With More Than A Century Of History, The Trench Knife Soldiers On As A Historical Collectible And A Modern Outdoor Knife.
The trench knife may be the ultimate weapon for close-quarters combat. With a sharp blade designed for stabbing, and a finger guard that doubles as a knuckle duster, the blade is excellent for messy, claustrophobic situations, which you would expect as it was named for the intimate and brutal trench warfare of World War I.
By the time World War II began, trench warfare was nowhere near as common as it had been previously. In turn, the trench knife evolved.
The United States issued the Mark I in 1942 and 1943 to certain special military groups like the Army Rangers and Marine Raiders. The Mark I was a newer version of WWI trench knives, including a finger guard, a stiletto blade, and a skull crusher cap built into the pommel.
However, over the course of WWII, the trench knife gave way to the combat knife. Most notable of these, the US M3 fighting knife, which was adopted in 1943. The M3 became the framework upon which more contemporary bayonets and fighting knives like the M4 and M7 were built.
Can I Own A Trench Knife Today?
That’s a complicated question to answer.
The trench knife is classified as a dangerous weapon in many states and countries for a variety of reasons. Some places prohibit them because they have double-sided blades while others focus on the knuckle dusters or the length of the blade as reasons to ban them.
Owning or carrying a trench knife is banned in numerous countries including the United Kingdom, Australia, Ireland, Canada, China, and Singapore, among others.
In America, the knife is outlawed in some form in 23 states, and even among the states where it’s legal to own and/or carry, 18 of those states either only allow you to keep the knife in your home or require a permit to carry it on your person.
The only states with no permit rules for owning a trench knife are Texas, South Dakota, Indiana, South Carolina, Idaho, Hawai’i, Georgia, Arizona, and Alabama.
Modern Trench Knives
There aren’t many companies left making trench knives similar to those blades from a century ago. However, the two below are modern takes on the combat classic.
M48 Liberator Trench Knife
This is the souped-up version of the original trench knife. Everything about the Liberator is big and bold and in your face.
It starts with the 7.5-inch 2Cr13 cast stainless blade that is ground sharp on both sides. The blade has a satin finish and black oxide coating to add to its intimidating aura. The handle scales are made from a light, rugged fiberglass-reinforced nylon that provides a strong grip without adding too much weight.
And then there’s the knuckle duster tang. It both acts as a knuckle guard and an intense defense weapon. The added spikes on the handle allow you to use more force in case you are defending yourself. The knife fits into an injection-molded Vortec and nylon belt sheath that snaps shut and easily fits on your person.
It’s bad. It’s unapologetic. It’s the ultimate modern version of the trench knife.
MSRP: $79.99
Cold Steel Chaos Double Edge
A more muted version of the trench knife, the Chaos Double Edge from Cold Steel gives a modern, tactical spin on the old classic.
The blade itself is made from SK-5 high-carbon steel and is 7.5 inches long. The full-tang construction allows for a well-weighted knife that can be used to defend or to slice through dense brush. Both sides are ground sharp and meet at a spear point so the knife can puncture as you would expect.
The handle is made from 6061 aluminum and features a pair of D ring guards, which are a newer version of the old-school knuckle duster guards that is used for the same purpose. The pommel of the knife is tapered to allow for more force when using the cap to strike.
The included sheath is made from Secure-Ex and is both Molle-Lok and Tek-Lok compatible so transporting the Double Edge will be a breeze.
Denis Tyrell’s Ice Blue Bowie Showcases The Journeyman Smith’s Skills At Forging A Blade And Stylizing A Knife
Denis Tyrell’s Ice Blue Bowie is one cool sub-hilt fixed blade—so cool, in fact, that it recently won The Bowie Knife Challenge shown on 18 different YouTube channels.
The 14-inch bowie features a near-full-flat-ground blade of Tyrell’s Snowflake mosaic damascus, a stabilized wood handle and hot-blued fittings of a twisted damascus. The bowie is in a takedown construction with the pommel nut securing the handle and guard to the knife.
Tyrell, who helped organize the challenge along with a friend, won the first challenge this past June too, which consisted of competing gyutos shown across 10 different YouTube channels. Each winner was determined by a vote of viewers watching the makers.
You can search “Tyrell Knifeworks” on YouTube to watch the past challenges and see the knifemakers in action. You can watch Tyrell make the Ice Blue Bowie in all its glory below.
Tyrell Knifeworks
Tyrell is a journeyman smith who moved to California in 2001 from his native Canada. He specializes in custom damascus knives. From his shop in Livermore, a moderate-sized city on the Eastern edge of San Francisco Bay, Tyrell runs a series of forging courses.
His courses range from introductory classes in how to forge or how to make your first damascus pattern all the way up to more intense fare. He teaches specific classes on mosaic and feather damascus as well as, one of his most popular courses, a course teaching folks how to make copper-layered damascus.
For more information, go to YouTube, enter “Tyrell Knifeworks”, and look for the challenge of your choice.You can watch Denis make the Ice Blue Bowie in the video below.
Ice Blue Bowie Knife Specs Knife: Ice Blue Bowie Bladelength: 8 inches Blade material: Snowflake damascus Handle: Stabilized wood Fittings: Twisted damascus Steels: 1095 and 15N20 (both the blade and fittings) Overall length: 14 inches Maker’s list price for a similar piece: $2,000
Born as a side hustle, the legendary throwing knife company continues to hit the mark.
Small businesses that have operated continuously for 75 years are a testament to the quality of their products and the dedication of their founders and owners. Such businesses have stood the test of time and have been able to adapt to changing market conditions and consumer preferences. Knifemaking is no different.
In 1949, Harry K. McEvoy, who would soon be considered the father of modern-day knife throwing and one day be inducted into the BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame®, was a long-time resident of Grand Rapids, Michigan. He worked for the Meyercord Co. as a traveling district salesman selling decals to wallpaper and decorating stores. In his spare time, Harry spent hours in his shop designing and crafting knives. His passion for knifemaking was fueled by his ongoing search for the perfect throwing knife.
BLADE Magazine Cutlery Hall-of-Fame® member Harry McEvoy shows the form and throws one of the Tru Balance knives that helped revolutionize knife throwing.
Knife throwing as a modern sport began shortly after World War II and centered around a few individuals who threw knives at stumps or targets in their backyards. The knives they used consisted of very primitive homemade throwers that were often much smaller than the ones you see today. Harry began making his own knives around this time because he was unable to find any commercial knives suitable for throwing.
While he practiced throwing knives in his backyard, neighbors would gather to watch. Intrigued by how well his throwers performed, the onlookers were compelled to discover the source of his knives. When he responded that he, in fact, had made them himself, they asked him to make knives for them and others who were interested, and thus was born the Tru Balance Knife Co.
Randall & Scagel’s Influence
The author (left) bought Tru Balance Knife Co. from Stephen McEvoy (right) in 2017. The business continued to grow but the author had to sell in 2021 due to physical issues.
Around 1951, Harry learned of a knifemaker from Orlando, Florida, and another future Cutlery Hall-of-Famer by the name of W. D. “Bo” Randall. As a fledgling hobby knifemaker, Harry decided to write to Bo about his knives and the two became fast friends, exchanging letters regularly.
McEvoy soon found out that Bo had an interest in throwing knives and was surprised to learn that a throwing knife could even be found in Bo’s catalog. As a father with young children, money was scarce for Harry, so he convinced Bo to trade a Randall thrower for a couple of McEvoy throwers. Generous and willing to help a fellow knifemaker, Bo was happy to oblige.
George E. “Skeeter” Vaughan made the most fantastic knife throw in recorded history, taking out a German sentry with a modified bayonet from 87 feet during World War II. Skeeter was also an outstanding tomahawk thrower, showing his skills here with the help of a “target girl.”
Around 1952, Bo asked Harry if he would visit yet another future Cutlery Hall-of-Famer, William Scagel, who lived very close to McEvoy in Fruitport, Michigan, and buy some of Scagel’s knives for his collection. McEvoy was more than happy to do his friend a favor. Harry would eventually befriend the reclusive Scagel, too, and on his visits watched him make knives and bought knives for himself and Bo.
As their friendship grew, Harry would visit Bo at the Randall summer home in Michigan and would even travel to the Randall home in Orlando, Florida. The two became quite close and eventually, Bo decided to feature two Tru Balance Models in the Randall catalog. The Model #1 Professional Thrower and the now world-famous Bowie-Axe Throwing Knife made their catalog debut in early 1960, which resulted in a spike in sales for Harry.
In his spare time, Harry McEvoy spent hours in his shop designing and crafting knives.
Bo thought so much of Harry’s work that he gifted one of Harry’s Tru Balance Bowie Axe throwers to astronaut Gordon Cooper. He also took Harry’s popular Bowie Axe design and modified it into a large machete-style knife and submitted it to NASA in the 1960s when NASA was looking for a machete for astronauts to carry on the Gemini missions. Unfortunately for Harry, NASA required a much thinner design and eventually chose another manufacturer, Case Knives, to make the machete.
AKTA
Meanwhile, Tru Balance soon became the go-to company for anyone who wanted a high-quality professional throwing knife. Tru Balance throwing knives became highly sought after by soldiers heading to Vietnam, professional knife throwers and knife collectors around the world.
In 1971, Harry started the American Knife Throwers Alliance (AKTA) to aid and offer guidelines to individuals and groups who wished to organize competitively in their local areas. Harry became very close friends with professional knife throwers like Kenneth Pierce, aka Che Che Whitecloud, Paul LaCross and George E. “Skeeter” Vaughan, who holds the distinction of making the most fantastic knife throw in recorded history. Considering the circumstances surrounding his legendary feat of taking out a German sentry during World War II with a modified bayonet from 87 feet, he most likely will maintain his grasp on that honor for a long time to come. “The Saga of Skeeter Vaughan” is told by McEvoy in the April 1982 BLADE®.
Harry went on to author such books as Scagel: The Man and His Knives; Archery Today; Crusader in the Wilderness; Knife Throwing: A Practical Guide; Knife and Tomahawk Throwing: The Art Of The Experts; For Knives Lovers Only; and co-authored Knife Throwing a Modern Sport, with Charles Gruzanski. McEvoy also held two design patents and trademarks for his knife designs. He also authored other articles for BLADE, as well as for Knife World (today’s KNIFE), Muzzleloading Magazine, Fighting Knives Magazine and many more.
McEvoy Legacy
In 1991, McEvoy was inducted into the Cutlery Hall of Fame for his exceptional contributions to the world of knives. It was around this time McEvoy’s son Stephen had taken an interest in his father’s knives and had begun learning more about the business. Stephen eventually took over the company in 1993 following Harry’s passing from an illness.
When McEvoy—here mugging during a lighter moment—practiced throwing knives in his yard, neighbors would gather to watch. The onlookers showed interest in the knives, and Tru Balance Knife Co. was born.
This writer, a friend of Harry’s and a fellow knifemaker, reached out to Stephen via telephone to offer condolences and advice. We chatted regularly and, over time, as we shared stories, we developed a friendship. Our phone conversations led to Stephen’s yearly visits to my home. During one of those visits, I asked him if I could take over the defunct American Knife Throwers Alliance (AKTA) and Stephen agreed.
Stephen would continue to run Tru Balance Knife Co. the same way his father ran it for many years. In 2015, after retiring from his job as an executive at a major insurance company, Stephen began speaking to me about slowing down and retiring from making knives. Already a full-time knifemaker with my own line of throwing knives, I envisioned bringing Tru Balance Knife Co. into the 21st century by selling Tru Balance knives on its own website and promoting the business via social media.
Skeeter Vaughan’s Cherokee Indian name is Grey Otter. He served as a chief of the Federated Indian Tribes for a number of years.
With the newfound success spearheaded by the new business plan, Stephen finally decided to fully retire from the business. A deal was brokered and I bought Tru Balance Knife Company in 2017, moving it to my hometown of Awendaw, South Carolina. The business would continue to grow but, not long thereafter, I developed some knee issues and struggled to keep up with the company’s new customer demands. Unable to find a qualified apprentice to help me fill orders, I decided to sell the business in 2021.
Tru Balance Heads Home
Though several companies made offers to buy the company, I decided I wanted to hand-pick my successor to ensure the legacy of the Tru Balance Knife Co. and that the knives would continue to be made in the USA. As the search for the right successor was underway, a mutual friend brokered a connection between me and two brothers from Michigan who had an interest in the business and the revitalization of the AKTA. The brothers made knives as a hobby and also happened to be skilled knife throwers.
Bill and James Bednarick turned out to be the perfect choice to preserve the company’s legacy and bring it back to its original home in Michigan. With their keen eye for detail, quality and passion for knife throwing, their dedication has ensured that the Tru Balance Knife Co. has lived on to see its 75th anniversary in 2024.
From maintaining symmetry to adding fullers, we break down the intricate process of making a dagger design into a physical knife.
A dagger is not a kitchen knife in disguise. It is a purpose-built instrument of thrust and that purpose demands precision at every stage of construction. Small errors that might pass unnoticed in a hunter or utility knife compound on the exacting canvas of the dagger. A centerline that begins drifting by a fraction at the ricasso becomes an off-center tip, an uncentered bevel a blade that twists, the result a thrust off target. The difference between success and failure is geometry, and nowhere does geometry matter more than in the making of a dagger.
The process begins with detailed design and planning. The execution begins with precise layout. The central axis is the spine on which the whole piece will rest, and without it symmetry is impossible—the whole blade will stand or fall on getting this right. There are some tricks that will help ensure success.
Dagger Half Template
The Line That Rules Them All. A cleanly scribed centerline on both edge and flats sets the maker up for successful layout. A centering ruler can be a useful tool to check this.
Once you have determined the blade profile, preferably in some physical form like a drawing, make a template so it can be accurately transferred to steel. Here’s the thing, though: you only need half. A template representing only half of the blade profile will allow you to use it for each edge, ensuring perfect symmetry. Include the tang on your profile, not just the blade.
If you’re careful, your half template can be held on your blade stock aligned on a scribed center line and scribed on each side. If you’re less careful, oversize your blade stock and template so you can drill holes for alignment pins in the end of each that is outside the final profile. Using these holes to align the half template for marking each edge is the most precise way to lay out a symmetrical profile. If the stock is oversized, you’ll grind off the alignment holes when grinding the profile.
Planning Plunge Lines
Once you’ve accurately laid the profile out on the blade stock, take the time to scribe in the planned plunge lines on the blade flats and the edge. Sweeping, curved plunges are more visually appealing and careful layout will help ensure that your vision becomes reality. These lines are not decorative. They are the stops, targets if you will, that prevent the grind from slowly creeping toward the ricasso with each grinding pass.
Grinding the Plunges. Gradual, sweeping plunges are much more appealing to the eye than straight ones. Draw them in and grind to the drawing. This is more easily done on a wheel than with a flat platen but can be accomplished either way.
When it comes to grinding these sweeping plunges, hollow grinding on a wheel is easier than flat grinding on a platen—it’s easier to grind a curve with a curve—but by all means use a flat platen if that’s what you have. If you’re already grinding on a wheel, a 1-inch-wide wheel with a 1-inch belt will be an easier path to success than the standard 2-inch wheel and belt.
Sweeping plunges also will result in a thicker edge toward the ricasso. This is fine—you shouldn’t try to sharpen this part as doing so most likely will ruin all your careful design work. Will the unsharpened part of the edge impair the stabbing function? Perhaps, but only a little. Though it pains a serious knife person to admit it, most handmade modern daggers are for show. In most societies stabbing others is frowned on, and if you’re going to all this effort, choosing to focus on aesthetics is a good bet. However, if your dagger will be deployed in combat, ignore the aesthetics, grind sharper plunges and take the edge all the way to the ricasso.
Dagger Grinding And Stock Removal
Grinding and stock removal are the way to go for daggers. This is admittedly a hot take but in a game where winning is determined by symmetry, forging introduces unnecessary variables and distorts the base stock, making accurate layout more complicated—not impossible, just not as easy. There is little to gain by forging unless the steel itself or the situation requires it, or if you simply like doing it that way. If you want a damascus pattern to taper toward the tip, or if you’re making a dagger for American Bladesmith Society testing, by all means forge. It’s an impressive skill set. If you want to make the best dagger possible with an eye toward efficiency, and thereby your profit margins, grind it. Stock removal is the more predictable path, and predictability is the soul of symmetry. Every forged blade is a stock removal blade before it’s completed; don’t get hung up on this unless you have reason to.
Delicacy Of The Dagger Tip
Forged for Continuity. An intricately patterned damascus dagger by Gregory Verizhnikov shows why sometimes forging is worth it—forging through the tip preserves the pattern’s flow.
Where the mass of the ricasso anchors the entire weapon and provides strength at the critical juncture of guard and tang, the tip, by contrast, demands delicacy. Once your profile is carefully ground to shape and you turn to grinding the bevels, grind the tip first. More specifically, grind it at a steeper angle than you plan for the main bevels, and try not to cross the centerline even at that obtuse degree, except at the very end. After that, leave it alone.
Grind the main bevels like you normally would, paying perhaps more attention than usual to your scribed lines, and try to avoid that last inch toward the tip until everything else is pretty much done. This seems a bit odd at first, but consider that the final inch must maintain its thickness in order to be strong enough to pierce effectively without deformation or fracture. If you do it right, you’ll end up with a bevel at the transition. Some makers polish the transition so it remains crisp, while others blend it smooth while polishing. Either way, it should be deliberate. Neglect this and the point will be too thin.
When To Add Fullers
Lay Out Everything. Scribe curved plunge lines on the flats and edge mark exactly where each bevel begins and ends.
Fullers, if they are to be included, should be cut early while the blank still has parallel flats. Attempting them later invites misalignment, or at the least inserts a potentially unnecessary level of difficulty. Better machinists than this writer/dagger enthusiast will likely have little difficulty either way, but life has enough complications of its own without inviting them into play.
Dagger Balance
Balance matters as much as steel. A well-made dagger should balance at or just ahead of the guard, a neutral point where the hand feels neither burdened nor abandoned. This can be tested with nothing more elaborate than a rod beneath the mostly assembled knife, shifting it until it rests level. It’s really just as easy to adjust weight distribution by feel, removing or adding weight to the component parts until it feels right. Don’t forget to consider the added weight of your epoxy. When balance is right, the blade becomes an extension of the wrist, alive and responsive.
Tang & Spacers
How Not to Do It. This dagger blade poorly ground by the author clearly demonstrates that the easy way out usually leads back in. Off-center bevels and an off-center tip are predictable results of poor initial layout.
Even the tang deserves forethought. When profiling the blade blank, leaving the tang longer than necessary provides room for correction and fitting, and a threaded end can serve as both a work-holding aid during construction and a permanent anchor if a pommel or nut will close the assembly.
Spacers, fitted between guard and handle and again between handle and pommel, make alignment easier and allow pins to register each component precisely during glue-up. They’re also relatively easy targets for weight adjustment when working on overall balance. These details are seldom glamorous but are what let the final assembly come together without struggle.
Embellishments
What results from this attention is not decoration but readiness. The embellishments will come later… the fluted handles and twisted wires and all the flourishes that mark the master’s hand. But none of that matters if the design is poor, the execution haphazard, the details unconsidered.
A Switchblade Comb Is A Fun Take On The Knife Design. Unlike The Knife, The Switchblade Comb Can Be Taken On A Plane.
The switchblade looks cool. The blade firing out at speed and satisfyingly clicking into place is one of the great joys of the knife world. However, many legal codes of countries around the world don’t look fondly on the fast-moving blade. But that cool factor has endured and can be seen in switchblade combs. And they have the added benefit of being far, far cheaper than even the lowest-quality stiletto.
Switchblade combs?
Yes. It’s a comb that deploys like a switchblade. Maybe you’re looking for a comb with a burst of excitement, or a comb that isn’t made of cheap, flimsy plastic. Or maybe you’re a Jet or a Shark that needs to look good for their next rumble.
No matter what the reason, the switchblade comb is a fun little tool to have. This knife… I mean comb shows what the switchblade comb is all about.
Etrading Italian-Style Automatic Comb
This comb is a perfect example of what a switchblade comb can be. The handle is made from pearl-toned polymer, and the blade is made from 440 stainless steel that’s built to last. At nine inches in length, with a five-inch handle, the comb sits well in the hand and feels good to use.
The stainless bolsters help take the look to the next level, and it all comes together thanks to the push-button deployment that sends the comb out in a blink. Additionally, there is a trigger lock-out that prevents the comb from opening in your pocket or bag.
This is a fun piece that you can show off to friends and keep your hair well-coiffed too.
MSRP: $10.50
Tops Knives Tac-Rake
For something a bit more robust there is the Tac-Rake from TOPS Knives. This beard comb is of the fixed-blade variety (yes, not a switchblade but it’s so good) that’s made from black traction-coated steel meted to a tan canvas micarta handle.
It’s only 5.88 inches in total length so it’s probably not the best comb for a full head of hair, but it is specially made for a beard and will keep your facial hair looking clean and sharp. The fact that you’ll feel like a champ while using it is just an added bonus.
The included leather sheath makes traveling with the comb easy and stress-free.
MSRP: $105
Microtech UTX-85
This OTF comb is the Cadillac of combs. The blade is stainless, and the handle is anodized aluminum. It’s luxurious to use, and the dual-action mechanism deploys and retracts the knife in the blink of an eye.
The teeth are nice and fine so it’ll brush your hair and your beard with ease. Adding to the tactical nature of the comb, the glass breaker at the butt of the piece is a handy tool to have on your person. And, since this isn’t a proper sharpened knife, you can take this with you wherever you go from a baseball game to a restaurant and even on a plane.
MSRP: $340
BeardAir Tactical Beard Comb
For a tactical combing experience, there is this sleek comb from BeardAir. With a blade made from 17-4PH steel, and a handle made from aviation aluminum. It’s light and strong, and the automatic open/close function deploys the comb with speed and style.
Unlike the other combs on this list, the Tactical Beard Comb comes in all sorts of different colors so you can find the one that fits your aesthetic the best whether it’s a more traditional black knife with red accents or something more wild like the olive green and pink one above.
These tactical fixed blade knives are set to conquer the most extreme tasks.
When the Gulf War took off in Iraq in the early 1990s, the knife industry took off, too, and a steady stream of tactical fixed blades has surfed the wave ever since.
Needless to say, there are military fixed blades aplenty in the cutlery industry with no single design or manufacturer having a chokehold on today’s market. This has given knife users an abundance of choices, from pure fighters to utility users and everything in between.
A diverse quartet of the genre includes the Condor Fighter Knife, Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade, KA-BAR/John Ek Commando Short Clip and Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter. To determine their strengths and weaknesses, the first order of business was a common test for penetration.
Testing
I set up a heavy-duty corrugated-board box with a 1-inch Styrofoam™ liner made for shipping frozen foods. I tested each knife by thrusting the blade into the side of the box forcefully, and then pushing it through from a standstill with the tip resting on the box. All the knives penetrated the thick, layered material with ease—not surprising considering they have either clip-point or tanto blade patterns, both adept at stabbing. There was very little differential from one model to the next. What follows is a look at each knife and how it performed other chores.
Condor Tool & Knife Fighter Knife
The author took the Condor to task batonning a length of seasoned hardwood with good effect. According to him, “This is one versatile knife that even a bushcrafter would love.”
Condor Tool & Knife specializes in bang-for-the-buck blades and the Fighter Knife is no exception. Indeed, it is the most affordable of the test group. From the side the knife appears to be pudgy but it is actually quite nimble. The clip-point blade has jimping on the rear of the spine for enhanced purchase on detail cuts.
The tan handle is hidden tang in construction with a fine stippled surface texture, an ample palm swell in the middle and a lanyard loop. The exposed steel at the butt can be used for hammering. The sheath is MOLLE compatible, injection molded and features a black leather drop loop.
The knife easily switches from combat to field chores—not surprising as the company specializes in both. The wider blade is similar to that of many field knives, as is its deep grind. Slicing 3/8-inch rappelling rope and taking curls for firestarter were a breeze. I set the blade across the end of a 15-inch piece of tough seasoned hardwood, 25/8 inches across, and drove it clean through. This is a rugged knife. The sheath is relatively unobtrusive and rides about 2 inches above the beltline.
Condor Fighter Knife Specs Blade length: 4.91” Blade material: 1075 carbon steel Blade grind: Flat w/secondary bevel Blade finish: Black Cerakote® Handle length: 4.83” Handle material: Tan polypropylene Weight: 8.82 ozs. Overall length: 9.74” Sheath: Tan polypropylene/leather belt strap Country of origin: El Salvador MSRP: $100
KA-BAR John Ek Commando Short Clip
The Commando Short Clip tackled a 2.75-inch-diameter chub of summer sausage admirably. The blade is 5.125 inches of 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel, a time-proven KA-BAR favorite.
The John Ek Commando Short Clip is one in a series of military-type models KA-BAR Knives offers by the cutlery legend. This one is all black and a timeless, no-nonsense John Ek design. The blade is complemented by a 4.125-inch “stick” handle with scales affixed by big, fat screws, an Ek hallmark. The blade clip breaks with a slight harpoon kick, which I’m not sure Ek ever used, though it works wickedly, and there’s a short guard below the blade. The symmetrical handle has a lanyard hole at the butt. All of this is delivered with a modern, MOLLE-compatible sheath.
KA-BAR has done an admirable job picking up the John Ek banner and blending the old with the new. The Commando Short Clip’s narrow blade—1.31 inches wide—proved proficient at slicing. I tested it on paracord, 3/8-inch rappelling rope and a large round of 2.75-inch summer sausage, and it did a masterful job of tackling them all. It is a combat knife at heart and its light weight is not as skillful at tough field chores like hacking wood, but that’s not its department.
The handle is fine for small and medium hands but could be a challenge for those with large ones. The modern sheath is very well done and rides with the butt of the handle just above the waistband. Overall, this modern take on a classic leans toward a combat knife with enough utility to get you by.
KA-BAR/Ek Commando Short Clip Specs Blade length: 5.125” Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel Blade grind: Flat Blade finish: Black powder coat Handle length: 4.125” Handle material: Polymer Weight: 10.4 ozs. Overall length: 9.25” Sheath: Black polymer Celcon/MOLLE compatible Country of origin: USA MSRP: $155
Emerson Knives CQC-7
The CQC-7 Fixed Blade has an appetite for slicing and slashing. The 154CM stainless steel tanto blade was extremely sharp and penetrated both layers of the shipping box with controlled slices.
The Emerson Knives CQC-7 Fixed Blade hasn’t gotten a lot of face time because the overwhelming amount of tactical knife coverage of the company is devoted to folders. It’s the way of the world. The Emerson is the shortest of the review subjects and is also the one that tilts more toward being a pure combat knife—something its designer, martial arts specialist/custom knifemaker/cutlery entrepreneur Ernest Emerson, knows a thing or two about. The tanto blade sports a flat V-grind and a stonewashed finish. The blade has three straight grinds: the main edge, tip grind and a clipped saber grind. An Emerson Wave shape on the rear of the blade spine serves as a thumb ramp. The handle has a nice palm swell, a symmetrical dimpled texture for enhanced purchase and a lanyard hole in the butt.
The blade’s 7/16-inch edge grind was delivered wicked sharp and I took it to task slicing one of my favorites, 3/8-inch rappelling rope. The rope is extremely strong because lives depend on it. In one test I pulled the edge through three consecutive cross sections of rope. The drag on the blade was much less than I normally encounter—a pleasant surprise. It slashed the corrugated board outer layer into the Styrofoam effortlessly, and when I slowed the process down with a little more pressure, it dug through the foam as well. The sheath is a study in minimalism, but that’s what you want when concealment is at a premium.
Emerson CQC-7 Fixed Blade Specs Blade length: 4.125” Blade steel: 154CM stainless Blade grind: V-grind Blade finish: Stonewashed Handle length: 4.625” Handle material: Black G-10 composite Weight: 5.86 ozs. Overall length: 8.75” Sheath: Black Kydex® Country of origin: USA MSRP: $237.95
Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter
The Harsey Fighter’s ample 5.35-inch handle has black G-10 scales with a ribbed pattern machined into the surface. The flare atop the handle offers excellent finger protection and the grip accommodates the biggest of mitts.
A goodly portion of observers seem to believe the Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter is noted knifemaker Bill Harsey’s consummate work and, though he has a load of nice designs in his stable, I wouldn’t argue. It is the largest of the test knives and a blend of modern styling with traditional cues. It is the Pineland Cutlery version manufactured by KA-BAR under the Spartan label. The clip-point blade has a fuller that butts up against the ricasso. The handle surface boasts a diagonal rib pattern for enhanced grip and an ample lanyard hole at the butt. The sheath has a fabric-fastener drop loop and retention strap. There’s also a swing-out lock at the rear guard that secures the knife in the main body of the sheath.
It’s amazing what a couple of inches in length, a couple of ounces in weight, plus an extra inch in the handle add to the versatility of a knife. That’s on average what the Harsey Fighter has over the other knives tested. This is not a knock on the others, just the advantage of having more knife.
For chopping ability I tested the blade on a thick-skinned cantaloupe. I had to chop the melon off center to clear the handle but the blade made its point in one fell swoop. The extra weight allowed me to tackle tougher chores and the added blade length made for excellent slicing and hacking. You can clear a camp with the Harsey Fighter. The comfortably sculpted handle can accommodate the largest of hands and the upper flare offers good finger protection. The sheath is very well made but the guard lock takes some getting used to and is one added step for a quick draw. All in all, the Harsey Fighter earned its mettle in spades.
Spartan Blades Harsey Fighter Specs Blade length: 6.125” Blade material: 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel Blade grind: Flat Blade finish: Black powder coat Handle length: 5.35” Handle material: Black G-10 composite Weight: 11.5 ozs. Overall length: 11.5” Sheath: Black polymer/nylon belt loop/MOLLE compatible Country of origin: USA MSRP: $195
Cut like a Viking with some top factory interpretations of an ancient design.
When knife fans think Vikings and Viking blades, the seax is at or near the top of the list. The seax (pronounced sax) blade shape originated in northern Europe from late Roman to early medieval times and was used widely by the Germanic tribes.
Seax means knife or cutting tool, both of which aptly describe the useful blade shape that is equally at home as a tool or a weapon. Typical uses include but are not limited to food preparation, general cutting, carving and more. Medieval warriors entered battle carrying swords, axes and the seax as a back-up. It was a very well-rounded knife design that played a prominent role in daily life.
Typical seax construction included forged carbon steel blades paired with wood, bone or antler handles. The handle often was adorned with decorative carvings or inlays. In size, the knife ranged from small utility models to swords and everything in between. It also was a symbol of status and identity. Today the seax comes in a wide range of materials, sizes, price ranges and more.
A leading example is the TOPS Knives Storm Vector. Featuring a 12.6-inch blade of 1095 carbon steel and an 18.25-inch overall length, the Storm Vector is the largest seax of the test bunch. It’s an intriguing twist of seax meets machete that results in an interesting cutting tool. Done right, 1095 can hold an edge quite well but is also very easy to sharpen in the field, a major selling point. A Sniper Gray coating protects the blade from stains and corrosion and provides a subdued, tactical look.
The ergonomic handle is black Micarta®. Blue liners give a subtle pop of color to an otherwise dark knife. The handle’s curve, prominent finger grooves and expanded butt all help to make the knife feel as if it were molded to your hand. The Micarta corners are rounded for more comfort.
Make no mistake, this isn’t a lightweight. The blade is a quarter inch at the thickest and the knife tips the scales at a healthy 24 ounces. The side-break Kydex sheath has a button snap/strap closure to secure the knife, and a neat dangler belt loop allows the sheath to swing freely and not bind up on vegetation. Overall sheath quality: excellent.
Designed by TOPS Knives headman Leo Espinoza—inset holding one at BLADE Show West—the Storm Vector handles baton work like, well, a Viking. (image of Espinoza by BLADE® staff)
The Storm Vector especially excels at chopping. It has the weight to support it, as well as superior handle ergonomics. My hand felt very secure throughout testing; never did I feel as if I were losing control of the knife. TOPS has superb handle ergonomics on many of its larger fixed blades. Rounded, contoured Micarta edges make the handle comfortable to hold, even for extended periods.
TOPS excels at making superb outdoor knives and the Storm Vector is testament to this. It offers excellent fit and finish. If you want a heavy-duty chopper you can throw around and not have to worry about durability, the Storm Vector is it.
CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax
The CAS Iberia Legacy Arms Witham Seax feels agile in hand and can easily chop small saplings with ease.
Based on a 10th-century seax design and at 17.25 inches overall, the Legacy Arms Witham Seax from CAS Iberia is pretty impressive size wise. The 12-inch blade offers plenty of edged real estate paired with a simple handle sporting minimal adornment.
The 5160 carbon steel blade is flat ground with a convex edge for razor sharpness. A forward guard at the tang is inlaid with what appears to be copper diamond shapes. The motif carries over to the steel buttcap, which boasts the same adornment. The brushed finish of the guard and buttcap complements the blade’s satin finish, rounding out the knife’s overall appearance nicely.
The wood handle is wrapped with leather for a luxurious vibe. It definitely is comfortable to hold. The double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops. The sheath is pretty basic but is all that’s needed to protect the blade.
The Witham’s double-stitched leather sheath is dyed a light brown and features two horizontal carry belt loops.
The Witham Seax is very well made. The quality of finishing is superb and the cutting edge was reasonably sharp out of the box, though I was able to improve it using a coarse-grit diamond sharpening rod. The 5160 sharpens quickly and easily. The fit of both the guard and buttcap to the tang is excellent.
This is a slender, agile knife. It feels great. It is a bit blade heavy but not so much that it can be employed as a dedicated chopper. While it handles chopping well, I would opt for a design that is more blade heavy and also a more ergonomic handle. That being said, the Witham Seax shines as a general cutting tool. The blade has great bite and the 5160 responds well to steeling or stropping, something you can do easily in the field to prolong a sharp edge. The inlaid edges of the guard are a nice visual touch as well. This is as much a collector piece as it is a user.
Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax
Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle of the Condor Norse Dragon Seax, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath.
The Condor Tool & Knife Norse Dragon Seax features a broken back seax blade design with an angled tip reminiscent of today’s reverse tanto pattern. The 7-inch blade is 1095 and features a two-tone finish—the bevels are satin finished and the flats sport the natural darkened finish a blade exhibits emerging from heat treatment.
The simple handle design is durable hickory with a single brass spacer where the handle meets the tang, accenting the handsome overall look. Decorative laser etching adorns both sides of the handle, with the same motif carried onto both sides of the classy, well-made leather sheath. At 11.7 inches overall, the Condor entry can tackle a wide variety of chores both indoor and out.
The Norse Dragon Seax does well on a variety of media thanks to its Scandi-like grind and easy-to-sharpen 1095 carbon steel.
The Norse Dragon Seax has great blade geometry, enabling it to sail through various materials with ease. The edge out of the box wasn’t quite keen enough but I was able to fine tune it with my arsenal of sharpening equipment very quickly. Once I got the edge to my liking, the Norse Dragon tackled cutting chores with aplomb. The hickory handle is comfortable, though possibly could be a bit thicker to make it easier to grip for folks with larger hands.
This knife is not a chopper. It lacks the mass and blade length as well as handle ergonomics for the activity. However, for a tool that slices and dices, this is it. As long as you limit it to cutting only, you should have no issues. In fact, it is a highly capable cutter that would find a good home in any fixed blade fan’s collection.
Emerson Knives Seax
Thanks to a conventional double “V” grind, whittling is no problem with the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade. The Wave design at the end of the ramp helps identify the knife as an Emerson.
Emerson Knives, Inc., has folding and fixed-blade versions of the seax, the latter which is the entry for this review. It is more toward the tactical side, as most of Emerson’s knife line is. Ten inches overall, it sports the company’s superb signature grip ergonomics.
The handle curves encourage firm, non-slip purchase and the chamfer of the G-10 scales checks the comfort box. The handle surface is textured and sports a series of well-placed golf-ball-like dimples that further enhance purchase.
The spine thumb ramp terminates in another Emerson signature design, the Wave. Normally used on the company’s folders to assist in opening the blade, the thumb ramp/Wave allows you not only to lock in your grip but also to exert downward pressure to make cuts. One look and it’s an Emerson design for sure, so the thumb ramp/Wave serves as a visual identifier as well.
The 4.8-inch blade boasts a conventional double “V” grind, though the chisel cutting edge bevel is single sided only. The 154CM stainless steel holds an edge very well and is fairly easy to sharpen. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment. The sheath is basic but a quality make and functions well.
To help enhance purchase, the handle surface of the Emerson Seax Fixed Blade is textured with well-placed golf-ball-like dimples. The fold-over, taco-style Kydex sheath is drilled to accept a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok or similar belt attachment.
Though the knife has a tactical design and feel, don’t let that discourage you from using it in outdoor or general settings. First and foremost, it is a great all-around cutting tool. The straight edge easily cuts cardboard, hose, plastic sheeting and foam, and more. It also handles whittling well, with the chisel-ground edge biting into wood aggressively and deeply.
One of the things I have always loved about Emerson knives is the company’s expert application of handle ergonomics. I’ve yet to use an Emerson handle I don’t like. In addition to enhancing purchase, the handle dimples help displace moisture, providing an excellent grip even with wet hands. Emerson builds knives meant for hard use, so don’t fear putting the knife through its paces. It is built for the long haul and won’t let you down.
![Best Seax Knives [Tested]](https://blademag.com/wp-content/uploads/Seax-3-768x512.jpg "Best Seax Knives [Tested]")
