918 variants were found inadequate. The M1918 was first made by Landers, Frary & Clark, a housewares and hardware company, production was later increased with Oneida, Henry Disston & Sons and the French manufacturer Au Lion.

George considers the knife's handle the best designed of all the Fairbairn-Sykes derivatives. Unfortunately, this is also the dagger’s weak point as the metal used for the handle reacts with the air and disintegrates. (Les George image)
George considers the knife’s handle the best designed of all the Fairbairn-Sykes derivatives. Unfortunately, this is also the dagger’s weak point as the metal used for the handle reacts with the air and disintegrates. (Les George image)

“The LF&C M1918 trench knife did not see action in World War I,” George explains. “It was made for that war, but it ended before the knives made it to Europe. A lot of them were melted down to reuse the handle material. When the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, they were the only knives in the system available to be issued to Marines … The M1918 saw use in World War II, Korea and Vietnam. I’m not aware of any combat use of the knife since then, but it is possible.”

The M1918 is distinctive with its integrated cast brass handle and brass knuckle grip designed for close combat, along with small spikes on the finger bows and a skull crusher pommel. The medium carbon steel blade has been criticized at times for being brittle, but nevertheless the knife is recognized as formidable in a hand-to-hand brawl.

“The M1918 was designed to be an effective tool for close fighting,” observed Breed. “With a positive grip and the brass knuckle guard, you didn’t have to stab, or you could hit your opponent with the skull crusher. There were dozens of confirmed kills with this dagger. It was not recommended to dig with them because they were prone to breakage or ‘bendage.’ You could drive that big brass handle into the dirt, but that half shaft that came down from the blade was short on steel and weakened the knife around the tang.”
The eye appeal of the M1918 makes the dagger collectible. “It’s pretty popular and one of the iconic knives of its type,” Kim concluded.

Many think of the M1918 as the quintessential World War I trench knife, though the variant didn't see action in that conflict, adopted too late. Based on the French M1916 Avenger, it was meant to replace the 1917 and early 1918 variants, which were found inadequate. (Les George image)
Many think of the M1918 as the quintessential World War I trench knife, though the variant didn’t see action in that conflict, adopted too late. Based on the French M1916 Avenger, it was meant to replace the 1917 and early 1918 variants, which were found inadequate. (Les George image)

Representative of the fighting men who carried them into harm’s way, these U.S. military daggers of the 20th century continue to fascinate with their double-edge blade, balanced feel and handle characteristics. Their place in history is secure, while collectors and knife industry veterans are doing their best to preserve and retell the stories that surround them.

More On Military Knives:

The M7 Bayonet: From Combat To The Campsite

Mike Ableson
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The M7 Bayonet Has Been Used By The United States Military For Almost 60 Years. The Dynamic, Multi-Purpose Tool Is Just As Useful Now As When It First Went Into Service.

When you first think of a bayonet your mind probably goes to the battlefields of the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. But no, bayonets aren’t some relic from a bygone era. While the days of bayonet charges are long long, the knives are still in use by the military today and have evolved into a multi-faceted tool.

The M7 Bayonet stands out due to its longevity. Built on the back of the M4 bayonet, which was issued toward the tail end of World War 2, the M7 is designed to be used with the M16 or the M4 carbine, although it can fit on numerous other rifles. 

The History Of The M7 Bayonet

The M7 was first introduced in 1964 during the Vietnam War. The knife was initially made by Bauer Ord Company, but numerous companies did eventually manufacture the M7. Today, the lone remaining maker of combat-deployed M7 bayonets is Ontario Knife, though the knife is still available from at least one other company (Smith & Wesson).

Despite being issued by the United States military, the M7 was also made in Canada, West Germany, Australia, and in several countries in Asia.

How Does The M7 Work?

The M7 connects to the M16 via a lug thanks to a dual-lever locking mechanism. This secures the blade to the barrel while keeping the muzzle unblocked. A release mechanism on the pommel of the knife allows it to detach from the firearm easily.

Ontario Knife Company M7 Bayonet

Ontario Knife Company M7 Bayonet

Ontario Knife Co. was one of many makers to manufacture the M7, and it is the last to make the military issue variety of the blade. There is also a commercial version as well, which will be reviewed here.

It starts with a 1080 carbon steel blade with a zinc phosphate finish married to a modified Kraton handle. The blade is 6.7 inches long, and the whole construction is just shy of a foot in length. It tips the scales at 1.15 pounds. It looks beefy and feels hefty in the hand, as you would expect from a such a knife.

The included molded plastic sheath is a pistol belt clip. The lightweight sheath allows for safe, easy transport of the knife. While this knife is designed for combat, it’s burly design allows for multiple different uses. This would be a an excellent all-rounder when camping.

MSRP: $114.95

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Case Knives: Bevy Of New Knife Drops For The New Year

Elwood Shelton
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Case Knives: Bevy Of New Knife Drops For The New Year

Case Knives is celebrating its 135th year with some top-notch new knives.

Creeping up on a century and a half of knifemaking, Case seems to feel its oats still. Or, that’s the way it seemed from the prolific 135-year-old Pennsylvania manufacturer’s recent releases at the 2024 SHOT Show, held in January in Las Vegas. The company had a full-court press of drops at the gun and outdoor gear hoedown, with a bevy of new lines, releases, collabs and model iterations. This should prove sweet music to the army of the brand’s collectors.

There isn’t space enough to cover every whipstitch of what Case is bringing to the table in 2024, but we’ll take a gander at some of the company’s weightier introductions for the coming year. There’s a little bit of everything for case fans out there, from classic patterns with new twists to brand-new knives that strike original ground.

Bridgeline Series

Not wandering too far off the beaten path, Case’s newest series of knives offers some nice updates for users seeking a modern knife. At the vanguard of the line are the Highbanks and Longhouse, both of which should prove excellent everyday carry options with the chops to handle most tasks thrown in front of them. Each features aluminum frames and bolsters, screw construction, ball bearing pivots, deep-carry pocket clips and CPM-20CV steel blades.

Case isn’t shying from the use of powdered steel for its blades, and the choice in these knives offers up a premium option used in a number of higher-end production knives. It’s similar to D2 and other tool steels—respectable toughnesss and edge retention—but with the added benefit of improved corrosion resistance.

Highbanks

Case Highbanks

Certainly a break from the tried and true, the Highbanks veers to the more traditional in the Bridgeline Series. Namely, because the knife is a non-locking folder bosting a nail nick and a Wharncliffe blade. Still, with the high-performance blade steel and the choice of Micartia or hardwood grips, this certainly isn’t your granddad’s jackknife. I particularly like the handle ergonomics of the Highbanks, tapering nicely to the blade and fitting the hand just right. Spoiler… so does the Longhouse.

Longhouse

Case Longhouse 2

Here we see Case move its design a bit more forward with the flipper Longhouse. The liner lock boasts plenty of blade, a clip-point profile with a beef spine that should help the knife stand up to any job put in front of it. However, the hand mimics the Highbanks, giving the knife a timeless look I’d wager many Case fans will appreciate.

Chris Taylor Hunters

Teaming up with renowned custom knifemaker Chris Taylor, Case has cooked up an intriguing hunting-knife collection. This year, the partnership unveils three unique fixed blades, each a fairly unique take on the must-have outdoor implement.

CT1

Case CT1

Crafted to exude rugged dependability, the CT1 showcases a top-tier Nitro V steel Clip-point blade. Known for its outstanding edge retention, corrosion resistance, and easy maintenance, Nitro V steel ensures that your knife remains ready and reliable whenever and wherever you require it. Case gives the knife an OD green burlap Micara handle, a plus for a hard-use knife that will likely be used in inclement weather. The CT1 also boasts aggressive jimping on its spine, so you have a solid contact point on more forceful cuts.

CT2

Case CT2

Cutting a much sleeker profile, the CT2 has the most modern feel among the CT hunters. Built around a resilient S35VN steel drop point blade, the knife doesn’t offer as much belly as the others in the line. But with a defined point, should prove at pro at perforation. The carbon-fiber handle is a nice touch, adding to the CT2’s modern looks, and proves very ergonomic and nimble in the hand.

CT3

Case CT3

Tailored for the wilderness, the CT3 has more of a traditional hunter profile. Constructed from premium 1095 carbon steel, its specialized coated skinner blade boasts razor-sharpness, facilitating precision cuts and providing a sharpening advantage compared to many other steels. Outfitted with a hunter orange handle, the nice part about the CT3 is it will be difficult to lose in the woods.

Razor

Case Razor

Case is commemorating its 135-year legacy by dusting off a real classic eye-catcher—the Razor. Reintroduced from the Case XX Vault, the knife is available in two patterns: a single-bladed version featuring a broad Clip blade with a distinctively curved tip, and a two-bladed variant with an additional Pen blade. Available in over a dozen handle styles, such as Smooth Abalone, Micarta, Smooth Brown Maple Burl Wood, and Sawcut Jig Caribbean Blue Bone, the Razor is a great Case throwback and a fantastic knife for the company to pay homage to its rich history.

Check Out Our Knife Reviews:

Best Skinner Knives: A Guide to Top-Rated Hunting Blades

Reuben Bolieu
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Best Skinner Knives: A Guide to Top-Rated Hunting Blades

Find the perfect hunting knife with our guide to the best skinners on the market. We review top models from respected makers.

A skinner is a knife purpose-built for the delicate but necessary job of skinning game animals. Its singular mission: separate hide from muscle without causing a mess that makes a taxidermist weep.

Skinning knives serve specific purposes. Primarily, they glide beneath the hide with minimal resistance. This feature allows for a smoother cutting experience, making it easier to separate the skin from the meat.

Skinners also aim to minimize accidental punctures to the underlying meat or organs. This is crucial for preserving the quality of the meat and ensuring that it remains uncontaminated during the skinning process. Finally, skinners offer the control necessary for making fine cuts around joints, facial features and paws. This level of precision is essential for skilled processing, allowing for clean and efficient work.

Good Skinners and Bad

A good skinner slices smoothly without requiring brute force, retaining the cutting edge throughout the job. It cleans easily, especially around the scales, and feels intuitive in your hand, almost as if the knife knows your intentions before you do. Moreover, it keeps the hide intact, avoiding headaches caused by unwanted holes.

A bad skinner features an overly aggressive tip that punctures organs at the slightest touch, slippery scales that become a liability when blood is involved, and poor edge retention that necessitates awkward sharpening breaks. It may possess a clunky balance that makes it feel more like a garden tool than a precision instrument and hard-to-clean crevices that turn into breeding grounds for bacteria.

In short, an effective skinner collaborates with, rather than works against, you; it’s about finesse, not sheer strength, resembling a scalpel instead of a medieval cleaver.

Classic Design Skinners

Classic skinners are all about specific design features as opposed to gimmicks. They typically have a blade with a wide belly and sweeping curve for long, confident strokes that excel at slicing through hide. Most use a drop point or semi-rounded tip to prevent accidental stabbing when dealing with gut sacks.

A flat or convex grind offers a good balance between sharpness and strength, while hollow grinds, though sometimes sharper, can be fragile. Blade lengths usually range from 3 to 4 inches for maneuverability in tight areas like hooves or facial contours. Ergonomics is also crucial, with grippy materials like Micarta® or textured rubber preferred to prevent slippage.

Montana Knife Co. Packout Skinner

The author indicated the Packout Skinner would make Nessmuk proud. With a MagnaCut stainless steel blade and textured G-10 handle, it sliced through Teriyaki chicken like a champ.
The author indicated the Packout Skinner would make Nessmuk proud. With a MagnaCut stainless steel blade and textured G-10 handle, it sliced through Teriyaki chicken like a champ.

Pros

  • Top-Tier Steel
  • Compact and Maneuverable
  • Ergonomic Grip

Cons

  • Expensive

Packout Skinner Specs
Blade Length: 3”
Blade @Thickest: .11”
Blade Steel: MagnaCut stainless
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Scales: G-10
Weight: 2.98 ozs.
Overall Length: 7”
Sheath: Kydex
Country of Origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $300

The Montana Knife Co. (MKC) Packout Skinner is a compact powerhouse built for precision in the field. It packs a generous belly into a tight footprint—ideal for long, clean skinning strokes. The blade offers top-tier edge retention, corrosion resistance and toughness that thrives in backcountry conditions. Full-tang construction is paired with a milled handle shaped for a secure, glove-friendly grip that stays comfortable through extended use. The ergonomic palm swell and thoughtful finger ramp give you control whether you’re slicing hide or fleshing out detail work.

A custom-molded sheath complements the package, providing secure retention and versatile carry options: horizontal, vertical or pack-mounted. This knife doesn’t just show up, it works hard—just like the hunters it is built for.

A simple knife test I use is rustic meat cooking and slicing. In my eyes, and according to George Washington Sears, aka Nessmuk, an outdoor knife should be able to skin, butcher and slice. The Packout Skinner would make him proud. It does it all. I had a small summer barbecue with Teriyaki chicken and the skinner sliced it like a champ.

The sheath came in scout carry mode, so that’s how I used it. It carried comfortably. However, bending forward processing meat and camp must-haves made me remove it for a few minutes. On the plus side, it was easy to remove and attach without having to take it off my belt.

W.R. Case & Sons Laramy Miller Sasquatch Skinner

The Sasquatch easily feathered wood that took a spark from a stout ferro rod. The edge was sharp and the spine has a good 90-degree angle for fire starting.
The Sasquatch easily feathered wood that took a spark from a stout ferro rod. The edge was sharp and the spine has a good 90-degree angle for fire starting.

Pros

  • Excellent Edge Retention and Durability
  • Hidden Utility
  • Ergonomic Handle

Cons

  • Heavy

Sasquatch Skinner Specs
Blade Length: 3.94”
Blade @Thickest: .125”
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Caswell™
Scales: Natural Micarta®
Weight: 8.38 ozs.
Overall Length: 8.75”
Sheath: Brown leather
Country of Origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $196.99

The W.R. Case & Sons Laramy Miller Sasquatch Skinner is a rugged fixed blade fashioned for serious field work. It strikes a balance between reach and control, perfect for skinning game or tackling camp chores. The blade has excellent edge retention and a stealthy, corrosion-resistant surface.

The smooth handle offers a secure, scratch-resistant grip with a soft feel that stays comfortable through prolonged use. The full-tang construction adds durability, while the ergonomic shape keeps your hand locked in when things get messy.

A fitted sheath completes the package, offering classic protection and easy belt carry. This knife is built to perform and last.

The rugged Sasquatch Skinner feels like a survival knife meant for hard use and skinning. The first thing I did was make a fire. I feathered a dry birch stick and was impressed with the skinner’s edge geometry. I made curls that were thin enough to take a spark via my Uberleben ferro rod and the blade spine. I didn’t read any info on the spine having a 90-degree angle. However, it’s a hidden gem! The second half of the spine—middle to tip—is where it’s sharp.

I employed the Sasquatch to split poplar and maple via a baton with no worries. I found the handle a bit thin for gripping during specific crafts. Maybe that’s why it’s a skinner, not a survival knife.

The edge was sharp and stayed that way. I like the absence of gimping as I don’t use it. However, most knife folks would disagree, especially with a skinner. The knife seemed like a ramped-up skinner, slightly on the heavy side, but then think of survivalist/mountain man Laramy Miller—they don’t call him Sasquatch for nothing!

The sheath carries traditionally on the belt at a medium height. It’s not too much of a rib jabber, nor does it carry too low.

White River Knife & Tool Model 1 Skinner

The grip on the Model 1 was secure and the spine’s forward gimping proved useful. After an hour of skinning and deboning, the author had no complaints. The thin grind made cutting effortless and the taper is outstanding.
The grip on the Model 1 was secure and the spine’s forward gimping proved useful. After an hour of skinning and deboning, the author had no complaints. The thin grind made cutting effortless and the taper is outstanding.

Pros

  • Premium Materials
  • Lightweight and Compact
  • Controlable

Cons

  • Lower Blade Hardness

Model 1 Skinner Specs
Blade Length: 3”
Blade @Thickest: .13”
Blade Steel: CPM S35VN stainless
Rockwell Hardness: 58-60 HRC
Finish: Stonewash
Scales: Textured orange G-10
Weight: 3.5 ozs.
Overall Length: 7”
Sheath: Kydex
Country of Origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $160

The White River Knife & Tool Model 1 Skinner is a target-constructed field knife that blends compact control with premium materials perfectly sized for precision work without sacrificing reach. The blade has excellent edge retention and corrosion resistance for repeated use in harsh conditions. The textured handle provides a secure, ergonomic grip—wet or gloved—while the large choil and gimping enhance control during delicate skinning tasks. A custom-molded sheath ensures safe carry and quick access, whether belt-mounted or pack-ready. Lightweight and razor sharp, the Model 1 is a reliable companion for hunters who demand performance without bulk.

While there wasn’t a running wild game season in my area of the Northeast when I wrote these words, I stuck with simplicity. One bird always in season is chicken. I buy skin-on, bone-in and prefer to do the preparation. The Model 1 makes for an excellent, nimble butcher knife. I used the little gem to debone split-chicken breasts and skinned them with ease. The grip was never in question and the forward spine gimping proved helpful. I used it for about one hour, skinning and deboning with no complaints. The thin grind glided through the meat with ease and the taper is excellent.

TOPS Knives Backwoods Skinner

In ulu mode with the Backwoods Skinner, the author sliced raw carrots effortlessly. The edge geometry works for food and game prepping.
In ulu mode with the Backwoods Skinner, the author sliced raw carrots effortlessly. The edge geometry works for food and game prepping.

Pros

  • Versatile and Multi-Purpose
  • Unique and Secure Gut Hook
  • Excellent Ergonomics

Cons

  • Gut Hook Deployment

Backwoods Skinner Specs
Designer: Joshua Swanagon
Blade Length: 3”
Blade @Thickest: .16”
Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
Blade Finish: Coyote tan coating
Scales: Green canvas Micarta®
Weight: 5.4 ozs.
Overall Length: 6.75”
Sheath: Black leather
Country of Origin: U.S.A.
MSRP: $270

The TOPS Knives Backwoods Skinner is a compact ulu-inspired knife built for precision and endurance. The deep-bellied blade is perfect for slicing through hide and tackling bushcraft tasks without flinching.

The gut hook nestled in the handle is excellent for hunting season. I used it as a cord cutter. The sharp hook is a standard fixture for search-and-rescue personnel to slice cord and rope and to free people from entanglements. Remove the grenade pin and carefully take out the gut hook. Reverse the hook and install it in the proper hole for security. Make sure to put the sheath on to prevent cuts. My gut hook took some working in with another object until it fit. I suggest using leather gloves to avoid cuts from the hook.

The handle features an ovulated grip and deep choil, offering fatigue-free control and a confident hold even in messy conditions. Hidden in the pommel is a clever gut hook, deployable when needed and safely tucked away when not. A sheath combining classic style with belt-loop-carry convenience augment the package. Designed by survival authority Joshua Swanagon, the knife is ready for big game, small game and everything in between.

I remember a video with designer Joshua Swanagon talking about the ulu-shaped blade. I saw the ulu pattern immediately when I first saw the knife. Luckily for me, carrots were in season. I used the Backwoods Skinner as I would an ulu, slicing and dicing. Carrots are more difficult to cut due to their hardness. A dull or too thickly beveled blade will wedge and split the vegetable. However, there was none of that. I used my forefinger on the drop portion of the blade tip as intended for controlled slices. I also used it like a regular kitchen knife, choking up in a chef’s pinch grip. Both worked perfectly fine and were comfortable.

Check Out More Outdoor Knives:

CRKT And Hogue Announce New Knife-Making Partnership

BLADE Staff
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CRKT And Hogue Announce New Knife-Making Partnership

First Announced At SHOT Show 2023, CRKT And Hogue Knives Announced A New Manufacturing Partnership To Create The Next Generation Of CRKT Knives.

The collaboration between the brands launched at SHOT Show 2023 in Las Vegas with the release of two new American-made knives: the Definitive and LCBK. This new joint effort showcases CRKT’s eye for design, craftsmanship, and making purpose-driven products.

First announced at SHOT Show 2023, Columbia River Knife & Tool and Hogue Knives will join forces in a new manufacturing collaboration. The partnership blends the Oregon-based CRKT’s innovative and user-friendly ethos with Hogue’s long history of precision engineering and will focus on the next era of CRKT knives.

CRKT Definitive And LCBK

CRKT Definitive
The sleek CRKT Definitive has an MSRP of $215, the same as the LCBK.

The companies showcased their first two knives together at SHOT: the Definitive and LCBK. Both models are high-end folding EDC knives made from 154CM steel married to a G10 handle. Both are also among the first in the CRKT lineup to feature a crossbar lock, the ambidextrous, one-handed locking mechanism.

The Definitive is the bigger of the two knives with a 3.7-inch blade (vs a 3.48-inch blade on the LCBK), and it outweighs the LCBK 3 ounces to 2.8 ounces. The blade on the Definitive features a stonewashed finish while the LCBK has a bead blast finish.

Both knives have an MSRP of $215.

The Future Of The CRKT/Hogue Collaboration

LCBK knife
The LCBK has a bead blast finish and is a light 2.8 ounces.

These knives are meant to be the first launch in a long-term, wide-sweeping alliance between the two companies. Both have said they are excited to work together and learn from each other’s expertise.

“We’ve known the team at Hogue Knives for quite some time and their sterling reputation in the marketplace is well deserved,” said Doug Flagg, VP of Marketing & Innovation for CRKT. “As we looked towards partners in US manufacturing, they were an obvious fit in helping us develop top-notch American-made knives and we couldn’t be more pleased to be working with them.”

“This partnership with CRKT is a natural extension for our business,” said Jim Bruhns, President of Hogue Knives. “CRKT’s penchant for design and willingness to take risks and stand out fits right in with the ethos here at Hogue Knives and we’re excited for what the future holds for both brands.”

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